is 100mm travel enough for jumps

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Results have arrived, mtb travel - how much mtb suspension travel do you need what does it mean.

Do you want more suspension travel or less? How do you know how much you need? Here's how to decide whether a long-travel or short-travel MTB is better for you and your trails.

Written by: Bruce Lin

Published on: Mar 9, 2022

Posted in: MTB

You’re going to a big, important party, but you’re iffy about the dress code. Would you rather show up overdressed or underdressed?

A lot of mountain bikers face a similar dilemma, but instead of choosing the right clothes, it’s about choosing the right bike. You've probably heard certain bikes described as “too much bike” or “not enough bike.” But what does that mean?

In mountain biking, suspension travel often receives the most attention when riders are looking at bike specs. Depending on your skill, riding style, and terrain, there is likely an ideal amount of suspension travel. Other specs such as geometry , wheels , and tires  matter too, but they are usually tailored to match a bike's suspension.

Most modern mountain bikes will have somewhere between 100mm and 170mm of suspension travel. This covers everything from cross-country race machines to versatile mid-travel trail bikes to hard-hitting enduro bikes . (If you want to learn more about how mountain bikes are categorized check out our Mountain Bike Buyer’s Guide .)

So what's the right amount of travel for you?

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MTB travel basics: what is travel on a mountain bike?

In case you're new to riding, mountain bike suspension travel is a measurement of how much a wheel can move to absorb bumps. On the front, mountain bike travel comes from your suspension fork. At the rear, MTB travel is provided by some configuration of frame pivots that compress a rear shock.

When to choose a long-travel MTB

Long-travel bikes usually have 150-170mm of rear travel to handle tough downhill trails. Front travel often matches rear travel but sometimes can be more.

Trail and enduro bikes fall into this category. They absorb big hits and smooth out rough terrain. If you regularly ride steep or gnarly trails, a bike like this makes a lot of sense. 

If you're mostly riding mellow flow trails though, a big and burly long-travel bike might be overkill. You won't be able to use all the suspension travel you paid for. The bike may feel cumbersome, maybe a bit boring, and you’ll have to expend more energy to push it around and climb uphill.

But let’s say you lack confidence on descents. A more capable enduro bike with ample suspension travel could help you enjoy riding more by increasing your confidence, comfort, and giving you more margin for error. 

Some ride big and burly bikes everywhere because they're fit enough to pedal a long-travel bike up big climbs and on long rides without much trouble. For them, being overbiked isn't a handicap, and it's worth it for when the trail gets gnarly. If you care more about descending as fast as possible more than having a bike that's efficient for pedaling or climbing, long-travel bikes will cater more to your style.

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When to choose a short-travel MTB

Short-travel bikes usually have 100-120mm of travel to maximize efficiency. In some cases, these bikes could have forks with 10-20mm more travel to make them more versatile on descents.

XC and short-travel trail bikes fall into this category. They are efficient and usually feel more agile than longer-travel bikes. If you race cross-country, do long adventure rides, or stick to mellow trails, these are the best option.

If you venture onto steep and gnarly downhill tracks with big rocks and jumps, a short-travel bike will start to feel sketchy. There’s a good chance you’ll have to ride slower and more cautiously than you would on a long-travel bike, taking easier lines and occasionally skipping tough sections.

But let’s say you dread going uphill and are constantly getting dropped by fitter riders. A bike with less travel that’s lighter and more efficient could help you go faster and expend less energy. 

If you’re a skilled rider that just wants to make riding more exciting, short-travel bikes provide a lot more trail feedback and give you less room for error. You have to stay focused, be more selective about lines, and be more active with your body. For some, this can be a more enjoyable ride experience than just sitting back and letting a long-travel bike do the hard work for you.

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So how much suspension travel do I need?

Seth H., Merchandising Manager   "I started on an XC hardtail and rode everything, even gnarly downhills on it. It had a dropper and I did just fine. I really thought it was all I would ever need. Then I went to Moab. I rode a borrowed enduro bike on The Whole Enchilada and it kind of opened my eyes. I bought a bigger bike not long after and started riding all my regular trails again. It changed how I rode.

"Personally, I really don’t mind being overbiked for most of my riding now. I ride alone a lot so I go my own pace. But I'm also decently fit and I can keep up with everyone I ride with on my bigger bike (an Ibis Ripmo). If you’re fit, I say go as big as you want."

Chad H., Warehouse Manager   "I would prefer to be underbiked on the majority of trails. Being underbiked keeps the skills sharp and makes the trail an exciting challenge. I feel that being overbiked takes the challenge and excitement out of trails. It leads to laziness and dulls your skill as a rider.

"Right now for me, I believe the best bike for 85 percent of the riding I do will be a full suspension cross country bike, like the Santa Cruz Blur. I would add a dropper seatpost and Fox Step-Cast 34 120mm fork just to give it a tiny bit more capability. Or the new Trek Top Fuel, or possibly a Yeti SB100 are good options. It's what people are calling 'downcountry' now, even though I hate the term. It will be a little bit more capable than a full cross country bike, but it’ll have the same quick handling and speed. That'll be perfect for me." 

What about mid-travel "quiver-killer" mountain bikes?

I always keep at least two mountain bikes in my quiver: a long-travel enduro bike and a short-travel XC bike. This lets me tackle everything from downhill bike parks to short-track XC races. But for many riders, a mid-travel trail bike is all you need.

Mid-travel bikes are a good compromise between downhill performance and pedaling/climbing efficiency. They usually have 120-140mm of travel. Many call these bikes "quiver-killers," because they can do it all (well, almost). I even spent a full season on a quiver-killer , just to see how well it worked for a wide range of riding and was pleasantly surprised by how versatile it actually was.

However, these bikes don't completely excel at anything. A longer-travel bike will be better downhill and a shorter travel bike will be more efficient for racing. Ultimately, if you can only have one bike for casual riding, or you're unsure what type of mountain bike you need for your local trails, this category is the best option. 

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How to choose a mountain bike

Are your trails rough and rocky or smooth and flowy? Are they fast and steep or tight and technical? Your terrain has a big impact on bike selection. Generally, the rougher, steeper, and faster a trail is, the more travel you'll want and vice versa. 

The second step is to know yourself. Your riding ambition is nearly as important as terrain. If you are a ripper who lives for downhills, you'll probably want to support yourself with more travel. But if your ride fantasy involves conquering high mountains, and exploring miles of backcountry trails, you might want to stay light and efficient with less travel.

No matter what, it's possible to have fun riding any bike, and having the ideal amount of suspension travel isn't everything. Keep in mind too that the rider is always going to make a far bigger difference than the bike. Fast descenders drop me on gnarly downhills riding XC hardtails, and fit climbers drop me on uphills riding heavy enduro machines. Good riders take what they have, and make it work. 

That being said, you can always play to your strengths or weaknesses. Having a bike that enhances the parts of riding that you care about the most will make mountain biking more fun. 

Are you overbiked or underbiked for your trails? Do you prefer long travel or short travel? Or do you have a bike that sits somewhere in the middle? Let us know in the comments!

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How much suspension travel do I need on my mountain bike?

From cross-country to downhill, we take you through how much travel you can expect on the major types of mountain bike

Andy Lloyd / Our Media

Mountain bikes feature different amounts of suspension travel depending on the type of riding they're designed for.

Suspension travel describes the amount of movement a suspension fork or rear shock has. It is usually a measurement of how far the wheel axle moves in a vertical or near-vertical plane as the suspension compresses.

Depending on the discipline of riding the bike is designed for, the suspension travel can vary from 80 to 200mm. While more travel may seem better, helping you soak up lumps and bumps, it can be a hindrance if your riding includes lots of climbing or you benefit from a light, responsive bike.

This means deciding on the right amount of travel for your needs can be difficult, but there are a few factors to keep in mind, including your riding style and the type of trails and terrain you'll be tackling.

Bike manufacturers design their mountain bikes around different travel lengths, tailored to specific terrains or riding disciplines, and categorise the bikes accordingly. As a result, looking at the different categories of mountain bikes, their intended application and travel length is a handy way to determine how much travel you need and what bike you should get.

In this guide, we’ll explain the different mountain bike categories and how much suspension travel they typically have.

Cross-country mountain bikes

The best cross-country mountain bikes are designed to compete in high-level, fast races, where lightness and pedalling efficiency are often the keys to success.

Typically, cross-country bikes have featured 80 to 100mm of travel. Because cross-country race courses have become more extreme and technical, it is now common to see bikes designed around 120mm travel front and rear, such as Scott’s Spark RC .

Using less suspension travel than other mountain bikes means cross-country bikes can be built with a lighter frame construction because less reinforcement is needed to deal with the lower frame articulation. This helps riders race up the kinds of inclines that characterise XC races .

The short-travel forks used on cross-country bikes also help to keep weight down because they utilise a lighter chassis and narrower stanchions, usually 30 to 32mm in diameter.

Stanchions are the part of the fork connected to the crown and remain rigid to the bike while the lowers move up and down over them.

The trade-off for this weight saving comes in the form of fork flex, which impacts the directness of steering inputs and the overall ability of the fork to perform in gnarlier terrain as friction levels build on the seals.

A short-travel fork will also run out of travel quicker compared to one with more travel. Although setup and damper performance will dictate a lot of factors in how proficiently it absorbs bumps, less travel means it won't absorb bigger bumps as well as a long-travel fork.

Hardtail mountain bikes are also well-represented in cross-country, because rigid frames allow for the highest pedalling efficiency. However, the traction and descending ability of full-suspension bikes make them desirable to many riders.

Downcountry mountain bikes

Downcountry bikes aim to balance a cross-country bike's efficiency with a trail bike's downhill capability.

‘Downcountry’ is a relatively new mountain bike discipline and isn’t that well defined as a result. But in terms of suspension, these bikes range from beefed up cross-country at 110mm of travel, to lightweight trail with around 130mm front and rear travel.

Having slightly more travel than an outright cross-country bike means downcountry bikes are more capable on descents. However, with shorter travel than trail bikes, they still offer greater pedalling efficiency than burlier bikes.

Downcountry bike frames can be made lighter than trail bikes because the demand on the frame is less. This means they require less material in their construction because they don’t require the same amount of strength as a trail or enduro bike needs.

Downcountry bikes usually feature stronger, stiffer forks, with thicker stanchions, usually 34mm in diameter. This gives higher levels of rigidity to the fork, making steering inputs more direct, although concessions are still made to weight savings.

Trail mountain bikes

Trail bikes are one of the most popular types of mountain bike. They are designed to straddle the line between enduro bikes and cross-country bikes, providing a ride that’s fun but capable.

Confident on descents and fairly capable on climbs, trail bikes typically have between 120 and 160mm of suspension travel.

Trail bikes at the longer end of the suspension-travel spectrum cross the boundary into all-mountain. Typically, these bikes will feature beefier frame construction to deal with the added suspension travel.

The optimum amount of travel depends on what terrain or trails you like to ride, and where you’d like to progress with your riding. 140mm is ideal for even the toughest trail centres, with more travel being required for gnarlier ambitions.

Forks with mid-sized stanchions, either 34mm, 35mm or 36mm in diameter, are common on trail bikes. These shift the balance away from lightness toward rigid stability for better handling while descending. Less flexibility in the fork will mean more direct steering input, making the bike feel more planted through the rough stuff.

Enduro mountain bikes

Enduro bikes are designed to meet the demands of enduro racing , which consists of multiple downhill stages that riders have to reach within a set time limit. As a result, enduro bikes have to perform well on technical descents while providing a decent pedalling platform to get you to the top of the trail in good time.

Travel for enduro bikes starts at 150mm and ranges up to 180mm. There is a 190mm-travel version of RockShox’s enduro-focused ZEB fork, but you’re more likely to see this attached to a freeride or bike park bike.

Enduro bikes require a burly frame construction in order to cope with the demands of downhill trails.

Head tubes have to be stronger to deal with the extra force coming from the long-travel fork, while the rear linkage has to be able to support the extra articulation.

This added frame construction makes the frame heavier, impacting efficiency when going uphill, but the pay-off is worth it when coming back down.

Forks within this travel range prioritise rigidity over weight savings, with thicker stanchions of 36mm to 38mm, providing direct steering inputs and a solid feel as you ride over gnarly terrain.

Downhill mountain bikes

Downhill bikes are designed for, you guessed it, riding downhill. The discipline doesn’t require the bike to be pedalled on uphill or even flat terrain, enabling designers to focus solely on providing the best platform for descending steep and technical trails.

These bikes feature some of the longest suspension travel, ranging from 180 to 200mm, helping to protect riders from large, repeated impacts.

Frames have to be built to the highest strength levels to cope with the impacts you experience on downhill trails. Although downhill frames are heavier than those intended for other disciplines, it's less important to have light frames because you’re not pedalling them uphill.

Downhill forks feature the thickest stanchion, ranging from 35 to 40mm in diameter, because they deal with the most extreme terrain and require the greatest rigidity.

Weight isn’t a big issue for downhill bikes, so the added heft is worth the trade-off for the performance gains.

The forks on downhill bikes have a dual-crown design, meaning the fork mounts above and below the head tube, as opposed to single-crown forks, which mount only from below. This adds more torsional stiffness to the fork, helping to keep steering inputs direct through the toughest terrain and providing strength for big impacts.

Electric mountain bikes

Electric mountain bikes are heavy, even compared to downhill bikes. The added weight a battery and motor bring means frames as well as components have to be engineered to cope with the extra weight – and contribute even more weight to the bike in the process.

Electric bikes can be categorised by the other disciplines featured in this article and will tend to feature the travel of that discipline.

The best electric mountain bikes will feature e-MTB specific forks and shocks, some with thicker stanchions for rigidity, and custom tunes that are suited to the heavier weight of the bike.

Because you’ll have a motor, there won’t be a trade-off in having a bike with more travel (and therefore weight), with the bike taking up the burden on the hills.

What about hardtail mountain bikes?

Hardtail mountain bikes have a suspension fork and a rigid rear end. They can be seen in a variety of disciplines, though are mainly represented in the cross-country and trail disciplines. They are also popular when it comes to budget mountain bikes because the simplicity of their design and less suspension means less cost.

As with other types of mountain bikes, fork travel is usually dependent on discipline. Cross-country hardtails typically have 100mm of travel, but more aggressive hardtails can have suspension travel of up to 150mm.

Some manufacturers will design frames with flex points in the rear triangle, allowing for vertical compliance in the frame. This improves comfort when sat in the saddle, and to a smaller extent rear-wheel traction while climbing.

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• This topic has 14 replies, 14 voices, and was last updated 10 years ago by iainc .
• 100mm travel enough, HT or FS

The time has come to buy a new bike, I’ve been riding HT for the last 6 years and never seen the point in having a FS again until now! Sold my hardtail and currently riding my winter warrior rigid inbred. My LBS has a few 2013 discounted bikes left, Choices are; All size medium

Hardtails; Scott scale 740 27.5 alu Scott scale carbon 630 26er Scale 920 29er FS; Scott spark 940 29er Cannondale scalpel 29er

All the above are 100mm travel, is 100mm travel enough for natural trails(north York moors etc) And trail centres like hamsterley forest, Dalby, whinlatter etc My previous HT was 120mm and was fine, Would a 100mm limit me in any way, I do drop offs, jumps(nothing big just whatever’s on the black graded routes)

Stay with Hardtail or go FS???

It’s a riders skills that lets people down rather than lack of travel so from what you have described and in my opinion I’d say 100mm travel full sus would be fine, cannondale every time

100mm will be enough. More might be better. I just converted my Soda from 100mm to 120mm, downside seems to be basically nothing so having done it, the only question is why I didn’t do it before.

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I’d suggest on a 29er 100mm is fine, on a 26er, it’s for racing.

Lots of great 29er’s out the and also loads of so-so ones too.. don’t be limited by your LBS’s stock. 😉

As for HT vs FS.. try them, only you will know what suit you. I bought a 29er HT for the winter & ended up using it all year due to limited cash flow and broken bikes. It’s been ace but I still want a FS again (29er though), come next years dry weather.

For Dalby (and all the Welsh trail centres I’ve been to), 100mm is plenty. It’s also great fun to be able to whizz by the lardy buggers on 140+ as they bob up the climbs…

Just make sure you get a good enough lead on ’em before they catch you up on the next down hill 😉

I agree with what @zippy says regarding travel. Have a look at some of the other recent threads, it seems 29ers are dying out in favour of 27.5 to the extent you agree / care.

Does it have to be new from that shop, why not buy / build a 120m 26″ bike ?

