land rover safari windows

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• Land Rover Defender 1983 - 2016
• Vehicle Enhancements
• Panoramic Window Kits

Land Rover Defender Panoramic Window Kits

Let the light come flooding into your Defender’s interior - fit parts from our range of panoramic window kits.

All tinted to keep your passengers and all belongings cool, our Defender window kits are supplied to order direct from the manufacturer. They include a heated rear window unit , which will fit 90 and 110 wheelbase models in either hard-top or County Station Wagon spec, and a smart panoramic window kit for the short-wheelbase Defender 90 model, among others.

The tinted glass of these units also keeps your interior belongings hidden from view to passers-by, so your Defender is protected with an extra deterrent against thieves.

Fitting snugly into place, and running all the way from behind the doors to the very back end of your Defender, we’ve supplied many of these kits, and can attest to the smart finish they give to the vehicle. As a standard-size component, these panoramic window kits will fit any Defender from 1983 right through to the recently superceded model. 

Please note, these windows are packaged in an individual wooden crate for extra security, which incurs a surcharge - but we think you’ll agree this is well worth it for your extra peace of mind.

Don’t hesitate to contact us if you have any questions about our Defender window kits. A member of our knowledgeable team will be able to find any answers you need.

18 Products

V012 - Rear Tailgate Door Heated Tinted Glass - Land Rover Defender TD5 & Puma 1998-2017 - by VGS

£118.75 (Exc VAT)

Part Number: V012

BG1205 - Dark Tint Alpine Windows & Seals (Pair) - Land Rover Defender - by BlakGlass

£99.95 (Exc VAT)

Part Number: BG1205

BG1204 - Panoramic Heated Rear Door Glass - for vehicles without High Brake Lamp - Land Rover Defender

£120.00 (Exc VAT)

Part Number: BG1204

BG1203 - Panoramic Heated Rear Door Glass - for vehicles with High Brake Lamp - Land Rover Defender

Part Number: BG1203

BG1202 - Panoramic Glass Side Kit for Land Rover Defender 110 - 4 Piece Kit for 5 Door Defender by BlakGlass

£299.95 (Exc VAT)

Part Number: BG1202

BG1201 - Panoramic Side Glass Kit (4pcs) for Land Rover Defender 90 by BlakGlass

Part Number: BG1201

BG1200 - Panoramic Glass Bonding Kit by BlakGlass (can only be shipped within UK)

£39.99 (Exc VAT)

Part Number: BG1200

PANO-110 - Panoramic Tinted Window Kit - For Land Rover Defender 110 Vehicles - Side Window Kit (MISSING REAR QUARTER GLASS - ONLY ONE SET)

£500.00 (Exc VAT)

Part Number: PANO-110-MISSING-51C.02.04

OP02 - Limo Black Tinted Opening Panoramic Side / Quarter Windows for Defender 110 5DR

£699.00 (Exc VAT)

Part Number: OP02

V007 - Limo Black Tinted 2nd Row Door Glass Set for Land Rover Defender 110

£320.00 (Exc VAT)

Part Number: V007

V021 - Land Rover Defender 90 / 110 Grey Tinted Front Door Glass

£175.00 (Exc VAT)

Part Number: V021

V023 - Land Rover Defender Double Cab Corner Glass Polycarb Set

£165.00 (Exc VAT)

Part Number: V023

VO19 - Land Rover Defender Privacy Alpine Glass Set

£185.00 (Exc VAT)

Part Number: VO19

RF03 - Land Rover Defender large Shooting Roof / Sky Hatch

Part Number: RF03 - Land Rover Defender large Shooting Roof / Sky Hatch

LRC2331 - Panoramic Tinted Window Kit - For Land Rover Defender 110 Van - Side and Rear Window Kit

£899.00 (Exc VAT)

Part Number: LRC2331

LRC3089 - Panoramic Tinted Rear Heated Window - For Land Rover Defender 90 and 110 Vehicles

£275.00 (Exc VAT)

Part Number: LRC3089

PANO-110 - Panoramic Tinted Window Kit - For Land Rover Defender 110 Vehicles - Side and Rear Window Kit

£669.00 (Exc VAT)

Part Number: PANO-110

PANO-90 - Panoramic Tinted Window Kit - For Land Rover Defender 90 Vehicles - Side and Rear Window Kit

£689.00 (Exc VAT)

Part Number: PANO-90

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In this guide, we'll be exploring the power, performance, and speed enhancements that can be achieved through upgrading the intercooler for a Defender TD5. We'll examine the advantages of upgrading your existing setup and the steps you can take to maximise results. Additionally, we'll briefly mention factors such as removal of the EGR valve and the inclusion of Silicone hoses and a Turbo Boost Box for improved performance.

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How Reliable is a Land Rover Defender? Uncovering the Facts and Myths

Land Rover Defender has been a symbol of British automotive engineering for several decades. Known for its ruggedness and versatility, the Defender has garnered a loyal following among off-road enthusiasts and adventure seekers. In recent years, however, questions have been raised about the reliability of this iconic vehicle, with some citing recurring issues and costly repairs.

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The Ineos Grenadier Is a Land Rover Defender Redux

When the old Defender gave up the game, this 4x4 was born.

At one point behind the wheel of the Ineos Grenadier, the vehicle nosed down so far that the horizon appeared through the sunroof. Because it was the Scottish horizon, the Grenadier’s porthole-size sunroof framed some distant Loch like a painting. I wanted to hang it on my wall.

But because the Grenadier was, in that moment, ambling down a fifteen percent grade on snot-slick shale, I didn’t brave more than a glance before my heart jumped back into my throat.

We’ll get back to the countryside, but before we continue, some groundwork: What the heck is an Ineos Grenadier?

Picture in your mind’s eye something like the classic Land Rover Defender 110; it’s the one like a Fifties toaster on stilts, equipped with four doors, knobby tires, and an expansive rear hold. Now stir a bit of modern Mercedes Geländewagen into the mix, then sand the edges off. Add in a few modern flourishes: halo DRLs, Apple CarPlay, and a deeply civilized driving experience.

You’re left with the Ineos Grenadier, a new play on some very old ideas.

Those ideas were shaped by the usual suspects in the boxy off-roader segment: the Toyota Land Cruiser, the Mercedes G-Wagen, and of course, the Land Rover Defender. The Ineos Grenadier borrows heavily from those body-on-frame predecessors and their utilitarian chic, pushing body lines to the edge of its footprint, choosing right angles where modern design demands curves. As the Grenadier sits before you, it’s quite hard to tell what’s new and what’s old.

Ineos itself, as I heard a few of the company’s employees echo, is the biggest company you’ve never heard of. Many subsidiaries fall under the Ineos umbrella, with its 26,000 employees, 194 job sites, and $65 billion in annual revenue. But mainly the company produces petrochemicals.

It just so happens that Ineos’s CEO, Sir Jim Ratcliffe, puts his company’s money where his interests lie, like cycling teams, sailing teams, the rumored purchase of Manchester United Football Club, and the execution of an off-roader that was dreamed up in a pub and loosely defined with a pen and a booze-soaked napkin. (Ineos is privately held, as you may have guessed. That means no public shareholders demanding Jim explain the huge Ineos logo on the back of Lewis Hamilton’s Mercedes.)

