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Women Who Travel Podcast: Using 'The Odyssey' as an Island Hopping Guidebook

By CNT Editors

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In her upcoming book Enchanted Islands: Travels Through Myth and Magic, Love & Loss , author Laura Coffey charts a real-life journey she took inspired by one of the most epic travel stories ever told: The Odyssey . Lale catches up with Coffey to find out how the famous poem informed where she went, the unforgettable meals she ate, and the cast of characters she met along the way.

Lale Arikoglu: Hi there. I'm Lale Arikoglu. This is the third installment of our Slow Travel stories. I'm with writer, Laura Coffey, and on today's Women Who Travel, we're sailing to islands that resemble the fictional locations in the adventures of the Odyssey.

Laura Coffey: The book is about following parts of Odysseus' journey and finding these little mystical Mediterranean islands that various different scholars through time have said were the inspiration for the fantastical lands of the Odyssey. And there's lots of different theories about which islands around the Mediterranean could've corresponded to which lands in the Odyssey, and they're all based basically on kind of whimsy or things like a particular cave or the arrangement of the stars on a specific island.

LA: I grew up learning about the Greek myths. I feel like lots of children do. Um, I had a children's book about them that really captivated my imagination. Um, I think, you know, the Odyssey obviously is one of the most famous. A- actually, when I try to think of the story, I can't really remember it. What was the story, beyond it being an epic trip?

LC: It's basically this guy, Odysseus, who I think in modern terms we'd call a narcissistic polyamorous guy who's a bit of a dick.

LA: [laughs]

LC: And he has just finished fighting in the Trojan War and he was the guy who came up with the idea of the Trojan Horse that helped them win the war. So he's really clever, he's quite sneaky, he's very wily, but he's also, he's quite arrogant, he's pissed off the gods and they are preventing him from getting home to his island of Ithaca that's his home island. And he's basically doing island hopping, except he doesn't get to choose the routes and it's been going on for 10 years [00:02:00] when we meet him in the story.

LA: It was a challenge to trace Odysseus' journey. Where, for instance, is the island of the Lotus Eaters? Or Calypso's island and the island of Helios?

LC: There's all of these crazy bonkers theories surrounding the geography of the Odyssey. So scholars across time have been thinking about which islands across the Med could have been the land of the Sun God. Which island could have been Calypso's island where Odysseus was imprisoned for seven years basically as a- her sex slave on this island. Different scholars had their different theories, for example, Strabo, who's one of the ancient Greek scholars that came after Homer, he thought Sicily was the island of the, uh, Sun God. And that makes sense when we look at kind of modern day Sicily it's got, like, 2,000 hours of sunshine a year or something. So of [00:03:00] course that could be the island of the Sun God.

LA: You know, it's funny, in my head I always think of the Odyssey as really centered around Greece, but it's not, because you're talking about Sicily and places like that.

LC: Yeah, I think the ancient Greek world i- doesn't map to modern day Greece. And a lot of people think about the Odyssey in Greek myths as happening only in modern day Greek islands. But of course, the world at that time was- was different, was far larger than that. Various different theories have parts of the Odyssey happening in- on the North African coast, for example. So it's a, you know, it's finding these little known islands and discovering these places. And then you've got people like Samuel Butler. He was a 19th century satirical Victorian. And he was convinced that Homer had been misgendered, actually. He thought that Homer was a woman and not a man.

And his thesis was that Marettimo, which is one of these tiny islands [00:04:00] off the Sicilian coast, was in fact Ithaca, rather than the island that's called Ithaca in modern day Greece. So these were the kind of theories I was following and the idea of mapping this is also really interesting, of trying to find these imaginative fantastical places in the real world. And what was interesting to me was the- the gaps between the maps, I suppose, which was kind of thinking, well, you've got all of these different competing theories, then there's no right answer to it.

Harrison Pierce

María Casbas

CNT Editors

LA: Laura's book is Enchanted Islands - Travels through Myth and Magic, Love and Loss. It combines memoir, travel and nature writing. And as with the best travel origin stories, this one began randomly one afternoon under the gray English skies.