I went from 140mm hardtail to 100mm hardtail for a bit. Managed to ride the same trails just a bit slower. Took a bit of getting used to but once I got it it was fine.

Most my riding is woodsey single track stuff so didn’t miss the extra bump swallowing of the longer fork by too much. I find the geo is more important than the amount of travel. You could prepare your self to take the drop off or other large bump etc in advance and compensate for lack of travel with your body.

But when going somewhere rocky and bumpy I found I was just being shaken all over the place and could’ve done with more travel to just allow me to relax into the ride just a bit more.

I’d say that the intended use of the bike is what you should be looking at and not get too wrapped up in the travel. The bikes you list are all xc bikes, if that’s what you want then go for it. Sounds like the riding you do might be a little more than those bikes are really comfortable with, in which case I’d be looking for something a little less xc focused. I snapped an older Spark just riding trail centres so I learnt the hard way.

100mm is plenty. It’s also great fun to be able to whizz by the lardy buggers on 140+ as they bob up the climbs…

It all depends on you and your riding but I do like a zippy but comfortable bike to enjoy as long a ride as my legs can handle with a nice balance of tough climbs and scary descents. 100mm full sus does the trick.

Test riding is often difficult to arrange and even then the “feel” can be influenced a lot by the components and their set up not to mention it being tricky to get the suspension dialled within a few minutes of riding the bike. 99% of bikes all ride well and are built well nowadays so I would look for the geometry you think suits you best based on any previous bikes or tests rides and decide if there are any practicalities you really “need” or couldn’t stand such as cable routing, mud clearance, warranty maybe, ease of maintenance, etc. That would be my approach anyway- I tend to make most frames I have had ride very similarly through component spec and suspension set up as I know (or think I know) what suits me. Even so, each still had their own subtle characteristics or quirks which is what you really have to decide if you can love or loathe

From your list… Scalpel 😀

I went through the mill with this recently. 100mm or 120mm hardtail.

I got 120mm and am very happy. The fork can drop to 88mm semi lockout which is good for climbing, but 120mm is better for everything else.

I am of the opinion that 100mm is ideal for XC race. If you do more trail type riding, and maybe longer rides, the extra height on the 120mm is better, less bum-in-the-air and easier on the back and shoulders.

Also, I felt a lot of the 100mm hardtails are basically XC race bikes. Again, good if that is what you are doing.

I did run with an 80mm fork for about 6 years though. That was fine but I did have problems with sore shoulders / back on longer rides. And the difference between 80mm and 120mm is massive in terms of big shock absorption.

Thanks for all the advice

My mate rides an anthem with 120 on the front for everything in the peak he likes it and is rapid upwards

I’ve got a 10m FS 29’er and have had a 100mm HT 29’er. For how & where I ride they’re both more than enough.

The FS is more comfortable and offers better traction in the rough, the the ht was flat out faster on smoother trails & climbing

I have a 456 Carbon with 150mm RLT Revs on. I use the adjuster… Climbing is locked out, trail/singletrack in the middle and d/hill wide open. Why deny yourself the travel? A good setup on the rear can also reduce / eliminate pedal bob. My Canyon Nerve AM with a VanRC rear is just “fit, setup and forget”…

I guess it depends on where you ride but nearly everywhere off-road has some tough stuff…

Similar ish riding and went from a 140mm fs and 100mm ht to a 120mm ht (all 26) and no regrets

The topic ‘100mm travel enough, HT or FS’ is closed to new replies.

Suspension travel: Understanding fork length and how it affects your mountain bike

Forks come in varying lengths of suspension travel and stanchion sizes, this is what they mean for your riding

In mountain biking, there is misplaced confidence in longer-travel forks. With your front wheel having to steer and balance traction on those big trail features and steep descents, the logic is often that more suspension travel is better. But is this the case?

To better understand how the suspension travel of the best mountain bike forks influences your riding and what should be best for your trails, you need to understand the relationship between terrain absorption and trail feedback.

Modern mountain bike geometries are designed explicitly around suspension travel. For example, the best XC forks for cross-country mountain bikes are short-travel forks as the trails are relatively smooth and comprise lots of climbing. They need to be light and responsive while still providing a decent range of compression.

As you move through the various types of mountain bikes, fork travel requirements change. The weight, stanchion thickness, and travel all increase to meet the demands of each discipline – and longer forks aren’t superior in every application.

Cross-country: 100-120mm travel, 30-32mm stanchion diameter

Shorter travel forks are generally aimed at cross-country mountain biking , designed to balance performance, lightweight and just enough suspension travel to help smooth out bumpy singletrack. 

Cross-country forks can work with narrower 30-32mm stanchions because the upper tubes aren’t exposed to much leverage. This helps to keep the overall fork weight down.

But why shouldn’t you fit a cross-country mountain bike , recommended for maximum fork travel of 120mm, with a 130mm fork? Isn’t that a great idea? Not really.

Any increase in fork travel will slacken the bike and shorten its reach. Slacker head angles boost confidence in steep descending terrain, but they make a mountain bike less agile at climbing technical singletrack as well as unbalancing the bike by moving the rider's weight backward. It will also raise the bottom bracket which will cause the bike to feel less planted and confident in corners.

For many years 100-120mm forks were designed either as ultralight racing components or cheap beginner bike suspension. That has changed with the popularity of downcountry and there are now 120mm forks that have much stiffer crowns.

Consider the terrain you are riding. A 100- to 120mm lightweight cross-country fork will be ideal if your trails are smooth and flowing. The shorter suspension travel gives a more responsive feel and you’ll enjoy greater trail feedback through the handlebar and grips.

Shorter suspension travel forks also bob less when climbing up steep trails in a standing position. Many short travel forks further support climbing with the addition of a lockout switch.

Trail: 120-150mm travel, 34mm stanchion diameter

The best trail mountain bike market is probably the most competitive category in mountain biking and these bikes are often ridden right up to their design capabilities.

Reasonably efficient climbers and confident descending bikes, the trail machine is a hybrid between cross-country and enduro. And as you would expect, it needs a fork with more travel and stiffness than those 100-120mm options.

There has been significant development with the Fox 34 in recent years. RockShox has reacted too with its latest Pike range, blending 35mm stanchions with low fork weight.

At 150mm of suspension travel, you are probably pushing the limits of what a 34mm stanchion can deal with, especially for aggressive trail riding. The sweet spot for suspension travel and stanchion size for trail bikes would be 130- to 140mm.

Yet again, it is a tale of less being more. If you use a 34mm stanchion fork at the upper reaches of its travel, there might be a higher risk of terrain-induced steering deflection due to flex. Those roots and rocks can ping you offline, despite being sure of your steering inputs.

Too much travel can also dull the feedback of your trail bike. We recommend that a trail fork ideally have 34mm stanchions, at 130-140mm, for a 29er - possibly, up to 150mm, for the smaller 27.5in wheel size.

As fork travel increases with trail bikes, the latitude of responsiveness from your damper becomes more complex. You will see premium trail bike forks offering high- and low-speed compression adjustment, allowing riders to balance full travel benefits on gnarly terrain without having the fork dive too much in high-speed berms. 

Enduro: 150-180mm travel, 35-38mm stanchion diameter

The fork stiffness formula is simple: when adding more suspension travel increase stanchion size.

Single-crown fork design has had to go longer, with the best enduro mountain bikes now ripping down terrain once reserved for downhill rigs. RockShox and Fox introduced 38mm stanchion single-crown forks last year, especially for the riding demands of enduro mountain biking .

Having more travel is great but potentially useless if the fork internals can’t make the best use of it. That 180mm enduro fork is pointless if it blows through its travel or is entirely unresponsive to small-bump impacts.

With 150- to 180mm single-crown forks, you don’t need a lockout control for climbing, but you want to control the multiple channels of compression and rebound. Balancing the increased leverage effect and fork dive under braking in steep terrain is the crucial enabler with long-travel single-crown forks.

As a forks suspension travel lengthens, set-up becomes crucial. This is why you'll find 150- to 180mm enduro single-crown forks with intricate compression and rebound adjusters and dials. These allow riders to make the best of all that travel by configuring the damping circuits and rebound to work across all terrain.

A decade ago, the idea of a 180mm single-crown fork that could provide an adequate compression platform for pedaling uphill was unfathomable. But today’s big-hitting 38mm single-crown forks are hugely adaptable, giving riders all the precise cornering support and cushioning when landing those huge drops or landings.

Downhill: 180-200mm travel, 40mm stanchion diameter

These are the largest forks you can buy with the most suspension travel and a dual-crown design to cushion the rider from the huge, repeated impacts when riding the most technically demanding descents possible.

With the amount of leverage involved at 200mm of travel, and considering how slack the best downhill mountain bikes are, the dual-crown design is crucial. There would be enormous flex issues if you were to produce a single-crown fork at 200mm of travel and ride it down very steep and technical terrain.

Downhill riders are less bothered by weight or climbing efficiency. This frees engineers to focus all their resources on making the stiffest structure containing sophisticated internals and valving.

The speeds that downhill bikes roll over highly technical terrain require exceptional torsional stiffness at the axle to prevent riders from being deflected off-line and crashing. That dual-crown structure increases the stiffness of these long-travel forks, although steering angle is reduced, at very low speeds.

Dual-crown forks are at the complete opposite spectrum of those short-travel,100-120mm forks, with nearly rigid lockout control. Downhill mountain biking is solely about descending, with huge dampers that react intuitively to terrain impacts and help maintain the front tire's contact with the ground when cornering and braking.

• Suspension 101 : Everything you need to know about your mountain bike suspension dials
• How to adjust mountain bike suspension

Lance Branquinho is a Namibian-born journalist who graduated to mountain biking after injuries curtailed his trail running. He has a weakness for British steel hardtails, especially those which only run a single gear. As well as Bike Perfect , Lance has written for MBR.com , Off-Road.cc and Cycling News.

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Best Short-Travel Full-Suspension Mountain Bikes – 100 to 130mm

Ibis Ripley – One of the most iconic short-travel playbikes available.

Trail and Cross-Country mountain bikes offer limitless fun on various terrains. There are quite a few different mountain bike types out there, but in this review – we’ll be focusing on the lighter end of the spectrum, bikes that are considered as short travel full-suspension mountain bikes.

• You may also like:   15 Best Full-Suspension Mountain Bikes to Consider

Best Short-Travel Full-Suspension Mountain Bikes

1 . orbea – oiz h20.

Best XC Full-Suspension Mountain Bike

Aluminum / 12-Speed Shimano Deore  / 29×2.35″

MSRP: $3,599 Jenson USA

Fork : Fox 32 Float Rhythm, 120mm travel Shock : Fox i-Line DPS Performance, 120mm travel Wheels : Orbea OC1 25c

The Orbea Oiz H20 is a sleek full-suspension XC bike built for speed and efficiency. With a premium aluminum frame, quality components, and World Cup geometry, you’ll be smashing your PRs with the Oiz in no time. 

It’s ideally suited to cross-country or long-distance trail riding, with a 12-speed Shimano Deore/XT groupset that includes a 10-51T cassette.

Fox provides both the I-Line DPS Performance shock and the 32 Float Rhythm fork. To complement the lightweight Orbea OC1 rims, you get 29×2.35″ Rekon Race EXO tires.

Head tube angle: 68º / Seat tube angle: 74º / Chainstay: 435mm

Buy on Jenson USA

2 . Santa Cruz Bicycles – Blur C S

MSRP : $5,549 Evo.com

Fork: RockShox SID SL Select 100mm travel Rear Shock: RockShox SIDLuxe Select+ 100mm travel Wheels:  RaceFace AR Offset 29″

The Santa Cruz Blur is the famous MTB brand’s race-ready XC bike, designed to be lightweight, fast, and efficient. 

The Blur C S uses Santa Cruz’s more affordable carbon grade, which has excellent stiffness and strength characteristics that help maximize power transfer.

A 100mm travel RockShox SidLuxe Select+ shock is enhanced by a patented SuperLight suspension linkage that keeps the weight low but enhances rear-end traction on trickier sections. 

This build comes with a SRAM GX Eagle 12-speed, 10-50T drivetrain with Level TL hydraulic disc brakes. Other notable components include the fast-rolling Maxxis Aspen 2.4″ tires, an SDG Tellis dropper for extra descending control, and lightweight RaceFace AR Offset rims. 

Pick the Santa Cruz Blur C S if you’ve got lofty XC ambitions and the budget to match. 

Buy on evo.com

3 . Pivot – Mach 4 SL Ride

Carbon / 12-Speed Shimano XT/SLX / 29×2.2″

MSRP: $6,199 Competitive Cyclist

Fork : Fox Float 34 Performance Step-cast 120mm  Shock : Fox Performance Float DPS 100mm  Wheels : DT Swiss X1900 alloy

The Pivot Mach 4 SL Ride is a sleek full-suspension XC MTB by a lesser-know but high-end MTB manufacturer, perfect for racers who want top performance.

The full carbon frame is incredibly light and strong, built for 29″ wheels and DW-Link suspension that perfects anti-squat characteristics for a snappy, responsive feel and extra traction. This model comes with race-ready 2.2″  Maxxis Ardent Race EXO tires.

The Mach 4 SL Ride has 100mm rear and 120mm fork suspension. In addition, you’ll have ample gearing from the 12-speed Shimano XT/SLX drivetrain. Thankfully, Pivot includes a Fox Transfer Performance Elite  dropper post with 100 to 150mm travel depending on the size. 

Choose the Pivot Mach 4 if you want to take your XC riding to the next level with a bike that’s ready for aggressive riding. 

Buy from Competitive Cyclist

4 . Niner – Jet RDO 4-Star

Carbon / 12-Speed Shimano XT / 29×2.6″

MSRP: $6,799 Jenson USA

Fork : Fox 34 Float Factory GRIP2 EVOL 130mm travel Shock : Fox Float X Factory EVOL 120mm travel Wheels : DT Swiss XM-1700 Spline 30

One of the more expensive offerings on our list, this Niner full-suspension mountain bike is a burly trail/XC bike with modern trail geometry and top-quality parts.

The RDO Carbon frame features Niner’s CVA suspension platform, integrated protection, and 2.6″ tire clearance. The 130mm travel Fox Float Factory fork and 120mm Float X Factory shock provide a plush feel on rough trails while the CVA design improves the pedaling efficiency of the system. 

A 12-speed Shimano XT drivetrain comes with RaceFace Next R carbon cranks and a 10-51T cassette. 180mm rotor XT hydraulic disc brakes round out the groupset.

An unusual inclusion is the Schwalbe Nobby Nic Addix Speedgrip 2.6″ tires which are very versatile and tough but add a little more weight. Finally, you have a KS Lev SI dropper with 100 or 150mm of travel. 

Choose the Jet RDO 4-Star if you want a highly-capable trail/XC bike with innovative design features, solid components, and long-lasting quality. 

Head tube angle: 66.5º / Seat tube angle: 76º / Chainstay: 430mm

5 . Rocky Mountain – Element Alloy 30

Aluminum / 12-Speed Shimano Deore  / 29×2.4″

MSRP: $3,089 Jenson USA

Fork : RockShox Recon Gold 130mm Shock : RockShox Deluxe Select+ 120mm travel Wheels : WTB ST Light i27 TCS 2.0 TR 29″ (27.5″ on XS frame)

The 29″ Rocky Mountain Element Alloy 30 is a cross-country/trail MTB with a do-it-all personality.

The FORM alloy frame has relatively aggressive trail geometry which pairs well with a RockShox Recon Gold 130mm fork, Deluxe Select+ 120mm shock, and Toonie Drop dropper post for confident riding on most trails. 

The groupset includes Shimano’s Deore M6100 drivetrain with a  10-51T cassette with MT4100 hydraulic disc brakes. This setup and Maxxis Rekon 2.4 makes climbing easier and descending safer. 

Head tube angle: 65º / Seat tube angle: 76º / Chainstay: 436mm

6 . Yeti – SB120 T1

Turq-Series Carbon / SRAM X01/GX Eagle / 29×2.5/2.3″

MSRP: $8,200 Jenson USA

Fork : Fox Factory 34 GRIP2 130mm  Shock : Fox Factory Float DPS 120mm Wheels : DT Swiss XM1700

The SB120 is a Yeti full-suspension MTB focused on cross-country and trail riding. This bike has an eye-watering price but has the spec and performance to match.

The Yeti SB120 T1 is built for speed and versatility with 29″ wheels and modern trail geometry. This is balanced by confidence-inspiring and premium 2.5/2.3″ Maxxis Minion DHF/Aggressor EXO tires. 