So the Grenadier has traveled a long way, both metaphorically and literally, from those lines on that beer-stained napkin. Years of development and honing have led to this moment, when about a dozen near-production Grenadiers aimed up an impossible trail in the Scottish Highlands with a group of journalists and writers at the wheel. If there’s one landing a fledgling automaker must stick when building a vehicle that broadcasts supreme off-road capability, it’s this one.

From the driver’s seat, staring down a mountainside which gallops for miles down to that distant Loch, it’s clear Ineos has nailed the Grenadier’s off-road bona fides. In designing an off-roader from a clean sheet of paper, Ineos was smart not to overthink it. The Grenadier rides on a traditional boxed ladder frame; there’s a two-speed hi-lo transfer case between (optional) locking front and rear differentials; a set of proven 265-section B.F. Goodrich K02 tires writhe up the slick ground (these K02s are optional, but should be mandatory for any buyers); solid beam axles were developed by experts in the heavy-duty tractor segment; simple “steelie” wheels are available in 17- or 18-inch flavors.

Those simple ingredients offer the Grenadier a wealth of talent for navigating the rutted lines of this Scottish two-track, but software tuning has further sharpened that capability. A switchable “off-road” mode disables parking sensors, seatbelt reminders and the engine’s stop/start function,” allowing the driver to focus on the smooth application of torque required for ambling up a challenging off-road line.

An uphill assist function can hold the Grenadier in place, preventing the truck from rolling backward down steep terrain it’s just conquered, while a brilliant downhill assist function allows the driver to remove their feet from the gas and brakes and select a speed to crawl down steep and unsure terrain. The Grenadier uses wheel speed sensors to grab brakes and apply power with split-second precision. It’s a very simple concept (ubiquitous, even, with production off-roaders), but the calibration here is phenomenal.

The result of that veneer of tech laid over all that physical capability: You may be able to see the horizon out of the sunroof, but with the Grenadier’s downhill assist engaged, you never feel panicked. In the hands of a modestly talented off-road wheelman like myself, the Grenadier felt content to bounce along apocalyptic muddy country paths at 10 mph, unfazed. Or it’d play Billy goat up a steep wet gravel trail, the diffs locked and transfer case set to the low range, just happy and unfussed as could be. The Grenadier turns trails that’d make a hiker collapse into a non-event.

This performance was expected. Ineos insists the Grenadier was designed just for this brand of work and play—enabling Scottish estate owners to prowl their lands or off-road enthusiasts to probe hostile wilderness, or for U.N. aid workers to reach the remote corners of our planet. Of course, the marketing materials would say that, but the more you push the Grenadier’s limits and the closer you look around the vehicle, the louder that built-for-purpose line rings true.

The Grenadier’s suspension allows 10.4 inches of ground clearance with a 35.5-degree approach angle and a 36.1-degree departure angle. That means you can nose up the steep stuff without a care and that a Grenadier can wade through water up to 31.5 inches (a snorkel is optional, of course) before its driver considers the consequences of such idiocy. The Grenadier’s exterior is trimmed with utility belts at waist-level for attaching gas canisters, water jugs, lights, racks, storage, or whatever other trinkets the aftermarket will surely supply.

In one particularly considered trick, Ineos inverted the spare wheel attached to the back door of the rig so that the hollow portion of the wheel is facing outward, with the wheel spokes nearer to the door. A locking door covers the open side of the wheel, creating a small compartment inside the hollow of the wheel itself. There, an owner might store a pair of mucky boots instead of tossing them in the cab. Anyone who’s gone out clamming for a day will know why that’s necessary. It’s a small, heavenly detail. You see those everywhere on the Grenadier.

On our way back from the off-road trail, I wondered how the buying public might take to a vehicle that looks like a Defender or maybe a G-Wagen but is neither. The flashing lights and frantic waves of passing Defender drivers seemed a sufficient answer. Those drivers were enthused to see a conga line of purposeful-looking trucks up to their hips in dirt and grime. But maybe they looked a bit confused too. When we parked the dozen-odd, muddied Grenadiers in a parking lot for a tea and shortie break (God, I love the Scots), Land Rover drivers idled past the rigs like clockwork, slack-jawed. Then they rolled past again for another befuddled look.

Expect a lot of curious, enthusiastic stares if you buy a Grenadier.

It was hard to tell if classic Defender owners recognized the Grenadier as an evolved Defender or something completely different, but a parked Grenadier was always sure to strike up a conversation. At any rate, the smiles and waves of passing Defender owners told me that if you do buy a Grenadier, you’re inducted into the club as a card-carrying member.

The end of our day out in the Highlands brought an opportunity to sprint the Grenadiers back down Scotland’s narrow, dark highways to the warm respite of our hotel, and the promise of a peaty Islay dram or six. It was the first real opportunity to stretch the Grenadier’s legs, and the first opportunity to ask real questions of the truck as a road vehicle; as much as the off-road capability of trucks like these matters on paper, for most buyers, the Grenadier will spend 95 percent of its life gritting through drudgery on pavement.

Within mere corners, the Ineos showed its stuff.

If you’ve spent much time in lifted body-on-frames, you’ll understand the patience required to wrestle off-roaders through corners smoothly. Confident steering inputs are key. Here, the Grenadier uses recirculating-ball steering with hydraulic assist at 3.85 turns lock-to-lock. That steering, plus a relatively sophisticated suspension paired to the stick axles (in this case, progressive coil springs, anti-roll bars, and a five-link setup) means decently quick turn-in on corner entry and stable roadholding through Scotland’s brisk, tight backroads.

Navigating those corners at speed does take some skill, as mentioned. But if you’re willing to give the Grenadier the type of smooth inputs the steering and chassis ask for, the truck returns in kind. Into tight bends, you look all the way through the corner and make one smooth initial steering input. Wait a second for the body to set on all that suspension travel, but keep your hands steady in the process and don’t disrupt longitudinal stability with harsh brake or throttle inputs. By waiting out that half-second when the suspension is damping that body motion, you can point the Grenadier through any corner like you would a sport sedan.

You wouldn’t call the Ineos a Lotus Elan, but for a lifted dreadnaught of an SUV, it’s excellent. It’s a confident thing to corner, with none of the wallowing suspension motion that stilts some body-on-frame off-roaders (namely the Jeep Wrangler and Gladiator). That should pay dividends when you’re running late for soccer practice or whipping up to interstate speeds through an on-ramp.

To that end, the components which lend themselves to cornering chops (well-tuned shocks and the right set of springs, along with road-friendly geometry from the suspension itself) offer superb ride quality. You don’t hear a single clunk from the frame or body when the Grenadier hits a pothole, and for ride comfort, the Grenadier will embarrass Japanese competitors like the Toyota Tacoma or 4Runner. Still, Ineos can’t match the sophistication of something with active suspension like the Ford Raptor or the magical Multimatic dampers on the Chevy ZR-2. But it’s comfortable enough in all situations that I never lacked for coddling.

