chrysler voyager fuel pump problems

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Chrysler Voyager won’t start – causes and how to fix it

Chrysler Voyager is a reliable road companion, but its a machine with hundreds of interconnected parts, and like any other machine it sometimes fail to deliver normal operation. In this article we go through most common causes of Voyager breakdown and how you can fix the problem.

The most common causes that hinders normal starting operation of your Chrysler Voyager are dead 12v battery, corrosion on battery terminals, and dead key fob battery. However, bad alternator, clogged fuel filter, broken starter, blown fuse, empty gas tank, immobilizer error, or any fault in the electrical system can also cause your vehicle not to start.

1. Weak Battery

If your Voyager’s engine won’t crank or cranks very slowly, then the most likely culprit is weak or dead 12v battery. Investigating more closely and doing a battery voltage test will clarify whether the starting problem is due to the battery. A test can be done to measure the voltage between the battery poles, check the acid level and assess the condition of the starter battery.

If a new car battery has been installed, the battery may not have yet reached its full capacity. There is nothing to worry about. A new battery only develops its full capacity over time.

Test 12v battery

The voltage of the battery on your Chrysler Voyager can be measured precisely with a multimeter. Before the test, the multimeter is set to the voltage range of the battery and connected to its plus and minus poles. Successful testing of the car battery, i.e. checking the voltage, usually results in values ​​of approx. 12 to 13 volts. Values ​​above 14 or below 11.5 volts require an expert assessment of the condition of the car battery. Because the battery may have a defect with these measured values ​​and must be replaced.

Jump start Chrysler Voyager

If dead battery is the reason for the breakdown of your Voyager, you can easily jump start it using jumper cables and a healthy battery from another vehicle, or using a battery booster if available.

First connect red cable to the positive terminal of your Voyager’s dead battery, then to the positive terminal of donor battery. Next connect black cable to the negative terminal of donor battery, then to the bare metal in the engine bay of your Voyager. Start the donor vehicle and then your Voyager. Remove the cables in reverse order.

2. Corrosion on battery

Corrosion on the contacts of your car battery leads to loss of contact and reduced current flow, which means that your engine can no longer start properly.

To know if your Voyager’s starting problems are from dirty battery contacts, you need to investigate them. If you lift the rubber covers over the two battery terminals, you can check the terminals for corrosion. If you discover white deposits or silvery-green deposits, but no further cracks or damage, you do not have to replace the battery, just clean it.

Clean battery corrosion

To clean the battery on your Chrysler Voyager, you have to remove the pole cables first, which requires no special knowledge, just a little concentration, as the order is very important. First remove the black cable from the negative pole. If the pole clamp is very tight, you can open it with pliers. We advise against using metal pliers, but if you use them, you must make sure that you do not touch any other parts of the body. Next you can unplug the red positive pole cable. Once the battery has been removed from the circuit, you can start cleaning the corroded battery. After cleaning, reconnect the terminals.

3. Weak key fob battery

If your Voyager has push start/stop button, then its possible that your vehicle may not start due to weak key fob battery. Don’t worry, you can still start your vehicle – the battery is only used to send the signal for locking/unlocking. If the key fob battery is empty, the door no longer locks or unlocks at the push of a button. The doors must then be opened manually. The immobilizer is controlled by a passive transponder. Passive means, among other things, that the transponder in the key does not need its own power source.

How to start Chrysler Voyager with dead key fob battery

If you have a model of Voyager which only has a key fob with start/stop button and no place to insert a key, then try placing your key fob as close to the start/stop button as you can and then start the vehicle. If it doesn’t work, then look in your vehicle’s operational manual for exact location of key fob placement, as it may vary depending on model.

Tip: You can try starting your Voyager with its second key. It will also rule out any other problem with the first key, for example, water damage.

4. Broken starter motor

A starter is a motor for starting the engine of your Voyager. The average life of a starter motor is about 100,000 to 150,000 miles, and the life will be shortened if the engine is started more frequently. In any case, since the starter motor also has a limited life, it will break down after using the car for a long time, and if the starter motor breaks down, the engine will not start.

Symptom: When you turn the key to start the engine of your Voyager, you will hear a clicking sound, which is the sound of a bad starter motor. And if the starter motor does not work with a healthy battery, suspect a malfunction of the starter.

If the starter fails, it usually needs to be replaced with a new one.