A blended SRAM groupset consists of a 12-speed, 10-52t X01/GX drivetrain that provides reliable and durable performance and G2 RSC four-piston hydraulic disc brakes. The wide gear ratio allows for easy hill climbs while powerful brakes ensure safe descents.

Consider the SB120 T1 if you want a high-end trail bike for tackling a wide variety of trails. 

Head tube angle: 66.5º / Seat tube angle: 76.5º / Chainstay: 433-443mm

7 . Co-op Cycles – DRT 3.3

A reliable, affordable XC bike

Aluminum / 12-Speed Shimano SLX / 27.5 or 29 x2.4″

MSRP:   $3,299 REI

Fork : RockShox Revelation Motion Control RC 120 or 130mm Shock : RockShox Deluxe Select+ 120 or 130mm Wheels : WTB ST Light i30 TCS

The DRT 3.3 is a cross-country bike with plenty to offer beginner or intermediate XC mountain bikers. It features progressive wheel sizing and suspension travel based on frame size, Airsprung RockShox suspension, and premium Maxxis High Roller or Dissector tires. 

This bike has a lightweight but strong aluminum frame that helps keep the price down without sacrificing too much performance. This is boosted by a Shimano SLX 12-speed with a 10-51t climbing cassette and powerful Shimano SLX disc brakes for controlled descending. 

Head tube angle: 66/67°   /   Seat tube angle: 75°   /   Chainstay length: 433/441mm

Buy on REI.com

8 . Juliana – Wilder C R TR

MSRP : $4,899 Evo.com

Fork: RockShox SID RL 120mm travel Rear Shock: Fox Float Performance DPS 115mm travel Wheels: RaceFace AR Offset 

Julianna’s Wilder is a race-ready trail bike designed to tackle the toughest trails with confidence. As Santa Cruz’s women-specific brand, Julianna takes advantage of its VPP suspension system to provide the Wilder with unbeatable suspension performance.

Large 29″ RaceFace AR rims and slack geometry allow you to roll over any obstacle on the trail. In addition, female-tailored geometry and a Carbon C frame ensure the Wilder is painless to maneuver.

Finally, this bike is built on an SRAM NX Eagle drivetrain and paired with grippy Maxxis Rekon Race tires and powerful SRAM Level T hydraulic disc brakes to ensure smooth climbing ability and controlled descending. 

Buy on Evo.com

9 . Marin – Rift Zone 1

Best value full-suspension mountain bike

Series 3 Aluminum / 11-Speed Shimano Deore / 29×2.3″

MSRP: $1,899 Jenson USA

Fork : RockShox Recon Silver RL 130mm Shock : X-Fusion O2 Pro R 125mm Wheels : Marin Aluminum Double-Wall

The Rift Zone is a 29-inch trail mountain bike designed for speed over fast, flowy trails.

Multi-Trac suspension improves big hit absorption and delivers a more efficient pedaling platform for the 130mm RockShox Recon Silver RL fork and a 125mm X-Fusion O2 Pro R rear shock.

Vee Tire Crown Gem 29×2.3″ tires are durable but lack some grip in the corners and are slightly slow for this type of bike.

The Rift Zone 1 runs a typical 11-speed Shimano Deore drivetrain with Shimano MT201 hydraulic disc brakes and is finished off with a budget alloy seatpost instead of a dropper.

This is a solid XC/trail bike that offers excellent value for money in the entry-level category of full-sus bikes. 

Head tube angle: 65.5º / Seat tube angle: 76º / Chainstay: 425mm

  Buy on JensonUSA.com

10 . Norco – Fluid FS 2

MSRP: $2,499 Jenson USA

Fork : RockShox 35 Silver R, 130mm travel Shock : RockShox Deluxe Select, 120mm travel Wheels : Stan’s NoTubes Flow D 

The Norco Fluid is a full-suspension mountain bike with an innovative progressive frame design for enhanced fit and performance. It features 130mm of front travel and 120mm in the rear, with a reliable Shimano Deore 12-speed drivetrain and matching Shimano MT420 hydraulic disc brakes.

Norco chose Stan’s NoTubes Flow D rims with Maxxis Dissector 2.4″ tires for their excellent grip and durability. For a seatpost, you can rely on an X-Fusion Manic dropper. Every detail is accounted for on the Fluid FS 2, making it an excellent value trail bike.

Head tube angle: 66º / Seat tube angle: 76º / Chainstay: 431mm

Buy from JensonUSA.com

11 . GT – Sensor Sport

Aluminum / MicroSHIFT Advent X, 10-Speed / 29 x 2.3″

MSRP: $2,300

Fork : RockShox Recon Silver, 140 mm Shock : X-Fusion 02 Pro RL 130mm travel Wheels : WTB Aluminum rims

The GT Sensor Sport is a full-suspension trail mountain bike designed to handle almost any trail out there .

This bike can smash climbs and thunder down descents with ease thanks to GT’s LTS rear linkage technology which soaks up trail chatter and improves traction.

The lightweight, durable aluminum frame is fitted with a RockShox Recon Silver RL 140 mm fork and an X-Fusion 02 Pro RL 130 mm shock which offer decent performance for this price range. 

This bike takes rolls along smoothly and corners confidently with 29″ wheels wrapped in WTB Breakout 2.3″ tires. Finally, you can rely on a MicroSHIFT Advent X  10-Speed drivetrain for smooth shifting and powerful but inconsistent Tektro HD-M275 hydraulic brakes. 

Head tube angle: 65.5º / Seat tube angle: 76º / Chainstay: 435mm

Buy from Jenson USA

12 . Alchemy Bikes – Arktos 120

Carbon / 12-Speed Shimano XT / 29×2.3″

MSRP: from $4,699 Alchemy Bikes

Fork : Fox 34 29 Factory Kashima 130mm travel Shock : Fox DPX2 Factory Kashima EVOL 120mm travel Wheels : Industry Nine 29 Enduro S Hydra

The Alchemy Bikes Arktos 120 is a full-suspension XC/trail mountain bike that’s perfect for riders who enjoy charging uphill and thundering down descents.

The Alchemy carbon frame is ultra-lightweight and laterally stiff, and the seat tube allows longer dropper posts like the stock Fox Factory 175mm Transfer dropper.

The Arktos runs on Alchemy’s patented Sine Suspension dual-linkage platform. This system provides next-level performance through enhanced efficiency on climbs and improved handling and traction on chunky descents. The 130mm and 120mm Fox Factory Kashima suspension soaks up all but the most aggressive hits.

The Arktos 120 comes with a choice of three 12-speed groupsets (Shimano XT or SRAM GX/X01). Each has a hill-crushing cassette and 180mm-rotor hydraulic discs. Finally,  burly Industry Nine enduro rims are fitted with Maxxis Minion DHF and DHR 29×2.3 tires, providing plenty of capability but adding some extra weight. 

Consider the Arktos if you want high-end performance and an award-winning carbon frame at a reasonable price. 

Head tube angle: 65.75-66.5-º / Seat tube angle: 77.75-78.5º / Chainstay: 437mm

Buy on Alchemy Bikes

13 . Pivot – Trail 429 Pro

Carbon / SRAM X0 Eagle / 29×2.4″

MSRP: $9,900

Fork : Fox Factory 36 GRIP2 140mm travel Shock : Fox Factory Float X, 130mm travel Wheels : Reynolds Blacklabel carbon

Pivot Cycles is a relatively new bicycle company that has already won awards for its innovative design.

This can be seen on its Trail 429 Pro 29er full-suspension trail/XC bike, a lightweight carbon beast with top-level parts. It’s a professional XC bike for advanced riders, with modern trail geometry in the low flip-chip setting that provides confidence on steep descents. 

The suspension is tight, with a Fox Factory 36 140mm fork up front and 130mm Factory Float X shock on the rear. The DW-Link platform and carbon fiber build kit allow you to get more power from each pedal stroke, making this a highly efficient climber. 

Using the 12-speed SRAM X0, 10-52t drivetrain you get perfect shifting every time and plenty of gears for steep grades. In addition, the Trail 429 has powerful four-piston SRAM G2 RSC hydraulic disc brakes. 

Don’t miss out on the Pivot Trail 429 Pro if you’ve got a huge budget and want unbeatable trail performance to match. 

Head tube angle: 66-66.5º / Seat tube angle: 75-75.5º / Chainstay: 430-432mm

Buy from Mike's Bikes

14 . Santa Cruz Bicycles – Tallboy R

Aluminum / 12-Speed SRAM NX Eagle / 29×2.4″

MSRP: $4,199

Fork : FOX Rhythm 34, 130mm travel Shock : Fox Float DPS Performance, 120mm travel Wheels : Race Face AR Offset 30

The Tallboy is of the most popular Santa Cruz full-suspension Mountain Bikes and this version has a tighter, more grounded feel, perfect for attacking bumpy terrain at high speed.

With the Santa Cruz Flip-Chip upper link, you can fit 29″ or 27.5″ rims and tires, although it comes standard with 29×2.4″Maxxis Dissector/Rekon EXO tires on Race Face AR Offset 30 rims.

The 12-speed SRAM NX Eagle groupset runs a wide-ratio 11-50T cassette for easy climbing and includes SRAM Guide T four-piston hydraulic disc brakes.

It’s finished off with a Burgtec Enduro MK3 stem, handlebar, SDT Tellis dropper, and Cane Creek 10 IS integrated headset.

Head tube angle: 65.7º / Seat tube angle: 76.8-76º / Chainstay: 436mm

15 . Juliana – Joplin 4 C R

Carbon C / 12-Speed SRAM NX Eagle /  29×2.4″

MSRP: $5,299 Evo.com

Fork : RockShox Pike Base 130mm Shock : Fox Float Performance DPS 120mm travel Wheels : Raceface AR Offset 30

The Juliana Joplin is a women’s full-suspension trail/XC mountain bike built for speed.

The premium Santa Cruz Carbon C frame is fitted with a RockShox Pike Base fork with 130mm of travel and a Float Performance DPS 120mm rear shock. These components are enhanced by the tailored lower-link VPP suspension that improves pedaling efficiency and traction. 

The drivetrain is a 12-speed SRAM NX Eagle with an 11-50t cassette for steep climbs and for braking you have SRAM Guide T hydraulic discs.

Finally, the Juliana Joplin 4 C R has an SDG Tellis dropper and 2.4″ Maxxis Dissector/Rekon 3C MaxxTerra EXO tires to provide confidence when descending on fast, chunky trails. 

Choose this women’s mountain bike if you love days on the trails with lots of elevation gain and a variety of trails. 

Head tube angle: 65.7º / Seat tube angle: 76-76.7º / Chainstay: 430-433mm

16 . Ibis – Ripley AF

🏆 Best all-around mountain bike for every terrain

Aluminum / 12-Speed Shimano Deore / 29×2.4″

MSRP: $3,799 Jenson USA

Fork : Fox Float 34 Performance, 130mm travel Shock : Fox Performance Float DPS, 120mm travel Wheels : Blackbird Send Alloy Max Clearance 2.6″

Coming in at just under $4,000, this is one of those bikes that outperforms its price tag. Straight off the bat, the 12-speed Shimano Deore groupset is impressive with hydraulic disc brakes. 

Naturally, it has a premium quality aluminum frame with superb DW-Link suspension technology, offering 120mm of rear travel from Fox Performance Float DPS shock. With a similar kit upfront, you get 130mm of travel on the Float 34 fork, and it’s all rounded off with Blackbird rims and 2.4″ Maxxis  DHR II and Dissector tires. 

 Head Tube Angle: 65.5º / Seat Tube Angle: 76º / Chainstay length: 432mm

17 . Yeti – SB115 C2

CARBON C1 BIKE

Available in 3 designs

Carbon / 12-speed SRAM GX Eagle / 29×2.5″, 2.3″

MSRP: $6,200 Competitive Cyclist

Another top-class mountain bike from Yeti , this combination XC and trail bike attacks both the hills and the drops with equal vigor and aggression. The lightweight carbon frame combined with the 12-speed SRAM GX Eagle 10-52T cassette makes easy work of hills, while the Switch Infinity rear suspension technology combined with 130mm travel on the Fox Performance fork makes downhills a breeze.

You get added support from a thick 2.5″ Maxxis Minion DHF front tire and 2.3″ Aggressor on the rear, wrapped around DT Swiss rims. Oh and let’s not forget the Fox Transfer dropper seat post for added ease and enjoyment!

Head tube: 67.6 / Seat Tube: 74.1 / Chainstay: 437mm

Buy on Competitive Cyclist

18 . Santa Cruz Bicycles – Blur

Carbon C / 12-Speed Shimano XT / 29×2.4″

MSRP: $6,599

Fork : RockShox Sid SL Select+ 100mm travel Shock : RockShox SidLuxe Select+ 100mm travel Wheels : Race Face ARC Offset 27

The race-ready Blur XC bike from Santa Cruz is designed for fast riding on cross-country trails.

The SuperLight suspension linkage combined with a 100mm RockShox Sid SL Select+ fork and SidLuxe Select+ shock provides plenty traction on the rougher stuff.

Fast-rolling 29er wheels, Maxxis Aspen 2.4″ XC racing tires, a stiff and lightweight carbon frame, and agile geometry give the Blur its high-performance personality. 

The groupset is a 12-speed Shimano XT with four-piston hydraulic disc brakes and plenty of gearing from the 10-51t cassette. 

Consider the Santa Cruz Blur if you’re ready to take your XC rides to the next level. 

Head Tube Angle: 65.7-65.4 / Seat Tube Angle: 77.5-76.8 / Chainstays: 423-433mm

Buy on Mike's Bikes   

19 . Cannondale – Habit Carbon 1 

MSRP: $5,500 Planet Cyclery

Every XC rider comes across an unexpectedly steep descent every now and again, leaving them in a precarious situation with an inadequate bike. The Cannondale Habit Carbon 1 rises to this challenge, offering an XC-specific bike that can tackle steep downhills with confidence.

It achieves this with the addition of a Cannondale DownLow dropper post combined with Cannondale’s Proportional Response Tuned suspension system. The RockShox Pike Select+ 140mm fork has slightly longer than usual travel for an XC bike, with the 130mm RockShox Super Deluxe Select+ rear shock to match. A wide-range SRAM GX Eagle drivetrain with a 10-52t cassette and SRAM G2 RSC hydraulic disc brakes make up a solid mountain-ready groupset that can tackle climbs and descents with ease.

HT: 66° / ST: 74.5° / Chainstay: 435mm

Buy on Planet Cyclery

20 . Evil – Following LS GX

MSRP: $6,450 evo.com

Evil Bikes is known for making high-quality mountain bikes that push the boundaries of design and innovation. The ‘Following’ is its versatile XC offering – a high-speed MTB with 29″ wheels, semi-compact geometry, and mid-range travel that can tackle unusually harsh conditions 

The proprietary DELTA suspension system and RockShox Deluxe Ultimate RCT shock are both highly tunable to adapt to varying conditions so if you feel like doing some downhill riding, simply adjust it to your needs and hit the trails. On this version of Evil’s Following, SRAM provides decent 12-speed gearing and instant braking with its mid-level GX Eagle groupset and G2 RS disc brakes.

Where Can You Ride a Short-Travel Mountain Bike?

Short travel mountain bikes are ideal all-rounder bicycles for fast and zippy trails, whether it is flat or hilly.

Downhill mountain bikes with lots of travel are ideal for extremely rough terrain with big drops and large obstacles but provide a disadvantage on flatter terrain. 

The less stiff your suspension is, the more speed you lose when riding fast on flat terrain. So you need to choose a bike that best suits the type of riding you intend to do. For most All-mountain, Cross-country, and Trail riding, you shouldn’t need more travel than 100-130mm. MTB bikes with travel between 140-180mm are intended for intense downhill and enduro-style riding.

Of course, many of these bikes have adjustable suspension, so in some cases, you can change it for the terrain of that day. However, if you don’t intend on ever tackling extreme downhills, big jumps, or huge drops, then there is no need to spend the extra on advanced suspension with unnecessarily long travel.

Other Factors to Keep in Mind

Carbon vs. aluminum: which is better.

Which is better: Carbon or Aluminum for a full-sus. MTB? Well, carbon has taken over the whole cycling industry for a while by now, and it is not different from the mountain bike scene. As carbon-tubing gets better each year, there is a reason why mountain bikers prefer carbon over aluminum. Carbon simply has the right ‘feel’ to the whole ride, while providing enough durability and ways to form a bike.

Tires & Tire Pressure

It is recommended to use more air in the rear tire when on trails.