The Grenadier’s powertrain follows suit, lending easygoing road manners and bolstering those off-road chops. In America, the Ineos will be powered by BMW’s turbocharged 3.0-liter B58 inline-six. The mill mates to the ubiquitous and excellent ZF 8-Speed. That pair are a favorite around Road & Track , providing glass-smooth power delivery and a flat torque curve to match. Ineos argues the powertrain has proved durable enough to serve as the Grenadier’s reliable beating heart and that the combo should be easily serviced nearly anywhere on earth.

The performance aftermarket has certainly upheld that first claim—the B58 is the darling of tuners the world over. That second part? I’m not so sure. I can’t imagine rolling up to many shops in Saharan Africa with the tools and know-how to address such a modern, complex engine. But if you’re anywhere near the first world, I imagine you’d be in good shape.

During a conversation with the Grenadier’s Lead Engineer about the selection of that engine, something else struck me. At 60 mph, the Grenadier’s cabin is quiet enough to carry on a conversation just above a whisper. The engineer explained that Ineos opted for an NVH-damping mat laid against the vehicle’s floor and roof, and the windshield itself is 5.5 mm thick, cutting wind and road noise. Surely that weight penalized the Grenadier’s efficiency, but most things that look old and roll on a ladder frame are hateful things to live with, loud as a gale at interstate speeds.

The Grenadier is not. Its cabin is a simple but civil place, with excellent Recaro seats and basic controls to operate everything else. There’s Apple CarPlay and its Android Auto cousin, sure, but that’s about as modern as the infotainment system—or the rest of the interior—gets. Toggles overhead activate your various accessories and drive modes. There’s a physical shifter for the eight-speed and a mechanical lever for the transfer case. Buttons and switches activate nearly every other feature.

A veneer of simplicity may coat the Grenadier, courtesy of its sparse cabin and old-school good looks, but Ineos earns the title of “production automobile.” Half-baked this truck is not. The Grenadier is a deeply joyous thing to live and play with, built to a quality of production and thought you simply won’t find in a restomod, lest you pay well into the six figures. Heavy hitters from Mercedes and Land Rover would beg for your Grenadier money, but Ineos offers a competitive, compelling solution for the legitimate weekend warriors, off-road junkies, and even city folk who want to broadcast a capability they never intend to use.

I wouldn’t hesitate to buy a Grenadier instead of the many alternatives, and I wouldn’t look longingly at those alternatives when I passed one on the road.

That said, fuel economy will certainly steer some buyers away from the Grenadier. At an estimated fuel efficiency around 19 mpg, according to their site, the BMW mill and its seamless ZF gearbox can’t overcome moving the Ineos’s boxy shape and all that weight through the air (a curb weight was not listed on their press material, but a note has been sent to Ineos PR). That’s no worse than my Toyota Tacoma, which over 25,000 miles has averaged 19 mpg, but with EV options abounding and gas prices soaring, it’s worth consideration.

Another American journalist insisted the Grenadier will tempt America’s yee-haw set—our rural gun and land owners with less access to EV infrastructure, people who are more likely to skate over loose gravel on the way to work and kick back with a cold one after a day of wheeling in their off-roader.

I disagree. Those buyers will stick with F-150s or Wranglers. To my mind, in America, the Grenadier will compete with luxury off-roaders like the G-Wagen and the modern Defender, or maybe the more expensive trims from Toyota, like the Tacoma and 4Runner TRD Pros, which regularly crest $60,000 after dealer markup.

The classic Defender shape, which the Grenadier apes, doesn’t broadcast blue-collar values the way it does in England. Defenders never prowled our wheat farms or our cattle ranches in America. Anything which is visually attached to that old Land Rover identity reads more like Landed Gentry than Farm Hand to the American buyer.

That’s probably just as well. Ineos hasn’t officially released pricing for the Grenadier, but expect it to start around $57,000 for a bare-bones truck and go up from there. Below $70,000, you should be able to piece together a very well-equipped truck with all the off-road doo-dads. The Ineos site offers a fair amount of customization too, as well as more complete information about the two available trims Americans will see at the vehicle’s launch.

Even with its many factory customization options, one Ineos engineer said their goal is to sell between 25–30k vehicles per year globally and that their factory is capable of satisfying the upper end of that demand in perpetuity.

Of further interest for American buyers: There’s a pickup version of the Grenadier coming around middle of 2024, which swaps out the rear cargo area for a bed. I expect that will open up Ineos to its biggest market in America: truck owners. (Boy howdy, I’d have a Grenadier pickup over the Jeep Gladiator seven days a week and twice on Sunday.) There’s also a BEV version of the Grenadier in the wings.

Ineos should find easy prey with Toyota 4Runner buyers looking for something more refined, every bit as capable, but simply different than what their flat-brimmed neighbors park in the driveway. Equally, the Grenadier offers the same curb appeal as a G-Wagen, if not the same cachet as a rig adorned with the three-pointed star. But Ineos undercuts the Merc’s sale price by hundreds of thousands once dealer markups are accounted for. Restomod shoppers or classic 4x4 enthusiasts should also be drawn in, those who want a production vehicle that mimics the simple, un-fussed joy of owning an old rig.

All that said, Ineos has not yet sorted a system of dealers or repair locations. Company officials anticipate partnering with local repair shops to service Grenadiers, but that plan’s still hazy. It may behoove curious buyers to wait out the first round of ordering while that infrastructure is established. But if you can’t wait, I’d still place a bet on the Grenadier’s reliability until that support network is finished.

At any rate, I can’t wait to see them on roads in the States. As of the time of writing, Grenadier production is ramping up to full speed at the French factory. We should see Grenadiers leaving the Continent for our far-flung shores by the end of the year. That’s when the Grenadier’s adventure really begins.

Kyle Kinard was a Washington-based senior editor at Road & Track.

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Safari side Windows and channels

• Thread starter Kernite
• Start date Jun 8, 2020

• Jun 8, 2020

SWBFreeLoader

Big landy fan.

Wow thanks @SWBFreeLoader that’s a great help. Will have to go back to my hunt for bits. I now remember the outer trim which clearly I had forgotten. Holes were given no thought but I imagine the front window is the outer one and back one fits on the inner track so rain does not blow in as you go along. a picture of the small vertical ally insert would be useful as I can’t picture it. many thanks.  

Posting Guru

• Jun 9, 2020

Thanks for all the pics. Found the missing parts. in that I have primed the vertical spacing bit I’m assuming it is finished in colour unlike the door spacers which are unpainted aluminium. Looking at @DarrenH felt runners I’m almost regretting going the plastic route. Look very nice.  

Attachments

the vertical strips were alloy on mine, the longer horizontal strip that clip over the frame are body coloured (at least on on the cosmetic visible bits) dont be put off by my windows, they are full of moss and really mucky/ borderline deteriorating now. i bought a large roll of double tracked polyurethane window runners during rockymountains closing down sale last year! (planning ahead for future) only other advice i can add is that i remember blobs of dumdum to seal the ends of the galvanised trough to the body, you can see it in james photo  

SWBFreeLoader said: A final tip from me would be to make up some shim material for the top channels. You could consider shimming the lower ones too I guess. Click to expand...

