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16 tips for planning your trip to the Amalfi Coast

Apr 2, 2022 • 6 min read

Italy's Amalfi Coast lures visitors from around the world © MNStudio / Shutterstock

The vertiginous and craggy Amalfi Coast and its three island outposts of Capri, Ischia and Procida have been a magnet for visitors since Roman times.

Hemmed in by high mountains, the coastal towns on this seafront stretch are physically unspoiled, and they retain an evergreen appeal despite the inevitable tour groups. If you avoid high summer, when visitors arrive in peak numbers, a trip here will be a scenic, artistic and culinary delight.

From where to visit and when to enjoy the best weather to how to get around, here’s all you need to know as you plan your fantasy trip to the Amalfi Coast.

Best places to visit on the Amalfi Coast

Feel the timeless pull of sorrento.

A small resort with a big reputation, Sorrento is a town of lemons, high-pedigree hotels and plunging cliffs that cut through the heart of its historical core. Tourism has a long history here: Sorrento was a compulsory stop on the 19th-century “Grand Tour,” interest in the town having first been sparked by the poet Byron. A long line of vacationing literary geniuses followed in his footsteps to take the warm Sorrentine air. The romance still persists.

Savor the photogenic drama of Positano

Dramatic, deluxe and more than a little dashing, Positano is the Amalfi Coast’s front-cover splash, with vertiginous houses tumbling down to the sea in a cascade of sun-bleached peach, pink and terracotta. No less photo-worthy are its steep streets and steps, flanked by wisteria-draped hotels, smart restaurants and fashionable retailers.

Visit Capri for timeless and beautiful luxury

Capri is beautiful – seriously beautiful. Steep cliffs rise majestically from an impossibly blue sea; elegant villas drip with wisteria and bougainvillea; and even the trees seem to be carefully manicured. Long a preserve of celebrities and the super-rich, this small, precipitous island off the west end of the Sorrento Peninsula has a tangibly deluxe feel.

Enjoy some of Europe’s best hotels at Ravello

A hilltop garden paradise, Ravello is famous for its music festival and incomparably swish hotels. Founded in the 5th century as a sanctuary from barbarian invaders fresh from sacking Rome, this lofty Amalfi town was built, in contrast to other Amalfi settlements, at the top of a hill rather than down on the coast. It’s second only to Positano in its style and glamour.

Get a taste of ancient life at Pompeii

The ruins of Pompeii are a veritable time machine, hurling visitors back to the time of emperors and Latin chatter. Here, time remains paused at 79 CE, the city's frescoed homes, businesses and baths still waiting for their occupants to return. Few archaeological sites offer such an intimate connection to the past, and few are as deeply haunting and evocative.

When to go to the Amalfi Coast

On the Amalfi Coast (as everywhere), picking the perfect time to visit makes any trip better. Here’s a seasonal breakdown of what it’s like to visit the Amalfi Coast in each season.

Expect wildflowers and fewer crowds in spring

Spring is wonderful in this region, as swaths of bright wildflowers dot the landscape. June generally delivers summer heat without the August crowds and traffic.

Summer is peak season for culture – and crowds

This is a great time for cultural events, but high summer sees narrow coastal roads clogged, soaring temperatures and the occasional frayed temper. It’s best to avoid July and August, which is the month that many Italians take for their annual vacations.

Consider fall for optimal hiking and swimming

You can find decent deals on accommodations in fall after school starts and many people are back to work. It’s a great time for hiking and swimming, as the weather and water remain pleasantly temperate. Bountiful seasonal produce includes mushrooms, black truffles and chestnuts.

Things get sleepy come winter

Many hotels, restaurants and attractions are firmly closed from November until Easter. Boat and ferry services are limited.

When is the best time to go to Italy?

Where to stay on the Amalfi Coast

The Italian region of Campania has been looking after visitors for centuries. Competition is fierce, and standards of service are high. Whether you’re honeymooning or backpacking, you’re likely to find a warm welcome, enhanced by a room decked out with local tiles and maybe even a lush garden.

With five days, you can take in the highlights of the Amalfi Coast. Consider a night or two on the volcanic garden island of Ischia , then spending the rest of your time at one of the coastal gems – Sorrento, Positano or Amalfi – with day trips to explore the splendors of Pompeii, Ravello’s gardens and some mountain scenery. At any time of year, it’s best to book ahead; bear in mind that demand for rooms is sky high in the summer.

The region does high-end tourism like nowhere else. Some of our favorite posh accommodation options include the venerable Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria in Sorrento and Capri’s opulent Grand Hotel Quisisana . Midrange B&Bs also excel: we’ve happily laid our heads at Casa Giovanni da Procida , La Fenice in Positano and hillside Ercole di Amalfi . There are some great hostel and camping options too: try Positano’s Hostel Brikette or beachside Camping Mirage on Ischia.

Best things to do on the Amalfi Coast

Nothing beats renting a boat.

Nothing makes you feel more like a millionaire than having your own boat, even if it’s just for a couple of hours. Try Banana Sport if you’d like to make a sea circuit of Capri.

Go swimming in the azure Mediterranean

From Ischia’s thermal beaches to Positano’s Spiaggia di Fornillo, the Amalfi Coast is perfect for water babies. Just be careful how deep you dip your toes into the hot spring at Baia di Sorgeto  – the water is thermally heated.

Walk the Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei)

You need strong legs and a head for heights to walk the legendary Path of the Gods , which offers dizzying sea views.

Feast on just-caught seafood

You’ll find spaghetti alle vongole (with fresh clams) on practically every menu in the region. Another seafood special is tuna, best eaten in Cetara , which hosts an annual tuna festival.

How to get to and around the Amalfi Coast

While most visitors fly into Naples , taking an overnight train is a romantic and eco-friendly alternative from many European cities. 

Driving through the region can be a hectic experience. It’s best to get around by public transport or hiring a driver –  unless you have a penchant for zigzag bends, cavalier passing and buses swinging at you from the opposite direction.  A network of ferries connects the coastal towns along the Amalfi Coast with Salerno, Sorrento and Capri. Connections to Naples, Ischia and Procida can be made via Sorrento or Capri.

The Circumvesuviana train line connects Naples with Herculaneum, Pompeii and Sorrento – it’s scruffy but fairly efficient and extremely cheap. As an alternative, take the Campania Express train. It is a bit more expensive and runs less frequently, but as it stops only in Naples, Herculaneum, Pompeii and Sorrento it makes for a much more pleasant journey. Nipping up and down the coast, circling Ischia and linking Capri’s towns, buses are a bargain – although some travelers might find the local driving style and crowds a little hard to stomach.

You might also like: Valleys, villages and vertiginous views: the Amalfi Coast's best hikes Forget Capri: the undiscovered island of Procida awaits Why Trieste will be Italy’s next big destination

This article was first published May 2019 and updated April 2022

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Little-known secrets of the Amalfi Coast

Ridiculously stunning coastline? Check. Picturesque towns? Also present. Fresh, handmade pasta and creamy gelato? Si, naturalmente. If you’re in search of the good life, Italy’s Amalfi Coast is where you’ll find it.

Days spent here become things of magic as you start to wonder – somewhere between your second and third Campari – if this might just be the most beautiful place on Earth. The only thing which may dampen your appraisal is a gnawing sense that you’re not experiencing the destination at its most authentic; that, perhaps, you’re getting the shiny tourist version while the locals are elsewhere, having more fun. Well the good news is you’ve come to the right place because we’re about to give you the know-how you need to make the most of this spectacular spot, one local secret at a time.

These days the area is connected by the 25 mile-long Strada Satale 163, a spectacular piece of bitumen that takes 1000 curly bends around the iconic coastline, passing through deep gorges, along high cliffs, between olive groves and beside towns so pretty you’ll want to hang photos of them in your living room. All the while the aquamarine water sits out to one side, each of the region’s 100 beaches bordered by colorful umbrellas and leathery-looking locals working on their tans.

So yes, if you were wondering, this is one of the world’s most beautiful stretches of road. The only problem is it’s also very narrow and traffic jams up easily thanks to the high number of one-car-at-a-time hairpin bends. One way to avoid this is to visit outside of peak season, which takes place in July and August. Another way is to move between the towns on foot, following the very same paths the locals used to take before the road was built in 1852.

RELATED: EXPLORE AMALFI BY FOOT ON THIS STUNNING 8-DAY TOUR

The walk from the town of Amalfi to Pontone and the Ferriere Valley is a truly wonderful way to explore the area’s hinterland and see a side of the region not many visitors experience. The Ferriere Valley is lush, green and full of fresh water streams which offer some of the most secluded swims in the region. Pontone is also a great spot to find yourself, its 225-meter elevation providing spectacular views down to the coast and its one and only restaurant serving up long lunches worth writing home about.

The other track we feel we need to mention is Sentiero delgi Dei or Path of the Gods, which traverses seven miles between Bomerano and Positano . As well as taking you through beautiful gorges and past vineyards and orchards, the path gives you the most breathtaking panorama on the whole Amalfi Coast, positioning you so you can see all the way out to the isle of Capri.

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Before you fill your water bottle and put on your joggers, we should warn you that the trails can be tough going thanks to the area’s mountainous landscape. But take it from us: any steep climb can be overcome when there’s mouthwatering Italian food waiting for you at the other end.

And boy, is there a lot of salivating to be done on the Amalfi Coast . As well as gelatarias, traditional pizza shops and delicatessens bursting with balls of fresh buffalo mozzarella and salty salami, there’s an abundance of exceptional restaurants to enjoy, all without breaking the bank. The general rule for finding where the locals eat – and avoiding tourist prices in the process – is heading out of the towns’ main squares, even just by a few hundred meters.

The colorful consequence of venturing off the beaten track

In Amalfi, if you follow the main street up away from the beach to where the crowd thins out, you’ll come across Trattoria Dei Cartari, where local owner Antonio serves up some of the best seafood and pasta alla genovese you’ll find. A little further up on the other side of the street you’ll come across Ristorante Il Mullino, a family-run gem of a place that also serves home-made limoncello, the region’s famous citrus liqueur.

RELATED: 6 CITIES IN ITALY TO VISIT BEFORE EVERYONE ELSE DOES

In Ravello , a criminally beautiful mountain-side town which sits well above the hustle and bustle of the coastal strip, try Cumpà Cosimo, where you can enjoy a quintet of homemade pasta dishes for €15. Yes, that’s four different types of carby goodness, lovingly made by Nonna for less than a 20.

View from Villa Rufolo gardens in Ravello

Back down beside the sea in Minori you’ll find sweet haven Salvatore de Riso, where you can enjoy ridiculously creamy gelato and the finest pastries on the coast. We strongly recommend going all out and getting both the creamy delizie di limone and deliciously moreish ricotta and pear tart.

While you’re in town you should also take the time to taste-test the freshly made pasta at Ristorante Giardiniello, especially the fresh scialatelli which is a thick local version of the better-known fettuccini.

RELATED: 7 UNIQUE ITALIAN DISHES TO TRY, BY REGION

There are a number of restaurants along the coast that can only be reached by boat which, in our humble opinion, is kind of cool. By far the best of these (and the one where you’re likely to find all the locals on a sunny day) is Da Adolfo, which sits in a little cove to the east of Positano. Look for the boat with the big red fish at the town’s bustling wharf and jump on, preparing yourself for the relaxed atmosphere and gastronomic glory of the restaurant, which looks almost shack-like from outside. Obviously seafood is the star but pescaphobes can enjoy themselves too, happily munching away on freshly-made pastas and home-cooked desserts.

While the scenery and the food are undoubtedly highlights of the Amalfi Coast, the local culture is also something worth exploring. Like most Italians, Amalfi locals enjoy late starts, siestas and sunset aperitifs; something we’re sure you’ll be able to get on board with. During the summer months, chances are you’ll find them sprawled on the glorious beaches between the time of their first coffee right up until the sun sets.

RELATED: WHY THE AMALFI COAST IS ONE OF EUROPE’S HOTTEST SAILING DESTINATIONS

Praiano’s Cala della Gavitella is a particular local favorite, thanks to the fact it enjoys full sunlight all day long. You’ll never have to move spots or change your angle to ensure an even tan and, if you do feel like swimming you have the choice of the open ocean or Fontana dell’Altare, a stunning natural swimming pool nestled at the mouth of a cave. Once the sun starts to dip, the best place for a relaxed apertivo is Gran Caffé in Amalfi which makes the most of its ideal cliffside location with a perfectly curated drinks list. This is the place we mentioned earlier, where you’ll enjoy multiple Camparis and decide that this really must be the most beautiful place on earth.

Dreaming of the Amalfi Coast? Check out Italy’s coastline on this dazzling 8-day small group tour.

Want to see Amalfi, but by boat? This beautiful 7-day cruise should do the trick. 

Image Credits (top to bottom): Intrepid Travel x2, iStock x3, Da Adolfo Facebook Page

Feeling inspired?

Kirsty Fanton

Like 99% of other humans, Kirsty loves to travel and has devoted ample amounts of time and money to developing this hobby. On a more personal level, she loves to write, tries to dance and will do almost anything for ice-cream.