• 29″ – 18-28 psi. Plus-size tires or on wider wheels (Ibis) can be run on lower,11-18 psi range
• 27.5″ (650b) – 16-30 psi.

Lowering your tire pressure means you create more contact with the ground so if you have thin tires, less pressure will provide more grip. However, while this may be a bit more comfortable offroad it comes at the sacrifice of speed on flatter ground. Depending on your weight, you should try to find a perfect balance that isn’t too low or too hard.

Tubeless tires can usually run lower pressure since there is no tube to pinch. Similarly, wider rims can also accommodate lower tire pressure. These are all factors to consider when pumping your tires.

Suspension set-up

You should always tune your suspension correctly to accommodate your weight and riding style. This can be done by rocking up and down on the bike to measure your ‘sag’ rate and then adjusting the air or spring pressure accordingly.

If you’re going to be hitting big jumps or drops, you’ll need a wider, looser suspension to take heavy impact. If you’re riding mostly flat trails, you’ll want it stiffer so you don’t over-compress and lose speed on each little bump.

Compression / Sag / Rebound

The Sag, as mentioned earlier, is important to measure and set accordingly before heading out on the trails. Once that’s done, set the rebound damping by pushing on the front suspension and seeing if you get any ‘bounce’. Tighten it until it only rebounds once, doesn’t bounce up and down.

For the compression settings, you’ll need to specify them according to your riding style. Different shocks have different settings, so it’s down to your style and preference. Basically, add more compression damping if you want tighter traction on corners, or less if you want more absorption on big drops.

Rider Weight

It’s important to get the correct weight distribution on a full-suspension bike otherwise you could injure yourself on the trails. The longer wheelbase a bike has, the more stable it will be, so heavier riders should consider this factor. 

Bottom bracket height is also important, as the higher the less stability you get but it can’t be too close to the ground either for obvious safety reasons. Generally, these measurements can all be perfected for you in-store when you buy a new bike. It’s always a good idea to have a professional fit your bike for you.

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Trail Bikes: Short vs Long Travel

Most bike companies are offering a wide assortment of bikes, but the lines between each model aren’t always clear. Bikes with different intentions, different travels, and different geometries exist in almost every manufacturer’s stable, but what’s the difference?  And does it matter?

Three of our reviewers, Noah Bodman , Marshal Olson , and Tom Collier , took on the topic of short travel vs long travel trail bikes —  what are they, when are they appropriate, and where do their personal preferences lie?

Q: What do you consider “short” travel? “Long” travel?

Noah : It depends a bit on the context, but for normal trail riding, I’d consider “short” travel to mean 120 mm and “long” travel to mean 160 mm.

Down around 100 mm is what I’d consider to be a bike more designed for XC racing, while 180 mm and upwards I’d call a Freeride / DH bike.

Marshal : It all depends on the trail.

Very steep and prolonged rough trail: short travel = 160 mm; long travel = 200 mm+.

Backcountry rooty and rocky trails: short travel = rigid; long travel = 140 mm

Wheel size dramatically affects travel. I am happy at 140-150 mm on 26″ wheels and 650b, and 100-120 mm on 29’ers on the same trail, though the bigger suspension and littler wheels don’t handle as well, and feel more twitchy to me at my somewhat lanky 6’2’’ build. I need a longer wheelbase, slacker geometry, and softer suspension with the little wheels to slow the handling down relative to bigger wheels.

Tom : For trail riding, I think of a short-travel bike as having somewhere around 120-140 mm of travel (this applies to forks and rear suspension). A bike with less travel than that probably ought to see time with a number plate attached and a spandex clad racer in the saddle.

A bike with 150-170 mm of travel falls squarely into the long-travel trail bike realm. Any more travel than that I think of as a DH or freeride-specific bike.

Q: How do hardtails fit into this schema?

Noah : Ummm, they don’t? Ok, around 120 mm for the fork is the sweet spot. Then, going either longer or shorter is obviously worthwhile for different situations.

Marshal : Unless the trail is super steep and technical / rough, causing the rear wheel to hang up on square edges, modern hardtails are wicked fun to ride — they certainly build skills and are very rewarding. For a hardtail, I have also settled on a 120 mm fork, but run it very stiff and set up more progressively to only use 90 mm or less of available travel. This keeps the front end up and well mated to the rigid rear end, and slows down the handling a bit.

Tom : I’d knock a bit of travel off for hardtails since they can be prone to feeling unbalanced without rear suspension to match. So I would call 100-120 mm “short” travel and 130-150 mm long travel. Plenty of people seem to like hucking off things on a hardtail with a 160 mm travel fork (or more), but I think that hardtails start diving too much in corners when they have more than 140 mm forks. (But maybe the huckers don’t turn.)

Like Noah and Marshal, I target 120-130 mm as being a balance between bump absorption and diving.

8 comments on “Trail Bikes: Short vs Long Travel”

Suspension tuning and style wasn’t mentioned much. I’m not an expert tuner or anything, but even with flipping through dials and playing with air pressure, bikes, just like skis, do tend to have a certain personality of sorts. For example, lively, poppy and playful vs plush, stable and planted. For example, I found SB66s to feel more like the former (and skittish) and Nomads to feel more like the latter (and sluggish). Some of this could be geometry, but I think suspension characteristics are definitely playing a large role in the personality of the bike. I’m surprised this wasn’t mentioned by anyone. As an aside, I think shorter travel bikes are better suited towards the former, and longer travel bikes better suited towards the latter. I haven’t really looked at 275ers, mostly because they seem like a really poor allocation of my dollars with so many good 26ers going for dirt cheap (2 good bikes for the price of 1 mediocre, anyone?).

Really enjoyed this article. Great insights all around. I’m just going to need to convince the wife that I need a minimum of 3 mountain bikes. I’m sure it will go over great (haha). Lindahl, they actually have multiple articles on suspension including one that goes into a decent amount of depth on tuning your ride. Just go back to mountain biking 101 and you can find all the links there. Completely agree with your comment on the low prices of 26ers – unreal.

I’ve basically been in cryo-storage for the last decade as far as mountain bikes are concerned so this might be a question with an obvious answer but why aren’t there more long travel 29ers out there? I recently bought a Niner WFO and while I’m very happy with my purchase, there definitely isn’t the same level of selection in this category as there is in the LT 650b category. For instance, why doesn’t Santa Cruz make a 29er version of the Bronson? Is this a VHS / Beta question where one type of frame won the day “because”? Did these bikes initially come out and no one bought them? Are long travel 29ers the mono-skis of mountain biking? I’m obviously missing something. Interested in your thoughts. Thank you!

When I first got onto a 29er this summer, my thought was that bigger wheels are to mountain biking what tip rocker is to skiing: they make the sport easier to do and therefore more accessible, more fun, etc. They’re not better than smaller wheels in every situation but in places where greasy roots and steep technical trails are common, I would imagine most riders would be happier on bigger wheels than smaller. So, when I started looking around for a new bike I was expecting to find lots of companies adopting them, across the spectrum of bike types, especially on enduro bikes. But what I found was that it’s mostly XC / trail bikes with less aggressive geometry and shorter travel (Santa Cruz Tallboy, Trek Remedy, Scott Spark, etc.) that have adopted 29″ wheels while the popular enduro (aggressive, long travel) bikes from Santa Cruz, Pivot, Devinci, Yeti, Norco, etc. are all 650b/27.5 – why is this? Maybe it’s because relatively short travel but aggressive 29ers like Evil’s The Following are facilitating the same kind of riding experience a LT 650b/27.5″ bike does (i.e. you don’t “need the extra travel because of the bigger wheels… but since when does that line of thinking apply to mountain bike manufacturers)?

Being short at 5’8″ and the lack of longer travel 29ers ruled wagon wheels out for me. I don’t buy the argument that the bigger wheel make up for 20mm of travel. Travel is travel. The real reason you don’t see long travel 29ers is that your already higher on them so longer travel would negativity impact the handling of the bike and create geometry issues. 140mm 27.5 hits the sweet spot for playful trail riding for me personally. I don’t care for flowy groomed trails so xc short travel bikes aren’t for me.

One more vote for the importance of the trails you ride: Sure, langer travel bikeswap with slacker head angles climb very well these days. So, out in the big mountains, you climb for 2 hours, then rip a sustained descent for 45 minutes, that’s a great set-up

On our Midwestern trails, much of the distance of a trail is spent on short rolling hills. Having a bike that is lively pedaling out of the saddle on a short rise, having geometry that is nimble for the tight turns at slower speeds on the flats, and having firm suspension to pump every little feature, even on the uphills, makes that bike a lot more fun on these sort of trails.

So I’d argue there IS STILL a penalty for longer travel, slacker bikes.

Great article, give me more insights. Written well. We need more article like this in different subjects Thanks

Beeson, I am just under 6′-0″ and I feel that the 29ers with long travel are just way to Tall. I do not like to maneuver on stilts, and I would need a Medium with 29 and anything over 130 mm travel. also at some point the suspension will tweak, bind, or feel like it is hanging up as you are flicking around corners or clipping rocks. I tend to use my dropper any time I see Technical or tight turns, and the high profile only helps for pedal strikes… not confidence in riding my outside lugs. We need a lower center of gravity without grinding down front cogs.

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Are Downhill Bikes Good for Jumping? (Explained)

Downhill bikes are specialist machines made for a single purpose – to travel downhill as fast as possible. But are they a good choice of bike for jumping?

There are different kinds of jumps in mountain biking, with very different requirements in terms of bike setup .

Here we’ll look at when a downhill bike could be the best option for jumping, as well those times the downhill bike is best off being left in the garage.

Here’s what you should know about Jumping on a Downhill Bike:

Downhill bikes are designed to tackle jumps typically encountered on trails. With a long enough run-up and sufficient speed, trail jumps will be no problem for a downhill bike. They aren’t well suited to dirt jumps as they lose energy through unwanted suspension compression on steep take-offs.

What Makes Downhill Bikes Good or Bad for Jumping

Before we can say whether or not a DH bike is good for jumping, we need to distinguish between the two main types of MTB jumps.

There are the jumps you find on a trail, then there are the jump sets you’d encounter at a dirt jump track. The nature of these two types of jumps is very different, which means the ideal bike for each jump is also different.

Let’s take a look at each type of jump individually and evaluate how suitable downhill bikes are for each.

Can Downhill Bikes be Used for Jumps on Trails?

Whilst trails can vary considerably from a novice blue rating through to pro lines, the jumps encountered on trail rides are similar, broadly speaking.

It’s true that the first small tabletop you hit as a novice is worlds apart from the massive jumps in pro downhill runs but they typically share these features in common:

• They are located on descending sections of the trail, with a long and steep enough run-up to allow sufficient speed to be built up in order to clear them.
• The face of the jump, or take-off, isn’t crazy steep. At least not when compared to dirt jumps as we’ll discuss later on.
• The trails on which you encounter this type of jump typically (although not always) include other features, from rock gardens and drop-offs to berms.

This is a great example of what a trail type jump would look like:

When taking off from trail-type jumps, the relatively shallow angle of the jump means the rider is propelled horizontally more than vertically, and most of the forward momentum is maintained.

The landings on this type of jump vary considerably, so a sturdy full suspension bike with a decent amount of travel is usually preferred to ensure a smooth landing.

Downhill bikes are the sturdiest full suspension bikes available, with more suspension travel than any other MTB This makes them perfect for jumping on trails.

Or at least this is true 99% of the time. For the very smallest jumps hit at low speed, like the ones you’d find on a beginner’s trail, the weight of a DH bike could be a limiting factor.

Downhill bikes are very heavy, which makes them a bit harder to get over those smaller, slower jumps.

(We actually wrote an article explaining why downhill bikes are so much heavier than other mountain bikes. You can read it here if you’re interested )

Most of the time, however, the weight of a downhill bike isn’t an issue at all for jumping on trails. In fact, downhill racing features some huge jumps and drop-offs, so DH bikes are actually designed to be able to jump well.

Can a Downhill Bike be used for Dirt Jumps?

Dirt jumps are entirely different from those encountered on trails.

First off, the only feature of a dirt jump track is… you guessed it, dirt jumps. There are no rock gardens, drop-offs, climbs, etc. Just jump after jump that flow into one another.

The jumps themselves are steep . Much steeper than the ones typically found on trails. Here’s an example of what a dirt jump looks like:

The much steeper face of dirt jumps means that the rider is propelled vertically more than horizontally after take-off. Speed is then maintained by hitting the steep landing, giving enough momentum to clear the next jump.

Downhill bikes are not suited to this type of jump for a few reasons.

The main reason is that they have way more suspension than a dirt jumper – the bikes designed specifically to tackle this type of jump track.

Dirt jump bikes are like beefed-up BMXs with front suspension, typically with 80mm – 100mm of travel in the forks, compared with 200mm of travel front and rear on a DH bike.

Whilst beneficial for trails, all the suspension on a DH bike causes problems on a dirt jump track when hitting the steep take-offs. When the jump is hit, the suspension compresses and takes a lot of momentum out of the bike.

The energy wasted in compressing the suspension of a DH bike would instead be used to propel the rider and the bike up the face of the jump if riding with a dirt jumper.

Another drawback is that downhill bikes are heavy . A DH bike will normally weigh in the 35 – 40 lbs region, whilst a dirt jumper weighs between 22 – 26 lbs.

More weight in a steep dirt jump means less time in the air to line up for a clean landing.

All this additional weight combined with the loss of energy due to compression of the suspension on a DH bike makes them a poor choice for dirt jumps.

That’s not to say it’s impossible to ride a dirt jump track on a downhill bike, but it’s much harder and should only be attempted by experienced riders who are very comfortable with their bikes.

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What should I expect from 120mm travel?

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Hi everyone! I’ve been grappling trying to tune in my rear suspension and it’s got me asking the question what should I expect out of 120mm rear travel? I’ve been searching for something that feels plush on small bumps but then doesn’t bottom out for me. And after playing with pressures for ages I’m not sure I’ll be able to get what I want out of 120mm travel, and keen to hear others experience? A bit about my setup, I weigh in at around 100kg/220lbs, and ride a Scott Spark 900. I mostly ride XC style trails. Nothing too crazy, some small jumps and drops, but largely just riding for fitness. The rear shock already has a volume spacer in it, but I’m pondering if I should add another one (they are hard to source for the fox nude shock). Am I expecting too much out of 120mm travel? Thanks 🙂  

Its not the amount of travel, its how its controlled by the shock. Sounds like you need to adjust damping settings. What are you running at the moment, and what can be adjusted? Maybe rent a shockwiz for a weekend  

You can try a better shock. https://hayesbicycle.com/collections/shocks/products/mara-pro https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/manitou-mara-pro-1126919.html This new model may be adequate. https://hayesbicycle.com/collections/manitou/products/mara_z?variant=34530359017517 https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-susp...ke-cross-between-mara-pro-mcleod-1142139.html Your bike will also take 2.5" tires on 40mm rims at lower pressures for some compliance.  

I'm sure you'll get a lot of replies with good suggestions on how to improve your setup but I'm going to cut right to the chase with my opinion after spending over a year attempting to do the same with my 116mm rear travel bike that had a Fox Factory DPS Evol. It sounds like we ride similar type of trails and as mentioned I spent well over a year trying pretty much every combo of air pressure, rebound and compression damping. I even went as far as to send the rear shock off to Avalanche to have their SSD/HSB mod installed. Even after all that I wasn't satisfied with the way it performed. It wasn't until I bit the bullet and spent the $$ to replace the rear shock with a Manitou Mcleod that I was happy with the way the bike rode and performed. That change finally allowed the bike to come alive. edit: Ha! Looks like it took me too long to type that up and eb1888 beat me to it by a few minutes.  

I have a Giant with 115mm of rear travel. My friend has a Tallboy with 120mm of rear travel. We both agree the Giant feels more plush. But, I'm 160 lbs, as is my friend, so at 220 lbs your experience could differ. Also, I'm running a DPX2 and he's running a DPS.  

PUSH ElevenSix is now available for 120mm travel (ie Evil The Following).  

I'm sure the OP appreciates the news on the 11-6 for the Following. I have to ask, how does that help the own of a Spark 900?  

