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CRUISE AND FERRY REVIEW

Cruise & Ferry Review was first launched in the early 1990s and since then has become a trusted and reliable source for news on the passenger shipping industry. In 2011, we acquired the title and made investments to build on the success of the brand and transform it into a definitive resource for decision makers in the cruise and ferry industries.

Our content covers both the cruise and ferry businesses, and provides our audience with insight into building and refurbishment, marine operations, onboard experience, ports and destinations and more.

Via our print and digital magazine, website and social networks, we aim to be the world’s best supplier of news and insight into the global passenger shipping industries, providing content in formats to suit all readers.

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A Skeptic’s Take on Sailing the Mediterranean on a 1,250-Passenger Cruise Ship

Oceania cruises’ recently relaunched “ riviera” is smaller than mega-ships that carry thousands, but it can still feel like a big cruise ship to some. one writer reveals what surprised her most about the experience..

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Even at full capacity, the Riviera delivered a more intimate feeling, small-ship experience.

Courtesy of Oceania Cruises

“I know why this cruise is 10 days,” my husband half-joked as we wandered the Riviera shortly after boarding in Athens. “Because it takes that long to figure out where everything is.”

Indeed, with a capacity of 1,250, the ship seemed large to my husband and me; we have typically sailed on ships with 500 passengers or fewer .

While Oceania Cruises bills itself as small-ship luxury, I would characterize it as medium-size. Whatever the definition, we were a bit hesitant. But we decided to give it a whirl because of Oceania’s reputation for outstanding service and cuisine, as well as Riviera’s very appealing itinerary this past July through the Greek islands and Türkiye.

And, I have to admit, even at full capacity, Oceania delivered a true small-ship experience, with bonuses that usually only larger ships can offer. Those included multiple gourmet dining options, an almost overwhelming choice of excursions, live entertainment, and plenty of indoor and outdoor spaces to socialize or tuck away. And all within a casually elegant, adult-focused, intimate atmosphere.

Most importantly, there was never a need to play that annoying game of running out early to claim a pool lounger. There was also plenty of availability for last-minute spa treatments and, for those of us who are bad at planning ahead, a wide range of adventurous, small-group, and more traditional excursions (for an added fee) that we could book up to the 11th hour.

The writer managed to avoid the crowds in Santorini by opting for an early morning excursion that had her already leaving crowded Oia by 10:30 a.m., when more visitors starting coming in.

Courtesy of Dawid Tkocz/Unsplash

The itinerary

Our 10-day sailing from Athens to Istanbul had daily stops, starting in the popular (read crowded) islands of Santorini and Mykonos. But we managed to avoid most of the congestion with the excursions we booked through Oceania. For instance, in Santorini, we took an 8 a.m. tender boat from where we were anchored off Fira to the northern end of the island to wander through the postcard-perfect, cliffside town of Oia before it got too crowded. The streets of Oia were filling up by 10:30 in the morning, about the time we got on a coach and headed to a private wine tasting and traditional lunch back near Fira.

We skipped the crowds in Mykonos with a private boat tour that took a small group of us to explore the ruins on the island of Delos, the famed birthplace of the twin gods Apollo and Artemis and one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece. After exploring the ruins, we hopped across the bay to play in the cool waters of the Aegean Sea.

Next up: Crete and Rhodes, where the crew showed their true small-ship colors by pulling off a seamless last-minute pivot in schedules after Greek tour operators announced a countrywide, one-day strike, swapping stops in Rhodes and Bodrum, Türkiye, without even a hiccup in the excursion schedules.

From there we wandered off the big ship path, not seeing another cruise ship for the next five days, until our final stop in Istanbul.

Türkiye was truly the highlight for us. In Bodrum, we explored the 15th-century Bodrum Castle before hopping on a traditional gulet for an afternoon cruise to two coves where we swam, enjoyed a few beers, and laughed at the ice cream boat that went by.

On the Turkish island of Bozcaada, a destination mostly frequented by locals, we wandered the cobblestone streets and open-air markets before settling down on the marina to sample raki, an anise brandy similar to ouzo, and Turkish appetizers like pumpkin seed–stuffed grape leaves and “atomic” (very spicy) yogurt. In Istanbul, where we had a full day and overnight, we skipped the traditional tours and instead took a boat ride down the Bosphorus and enjoyed a relaxing final afternoon by the pool before disembarking to spend two more days on our own to explore the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, the city’s famed spice market, and Grand Bazaar.