LC: I picked up the Odyssey for that most ancient of reasons, to impress a boy. Uh, spoiler alert, he wasn't that impressed. We did end up breaking [00:05:00] up.

LA: Um, I've got to ask. Who- who is the boy?

LC: Th- this might be a do-over one line.

LC: The boy- the boy in question was a guy who I was dating, uh, and he was very clever, had, uh, actually, let's just not get into that. Is that all right?

LA: Oh, that's absolutely fine. I was just, you know, going to crack a joke about men always thinking that they're better read than other people, but I'll-

LA: ... we'll leave it there.

LC: I'm really grateful for Woodstock Bookshop, which is an independent bookshop, uh, because I saw it glittering on the table there. And I picked it up and then I put it back down because I saw, oh, it looks quite heavy. It looks- it looks difficult. And it was only when the bookseller said, "This is a really brilliant translation, you really have to read it." And that's why I picked it up and put it in my bag. Little knowing that this translation of this very old dusty myth would change my life.

I sort of fell in love with the poem and more [00:06:00] specifically Emily Wilson's translation. Emily Wilson's a- a professor at Penn University and she published a translation a couple of years ago. And what's really interesting is she stripped out all these overwrought insertions of 19th century poets and she stripped it right back to the kind of original musicality, muscularity in the poem. So it's super, super easy to read. It's very modern and fresh. And I kind of became really immersed in what I had thought would be a very intimidating text, but in Wilson's translation it's really accessible.

LA: Do you think there was something special about reading a translation from a woman because, you know, there's so many of the stories that you're citing within the Odyssey are these, these men, these men powerful men. Do you think that having a woman translating it gave the story something that perhaps you might not have connected to in another translation?

LC: I don't know that it's s- specifically that Emily [00:07:00] Wilson is a woman. I think it's more that she spent a lot of time stripping the poem back and she wanted to make the language simple. Um, but I love that it is the first English translation by a woman. And she's now recently translated the Iliad as well.

LA: It sounds like a lot of in- in terms of mapping these myths often it requires looking at the stars or the landscape. Did it get you closer to just those very natural elements?

LC: Yeah, I- I felt very close to nature, partly because these islands were so small. So one of my favorite islands is Favignana, which in the story is- is the island of Wonders and that is, I think it's 30 square kilometers. It's really little. And so that means you can hear and see the sea from practically anywhere on that [00:08:00] island. And you're really conscious that you're on an island. And you're also exposed on islands to the winds which is something I've never really thought about, living in London. I never could tell you which direction the wind was blowing from. I didn't think that was, like, why would that matter?

But on an island it does really matter and it matters when you're swimming because the- there's a connection between, uh, where the wind's blowing from and your likelihood of getting jellyfish stings, which I found out, uh, through quite a lot of, uh, painful experimentation before I learned that rule. Um, and there's also a really interesting thing about winds and, um, how they affect you on islands. And in Korčula there's a very ancient medieval law, supposedly, that when the Jugo wind blows, you cannot be prosecuted for a crime, because the wind is known to send you out of your mind. So that would be a day that you could literally get away with murder.

LA: Oh, that's fascinating. [00:09:00] When I was in- I was in Mykonos a few months ago and I discovered that it's actually f- a famously windy island. And I guess maybe you can, like, kind of do whatever you want there at times, um, because, yeah, the wind, it was quite, it was the most memorable thing about it was just how windy it was. I've never really thought about it that way.

LC: Yeah, and I don't think you do until you get there and I- I mean, there was a part when I was traveling where I got stuck on Korčula because of the winds. They- they wouldn't run the ferries. The seas were too rough. And then you see the kind of the flip side of islands. You see the isolation and feeling trapped and not being able to get off an island because of the natural elements. Myths are in a lot of ways the earliest geography lessons in the world, so when we didn't know how to explain phenomena, we would say that a volcano erupted because it was an angry god or that people were lost at sea because Poseidon hadn't been, uh, given the right [00:10:00] prayers before the ship set sail.