So taking a step back form my post above jumping right to replacing your current shock with a Mcleod and attempting to answer you question... This is how I see it and some may not agree with this opinion but that's okay. I like to divide my travel up into segments. Example, the first 30% is used for sag and the last 15% is used for when you do hit a jump or drop and/or reserved for those "oh $hit moments" and balance of the % in the middle is for use during your typical JRA. So on a 120mm bike that takes 36mm for sag, 18mm for the jumps and drop which leaves you the 66mm in the middle for JRA. Now to finally get around to answering your question about what you should expect. With 66mm of travel to play with my expectation is I should be able to ride over a 2"(50mm) diameter or half buried 4" diameter root or rock and essentially not even feel it. And if your frame and shock are progressive enough that last 18mm should be enough to keep you out of trouble should you encounter something larger than expected. Some may think not even feeling the 2" root is asking too much but I don't think it is. I can't tell you how many people told me I needed to temper my expectations, so many I had just about given in to the fact that maybe they were correct. But right about then is when I decided to give the Mcleod a try. The first ride after installing that shock on my bike was literally an "ah ha, where have you been all my life" moment. As it turned out there was no reason for me to adjust my expectations, I just needed to find the right equipment. It allows the bike to do everything I expected and more.  

SideSwip said: Hi everyone! I've been grappling trying to tune in my rear suspension and it's got me asking the question what should I expect out of 120mm rear travel? I've been searching for something that feels plush on small bumps but then doesn't bottom out for me. And after playing with pressures for ages I'm not sure I'll be able to get what I want out of 120mm travel, and keen to hear others experience? A bit about my setup, I weigh in at around 100kg/220lbs, and ride a Scott Spark 900. I mostly ride XC style trails. Nothing too crazy, some small jumps and drops, but largely just riding for fitness. The rear shock already has a volume spacer in it, but I'm pondering if I should add another one (they are hard to source for the fox nude shock). Am I expecting too much out of 120mm travel? Thanks  Click to expand...

RC is the 100mm model.  

For some the Spark is adequate.- depends on your skills.  

I struggled for about 1.5 years with the same issues on my Ibis Ripley v4 fitted with a Fox Factory DPS. In the end, I decided to spend the money on a new rear shock. Since I was able to the find suspension performance that worked for my preferences and terrain in a DVO Topaz on a pervious Canfield Riot, I decided to buy another Topaz for the Ripley. The new rear shock addressed my concerns,. The Ripley fitted with a Topaz still feels like a 120 mm bike but it has much better small bump compliance, is MUCH more composed in chunky terrain with repeated hits, and is much more composed when hitting square edge bumps. There are several good shock options besides the DVO that might enable your bike to perform the way that you want. At least for my preferences and terrain, the DPS was a huge disappointment. On a related note, I wasn't too thrilled with the 130 mm Fox 34 Performance either and replaced it with a 140 mm DVO Sapphire. That upgrade was implemented within a few months of buying the bike. I don't know why I gave the DPS such a long chance. In any case, I couldn't be happier with the suspension upgrades.  

I went from a Specilized Fuse hardtail plus bike, to a 130mm Trek Fuel EX8, to a 140mm Stumpjumper, then back down to a 120mm Pivot Trail 429. Although the Pivot was fast, I instantly missed the plush feel of the Stumpy. I'm now one ride in on a 2020 Scott Genius 930 at 150mm. The plushness has returned, I'm instantly more satisfied, and I don't think I would go back to less than 140mm. I ride in Ohio, so nothing too crazy here, but I came to realize I do prefer longer travel bikes. I ride for fun factor, so my lap times might increase but my smile will be bigger for my favorite sections. Small bump compliance from the Nude T felt great on the Genius and I didn't bottom out in my 10 mile technical lap. Unfortunately with Scott you are limited on shock options  

It might not have been the travel, your issue could have been as simple as suspension traits. What you you liked about the Horst link is what I hated. What you didn't like about the DW link is exactly what I like about.  

reading about the twinloc system it seems a if the geometry and damping is controlled via a handlebar mounted remote with lock out, trail, and descend settings. The damper settings are probably for someone 150lbs. If the internals of the nude are the same as the dps you should be able to swap the one in there now for a larger one. This will allow you to use less psi for preload but might make the rebound top out. Im 200lbs and have to have adjustable compression...  

Just remember your arms and legs are always availble. I consider 120 plenty. With long travel you need expert trails for fun all other get boring.  

My interpretation was he OP's question was not about the quantity of his travel, it is about the quality of his travel.  

Seems adequate to this shredder:  

Or just substitute any Nino Schurter video. The fact of the matter is that some people need 150mm to pick their way down a trail, going half the speed another guy on 120mm goes. But, neither one is wrong. They are both out there riding. That's what we're all her for, right? Bikes are not "capable"; riders are. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

120 should be plenty for the type of riding you described. An extra token or two may be all you need. For me personally this is my go-to video for setting up my suspension ( ). Also something that a lot of people miss after replacing chains or upgrading their drivetrains is having a chain too short for the full range of travel. Rather than adding the extra links measuring on the largest front an rear cogs/ring and hoping it's right, it's best to just let all the air out of your shock and make sure you can be in any gear without the chain tension completely straightening out your rear derailleur. Also with dual chamber Fox shocks, you have to let the air equilized carefully while adding air back. Hope this helps.  

I prefer to just size it for the smallest cog. Make it as long as it can be. Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk  

Have you tried adding tokens? Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk  

Looks like the OP forgot about creating the thread..  

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130 mm Vs. 150 mm Travel ( Wich Is the Wright Bike for You)

My first full suspension bike was and 90 mm XC bike, when I decided to upgrade I was really confused if a 150 mm bike is really better than a 130 mm one, and for good reasons, finding which one of these two bikes is for you is not an easy task.

If you are an aggressive rider always looking to test your limits and you always smash hard on every trail you ride then a 150 mm bike will be the obvious choice for you but if you want a bike with better climbing capabilities and you mainly ride on flowy trails the 130 mm bike will be the better choice.

Of course, this is the short answer but there is more to the subject than meets the eye, so in this article, we will examine what are the major differences between these two types of mountain bikes and we will discuss which is better for your riding style.

By the end of this article, you will know which one better suits your riding style and can make an informed decision.

The Major Differences Between a 130 mm and 150 mm Bike?

For average riders, more travel means increased safety, longer travel forks will make your bike slacker (slacker head angle), which makes descending steep descents easier and gives you an extra bust of confidence.

The major difference between a 130 mm and a 150 mm bike is how it feels on the trails , the 130 mm bike will feel flowier while the 150 mm will feel plusher and more stable and this will allow you to ride it more aggressively if you have the necessary skills.

Let us examine all the notable advantages of a 150 mm bike compared to a 130 mm bike:

• Slacker: the 150 mm is more slacker due to the longer travel fork, this makes it safer on technical descents,
• Confidence builder: the 150 mm bike will give you more confidence riding over bigger obstacles with speed,
• More adrenaline: if you really want to push your skills to the limits then a 150 mm bike will allow you to ride more aggressively and you can smash the more aggressive parts of the trail at higher speeds,
• More capable on descents: the most important advantage of a 150 mm bike will be how compact and how stable it feels on steep descents, here a 150 mm bike truly shines compared to a 130 mm.

Now that we got the advantages of 150 mm bikes out of the way let’s talk about the advantages of 130 mm bikes:

• Better at stiff climbs : a 130 mm bike will be better at climbing stiff hills because it has a less slack head tube angle,
• Better for trail riding : you won’t be underbiked on a 130mm on more than 90% of trails because most of the obstacles you need to overcome aren’t bigger than 2 “, and smaller suspension will make the bike faster and flowier (more fun and easier to ride on trails),
• More suited for longer rides : because they are better at climbing and have a flowy feeling they are more suited for longer rides, 150 mm bikes are more suited for shorter rides with longer downhill portions, if you like to ride all day a 130 mm bike will give you a more enjoyable experience,
• More than enough for average riders : most riders won’t have the necessary skills to really take advantage of the benefits of a 150 mm bike ( a 130mm bike will be more than enough for most casual riders) if you aren’t a veteran of the sport a 130 mm bike most likely is enough for you.

Keep in mind that bike geometry is more important than suspension travel, a bike designed for enduro will have totally a different level of performance on steep descends than one designed for trail riding.

But usually, if you aren’t riding like a pro, a 130 mm bike will be more than enough to satisfy your needs but if you are a veteran of the sport a 150 mm bike will allow you to smash into obstacles on the trails on a higher speed and so you will be faster on trails with a lot of technical descends and fewer steep climbs.

As you can see it all comes down to your riding experience, style, and how technical terrain you are riding on.

Is 130 mm Travel Enough for Trail Riding?

In regards to trail riding, a 130 mm travel MTB is going to be a good choice for the majority of people. This is going to be a very good all-around bike that will not feel too sluggish on the flat portions of your ride and will offer decent climbing capabilities.

Practically it will allow you to really enjoy your rides, you don’t have to suffer until you reach the downhill portions.

Yes, a 130 mm travel bike will be good enough to ride on trails and it kinda is the sweet spot when it comes to trail riding , the only riders that may want to get a bigger travel bike are veterans that ride like a pro (and many of them still chose 130 mm bikes).

The average mountain biker will not be able to push a 130 mm bike to its limits, instead of being so focused on the suspension travel you will be better off getting a bike with better geometry.

Is 150 mm Travel Enough for Enduro?

150 mm travel is enough for enduro but keep in mind that more suspension travel is always a big plus for an enduro bike.

If you want to compete in enduro events with a 150 mm enduro MTB you will not be underbiked but you will not have an advantage over your opponents’ eider.

A bigger suspension travel may compensate for a less than perfect drop and will allow you to ride over bigger obstacles faster, so it comes to how big of obstacles you need to ride over.

Even if you lose some speed here to there, you can still compensate for it if you are a good enduro rider.

One more thing to consider is that shorter travel bikes will fatigue you much faster because less energy will be absorbed by the suspension and more energy will be absorbed by your joints. In enduro the more suspension travel you have the better!

Is 150 mm Travel Enough to Ride in a Bike Park?

A 150 mm travel bike will allow you to have a ton of fun in a bike park.

There are many riders that shred the trails from bike parks with far less suspension travel than this. If you get a 150 mm travel bike to ride in bike parks your main focus should be the bike’s geometry and suspension quality because you will have more than enough travel to have a pleasant experience.

If you are the kind of rider that always wants to push themselves on technical descents you can opt for a longer travel bike but a 150 mm bike will have more than enough travel for most riders on a bike park .

Can I Put 150 mm Forks on a 140 mm Mountain Bike?

Yes, you can, upgrading your fork travel by 10 mm will usually work fine and your bike’s geometry will not change by much. The good part is that your bike will become slacker and it will perform better downhill.

Usually, most manufacturers will declare that 150 mm is the maximum travel on bikes equipped with 140 mm forks, practically this means that the bike frame was designed to work fine if you upgrade your fork to 150 mm travel and you won’t end up with a bike with worse geometry.

So you will be fine upgrading to a 150 mm fork on a bike that was equipped with a 140 mm fork, no downsides here.

I hope that by now you know which of the two bikes is for you.

To make it very simple if you are a very aggressive rider that is very focused on technical downhill rides then a 150 mm bike will be the far better choice for you.

If you are an average rider and you don’t ride as a pro then a 130 mm bike is more than enough for you. Keep in mind that a 150 mm bike will feel more sluggish on flat trails and you will practically push trow all the portions of the trail only to enjoy the downhill sections.

If your rides are longer and you want to have a good time on every part of your ride (not only downhill) then a 130 mm bike is for you.

Isac Vasile Claudiu

I started mountain biking many years ago to improve my overall health state. After my first ride, I fell in love with the sport. Now I spend dozens of hours a week researching and training to compete in local XC and Enduro events.

100mm or 120mm Travel Fork? The Conclusive Comparison!

Mountain bikes can be hard to maintain. Especially when you get confused about the travel fork. Because that can take a heavy toll on your riding experience if not done right.

The two most confusing travel forks are 100mm and 120mm. 

So, should you go for a 100mm or 120mm travel fork ?

100mm travel forks are shorter and lighter compared to 120mm travel forks. That’s why you can get a better commuting experience on your day-to-day rides. On the other end, a 120mm travel fork is better suited for mountain trails. But they are definitely heavier and hard to maneuver.

While you got to know some differences here, there are plenty more! But to know all of that, you need to be a bit patient.

So, let’s get on with the light comparison.

A Light Comparison

Everything starts with little things, even your Mtb bikes too. From its fork travel to track compatibility, your bike is dependent on many things. As I’ll focus on the two travel forks, I want you to understand their characteristics thoroughly.

Otherwise, you’ll find yourself being more confused than ever. Because 120mm travel Mtb is obviously not the same as a 100mm bike.

Having said that, here are a few of those contrasting differences listed in this comparison table-

These are just a sneak peek to the discussion of the difference between 100mm and 120mm forks . If you want to know the full details, follow me to the next segment right away!

The Heavy-hitting Discussion

This is the highlighting segment that you’ve been waiting for. Try to pay close attention to the discussion about these two travel forks. Because often they can feel very similar, but they are actually not. 

Another thing! To get an immersive hang of it, this video can be a start to understand the forks-

So, take a seat and follow along.

Size & Weight 

As obvious as it may seem, you have to look further into the size & weight factors. Because it’s important to understand how much you want your bike to weigh. If the fork is too big then you might not feel the same way while riding.

100mm fork 29 sizes can be pretty minimal with its 100m radius. Even the weight can be lower by as much as ½ pound than a 120mm fork. So, for making a feather-light build, you may be more inclined towards 100mm.

On the other end, 120mm is bulky but because of that, you get better geometry. While the weight can feel a bit difficult, you’ll have more actuation in the mountains.

So, in this 100mm vs 120mm fork hardtail battle, the winner depends on the user.

Winner: Depends on the biker’s choice and usage.

Head Tube Angles

Head tube angles can become a problem for your MTB if you’re not careful. In this category, 120mm proves better than 100m fork because of the flatter angle. Because of that, you get better ergonomics and control.

Source: Road

However, your average 120mm travel fork tube angle is steeper. While it may not create any complications for you, it’s definitely not a fun one. The response is harsh sometimes and that diminishes the riding experience.

So, you really have to think hard about these two hardtail forks!

Winner: Flatter and more enjoyable response from the 120mm forks.

Attachment Point 

Attachment to your wheels is a major factor for mtb travel forks . The 100mm has a flatter 45-degree angle to the front wheels. But that does not mean it’s better. In reality, it can feel loose when driving on mountain terrains.

Interestingly, having a steeper 55-degree angle offers better rigidity in 120mm forks. Even the trail response and feedback are superior to its lightweight counterpart.

Winner: Better attachment point is found in the 120mm travel suspension fork.

Rider Weight Limit

Now, this is an interesting topic to compare. As a rider, you definitely want to check this one out.

Source: Rei

If you weigh more than 150lbs, it’s better to go for a 120mm fork. Because it can take up to 160lbs of stress with ease. But your average 100mm forks fall behind with 145lbs of the weight limit.

So, a 120mm fork on an xc bike will perform better in this case. Now, the thing about forks are they can get easily damaged even if the rider limit is maintained. So, getting some service accessories for your bike can be extremely beneficial for you. 

Again, it’s not easy to get the best products for fork maintenance, is it? But I’ve found some quality products when I searched through multiple Mtb forums! Let me share what I’ve found to be useful-

• RockShox Fork Service Kit is the best thing that can happen to your fork! You can trust me with this one completely!
• Getting a good Suspension Oil like WPL Forkboost Lube also makes the bike experience smoother.
• Mimoke Bicycle Fork Repair Tool is another great inclusion for your forks

I truly believe these maintenance kits will take your bike riding experience to the next level.

Winner: 120mm forks offer better rider weight limits.

When it comes to pricing, a very atypical situation arises. I think you can already guess what it is. 

The 100mm travel forks are shorter than 120mm ones. That’s why you can find 100mm travel forks at an affordable price range. Even with the same model, the 100m version can cost you $30-50 less at the entry-level.

If you’re planning to purchase 120mm forks, you’ve to consider the price. With the premium models, the price jumps as much as $100 compared to 100mm. So, set your budget first and then decide which way to go.

Winner: 100m travel forks are more affordable than 120mm forks.

Which One Should You Go for?

I’ve tried to highlight the most interesting and important bits about these forks. Still, a good summarization may help you to finally decide on one!

If you’re going for marathons and bulky size, there’s nothing better than a 120mm fork. It’s quite robust and offers an inclined head tube angle. So, you get firm and sturdy responses from your MTB.