Oceania puts a strong focus on its culinary programming with optional tours to venues such as open-air food markets like this one in Kusadasi, Türkiye.

Courtesy of Tom Hermans/Unsplash

The food and excursions

Oceania is known for its culinary focus, both on and off the ship. And while I wouldn’t dare try to verify or deny its claim to have “the finest cuisine at sea,” I would agree that it may have the finest food with none of the upcharges that have become common for specialty restaurants on cruise ships.

We had amazing pad thai at Red Ginger, a tender filet at Jacques (named after executive culinary advisor chef Jacques Pépin), perfect gnocchi at Toscana, steak and potatoes at Polo Grill, and a delicious beef bourguignon over noodles in the Grand Dining Room. More casual fare is always available at the outdoor Waves grill and the indoor-outdoor buffet-style Terrace Café, which hosted a special Greek night with a wide range of local dishes, including gyros, moussaka, hummus, fresh fish, spanakopita, and a parade of olives, lamb, and baklava.

For true foodies, there is a broad range of intimate culinary-focused excursions plus a cooking school aboard with daily classes led by two master chefs who focus on the local as well as favorites from the ship’s gourmet restaurants.

On Santorini, we sampled one of the small group excursions Oceania offers in partnership with the culinary travel company Food & Wine Trails. Our expert local guide took us to the Boutari winery, whose founder, Yiannnis Boutari, was a pioneer of the Greek wine industry. After a private tour, we sampled the wines during a traditional lunch of Greek salad, tomato fritters, and lemon chicken. Maybe I’ve been living in Albuquerque too long, but I had no idea Santorini produced a crisp, light white wine that is perfect for any meal on a hot summer day.

From Kusadasi, Türkiye, while history buffs like my husband opted for a day tour to the ancient Greek city of Ephesus and the temple of Artemis, chef instructor Stephanie Hersh, who worked for 14 years as the executive assistant to Julia Child, led a small group of us through the nearby village of Kirazli for lunch and cooking demonstrations at a small boutique hotel, Kirazli Sultan Konak. Along the way we wandered through the village, stopping to sample watermelon and cucumbers at a roadside stand.

Before sitting down to a veritable feast at the hotel, we learned more about the dishes and spices that influence local foods, such as the dried chilies used as a staple of local cuisine, tarhana soup, and had hands-on lessons in rolling stuffed grape leaves and shaping Turkish dumplings, or manti.

There is no jockeying for position around the Riviera’ s pool, where there is room enough for everyone aboard.

Built in 2012, the Riviera is one of the company’s older vessels; it was refreshed with lighter, more contemporary decor in 2022. And like its sister ships, it offers what the company markets as “the luxury of space.”

Indeed, we never had a problem finding a pool chair or a place to sit at one the bars, dining or lounge areas.

The ship has a wide range of cabin sizes, from the 2,000-square-foot owner’s suite to the 174-square-foot inside staterooms. We stayed in a 291-square-foot Concierge Level veranda stateroom, which had a seating area, private teak-floored veranda, and an oversize bathroom with a spacious shower and more drawers and cabinets than we could fill. The Concierge Level also gives you access to a private lounge stocked with snacks and coffee, as well as three free bags of laundry during the trip, garment pressing on arrival, a welcome bottle of champagne, and a complimentary in-room minibar.

In addition to six restaurants, there were several bars, including our favorite outdoor pool bar, Waves, and the piano lounge, Martinis. There were musical reviews and comedy shows in the Riviera Lounge; late night dancing at the top deck lounge, Horizons; a shopping area; small casino; large spa and fitness center; golf center; tennis court; and shuffleboard and table tennis.

With so many venues, it just never felt crowded, even with a full ship. In fact, at times, many of the public spaces felt almost empty.

We also discovered one more bonus of a larger ship: a lot more stairs to climb if you opt to avoid the elevator to help burn off those delicious meals.

To book: Itineraries vary by season. Seven-day sailings between Athens and Istanbul this fall and next year start at $1,999 per person, based on double occupancy.