• Jun 12, 2020

Kernite said: Front windows. I have watched a couple of youtube videos but the bit I am still uncertain on is the orientation of the the channels. I intend to glue rather than screw so on the side rear windows I had cut the horizontals the full width and made an assumption that the two verticals would be cut to go in between the horizontals providing a bit of support. One youtube video hinted at the verticals running the whole height of the window and the horizontals cut so they fit between - bearing in mind to leave a gap to allow water to drain Click to expand...

Kernite said: Is there a decent supplier of the aluminium fill/spacer bits as mine are a bit shabby and one has a rounded profile and the other has a more square profile, but then on looking in the parts book they appear as a squared off S. The window diagram has far more bits than I have! I must have thought that the windows were simple so have not pictures whatsoever prior to dismantling and they were complete toast anyway. The youtube video I watched had got his from infills from ebay and even in the video they looked pretty poor copies. Click to expand...

Kernite said: Window Catches For the rear tub windows the catches are like hens teeth. I am missing one, one has broken on the threaded end of the circular clamp that fits on the outside and as for those little teardrop suckers that lock it - they must have been there when I dismantled but I did not recognise their existence and they must have dropped out so have only one left but can probably make them. Were they originally teardrop of cylindrical? Click to expand...

Kernite said: My original catches on the doors are the little furled knobs but all the doors have the hole for the later catch. I will probably stay original and blank off the hole but wondered whether I should/can cut the hole in the bottom channel (plastic) so that I can fit the more modern catch at a later stage should, heaven forbid, that I change my mind. Click to expand...

Series 1 2 & 3

Kernite said: ............... Window Catches For the rear tub windows the catches are like hens teeth. I am missing one, one has broken on the threaded end of the circular clamp that fits on the outside and as for those little teardrop suckers that lock it - they must have been there when I dismantled but I did not recognise their existence and they must have dropped out so have only one left but can probably make them. Were they originally teardrop of cylindrical? My original catches on the doors are the little furled knobs but all the doors have the hole for the later catch. I will probably stay original and blank off the hole but wondered whether I should/can cut the hole in the bottom channel (plastic) so that I can fit the more modern catch at a later stage should, heaven forbid, that I change my mind. Many thanks as always. Jonathan Click to expand...

With the front doors, I would certainly not want to leave any drainage channel into the door top structure. The rear windows have a tray especially for this, the door tops are just a rust trap waiting to die! I would not use the S3 style latch, even if I had a S3. The earlier barrel catches are much safer to use and just as functional IMO. I recently swapped my door tops to 'wolf' ones and my originals were pretty battered, but the ally parts were all usable. I did strip one just for personal amusement (?!) so I could learn how they went together as i'm just that kind of dullard. They more closely resembled 1 in your picture. There is an L section strip up front holding the front glass in place, a rubber buffer in the top front corner to stop the sliding glass slamming forward. The top and bottom channels just butt straight up to the front glass and the rear vertical channel aligns with them. The ally infils are square profile 'S' shapes and there was a shimming strip on the bottom of my door to align things nicely (as nicely as Land Rovers get). You could quite easily forego the infils and functionally it wouldn't be an issue if the front glazing were sealed/bonded securely. Rear window catches: The locking pins are rounded on one end and pointed on the other. Pointed end goes into the catch, rounded end upwards to make movement easier on the runner/locking strips. Try a lot of heat and an easy-out type device on the threaded domed end. You may surprise yourself. I almost shat myself when I managed to get my broken thread out. It was the first time i've ever managed to use one of those crappy backwards screw/drill things to ever remove anything I cared about. Normally just snap them and make it 1000 times worse... I'm fortunate and have all my catches and they (now) all work nicely. It may not be pretty, but they should be functionally easy to copy with a block of ally. They're essentially a C shape over the runner with a hole down for the pin and across for the button/spring. All retained by a smaller crosspin. Then a lower bit with another hole in it to go through to a threaded cap on the other side of the glass. You can copy the essence of functionality with simple hand tools and a bit of measuring I would have thought. Another option would be to make some castings and mouldings in silicone and try and copy them out of reinforced resins. They don't need to be that strong all things considered. I guess you could even embrace the future and 3dprint them!  

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Alpine Windows land rover defender 90/110 and Series

Single OEM units

Filler seals or weather seals

The same size as Land Rover windows the kit includes 2 Alpine window glass, 2 inner seals, 2 outer seals.

Comes with cutting guide

£ 7.99 – £ 230.00 ex VAT

Description

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2020-Present Land Rover Defender

Safari Gard Inc.

Hailing from Murrieta, CA, Safari Gard Inc. was founded in 1998 and operated by Greg Jevne with help from Matt Jevne, Brandi Albright, and Mary Chadd. This crew traveled the country showing off the incredible fabrication skills and innovative products based on their NAS Land Rover Defender 90. Though gone defunct in 2006, the designs had grown to become iconic with enthusiasts and product coverage spread across the Land Rover brand as well as Ford, Jeep, and Toyota. In those short 8 years, SG Inc. had begun international product distribution and nurtured a relationship directly with Land Rover North America to develop the Discovery II Kalahari concept which was displayed at SEMA.

Safari Gard LLC

After several months of research and direct contact with Greg Jevne, we decided to revive the brand and pay homage to the history by making the parts available again. This time with small design changes to improve manufacturability and consistency. In February 2020, "Safari Gard" was trademarked and the LLC formed in Orlando, FL. As a longtime Land Rover enthusiast and fan of Safari Gard Inc., we strive to produce and supply top quality products for your vehicles while continuing the legacy by also designing products for newer models. While the future is uncertain if we will branch outside of Land Rovers, we are working behind the scenes to build a webstore to allow for current product builds and quote requests. Look for this in the future as most parts are built to order, though some products that are in stock are listed on eBay. We are extremely active on social media, so be sure to follow along with us!

Copyright © 2022 Safari Gard LLC - All Rights Reserved. Safari Gard TM

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Masai Land Rover Defender Panoramic Windows

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Step by step How-to instructions for the factory window channel materials and Modern channel material from Rocky Mountain Replacement Window Track Kit # RMG9517K

I decided that I didn't want to replace the window channels every decade just because I lived in a moist area so I looked to see what else might be available that was a little more modern. I found the solution at Rocky Mountain.  They offer a window track kit for rear side sliding windows that uses the rubber sliders from their well regarded aluminum front door tops.  This is another one of their hidden products, like the disc brake conversion kit, that does not show up in their web sites.  Personally I've never understood why these guys come up with good products that they don't tell anyone about.  Anyway I decided to go with the modern tracks instead of using 1940's technology that provides a predictably dismal life expectancy.  To obtain the secret Rocky Mountain rear side window channel kit you need to contact them, knock on the door three times, pause, then one more knock.  When the little peephole in the door opens tell the guy that TeriAnn sent you for Replacement window track kit #RM9517.  I keep wondering what other nifty solutions they have secreted away that you have to ask for before they will tell you they have it.