Here’s a rider’s thrilling experience of going into the fall mountain biking with 120mm fork-

Fall mountain biking is some of the best riding in WNY. The New 2022 Trek Roscoe is the ideal gateway mountain bike for new riders to have fun on the trail. Plus-sized confidence inspiring tires, 120mm travel fork, 1x drivetrain, dropper post make this bike a winner! #bertsbikes pic.twitter.com/P3XVVYfJnY — BertsBikesandFitness (@BertsBikes) September 20, 2021

While both can be used for cross-country, 120mm is better for efficient mountain climbers. Because these can’t get any better when you’re trail mountain biking. 

However, it’s tough to find good deals on 120mm forks nowadays. From my extensive research, I’ve found some promising offerings! Here they are-

On the other end, 100mm is better compatible with cross-country traveling. Its lighter build allows you to enjoy a smooth riding experience with awesome paddling. But it’ll fall short if you’re constantly going on different mountain trails.

While fiding a 100mm fork, you might get confused a lot. To avoid such baffling situations, you can start looking for them from here-

Even going further beyond 120mm like using 140mm fork with hardtail can perform better in mountains. However, that’s another discussion on its own.

So, in the end, you have to decide depending on your biking needs. I think you’ve gained enough knowledge to make that call!

Can I Put a 120mm Fork on a 100mm Bike?

Yes, you’ll be perfectly fine with using a 120mm fork on a 100mm bike. But there’s a catch. If you are still in the warranty period, switching the fork can nullify your warranty. Because most of the brands don’t allow that. However, you can get away with 120mm if you’ve passed the warranty phase.

What Does 120mm Travel Mean?

The fork travel means the compression of your bike’s fork. Basically, how short it can get when you push the bike’s fork. So, for a fork with less than 120mm travel, the best use case is long riding. For a bike with a medium travel count within 160, it’s best for the mountain tracks.

Is More Fork Travel Better?

Fork travel depends on your usage of your mountain bike. More fork travel means that you’ll face a harder time when going uphill. If the travel is far greater than your usual, then it’ll only feel cumbersome and rigid. So, maintaining the fork travel according to your needs is the best way to ride.

I hope you got the differences between 100mm or 120mm travel fork . It’ll be easier for you to pick one for your bike.

One last reminder for you. Just make sure to ride with full confidence and thrill!

Best of Luck!

About The Author

Joseph Williams

Related posts.

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Carbon Seatpost Vs Aluminum: Which One Is Better?

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Made By Cyclists

Best Bikes For Dirt Jumping

February 12, 2024

‍ Key Takeaways

• A good dirt jump bike balances strength, agility, and precise components.
• Aluminum and chromoly frames are popular for their weight and durability.
• Single rear brake, suspension type, and bike size are essential for riding style.

This article may contain affiliate links where we earn a commission from qualifying purchases.

‍ Unveiling the ultimate thrill of dirt jumping with the finest bikes designed to defy gravity and elevate your adrenaline rush.

The best bikes for dirt jumping excel in agility, durability, and maneuverability. Among the top choices are the Specialized P3, Trek Ticket, and Santa Cruz Jackal, known for their robust frames, responsive handling, and ability to tackle jumps with ease.

As a seasoned dirt jumping enthusiast with years of hands-on experience, I've tested countless bikes and fine-tuned my craft. From tweaking suspension setups to nailing the perfect line, I know what makes a bike soar. My expertise isn't just theoretical; it's forged through endless sessions on the dirt, dissecting every jump, and pushing the limits.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

‍ Best Bikes for Dirt Jumping

Dirt jumping is a thrilling branch of mountain biking that combines aerial stunts with dynamic movement on the ground, requiring a bike that's as robust as it is agile. Selecting the perfect dirt jump bike isn't just about the aesthetics; it hinges on finding the right geometry, build quality, and components that seamlessly cater to the aggressively playful style of riding that is intrinsic to the discipline.

The market offers a range of these specialized bikes, from hardtail frames designed for maximum maneuverability to full-suspension models for those looking for a more forgiving landing. Aluminum frames are common for their blend of strength and lightness, while steel frames, like 4130 chromoly, offer resilience and a distinct ride quality.

Bike size is particularly critical when it comes to dirt jumpers. Unlike BMX bikes which are more uniform in size, dirt jump mountain bikes often sport 26-inch wheels that complement the design aimed at handling sharp aerial turns and ensuring stable landings. No less important is the choice of chainrings, suspension, and brakes—usually a single rear brake for precision control—which need to harmonize with your style of riding.

Here’s a table comparing the key features of the best bikes for dirt jumping:

1. Specialized P3

The Specialized P3 is a bike with a rich legacy in dirt jumping, revered for its perfect blend of performance and durability. Let's dissect what makes the P3 stand out.

Specifications

• Frame Material: 6061-grade aluminum
• Fork: Custom P. Series dirt-specific fork
• Sizes Available : Multiple sizing options to fit riders

Performance

Your ride with the Specialized P3 is guaranteed to be stable yet responsive. Designed for aggressive riding, its compact build allows for easy turns and tricks.

What Sets It Apart

Among DJ bikes, the Specialized P3 is known for its jump-specific geometry and unique features that position it as an industry standout.

Recent Updates

With continuous evolution, the latest models of the P3 feature upgraded components ensuring that the bike maintains its edge in the market.

• A forgiving nature enhances the ride experience
• Near-bombproof construction ensures longevity
• Premium quality comes with a higher price tag
• Heavier than some competitors due to robust build

Who Should Buy It

The Specialized P3 is tailored for slopestyle riders, beginners to advanced, looking for a reliable and high-performing bike.

Where To Buy It

Purchase this bike from authorized dealers or the company's website for authentic and quality products.

2. Trek Ticket

The Trek Ticket is a prominent name in the dirt jumping scene, boasting a robust aluminum frame designed for aerial acrobatics and demanding terrain. Whether you're a seasoned rider or looking to get serious about dirt jumping, the Trek Ticket offers specifications and features tailored to enhance your performance and experience.

• Frame: Aluminum, compact geometry
• Fork: DJ-specific suspension fork for stability and precision
• Sizes: Available in multiple sizes to fit riders of all heights

The Trek Ticket's performance is characterized by its impressive agility in the air and stability during landings. The premium aluminum frame and responsive DJ fork allow you to execute tricks and turns with confidence.

What makes the Trek Ticket unique is its meticulously engineered frame that facilitates an optimal blend of strength and maneuverability. It is the result of continual evolution and dedication to the dirt jumping discipline by the Trek brand.

The latest models of the Trek Ticket incorporate thoughtful upgrades to enhance ride quality. From an evolved geometry to state-of-the-art components, every update aims to improve your control and the bike's performance on the jumps.

• Forgiven ride on rough landings
• Low-slung frame advantageous for tricks
• Certain limitations in versatility outside of dirt jumping
• A higher price point due to specialized features

The Trek Ticket is ideal for experienced riders looking to push their limits in dirt jumping. However, beginners may also appreciate its forgiving nature and stable performance, making it a worthwhile investment.

For purchasing a Trek Ticket, consider official Trek retailers or their official website with solid affiliations. Ensure you buy from reputable sources to guarantee authenticity and quality after-sales support.

3. Santa Cruz Jackal

The Santa Cruz Jackal is a name synonymous with high-quality dirt jumping. It is the epitome of what a good dirt jumper should be, offering a combination of a sturdy aluminum frame, precise geometry, and the quality expected from the Santa Cruz brand.

• Frame Material: Aluminum
• Wheel Size: 26 inches
• Tire Clearance: 2.5 inches
• Available Dropouts: 142x12mm geared or 135x10mm single-speed

When it comes to dirt jumping, the Santa Cruz Jackal impresses with its stable and responsive performance. It's designed to make 360s, jumps, and tricks feel seamless, giving you the confidence to push your limits.

Its compact geometry is a standout, allowing for sharp turns and high jumps. This bike isn't just about raw performance; it's about the sheer joy of dirt jumping.

The Jackal consistently evolves, ensuring that it remains a top choice for dirt jumpers. Upgrades in geometry and materials reflect Santa Cruz's commitment to evolution within the sport.

• Aluminum frame withstands the rigors of dirt jumping
• Renowned Santa Cruz quality ensures a smooth ride
• The premium quality comes at a cost
• Specifically designed for dirt jumping, not as versatile for other terrains

The Santa Cruz Jackal is perfect for riders looking for a high-performance, specialized dirt jumper that's built to last and designed to excite.

You can find the Santa Cruz Jackal on eBay , ensuring you shop with confidence, or you can purchase it directly from the Santa Cruz Bicycles official website .

4. NS Bikes Movement

When you're ready to take to the skies with a bike that is both resilient and lightweight, the NS Bikes Movement should be on your radar. Designed for the dirt jump enthusiast, the Movement series offers a combination of performance and agility that's hard to match.

Specification s

• Frame: NS Bikes custom butted 6061 T6 aluminum
• Fork: Manitou Circus Expert, 100mm travel
• Headset: GW integrated tapered IS42/IS52, sealed bearings
• Stem: NS Chemical 25.4
• Handlebar: NS Lick, 740mm
• Grips : NS Hold Fast Unlocked
• Brakes: Front and rear V-brake option
• Wheelset: NS Fundamental 26", 32h with Joytech 9mm bolt-on front hub
• Tires: Kenda Small Block 8 26”x2.1”
• Crankset : Race Face Chester 170mm 32T
• Bottom Bracket: Race Face Euro BB BSA
• Pedals: NS Nylon

Riders notice the exceptional stiffness and responsiveness on the first ride. Whether you're flying through pump tracks or perfecting your landings, the Movement is engineered to withstand the demands of dirt jumping.

The heart of the Movement line is its aluminum frames, recognized for a remarkable balance of strength and low weight. Professional riders choose it for its capability to excel in technical and demanding sessions.

The latest iterations of the NS Bikes Movement have seen enhancements in frame geometry, making them even more agile and rider-friendly for both seasoned pros and those newer to the sport.

• Makes it easier to get airtime
• Can handle repetitive landings and abuse
• Quick handling for tricky maneuvers
• Higher-end models may stretch budgets
• Some models come with V-brakes, which are less powerful than disc brakes

If you're passionate about dirt jumping or want to up your game in the pump track world, this could be your go-to ride. It targets riders who demand performance and durability in their aerial pursuits.

For the latest models and genuine NS Bikes Movement options, it's best to purchase directly from NS Bikes’ official website or an authorized dealer to ensure you're getting the real deal.

5. Giant STP

When you're eyeing the sky, eager for your wheels to take flight, the Giant STP series promises a ride that's built for the thrill of airborne adventure. Let's dive into what makes the STP your ideal dirt-jumping companion.

• Frame: ALUXX-Grade Aluminum
• Fork: Suspension, compatible with 120mm travel
• Wheels: 26-inch diameter
• Tires: High-volume, 2.4-inch width

Right off the bat, you'll notice the STP's responsiveness. Its combination of a robust aluminum frame and geometry designed for agility translates into a bike that's eager to obey your every command, mid-air or on track.

The STP stands out for its versatility. Whether you're dirt jumping, riding the street, or at the pump track, it transitions seamlessly. It's the Swiss Army knife in your bike arsenal.

Giant has fine-tuned the STP's design, tweaking the geometry for even better control and introducing larger wheels that provide a smooth ride over rough terrain. It's an evolution in motion.

• Lightweight aluminum frame
• Responsive handling
• Versatile for various riding styles
• Limited to 26-inch wheels
• Suitable mostly for dirt and street riding

You're the right rider for the STP if you're looking for a bike that can handle the jumps, the tricks, and the liberty of freestyle riding. It's for the bold and the agile.

You can get your hands on the Giant STP directly from Giant's official product page or check out your local bike shop to see them in person before buying.

6. Canyon Stitched

Canyon's Stitched series stands out in the dirt jumping bike community for its robust builds and performance-oriented design, specifically tailored to tackle the high demands of dirt jumps and pump tracks.

• Frame Material: Aluminum (Stitched 720), Carbon (Stitched CFR)
• Wheels: 26 inches
• Tires: Maxxis DTH
• Brakes: SRAM Level T, hydraulic disc

Canyon Stitched bikes are engineered for agility and durability. The lightweight frame and responsive suspension fork allow for precise control in the air and a smooth landing.

What makes Canyon Stitched unique is the inclusion of a full-suspension model, uncommon in dirt jump bikes, providing additional shock absorption for bigger jumps and rougher landings.

For the latest models, Canyon has introduced improved geometry and new color options, keeping the Stitched range fresh and up-to-date with current trends and technologies.

• Durable construction can withstand tough landings
• Lightweight design for easier trick execution
• Versatile for both dirt jumping and pump tracks
• Higher price compared to some competitors
• Limited size options may not suit all riders

If you're serious about dirt jumping and looking for a bike that can keep up with your progression and provide top-tier performance, the Canyon Stitched is for you.

The Canyon Stitched dirt jump bikes can be directly purchased from the Canyon's official website , ensuring you get the model and specifications that best fit your riding style.

7. Norco Rampage

The Norco Rampage is a bike specifically designed for dirt jumping, with decades of experience molded into its creation. It offers a modern design and jump-specific components ideal for pushing the limits in style and adrenaline.

• Frame: Aluminum, dirt jump specific geometry
• Fork: Manitou Circus Comp, 100mm travel
• Wheels: 26 inches, double-wall alloy rims
• Brakes: Hydraulic disc brakes
• Drivetrain: Single-speed with horizontal dropouts

The Rampage is engineered for the thrill of airtime and dedicated dirt jump performance. Its lightweight frame and responsive components allow for precision control in the air and on the track.

Norco's approach to dirt jumping results in a bike framed within a legacy of innovation and progressive design, standing out in its capability to elevate style and adrenaline simultaneously.

New engineering insights have led to holistic updates in the Rampage series, improvements that bolster both durability and dirt jump agility.

• Sturdy and agile frame designed for dirt jumping
• The responsive suspension provides a smooth landing
• Compact geometry enhances maneuverability in the air
• Limited to single-speed, which may not suit all riders
• Specific use design means it's not ideal for other cycling disciplines

The Rampage is for you if you're a rider focusing on dirt jumping and looking for a bike to match your high-flying style and push your limits in jump-specific scenarios.

You can purchase the Norco Rampage directly from Norco's official website , or check local bike shops for available models.

8. Commencal Absolut

The Commencal Absolut is a high-performing dirt jump bicycle known for its robust build and precision on the pump tracks. With features tailored for both amateur and professional riders, it stands out as a competitive choice.

Frame: Aluminum Fork: Manitou Circus Expert Wheels: 26 inches Brakes: Hydraulic Disc Crankset: BMX Style

When you take the Commencal Absolut for a spin, the smooth response and agility it offers are immediately noticeable. The Manitou Circus Expert fork provides you with 100mm of travel, which is ideal for absorbing those hard landings.

This bike's unique combination of a BMX crankset with mountain bike components gives you durability and versatility. It means you can tackle the dirt jumps with confidence and also adapt to different riding styles easily.

The latest models have seen upgrades in componentry, including a more robust wheelset and updated geometry to enhance stability in the air.

• Sturdy aluminum frame for longevity
• Responsive suspension fork
• Versatile for different styles of dirt jumping
• BMX crankset may not suit all riders
• Heavier than some comparable models

If you're passionate about dirt jumping and want a bike that can take a beating and keep performing, the Commencal Absolut is for you.

Ensure you purchase your Commencal Absolut from official Commencal retailers .

9. YT Industries Dirt Love

When it comes to dirt jumping mastery, the YT Industries Dirt Love is a name that resonates with performance and build quality.

• Frame : Hydro-formed chromoly steel
• Fork: RockShox Pike DJ, 100mm travel

Whether pumping speed on the track or launching off dirt ramps, the Dirt Love Core 1 translates your energy directly into motion, offering the precise control and responsive handling that dirt jumping demands.

Its signature feature is the CORE 1 Steel Frame, balancing low weight with robustness for both beginners and pros. Strength where you need it, lightness to keep you airborne.

This isn't just a bike; it's an aerial tool, honed to help you sculpt the sky.

Manufacturers have dialed up the durability and reduced excess weight on the Core 2 variant, ensuring the Dirt Love is capable of throwing down on the most demanding jumps.

They've listened to riders' feedback and made crucial tweaks, proving Dirt Love isn't just a product but a project in evolution.

• Superior bike control
• Durable construction
• Balanced weight for tricks
• Limited sizing options
• May require customization for advanced riders

If you're serious about dirt jumping and want a bike that grows with you, look no further. The Dirt Love series is designed for riders dedicated to honing their craft.

The YT Industries Dirt Love series, including Core 1 and Core 2, is accessible directly through YT US . Check their official page for a reliable purchase and direct support.