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International Cruise & Ferry Review magazine was first launched in the early 1990s and since then has become a trusted and reliable source for news on the passenger shipping industry.The twice-yearly magazine covers both the cruise and ferry businesses, and provides our audience with insight into building and refurbishment, marine operations, onboard experience, ports and destinations and more. Each issue contains interviews with the industry's most influential executives, feature articles exploring the topics that matter in passenger shipping, and profiles of some of the leading destinations around the world. International Cruise & Ferry Review is the definitive resource for decision makers in the cruise and ferry industries.

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More From Forbes

5 things to know about america’s newest cruise line.

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The new cruise line launched in 2021.

Atlas Ocean Voyages has certainly made a splash with its triad of superyachts that immediately entered the Polar expedition market after the line launched its first sailing in 2021. Typically, cruise lines test out more tried-and-true destinations like the Caribbean or the Mediterranean when they start. Not so with Atlas though, which dived in “bow first” into the Antarctic market with luxury sailings at a lower price point than the competition.

That’s what set travel advisors a-flurry. They were used to selling luxury, once-in-a-lifetime dream vacations at the Poles for five digit-starting prices, a number this cruise line has slashed significantly.

These days, Atlas Ocean Voyages has expanded beyond the typical Polar trips, but to many travelers, says Chris Gray Faust, executive editor for Cruise Critic, it still remains an unknown brand.

Here are five things to know about America’s newest cruise line.

A fleet of three, and just three

Atlas Ocean Voyages has three ships, which it calls super yachts, in its fleet.

Atlas launched with World Navigator in late 2021, a ship that can hold 196 passengers (far fewer than its luxury competitors like Seabourn or Regent Seven Seas). All ships in the fleet have almost a 1-to-1 staff to guest ratio. The line has continued the same trend with World Traveller, which debuted in 2022, and its newest vessel, World Voyager. It began sailing late last year.

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Its fleet is all purpose-built expedition vessels, something that competitor lines have added after testing the marketplace, comprising Polar Category C- and Ice Class 1B-certified ships. And these aren’t the expedition ships of years past, they look more like billionaire yachts and are built to withstand environmental pressures in the same way those money makers withstand market ups and downs.

Atlas has ships in the Polar regions almost the entire year.

Atlas Ocean Voyages is the only luxury cruise line to offer Polar expeditions on almost a year-round basis with ships rotating between the Poles. It does not sail during April or October to either region. This past winter season, its entire fleet was operating expedition sailings in Antarctica. No other cruise line has doubled down in such a way.

This year, it has two of its super yachts in the Arctic. Its goal, say executives, is to take people to the polar edges of the Arctic and the Antarctic without charging what the competition does, but without missing out on the premium that such an exclusive trip would cost. That sweet spot is unique in expedition cruising.

A guest room aboard Atlas Ocean Voyages

It is also offering several fly-in options to the seventh continent so that queasy travelers do not need to endure the sometimes-rocky Drake Passage. Starting in the 2025-2026 season, the line will double the number of fly-in options.

Operating smaller cruise ships also gives it an edge in the buyout world of incentive and corporate groups that often book bucket-list vacations as a reward for employees. But, it takes time to gain a foothold in the market.

“It is always a bit of a gamble for us starting out with a cruise line we haven’t chartered previously,” says Jeff Gundvaldson, president and owner of BrandGVacations. “After completing three full-ship charters, with several more on the books, we couldn’t be happier. Our guests absolutely love the design of the ship and her cabins as well as the food and service levels.”

Smaller ships can visit niche ports that larger cruise lines cannot access.

The ships can reach the Polar regions as well as its growing roster of cultural immersion sailings through Iceland, Northern Europe, South America and the Caribbean. These yachts can squeeze into smaller ports and waterways , like the “Corinth Canal in Greece and Guadalquivir River in Spain,” according to the line’s website.

Atlas is a private company with no imminent plans to take the business public and no current plans to grow its fleet.

For now, executives say, the focus is on growing technology and online partner booking systems as well as expanding outreach to travel agents.

An epicurean focus

The grab-and-go market is complimentary and open 24 hours a day.

Its polar sailings are a mainstay of the brand, and they do not skimp on food and beverage (including a unique grab-and-go concept that is open 24 hours a day). But, it is the mid-season, Mediterranean sailings that the young line has turned into a foodie escape.