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The best things to do on the Amalfi Coast

Undeniably one of the most spectacular and dramatic stretches of coastline in the world, the celebrated Amalfi Coast pulls in millions of visitors from across the globe each year, all of them attracted by a heady, irresistible mix of astonishing scenery, exclusive hotels, superb food, endless expanses of shimmering blue sea and a frisson of old-world glamour. There’s plenty to see and do, too, with activities ranging from cooking classes and wine tastings to hikes, day trips to Capri and Salerno and visits further afield to the world-class archaeological sites at Herculaneum and Paestum.

Moving around is a huge problem in high season and these days, the SS163 Amalfi Coast Drive is as famous for its crawling, bumper-to-bumper traffic as it is for its Instagram-perfect scenery. Visit off-season ( April and October are perfect) and move around by boat wherever possible; there are good links between Salerno and the principal coastal towns .

Drive the road of a thousand bends

Or, better still, get someone else to drive for you. The legendary SS163 Amalfi Coast Drive is a white knuckle ride that, in its 60-odd kilometre length from Positano to Vietri-sul-Mare to the east, weaves in and out of deep gorges and slices through whitewashed villages, lemon and olive groves, all to the backdrop of the shimmering sea. But if you are concentrating on driving, you won’t see anything, so either hire a car with a driver or hop on one of the big SITA buses so you can just sit back and enjoy.

Visit Positano

Positano is crammed with tourists in high season, but it is still achingly pretty, its pastel-hued houses tumbling down the cliffside and strung out along the beach like a film set. There’s not a lot to do except wander around the steep, stepped lanes lined with tiny shops selling flowing linen garments and bejewelled sandals, or hang out on smart hotel terraces sipping champagne (my favourite is Aldo’s Bar at the Sirenuse ). Hire a boat for trips along the rocky coast or to the Li Galli islands, and don’t miss a visit to the Roman Villa.

Dip into Positano’s ancient past

Only open to the public since 2018, Positano’s Roman Villa lies several metres under the church of Santa Maria Assunta – it was buried in the same 79AD eruption of Vesuvius that devastated Pompeii. For now, only one room is on view, but what a room! The walls of the triclinium (dining room) are covered with remarkably well-preserved and detailed paintings in a vivid riot of Pompeiian red, blue, green and rich ochre. Access is via transparent walkways suspended over the room; the ticket includes the small but interesting Archeological Museum.

Website: marpositano.it

Enjoy peaceful Praiano

A few photogenic bends in the road just east of over-crowded Positano lies the sprawling, peaceful village of Praiano. With several good restaurants and hotels, it makes a good, low-key base for exploring the coast. Sip a cappuccino at Bar Sole on the main street, explore the steep, quiet lanes and visit the studio of quirky ceramicist Paolo Sandulli , housed in an ancient watchtower. Time for a dip? Steep steps lead down to La Gavitella beach; grab a sunbed at the super-cool One Fire beach club and stick around for a sunset Campari Spritz.

CNT Editors

Charley Ward

Olivia Morelli

Arati Menon

Revel in aristocratic Ravello

Set on a bluff far removed from the craziness below, Ravello is the lofty aristocrat of the Amalfi Coast. Artists, writers and musicians have been attracted by its dreamy gardens and knock-out views for centuries, and it is still a hugely atmospheric place, especially if you stay the night. Visit the gardens of Villa Rufolo (which inspired Wagner to write Parsifal) and Villa Cimbrone with its celebrated belvedere and admire the serene 11 th -century duomo and its two ancient pulpits: one sports a mosaic showing Jonah being gobbled by the whale.

Channel Greto Garbo at Villa Cimbrone

Greta Garbo and her lover, the conductor Leopold Stokowski, famously holed up in Villa Cimbrone in 1938, and you can see why. It is a magical place – most visitors head straight for the celebrated Terrace of Infinity, from where the views stretch for miles, but the gardens themselves are glorious, the pine-shaded walkways lined with roses, camellias and scented wisteria. The villa is now a five-star hotel; guests have after-hours access to the gardens, which is almost worth the eye-watering bill at the end. Website: hotelvillacimbrone.com

Spend the day in Amalfi

Amalfi was a glorious maritime republic with 70,000 inhabitants; today, tourists notwithstanding, it’s a pretty resort fringed by lemon trees, its tumble of whitewashed buildings clinging to the sides of a deep gorge. Visit the magnificent Norman-Arab striped cathedral and its Moorish cloister and the Museo della Carta to learn about the history of paper-making and wander the ancient covered lanes that lead towards the Valle dei Mulini. Café Pansa, in the main square, serves melting pastries while Lido Azzurro on the beach, is the place to head for at lunchtime.

Shop for ceramics in Vietri sul Mare

They’ve been making pottery in Vietri-sul-Mare since Roman times, and today it is famous worldwide for the production of the colourful majolica ceramics that you see all over the buildings – both inside and out – in these parts. Visit the church of San Giovanni Batista with its tiled dome and wander the atmospheric lanes of the old town where every other shop sells the stuff, but for purchases (including keenly priced seconds), head to Solimena’s Gaudi-esque factory just outside the centre. Vietri has a good beach for summer visits, too.

Wine tasting and lunch in the hills

The wine scene in these parts has come leaps and bounds in the past 20 years against all odds, with near-vertical terraces presenting particular challenges to winemakers. To learn more about the local grape varieties and how makers overcame the logistical challenges (such as terraces being accessible only by foot), book a tasting tour followed by a farmhouse lunch with abundant wine at Gaetano Bove’s delightful Tenuta di San Francesco, way up in the hills at Tramonti. Website: vinitenutasanfrancesco.com

Enjoy a fishy feast in Cetara

The weathered old fishing village of Cetara offers a glimpse of what the area must have looked and felt like before the crowds moved in. Home to the only working fishing fleet on the coast, it is famous for producing salted anchovies and their by-product ‘colatura’. You can try this salty, umami condiment mixed with olive oil and garlic slathered on a plate of steaming linguini at one of several good restaurants; our favourite is Acquapazza , near the quayside.

Learn about lemons

Much of the steep, terraced farmland in these parts is planted with lemon trees. The  limone sfusato  (large, juicy, with a thick pith and a fragrant skin full of essential oils) is unique to the Amalfi area, and the Aceto family have been cultivating this and other varieties here since 1825. Dig deep into their citrussy world by signing up for a tour of their organic farm, or book a cooking lesson to learn about how the fruit is picked and used in some of the most delicious local dishes. Website: amalfilemonexperience.it

Stroll around Capri

Crowds aside,  Capri  is a tantalisingly beautiful island still beloved by the international jet-set for its fabulous hotels, chic restaurants and echoes of La Dolce Vita. Go for the day or, even better, stay overnight. Hang out on the café terraces of the glamorous piazzetta, mooch around the designer boutiques, visit Axel Munthe’s Villa San Michele and Tiberius’s clifftop Villa Jovis and hop into an open-topped taxi to explore quiet Anacapri. For swimming, sunbathing and lunch,  La Fontelina  beach club is the place to be.

Dance until dawn on the beach

Occupying a huge rocky cavern under an ancient watchtower at the eastern end of Positano’s beach, and with a dancefloor that looks straight onto the water, Music on the Rocks was opened in 1972 and is the only proper club on the coast. Dine before you take to the dance floor at either gourmet Rada with its sea-facing terrace or with sand in your toes at the more casual Rada Beach. The rooftop Flybar offers live jazz for after-dinner chilling. It's open from April until October. Website: musicontherocks.it ;  radapositano.it

Explore Salerno, one of the region’s unsung gems

A gritty, industrial port city with a futuristic shipping terminal built by Zaha Hadid, buzzing Salerno has a long, attractive seafront promenade and an ancient hilltop castle. It hides many gems within its centro storico, including a magnificent 11th-century Duomo, several interesting museums and a network of old streets lined with medieval buildings hiding interesting shops and neighbourhood trattorias. Catch the ferry from Positano or Amalfi and book into contemporary  Casamare  (just back from the waterfront) for a fishy lunch.

Take a day trip to ancient Paestum

The three great Doric temples at Paestum were built in the 5th-4th centuries BC and are among the best-preserved of their kind outside Greece. In spring, the sight of these magnificent buildings rising from the low-lying site surrounded by wildflowers is unforgettable. Leave time for the wonderful Archeological Museum, which houses the iconic Diver (a 5th-century tomb painting) among its many treasures. The site lies over an hour's drive from Amalfi and you can stock up on the best mozzarella in the world en route at  Tenuta Vannulo . Website: museopaestum.cultura.gov.it

Sign up for a cooking class in Montepertuso

Head up to the village of Montepertuso above Positano to learn about the local, rustic cooking. Family-run restaurant La Tagliata hosts cooking classes based on simple local recipes, using fresh and in-season produce. Ingredients for the day’s menu are gathered from the vegetable garden before guests get stuck into rolling fresh pasta, baking the perfect melanzane alla parmigiana and whipping up a textbook tiramisu (the wine flows too, of course). As a finale, your lunch is served on the panoramic terrace.

Take a boat trip along the coast

Forget the grinding traffic on the SS163; the best way to explore the contorted Costiera is by boat. There’s so much you can’t see from the road: towering sea cliffs and magnificent  villas  suspended above the water, Saracen watchtowers, handkerchief-sized  beaches  and underwater sea caves. Pull ashore for lunch at a waterside trattoria along the way:  Ippocampo  at Conca dei Marini is a safe bet. Based in Positano, Poesea has a fleet of boats with skippers to rent, from a traditional wooden ‘gozzo’ for puttering along the coast to much faster motor launches for trips to Capri. Website: poeseaboats.com

Hike along the Sentiero degli Dei footpath

You must have a good head for heights to tackle the celebrated Footpath of the Gods. Running along a ridge atop the Lattari mountains far above the coast, the five- to six-hour route runs between Positano and the village of Bomerano, although you can cut it short by finishing at Nocelle. There are many steps to be negotiated (1,700 on the final descent) along with sheer drops on either side in certain places, but the reward is unparalleled views. Wear proper walking boots, take a hat and plenty of water and avoid the midday sun.

Visit Ancient Herculaneum

Compared to Pompeii, the archaeological site of Herculaneum is much smaller and arguably better-preserved thanks to the particular quality of pyroclastic material that rained down on its 5,000 inhabitants in AD79. Most of the 2nd-century BC resort still lies buried beneath modern Ercolano, but the part that has been excavated is spectacular to behold. Wander along ancient streets marked with deep grooves worn by chariot wheels: highlights include the House of the Deer, the Central Baths, the House of Neptune and Aphrodite and the celebrated Villa dei Papiri. Website: ercolano.beniculturali.it

Stop by sunny Sorrento

Yes, there are many tourists, but Sorrento is a pretty, year-round resort set on steep cliffs with magnificent views over the Bay of Naples and a hydrofoil hop from Positano. After a cappuccino in Piazza Tasso, explore the shops in the old town selling limoncello, leather, and ceramics. Pop into the cathedral and the famous arched Chiostro del Paradiso before heading down to charming Marina Grande for a fishy fritto misto on the quayside. Suitably restored, you are ready to tackle the Museo della Tarsilegnea, documenting the history of the intricate knitted intarsia work for which the town is famous.

Visit an Emerald Grotto

The Amalfi Coast has its very own grotto (green rather than Capri’s blue), located just east of the Vallone di Furore. Catch the lift down the sheer cliffside from the main road to a watery cave filled with giant stalagmites and stalactites before climbing aboard a small rowing boat to admire the intense, iridescent blue-green light (at its best between 1 and 3pm) that filters from an underwater crevice. Alternatively, hop on one of the many boats that offer grotto tours from Amalfi. Website : positano.com

Catch a concert – the Ravello Festival

Founded in 1953, the annual Ravello festival hosts a series of concerts in July and August featuring an international line-up of musicians, both classical and jazz. These are held in various venues, but the most spectacular is the Belvedere of Villa Rufolo where a huge stage is erected over the cliffs, seemingly suspended between sea and sky. Try to catch one of the ‘Concerti all’Alba’ (dawn concerts); the experience of listening to music to a backdrop of the sun rising over the coast is magical. Website: ravellofestival.info

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• WORLD HERITAGE

Get Lost on Italy's Sun-Kissed Mediterranean Coast

Quaint villages and enchanting views have drawn people to this stunning coast for centuries.

Italy's Amalfi Coast boasts a classic Mediterranean landscape, a sensual blend of both natural and cultural wonders. The breathtaking terrain includes dramatic coastline topography scattered with terraced vineyards, orchards, and pastures—often with enchanting views of the vibrant waters below.

Kind climate, abundant resources, and natural beauty have drawn people to this coast for many centuries, and the Greeks, Romans, Normans, Saracens, Arab-Sicilians, and many others have left their mark. Amalfi communities often cluster along cliffs, their terraces blending into the rock to add their own picturesque charm to the natural beauty of the coast. Upon closer inspection, towns like Amalfi and Ravello are home to many examples of artistic and architectural excellence—not a surprise, since this stretch of the Sorrento Peninsula has long attracted famous artists of all stripes.