LA: I love that. Coming up, the Odyssey is a 3,000-year old myth, but Laura found that her own experiences sometimes seemed to mirror the ancient collection of travelers tales.

LC: The Odyssey turned into this 3,000-year old ancient guide book in a funny sort of way.

LA: How did you start plotting your trip?

LC: I started plotting my trip by consulting my Sicilian friend, Lara, and she suggested this string of islands, seven volcanic islands just off the coast of Sicily, called the Aeolian Islands. And they are named after the guardian of the wind, Aeolus. The way the Italians say, Aeolian, is they call it the Eolian [00:11:00] Islands. And the- and they sort of say it with a sigh and it sounds like the wind moving through the trees. So in the story Odysseus washes up on this, they call it the floating island in the story. The floating island of the Wind God. And it's a wonderful, uh, experience of island hopping. It's so much more straightforward than Greece. There's one ferry that goes between them. There's seven different islands, so you can pick.

Uh, Lipari is a fabulous place for couples. It's soft and romantic and beautiful. Stromboli was my favorite. You can climb up, uh, one of the world's most active volcanoes and you can see it erupting at night under this amazing dome of constellations and, a- and you see the- the torches of the other hikers and it looks almost like a sort of pilgrimage. It looks like [00:12:00] candles lit along the- the mountainside and you really feel the power of the volcano there. And you can imagine [inaudible 00:12:07] and how, yeah, of course I thought it was a god. Because it's this kind of incredible powerful energy and this sort of incredibly wild island. There's something sort of like a pilgrimage about it. I- it feels significant. It feels like a pilgrimage.

LA: Even at a safe distance to see a volcano, an active volcano, is quite a terrifying thing to behold. I mean, quite an existential experience.

LC: Yeah, I think at the time I had been so, um, preoccupied with the smallness of my concerns and, you know, it's just ending a relationship and you're feeling sad and alone and then suddenly you're confronted by this kind of majestic nature. It feels like a way to kind of get re-enchanted with the beauty of the [00:13:00] world. Because it was about seeking out enchantment. Working out, where are places, what can we do to, like, kind of lift ourselves into that state of awe and there's a whole science of awe.

There's loads of enchantments in the Odyssey. The crew get turned into pigs by this witch. Their wine at dinner gets spiked by Helen of Troy. She spikes it with a special powder to take away the bitter feeling of- of grief. Zeus sends thunderbolts to kill the crew and break the ship. There's tons of enchantments there. And I guess our modern day enchantments are all about the science of awe. So climbing mountains, having experiences different than the day-to-day and reconnecting with the power of the natural world and the beauty that's all around us.

LA: I think you have to be quite intentional about finding those [00:14:00] moments of awe. In the modern world they don't really just come to you. You have to seek them out and it sounds like you were seeking them out.

LC: Yeah. I had to actively seek them out, you're right. I went to spend some time in mainland Sicily and, uh, I visited Marettimo, which is supposed to be Ithaca in the story. So that's supposed to be the island that Odysseus is desperately trying to get home to. He's desperately trying to get back to his beautiful clever wife, Penelope. And she's in Ithaca, she's batting off the attentions of these younger, uh, suitors who think she's a widow and a kind of bit gold digging. So she's batting off her hot boyfriend, her husband's running around trying to get back to her, simultaneously having affairs with various goddesses on various islands. But of course, Penelope, because she's a woman, has to stay faithful. So it's a bit of a double standard there in the story.

LA: I know. I'm like, [00:15:00] god, I want Penelope to just have a bit of fun. [laughs]

LC: Exactly. Um, where it's like a, oh, Favignana, which is the island of Wonders in the story. Odysseus and his exhausted crew have been trying to get back for ages and they land on this island and they spend the day hunting goats. And then they barbecue the goats on the beach and they just chill out for a bit before they get back onto the next adventure. And the next adventure is to seek out the cyclops which is the one eyed giant and he is the son of Poseidon and a sea nymph. And he supposedly lives in one of the Balearic Islands, so I went to Menorca to see if I could find the cyclops there.