These cruises are branded “Epicurean Expeditions” and bring aboard well-known chefs and experts from notable restaurants, magazines and TV programs to interact with guests. They vary from sailing to sailing, which is one of the reasons that some travelers choose to do back-to-back itineraries to see the onboard programming and not just the ports of call.

The onboard cuisine often includes local recipes from the day's port of call.

Recent sailings have included food expert Mara Papatheodorou, contributing editor to Bon Appetit magazine, and chocolate expert Julieta Davey, also known as Mamá Cacao.

Other sailings hosted names like Top Chef Brazil winner Luciana Berry, who appears on Bravo, and Peter Campbell, who has had stints on The Food Network and a master pizza chef.

Their expertise not only provides entertainment and value to passengers, but it also helps the cruise line seek out unique experiences for its customers, too.

Many of the presentations and activities, including foodie "cookoffs" between guests take place in ... [+] the lounge.

Activities include live cooking demonstrations, guest lectures, guided port visits to local markets, culinary competitions with guidance from the onboard experts and the chance to chat one-on-one over a meal or in the bar with leaders in the food and beverage industry.

A new partnership with Academia Barilla brings its famous Chef Marcello Zaccaria, who has been personal chef to celebrities and diplomats, aboard select sailings to share everything he knows about pasta from how to cook it properly to what to pair it with during each meal.

Earlier this year, Atlas started its “Cultural Expeditions,” which it says will follow the same type of immersive experience (with onboard experts) as its culinary sailings.

Small ships, big aspirations (especially for sustainability)

The pool deck has two whirlpools and is ringed by a jogging track one deck above it.

While the three super yachts are small (fewer than 200 passengers), they offer plenty of private space with decks at the front and back of the ship for those that don’t want to sit by the main pool.

The size of a smaller ship also allows it the ability to call on niche destinations that the bigger lines cannot visit (even luxury brands like Seabourn and Silversea).

Another element that has been a part of Atlas from the start is having a zero-waste operation in the kitchens. For example, things like onion skins might be turned into onion powder used in sauces for other dishes. Ideally, each sailing would disembark with minimal fruit and vegetables remaining.

Outdoor dining offers a second restaurant option.

Historical data, like with airlines, helps the cruise line plan for the percentage of different food items to provision for a particular sailing, depending on the audience, destination or length of the cruise. This prevents waste of food items that could otherwise go bad.

Breakfast and lunch are served buffet style, and since the buffets are heated or chilled in different areas, the cruise line can share leftover dishes with staff in addition to their regular menus. This is a popular perk for cruise staff, but also helps reduce waste.

Atlas Ocean Voyages is focused on operating a sustainable cruise line.

Any food waste gets sent to the pulper, which like on other ships, reduces it to a mulch-like substance that can be used as compost. It really is a zero-waste process. Bones are the only thing that cannot be put in the pulper.

It is not just above deck where the cruise line pays attention to the environment, but below deck, too. The ships are built to respect the underwater life by using a hydro-jet propulsion system that does not disturb marine life, giving passengers the chance to follow marine migrations on some voyages. This is similar to what Celebrity uses in the Galapagos, for example.

More inclusions than expected

Drinks, meals and entertainment are all included in the cruise fare. Cruise directors do double duty ... [+] as performers on many evenings.

Since this line tends to price lower than other smaller ships, the expectation from many travel advisors was that there would be fewer inclusions, but not so says Gray Faust. Atlas includes a long list of extras for all cabins like free minibars and all-hours room service (alcohol is part of the deal), a guided culinary excursion on each sailing and prepaid gratuities. While these might vary by itinerary, the idea is that the cruise line offers more for the discerning traveler than what others might.

The addition of some shore excursions and gratuities puts it in the window of lines like Viking, which have taken the small-ship market by storm in an effort to bring a more exclusive experience to sailors.

Some activities are complimentary, but others carry a fee.

Atlas does not provide complimentary shore excursions in each port of call, however. They sell options of varying lengths and price points. On Polar expeditions, its Zodiac landings are included, but additional activities like kayaking and overnight camping are not.

Onboard entertainment is another area that may surprise. There is a theater, but it is used more for presentations rather than revue shows although live entertainment is a nightly event in the ship’s bars and lounges.

A “second guest sails free” promotion offered outside of peak Polar sailing season has proven popular as Atlas works to build its name. It end Sept. 30 although executives say another promotion will replace it.

