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Home » Europe » France » The TASTIEST Food Tours in Paris | The Broke Backpacker (2024 Guide)

The TASTIEST Food Tours in Paris | The Broke Backpacker (2024 Guide)

Ah, mon amour, Paris . The city of light, love, and food that says damn, the French definitely do something right . 

I’m talking macarons, crêpes, croissants – you know, our kings. But we’ve also got champagne on tap, fresh escargot, and mussels (or moules ) cooked to heavenly perfection. If you’re a foodie, you’ll be a sucker for Paris.

When looking for good food in Paris, choosing where to eat can be a bit of a dilemma. As the most visited city in the WORLD, some places feel very touristy and lack the charm you’d expect from the French capital of cuisine.

Luckily, there are plenty of passionate locals that can point out the best places to eat in Paris, as well as what to try when you’re here. Whether you’re dining in the boogie boulevards of Le Marais, or heading to the high-end bistros of Saint Germain des Prés, Paris has a culinary treat for every taste bud.

If you’re a foodie fan and you’re looking to taste your way around the city, then you’re going to love these very best food tours in Paris. Let’s offer your palette the best food you’ll ever sample.

Bon appetit!

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Food in Paris – Why is it Special? 

Paris foodie neighborhood breakdown , 7 best food tours in paris, final thoughts on food tours in paris.

On a trip to Paris , you may cruise down the River Seine to look at the city’s historical monuments, or swing by the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, or the Louvre. The reign of the Sun King, Marie Antoinette’s Cake, the French Revolution, and the 100-Year War have all left their mark on the French capital.

And while these are all perfectly interesting, it’s not a representation of Parisian food. French cuisine is world-famous . “Bon appetit”, is a globally recognized phrase for ‘have a good meal’. It’s fair to say that the French are food obsessed as a culture. 

Famous French dishes include duck confit, escargots (snails), moules-frites, and coq au vin. While lighter lunch bites such as croque monsieur, jambon-beurre, and French onion soup are just as popular with the locals.

If the variety of French foods doesn’t get you excited, then how about the quality? France is the home of many globally renowned chefs, and anyone worth their salt in the cooking world will have studied French cooking or Cordon Bleu.

It’s also the home of the Michelin Star. Originally a tire manufacturer, Michelin is based in Clermont-Ferrand in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of France. Today, it’s your sign for the best restaurants in the world. 

In 1900, they set out with a simple goal; to rate the country’s restaurants and eateries to find the best places to stop on a road trip. They are now a globally recognized sign of high-quality food.

The Original District Food & Wine Tasting Tour

• > Where: Le Marais
• > Includes: Food tastings such as chocolate, macarons, cheeses, and cured meat, Alcoholic Beverages, Bottled water
• > Duration: 3.5 Hours
• > Price: €110.00

Sweet Gourmet Specialties Tasting Tour

• > Where: Saint Germain des Pres Quarter or Le Marais
• > Includes: Taste pastries, chocolates, and a variety of breads Walking tour (maximum 8 people), Local guide
• > Duration: 3 Hours
• > Price: €110.78

Learn How to Make Fresh Croissants

• > Where: The Maison Fleuret in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés
• > Includes: Cooking lesson, eat/take home your creations, drinks, recipe card
• > Duration: 2.5 Hours
• > Price: €95

Now before we dive into the best food tours in Paris, let’s talk the best foodie neighborhoods in Paris . It’s worth knowing where to start exploring.

Le Marais is one of the most popular areas for Paris foodie tours. It’s also known as SoMa, short for South Marais.

The area is filled to the brim with beautiful architecture. Visit art galleries, unique boutiques, hidden gardens, and, of course, famous bistros in this fabulous arrondissement of the city.

Once the city’s Jewish quarter, the area still hosts numerous kosher restaurants with a multicultural diversity of food. Visit the nearby Marché des Enfants Rouges, Paris’s oldest covered market: sample cheeses, wine, oysters, falafel, crêpes, boeuf bourguignon, and crème brûlée.

Montmartre is a ramshackle hub of Parisian life. The area was once home to Van Gogh, Toulouse-Lautrec, Picasso, and many other artists and entertainers. 

Sample croissants and éclairs at a local pâtisserie, people-watch while chowing down on escargot. Catch a cabaret show (with a glass of champers, of course). Montmartre is also home to some of the best bars and nightlife in the city.

Away from the tourist crowds, Belleville is an edgy neighborhood in Paris. The area hosts a monthly street food market sprawling along Boulevard de Belleville with tables and culinary delights from all over France. There’s also a Chinese quarter, with grocery stores and no-frills restaurants serving quality Asian food.

This central area is home to some of the best food in Paris. Saint Germain des Prés is full of culinary artisans, including France’s best chocolate and pastry chefs. One such artisan is famed chocolatier Debauve & Gallais, a favorite of Marie Antoinette.