This is the contents of Rocky Mountain replacement window track kit #RM9517 6 rubber window channels in Stainless steel frames and a bag of stainless steel mounting screws

Cross section of the Rocky Mountain window channel

How to replace rear side sliding window channels in a Series Land Rover

The channel replacement instructions will work for both stock and the modern track replacement  

You will Need:

• Channel replacement kit with new channels and mounting screws  
• Aluminum 3/16ths pop rivets.  The one with aluminum centres  
• one or two tubes of adhesive RTV #81158 (16BR), (I used one tube per side)  
• Rubber washers (spacers), LR # 340391 These align the sliding window catch by adding or subtracting spacers. Quantity needed varies by individual truck.  I just order a dozen and saved the left over washers. Read instructions before ordering as you may not need these.  
• A small amount of Dumdum or equivalent flexible sealing material for the gap between the galvanized drip plate and the ends of the window frames  
• Tools: Drill with 3/16th bit, rivet tool, saw for trimming window channels (if using the Rocky Mountain kit), screw driver, narrow putty knife or equiv. to loosen channels, tool to loosen debris in the bottom drain channel, water source to help clean drains and possibly tools for cutting  or forcing channel mounting screws with buggered heads.

Removing the old tracks

First of all, the manual tells you to unbolt and remove the bottom galvanized drain assembly that holds the bottom slider rails.  It is wrong.  You can not remove this assembly without first removing the windows. There is no need to remove this piece when replacing window channels. The key is starting at the top. 1. There are two stainless steel latch slide channels pop riveted to the top of the window frame. These need to be removed by drilling out the 3/16ths pop rivets These need to be removed by drilling out the 3/16ths pop rivets using a 3/16ths drill bit   2. Remove the window latches from the windows and inside top rails. There is a small metal part in the latch that pops into the holes in the top rail. It just sits into a hole on top and can easily fall out. YOU DO NOT WANT TO LOOSE THESE . If you do you will need to purchase a complete new latch assembly. If your windows slide easily when the latch is released and you are using the same kind of window channels for the replacement, you can skip this step and keep the latches attached to the window panes. Do not loose the pin inside the latch   3. Now you need to hunt screws inside the top and side slide channels. Commonly there are two screws on each vertical channel. They roughly divide the vertical channels into thirds. The number of top and bottom screws can vary from vehicle to vehicle but they are usually side by side in each channel.  Move the window glass to one end and look for a screw about 2 inches in from the end and another near the glass towards the middle of the window opening.  Slide the glass to the other end & search again. You will want to clean the debris away from the screw heads, make sure the slots are clean and spray penetrating oil before attempting to unscrew them.  Usually it is the screws on the bottom channel that have the worst rust problems.  You can remove the windows with just the top and side channels free then free up the bottom channel with the windows removed. The rear vertical channel comes with a metal spacer that will come out with the channel when the screws are removed. The channels may stick in place, either from a glue or from age and heat on the materials. Careful prying should get it off. 4. Once the screws are removed from the top and side rail channels, pull/push the top of the windows inwards. The factory used a glue like sealant to help keep moisture from seeping around the channels so you may have run a putty knife between the channel and frame and to do a little prying first to separate the channels from the window frame. Pries the window channels from the top.  The top channels, side channels and windows should come out together.   5 . Once the widows and channels are out, clean the debris from inside the galvanized steel drip pan. Below the bottom window channels is an aluminum strip that is crimped over the bottom window frame.  This is a friction fit and can be prised up and out.  Remove this and clean the galvanized drip try and drains. Make sure the drain tubes are completely clear of debris.  Running water really helps with this step. Replace the aluminum strip after cleaning. The drip tray tends to collect dirt and plant debris, clogging the drain holes 6 . Clean the window channel mounting areas of all dirt and old sealant.  There is black dry putty like stuff at the bottom corners between the outer edge of the galvanized drip channel and the window frame sides (or at lest there was when the vehicle left the factory). It's purpose is to keep water flowing down the vertical side channels from missing the drain pan. If it is not in very good condition or if it came out with everything else you will want to replace it.  This stuff is called Dumdum sealant. It works well for gaps between parts in a vehicle because it always remains flexible. It is normally sold in short strips at better auto parts stores. This is the same stuff the factory puts around the edges of your floor panels to seal them. 7. Clean up the window frame around where the channels mount.   This is a good place to interrupt the project if you are painting the hard top.  

Reassembly of the window using Land Rover factory materials ( Click here if using Rocky mountain kit )

NOTE: Assembly will be in the order of bottom channels, windows plus top channels then side channels.

Organize your window channels.  For each side window, there are two short vertical channel sections plus four longer channel sections. Of the four, two are identical long channels. These are the top channels. The shorter channel without notches at the ends is the inside bottom channel. The shorter channel with a notch cut at each end is the lower outside channel. The notches face the outside. This notch is to allow water to drain from the outer bottom channel into the drip tray below.

8 . Place Dumdum or equivalent putty at the junction between the ends of the galvanized drip channel and the window frame ends.  This is to keep water from flowing past the drain channels into the interior of your vehicle. 9. If you are using new windows or are missing the rubber wiper seals install new wiper rubber (LR#332230) and metal retainer (LR#330661) centered vertically on the glass. The rubber wiper seals the space between the sliding windows to keep out rain moving sideways on the window when the vehicle is moving. 10. Temporarily place the rear side channel spacer in place and use it to locate the notched lower channel. Place the bottom channels into position with the notches on the outside channel facing out. Centre the bottom channels between the ends. Push both channels towards the outside to eliminate any space between the channels and the channel and wall.  Install a center and end screws at the inside bottom of each bottom channel. NOTE: The new channel securing screws provided by Rover has a larger diameter top than the old ones. The original ones were usually angled towards the outside of the channel bottoms. With the larger head, drill the hole in the centre straight down in the centre of the channel so the glass doesn't hang up on the screw head.

11. Apply adhesive RTV #81158 (16BR) to the top channel mounting surfaces of the frame.  This RTV serves to keep water from flowing between the base of the channels and frame onto the interior walls of your vehicle.  Set both windows in the lower channels and put the top channels in place on the top of the windows. Push the windows and channels up into place. Slide both windows to one end. With all the slack between top channels removed, add a screw on each top slide near the edge of the glass and then a second near the end.

12. Slide the windows to the other end and add a screw on each top slide near the end of the channel.  If you wish you can add another top screw towards the glass end of the opening like the factory did. The three screws on each channel should hold the channel in place quite well.

13. Apply adhesive RTV to the front vertical channel mounting surfaces of the frame.  Line up the front vertical channel with it's corresponding top and bottom channels and secure it in place with two screws.

14. Apply adhesive RTV to the rear vertical channel mounting surfaces of the frame. Set the rear channel spacer and rear vertical channel into place. Line the rear vertical channel up with the inside channels. Don't worry about a tight fit to the spacer. Secure it into place with two screws.