An evolved experience

Zephyr Lounge is an outdoor deck popular throughout the day.

When the brand first launched, it had a few service hiccups. But, that does not seem to be the norm anymore, says Gray Faust.

“When Atlas launched in 2021, it positioned itself more as a top-of-the-line luxury brand, which meant it was competing with well-established cruise lines that have been providing amenities such as caviar on demand and butler service for decades. That's a high bar of entry, particularly when we've seen other companies, such as Ritz-Carlton and, soon, Four Seasons, enter that space.”

She noted occasional service hiccups, but that the line has been making strides and correcting that fairly quickly.

Atlas ships sail in the Polar regions almost all year.

Don Bucolo of EatSleepCruise.com agrees, saying that he has noticed more diverse menus, better food flavor and improved service after sailing the line for the second time.

“We were amazed how a few crew members we met on our first sailing remembered us and quickly recalled our drink orders,” says Bucolo. “That level of detail is something you rarely find on larger cruise ships.”

According to Gray Faust, the line hired key industry veterans in 2022 to help with execution.

Atlas executives say that “consistency in execution across all destinations and yachts” is the focus before adding capacity.

There is also a new loyalty program , Atlas Yacht Club, which started earlier this year. Members earn cruise discounts, onboard credits and welcome gifts based on the number of nights they sail.

Atlas yachts have numerous outdoor decks.

“Prices and value have started to build a cadre of loyal guests; meanwhile, the line has worked hard to improve its service and onboard product,” Gray Faust adds.

She praises the onboard amenities that are a standout for small expedition shops. They include things like L’Occitane toiletries in the showers with fantastic pressure and multi-head nozzles, more than one dining option each night (all included) and plentiful power outlets.

While noting great value, Bucolo’s shares that the atmosphere is more relaxed and less stuffy than other more expensive, luxury cruise lines.

Atlas specializes in expedition sailings.

Atlas Ocean Voyages seems to have tapped into a void in the cruise space where price and exclusivity meet bucket-list itineraries. Only time will tell if this strategy will work, but according to Gray Faust, the proof is in the pudding. This affordable approach to expedition luxury is something the cruise industry was missing.

Gray Faust says: “the expedition cruising landscape is more crowded than ever, but Atlas does seem to be carving out a niche for value and giving passengers an excellent trip, at an affordable price.”

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• Cruise & Ferry Review
• Spring/Summer 2022

Cruise & Ferry Review – Spring/Summer 2022

The Spring/Summer 2022 issue of Cruise & Ferry Review begins with an exclusive keynote with Carnival Corporation’s CEO Arnold Donald who explains how the organisation is overcoming adversity to steer its nine cruise brands back to success after a challenging couple of years.

There’s also a cover story with Celebrity Cruises’ Lisa Lutoff-Perlo, who outlines how the brand is coming back together after having dealt with the impact of the pandemic.

Our Cruise Business section opens with a roundtable discussion on the state of the river cruise industry, which features insights from TUI Cruises’ Chris Hackney, APT Luxury River Cruises & Tours’ Paul Melinis, CroisiEurope’s John Fair and A-ROSA’s Lucia Rowe. Other notable names in this section include P&O Cruises’ Paul Ludlow, Swan Hellenic’s Andrea Zito, American Cruise Lines’ Charles B. Robertson, SunStone Ships’ Niels-Erik Lund, Royal Caribbean International’s Ben Bouldin, Viking Cruises’ Wendy Atkin-Smith and Cruise Lines Industry Association’s Kelly Craighead.

Published in association with Interferry, our Ferry Business section opens with a commentary by Mike Corrigan, who calls for investment in shoreside electricity supply for the ferry industry. The roundtable expands on the theme of sustainability by uncovering how high-speed ferry operators Red Funnel, Uber Boat by Thames Clippers, Fire Island Ferries and San Juan Clippers plan to reduce emissions and adapt to using new fuels. In addition, Baleària’s Adolfo Utor discusses the state of the Spanish ferry market, BC Ferries’ Corrine Storey talks about operating in a safe and environmentally friendly way, and Irish Ferries’ Andrew Sheen outlines post-pandemic challenges. Strategic Partnerships’ Mary Scott Nabers highlights how federal funding is helping to drive ferry improvements across the USA, while ferry expert Michael Grey comments on the benefits of ferry travel in a post-pandemic world.