Amalfi itself thrives as a picturesque tourist center but in the 11th and 12th centuries the city centered the Amalfi Maritime Republic and was a naval power to be reckoned with throughout the Mediterranean. Amalfi’s ports also saw extensive trade with North Africa, and the city retains cloisters of Arab-Sicilian architecture throughout, as well as the Arsenale—a partially preserved medieval shipyard from a glorious era.

In Paestum, columned temples to Poseidon, Hera, and Athena stand in what was, from the seventh century B.C., the Greek city of Poseidonia. These breathtaking structures are among the best preserved of their kind to be found anywhere in the world.

Until the 1800s the coast’s steep terrain meant that overland access to the region was possible only by mule. While many oases of quiet can still be found here, particularly away from tourist centers, the Amalfi Coast has changed irreversibly since then. But echoes of far more distant eras remain, including ancient cathedrals, gardens, and Roman villas like Anacapri’s Villa di Damecuta, possibly built by Tiberius. The stunning natural landscape and historical sites earned the Costiera Amalfitana World Heritage status in 1997.

One of the most enjoyable things to do on the Amalfi Coast is to simply find a spot where you can soak it all in. Among the top locations is Monte Solaro, a B & B in Anacapri with stunning views of the twin bays Salerno and Naples.

How to Get There

Trains connect Naples with Sorrento and Salerno. Boats also run to many Amalfi Coast towns during the warmer months.

When to Visit

Consider visiting in the spring (May) or fall (September-October), when the crowds drawn to this world-renowned beauty spot are at their lowest.

• Nat Geo Expeditions

How to Visit

There are many ways to experience the coast but none quite like an end-to-end drive of its precipitous, winding, coastal highway. The National Geographic Road Trip: Amalfi Coast, Italy offers one outstanding itinerary. For those who’d rather leave the driving to others, bus services run up and down the coast.

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The Ultimate guide to Amalfi Coast

The Amalfi Coast evokes images in one’s mind: the scent of lemons wafting on the air, colourful buildings and houses lining the clifftops which plunge directly into the endless azure of the Mediterranean Sea, bronzed Italian tourists basking in the sunshine on the beaches below. In the Amalfi Coast, you may feel as if you are the star of your own glamourous Italian movie.

The Amalfi Coast is the perfect holiday destination for couples and lovers of Italian culture, where you can enjoy the essence of Italy present in the sunshine reflected off the colourful clifftop houses, in the small fishing villages with boats bobbing in the harbour and the amazing cuisine that makes the most of freshly caught seafood brought in by local fishermen.

The coast is famous for its lemons, limoncello, beaches, Mediterranean charm and much more and one visit will leave you wanting to return to discover yet more of this amazing part of Italy.

If you’re looking for that special destination for an anniversary, marriage proposal, singles holiday or gourmet food tour, the Amalfi Coast should be on your list.

We will give you everything you need to know in our ultimate guide to the Amalfi Coast!

Plan your trip?

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Table of Contents

How to get to the Amalfi Coast

Naples is the main hub for the Amalfi Coast and can be reached by air. Low cost carriers such as Ryanair offer budget flights from around Europe to Naples International Airport. Alternatively, you can take a short train journey from Rome to Naples which only takes approximately two and a half hours.

Car rental is a popular option for getting around the Amalfi Coast and will give you the freedom to explore lesser known villages and coastal towns at your own pace. There are several car rental companies at Naples Airport where you can hire a car.

Trains from Naples are the most common way of reaching the cities of Salerno and Sorrento. The national train company, Trenitalia, has direct trains running to Salerno that takes only 40 minutes and costs around €12 per person.

You can reach Sorrento by taking the Circumvesuviana train service from Napoli Centrale train station for only €4.10 per person. The trip takes around an hour from Naples.

From both Sorrento and Salerno, you must catch a bus for any onward travel to the towns on the Amalfi Coast, and the local bus company, SITA, caters to the region and allows for easy and budget-friendly travel between the different towns on the Amalfi Coast.

What to expect in the Amalfi Coast

Expect to see the beautiful landscapes and charming fishing towns that you have seen in hundreds of photos. They are as photogenic as they appear on instagram. This place is a feast for the eyes and you will have endless photo opportunities.

Bear in mind that the Amalfi Coast is not one of the cheapest places to visit in Italy, being a favourite of the jet set crowd. The towns are few and far between and are often small, meaning that accommodation can be expensive and in high demand, especially in the high season.

It is advisable to book your accommodation in advance to avoid being stranded without anywhere to sleep. Airbnb is also a great option to find cheaper accommodation.

The currency used in Italy is the Euro and tipping is not very common, an average tip of 10 – 15% in restaurants is recommended. An average meal can range from around €20 to 30 per person and upwards.

The main language is Italian, though English is spoken widely around the area.

Beaches are often full in the summer and you will not find long stretches of sandy beaches along the coast, but instead the beaches around the region are usually made up of small pebbles that make for uneven walking.

Getting to some beaches require a hike down a mountainside with as many as 800 steps down, so bring some hiking shoes! For those who are not such big fans of hiking there are small ferries that can take you to the little coves and beaches.

The beaches are lined with rows upon rows of umbrellas and beach chairs as they are often divided into small private beach clubs which offer facilities for an entrance fee.

The provided facilities may include access to showers, a coffee bar, a restaurant, and bathrooms aside from the chairs and umbrella. Some beach clubs even offer activities such as kayaking or paddleboarding for their customers.

How to get around the Amalfi Coast

The Amalfi Coast is not the most accessible region of Italy and you can only get as far as Sorrento or Salerno by train, from there you need to rent a car , take a bus or hop on a ferry to explore further.

Driving obviously gives you more freedom to explore but the winding roads of the coastline can be intimidating to inexperienced drivers and the local bus drivers that drive up and down the coastline have very little patience for clueless foreign drivers. Be prepared for traffic jams caused by the latter.

There are ferries serving some towns on the Amalfi Coast but their daily trips are subject to the weather conditions: if the seas are rough, the ferries stop running.

Always be sure to check the weather reports first thing in the morning before any boating excursion or ferry trips as cancellations usually occur in the mornings.

The best time to visit the Amalfi Coast

The most popular season to visit the Amalfi Coast is from the months of April to September. The peak period is during the months of July and August and you will find the beaches and small towns overcrowded with tourists, both local and international who flock to the Amalfi Coast.

Events are usually held in the summertime and there are concerts and music festivals during this period. You may see the glamourous jet-set crowd in the summertime mooring their yachts at the Amalfi Coastal harbours and flaunting themselves in the most upmarket nightclubs and restaurants.

The best time to visit is during the month of May and June, when the cost of hotels is usually cheaper. September is another good month to visit for good weather and fewer crowds.

Things to do on the Amalfi Coast

Drive the winding clifftop roads of 1000 bends.

One of the most famous drives along the coasts consists of 50 kilometres of 1,000 curves! You’ve seen the movies where they drive along the winding roads with the top down and the Mediterranean breeze blowing through their hair and you will want to experience it for yourself.

Braving the nausea, the coastal drive offers spectacular views over the limestone cliffs plunging into the azure sea.

Be aware that the narrow roads only allow for two lanes of traffic and is not for the faint-hearted as they are dominated by aggressive Italian bus drivers who traverse this route numerous times a day and have little patience for drivers unaccustomed to the local roads.

Pro tip: take a motion sickness tablet in advance, just in case!

Hit the beach

Do as the Italians do and hit the beach whilst you’re on the Amalfi Coast. All the beaches will be full of bronzed, tanned bodies soaking up the sunshine and there is plenty of people watching to do.

There are many beautiful beaches such as Minori and Maiori that are worth visiting.  These two sandy beaches are accessible from Amalfi town, a contrast with many of the pebble beaches around the Amalfi Coast.

The inviting cool, turquoise waters will beckon you to take a dip and you can while away the afternoon basking in the sunshine after a fulfilling meal of seafood in a nearby beachfront restaurant.

Explore the Grotta dello Smeraldo cave by boat

One of the most beautiful caves in Italy is called the Grotta dello Smeraldo, or “the emerald grotto”, located between Amalfi and Praiano.

This cave formation is partly submerged and the way the light enters the cave bathes the chamber in a glorious emerald light which plays and dances upon the lake.

The cave was formed centuries ago by volcanic activity and consists of one enormous chamber and a large lake.  To get to the elevated cave, you have to take an elevator and you can have a guided tour around the cave by boat.

The entrance costs only €5 and the tour takes a short 30 minutes which makes this the perfect place to stop in before exploring the towns of Amalfi and Praiano.

Visit the Valle delle Ferriere waterfalls

The Valle delle Ferriere waterfall is the perfect destination for hikers and nature lovers. It is located in the midst of a protected forest and there are many walking and biking trails that allow you to enjoy the vistas of the forest and nearby towns from a different perspective.

The trails are not so well trodden by tourists and will give you the opportunity to get away from the tourist crowds of the other Amalfi Coastal towns.

Discover the art of 18 th century paper making

Amalfi has been creating handcrafted paper since the 13 th century in the numerous paper mills set amidst a gorge alongside a river that flows out into the open sea.

In the 16 th century there were once 16 paper mills in the region but nowadays there are only two remaining. This craft was passed on from the Arabs and historically, the paper was a heavy parchment made from cotton and linen.

You can learn about this ancient craft by visiting the Museo della Carta built in a converted 15 th century paper mill.

Places to visit on the Amalfi Coast

This city is one of the entry points to the Amalfi Coast and is a charming city with narrow alleyways and great gourmet culture.

You can spend a night here before heading off to explore the towns on the coast and there is no better place to stay than the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria , a beautiful and glamorous hotel overlooking the port town from atop a cliff.

This hotel has been run by five generations of the same family and the style is reminiscent of the Grand Budapest Hotel by Wes Anderson.

Enjoy the views of the Italian sunset from the terrace whilst sipping on an cocktail served by elegant waiters in white jackets, for a true Italian experience, opt for an Aperol Spritz.

Once a small, quiet fishing village, Positano is now one of the most touristy of Amalfi Coastal towns, attracting the glamourous Italian jet-set and selfie-taking tourists in the summertime.

It is still worth a visit though, as the colourful houses and the cathedral that sit astride the magnificent cliffs are spectacular and will provide endless photo opportunities.

Positano is best appreciated by boat and you can rent a boat to admire the coastal views .

Nerano is nestled between Sorrento to Positano and is a perfect place for a pit stop. Here you can enjoy an al-fresco lunch in one of the harbour restaurants in the Marina del Cantone.

You can enjoy a delicious meal whilst watching the local children swim and dive into the water and small fishing boats bobbing up and down on their moorings.

One of the most famous restaurants here is Lo Scoglio , which once hosted the Onassis family. This family-established restaurant has been running since 1958 and continues to serve up the most delicious pasta and seafood dishes made with the very best local produce.

Their own olive oil, freshly caught seafood from the local fishermen and vegetables harvested from their own farms. You can follow up with a lovely siesta on the beach before cooling off in the sea.

The town Amalfi is a place that you must visit, the Amalfi Coast was named after this very town.

You lose yourself whilst wandering through the narrow and the whitewashed building-lined streets, descending the steps to discover a stunning beach and a charming plaza.

The narrow passageways and architecture evokes a feeling of being in a Moorish town and you will be transported to another time and place in history.

Don’t miss the 9 th century Baroque cathedral called Duomo di Sant’Andrea, the highlight of Amalfi town.

Ravello is one of Italy’s hidden gems and is the perfect place to visit if you want to avoid the crowds of Positano.

Though most people who visit remain in the plaza below, a hike to the top of the cliff will reward you with the amazing views from Villa Cimbrone and is well worth it.

The villa was built in 1905 and was made famous by the actress Greta Garbo who frequented the villa during her vacations.

The clifftop is home to two notable, large hotel:, the Palazzo Avino is a stunning hotel frequented by the jet-set crowd, while the stunning Belmond Hotel Caruso was once a palace which dates back to the 11 th century.

If you go to Ravello in September, you will be rewarded with an enchanting classical music festival that takes place in the town centre.

The festival has been hosted in Ravello since 1952 in the same town centre which inspired Richard Wagner to compose some of his most famous musical pieces.

Furore is an attractive and charming town clinging to the clifftops on the Amalfi Coast that is overlooked by tourists.

The road to Furore takes you on a climb past hundreds of vineyards lining the limestone cliffs.

You will find beautiful frescoes and murals in the houses and shops in this small town depicting life in this Amalfi town, you will also find lots of shops selling handicrafts and local food produce.

What to eat on the Amalfi Coast

The sun-drenched Amalfi Coast is home to some incredible Italian cuisine. With the Mediterranean providing plenty of fresh seafood, there are many excellent dishes to try, here are some of our favourites:

Scialatielli with Sea Food

The famous dish of the region was created by the famous Italian chef, Enrico Cosentino, the pasta is made of milk and is served with fresh, locally-caught mussels, clams and prawns in a celebration of the abundant seafood of the region.

The ingredients are all tossed together with olives, capers and tomatoes. Other notable pasta dishes to try on the Amalfi Coast are Spaghetti alle Vongole, spaghetti served with clams which is another perfect marriage of Italian flavours and ingredients fresh from the sea.