Temporary fix for starter

If the engine does not start due to the starter, the engine may start if you turn the key while hitting the starter motor with something like a stick or metal tool. This workaround is effective when the parts inside the starter are stuck together or the gears are slightly out of alignment.

However, it is possible that the starter is nearing the end of its life, so it is recommended that you have it inspected at a dealer or maintenance shop.

5. Defective alternator

An alternator is a generator that produces electricity. If your Voyager’s alternator fails, it will not be able to produce electricity and the battery will not be able to charge. Therefore, even if you think that the cause of the engine not starting is a battery failure and replace the battery, the battery will soon run out and the engine will not start.

Alternators rarely break down. In particular, modern cars have improved performance, so it is said that they will last 200,000 to 300,000 miles. Still, it can break down depending on how you use it, and in the case of a used car, the alternator may be quite old. Don’t let your guard down.

If the alternator breaks down, it must be replaced with a new alternator.

6. Clogged fuel filter

The fuel filter of your Voyager does not wear out like a mechanical part, but it gets clogged by dirt and airborne particles and clogs over time. The permeability of the filter drops, and so does the fuel pressure. To a certain extent this doesn’t matter, but if the fuel filter is too dirty, the engine will no longer perform at full capacity and in some instance may not start at all. Cleaning is not possible, you can only change the filter.

7. Fuel pump failure

If your Voyager’s fuel pump fails, then the engine won’t start. The pump normally ensures that the necessary amount of fuel is passed from the tank to the injection system of the engine with sufficient pressure.

Before your fuel pump stops working, it usually becomes noticeable: if your car’s engine breaks down from time to time, the car is difficult to start, the engine jerks a little or the engine performance drops, you should have your pump checked.

Wear or contamination of the pump can be the reason for this. If the pump is leaking, a power contact is broken, a line or a pump lever is broken, the fuel pump is usually also noticeable before failure. You can have a defective fuel pump replaced in your workshop.

8. Blown fuse

In rare cases, a blown fuse could also be the culprit in the breakdown of your Voyager. Check all fuses in the fuse box essential for starting the engine. But, be careful when lending a hand yourself to the fuse box! The box is under power and repairs or tests should always be done in a workshop.

9. Defective spark plugs

Without functioning spark plugs, the engine will not start. The spark plugs themselves are often not affected by a defect. Instead, plug connections on the ignition system come loose. If only one plug is actually loose, you can fix the problem yourself on site. If a spark plug has failed, it must be replaced in the workshop.

10. Rodent damage

Rodent damage can be another reason why your Chrysler Voyager won’t start. The animals crawl under the vehicle and bite through cables and wires. In principle, this can affect all vehicle systems such as the fuel supply, the oil supply or the power supply.

The rodent damage can usually be seen quickly by looking into the engine compartment. The damage caused by the rodent bite can be repaired in the workshop. Be prepared for relatively high costs here.

11. Engine failure

Although very rare, but it can also be the cause of the breakdown of your Voyager. If a vehicle has an engine failure, then nothing works anymore. It is not uncommon for the driver of a vehicle to be responsible for such damage. Typical causes include tearing of the timing belt, incorrect fueling, insufficient oil, hydrolock, overheating of the engine, or continuous driving in an excessive speed range.

Only an experienced mechanic can diagnose engine failure in a workshop.

Use OBD2 scanner for diagnosis

Since Chrysler Voyager is equipped with on-board diagnostics (OBD), a fault diagnosis can provide initial indications of where the malfunction is located.

To begin troubleshooting, you must first connect the diagnostic tool to your Voyager. The OBDII connector is usually located under the dashboard. With the wire connected, you should turn the ignition on. But be careful not to start the engine. Most diagnostic devices then ask for some information about the vehicle. It is important that you enter this 100% correctly, otherwise the result of the search may be falsified. In addition to the vehicle manufacturer and model, you usually also have to type in the engine and vehicle ID number. For exact troubleshooting, always check whether the information is correct.

There are many reasons why your Voyager may not start. When looking for the trigger, you should always start with the most obvious cause, the empty battery.

In any case, it is advisable for laypersons to call a breakdown service or a workshop. In the event of a defect, the latter can directly initiate the repair.

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Fuel Pump Replacement on 95 Voyager Minivan--Difficulty-?

Discussion in 'Voyager' started by Buzzy, Jul 27, 2005 .