Angelina is the most famous café for chocolate chaud in Paris, just north of the Tuileries Garden along the iconic Champs-Élysées. But Les Deux Magots in St Germain de Pres is equally popular, serving up velvety smooth chocolate by the jug .

Another example of the must-try food in Paris is the macarons at Ladurée. There’s one on the Champs-Élysées, but the restaurant near Saint Germain on Rue Bonaparte is much quieter.

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So we know where to find the best food in Paris, it’s time to start looking at food tours in Paris to add to your itinerary . These tours offer the best places to eat and are organized by a local guide. Come hungry!

1. The Original District Food & Wine Tasting Tour – The Best Overall Paris Food Tour

• Where: Le Marais
• Duration: 3.5 Hours
• Includes: Food tastings such as chocolate, macarons, cheeses, and cured meat, alcoholic beverages, bottled water
• Price: €110.00

Visit the heart of the Paris culinary scene with this best-of-the-best food tour. Discover the iconic district of Le Marais on the Right Bank of Paris to get under the city’s skin.

Wander past iconic Parisian sights like Hôtel de Ville and visit the oldest covered market in Paris, Marche des Enfants Rouges. Stop at up to 10 shops and other food vendors to sample wines, cheeses, meats, bread, jam, chocolate, and macarons.

Focusing mainly on French cuisine, you will get to try a lot of tasty treats. It’s a great way to sample some of France’s many delights in a short space of time.

You will definitely want to remember some of these places to come back to later. Your local guide will give you plenty of tips and tricks to find all of the best spots in this foodie hub in Paris.

2. The No Diet Club’s Night Food Tour of Montmartre – For Mega Foodie Fans!

• Where: Montmartre
• Includes: All food
• Price: € 62

The No Diet Club (or Le No Diet Club) runs food tours all over France and has exploded internationally. They aren’t into checklists or places with a mile-long queues. Just a guaranteed great foodie experience for those visiting Paris for a weekend .

This is one of the best food tours in Paris to eat like a local – albeit a local with no concept of salad. Self-described “original food porn experience” with a food-is-life kind of mantra. Wander through the lively Montmartre area, as well as Pigalle, seeing the city streets lit up with neon lights. It’s not just French food on offer; you will discover Peking duck, babka, charcuterie, and devour an ice cream or two. 

The best part is that the tour changes to fit the group and the season, so you could be eating at the latest trendy pop-up or a well-established favorite. There is no history lesson or practiced clichés, just some really great local food and a lot of fun with a like-minded group of food-a-holics.

3. The Secret Wine Door and Cheese Tasting – The Best Wine & Food Tour in Paris

• Where: Secret Wine Door, a 15-minute walk from the Eiffel Tower
• Duration: 2 Hours 
• Includes: Five artisan cheeses, French bread, and a mix of red and white wine.

Drink wine, eat cheese, need I say more? Of course, the French claim to have the best wine and cheese in the world. So it’s only right to see for yourself…

Just a 15-minute walk from the Eiffel Tower you will find a cozy shop full of French delights. The ‘secret wine door’ may not be easy to find, but that’s the point.

Learn great cheese and wine pairing tips, discover how to drink wine like a professional, and taste five different French wines and cheeses. There’s also an option for charcuterie if you can’t eat cheese.

All of the wines have been carefully selected from independent French winemakers from five different regions within France. The host, Erwan, has ditched the ‘classroom’ approach in favor of a more informal experience. But he isn’t without his accolades. 

As a Parisian-born wine lover, he is a certified wine expert from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) . Erwan offers an intimate introduction to the world of French wine and cheese.

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4. Learn How to Make Fresh Croissants – The Top French Cooking Class in Paris

• Where: The Maison Fleuret in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés
• Duration: 2.5 Hours 
• Includes: Cooking lesson, eat/take home your creations, drinks, recipe card

Grab an apron and a rolling pin in this hands-on Paris cooking class. Learn the techniques needed to create the perfect croissant and pain au chocolat.

This isn’t a cookery show. Here you get to try every step of baking the perfect butter croissant. 

Examine the traditional French recipe, roll the puff pastry, and take your creations out of the oven when they’re baked to perfection. You will also get to try your hand at one mystery confection before you leave.

Host Matthieu and his team will be there to guide you every step of the way, and ensure ‘guaranteed baking success’. The cooks at Maison Fleuret are proud to use their grandmother’s recipes in creating signature pastries and cakes. 

Located in a hidden courtyard in the foodie district of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, they pride themselves on traditional French dishes made with love and a keen eye for perfection.

5. Hidden Parisian Street Food & Street Art – Best Food Tour to Avoid the Crowds

• Where: Belleville District
• Duration: 2.5 Hours
• Includes: Food and drinks, local guide

The trendy area of Belleville is a side of Paris often unseen by tourists. If it’s not your first time in the city, why not try something a bit different? For one of the most interesting food tours in Paris, head to the Oriental district and uncover the best Tunisian restaurant in Paris. 