So an example in the story of the normal code of guest friendship being violated. Odysseus goes into his cave and [00:16:00] demands a present, because that's their protocol at the time that when strangers turn up, you have to accommodate them. It's the sort of Airbnb without the ratings. Um, and then he demands a present which is again something the ancient Greeks used to give guests. They were supposed to give them the best beds, nice massages, nice warm baths. And the cyclops quite reasonably refuses to give these people who have intruded into his cave, they've come there when he was out gl- grazing his sheep. So he refuses to give them a present and he traps them and he starts snacking on the crew and eating them up.

And Odysseus has to think about how he can use all his wits and all his cunning to get out of the situation. And he sharpens a stick and he plunges it into the cyclops' one eye and then manages to escape. But the cyclops, bloodied and furious, then calls to his daddy who is Poseidon and asks him to make sure that Odysseus never gets [00:17:00] home. So it's a great moment in the story because it's Odysseus in his arrogance who has kind of inflicted this whole situation and now he's given a vengeful god a personal vendetta and that's part of the reason that he can't get home.

LA: As you traveled between these islands, how did your lifestyle intersecting wi- with these stories, you know, as you were tracking and looking for the fantastical in the real life, what was happening to you? Who were you meeting?

LC: I was swimming in the kind of October, November and December seas, getting colder and colder, and, uh, sharper and sharper buzzes of endorphins from that cold water. I found myself swimming with a 70-year-old naked guy called Andrew, Naked Andrew in the book. Uh, who [00:18:00] is a- a very eccentric ex-pat on Menorca. And he used to come to a particular cove, my favorite cove, and we got chatting there. And we would swim almost every day together. He thought I was a massive wimp. He called me an inadequate alpha female because I would-

LC: ... take ages to get into the water. And, um, but I would, "Listen, Andrew, I'm in the water for longer than you, so it kind of nets out in the end."

LC: And in- in Korčula, um, there's this wonderful woman called Leya who is a phyto-aromatherapist, which means that she mixes oils and uses plant elixirs and- and to my mind she was very much a kind of modern day Cersei, a modern day enchantress. And she went swimming with me there. So I tend to find the most interesting people when I'm cold water swimming as well. I ate in Frano's restaurant. And Frano sort of looked like a pirate captain, all dressed in black, with this incredible bandana around his silver [00:19:00] hair and he used to cook me fresh fish over an open fire.

LA: I want to go back to you mentioned going cold water swimming. And that's something that a lot of people seem to be doing these days. We had a writer, Freya Bromley, come on the podcast a few months ago to talk about her wild swimming across the UK.

LC: So I had started cold water swimming, uh, thanks to my friend, Pella, in London, who had dragged me to Hampstead Ponds and made me swim in December and it was a kind of baptism of fire. So I've done a little bit of cold water swimming in London. But it is one of those annoying cliched self-care practices, I think, that everyone's picked up. But they picked it up for a reason, because it really works. I was really worried about my father back home. He was very unwell. He was trying all these different cancer treatments. It was a terminal cancer, um, so he wasn't going to get better. Um, but he was trying all of these different protocols and I was worried about him.

[00:20:00] And I found that the cold water really stilled my mind and brought focus and clarity and took me back into my body. Um, in a similar way to yoga, I've- uh, I'm a yoga teacher. I've- I've been practicing yoga for I think 15 years now, and it's just another tool, another way I think of going back into your own physiology, away from your weary, heavy, hot mind, and reoccupying the body. And, you know, just even that struggle to breathe and trying to kind of calm your physiological reactions in the water.

LA: You were traveling in some of the places in the world that have some of the best food and are famous for their [00:21:00] incredible diets. What did you eat and what role did food play in this, um, in your odyssey?

LC: Food plays an enormous role in my life, generally, not just travel. But yes, I was in the world of culinary delights. I was in Italy, in Sicily, and I was in a place called Castelbueno, which is known for its mushroom pasta and they forage for them with dogs, not pigs, uh, like they do in France. And I got into a massive argument with a restaurateur who refused to believe that I don't like to eat mushrooms and he sort of forced me to eat his mushroom pasta, which was completely delicious and a total revelation. Um, and he ended up sitting next to me at the table and bringing out all of these amazing rare truffles from the kitchen and explaining how to find them in the woods. And their unit costs and the different tastes that they have.