Buzzy Guest

hey I just learned that my fuel pump is not long for this world. I want to do the replacement myself to save a buck or two. I have worked with fuel tanks and take all precautions. I have heard that there are aftermarket repair parts, and wonder if they will give the same result as a new whole unit, which is over 260 bucks. Anyone done this-? AND--the back three spark plugs are a little tricky on ths 6-cyl model (3.0 mitsubishi OHC engine)--a guy suggested actually removing a wheel well--any better suggestions or procedures-? Thanks in advance, and MOPAR to ya--Buzzy 1995 Voyager standard wheelbase  

maxpower Guest

Buzzy said: hey I just learned that my fuel pump is not long for this world. I want to do the replacement myself to save a buck or two. I have worked with fuel tanks and take all precautions. I have heard that there are aftermarket repair parts, and wonder if they will give the same result as a new whole unit, which is over 260 bucks. Anyone done this-? AND--the back three spark plugs are a little tricky on ths 6-cyl model (3.0 mitsubishi OHC engine)--a guy suggested actually removing a wheel well--any better suggestions or procedures-? Thanks in advance, and MOPAR to ya--Buzzy 1995 Voyager standard wheelbase Click to expand...

Frank Boettcher Guest

I just finished changing the level sensor unit on my 99. A word of advice if the cap unit is the same. It will seem (at least it did to me) like the flange cap is tight on the tank before it actually is. It will leak if not fully tight. You need a good strap wrench or a spanner wrench to get it tight. Funny thing about that sensor. WHen I went to the dealer to buy the unit, another guy was there getting the same thing. Asked me If I ever got SHell gas off of I-10 around Biloxi. Happens, I go down there a few times a year and I usually buy Shell. He said the Shell distributor down there has gas with an additive that eats up the level sending units. Has anyone heard about gasoline that destroys these sending units? Frank  

David Guest

Frank Boettcher said: I just finished changing the level sensor unit on my 99. A word of advice if the cap unit is the same. It will seem (at least it did to me) like the flange cap is tight on the tank before it actually is. It will leak if not fully tight. You need a good strap wrench or a spanner wrench to get it tight. Funny thing about that sensor. WHen I went to the dealer to buy the unit, another guy was there getting the same thing. Asked me If I ever got SHell gas off of I-10 around Biloxi. Happens, I go down there a few times a year and I usually buy Shell. He said the Shell distributor down there has gas with an additive that eats up the level sending units. Has anyone heard about gasoline that destroys these sending units? Frank Click to expand...

Very interesting. I have replaced the sending units on my 1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager and my 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport. Dave  

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Fuel pump replacement - 91 new yorker, 96 voyager front washer pump replacement., fuel in oil..2000 dodge neon, sohc, in-tank fuel pump. help, '96 voyager fuel pump, difficulty defogging windows, 1995 concorde warm up difficulty.

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Chrysler Voyager Engine Cutting Out While Driving

By Zak , September 26, 2017 in Newbie Forum

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i have a Chrysler Voyager Executive 2.8CRD Auto, 78k mileage.

When driving the engine keeps cutting out regardless weather if engine is cold or hot. it is a intermittent fault. After cutting out its a struggle starting back up but usually eventually it does. sometimes after turning twice and sometimes even more and waiting for a awhile. When it does start up it will then drive fine for a moment and then it will cut out again. 

i have changed the oil filter and it was fine for about a week untill it started doing it again 

Also left the car idling for about hour and didn't cut out so it seems like it only cuts out while actually driving it. 

I have taken it to 3 different garages no one can find the fault and nothing comes up on the diagnostic machines. 

can someone please help asap? I've been also looking for a Chrysler Specialist Garage in London area can't seem to find any. 

does anyone know who can fix it? 

I saw on the VOSA website that they had a recall of voyagers for engine cutting out but I spoke to Chrysler customer service and local fiat dealer and they don't want to know as my vin number is not on their recall list. 

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Hi, when it does cut out, does the lights on the dash come on, do you still have electrical power like outside lights, cuts off slowly losing power or just suddenly no pedal with quick loss of speed?

Any dash lights are on while engine running?

Hi, when it does cut out, does the lights on the dash come on, do you still have electrical power like outside lights, cuts off slowly losing power or just suddenly no pedal with quick loss of speed? Any dash lights are on while engine running?

It cuts out suddenly when driving but doesn't cut out when left it idling for 1 hour, no lights on dash all electrics workkng fine, just no pedal and steering wheel and brake pedal goes very stiff.