10. Scott Voltage

Discover the electrifying features of the Scott Voltage , a bike designed to elevate your dirt jumping experience. This section delves into its specifics, showcasing what truly sets this bike apart.

Frame: High-end Alloy Headtube: Tapered Chain Stays : Ultra-short, adjustable

The Scott Voltage delivers robust performance on pump tracks and dirt jumps. Its construction allows for excellent control and responsiveness when airborne or navigating tight sections.

The Voltage stands out with its pro-rider replica design, ensuring users have a bike crafted on the foundations of professional expertise and requirements for dirt jumping.

The Voltage continuously incorporates rider feedback to refine its design and component selection, enhancing durability and performance.

• Resistant to the high stresses of dirt jumping
• Tailor the bike fit and handling to your preference
• Primarily designed for dirt jumping, which may not be suited for all riders

If you're passionate about dirt jumping or looking for a pro-level bike, the Scott Voltage is your ideal ride.

For a genuine Scott Voltage bike, always refer to official Scott retailers or trusted sports equipment stores.

11. Haro Steel Reserve

The Haro Steel Reserve series is a line of high-quality dirt jump bikes that combine robust design with performance-oriented features. Known for their BMX-inspired construction, these bikes offer the durability and control required for aggressive dirt jumping.

• Frame: Full chromoly or 6061-T6 alloy
• Fork: Rigid chromoly or suspension forks with various travel options
• Wheels: 26-inch with sturdy rims and hubs
• Drivetrain: Single-speed setup designed for dirt jumping
• Brakes: Disc brakes for reliable stopping power

The Haro Steel Reserve is built to perform under extreme conditions, offering stiff, responsive control. It's designed with a dirt jumper's needs in mind, providing a perfect balance between weight and durability for mid-air maneuvers and hard landings.

This bike series stands out due to its BMX roots that influence the overall feel and responsiveness of the bike. This design approach ensures a ride tailored for dirt jump enthusiasts.

• Updated frame geometry for better stability
• Reinforced components to withstand rough landings
• Improved suspension options for versatile riding
• Ideal for enduring the stresses of dirt-jumping
• For precise control and maneuverability
• Available in various sizes to suit different heights
• Maybe a consideration for budget-conscious riders
• Single-speed may not be ideal for all riding styles

The Haro Steel Reserve is perfect for serious dirt jumpers looking to elevate their performance with a bike that's both resilient and responsive.

For purchasing the Haro Steel Reserve, Haro Bikes' official website lists the latest models.

12. Transition PBJ

The Transition PBJ is a celebrated dirt jump bike known for its robust frame and versatility in the pump track, dirt jumping, and slopestyle. Let's dive into what makes the PBJ a go-to for riders looking to elevate their game.

• Frame: Steel
• Front Travel : 100mm

Components:

• Fork: Generally equipped with suspension specialized for dirt jumping
• Handlebar: Wide bars for better control

The PBJ stands out for its exceptional handling and durability. It's designed to withstand the rigors of dirt jumping, offering the rider confidence and control in the air and on landings.

This model is a stalwart in the dirt jump community. Its long-standing presence in the lineup means it has been refined over time to meet the specific needs of dirt jumpers.

The PBJ has seen consistent updates to its geometry and specs to stay at the forefront of dirt jump bike technology, ensuring a modern ride quality.

• Built to handle tough landings and abuse
• Excels in various off-road disciplines
• Steel frames can be heavier than other materials
• Quality comes with a higher cost compared to entry-level models

If you're serious about dirt jumping and need a bike that can keep up with your progression, the PBJ is tailored for you.

You can purchase the Transition PBJ directly from Transition Bikes or through select bike shops specializing in high-quality mountain biking equipment.

13. Kona Shonky

The Kona Shonky is a bike that stands out in the dirt jumping scene, combining robust construction with agile performance. Renowned for its precision on pump tracks and dirt jumps, this bike offers an exhilarating experience for riders looking to push their limits.

• Frame: Kona Cromoly Butted
• Fork: Manitou Circus Expert 100mm
• Crankset : Samox DJ
• Wheels : 26"
• Brakes: Hydraulic Tektro

When you take the Shonky to the track, expect a bike that responds to your every move with its sturdy but nimble build. The Manitou Circus Expert fork ensures a smooth landing even after the most daring jumps.

The Shonky's unique approach to sizing is rare in the world of dirt jump bikes. It allows a more customized fit, which means better control and comfort while you're airborne or carving through corners.

The latest iteration of the Shonky reflects Kona's commitment to dialing in the dirt jump experience. Upgrades in frame geometry and components ensure that the Shonky stays at the forefront of dirt jump and pump track performance.

• The Cromoly frame withstands the rigors of dirt-jumping
• A compact geometry allows for easier tricks and jumps
• Primarily designed for dirt jumping, not as versatile as some other bikes
• Comes with a single rear brake, which may not suit everyone's riding style

If you're committed to dirt jumping or pump track riding, the Shonky is the bike that can take your skills to the next level. Whether you're an experienced rider or new to the sport, this bike has the specs you need.

Ideally, your first stop should be Kona's official website for purchasing the Shonky.

14. Dartmoor Two6Player

Recognized as a leading choice in the dirt jump bike scene, the Dartmoor Two6Player combines robust construction with performance-oriented features.

Frame: AL 6061-T6 Fork: Marzocchi DJ or RS Pike DJ Colors Availability: Green Olive, Sand Storm

The Dartmoor Two6Player is designed to handle the toughest jumps and tracks with ease. Its geometry and suspension fork options provide great control and stability in the air and upon landing.

The bike's durability is a standout, with a strong aluminum frame that's been the choice of riders for over a decade.

For the latest model, the Dartmoor Two6Player has enhanced its design and introduced new color options, solidifying its status in the dirt jumping domain. Details about these updates can be found on the Dartmoor Two6Player Pro product page.

• Lightweight and durable frame
• Versatile fork options
• Reliable performance in dirt jumping conditions
• May require additional customizations for professional riders
• Price point could be a barrier for some

You'll find the Dartmoor Two6Player to be an excellent choice if you are passionate about dirt jumping or slopestyle riding and need a reliable and high-performing bike.

To purchase the Dartmoor Two6Player, visit Dartmoor's official website or select bike shops that specialize in high-quality dirt jump bikes.

15. Pivot Point

The Pivot Point stands out as a premium choice for dirt jump enthusiasts. Crafted from chromoly steel, this bike is engineered for durability and optimal performance in dirt jumping, pump tracks, and freestyle maneuvers.

• Frame: Chromoly Steel
• Fork Travel: 100mm (compatible with 80-100mm forks)
• Head Angle: 69 degrees
• Seat Angle: 72.5 degrees
• Price: $1,799.00

You can expect a bike that responds eagerly to your every move. The Pivot Point is engineered to deliver top-notch handling, enabling you to execute sharp turns and high-flying tricks with precision and confidence.

What sets the Pivot Point apart is its frame material. The double-butted 4130 chromoly steel provides a perfect balance of strength, flexibility, and durability that's hard to find elsewhere.

Pivot has recently updated the geometry of the Point bike to stay ahead of the curve, ensuring that it remains a top choice for riders looking for stability and control.

• Smooth and responsive for tricks and jumps
• Built to withstand the rigors of dirt jumping
• Pivot Cycles is known for quality and innovation
• Higher upfront cost compared to some competitors
• May be difficult to find for some buyers due to the popularity

If you're serious about dirt jumping and looking for a bike that will deliver performance time and time again, the Pivot Point is designed for you.

To purchase the Pivot Point, you can visit an authorized dealer or find a trusted online retailer for the best availability.

Tips on Choosing the Best Dirt Jumping Bike

Embarking on the exhilarating journey of selecting the perfect dirt jumping bike requires careful consideration of several key factors to ensure an optimal match for your riding style and preferences.

Frame Material Matters

Consider the frame material carefully. Aluminum frames are lightweight and durable, while steel frames offer excellent strength and resilience.

Suspension or Rigid?

Decide whether you prefer a bike with suspension or a rigid frame. Suspension forks provide cushioning on landings but add weight, whereas rigid frames offer a more direct feel.

Opt for a wheel size that suits your riding style and preference. Most dirt jump bikes feature 26-inch wheels, offering a balance of agility and stability.

Durability and Strength

Ensure the bike's components are built to withstand the rigors of dirt jumping. Look for sturdy components and robust construction that can handle the impacts of jumps and tricks.

Fit and Geometry

Choose a bike with a geometry that feels comfortable and responsive for your body type and riding style. Test ride different models to find the one that feels the most natural and agile.

Budget Considerations

Set a budget that aligns with your needs and expectations. While higher-end models may offer advanced features and components, there are plenty of excellent options available at various price points.

Frequently Asked Questions

When diving into the world of dirt jumping, seeking the right bike can be as thrilling as the jump itself. Here, we'll tackle some common queries to jump-start your airborne adventures.

What are the top characteristics to look for in a beginner's dirt jumping bike?

For beginners, a dirt jump bike should have a strong yet lightweight frame, typically aluminum, with a low standover height for confidence during tricks and jumps. Responsive and durable brakes are non-negotiable for control and safety.

How do full-suspension bikes perform compared to hardtails for dirt jumping?

Full-suspension bikes offer more comfort and control on rough landings, but they may lack the direct feel and responsiveness that hardtails deliver. Hardtails are lighter and typically more favored for dirt jumping due to their simplicity and transfer of energy during takeoff.

What is considered a competitive weight for a dirt jump bike?

A competitive weight for a dirt jump bike is generally between 25 to 30 pounds. This allows riders to have optimal control in the air while maintaining enough sturdiness to handle the impact of landings.

Can you recommend affordable dirt jumping bikes that stay under $500?

Finding a new dirt jump bike under $500 might be challenging considering the build required for the sport. However, searching for used bikes or entry-level models may be a viable option to stay within budget. Keep an eye on brands that offer reliable yet affordable options.

What are the benefits of specific dirt jumper frames on the market?

Dirt jumper frames are designed to balance maneuverability and resilience. Some frames boast hydroformed tubing for strength without excess weight, while others offer geometry tailored for precise handling during tricks and jumps. Choosing a frame often depends on personal preference and riding style.

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About THE AUTHOR

Danny Lawson

Mountain biking is more than just a hobby for me - it's a way of life. I love the challenge and excitement that comes with it, and I'm always pushing myself to go faster and ride harder. Some people might think that mountain biking is dangerous, but I see it as the only way to live.

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Is 120mm Travel Enough for Trail?

Today I’m gonna talk about one of the most hotly debated topics in mountain biking – is 120mm of travel enough for trail riding?.

Now, I know what you’re thinking, “Jerry, you’re just another opinionated blogger spouting off nonsense.”

But hear me out, because I’ve got some real-world experience under my belt.

See, I used to be a hardcore XC rider, the kind of guy who thought anything more than 100mm of travel was for wussies.

But then I took a spill on a gnarly descent and realized that maybe, just maybe, a little extra squish in my suspension could make a big difference in my overall ride experience.

So, I took the plunge and upgraded to a bike with 120mm of travel.

And lemme tell you, it was a game changer.

But, the question remains – is 120mm of travel enough for trail riding?

Well, the answer, my friends, is a bit more complicated than a simple yes or no.

Table of Contents

The Pros of 120mm Travel for Trail Riding

There are several advantages to having 120mm of travel on your trail bike .

Firstly, it’s a good balance between efficiency and capability.

With 120mm, you’re still able to pedal efficiently on flatter sections, but you’ve also got enough suspension to handle the rougher stuff.

Another pro of 120mm travel is that it’s versatile.

With this amount of travel, you can tackle a wide range of trails, from smooth singletrack to technical descents.

It’s a great choice for riders who want to do a little bit of everything, without having to compromise on performance.

The Cons of 120mm Travel for Trail Riding

Of course, there are also some downsides to having 120mm of travel on your trail bike .

The first is that it may not be enough for the absolute gnarliest terrain.

If you’re a downhiller at heart, or you regularly find yourself on the most technical trails, you may want to consider a bike with more travel.

Another con is that a bike with 120mm of travel may not be as efficient on long, climbing-heavy rides.

If you’re the kind of rider who spends most of their time grinding up steep climbs, a lighter, XC-oriented bike may be a better choice.

Unleashing the Trail Warrior Within: Understanding Suspension Travel

Let’s get on the same wavelength when it comes to suspension travel. Picture your bike’s suspension as a superhero, tirelessly battling the forces of rough terrain.

Suspension travel refers to the distance the superhero’s cape (or rather, the shock absorber) can move up and down.

When it comes to trail riding, the amount of suspension travel you need depends on various factors. Let’s break it down:

1. The Type of Trail

Not all trails are created equal.

Some trails are as smooth as a baby’s bottom, while others are as wild as a bull in a china shop. The rougher the trail, the more suspension travel you’ll want to have in your arsenal.

2. Your Riding Style

Are you a speed demon, craving adrenaline-fueled descents? Or do you prefer a more mellow approach, savoring the scenic beauty of the trail?

Your riding style plays a significant role in determining how much suspension travel is right for you.

3. Your Body Weight

As much as we hate to admit it, our body weight influences the performance of our bike’s suspension. If you’re a lean, mean trail machine, you might get away with less suspension travel.

But if you’re packing a few extra pounds (we won’t judge), you might want to consider beefing up your suspension.

4. Your Tolerance for Discomfort

Think of your suspension as a comfy recliner. The more travel it has, the more it cushions you from the bumps and jolts of the trail.

If you’re a fan of a plush, smooth ride , you’ll lean towards more suspension travel. But if you enjoy feeling every nook and cranny of the trail, you might find 120mm to be just right.

5. Your Skill Level and Confidence

Let’s be real here: not all of us are born with the skills of a mountain biking pro.

If you’re a beginner or still building your confidence on the trail, 120mm of travel can provide a forgiving ride while allowing you to develop your skills.

As you progress and tackle more challenging trails, you may consider upgrading to a bike with greater suspension travel.

The Goldilocks Dilemma: Finding the Right Balance

Now that I’ve explored the factors that influence your suspension travel needs, it’s time to find that sweet spot, like Goldilocks seeking the perfect porridge.

Here are a few tips to help you strike the right balance:

• Test Ride: Don’t be shy to take different bikes for a spin and see how they handle the trails you love. It’s like trying on shoes—some will fit like a glove, while others might pinch your toes.
• Consider Upgrades: If you’re rocking a 120mm travel bike but craving a bit more cushiness, you can explore upgrading the suspension components to improve the overall performance.
• Experiment with Tire Pressure: Adjusting your tire pressure can make a surprising difference in how your bike feels on the trail. Play around with it and find the sweet spot that maximizes comfort without sacrificing control.
• Master Your Technique: Remember, technique plays a vital role in conquering the trail. By honing your skills and learning to read the terrain, you can make the most of your bike’s capabilities, regardless of its travel.

Choosing the Right Fork and Rear Shock: Unleash the Trail Beast!

Let’s talk about something that can take your ride from ordinary to extraordinary—the fork and rear shock.

These two components are like the dynamic duo of suspension, and getting the right ones can make your trail experience out-of-this-world amazing.

Buckle up and let’s dive into more details!

Travel Options: Finding Your Suspension Sweet Spot

When it comes to travel options, it’s like choosing the perfect dessert—it has to be just right. You want enough travel to soak up the bumps and keep you comfortable, but not too much that you lose efficiency.

For trail riding, a common range is around 120mm to 150mm of travel. If you’re tackling gnarlier terrain, like technical descents or enduro races, you might lean towards 150mm to 170mm or more.

Remember, the right amount of travel can make a world of difference in how your bike performs.

Adjustability: The Secret Sauce to Customizing Your Ride

Adjustability is like having a personal chef who can cater to your every culinary whim.

With forks and rear shocks that offer adjustable features, you can fine-tune your suspension to match your riding style, the trail conditions, and even your mood.

Want a plush and forgiving ride? Dial in more compression and rebound damping.

Craving efficiency and snappy handling?

Firm up your suspension to reduce bobbing and maximize pedal power. Adjustability allows you to tailor your ride like a custom-made suit, ensuring optimal performance and comfort.

Compatibility: A Match Made in Suspension Heaven

Compatibility is like finding your perfect dance partner—it’s all about harmony and synchrony.

When selecting a fork and rear shock, you need to ensure they are compatible with your bike’s frame, wheel size, and axle standards.

Check the specifications of your bike and the suspension components to ensure they match up.

Some forks and shocks are designed specifically for certain frame geometries or wheel sizes, so make sure you choose components that play well together.

A well-matched fork and rear shock create a seamless connection, allowing you to unlock the full potential of your bike’s suspension system.