Elsewhere in the magazine are features and reports on newbuild orders , refit projects , crew recruitment , onboard entertainment , and the return of cruise ships to ports and destinations worldwide. We also have a new Featured Partners directory in our Marine Operations section, which profiles businesses that provide services to support the operational needs of cruise and ferry brands.

Plus, we also outline some of the latest updates from across the passenger shipping industry in our Marketwatch section and we share updates and perspectives from a range of key industry stakeholders. We also highlight how industry stakeholders are working together to improve the sustainability profile of passenger ships in our annual Green List .

There’s plenty more too – enjoy the issue!

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By Eleni N. Gage

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Arguably Greece’s most iconic island group, the Cyclades got their name because, if you squint, the 30-odd main islands form a circle, or kyklos , around the sacred island of Delos, birthplace of the twin gods Artemis and Apollo. In the southwestern curve of that circle sit Milos, Sifnos and Serifos, three Aegean islands that share a stark, wild beauty owing in part to the minerals that made them mining hubs well into the last century. (Mining continues on Milos, where it vies with tourism as one of the island’s main industries.)

All three also offer a number of excellent beaches, hiking paths, seafront tavernas and whitewashed hilltop villages dating to medieval times. But each island has its own flavor. Sifnos tends to attract food-focused visitors, who are drawn by the island’s culinary traditions and history. The birthplace of Nikos Tselementes, who wrote the first commercial Greek cookbooks in the early 20th century, Sifnos is home to Omega 3 , the renowned seafood-focused restaurant founded by the chef Giorgos Samoilis, who has a Ph.D. in molecular biology. Serifos is beloved by hikers and bikers, while Milos, the largest of the three (with 5,000 year-round inhabitants), draws those who crave a livelier scene and are eager to pose on the moonscape of Sarakiniko beach.

Only Milos has an airport (the flight from Athens is just 40 minutes), but each island is accessible from Athens, and from the others, by high-speed Seajet and other ferries. (The Seajet trip from Milos to Serifos takes a little over an hour; to Sifnos from Milos it’s a little over half an hour; and between Sifnos and Serifos about 20 minutes.)

Whichever you visit, it’s vital that you hop on a boat to take in the islands’ dramatic coastlines, and swim off the uninhabited islet of Polyaigos. “There are a lot of interesting rocks, so it’s like sailing through a sculptural park,” says Natassa Kalogeropoulou, a ceramist living and working on Serifos. “And you’ll swim in the best waters you’ve seen in your life.” Here, Kalogeropoulou and three other locals and longtime visitors share their favorite spots on the three islands.

The Insiders

Giorgos Atsonios, born and raised on Sifnos, moved back to his home island after studying and working in Athens. He runs Café Mosaico , a meze restaurant in the hillside village of Artemonas.

Natassa Kalogeropoulou, a ceramist, runs Kerameio , a ceramics studio, gallery and workshop on the island of Serifos.

Lito Karakostanoglou, the Athens-based jewelry designer behind Lito Fine Jewelry , has been visiting the southwestern Cyclades for 15 years.

Alexandra Kehayoglou, the Greek-Argentine textile artist , first came to Milos in 2015. She and her husband, the artist José Huidobro, will be showing “Waiting for Venus,” a new series of works, at Tria Pigadia beach on Milos in September.

Illustrations by Richard Pedaline

“ The villas at Skinopi Lodge , near the site of an ancient obsidian mine overlooking the bay of Milos, are amazing. The owner, Nausika Georgiadou, has a deep love for the nature of Milos. And we saw our first dolphin on the island off the coast here, so it’s a special place for us.” (Rooms from about $500 a night)

“There’s a new hotel called Volcano Luxury Suites , next to Palaiochori beach on Milos. The same family has a restaurant called Sirocco where they cook the food in the volcanic sand. All the generations work there. You can see the papou , the grandpa, who is the owner, going into the ocean with a little boat.” (Rooms from about $220 a night) — Alexandra Kehayoglou

“ Rizes hotel has a fantastic view of Chora, Serifos’s capital, where the houses were built [on a hill] to form a big wall to protect the people from the pirates who used to ransack the islands.” (Rooms from about $160 a night)