Check for the turbo actuator that opens and close properly, dirt in the recirculation pipes, has the car done short trips for a long period of time?

These cars are usually used on school runs, that type of driving is the worse for a diesel. You could try a turbo cleaner but if the carbon built up severely against the pipes, it may not work unless pipes are dismantled and cleaned properly.

Check for the turbo actuator that opens and close properly, dirt in the recirculation pipes, has the car done short trips for a long period of time? These cars are usually used on school runs, that type of driving is the worse for a diesel. You could try a turbo cleaner but if the carbon built up severely against the pipes, it may not work unless pipes are dismantled and cleaned properly.

Thanks so much for respnse, i will try that and let you know.

• 2 weeks later...

Hi I had the same problem.

Changed fuel pressure relief valve at the end of the fuel rail -  still cut out and difficult to start.

Replaced fuel filter housing with uprated design (original can crack and let in air in where the fuel heater plugs in) - still cut out etc.

Renewed  all injectors and glow plugs - problem not solved.

Changed fuel metering solenoid on the fuel pump - problem solved.

Diagnostics are fairly limited, I took my car to a diesel specialist who used the lastest Bosch equipment.

Also pressure tested the the output of the fuel pump, tests indicated all systems working OK.

He did suggest changing the solenoid as a last resort. 

• 3 months later...

Hi I had the same problem.   Changed fuel pressure relief valve at the end of the fuel rail -  still cut out and difficult to start. Replaced fuel filter housing with uprated design (original can crack and let in air in where the fuel heater plugs in) - still cut out etc. Renewed  all injectors and glow plugs - problem not solved. Changed fuel metering solenoid on the fuel pump - problem solved.   Diagnostics are fairly limited, I took my car to a diesel specialist who used the lastest Bosch equipment. Also pressure tested the the output of the fuel pump, tests indicated all systems working OK. He did suggest changing the solenoid as a last resort.  ctc

So what was the outcome? Did you fix the issue? I am going through the same list (i am currently looking at replacing injectors).

• 4 weeks later...

So after 4 months in Garage still not managed to fix the fault. Fuel pressure checked, fuel pump tested, valves tested.

When it cuts out it seems like it ls fuel starved,

Can someone please help me if anyone has managed to fix this or let me know which garage has experienced this problem and fixed it.

Hi I had the same problem.   Changed fuel pressure relief valve at the end of the fuel rail - still cut out and difficult to start. Replaced fuel filter housing with uprated design (original can crack and let in air in where the fuel heater plugs in) - still cut out etc. Renewed all injectors and glow plugs - problem not solved. Changed fuel metering solenoid on the fuel pump - problem solved.   Diagnostics are fairly limited, I took my car to a diesel specialist who used the lastest Bosch equipment. Also pressure tested the the output of the fuel pump, tests indicated all systems working OK. He did suggest changing the solenoid as a last resort. ctc

Is your car running ok now? Can let me know where you got it repaired? And how much did the fuel metering solenoid part cost and labour.

• 1 month later...

Sorry for taking sooo long to reply, I shall have to visit the forum more often.

Yes the fuel metering unit did fix the problem, I fitted it myself, cost £130.

The fuel metering valve is fitted to the fuel pump.

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How To Test The Fuel Pump (1996-2000 2.4L Caravan, Grand Caravan, Voyager, Grand Voyager)

• By: Abraham Torres-Arredondo
• Created: 16 October 2023
• Updated: 20 February 2024
• Articl Id: 1078

Testing the fuel pump isn't difficult at all on the 2.4L engine in your minivan. In this tutorial, I'll explain how using a fuel pressure test gauge.

With your test results you'll easily find out if the fuel pump is bad or not.

I'll also show you how to use starting fluid to figure out if your mini-van's engine no-start problem is due to a lack of fuel.

Contents of this tutorial:

• Symptoms Of A Bad Fuel Pump .
• Where To Buy A Fuel Pressure Gauge .
• Fuel Pressure Specifications .
• Fuel Pressure Test With A Gauge .
• Using Starting Fluid To Check For A Lack Of Fuel .

APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles:

• 2.4L Chrysler Voyager: 2000.
• 2.4L Dodge Caravan: 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000.
• 2.4L Dodge Grand Caravan: 1996, 1997.
• 2.4L Plymouth Voyager: 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000.
• 2.4L Plymouth Grand Voyager: 1996, 1997.