The All-Mountain Marvel

You’re tackling a rocky, technical section of the trail, feeling like a superhero defying gravity.

Your bike is equipped with a 150mm travel fork that features adjustable compression and rebound damping.

As you hit a big drop, the fork effortlessly absorbs the impact, smoothing out the landing and keeping you in control.

The rear shock, with its air-sprung design and adjustable sag, keeps your rear wheel glued to the ground, providing traction like a gecko on a glass window.

This combination of a well-matched fork and rear shock ensures a plush and responsive ride, allowing you to confidently tackle the most challenging all-mountain trails.

The Cross-Country Cruiser

Now imagine this: you’re pedaling through a flowy singletrack, effortlessly climbing those hills like a mountain goat on espresso.

Your bike is equipped with a lightweight 120mm travel fork with a lockout feature, allowing you to firm up the suspension for efficient climbing.

The rear shock, designed for cross-country riding, offers a platform mode that minimizes pedal-induced bobbing, maximizing your power transfer.

As you navigate tight corners and technical descents, the responsive fork and rear shock keep your bike nimble and agile, allowing you to maintain control and carve through the trails with precision.

This combination of a lightweight, adjustable fork and a responsive rear shock ensures a fast and efficient cross-country ride, perfect for those who want to cover long distances and tackle varied terrain with speed and finesse.

So, my friend, remember the importance of choosing the right fork and rear shock—it can be the key to unlocking your trail beast potential.

Consider the travel options that suit your riding style and the type of terrain you’ll be conquering.

Embrace the adjustability that allows you to fine-tune your suspension for optimal performance and comfort.

And don’t forget about compatibility—ensure that the fork and rear shock you choose are a perfect match for your bike’s frame and wheel size.

Now go out there, be bold, and conquer those trails like the legend you are!

Can I ride technical trails with a 120mm travel bike?

Absolutely! While a bike with more travel may offer additional forgiveness, a 120mm travel bike can handle technical trails just fine.

It may require more finesse and precise line choices, but it’s all part of the challenge and fun.

Will I be slower with a 120mm travel bike?

Speed is more than just the amount of travel your bike has. It’s about skill, fitness, and overall bike setup.

While a bike with more travel may excel in certain situations, a skilled rider on a 120mm travel bike can still tear up the trails.

Can I still do big jumps and drops with 120mm of travel?

A: It depends on your riding style and the size of the jumps and drops.

For most riders, 120mm of travel will be sufficient for smaller jumps and drops.

However, if you’re looking to huck yourself off massive jumps, you may want to consider a bike with more travel.

Is 120mm of travel better than 100mm or 140mm?

A: It’s not a matter of better or worse, it’s a matter of what’s right for you. If you’re looking for a good balance of efficiency and capability, 120mm of travel may be the sweet spot.

What is the difference between 120mm travel and longer travel?

The main difference between 120mm travel and longer travel is the amount of suspension travel.

Bikes with longer travel have more cushioning and can handle bigger hits and drops, while bikes with shorter travel are lighter and more nimble.

Is 120mm travel enough for downhill riding?

No, 120mm travel is not enough for serious downhill riding.

These bikes are better suited for cross-country and trail riding , not for high-speed descents and big jumps.

Can I upgrade my 120mm travel bike to have more travel?

Yes, you can upgrade your bike to have more travel.

You can install a longer travel fork and rear shock, but keep in mind that this will likely result in a heavier and less nimble bike.

Should I upgrade to a bike with more travel?

That depends on your personal preferences and how you feel on your current bike.

If you find yourself consistently pushing the limits of your bike’s capabilities or tackling more demanding trails, upgrading to a bike with greater travel could enhance your riding experience.

Is 120mm travel suitable for all riders?

No two riders are alike, and individual preferences vary.

While 120mm travel can be sufficient for many riders, if you seek more aggressive or extreme riding experiences might opt for bikes with higher travel.

It ultimately comes down to your specific needs and goals.

Can I use my 120mm travel bike for other disciplines?

Indeed! While 120mm travel is commonly associated with trail riding, it doesn’t mean your bike is limited to that.

With some adjustments, you can explore cross-country adventures, light enduro trails, or even dabble in bikepacking. Your trusty steed is versatile!

Finding Your Trail Bliss

So, dear friend, is 120mm travel enough for the trail?

The answer lies in the dynamic interplay of your riding style, the trail’s terrain, and your personal preferences.

While a bike with more travel might offer a bit more cushioning and forgiveness, a 120mm travel bike can still be a trusty companion on your trail adventures.

Remember, it’s not just about the numbers—it’s about the joy of riding, the thrill of conquering obstacles, and the freedom to explore nature’s playground.

If you’re looking for a light and nimble bike for cross-country and trail riding, then 120mm travel may be perfect for you.

But if you want a bike that can handle the most technical terrain, then you may want to consider a bike with more travel.

It’s important to find a bike that meets your specific needs and allows you to ride at your best.

So, don’t be afraid to experiment and try different travel lengths until you find the perfect fit for you.

Remember, it’s all about having fun on the trails and finding the bike that allows you to do just that!

Jerry Taylor

120mm vs 140mm Travel Forks: Which is Right for You?

120mm vs 140mm Travel Forks : Which is Right for You? The fork that you are using is either 120mm or 140mm. These two travel types can be compared in different ways and have a lot of nuances to them, but let’s take a look at the basics first before comparing each type on its own.

In this article, we will provide a comparison of the two forks by looking at their strengths and weaknesses in different settings as well as general recommendations for bike size to use with each fork

120mm Forks Overview

A 120mm travel fork is a common option for mountain biking . The 120mm fork is a good choice for smoother trails. The 120mm fork is a good option for riders who want a light and responsive fork. The 120mm fork is also a good option for riders who want a short travel fork.

It offers good performance on XC and trail bikes , making it a versatile choice for a variety of riders.

On the other hand, for riders who are looking for a short travel fork, the 120mm fork is an excellent option. It provides a smooth and consistent ride on different types of terrain. Additionally, it is easier to maintain and has less moving parts than a 140mm fork .

140mm Forks Overview

The 140mm travel fork is a middle-of-the-range fork that shares the same high-end damper technologies as the Factory forks with FIT4 and FIT GRIP2 options. The upper legs just have a black anodised finish rather than the Kashima coat.

For uphill, 90% of the time 140mm forks will do just fine. If you’re looking for a fork mainly for downhill riding and some climbing, then go with a 120mm option . But if you want a versatile fork that can handle anything from playful riding to all out bombing, then go with a 140mm travel fork.

140mm travel forks are great for a variety of reasons. First and foremost, they offer more speed and stability than a 120mm fork. Additionally, they come with a great warranty that makes them an affordable option.

Nevertheless, there are a few key factors to consider when choosing the right 140mm travel fork for your mountain bike .

The weight, stanchion thickness, and travel all increase with each new model to meet the demands of different disciplines – but longer forks aren’t superior in every application.

Make sure to choose the fork that fits both your riding style and the terrain you typically ride.

120mm vs 140mm Travel Forks: A Complete Comparison

Performance.

Essentially, there is not a huge difference between 120mm and 140mm travel forks for mountain biking. For downhill, 90% of the trails will be fine with 120mm.

Likewise, for uphill, 90% of the trails will be fine with 140mm.

140mm forks are slightly heavier than 120mmm bike fork by about a pound. For carbon forks, the 140mm fork is slightly heavier by about 1/2 pound.

Forks with more travel tend to be heavier than those with less travel because of the additional sturdiness required to handle the greater force from the larger wheels.

Installation

They are both easy to install, and they both have an air spring that can be adjusted to suit your weight.

This is a matter of personal preference and what dictates your riding style. If you are looking for maximum comfort, then 120mm will be the best option for you.

If weight savings is your main concern, then 140mm is the better choice .

Generally speaking, if you are looking for a bike that can take on any terrain and will last long with minimal maintenance or care needed, then a 120mm travel fork will be the best option.

If you are looking for an aggressive, fast bike that can handle rough terrain and jumps, then 140mm is your best bet.

Type of ride

The 120mm fork is the most common length for a mountain bike. The 140mm travel forks are not as popular, but they do exist and can be an excellent option for those who want to have a more smooth and controlled ride.

The main difference between the two is that 140mm forks are about 35% stiffer than 120mm forks for any given weight or travel.

Bikes with good angles will be faster than bikes without. A bike’s geometry is what determines its angles and how fast it will go.

That being said, there are other factors to consider when choosing a fork travel length, such as how you ride and the terrain you ride on.

If you’re looking for a general rule of thumb, 120mm forks tend to be faster than 140mm forks, but it ultimately depends on the individual rider and their needs.

There are three main factors that affect a bike’s speed: weight, drag, and rolling resistance. Of those three, weight has the biggest impact on speed. This is why road bikes are typically faster than mountain bikes – they are lighter.

The 120mm fork is more affordable than a 140mm bike fork. A 140 mm travel fork is a great choice for a mountain bike because it offers good performance and value.

The fork is also adjustable to fit different rider heights, and it includes pro pedal back shock technology to provide extra comfort and control.

Is 120mm enough for trail riding?

A 120mm travel fork is a great option for most Trail riders. It provides enough travel to handle most obstacles and is narrower, which makes it more maneuverable. If you are looking for a little more travel, a 140mm fork may be right for you.

Do I need 140mm of travel or will 120mm do for a new bike?

The decision of whether or not you need 140mm of travel or 120mm of travel is a personal preference. The main difference between the two types of travel is that 140mm provides more cushioning when hitting bumps in the road.

If you are new to mountain biking, it is recommended that you get a bike with at least 120mm of travel in order to prevent any injuries.

120mm vs 140mm Travel Forks: Which Full Suspension Bike is Right for You?

When it comes to full-suspension mountain bikes, there are two main types of forks: 120mm and 140mm. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages that you should take into account before making a purchase.

A full-suspension mountain bike will be much more expensive than a hard-tail mountain bike. However, it is worth noting that a full-suspension bike is also going to be much more comfortable to ride and able to handle higher drops.

Although, this does come at the cost of reduced ability to put power into the trial. In other words, if you’re looking for a racing bike, a hardtail might be a better option.

A full suspension is also going to add the components to your mountain bike so by definition will be heavier than a hard-tail. This can make it difficult to maneuver on tight trails.

Additionally, because there are more parts, maintenance becomes an issue. Again, the more parts you add the more that can go wrong and the more that needs to be adjusted.

So, 120mm vs 140mm Travel Forks, which type of fork is right for you? It really depends on what you’re looking for in a bike.

If you want something that’s comfortable and can handle tougher terrain, go with a full suspension. If you’re looking for a lighter bike that’s easier to maneuver, go with a hard tail.

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Is 80mm Fork Travel Good? (Various Biking Scenarios Explained)

You’ll see plenty of variations when looking at suspension forks on different bikes. So, today let’s take a look at an 80mm travel fork to decide if it’s any good? 

80mm fork travel is good for cross country riding where you’ll face different types of terrain like singletrack, forest paths, and smooth roads. However, if you’re looking at mountain biking and you’re anything above beginner level, then 80mm will make your ride uncomfortable .

Below we’ll cover fork travel in greater depth along with other related travel suspension fork topics so you can understand everything you need to be confident in your suspension fork’s travel. 

Are 80mm Travel Forks Good? 

If you’re just starting to understand bike components for the first time, then one area that can get real confusing real fast is fork travel.

As we talked about above, it depends on what you’re using it for. 80mm travel is good for relatively smooth terrain with just a few bumps or uneven elements here and there – such as a forest path. It will help soften the impact of these bumps and make your bike more balanced, and easy to ride.

It’ll be a more comfortable ride, too. Essentially, 80mm fork travel is good for smoothing out imperfections, but it’s not good for dealing with big impacts . 

Anything that involves any sort of air time, or any route that’s particularly rough, bumpy, or uneven, will feel uncomfortable with just 80mm of travel. In fact, it could cause an injury if you’re using a fork with just 80mm of travel for a more complex route. 

Fork travel refers to how much wiggle room the wheel has with the suspension before the suspension fork stops absorbing some of the impact of the road and/or jumps, etc. With 80mm, the suspension fork can ‘travel’ 80mm before it ‘bottoms out’ and you start feeling the impacts .

Forks With Greater Travel Explained 

So, if 80mm travel is good for some things, what happens when you increase the travel amount on different forks? Considering you can easily find forks with 120-150mm of travel, that’s a pretty big difference, but what do they do? 

The larger the travel, the more impact the bike can take before it ‘bottoms out’ and you feel the impact yourself through the rest of the bike. That’s great, right? Well, it is for downhill riding, because larger travel equals a smoother, more controlled descent.

You’ll be able to handle really rough terrain with greater travel; just be prepared for a difference in handling and speed as a result.

But everything has a downside. Here are some of the ways greater travel can negatively affect your bikes performance :

• It’ll be heavier – because the fork is larger and so are the stanchions that stop the fork from flexing too much
• It’ll be more sluggish – the bike is slacker, and it shortens the reach when the fork has greater travel, and that means a more sluggish bike that’s slower to respond to handling, making it a less agile bike overall
• It’ll feel different – this is the most important thing of all, because if you’re used to your bike performing a certain way right now – then a bike with greater travel on the fork will feel drastically different, so you’ll need to get used to that again

Of course, those downsides shouldn’t stop you. If you head out on gnarly tracks in the mountains and need that extra cushion on descents to make your ride more comfortable, then a bike with greater fork travel is perfect.

You’ll be able to handle really rough terrain with greater travel; just be prepared for a difference in handling and speed as a result. 

Can I Swap My 80mm Fork For One With Greater Travel? 

With most bikes, swapping out an 80mm fork for a 100mm fork is doable , but adding a for with a longer travel isn’t practical or feasible in most cases. You’ll need to be prepared for the differences mentioned above, but also for some consequences. 

When manufacturers design their bikes, they do so holistically. They make sure every part has its place, and it’s able to perform its duty for the intended use of the bike. Mountain bikes designed for advanced tracks will already have higher travel forks, and a stronger frame etc to boot.

So, if you need to upgrade your bike’s fork to one with greater travel, you can do so, but just be aware that the rest of your bike probably isn’t designed for it . That means any warranties will be void, and any problems with your bike’s performance or any damages will be completely on you. 

Still, switching out a fork is much cheaper than buying a whole new bike , so if you want a fork with greater travel, switching them is possible and it’ll make your bike much more suitable to the more advanced, uneven tracks you want to try out. 

Can You Use A Fork With 80mm Travel For Downhill Riding? 

If you decide to give downhill riding a go, an 80mm fork will feel unsteady on the descent, uncomfortable, and outright dangerous .

Downhill bikes usually have fork travel of 160mm+ so they can handle the challenging terrain at high speeds, which makes 80mm forks mostly unsuitable, and dangerous for downhill riding. In fact, most bikes with such short fork travel are usually trekking hybrids, which don’t have the structural strength to be exposed to such forces.

Downhill bikes are full suspension bicycles, whereas bikes with only 80mm of fork travel usually only have a front suspension to dampen some road imperfections on mostly smooth forest or urban roads.

Do I Need A Fork At All If I Only Ride On Low-Quality Paved Roads? 

Do you need a fork if you are simply riding on low-quality paved roads? No. Would it make things a lot smoother if you had one? Absolutely. The thing with an 80mm travel fork is that 80mm isn’t a lot of travel, but that doesn’t mean it’s useless.

It makes most journeys more comfortable, and with the condition of some of the paved roads these days, an 80mm travel fork will help cushion the impact of some of those imperfections and bumps in the road . 

Of course, you could just opt to avoid forks with travel altogether, and although some low-quality paved roads are pretty rough, you wouldn’t exactly hurt yourself or feel overly uncomfortable on the road with a fork without travel.

Still, if you want a comfortable ride, even if you only use paved roads, a fork with a small amount of travel will definitely help. 

Do All Forks Have Travel? 

Not all forks have travel because not all bikes need that element of suspension . Road bikes, fitness bikes , fixies, dutch style bikes for example, aren’t likely to run into terrain that’s uneven enough to warrant a fork with travel, so they come without suspension forks.

Sam Benkoczy

Hi, I'm Sam. I own and maintain 6 e-bikes, 15 regular bikes (road bikes, folding bikes, hybrid bikes, city bikes among others). I learned about bikes from my local bike mechanic as well as from bike maintenance courses. I love being out there in the saddle, and using my bike as a practical means of transportation. You can also find me on my YouTube channel at youtube.com/bikecommuterhero Say hi to me at [email protected].

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