“The minimalist, modern architecture of the Homa villas, above Vagia, one of the nicest beaches on Serifos, is also very impressive.” (Rooms from about $670 a night) And on that same beach is the Coco-Mat hotel, occupying the site of an old mining camp, which tries to be very eco-friendly and close to nature.” (Rooms from about $360 a night) — Natassa Kalogeropoulou

“Verina is a small company that owns three hotels on Sifnos; all of them are good. One of them, Verina Astra , is on a hill on the way to Poulati, which is one of the best places to swim, below the Panagia Poulati monastery. It’s only rocks — there’s nothing else there. You have to go when the sea is calm; if the wind is strong from the north it can be dangerous. But the spot is really nice.” ( Rooms from about $220 a night) — Giorgos Atsonios

Eat and Drink

“On Milos, Medusa is above the bay in Mandrakia, and you can see the beginning of Sarakiniko beach and all these white rocks. They have a small menu but everything is amazing. Some of the food is cooked by the owner’s mother. I especially like the marinated anchovies.

“ Embourios is a local restaurant a half-hour drive from Milos’s main port, Adamas, so they give you what they have. Sometimes it’s goat, produce from their own vegetable garden or, if they go fishing, some barbounia, small red mullet. Whatever they have, they put on the menu. And you can see the whole [northern] coast of Milos.” — A.K.

“On the northern side of Serifos is Sykamia beach, with To Akrogiali tou Vitou, also known as Anna’s Taverna. It’s right on the shore, where two hiking paths meet, and most of the vegetables are grown in the garden beside it. There are some great, hidden swimming spots nearby at Skala beach.” — Lito Karakostanoglou

“Serifos has a nice Thai restaurant, Blue Bamboo , in a dry riverbed in Livadi. You can hear the bamboo rustling in the breeze, and the barman makes great cocktails. In Serifos’s Chora, I like Marathoriza . The woman who cooks is from Serifos and knows the traditional cuisine — fennel pie served with honey; fried potatoes; lamb with sage; and chickpeas in a clay pot, which is one of the most famous local dishes.

“Another nice place in Chora, right on the square, is Seriani Restobar ; I get the risotto with shrimp and mussels or the rooster with noodles. And there’s a great cocktail bar, Thidira Tap Bar . My favorite drink there is the London Mule: gin, lime and ginger beer.” — N.K.

“On Seralia bay, under Kastro village on Sifnos, Cantina is a must for local cuisine paired with wines from the wider Balkans. They have a five-year-long insistence on a minimal waste culture. I also love its sister restaurant, Pelicanos , on Faros beach, for all-day cocktails, oysters, lunch and dinner. [The chef Giorgos Samoilis, formerly of Omega 3, now oversees the kitchen at both Cantina and Pelicanos.]

“ Manolis Taverna on Sifnos’s Vathi Beach serves perfectly cooked local dishes on the beachfront with a variety of wines carefully selected by its sommelier. On Sundays I never miss the traditional chickpea soup (revithada) baked overnight in a wood-fired oven.” — L.K.

“ Iliovasilema, or Sunset, is a family-owned restaurant in Troulaki, Sifnos, that uses produce from its own farm. My favorite dish is almyro kataifi, a savory shredded-wheat pastry with cheese and pastourma, a cured meat.

“ Kitrino Podilato , or Yellow Bicycle, is a local place for pastry in Artemonas. It has a charming terrace to spend the afternoon on — the Greek afternoon, after 6 p.m. My favorite dessert is the crème brûlée, but there’s also a nice profiterole.” — G.A.

“In Chora on Serifos, I like Fleva . They have leather bags [by the designer Eleanna Katsira] that are stylish and very well made.“In the main port of Livadi on Serifos there’s a lovely jewelry shop, Fe , named for the chemical symbol for iron. In the port, the shopping area isn’t that big but it’s very interesting because all the shop owners spend the winter trying to find special things, with good fabrics or made by Greek artists.” — N.K.

“You can find a shop with pottery in almost any village on Sifnos. Apostolidis Ceramics , on the way from the port [Kamares] to Apollonia, has also started giving tours and will let you try to throw pots yourself.” — G.A.

“In the main port of Adamas, I always buy evil-eye amulets and items made out of obsidian, a magical black stone that keeps dark energies away; Milos was mined for obsidian in ancient times.” — A.K.