The delicious plump anchovies available all along the Amalfi Coast make for a delicious meal. This humble fish is highly celebrated in the fishing village of Cetara , there is an annual tradition which begins on March 25 th and ends in late July.

During this period, anchovies are turned into a modern version of “garum”, a fish sauce made from fermented anchovies following an ancient Roman recipe.

The anchovies are salted and flattened between the weight of wooden casks and sprinkled with layers of salt. The liquid gathered from the pressing is filtered into bottles and exposed to sunlight as part of the fermentation process. This magical ingredient is the key to the rich and flavourful pasta dishes of the Amalfi Coast.

Garum is most commonly used all over Asia and is known as “fish sauce” and is not as commonly used in Europe nowadays.

Minori is home to one of the most famous gnocchi dishes. Gnocchi is one of the oldest forms of pasta, according to UNESCO, and Ndunderi is made by preparing a flour with ricotta.

Traditionally, gnocchi are made with potato and is best served in a simple tomato sauce and strewn with delicious, fresh basil leaves from the area.

Amalfi Pastries

Amalfi is famed for its pastries and desserts. In Amalfi you can find the famous iconic café named Pansa, where you can find delicious Amalfi biscuits.

Try some unusual and famous recipes by the famous baker, Salvatore De Riso, at his Minori pastry shop.

Here you can savour his famous aubergines dipped in chocolate, a famous hazelnut cake stuffed ricotta and pear, as well as the famous “argostelles” filled with creamy custard.

Provolone del Monaco

Provolone cheese is usually served oozing and hot from the oven and is absolutely delicious, perfect with some crusty bread.

The provolone made on the Amalfi Coast is covered in a yellow rind and is shaped like a melon. The most famous cheesemaker of the region is Monti Lattari, aside from Provolone, they also make a rich, flavourful goats cheese which is used in dishes in many of the restaurants of the region. A visit to Monti Lattari is a must for any gourmand!

Where to stay on the Amalfi Coast

Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi – Stay on an organic olive farm near the town of Sant’Agata, overlooking the bay of Naples and Salerno.

The no frills rooms are charmingly decorated with stencils and the hearty breakfasts consisting of home-baked cakes, fresh eggs from their chickens and harvested fruits from their own garden are served in open air on a terrace draped with jasmine flowers and roses.

Villa Rosa , Positano  – For a reasonable hotel in Positano, pay a visit to Villa Rosa. Here you will find spacious rooms with terraces overlooking the sea, draped with bougainvillea flowers. In the morning they serve fragrant pastries and hot coffees brought to your terrace.

Agriturismo Sant’Alfonso, Furore  – Above the Vallone del Furore Gorge is the small town of Furore, home of famous DOC wines that hail from the numerous vineyards clinging to the steep cliff terraces.

The winding road leads to the town 400 metres above sea level, the road is steep and offers spectacular views over the cliffs. The hotel is a refurbished in an old monastery building and has impressive facilities such as a Jacuzzi, home-cooked authentic food.

Nearby you can go on excellent nature hikes and you can go and visit the stunning waterfall set amidst the nature reserve. This hotel is a must for nature lovers.

Torre dello Ziro , Ravello  – Looking over the Bay of Salerno is the Torre dello Ziro hotel. This bed and breakfast is situated halfway between the coast and sea and only consists of six contemporary rooms.

The hotel offers a picturesque terraced garden where you can relax and enjoy your breakfast in the morning.

The mother of the owner herself bakes the fresh pastries and cakes every morning which she serves with homemade juices and jams made from fruits gathered from the garden.

Villa Maria Luigia , Salerno  – This gorgeous bed and breakfast is only a short distance to the beach and has a feeling of home from home.

The hotel has a delightful terrace where they serve breakfast (included in the price) in the morning. You can choose a garden view room or enjoy sea views and the hotel is a bargain for its location and value!

Tours to do on the Amalfi Coast

Amalfi by Boat

As there are so many stunning and picturesque coastal towns, the best way to see them is by boat. There are many tour organisers who offer trips where you can see Amalfi’s beauty from another perspective.

Prices start at around €119 per person so it’s not cheap but is definitely worth the price for the amazing photo opportunities on the way.

From Positano you can find a steal at the Lucibella booth, here you can hire a small traditional wooden boat for the price of only €35 per hour!

Day trips from the Amalfi Coast

Mount Vesuvius and Pompeii

This active volcano rises in the distance above the Bay of Naples. For those who love hiking, a walk to the summit will offer fantastic views of Naples with only a 20 to 30-minute uphill walk, depending on your level.

It is situated in the National Park of Vesuvius and can be reached by taking the Circumvesuviana regional train service to Pompeii-Villa dei Misteri. Once in Pompeii you can take a bus from the main station.

One of the best ways to see Mount Vesuvius is via an organised full-day tour which will also include Pompeii’s historic site.

Pompeii is an incredible archaeological site where an entire town was buried and preserved in perfect condition under the ash and lava of the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD.

Here you will see figures, humans and animals preserved forever in that tragic moment and get a glimpse of what life in an ancient Roman town must have been like.

The Island of Capri

Ahh, the glamour of Capri is irresistible! This attractive island has brought all manner of famous people to its shores including the Emperor Tiberius, in ancient Roman times, to modern day celebrities such as Brigitte Bardot, Elizabeth Taylor and Jackie Onassis who loved to holiday there. You will find designer shops and trendy bars and nightclubs in Capri.

Attractions on the island include the Blue Grotto or Grotta Azzurra, a sea cave which is accessed by small wooden rowboats where the water glows with an eerie and unbelievable blue colour. Tickets for the rowboat cost €14 per person and there is often quite a queue!

Other activities on the island include climbs to the summit or a cable car to the top to take in the views from the island. Ferries run regularly between Capri and the mainland, however the last ferry leaves at around dinnertime.

The Island of Ischia

This island is not as touristy as Capri but is now growing in popularity due to the Italian writer Elena Ferrante, who uses this beautiful island as a setting for one of her books.

The island is famous for its thermal springs, you can enjoy the healing properties at a traditional spa for only €15 per person where you can enjoy a Roman bath, sauna and feel revitalised after a long day of exploring. Ischia can be reached by ferry from Naples.

There is a high speed ferry that takes an hour and a slower one that takes 30 minutes longer. Alternatively, you can hire a private boat for €100 to take you around the island to some of the more hidden and less-touristy beaches.

It’s worth spending a night on Ischia to make the most of the island as there is plenty to do! There are many hikes which have spectacular views of the island and also a botanical garden called La Mortella.

In the summer, the botanical garden hosts classical music concerts for €20 for the ticket, a delightful way to enjoy the Italian evenings whilst indulging in some culture.

The Sirenuse Islands

These islands are situated between Capri and Positano are an archipelago. Roman mythology bestowed the name to these islands due to the belief that the islands were once inhabited by Sirens who lured sailors to their death with their haunting and magical songs.

The island chain consists of the islands of La Rotonda, La Castelluccia, Galla Lungo, Vetara and Isca. The largest of all the islands is Gall Lungo which has the remnants of a monastery and a prison building, where convicts were sent.

Tourists are not allowed to set foot on the islands but you can view them by boat tour and prices start from around €100 per person.

Recommend budget tours in Amalfi Coast

• Amalfi Coast Boat Experience: from Sorrento to Positano, Li Galli, Rotonda and Castelletto
• Amalfi Coast Shore Excursion- Semi Private Tour/Small group from Naples area
• Private Tour: Amalfi Coast and Capri Cruise
• Private Day Trip to Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast
• Full-Day Amalfi Coast and Positano Boat Excursion from Sorrento
• Small-Group Amalfi Coast Day-Trip from Salerno Including Lunch
• Amalfi Coast Small group Tour by Boat from Sorrento
• Amalfi and Ravello Full-Day Tour from Sorrento
• Amalfi Drive: Sorrento to Amalfi Excursion
• Small-Group Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello Day Tour from Sorrento with Lunch
• Sunset Cruise
• A day on the Amalfi Coast

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Sam, a seasoned traveler across four continents and 49 countries, is a leading authority in travel planning. Her website, Travelling King, offers tailored itineraries and expert guides for seamless trips. Sam's expertise in luxury travel, fast travel, and destination guides keeps her at the forefront of the travel community.

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How to Plan a Trip to Italy's Amalfi Coast — Best Seaside Towns, Top Luxury Hotels, and Tastiest Restaurants Included

Italy’s Amalfi Coast is sprinkled with colorful seaside towns, and this guide will help you navigate them like an expert.

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Getting to the Amalfi Coast

Best amalfi coast towns to visit, best time to visit the amalfi coast for good weather, most affordable time to visit the amalfi coast, best time to avoid the crowds.

The allure of the Amalfi Coast has drawn people to the region that is now Italy for centuries. Its dramatic landscapes and idyllic weather enticed ancient Roman nobles to build their villas there, and the high-end real estate trend never faded. Today, the mountains and cliffs remain dotted with breathtaking historic houses perched above the crystalline waters, making the coastline one of the most sought-after destinations in the world. Its fragile cultural landscape — churches, gardens, vineyards, and towns — is divided into 16 municipalities and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site . Positano, Ravello, and Amalfi are the area's top destinations, attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors each year. Here's how you can be one of them.

There are multiple ways to get to (and around) the Amalfi Coast. Whatever means of transportation you choose, be sure to book it well in advance of your trip.

The cities of Italy are connected by an extensive high-speed rail network. Make your way to Salerno from Rome (2.5 hours), Naples (one hour), or another region. From Salerno, there's a local train to Vietri sul Mare, the first town on the Amalfi Coast. The second leg takes only about 10 minutes.

Ferries run along the coast between Amalfi and Salerno (30 minutes), Vietri sul Mare (45 minutes), and Sorrento (one hour). Travelmar operates between Salerno and Positano, stopping at all the main towns. From Sorrento, options include the Navigazione Libera del Golfo (NLG) and Alilauro Gruson . Alternatively, Alilauro runs a ferry service directly from Naples to Positano and Amalfi.

If you don't fancy ferries, you can also charter a boat. In most towns, travelers get their pick of companies offering private trips. If you want to book ahead, try Positano Boats or Lucibello .

The Amalfi Coast is one of the world's most famous road trip routes, and driving along its switchbacks, high up on the cliffside, is truly spectacular. Both Salerno and Sorrento have all the major car rental companies, though local companies often offer better value. Salernorental is one known to be reliable.

Because traffic can be so excessive, the company that manages Italy's motorways rolled out an alternating license plate system for rental cars traveling the stretch between Positano and Vietri sul Mare. Since 2022, rental cars with odd-numbered plates have been banned from that section on odd-numbered days, and the same goes for cars with even-numbered plates on even-numbered days. The rule is enforced throughout much of the tourist season, between April and September, with some exceptions. Check the exact dates before you hit the road so you don't get fined for driving on the wrong day.

Another word of warning: If you're driving, be aware that the road is narrow in parts and full of sharp switchbacks, some of them requiring a bit of back-and-forth to get around. Note that traveling by road takes much longer than by sea — at least an hour from Positano to Amalfi, for example, compared to 25 minutes by ferry.

Sita Sud buses run the length of the Amalfi Coast and provide some of the cheapest transportation. Those traveling from Rome or Naples can opt for one of the economic shuttle sharing systems, like Positano Shuttle . It'll scoop you up straight from the airport in Rome or Naples and deliver you to your accommodations in Positano.

If you've seen the Amalfi Coast on Instagram, chances are you've seen Positano. With its brightly colored houses spilling over the cliffs around a bay, and dramatic mountains rearing up in the background, the village is picture-perfect.

Travelers can find shops selling locally made linen clothes and tailored vintage styles. Positano is particularly known for handcrafted sandals — try Nanà , where the Ruocco family has been making them to measure for generations.

When in Italy, learn how to cook as the Italians do. Buca di Bacco is a hotel that offers cooking classes to visitors. During these classes, offered daily, trainees help chefs prepare regional appetizers and first and second courses.

For history enthusiasts: Mar , the Roman Archeological Museum, is a stunning Roman villa beneath the town's bell tower. The relic has undergone excavation for a decade and only opened to the public in 2018. Restoration work continues, but the colorful frescoes are primed for admiration and worth the visit alone.

Positano is also the endpoint for one of Italy's most stunning hiking trails. Hemmed into the mountains above the coast, the Path of the Gods is a gentle four-hour hike that snakes high above the sea. It starts outside the village of Bomerano and runs west of Amalfi, to Nocelle, then to Positano.

Where to Stay in Positano

Book a room at the four-star Hotel Poseidon to immerse yourself in Positano's bohemian flair. Family-owned since it opened in the 1950s, this property is laid-back and friendly. Vintage-style rooms are large, and all but one overlook the town and sea from private balconies. Perched above the center of Positano, it's removed enough to avoid the tourist crowds but still a quick walk down to the action.

If you prefer to stay right in the center of it all, the charming Hotel Palazzo Murat is located in the pedestrian zone by the waterfront. While it lacks the knockout views of higher-up hotels, its sizable private courtyard planted with palms and fragrant flowering vines is a lovely place for a candlelit aperitif.

Le Sirenuse is another Positano institution, terraced into the cliffs on the opposite side (and a bit lower down) from the Poseidon. It's a feast for the eyes, surrounded by exquisite tile work, lemon trees, and plentiful art.