CAUTION: Gasoline and starting fluid are extremely flammable. Be careful and take all necessary safety precautions. Make sure to perform all tests with a cooled down engine, work in a well-ventilated area, and stay away from open flames or sparks.

Symptoms Of A Bad Fuel Pump

The fuel pump in your minivan is going to fail in one of two ways. Here are the specifics:

• Complete failure: This is the most common type of failure and will cause the engine to not start.
• Slow failure: In this type of failure, the engine starts and runs but runs bad, especially under load.

To be a bit more specific, here are some of the symptoms you'll see from a complete fuel pump failure:

• The engine cranks but doesn't start.
• No fuel pressure is detected.
• No noise from the fuel pump.

These are some of the symptoms of a slow fuel pump failure:

• Lack of power when accelerating the engine under load.
• Unexplained loss of power.
• Bad gas mileage.
• The engine suddenly stalls.

Whether the fuel pump in your mini-van has suffered a complete failure or is just starting to fail, a fuel pump pressure test will help you identify the problem. Not only that, but this simple test will speed up your fuel pump diagnostic, meaning you'll spend less time (and less frustration) solving the issue and be able to replace the right part.

Where to Buy a Fuel Pressure Gauge

You'll need a fuel pressure test gauge kit to check the fuel pump pressure. The good news is that you can buy them at almost any auto parts store and online (and they don't cost an arm a leg).

The following fuel pressure test kits are very good deals and will connect to the vehicles included in this tutorial:

All of the fuel pressure test kits above have the adapter that'll connect to the fuel pressure test port of your mini-van.

Fuel Pressure Specifications

• KOEO = Key On Engine Off.
• KOER = Key On Engine Running.

Fuel Pressure Test With A Gauge

The thing that makes testing the fuel pump easy on your 2.4L equipped minivan is that the fuel injector rail comes equipped with a test port. This test port is known as a Schrader valve (see photo above).

It's to this Schrader valve that we're gonna connect a fuel pressure test gauge and check the fuel pump's pressure.

If the fuel pump is functioning correctly, you should obtain a fuel pressure reading that matches the specifications listed here: Fuel Pressure Specifications .

OK, let's get started:

Disconnect the ignition coil from its electrical connector . NOTE: This step only applies if the engine starts and runs.

Remove the dust cap from the Schrader valve on the fuel injector rail.

Place a towel under the area of the Schrader valve .

Connect the fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader valve . Use a towel to dry any fuel that may have been released during the gauge connection process.

When you're ready, have your assistant crank the engine while you observe the pressure gauge.

The gauge should display the specified fuel pressure .

Let's analyze your test result:

CASE 1: The fuel pump pressure is within specification . This tells you the fuel pump is in good working condition and supplying fuel to the injectors.

If the engine doesn't start, then this test result rules out the fuel pump as the source of the engine's 'cranks but does not start' issue.

CASE 2: The fuel pump pressure is NOT within specification . This result tells you that the fuel pump is not functioning. Since the fuel pump isn't working, you can now conclude that it's behind the 'cranks but does not start'.

Using Starting Fluid To Check For A Lack Of Fuel

The starting fluid test has been one of my go-to methods for testing an engine no-start problem since the early days of my auto repair career.

This test consists of spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and then having a helper crank the engine. If the engine starts and runs for a few seconds, you can bet it's not getting fuel from the pump. If it doesn't start (with the starting fluid), then there's another issue at play.

IMPORTANT: This test is accurate only when all four spark plug wires are delivering spark to their spark plugs, so test them for spark with a spark tester before you begin.

OK, here are the test steps:

Remove the intake air duct from the throttle body . You don't have to remove it completely as you'll need to reconnect it in one of the following steps.

Manually open the throttle plate and spray starting fluid into the throttle body bore .

Quickly reconnect the air duct to the throttle body (no need to tighten the hose clamp). NOTE: Reconnecting the intake air duct is a very important safety precaution in case of backfire through the intake manifold.

Crank the engine once the intake air duct is back on the throttle body.

You'll get one of two results: 1.) The engine will briefly start, run and then shut off after a few seconds. 2.) The engine cranks but doesn't start at all.

Alright, let's figure out what it all means:

CASE 1: The engine started and ran for a few seconds . This confirms that the issue of your vehicle cranking but not starting is due to a lack of fuel.