“ Lembesis Ceramics on Sifnos creates works of art. They still reproduce folkloric designs by the late grandmother of the family on plates, cups and salad bowls that you’ll definitely want to take home.” — L.K.

“There’s a winery on Serifos, Chrysoloras , that has excellent wines. Visit during sunset. The owner serves the wine they produce with snacks from the island — sometimes local cheeses, olives, or tomatoes.” — N.K .

“Theodorou in Artemonas, on Sifnos, has probably been baking for a hundred years. They make pasteli, a honey cookie with sesame you can dip in your coffee, and amygdalota, the sweet almond cookies the island is known for. I use some handmade pieces from Sifnos Stoneware in my kitchen at the cafe; I like the designs and they’re very, very durable. They’re made of stoneware, which is fired at a higher temperature than other ceramics, so it’s very strong” — G.A.

“The Ancient Theater of Milos , overlooking the sea, is a powerful place to stand and imagine the past. It’s very close to where they found the Venus de Milo, Aphrodite. From there, you can hike down to Klima, with all the white boathouses with their colorful doors, carved out of the rocks. Astakas Cafe , on the shore, i s also very nice.” — A.K.

“Firiplaka is one of Milos’s most beautiful beaches. But there are so many. Milos is actually divided into two sides. The east side is where everything happens, and the west side is protected. No one is allowed to develop it; there’s quite a lot of mining but no hotels. The roads are dirt roads, but you can go with a Jeep or four-wheel-drive vehicle and reach stunning Triades beach, all the way to the west.

“Also take a boat trip. On Milos, you can go to Kleftiko and see the sea caves that were pirates’ hiding places or sail all the way to the uninhabited island of Polyaigos. Or you can take the little ferry to the island of Kimolos.” — A.K.

“There are a lot of hiking paths on Serifos. The easiest hike is to start in Chora and follow the steps that lead to Livadi. But I recommend the path from the village of Kallitsos toward Chora because the view is fantastic. Do it early in the morning to see the sunrise. An easy but inspiring walk starts in the coastal village of Megalo Livadi and leads to the beach. But when you’re hiking, never enter any hole in the mountain: These are from the old mines, and they’re dangerous, there are falling rocks. You can stand outside, but don’t enter the mines.” — N.K.

“Every summer I take an [eight-hour day] cruise to Polyaigos between Sifnos and Milos, where the color of the water is unbelievable. Aegeas , an old fishing boat turned into a cruise ship, takes you there, and while you’re swimming, the crew prepares food for you.

“My favorite places to swim on Sifnos are Poulati and Fassolou or Glyfo in the village of Faros. But if you want to spend more time, Cheronissos, on the north part of the island, is a small fishing village with two restaurants on the beach, Ammoudia and Cheronissos. Both have good seafood and typical Greek fare. If you’re with your family, the kids can play on the little beach while you’re at the restaurant.

“I bike a lot. There are bike paths on the island, and there’s a company called Sifnos Bike Experience that rents electric bikes and also does guided tours.” — G.A.

“Don’t miss the hiking trail from Apollonia to Panagia Toso Nero, with a panoramic view and a variety of cultural sites. It also passes small creeks, olive groves and terraced slopes, old fields and abandoned huts. And try to take part in a traditional fete, called a panigiri here. The one for Prophet Elias takes place in July. It begins with an evening mass and is followed by a seated dinner, music and dancing. Dinner is prepared by locals.” — L.K.

Practical Matters

“The best time to come to Milos is spring, when the fields blossom with flowers and it’s magical. That’s my favorite time to go and capture it because I know it fades quickly and then the heat comes.” [Kehayoglou’s textile “ Meadow ,” now on exhibit in Sweden, is inspired by spring in Milos.] — A.K .

“Obviously, I’d suggest avoiding August. There are too many people and traffic jams. Spring and autumn are the best seasons to come — less crowded than summer and less windy.” — N.K.

“Every year, 40 days after Easter, Sifnos has the festival of the name day of Panagia Chrysopigi, Our Lady of the Golden Spring, the protector of the island. A boat comes from Athens, stops at the port of Kamares to pick up the icon that belongs to the monastery of Chrysopigi and delivers it to the church there, which is the symbol of the island. It’s a big ceremony for the island.” — G.A.

These interviews have been edited and condensed.

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