15. Secure the stainless steel rails back into place with 3/16ths aluminum core pop rivets.

16. Install the window latches into place using new gaskets if you had previously removed them. The latches and their mounting screws are different lengths and will not fit if you get them backwards. Use additional rubber gaskets between the window and latch as spacers to get the latch lined up with the sliding rail. If it is cocked, the latch will not release smoothly and it will try to catch on each hole in the slide.  This is critical to keep the sliding window from hanging up. What you want is to have the rail surface with the holes to be parallel with the surface of the latch that moves over the rail.

And that is all there is to it. The window movement will be stiff at first. But it will look nicer and your rear interior will be dryer.

Reassembly of the window using Rocky Mountain window channel kit

NOTE: Assembly will be in the order of bottom channels, windows plus top slide channels then side channels.

Trim your window channels - The channels will need to be cut for proper fit.  If your old channels are in good enough condition you can use them as cutting guides.  The top channel takes up the entire length of the window frame.  The bottom channel should be about 1/4 inch shorter than the inside opening of the drip tray. When it is mounted over the drip tray it should be centered so that water can flow out the channel ends into the drip pan.  You can cut an additional slot in the bottom ends of one of the channels to mimic the drain slot in the original factory channel.  The cut slot will be the outside slot when you mount the bottom channel. Two of the six channels supplied with the kit get cut down to become the side channels. The side channel needs to fit the space between the top and bottom channels.  You do not need the aluminum spacer that is used with the stock channels on the rear side of the window.  I suggest saving the aluminum spacers just in case you ever sell the truck to someone who wants to do a factory like restoration.

After cutting the channels I suggest making a trial fit of all the channels together with the glass to assure that everything fits properly.  The wrong time to make final trim cuts is after you have already applied the adhesive and discovered one or more of the channels is slightly too long.

Using screws or not using screws - The RTV #81158 (16BR) adhesive does a good job of securing the channels.  If you use an adequate amount of the RTV adhesive you can assemble the window without using screws. Or you can assemble the channels the way the factory did with both adhesive and screws.  If you use the screws you will need to cut space in the bottom of the rubber channel to recess the screw head. The factory style channels depends upon the fuzzy material to keep the glass off the screw heads.  An X-Acto knife or equivalent should do the job.  I just used a tube of RTV adhesive on each window and ignored the screws.  Time will tell how wise a choice that is.

8. Start with the bottom channel.  It should be centered in the window frame.  If you have cut drain notches in the bottom end of one of the channels to aid draining, the notches should be to the outside.  There should be space at both ends for water to flow into the drip channels.  If you are using screws to mount the channel you do not need to use the adhesive on this channel as it is sitting directly over the drain pan. 10. If you are using new windows or are missing the rubber wiper seals install new wiper rubber (LR#332230) and metal retainer (LR#330661) centered vertically on the glass. The rubber wiper seals the space between the sliding windows to keep out rain moving sideways on the window when the vehicle is moving.  The gap between my sliding windows is 0.28" on one side and 0.24" on the other.  The rubber seal was long enough to bind the windows when I went to change sliding directions.  I ended up trimming the seal height down for easier sliding. 11. Apply adhesive RTV along the frame surfaces the top channels sits against.  Set both windows in the lower channels and put the top channel in place on the top of the windows. Push the windows and channel up into place. If you are using screws, slide both windows to one end. With the top channel channel against the frame edge, add a screw on the top channel near the edge of the glass and then a second near the end. 12. Slide the windows to the other end add a screw at the other end of the channel. 13. Apply adhesive RTV along the frame surfaces the front channel will sit against. Line up the front vertical channels with it's corresponding top and bottom channels so the glass can easily slide into the vertical side channel.  If you are just using adhesive RTV to retain the channels keep a window in place all the way forward to anchor the locations as the adhesive sets up.  If you are using adhesive and screws, secure the front vertical channel in place with two screws. 14. Apply adhesive RTV along the frame surfaces the rear vertical channel will sit against. Line up the rear vertical channels with it's corresponding top and bottom channels so the glass can easily slide into the vertical side channel.  If you are just using adhesive RTV to retain the channels keep a window in place all the way forward to anchor the locations as the adhesive sets up.  If you are using adhesive and screws, secure the rear vertical channel in place with two screws. 15. Secure the stainless steel rails back into place with 3/16ths pop rivets. 16. Install the window latches into place using new gaskets. The latches and their mounting screws are different lengths and will not fit if you get them backwards. Use additional rubber gaskets between the window and latch as spacers to get the latch lined up with the sliding rail. If it is cocked the latch will not release smoothly and it will try to catch on each hole in the slide.

Modifying the latches to slide easier

I was asked: How did you modify the back windows to slide easier? They have always been very stiff on mine to the point that they rarely get opened.

I had the same problem. In frustration I just took the latches off and went without latches for over a decade. When I was replacing window curtain sliders and adding a finish trim around the windows I decided to address my problem with sticky sliders and put the latches back on.

First I ran a finger down the underside of the stainless sliders that the latches slide on and discovered that one of the holes had not been cut cleanly and there was an edge of metal sticking down to trip up the slider. I got out a file and files that edge smooth.

Next I removed the slider locating pins and slid the unattached sliders along the stainless steel strips. I noticed that they bind if you do not get the angle between both parts just right. What the LR factory expects you to do is adjust that angle by adding or subtracting the rubber gaskets between the window and the glass to get the angle right. I was never able to get the just right angle which is why I took the latches off in frustration.

The latch makes a sideways 'U' shape. The bottom of the latch sideways U is what gets caught. So what I did was take a file and filed the bottom of the sideways U to about a 10 degree angle downward towards the outside. This provides more space for the latch to slide without getting stuck. I rounded off the edges of the bottom side of the sideways U so that there would be no edge to catch against.

Next I cleaned out the hole for the pin with a spray cleaner to remove anything that might inhibit the fall of the pin when you press the button. I dropped in a pin and pressed the button to make sure that the pin fell freely all the way. One of the pins was a tight enough fit in its hole that it wanted to hang up. I drilled that hole outrigger by one drill size and recleaned the hole. The pin fell properly into the hole when I pressed the button. I reassembled all the latches on the windows using a single gasket on each side of the window and the latches slid smoothly.

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DEFENDER 90

Rather you choose a Safari HP Legacy, Reserve, or Signature all our Land Rover Defender 90 builds reflect the lifestyle of the unique owner and their own individual expectations.  Every Defender 90 undergoes a complete breakdown to the smallest possible component.  All parts are then thoroughly inspected and restored or replaced as required.  Upon reassembly each component shall be of the highest quality available.  Once competed the truck is thoroughly inspected, road tested and then inspected again. The Safari HP team strives to deliver an exceptional and unique 90 reflecting the owner’s lifestyle with bespoke attention to even the smallest detail.  

DEFENDER 110

The Safari HP Defender 110 is the culmination of our team’s dedication to exceptional quality while exceeding the owner’s expectations.   As with every Safari HP build all components are fully restored to the highest standards possible.   The truck is designed with your unique and individual lifestyle in mind.  From passenger seating arrangement, engine choices, and accessories your 110 will be as individual as you wish it to be.  Rather you choose the traditional Legacy 110, the well-appointed Signature 110, or the exclusive Reserve 110 we will deliver the truck of your dreams. 