In Menorca I stayed at a little town called Sant Lluís and I ended up cooking for myself a lot there. You go to [00:22:00] a- a shop where you can buy eggs and they roll them in newspaper for you instead of putting them in egg boxes. So it's all very locally grown and delicious in Menorca. In Favignana there's a restaurant called La Bettola where they sort of adopted me and you can get the most delicious spaghetti there. And Lorenzo, who is, uh, the son of the owner, goes out every morning at 4:00 AM to catch calamari.

LA: Coming up, Laura took six months while Odysseus in the poem was wandering for 10 years and he's encountering temperamental gods and goddesses.

LC: In my book, Enchanted Islands, it's all about making this intimidating text very accessible and very non-academic.

LA: [00:23:00] And so you kind of describe these scenes in this myth. They're all scenes that I've kind of, like, have been, like, fragmented for me and I've never realized they're all in the same poem.

LC: It's a very long bloody poem.

LC: So there's loads of different scenes and things that happen.

LA: I mean, I guess it was a famously long journey, so it had to be a long poem.

LC: O- one could even call it an epic poem, perhaps. [laughs]

LA: [laughs] Um, you know, on a journey of that length, one hopes that Odysseus learned a few things. What do you think you learned on your trip?

LC: Yeah, so Odysseus came back in the end. Spoiler alert, he does make it home.

LC: He does make it home to Penelope, uh, and he has been in Emily Wil- Wilson's translation, he's been humbled by these heartbreaking losses. Because of course he comes home and he- all his men have died along the way. So some issues with Odysseus' leadership style, I think. What I learned really was I guess to sort of let go a little bit and- and sort of being in the moment and having [00:24:00] these, like, conversations with Italian restaurateurs about mushrooms. It's about hiking up the volcano that's so beautiful that the next day you want to do it all over again. And I suppose also being a little bit more open to being blown around by the fates and blown around by the winds, so that's what I learned.

LA: How long were you gone in total?

LC: Two weeks turned into six months. And then my dad became very suddenly very, very unwell, so I returned to the UK when he was dying. And it was only really when I returned to the islands after that that I felt more normal again. And so for me there was so much and- and the book talks about it quite a lot, there's so much in travel and the beauty of nature to console us and to help us move through these [00:25:00] really difficult parts of life. There's something in rituals and being able to honor people who have died. Odysseus is often making offerings to the gods. Pouring out libations, making prayers, burning sheep down to the bones as an offering to the gods. And I think there is something in that.

There's a lot of resonance in some of these very old rituals and there's a beautiful part in the poem where Odysseus goes down into the underworld to try to get some guidance from a prophet, but while he's there he meets all his old pals from the Trojan War. And they've all got different, you know, in our language you'd call it PTSD, right? So po- post-traumatic, uh, and yo- and you would be after this horrific war. And so he meets all his old mates and then he meets his mother and he tries to hug her three times. And it's called the failed hug in a lot of translations. And I think Emily says she flew from his arms like shadows or like dreams. And that idea [00:26:00] of a failed hug or trying to kind of reconnect with people that we've loved who have died, I think it's still really resonant today.

LA: Oh, that is a wonderful note to end this trip on. Um, and thank you so much for taking me with you on it. If listeners want to follow along with you on your travels on the internet and buy your book, where can they find you?

LC: So the book is called Enchanted Islands. So it's published in May. It's available for pre-order now from everywhere you buy books.

LA: Fabulous. Okay. Next week, what it's like to cover the US election as a foreign reporter. And how eating late night tacos in the parking lot, freezing in a flimsy tent in Tennessee, are all part of the 24-hour work day. I'm Lala Arikoglu and you can find me on Instagram @lalehannah. Our engineers are Jake Lummus, Nick [00:27:00] Pitman and James Yost. The show is mixed by Amar Lal. Jude Kampfner from Corporation for Independent Media is our producer. Chris Bannon is Condé Nast's head of global audio.

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