Where to Eat and Drink in Positano

At Michelin-starred restaurant Zass in Positano, chef Alois Vanlangenaeker builds artful culinary creations from fruits and vegetables grown on the property, local meats, and seafood caught fresh each day. Hotel Poseidon's Il Tridente may not have a Michelin star (the owners deliberately avoid making this a hot spot to keep the familial atmosphere), but it's also exceptional. You'll eat local dishes, like the sublime shrimp carpaccio, off crockery hand-painted in Vietri sul Mare.

Another place to try is Da Vincenzo . Since 1958, the family-owned restaurant has served regional seafood and pasta dishes, like rigatoni alla genovese and cod cooked in oil and Amalfi lemon peel. Le Tre Sorelle , a more affordable dining option located on the beach, is consistently good and has served traditional Amalfitano dishes since 1953.

Amalfi is the largest town on its namesake coast. It serves as a major intersection for nearly all the buses, boats, and ferries shuttling tourists between the islands and towns, which means the crowds there can be overwhelming. Many would argue that the town's ninth-century Duomo di Amalfi makes the swarms of tourists worth braving, though. The church is treasured for its collision of various architectural styles and materials — it draws on Arab-Norman, Romanesque, Byzantine, and Rococo designs.

Amalfi used to vie with Venice and Genoa as one of the three maritime republics of the Italian Peninsula, and if you look past the shops selling lemon soaps, limoncello, and Amalfi tea towels, you'll see some fascinating remnants of history. The Museo della Carta — dedicated to Amalfi's handmade paper industry — is one of them. Take a tour of the still-operational 13th-century mill to see exactly how the paper is produced. For more antique oddities, La Scuderia del Duca sells art and stationery on the famous Amalfi paper, plus the odd antique.

Of course, Amalfi lemons are everywhere, but the best way to see them is through the Amalfi Lemon Experience . The Aceto family has been growing lemons less than a mile from the coast for six generations. The farm is open to the public for limited tours of the lemon groves, picnics, and cooking classes with the family. Not only is a visit lovely, but you'll get an idea of the backbreaking labor involved with growing lemons on mountain terraces and working the land by hand.

Where to Stay in Amalfi

The Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel , a converted 13th-century monastery, sits high up on the cliffs like a white palace. It's an eight-minute walk from Amalfi and has two restaurants, a pool area, a gym, and a spa. Those who drive to Amalfi will appreciate the hotel's on-site valet parking.

A bit further west, Hotel Santa Caterina provides an excellent buffer from the hectic summer crowds. The property has a beach club with a pool and a sun deck with views of the town. The rooms and suites, most with small terraces and sea views, are few, which makes this place more intimate.

Borgo Santandrea , which opened in 2021 two miles west of town, features a fresh, modern take on Amalfi style. One of its major highlights is the elevator that rides down the cliff to a private beach complete with a restaurant.

Where to Eat and Drink in Amalfi

Amalfi locals have been eating at Trattoria da Gemma since 1872. You could spend an entire afternoon grazing through its tasting menu, enjoying locally sourced dishes like tuna carpaccio and homemade pasta.

For a more casual dining experience, go for pizza or a plate of seafood in the homey dining room of Trattoria da Maria . The pies here are simple and traditional, topped with combinations like buffalo mozzarella and ham or sausage and broccoli.

Make sure to try some local pastries, too. Pasticceria Pansa has been an Amalfi institution since 1830. Try the delizia di limone : lemon cream in a sponge case, drizzled with lemon sauce.

If you visit Ravello — the town high in the hills above Amalfi — and don't spend an hour or two roaming through Villa Cimbrone's gardens, you're essentially missing the point. From Ravello's central piazza, signs will lead you to the storied gardens, which are part of a palatial, centuries-old compound perched on the coast. Some, such as the well-traveled late American writer Gore Vidal, have proclaimed the spot the most beautiful they've ever visited.

Within the historic center of Ravello is the Villa Rufolo , a stunning example of regional 13th-century architecture with beautiful Italianate gardens overlooking the blue water below. During the summer months, the villa and gardens host spectacular outdoor concerts.

Where to Stay in Ravello

Most accommodations in Ravello come with gorgeous views of valleys, mountains, oceans, and ancient towns. Still, there are a few five-star standouts. Caruso, a Belmond Hotel , has 50 rooms and suites, with details such as vaulted ceilings and 18th-century frescoes, and beautiful grounds overlooking the coast.

There's also the jaw-dropping Hotel Villa Cimbrone , a 12th-century building perched on the sea cliffs and enclosed by stunning gardens.

The over-the-top rooms and suites at Palazzo Avino feature antique furniture and rugs, giving it a more classic, regal feel. The hotel's clubhouse is spectacular and built right into the cliffs, with a poolside restaurant and bar.

Where to Eat and Drink in Ravello

Tourists from all over the Amalfi Coast queue up for a table at Il Flauto di Pan in Hotel Villa Cimbrone. Chef Lorenzo Montoro is at the helm of this Michelin-starred establishment, drawing on the surrounding countryside to create his menu. It's costly, but the superb food and sea views from the garden terrace are worth the expense.

Piazza Vescovado, Ravello's square, is a beautiful place to refuel or relax in the shade of the cathedral. Visitors spill out onto the piazza for drinks, gelato, or granita at a handful of cute, simple bars ringing the square.

Vietri sul Mare

Those brightly colored, hand-painted plates and bowls sold all along the coast? They're likely from Vietri. There's even a museum dedicated to the tradition — the Museo della Ceramica — just outside town.

Walk around the streets, and you'll see tiles everywhere: donkey-shaped designs for every house number, portraits of saints painted over strips of tiles on walls, and tiles that have been adorned with the same patterns for centuries. Solimene is the primary producer, housed in a gigantic warehouse store above the town, clad in tiles like a Gaudi building in Barcelona.

Then, there's Mirkò: a superb modern artist who has taken the Vietri tradition to new heights. His artworks, which can cost thousands, are sold around the world, but he also makes smaller, much more affordable tiles for his shop in his hometown.

Where to Stay in Vietri sul Mare

Deluxe rooms and suites at the five-star Hotel Raito open up to terraces overlooking Vietri and the coastline. The decor is crisp, elegant, and, of course, includes locally made ceramics. Relax by the pool in the sun before cleaning up for an upscale dining experience on the terrace of on-site Il Golfo, where views abound.

Where to Eat and Drink in Vietri sul Mare

Take in the essence of Vietri from an outdoor table at Ristorante Sud Est , a laid-back pizzeria serving fluffy Neapolitan-style pizza, seafood, and pasta dishes. Or take a break from the typical pizza-and-pasta fare and try the Mediterranean tapas at Passariello Cantina Mediterranea , a casual wine bar also known for its cocktails.

When the time calls for a more polished environment, Il Principe e la Civetta is a great option. Menu standouts include ricotta and lemon ravioli with pumpkin and shrimp, spaghetti with pesto and anchovies, and the fresh catch of the day.

The weather on the Amalfi Coast is best in May, when it's warm yet fresh enough to walk the vertiginous towns. You can also see wildflowers blooming along the roadside during this time. September and June are also beautiful, as is October, when the sea is still warm enough for swimming. July and August tend to be very hot and humid, which is made even more uncomfortable by the throngs of tourists jamming into the towns.

The Amalfi Coast isn't so much a destination for the winter months since most activities revolve around the water. Outside of the busy season, April to October, you might struggle to find accommodations, and many shops and restaurants are closed. So, instead of going for a winter bargain, try April, early May, or late September to October. Prices tend to rise from June until mid-September.

Winter is the least busy time, but also perhaps the least appealing to those who want to experience the best of the Amalfi Coast. Instead, go midweek during the cheaper months — May, April, and September — and you'll find it quiet, particularly in the evenings when the day-trippers have gone home, but still accommodating to tourists.

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Amalfi coast travel blog — the fullest travel guide & what to do in amalfi coast.

At 6 a.m. one day in mid-August, I excitedly pushed to open out the door, tiptoeing out into the street. It was early dawn and the early morning dew was still cold. The streets were deserted, different from the bustling daytime scene in this Amalfi region. In this article I will share with you my experiences when visiting this legendary coastal region. So, what to do in Amalfi Coast and how to travel around the Amalfi Coast for the first-time? Let’s check out my Amalfi Coast travel blog (Amalfi Coast blog) and Amalfi Coast review with the fullest Amalfi Coast travel guide (Amalfi Coast guide, Amalfi Coast tourist guide) from how to get to Amalfi Coast, best time to come, where to stay, best place to visit on the Amalfi Coast, best way to travel the Amalfi Coast, what to eat and top things to do in Amalfi Coast to find out the answer!

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The Amalfi Coast, more than 25 km long stretching from Positano , passes through the villages of Praiano, Amalfi, Ravello to Vietri sul Mare, which lies entirely in the Gulf of Salerno, south of Naples, the third largest city in Italy. The Amalfi Coast was listed as a UNESCO heritage site since 1997, is one of the most famous and popular holiday destinations in Italy every summer. I often love quiet, tranquil, deserted places, but today, I was here.

People often say “fate is inevitable”. The story is, many years ago, I have been to Amalfi. In those days, I fell in love with the charming little villages nestled on the mountainside, the gently sloping pedestrian streets, the brilliant pottery shops, the gardens on the villa grounds, the sun-drenched and flowers balconies, facing the sea to catch the cool Mediterranean breeze. The Amalfi Coast is truly Italian, romantic, luxurious but vibrant and passionate. Amalfi Coast is also a paradise for mountaineers. When I heard about the hiking trail «Path of the Gods» (Sentiero degli Dei) but never had the opportunity to set foot in, I made a promise to return to Amalfi.

The «Path of the Gods» is a hike of more than 8 km, starting at Bomerano, in Agerola and ending in Nocelle, right above Positano – one of the most beautiful villages on the Amalfi Coast. The “Path of the Gods” takes its name from legend. The story goes that the Olympians, wanting to hear the singing of mermaids, often borrowed the way between the sky and the sea, winding along the rocky shores of the Amalfi Coast. From halfway up the mountain, the gods could admire from the island of Capri, the Li Galli islands, the Sorrento peninsula in the west, to the bay of Salerno in the east.

In August, the tourist month, southern Italy is hot as hell, especially on the extreme crowded bus routes connecting Sorrento, Positano , Amalfi and Agerola. After two days of struggling with the sun, I looked at the map and saw that the “Path of the Gods” was located on the southern slopes of Monte Peruso mountain, and there was almost no shade of trees, I chose the only way to avoid the sun heating, departed very early.

From the corner of Piazza Paolo Capasso in Bomerano, a small path leads us to the starting point of the «Path of the Gods» at an altitude of 650 m. The sun has not yet risen, the morning dew still covered the sea surface, creating a thin layer of white clouds floating. Below, small boats are anchored head to head in a narrow cove. Layered on the mountainside, a few beautiful stone houses loom between the pine trees and the ripe grape vines.

After walking a little, a cool mist covered the space. The air warmed up to the rhythm of the rising sun, causing the water vapor to rise higher and higher, and after a while it completely dissipates. The sun drops glittering, melting in rays on the mountainside behind. In front, the deep blue Mediterranean water gradually appeared, the coastline glowed in the morning sun.

The “Path of the Gods” from Agerola to Nocelle gently slopes down, easy to walk like a footpath. One side is a high cliff, the other side is a vast space. About a hundred meters lower, the small yachts had begun to set sail. Seen from here, they are as tiny as grains of rice floating on the water. The sky was high, the sea was vast, who knows where the boundary was?

After about four hours of walking, leisurely taking pictures and enjoying the scenery, the houses of Positano in gentle pastel tones appeared in the distance. Nocelle is a small village located just above Positano , marking the end of the road. From Nocelle down further 3 km, there is a bus every hour from here to the harbor, where you can catch a boat to Amalfi. It was still early, the sun has not yet risen over a pole, we can walk to see the tiny streets, weaving between the typical pure white walls of the coastal villages.

Positano is one of the most beautiful villages on the Amalfi Coast. The houses here are arranged in a terraced shape, following the mountain topography. That is fair, every house can enjoy the sea breeze, every balcony can enjoy the cool blue water, and also receive the warm rays of the sun.

Coming to the Amalfi coast and the Central Italian province of Campania, you can’t forget to enjoy its delectable food, dyed in the Mediterranean sun. Everyone knows the most typical flavors of Italian cuisine such as crispy thin crust pizzas, hot plates of spaghetti, soft round mozzarella cheeses or fresh cream (gelato) made from mascarpone sweet cheese.

However, in Campania, each seemingly familiar dish brings more subtle nuances. Italians usually start their meal (primi piatti) with a plate of stir-fried spaghetti with clam or seafood along with a little olive oil to enhance greasy taste. The dish has both the crunchy texture of blanch spaghetti (al dente), it is not too firm it is not too cooked, and the light sweetness of clams and a little spicy to create a perfect taste.

Few people know that Italian pizza, popular around the world today, was born in Naples two centuries ago and has been classified by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage since 2017. Among them, the most famous is pizza Margherita which has three colors representing the Italian national flag: The green of the fragrant basil leaves, the white of the traditional mozzarella cheese made from buffalo milk and the red of ripe tomatoes grown on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius.