DEFENDER 130

The most limited Land Rover Defender is the 130.  Safari HP delivers the most extraordinary and bespoke 130 on the road today.  The quest for a 130 can lead to a basic or Legacy 130, a well-appointed Signature 130 or an over the top Reserve 130.  Safari HP starts each 130 with a new galvanized chassis, equipped with upgraded axles, brakes, and other heavy-duty driveline components.  Next, we install a 420 horsepower Chevrolet Corvette LS3 engine equipped with a six speed automatic transmission and of course 4 wheel drive.

NAS Restoration 

Safari HP is the industry leader in North American Spec (NAS) 90 and 110 restorations.  We listen to the owner and rebuild the NAS Defender to better than factory specifications while respecting the true Land Rover Defender heritage.  Safari HP stocks and retains the world’s supply of many NAS Specific parts to continue to service NAS Defenders for many years to come.  Safari HP also can update NAS Defenders by changing body configurations, upgrading the engines to a 420 HP LS3 engine with an automatic six speed transmission and even install power windows and other comforts not associated with a NAS Defender.  Stock or completely updated Safari HP will exceed your expectations while keeping your truck on the road for another 25 years

New Land Rover Defender for Sale in Moscow, ID

2024 Land Rover Defender 130 P400 S 4dr SUV

• Exterior color: Fuji White Fuji White
• Interior color: Ebony premium leather Ebony premium leather
• 6cyl Automatic
• Land Rover Spokane ( 67 mi away ) 4.33 out of 5 stars ( 6 )
• Home delivery *
• Sunroof/Moonroof
• Keyless Entry/Start

Located in Spokane , WA / 67 miles away from Moscow, ID

Extended Leather Upgrade,Wheels: 20" Gloss Sparkle Silver Style 5098,Black Contrast Roof,Comfort & Convenience Pack,Head-Up Display,14-Way Climate Ele...

Features and Specs:

18 Combined MPG ( 17 City/ 20 Highway)

Listing Information:

VIN: SALEJFEU4R2317128 Stock: R2317128 Listed since: 05-02-2024

2024 Land Rover Defender 90 P525 V8 Carpathian Edition 2dr SUV

• Exterior color: Carpathian Grey Premium Metallic Carpathian Grey Premium Metallic
• 8cyl Automatic

Premium Interior Protection & Storage Pack,Panoramic Roof,Leather Seats,Navigation System,Body Colored Spare Wheel Cover,Exterior Protection Pack,Basi...

16 Combined MPG ( 15 City/ 19 Highway)

VIN: SALEW6EE1R2327397 Stock: R2327397 Listed since: 07-06-2024

2024 Land Rover Defender 90 P400 X-Dynamic SE 2dr SUV

• Exterior color: Gondwana Stone Metallic Gondwana Stone Metallic
• Interior color: Ebony premium cloth/premium leather Ebony premium cloth/premium leather

Air Suspension Pack,Premium Upgrade Interior Pack,Extended Black Exterior Pack,Gondwana Stone Metallic,Premium Interior Protection & Storage Pack,Trai...

20 Combined MPG ( 18 City/ 22 Highway)

VIN: SALE26EU8R2345527 Stock: R2345527 Listed since: 07-30-2024

2024 Land Rover Defender 130 P400 X-Dynamic SE 4dr SUV

• Interior color: Vintage Tan/Ebony premium cloth/premium leather Vintage Tan/Ebony premium cloth/premium leather

Wheels: 22" Gloss Black Finish Style 5098,Towing Pack 2,Carpathian Grey Premium Metallic,Extended Leather Upgrade,Extended Black Exterior Pack,Comfort...

VIN: SALE2FEU7R2352551 Stock: R2352551

2024 Land Rover Defender 130 P400 Outbound 4dr SUV

• Exterior color: Santorini Black Metallic Santorini Black Metallic

Towing Pack 2,Head-Up Display,Comfort & Convenience Pack,Climate Rear Seats W/Center Armrest,Ebony/Ebony; Windsor Leather & Robustec Seats,Premium Int...

17 Combined MPG ( 16 City/ 18 Highway)

VIN: SALEWFEU4R2343701 Stock: R2343701 Listed since: 07-30-2024

2024 Land Rover Defender 110 P400 X 4dr SUV

• Interior color: Ebony premium leather/cloth Ebony premium leather/cloth

Family Comfort Pack,Wheels: 22" Gloss Sparkle Silver Style 5098,Extended Black Exterior Pack,Towing Pack,Comfort & Convenience Pack,Premium Interior P...

VIN: SALEXEEU7R2317830 Stock: R2317830 Listed since: 04-26-2024

2024 Land Rover Defender 90 P300 S 2dr SUV

• Exterior color: Eiger Grey Metallic Eiger Grey Metallic
• 4cyl Automatic

Towing Pack,Wheels: 20" Satin Dark Grey Finish Style 5098,Air Suspension Pack,Extended Leather Upgrade,Comfort & Convenience Pack,Head-Up Display,14-W...

19 Combined MPG ( 18 City/ 21 Highway)

VIN: SALEJ6EX5R2285669 Stock: R2285669 Listed since: 07-23-2024

Family Comfort Pack,Wheels: 22" Gloss Black Finish Style 5098,Extended Black Exterior Pack,Towing Pack,Comfort & Convenience Pack,Premium Interior Pro...

VIN: SALEXEEU6R2320380 Stock: R2320380 Listed since: 05-02-2024

2024 Land Rover Defender 110 P500 SE 4dr SUV

• Interior color: Acorn/Lunar leather/premium cloth Acorn/Lunar leather/premium cloth

Towing Pack,Head-Up Display,Gondwana Stone Metallic,Premium Interior Protection & Storage Pack (5 Seat),Panoramic Roof,Clearsight Interior Rear View M...

16 Combined MPG ( 14 City/ 19 Highway)

VIN: SALEPEFE1R2342522 Stock: R2342522 Listed since: 07-06-2024

• Exterior color: Pangea Green Metallic Pangea Green Metallic
• Interior color: Khaki/Ebony leather/premium cloth Khaki/Ebony leather/premium cloth

Towing Pack,Wheels: 22" Gloss Sparkle Silver Style 5098,3-Zone Climate Control,Black Contrast Roof,Comfort & Convenience Pack,Head-Up Display,Pangea G...

VIN: SALEPEFE5R2314593 Stock: R2314593 Listed since: 05-02-2024

2024 Land Rover Defender 110 P300 S 4dr SUV

Family Pack,Towing Pack,Air Suspension Pack,Santorini Black Metallic,Premium Interior Protection & Storage Pack (5 Seat),Panoramic Roof,Cold Climate P...

19 Combined MPG ( 18 City/ 20 Highway)

VIN: SALEJEEX7R2348670 Stock: R2348670 Listed since: 08-09-2024

Satin Protective Film,Family Comfort Pack,Wheels: 22" Gloss Black Finish Style 5098,Extended Black Exterior Pack,Panoramic Roof,Cold Climate Package,L...

VIN: SALEXEEU5R2353516 Stock: R2353516

Family Pack,Towing Pack,Air Suspension Pack,Premium Interior Protection & Storage Pack (5 Seat),Panoramic Roof,Cold Climate Package,Leather Seats,Navi...