Next up is a stop at the local guide’s mums for a home-cooked treat. It doesn’t get any more local than that!

During the tour, you will take in the highlights of Chinatown and delight in some of the best Asian cuisines in Paris. Host Ali will help you to uncover some of his favorite haunts in the local area. An avid traveler and Parisian food critic, Ali has lived in Belleville his whole life and isn’t short of recommendations.

It’s not just the food that will have you falling in love with Belleville. You will also find hidden street art, hear fascinating stories about the city and finish with a scenic view over Paris from Buttes Chaumont Parc.

6. Sweet Gourmet Specialties Tasting Tour – The Sweetest Food Tour in Paris

• Where: Saint Germain des Pres Quarter or Le Marais
• Duration: 3 Hours
• Includes: Taste pastries, chocolates, and a variety of breads Walking tour (maximum 8 people), Local guide
• Price: €110.78

For those with a sweet tooth, Paris is a dream come true. And the Saint Germain des Pres Quarter is a paradise. Choose between Saint Germain or the Le Marais district on a 3-hour sweet gourmet speciality of Paris tour.

Spend an afternoon walking around the historic streets of the city , visiting fine pastry establishments and chocolate shops. Try gourmet delights like macarons, croissants, pain au chocolat, crepes, and other patisseries. 

Be lured in by the smell of freshly baked baguettes, sample the must-try specialities of Paris, and wander past some of the city’s most iconic monuments. You will also learn about French culinary traditions from your local guide and get the facts on France’s gastronomic scene.

7. Small Group Champagne Tour with 3-Course Lunch – The Best Day Trip Food Tour

• Where: The Champagne Region
• Duration: 11 Hours
• Includes: Hotel pickup and drop-off, Transportation by air-conditioned minivan, Driver/guide, Tour at 2 Champagne houses, Wine tastings, Lunch, Up to 6 glasses of Champagne, Bottled water
• Price: €299

Ok, so this one’s not actually in Paris, but it still deserves to be on the list as it’s only a quick day trip from the city. Travel to France’s Champagne region in an all-day food tour from the city center. 

Head to the Moët & Chandon Champagne houses, and enjoy a 3-course lunch at an authentic local restaurant. Visit vineyards, champagne cellars, and a local restaurant serving authentic cuisine from the French countryside.

Sip vintage champagnes while you learn all about the history of the region. Discover how Champagne is made including how the grapes are harvested, crushed, and transformed into this deliciously bubbly beverage.

Stroll along the Avenue de Champagne, then stop in the village where the monk that invented the iconic French drink once lived. It was the first region in the world to produce sparkling wine.

The views of the rolling hills and vineyards in the region help you to discover a completely different side of France. Forget the traffic and busy streets of Paris as you relax in the countryside sipping fine sparkling wines.

‘I drink Champagne when I win, to celebrate… and I drink Champagne when I lose, to console myself.’ – Napoleon Bonaparte

The local guides will wow you with their knowledge of this iconic French drink, play fun games, and take care of every detail of the day. Transfers from your hotel in Paris to the Champagne region and back are included in the price.

Look, I know Paris is kinda smelly and overrated in a lot of ways. But one thing that lives up to its reputation is the food . There’s just so much to see and do in Paris, make sure France’s gastronomy is at the top of your to-do list with these top food tours in Paris.

You simply can’t miss some of these delicious treats. Whether it’s your first time in Paris or your 50th, you are sure to find something new with this diverse culinary collection.

I know French cuisine sounds like a lot of garlic, snails, and frogs. Well, it is.

Paris has an eclectic mix of the very best French food and international cuisine. It’s one of those sensational moments in your life when you look back and thank yourself that you did.

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7 incredible day excursions from Paris that are definitely worth the trip

Want to venture outside of paris here are some amazing places to check out.

With the 2024 Olympics putting Paris in the global spotlight , millions of visitors are flocking to the City of Light. Known for its iconic landmarks and world-class cuisine, Paris is undoubtedly a dream destination. But what if you find yourself with a few extra days in Paris with nothing to do? Luckily, there are several hidden gems just a short trip from the Paris city center, many of which are less than an hour away. These day trips from Paris offer a refreshing escape from the hustle and bustle of the capital city.

1. Loire Valley

• Distance from Paris: 132 miles, 2-hour and 10-minute drive

The Loire Valley, located in the middle stretch of the Loire River in central France, is a breathtaking region known for its historic châteaux and world-famous vineyards. As one of the most celebrated wine regions globally, the Loire Valley encompasses several French wine regions . Visitors can indulge in wine tastings at prestigious estates like Château de Chambord and Château de Chenonceau.