For dessert, it would be great to sample colorful whipped cream and cool limoncello served in a small, hand-decorated porcelain cup. The name limoncello is reserved for the famous lemon liqueur of the coastal strip from Sorrento to Amalfi. The liquor has a fragrant lemon aroma and a sweet bright yellow color, reminiscent of a sunny sea.

Amalfi Coast travel blog: When is the good time to go to Amalfi Coast?

Amalfi is one of the famous holiday places in Italy and Europe as well. The peak tourist season in Amalfi is in the summer months. In the summer, the prices are often rocket to sky. At this time, the streets filled with crowded of tourists, very hustle and bustle, traveling and moving here is not easy. So you should stay away from the peak tourist months of July, August.

May, June and September and October are the best times to visit the Amalfi Coast. In these months, although it is quite hot, it is suitable for beach tourism and is also less crowded. The prices of restaurants, hotels, tickets are no longer high.

Amalfi Coast guide: How to get to Amalfi Coast?

Public transport.

• The nearest international airport is located in Naples, then take a bus or taxi to Napoli Central station.
• From Napoli Central station to the two big cities located at the 2 ends of the Amalfi Coast, Salerno or Sorrento, there are trains, the fare is €5-7, there are many trips per hour. Train tickets purchased at the station.
• From Napoli Central station to Amalfi (the village is located in the center of Amalfi Coast) or to Agerola (the starting point of the hike «Path of the Gods», there is a bus of SITA, the fare is €5-7. This bus route much deserted than other coastal routes, and it is easy to find a comfortable seat.
• There is also a SITA bus service between the villages of the Amalfi Coast. Bus tickets are purchased at tobaaccoo shops (tabaccheria) near the bus stops. Timetable: http://www.positano.com/en/bus-schedule .
• Among some famous places such as Positano, Amalfi, Sorrento, Capri island, there are boats running many times a day. This is a fun way to see the scenery along the coast. Boat tickets are sold at the port or on the website: https://www.positano.com/en/ferry-schedule

No need to worry about finding a parking space. The bus station is usually located in the center, making it easy to visit the villages. Cheaper.

In the high season, SITA’s bus is very crowded, rarely has seats, need to come early to queue. The road here is short but winding, taking a long time to go. If you have to stand on the bus, it will sway, very uncomfortable.

• On summer days, sitting on the bus is also hot because few buses have air conditioning and cannot open the windows.
• Bus density is not much (about 1, 2 hours only with a trip, depending on the route).
• Hotels in the Amalfi are quite expensive compared to other places in Italy, it is difficult to find a cheap price place near the bus station in the high season.

Tips: The train route from Napoli to Sorrento is also the route to Pompei and Herculanum. If you want to visit Naples and these 2 places, you can buy a Campania Arte pass (3 days or 7 days). The 3-day pass costs €21, free / reduced admission tickets to many places in the Campanie region and free of all metro tickets, buses in Naples and a few train lines including the Napoli – Herculanum – Pompei – Sorrento line. This pass is purchased at Naples airport and a few other points of sale (see details on the website: https://www.campaniartecard.it/ ).

Self-driving

• Pros: The Amalfi coastal road is among the most beautiful roadtrips in Italy, with curves along the mountainside, with a spectacular view down to the Mediterranean Sea. Self-driving also helps increase initiative, not being dependent on train or bus time. There are more options when it comes to finding hotels.
• Cons: Narrow road, many sharp turns and traffic jams. Locals drive fast even though the speed limit is only 30 km/h. The center of Sorrento and around the villages of Positano, Praiano, Amalfi, Ravello are difficult to find a parking lot.

Amalfi Coast review: Must-Try dishes in the Amalfi Coast and the provinces of Campania region.

• Stir-fried spaghetti with mussels or clams.
• Black pasta made from squid and fried with seafood.
• A Napoli pizza spread with buffalo milk mozzarella cheese.
• Italian gelato made from fragrant buffalo milk.
• Sweet limoncello dessert liquor.

Amalfi Coast guide: Where to go, things and what to do in Amalfi Coast?

• Wandering around in the nooks and crannies of the most beautiful villages in Italy: Positano, Praiano, Amalfi, Ravello.
• Positano and Amalfi villages look like the 5 villages a lot in Cinque Terre, Northern Italy, but I personally find this Amalfi Coast more attractive and much more interesting to explore.
• Strolling on small streets, flanked by Italian ice cream shops, pottery shops, and colorful souvenirs.
• Watching sunset in one of the most beautiful sunset places in the world (Sorrento or Positano).
• Boating between Positano and Amalfi and seeing the Amalfi Coast from the sea.
• Back to nature, between mountains and sea on treks (Sentiero degli Dei, La Baia di Ieranto,…). More information about these treks can be found at: https://www.positano.com/en/e/footpaths-on-the-amalfi-coast-trekking .
• Spending time strolling around the tranquil gardens in the grounds of the old villas in Ravello (Villa Cimbrone, Villa Rufolo,…).
• Watching the Mediterranean Sea in the afternoon from balconies of romantic Italian restaurants and bars.
• Rent a boat to snorkeling, scuba diving or going to Capri, Ischia, and small Li Galli islands.
• Rent a kayak to paddle along the coast, find yourself a small beach far from crowded places.
• In spring, visit the fragrant lemon groves in Sorrento. Limoncello is a specialty of the Campania region.

Amalfi Coast tourist guide: Recommended an Amalfi Coast weekend itinerary 2 days

Afternoon: Fly to Naples, take the evening bus to Agerola, overnight in Agerola.

• Morning: Trekking the Sentiero degli Dei (The Path of the Gods) from Agerola (Bomerano bus stop) to Nocello. Walk or bus down to Positano (there is 1 bus every hour, about 1 hour on foot).
• Afternoon: Strolling around Positano, take a ferry from Positano to Amalfi.
• Dinner and overnight in Amalfi.
• Get up early to walk around Amalfi when the street is still deserted tourists.
• Take the Amalfi-Napoli bus (via Agerola), fly home from Naples.

If you have one more day for the Amalfi Coast, from Positano, you can take a boat to Capri Island to sleep one night, the next day trek on the island, return to Amalfi in the evening.

Amalfi Coast blog: Where to stay?

Below we recommend more best budget, mid-range and upscale hotels with good ratings and reviews you can refer to.

• Albergo L’Antico Convitto ( Booking.com )
• NH Collection Grand Hotel Convento di Amalfi ( Agoda.com or Booking.com )
• Santa Caterina Hotel ( Booking.com )
• Hotel Marina Riviera ( Agoda.com or Booking.com )
• Hotel Luna Convento ( Booking.com )

Check out more top and best hotels in Amalfi on Agoda or Booking .

Read more Positano guide here and Italy here . 

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The Ultimate Guide to the Amalfi Coast on a Budget

Sean Finelli Last Updated: February 1, 2023

What comes to mind when you think of a trip to the Amalfi Coast? Luxury? Extravagance? Expensive? While this can certainly be true, don’t let it discourage you. It’s possible to travel to this beautiful part of Italy without blowing the bank. In this guide, we show you how to do the Amalfi Coast on a budget.

Pro Tip: Planning a trip to the Amalfi Coast? Bookmark this post in your browser so you can come back to it later. See our guide to the Amalfi Coast for more resources to help you plan your trip. Also, check out our article on how to visit Pompeii .

How To Visit The Amalfi Coast On A Budget

You don’t need to be rolling in dough to be able to afford and make the most out of your trip to the Amalfi Coast. With a bit of planning and patience, you’ll get to experience one of Italy’s (and Europe’s) most gorgeous coastlines. To help you do that, we’ve put together this guide covering everything you need to know to visit the Amalfi Coast on a budget.

How To Get There

Where to stay, things to do, where to eat.

Not ready to book a tour? Read our  Amalfi Coast Guide for more tips.

Our Partnership with Booking.com . If you like our content, please book by clicking on our Booking.com links. The price is the same for you and we get a small commission that helps support our helpful blog content. We’ve partnered with Booking.com because they have the most options, great prices, and a solid loyalty program.

The Amalfi Coast is high up on many people’s summer destination wishlists for good reason. But here’s the thing: If you want to go to the Amalfi Coast for cheap, avoid going during the high season (May 15th to October 10th).

I know, it can be a hard pill to swallow. The weather won’t be as warm and you probably won’t be lounging on the beach. But consider a late October or April trip if you want to enjoy this incredible place on a budget. Besides saving you money, you’ll also get to enjoy your trip without the summer crowds and see what life is like on the Amalfi Coast for locals.

I went to Positano in the last week of March with my family and we stayed at a 4-star hotel  in an amazing room with a balcony and beautiful view for $175/night. The weather was sunny, and even though we sat on the beach in sweaters we weren’t at all cold. There were tons of locals out and we had an amazing time. We had the town to ourselves.

You can get to Sorrento, Positano, and other places along the Amalfi Coast by public transportation. So, unless you’re taking a private car from Rome or Naples, a great way to save on expenses is to take advantage of the local trains and buses. Another option is to tie your transport needs in with the tours you’re taking.

From Rome or Naples, take the slower train for as little as €12, which will get you there in about 2 to 2.5 hours. The fast train normally costs about €50 and takes an hour. Trenitalia and Italo are the two major train providers in Italy.

To get to Sorrento from Naples, hop on the Circumvesuviano , which is a small regional train. This will cost you another €4 per person.

Once you’re in Sorrento, my recommendation is to stay there for one night and one day before heading off to picturesque Positano for another couple of nights. To get to Positano, catch a bus via Sita bus . Buses leave about once an hour and will cost you around €4 to €7 (depending on if you want to take the bus farther than Positano).

By Tour Transport

Another option is to tie transport to your Amalfi Coast accommodation to a tour. If you’re coming from Rome, we can tie your transport to the Amalfi Coast to a day trip to Pompeii and Sorrento from Rome , which costs roughly €170 per person.

The tour stops in Sorrento after Pompeii and some people arrange transport from Sorrento to their Amalfi Coast accommodation. You can organize secondary transport through your accommodation or we’ll arrange it for you—wherever you can find the best price!

This is a great way to get from Rome to the Amalfi Coast and skip the line to see Pompeii followed by a lovely afternoon in Sorrento.

Tours of Capri & Pompeii

Best Selling Tour

Rome to Pompeii Day Trip with Stunning Sorrento

Join us on an adventure from Rome to Pompeii and stunning Sorrento with comfortable, round-trip transportation. Skip the line access with an expert guide and make the most of your time in Italy and leave all the details to us. All you have to do is enjoy yourself!

Amazing Experience

Full-Day Private Boat tour to Capri from Amalfi

A full-day private boat tour to Capri from Amalfi, including the Island of Capri, is the best way to experience this world-famous coastline. Arrange a personalized boat tour along the Amalfi Coast and create unforgettable memories of Italy.

Not ready to book a tour? Check out our  Amalfi Coast Guide for more info.

When it comes to choosing where to stay on the Amalfi Coast, Positano and Sorrento are popular choices. Positano is the most happening place on the coast with a great beach, and Sorrento, while not officially on the Amalfi coast, is the largest town in the area with Amalfi vibes and accessible by train from Naples.

But for those on a budget, I have another recommendation: Maiori and Minori—two small towns with a local feel, great food, and inexpensive accommodations. Maiori is the Amalfi Coast town for insiders. It’s away from international tourism and close to the best beaches in the area. Here, you’ll pay much less for your accommodation and find great restaurants with seriously authentic food .

Club 2 Torri

€€ | 4 Star | Maiori

This is my number one pick for Maiori for the price, location, and amenities. Beautiful hotel at a great price with a nice vibe to it. Most rooms come with private balconies for a luxe experience at a great price (especially off season).

Location, photos, and booking

Villa Isabella

€ | Guest House | Great Views and Wood Ceilings | Minori

Quaint and economic guest house with characteristic charm and stunning views. You’re just steps from the beach here, and the rooms have wooden beams on the ceiling that make it feel cozy.

Hotel Ravello Art Marmorata

€€ | 4 Star | Pool Between Maiori and Amalfi

Reasonably priced and nice cliffside hotel with a hydromassage pool. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, so you could spend your entire day here enjoying sea views that are unforgettable.

When planning your trip, make sure you book ahead. The Amalfi Coast sells out from May 1st through October 10th. So, to avoid disappointment, lock in your accommodation early. We recommend using apps like Booking.com  and others to find accommodation. Trust the reviews about views and proximity to the beach.

As we mentioned earlier, the most budget-friendly time to go is just before and after the high season. But if your heart is set on a summer vacation, here are some minimum prices for the high season:

• Bed and breakfast: €100/night
• Cheap hotels: €120/night
• Decent hotels: €200/night+
• Nice hotels: €300/night +
• Best hotels: €700/night+

Searching for a cool place to stay? Check out our dedicated guide on where to stay on the Amalfi Coast , and the best hotels and villas in Positano .

Whether you’re looking for a relaxing vacation or a bit of adventure, there’s plenty to do on the Amalfi Coast . Here are some budget-friendly ways to enjoy Sorrento and Positano.