VIN: SALEJEEX2R2348267 Stock: R2348267 Listed since: 07-31-2024

Wheels: 22" Gloss Black Finish Style 5098,Towing Pack 2,Black Contrast Roof,Head-Up Display,Premium Interior Protection & Storage Pack (Df301),Black E...

VIN: SALEJFEU1R2337935 Stock: R2337935 Listed since: 07-03-2024

2024 Land Rover Defender 110 P400 X-Dynamic SE 4dr SUV

• Land Rover of Tacoma at Fife ( 256 mi away )

Located in Fife , WA / 256 miles away from Moscow, ID

VIN: SALE27EU7R2345198 Stock: 4DE090 Listed since: 07-24-2024

• Exterior color: Tasman Blue Metallic Tasman Blue Metallic

VIN: SALE26EU5R2340009 Stock: 4DE087 Listed since: 06-27-2024

2024 Land Rover Defender 110 P400 S 4dr SUV

VIN: SALEJ7EU4R2344187 Stock: 4DE092 Listed since: 07-24-2024

VIN: SALE26EU7R2313068 Stock: 4DE067 Listed since: 04-26-2024

2024 Land Rover Defender 130 P400 X 4dr SUV

• Interior color: Ebony leatherette/premium cloth Ebony leatherette/premium cloth

VIN: SALEXFEU5R2324037 Stock: 4DE078 Listed since: 05-16-2024

VIN: SALEJ7EX4R2349870 Stock: 4DE097 Listed since: 08-01-2024

VIN: SALEJFEU3R2346085 Stock: 4DE093 Listed since: 07-28-2024

Consumer Reviews for the Land Rover   Defender

• 5 star ( 77 %)
• 4 star ( 6 %)
• 3 star ( 13 %)
• 2 star ( 0 %)
• 1 star ( 3 %)

Dead on the 3rd day- LR took care of me

More about the land rover defender.

Edmunds has 54 New Land Rover Defenders for sale near you, including a 2024 Defender 110 P300 S SUV and a 2024 Defender 90 P525 V8 Carpathian Edition SUV ranging in price from $64,468 to $118,953.

How much is a new 2024 Land Rover Defender in Moscow, ID?

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• Remote Start ( 19 )
• Seat Memory ( 40 )
• Telescopic Steering Wheel ( 19 )
• Trip Computer ( 38 )
• Alarm ( 38 )
• Automatic Emergency Braking ( 38 )
• Back-Up Camera ( 19 )
• Blind Spot Monitoring ( 19 )
• Heads Up Display ( 21 )
• Lane Departure Warning ( 34 )
• Occupant Sensing Airbag ( 19 )
• Parking Sensors ( 19 )
• Pre-Collision Safety System ( 19 )
• Stability Control ( 38 )
• Tire Pressure Warning ( 38 )

Engine & Exterior

• AWD/4WD ( 30 )
• Heated Mirrors ( 38 )
• Roof Rack ( 14 )
• Sunroof Moonroof ( 53 )
• Towing Hitch ( 13 )
• Upgraded Engine ( 19 )
• Upgraded Headlights ( 38 )
• Upgraded Tires ( 26 )

Entertainment

• AUX Audio Inputs ( 19 )
• Android Auto ( 4 )
• Apple CarPlay ( 23 )
• Bluetooth ( 23 )
• Mobile Internet ( 4 )
• Premium Audio ( 23 )

Options & Packages

• 11.4" Touchscreen ( 1 )
• 18-Way Climate Front Row Seats w/Driver Memory ( 1 )
• 18-Way Climate Front Row Seats w/Memory ( 2 )
• 20" 5 Spoke 'Style 5098' Wheels w/Gloss Sparkle Silver Finish ( 1 )
• 20" 5 Spoke 'Style 5098' Wheels w/Satin Dark Grey Finish ( 1 )
• 20" 6 Spoke 'Style 6011' Wheels w/Gloss Black Finish ( 1 )
• 22" 5 Spoke 'Style 5098' Wheels w/Gloss Black Finish ( 5 )
• 22" 5 Spoke 'Style 5098' Wheels w/Gloss Sparkle Silver Finish ( 2 )
• 3-Zone Climate Control w/Chiller ( 1 )
• 40/20/40 Folding Heated Rear Seats w/Center Armrest ( 2 )
• 40/20/40 Folding Heated Third Row Seats ( 2 )
• 60/40 Load Through Climate Rear Seats w/Manual Slide, Recline and Center Armrest ( 2 )
• 60/40 Load Through Heated Rear Seats w/Manual Slide, Recline and Center Armrest ( 4 )
• 60/40 Load Through Rear Seats w/Manual Slide, Recline and Center Armrest ( 2 )
• Air Quality Sensor ( 2 )
• Air Suspension Pack ( 4 )
• Basic Rear Seat Convenience Pack ( 1 )
• Black Contrast Roof ( 3 )
• Black Contrast Signature Graphic w/Interior Storage ( 4 )
• Black Exposed Rear Recovery Eyes ( 3 )
• Black Exterior Pack ( 3 )
• Body Color Roof ( 2 )
• Body Colored Spare Wheel Cover ( 13 )
• Cabin Air Purification Plus ( 2 )
• ClearSight Interior Rear View Mirror ( 8 )
• Cold Climate Package ( 11 )
• Comfort and Convenience Pack ( 7 )
• Emergency Pack ( 2 )
• Extended Black Exterior Pack ( 6 )
• Extended Leather Upgrade ( 3 )
• Family Comfort Pack ( 3 )
• Family Pack ( 2 )
• Front Undershield ( 1 )
• Head-Up Display ( 7 )
• Loadspace Partition Net ( 2 )
• Natural Smoked Oak ( 3 )
• Premium Interior Protection & Storage Pack ( 1 )
• Premium Upgrade Interior Pack ( 1 )
• Rough-Cut Walnut ( 2 )
• Satin Protective Film ( 1 )
• Towing Pack ( 7 )
• Towing Pack 2 ( 3 )
• Trailer Hitch w/Electrical Connector ( 2 )
• Wheel Protection Pack w/Silver Locks ( 1 )
• Wi-Fi Enabled w/Data Plan ( 4 )

Vehicle Listing Details

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Offering high quality Land Rover specialized service at a great value, Sarek Autowerke is the place to go for your Land Rover repair, maintenance and service. Do you need transportation while your Rover is serviced? Do you need your vehicle picked up? Do you appreciate a clean vehicle when you receive it back? Not a problem. We are here to help. We offer all aspects of service and repair to the Land Rover product line. From routine service to full restorations. From coding and programming to trail rig upgrades. We offer everything your beloved Land Rover needs with the training and experience to fix it right the first time, every time! We are also Land Rover enthusiasts. We own, drive and love Rovers. We are very active in Rover events and lend our support whenever we can. We are active supporting members of the Rover Owners Association of Virginia.

Please check https://ROAV.org for more Rover Owners Association info

We Moved! Come visit our new facility.

8611 Telegraph RD, Glen Allen, VA 23060

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