I suggest your next step should be testing the fuel pump pressure with a pressure gauge. For this test, go to: Fuel Pressure Test With A Gauge .

CASE 2: The engine did NOT start, not even briefly . This indicates that a lack of fuel is not the reason why the engine won't start.

If this info saved the day, buy me a beer!

• How To Test Engine Compression (1992-1995 1.5L Honda Civic)
• How To Test The Throttle Position Sensor (1992-1995 1.5L Honda Civic)
• How To Test The MAP Sensor (1992-1995 1.5L Honda Civic)
• Starter Motor Wiring Diagram (1992 1.5L Honda Civic)
• How To Test The Starter Motor (1992-1995 1.5L Honda Civic)

Applies To:

Chrysler Vehicles:

• 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003

Dodge Vehicles:

• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007

Plymouth Vehicles:

• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000

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fuel gauge inaccurate

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I have a 2006 Grand Caravan that has a problem with fuel gauge or sender. The gauge reads 1/4 full, but the tank is actually empty. My question is how do I determine if the sender or the gauge is the problem?  

You could try a cluster self test. Hold the trip button in on the cluster then turn the ign switch to on/run. When SOF comes up on the odometer let go of the button. The gauges should cycle through 4 readings. The fuel gauge should read: FUEL GAUGE 1 EMPTY 2 1/4 FILLED 3 1/2 FILLED 4 FULL If it's off the next step is to change the cluster. I have read of some having success turning the needle on the shaft. They usually have to go back and forth several times.  

This unfortunately is a very common problem with the earlier Gen 4 caravans. The fix is usually to change the fuel pump because that's where the fuel sending unit is and that's the part that fails. Since it is either expensive or a lot of work, most of us just learn where the fuel level is by mileage and plan accordingly.  

This is a minor problem, many, many fuel gages are inaccurate and it is foolish to depend on them. Zero your odometer every time you fill the tank and figure on ~400 miles to go.  

it all depends on your set up. if i drive 400 on a tank, ill be walking the last 50 miles. very little to no highway driving though. on my van, full is full. when the gauge reads empty, you probably have around 1/2 of a tank left. spent $400 on a new fuel pump, filter, and fuel system clean and still have the same issue. gotta love it.  

We had a similar problem on our Town & Country, but it has gone away after fixing an issue with one of the Fan Control Relay signal lines. Why this resolved the fuel gauge problem we were having, I can't say - but it hasn't reoccurred since the wiring repair to the relay. More information here: http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/sh...ventually-starts-fuel-gauge-or-pickup-problem  

I had a bad fuel sender. Ran out of gas once so I decided to replace the pump. I did the job myself, but it was tough. Worst part was removing the pump from the tank with the tank lowered from the car, but not entirely removed. Finally got the clamp ring loosened and although I figured the tank was nearly empty, I still ended up laying in a pool of gasoline on the floor of the garage. One spark and I would have been roasted. Anyway, I managed to finish the job, and everything works great now. The one lesson I learned is that I will never tackle that job again.  

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First refuelling for Russia’s Akademik Lomonosov floating NPP

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The FNPP includes two KLT-40S reactor units. In such reactors, nuclear fuel is not replaced in the same way as in standard NPPs – partial replacement of fuel once every 12-18 months. Instead, once every few years the entire reactor core is replaced with and a full load of fresh fuel.

The KLT-40S reactor cores have a number of advantages compared with standard NPPs. For the first time, a cassette core was used, which made it possible to increase the fuel cycle to 3-3.5 years before refuelling, and also reduce by one and a half times the fuel component in the cost of the electricity produced. The operating experience of the FNPP provided the basis for the design of the new series of nuclear icebreaker reactors (series 22220). Currently, three such icebreakers have been launched.

The Akademik Lomonosov was connected to the power grid in December 2019, and put into commercial operation in May 2020.

Electricity generation from the FNPP at the end of 2023 amounted to 194 GWh. The population of Pevek is just over 4,000 people. However, the plant can potentially provide electricity to a city with a population of up to 100,000. The FNPP solved two problems. Firstly, it replaced the retiring capacities of the Bilibino Nuclear Power Plant, which has been operating since 1974, as well as the Chaunskaya Thermal Power Plant, which is more than 70 years old. It also supplies power to the main mining enterprises located in western Chukotka. In September, a 490 km 110 kilovolt power transmission line was put into operation connecting Pevek and Bilibino.

Image courtesy of TVEL

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