In Sorrento:

• Head to Peter’s Beach to enjoy a small beach and a sunbathing platform for free—perfect for a quick dip!
• Visit the centrally-located Cathedral of Sorrento free of charge.
• Stroll down the narrow streets of old Sorrento and admire the colorful buildings and shops. Walking around the main town won’t cost you a dime—unless you’re one for souvenirs. In which case, negotiate!
• For a quick bite to eat, try a panino at Sorrento’s best: N’hambu  for about €8.50
• Fancy a day trip? Ferries to Capri are quicker and cheaper if you take the day trip from Sorrento instead of Positano. The 25-minute ride will be about €20 to €25.

In Positano:

• Looking for the perfect spot for your first Positano Instagram post? Casually stroll into the fancy Le Sirenuse and ask them if you can take a quick snap from the lobby balcony. They’re very friendly and generous with their stunning viewpoint—it won’t cost you a dime!
• Skip the touristy main beach and take a 5-minute walk around the corner from the Hotel Covo dei Saraceni to the more hidden Spiaggia Fornillo . This is where you can catch the sun rays for free with the other insiders.
• Hop back on the Sita Bus for the 45-minute ride into Amalfi (€4). Spend the afternoon exploring the small town and its beautiful church .

There are so many great restaurants on the Amalfi Coast . But to help you dive into the local cuisine without sacrificing an arm and a leg, here are some recommended places to eat and what to try there.

• Looking for lunch? Try one of Kebab Ciampa ‘s fresh sandwiches.
• Order a coffee at Puro .
• Enjoy anything seafood at Chef Squillante !
• You have to try the homemade seafood pasta at Ristorante il Borgo !
• The smoothie bowl at Casa e Bottega is the perfect go-to for a hot day.
• Go to Bar Bagni da Ferdinando for the seafood salad—fresh as it gets!
• You can’t go wrong with anything grilled at C’era una Volta .
• Try the ravioli at La Taverna del Leone —it’s delicious!

Here’s Where To Stay in Italy’s Most Popular Destinations

Rome , Florence , Venice , Amalfi Coast , and Capri

Best Hotels & Where to Stay

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Why the outrageously elegant Amalfi Coast will always conjure up Mister Ripley

By Delilah Khomo

No question: for visual drama the Amalfi Coast will always conjure up Mister Ripley. The never-ending vistas. The ivy clad palazzi and vintage motor launches. The negronis. Greco di Tufo and Vongole at Da Adolfo. And the most mythical hideaways. With their inestimable class and style , these are the playboys of the Italian hotel scene: rich, decadent and so refined, with the essential whiff of glamour that makes them such one-offs. Here is retro magic at its best. So put on those Cutler and Gross oversized shades and think of Marge Sherwood.

BORGO SANTANDREA

Amalfi Coast

This is exactly the kind of place a modern-day Dickie Greenleaf and Marge Greenwood would check in this summer. Up the Costiera from Amalfi town, it’s the most lavish new hotel on the waterside: a white icing-sugar set that cascades down to the coves of a centuries-old fishing village called Conca dei Marini down by the water. Here, the beach club looks glamorous but not bling, cool but not intimidating; and since it’s landfall for all the best boats, definitely splashy, with tenders constantly pulling up to its jetty. You know you’re where you want to be. Such space and sense of peace is hard to find on this coast. But here, you’re greeted with generously spread-out sunbeds across rocks and a pebble beach.Then there’s lunch: a slick affair with a wide array of spritzes – that with hibiscus is a must – as well as pizzas with five kinds of mozzarella, a standout local pasta al coultura (a creamy anchovy sauce), platters of grilled swordfish, red prawns and whatever else is fresh that day. The bar carved into a cave is a chic hangout, with plenty of black and white striped cushions to lounge on. Across this multi-layered property, there’s a sensational flow between inside to out, maximising those epic views of the horizon. The interiors are all about soothing, contemporary design conjuring up a Gio Ponti fantasy, so beautifully decorated with blue and white tiles from nearby Vietri Sul Mare.

But here everything is of serious quality. Aperitivo hour on the terrace, when – the bar staff shake up the most elegant variation of a Gimlet with blueberries and basil syrup – is pure White Lotus-meets-Mister Ripley. And while there is a more ‘gastronomic’ restaurant that takes in that Tyrrhenian panorama, Marinella is where you want to be. Down by the water, with the Franciacorta on ice when you arrive, it serves refined, sunny Ischian wines and a theatrical salt-baked sea bass with chargrilled chicory.

https://borgosantandrea.it/

VILLA TREVILLE

The undisputed diva of the Amalfi Coast, it’s from another place, another time. And being the former home of opera and film director Franco Zeffirelli, would you expect anything less? It was love at first sight for the ‘Maestro’, who discovered the haven in 1941, and years later discovered Tre Ville after being invited for lunch by its then-custodian, the Duchess of Villarosa. (He described it thus: ‘Through the foliage were romantic glimpses of Positano, an opera set over which the occasional clouds of summer mist poured like dry ice, so thoroughly unreal was the whole vision.’) He would later buy and lavish all his theatricality on the property, making it his sanctuary and creative space, as well as the setting for his renowned parties. But its hedonistic history goes further back than Zeffirelli, to the years when it belonged to the Russian writer Mikhail Semenov: he entertained the Ballets Russes here, and is rumoured to have removed a floor so that Nijinksy could dance. And its sensory seduction remains unsurpassed, as befits a place where the guests have numbered everyone from Liza Minelli – who had a piano brought over from Naples – to Rudolf Nureyev, who smashed its mosaic tables and urns when the best bedroom was given to the actor Gregory Peck. Today, too special to be a hotel, it’s more of a ‘museum mansion’. Pathways meander beneath ancient trees to various terraces and garden hangouts, among them a spa housed in a set from La Traviata. And you can still hole up in Zeffirelli ‘s old quarters, as idiosyncratic as they are romantic and ravishingly redecorated in his honour. (Blinding white, its library is filled with his books.) Then there’s a fabulous suite dedicated to Leonard Bernstein, featuring a foliage-shaded outdoor bath where you can avoid the gaze of curious yachties and the paparazzi's lens. And a suite dedicated to Maria Callas. But what to do? Drink cocktails in the Moorish Bianca Bar, overlooking the gleaming set of Positano? Eat vongole at Maestro’s restaurant – or whatever chef Vincenzo Castaldo has picked from the garden and whipped up? A highlight is surely dinner on its terrace: the food of the gods served somewhere they would love to eat. The definition of sublime.

https://villatreville.com/en

LE SIRENUSE

You’re truly in the territory of the sirens; not just the mythical creatures that seduced sailors in The Odyssey , but the screen variety, too. And this Pompeiian-red palazzo, smouldering on a Positano clifftop, continues to lure stars, superyachts and tycoons. In the last 73 years, and in the course of three generations, the Sersales have so tangibly poured their love into this hotel that it has become one of the wonders of Italy. And oh, the glamour: be it in the contemporary art on the walls – including works by Alex Israel, Rita Ackermann and Stanley Whitney – or this season, the makeover of the hotel pool by Swiss artist Nicolas Party. Take the outrageously elegant 1972 Riva Aquarama speedboat that’s available for hire. Behold as well the delicious individuality; in particular, the peachy lighting which owes its origins to hotelier Antonio Sersale buying the last batch of a specific vintage bulb. (Experience its gentle glow in the hotel’s La Sponda restaurant, where the finesse of the innovative pasta dishes is equally enchanting.) And note such touches as the yearly, six-day Dolce Vitality programmes of yoga and trekking. But the hotel’s hold on its clientele actually derives from its simple warmth and soul. The secret weapons in the arsenal of Antonio and his wife Carla are their two sons, Francesco and Aldo, who both have an invigorating take on Le Sirenuse – and on Positano. Aldo studied at l’École hôtelière de Lausanne, cut his teeth at the Mandarin Oriental NYC and is now in charge of food and beverages and oversees operations at Le Sirenuse. Francesco, previously a talent agent, has a keen interest in marketing and branding. Together, they totally get the zeitgeist and could easily earn an outstanding rating just for their easy charm and extensive knowledge of the region.

https://sirenuse.it/en/

IL SAN PIETRO DI POSITANO

This is not a place to hold back, especially when a white jacketed-waiter serves you a slice of margherita pizza from a silver platter as an amuse-bouche. But then, the extraordinary is the norm at this beachside pleasuredome, founded by the ebullient and visionary hotelier Carlo Cinque on a promontory just outside Positano in 1970. Today, his family still maintains this cascading property’s charming sense of place. (Take the eccentric touch of a black-painted British telephone booth at the entrance, not to mention the world’s most spectacular tennis courts right by the water’s edge.) It’s like taking a sepia-tinted trip back to a Slim-Aarons shoot, from the moment you step onto the terrace and take the lift from reception down to the beach: carved into the rocks, it’s an extraordinary engineering feat; and a most glamorous time-travel experience. Of course, the beach-dining here is unsurpassed. Carlino’s, named after the hotel’s elegant creator, is renowned for a menu that tastes of summer: buttery lemon spaghetti, grilled seafood and a delightful pistachio panna cotta, served with a pale rosé from Tenuta San Francesco. However, the more formal Zass restaurant is the star. Genuinely gourmet without paying obeisance to the cordon-bleu canon,  it does interesting takes on tuna tartare, tagliatelle with lobster and pistachios, and turbot with a truffle bearnaise. The staff are so charming and the service throughout is unparalleled

ilsanpietro.com

MONASTERO SANTA ROSA

Some landscapes remind you of all the beauty in the world. This patch of parched paradise soaring high above Amalfi just along the coast is one of them. Holy houses have always been a refuge for the heartsore; but if you're fed up with life, nowhere can deliver seclusion and sanctuary quite as elegantly as this former 17th-century monastery, with its endless vistas across the Tyrrhenian Sea. And while expectations of any of the jewel-hotels on this stretch of coast are sky-high, this place is truly magic, especially with general manager Ferdinando at the helm. Not only does Signor Alfano run the establishment with genuine kindness and finesse, he can also arrange some of the most breathtaking hikes – in terms both of aesthetics and strenuousness – along the ‘Path of the Gods’, seeking out waterfalls and Dominican monasteries. To return at the end of the day and go straight into the sensory ritual of a Santa Maria Novella massage, with warm candle-wax dripped on your back, is such a sybaritic and spiritual high that you will use the term ‘divine’ in a whole new way. And that’s before you’ve seen the gardens, with a hidden grotto for Our Lady, that cascade down to the infinity pool. They'll leave you speechless; as will chef Alfonso Crescenzo’s creations, which more than hold their own against those epic views. His cuisine is an inspired love-letter to the Campania region, its highlights including taglioni with sea urchins and truffle – an unusual but addictive combination – and a memorable Mozzarella in Carrozza featuring flag fish and wild garlic. Just pray that, in summer, you can get a reservation.

https://monasterosantarosa.com/

HOTEL SANTA CATERINA

This Amalfi institution is Sophia Loren in hotel-form. And it remains the leading lady of the region – an infinitely reassuring and cherished place to stay – thanks to a hotelier family (the Gambardellas) who, four generations on, continue to value such a pure sense of old-world glamour. You’ll see it in the chandeliers, the wisteria-cloaked terraces and the Italianate tiles, still as they have always been. Or in the finesse of the Torta Paradiso at breakfast, and bellinis and the lemon-scented iced flannels by the pool. Or in the colonnaded elegance of the gardens, heaving with statuary and scattered with some of the most romantic suites. (Ask for the Giulietta e Romeo, which is like a gingerbread cottage suspended above the waves.) And there are few culinary experiences that can rival dining at Al Mare, under the sun-baked bamboo and rattan ceiling of this illustrious beachside restaurant, overlooking the pool and the sea lapping beyond. Follow maitre d’ Mimmo’s lead and try the burrata and red prawns sprinkled with caviar, followed by some exceptional grilled seafood – and the tiramisu of dreams.

www.hotelsantacaterina.it

By Harriet Johnston

By Isaac Bickerstaff

7 of the best places to cruise in Italy

F ew countries can compete with Italy’s tourist appeal . Anyone who visits can enjoy fantastic cities, quaint villages, a string of picture-perfect coastlines, amazing cuisine and a fascinating history.

Alhough skiing , city breaks or a trip to one of the Italian lakes all have their own merits, there is a way to get a taste of several different parts of the country in one whirlwind trip.

Cruises around the Bel Paese give passengers the opportunity to see Italy ’s full range of sights. You can start with the romance of Venice and wind around to the rugged island beauty of Sicily and Sardinia, or begin surrounded by the stark coastal beauty of the Cinque Terre and end in hectic, characterful Naples , via the enchanting capital of Rome .

Whether you just want to see one destination or a handful, there’s likely a cruise to suit you; we’ve rounded up some of the best below.

Amalfi Coast

The Amalfi Coast contains a little bit of everything that has made Italy so famous: beautiful coastlines, golden sands, picturesque towns, ancient historic sites and a hearty slice of la dolce vita .

The main towns along this coast include Amalfi, Sorrento and Positano , each renowned for offering a taste of the highlife in often luxurious surroundings, whether that be laid-back beaches or grandiose hotels. Pompeii lies close to these towns, offering an incredible insight into a famous bit of world history, while driving part of the Amalfi Coast’s winding roads is the best way to get amazing views while taking in some delightful towns.

How to do it

See both Sicily and the Amalfi Coast with the ‘ Amalfi & Sicily ’ seven-night package offered by Star Clippers. It starts in Civitavecchia, taking you to Amalfi and Sorrento before moving on to Messina and circling back to Rome.

Prices from £3,629pp including seven nights’ accommodation, all meals and drinks and select entertainment. Departing 6 July 2024.

Read more on the best hotels on the Amalfi coast

The capital is a beautiful fusion of historic and contemporary Italian life, from the modern cuisine and nightlife of Monti to the old houses and trattorias of Trastevere or Parione.

The Eternal City is also Europe’s most landmark-filled destination , with everything from Roman ruins to 18th-century fountains. The Colosseum, Roman Forum and Pantheon are the undoubtably highlights, as are the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain. The Vatican City is also contained within Rome, and you don’t want to miss the Sistine Chapel or St Peter’s Basilica.

Most cruises to this part of the country actually dock at nearby Civitavecchia, which is roughly one hour from the capital. Rome is often a starting point for cruises too, as passengers can head north to the Cinque Terre, east to Sardinia and south to Naples and Sicily.

The  Italian Treasures  cruise offered by Atlas Ocean Voyages begins in Valletta , the historic Maltese capital, but after departing very much focuses on the eastern Italian coast. It stops for a night in both Syracuse and Giardini Naxos (on Sicily), before departing to the Amalfi Coast and Capri and then finishing in the capital, where you can explore at your leisure before flying home.

Prices from £2,946pp including eight nights’ accommodation, all meals and drinks and onshore excursions. The company is currently running a promotion where the ‘second guest sails free’, so it is possible to get the entire package for just £2,946. Departing 1 September 2024.

Read more on the best hotels in Rome

Venice is perhaps the most beautiful of all Italian cities, situated on a vast lagoon and criss-crossed by dozens of bridges that hang over its canals. Its waterways are lined with the colourful facades of centuries-old buildings, many of which carry a Venetian style that is unique to the city, making for an eclectic cityscape.

A gondola trip, a stroll around St Mark’s Square, a walk over the Ponte Rialto and a visit to the Doge’s Palace are customary for those seeing the city for the first time, though for many the real attraction is getting lost in the sea of mazy alleys and historic bridges .

Many cruises start and end in Venice too, though due to its location at the top of the Adriatic, it can take a while to cruise down to other popular destinations like Bari, Sicily and the Amalfi Coast. If you’re visiting on a cruise, chances are it’ll be a longer one, or that it’ll stop in destinations in northern Croatia , Dubrovnik or northern Greece .

Azmara Cruises’ ‘ Italy Intensive Voyage ’ takes passengers all the way from Rome to Venice. It begins by going north to Florence , then turning back on itself and going south to the Amalfi Coast and Sicily. After a brief stop in Kotor, Montenegro , you’ll finish in Venice, with the opportunity to explore at your leisure before flying home.

Prices from £2,060pp including 10 nights’ accommodation, all meals and drinks, evening entertainment and select onshore excursions. Departing 10 April 2024.

Read more on the best hotels in Venice

Sicily is another of Italy’s famous islands, sharing a part of the Mediterranean with neighbouring Sardinia. It is equally as charming as Sardinia, and filled with similarly beguiling towns, a variety of natural landscapes and some of the finest culture and history that the country has to offer.

Tradition is paramount here, something that is reflected in a proud local populace. It is also visible in towns and cities like Palermo, and the timeless beauty of Syracuse, as well as on the olive groves and vineyards that dot the slopes of Mount Etna. It makes Sicily a great place to come if you want to see modern-day Italian living with a dose of outdoor adventure, in places like the Parco dell’Etna, along with historic charm (such as that at Syracuse).

Windstar Cruises’ ‘ Sicilian Spendours ’ cruise begins and ends in the Italian capital, but as the name suggests, this trip very much focuses on the largest island in the Mediterranean. It begins by heading to the Amalfi Coast, but then moves on to three Sicilian towns – Trapani, Porto Empedocle and Catania, via Gozo and Malta .

Prices from £3,105pp including 10 nights’ accommodation, meals and onboard entertainment. Departing 28 May 2024.

Read more on the best hotels in Sicily

Sardinia, which sits off the eastern coast around six hours from Civitavecchia by ferry, is one of Italy’s most popular summer destinations. A favourite among both tourists and Italians, it is home to a slew of great beaches – including Cala Goloritzé and the Costa Smerelda – and so is a good choice for days spent flitting between water sports and lying in the sun.

Though it’s understandable if you want to spend most of your time here on the sands, it would be remiss not to visit some of the pastel-hued towns and verdant national parks that lie inland and on the coast. Places like Alghero, Bosa and San Teodoro contain plenty of history throughout their cobbled streets, while Asinara and Gennargentu are two of the most picturesque natural areas.

Sardinia’s southerly location means that cruises that stop here often carry on to Sicily and Malta, and may go further on to the Balearics, Greek islands or even Tunisia .

The ‘ Enchanting Italian Coastlines ’ tour from Emerald Cruises covers both Sardinia and the eastern coast over a period of seven nights. It begins in the capital, moving first to Sorrento and Amalfi and then crossing the Mediterranean to Sardinia and Corsica before looping back.

Prices from £3,379pp including seven nights’ accommodation, all meals and drinks and airport transfers. Departing 27 April 2024.

Cinque Terre

The Cinque Terre competes with the Amalfi Coast for the title of Italy’s most famous coastal area, but the Italian Riviera offers a different kind of beauty in its emerald waters and pastel-coloured towns. The region is part of Liguria, and consists of five villages: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. 

Each one has an abundance of old Italian charm, from the faded colours that come alive at sunset to the mazes of alleys leading up from tiny harbours. Only Monterosso has a proper beach, but this village quintet isn’t the place for solely a beach holiday, despite the coastlines. Instead, wander aimlessly through the villages, enjoy a laid-back meal or take to any of the surrounding hiking paths.

These once isolated villages are now tourist hotspots in their own right, with the Cinque Terre Express one of the best ways to get between them. Most cruises dock at La Spezia, the province’s main city, which lies just 20 minutes from the nearest Cinque Terre village, Riomaggiore.

The Cinque Terre is a less frequented destination on longer cruises, so the best bet is to visit as part of a multi-country cruise. Celebrity Cruises offers one such option with their ‘ Italian Riviera & France ’ package, which departs from Rome and initially heads south to Naples before circling around to La Spezia and Santa Margherita. After some time spent enjoying the Italian Riviera, you move on to the French one, seeing Cannes and Marseille before finishing in Barcelona.

Prices from £1,209pp including nine nights’ accommodation, return flights, all meals, daily activities and entertainment. Departing 4 June 2024.

Naples is a fascinating city, buoyed by a vibrant and chaotic energy and blessed with beautiful surroundings – including Mount Vesuvius and an azure bay – and an eclectic blend of architecture.

The city itself has a wealth of culture and history, from the recent and immaterial – such as its devotion to pizza or its football club – to the ancient and pertinent, including the Duomo cathedral and a large collection of Greco-Roman artefacts at the National Archaeological Museum. Be sure to talk a walk around the Spanish Quarter, Centro Storico and Spaccanapoli (the city’s main thoroughfare) to get a real sense of how life is lived in this hectic city.

Naples is the closest major city to the Amalfi Coast, and as such many trips here are combined with a visit to towns like Sorrento or Positano.

You’re spoilt for choice when including Naples in a cruise itinerary, and many cruises that stop here also include visits to parts of Greece and Croatia. A seven-day Mediterranean cruise from Norwegian Cruise Line takes advantage of these stops, taking guests from Rome to Venice via Valletta, Split and Corfu. Nevertheless, the focus is still on Italy, taking in the historic capital, the romantic canals of Venice and all of Naples’ characterful chaos (with an added stop in Messina, Sicily).

Prices from £1,573pp including seven nights’ accommodation, all meals and drinks and onboard entertainment. Departing 14 August 2024.

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Upstaging Umbria: rugged and seductive Le Marche

Far wilder and less populated than its more fashionable neighbours, Le Marche offers spectacular mountains and a stunning coastline with none of the super-charged prices

W e are lounging on the terrace of Lapis Turris, a medieval watchtower high in the Sibillini mountains, taking it in turns to name films that remind us of the extraordinary landscape that wraps itself around us. Game of Thrones? Skull Island in King Kong? Tolkien’s Rivendell? It’s difficult to pick; this stunning, empty wilderness is Italy’s answer to all three.

Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini, in Le Marche’s mountainous southwest, is full of dense wooded hills, craggy peaks and lush green valleys. It is far wilder – and less populated – than neighbouring Tuscany and Umbria. You can go for days here before you spot anyone, let alone a tourist. It’s also a paradise for hikers and serious mountain bikers – with 10 peaks over 2,000m. Le Marche’s capital is Ancona – four hours from Rome by train.

Once you tire of the hills, the pretty beach towns on the Adriatic are perfect for a day trip – around a 90-minute drive to the coast. If all that isn’t seductive enough, there’s the cost – or relative lack of it. It’s one of the few places where you find yourself querying the bill for the novel fear you’ve been undercharged. An Aperol spritz in any of the local bars costs about €4 and pizzas are likely to be no more than €6.

Our closest town is Amandola, with ancient winding streets that lead on to Piazza Risorgimento, the old main square. Lined with bars and cafés, it’s the ideal stop for an aperitivo and is well stocked for food, with two supermarkets close by. We’re spoilt for choice with another picturesque local gem, the village of Montefortino. Perched on a neighbouring hill, it looks as if it’s been chiselled from marble. At sunset it gleams pink.

We visit on the second day and it doesn’t disappoint. A steep climb through the village leads us to a stunning panorama at the top with the Sibillini peaks laid out before us. It is eerily empty, though, as we are the only ones here to enjoy the view – except for the swallows. We retrace our steps to the foot of the village and stop at the Blu Bar Caffè, a pizzeria that is reassuringly lively and crowded. Locals queue for the delicious appetisers – st uzzichini – slices of pizza bianco, bruschetta and crostini. For about €5 each, we order plate after plate, washed down with beer, spritz and affogato to finish.

The real draw of this area are the contrasts and surprises. The mountain scenery may be spectacular, but there is also a sandy coastline to explore. We head for Sirolo, a pretty seaside town popular with Italian holidaymakers. It’s easy to see why it’s known as “the pearl of the Adriatic”, with its creamy pastel houses and turquoise shutters, and the piazza overlooking an azure sea.

The small town slopes gently towards the beach, which we reach through a strip of pine forest. It’s a steep descent and at the end of it is Spiagga di San Michele, a stunning sweep of fine white shingle and clear, crystalline water. We float on our backs in the sea looking up at the town framed by white cliffs and green hills beyond.

After a swim and a sunbathe, there’s one thing on our mind – no trip to the Italian coast is complete without a plate of spaghetti alle vongole. We stumble on a terrific place, Ristorante Vittoria – La Terrazza sul Mare – set back from the beach with a shaded terrace overlooking the ocean. It is one of those memorable meals that you hope for just once on any holiday, but can never guarantee. We strike lucky: sea-fresh frittura calamari , gamberi , antipasto di mare and vongole, augmented with salty chips, cheap prosecco and a stunning slice of the Adriatic. It’s as delightful a setting as anywhere you’d find on the Amalfi coast, but at a fraction of the price.

We amble slowly back up the hill to Sirolo, explore the maze of alleyways full of cafés and tempting boutiques, but stop only to look around Chiesa San Nicola di Bari, an 18th-century church with a stunning painted ceiling and ornate glass chandeliers. Outside, an ice-cream at Gelateria Artigianale is well worth the queue and, strolling back, our only regret is running out of time to stop at Il Grillo, a beautiful bar with tables overlooking the main street.

Back home at Lapis Turris, we settle down to another remote al fresco evening. It’s also pleasantly cool and mosquito-free, even when temperatures rise, thanks to its location 800m above sea level.

If you can bear to tear yourself away from the swimming pool and hot tub, quite an achievement in itself, there’s a small gate in the garden that leads to hiking trails. Easy-to-follow signs take you through rolling green hills and across a river with a gentle ascent of one peak – the view back towards the watchtower is well worth the climb.

Dating back to the 1080s, Lapis Turris is Le Marche’s oldest fortification, built to defend against the regular threat of an Umbrian attack. It must have been quite successful – one of the lower bedrooms is, reputedly, where prisoners were kept. Ten centuries later, it’s been lovingly converted by its owner into two apartments, which works well for two families sharing.

Medieval and solid, everything here is carved out of ancient rock: the tables and seats, the terraces and even a mini amphitheatre, which is floodlit at night – for special occasions, you can book a small orchestra to play. Or preferably just savour the nightly symphony of cicadas and the sound of water rushing through the woods below.

Lapis Turris sleeps up to nine people across two apartments, from £3,993 for seven nights – or £443pp – through Oliver’s Travels. For more details go to oliverstravels.com

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