Beyond the vineyards, the Loire Valley is a hotspot for history and architecture. Explore the beauty of the châteaux, take a leisurely bike ride through the countryside, or visit the charming town of Amboise, where Leonardo da Vinci spent his final years.

• Distance from Paris: 115 miles, 2-hour and 10-minute drive

Situated on the banks of the Loire is the Royal City of Blois. For 100 years, this city was the favored stronghold of the French kings, with its Château de Blois serving as the royal residence from the establishment of Louis XII’s court in 1498 until Henry IV moved it to Paris in 1598. Today, visitors can explore the grandeur of the château, taking in its unique blend of Gothic, Renaissance, and Classical architecture.

Blois is a walkable city rich in history and culture. A leisurely stroll through its old quarter reveals a treasure trove of ancient townhomes, particularly on charming streets like rue Pierre de Blois. The Maison de la Magie, dedicated to the famous magician Robert-Houdin, offers a whimsical experience with its fascinating displays and live magic shows.

3. Deauville

• Distance from Paris: 132 miles, 2-hour and 15-minute drive

Deauville, the closest seaside resort to Paris, is one of France’s most notable coastal retreats and is often referred to as the Parisian Riviera. Situated in the Côte Fleurie (Flowery Coast) region, Deauville is a favorite getaway for the French upper class and is known for its elegant seaside houses and luxurious ambiance.

This charming town boasts high-end boutiques, gourmet restaurants, and the famous Deauville Casino. Horse racing enthusiasts can enjoy the Deauville-La Touques Racecourse, while film buffs might time their visit to line up with the Deauville American Film Festival.

4. Fontainebleau

• Distance from Paris: 43 miles, 1-hour drive

Fontainebleau is a charming town just an hour from Paris and is famed for its sprawling and picturesque forest, making it a popular weekend retreat for Parisians seeking nature and tranquility. The Forest of Fontainebleau offers an extensive network of hiking and cycling trails, rock climbing spots , and serene picnic areas.

At the heart of the town sits the historic Château de Fontainebleau, a former royal residence that has housed French monarchs from François I to Napoleon III. Visitors can tour the château, exploring the opulent rooms, incredible galleries, and beautifully landscaped gardens, gaining insights into centuries of French history and art. The town itself boasts charming streets lined with cafes, boutiques, and markets, perfect for a laid-back day trip from Paris.

• Distance from Paris: 155 miles, 2-hour and 34-minute drive

When it comes to day trips from Paris, you can’t skip out on Caen. The city of Caen is steeped in history and is known for its impressive buildings from the reign of William the Conqueror, who is buried there. A visit to Caen offers a glimpse into medieval history with landmarks such as the majestic Château de Caen and the Romanesque Abbaye aux Hommes, both commissioned by William himself. Beyond its medieval allure, Caen holds a significant place in World War II history, attracting visitors eager to explore its pivotal role during the Normandy invasion.

6. Versailles

• Distance from Paris: 18 miles, 38-minute drive

Just a 40-minute drive from Paris, Versailles makes an excellent day trip destination. This affluent suburb is known for its historic significance, having been the site of pivotal treaties, such as the Treaty of Paris, which ended the American Revolution, and the Treaty of Versailles, which concluded World War I. In this town, you can explore several charming cafes and shops as well as the indoor-outdoor Versailles Market, where you can sample a wide variety of baked goods and produce from local sellers.

The biggest attraction in Versailles is the Palace of Versailles, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most magnificent places in the world. Travelers can marvel at the lavish Hall of Mirrors, the beautiful State Apartments, and the extensive Gardens of Versailles, which feature stunning fountains, sculptures, and manicured lawns.

• Distance from Paris: 289 miles, 4-hour and 32-minute drive

Lyon is France’s third-largest city and has a dynamic atmosphere fueled by its status as the country’s second-largest student city, home to nearly 200,000 university students. Given its distance from Paris, approximately a 4.5-hour drive, Lyon is best explored over a few days to fully appreciate everything it has to offer. For a luxurious stay, consider the grand InterContinental Lyon – Hotel Dieu, the elegant Cour des Loges, or the stylish Hotel Le Royal Lyon.

While in Lyon, immerse yourself in the charm of Vieux Lyon, a UNESCO World Heritage site, with its stunning architecture and narrow cobblestone streets. Don’t miss the Basilica of Notre Dame de Fourviére, which offers amazing panoramic views of the city. Food lovers will enjoy Lyon’s gastronomic scene, with its traditional bouchons and famed Les Halles de Lyon Bocuse market.

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Like the biggest mountain on Earth, if you measure Mauna Kea from its base under the ocean to its summit at 13,803 feet above sea level. Like Hi'ilawe Falls, a waterfall with a main drop some 1,200 feet in height. Like miles of perfectly pristine beaches completely devoid of human development.

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Situated about 30 miles off the coast of Cape Cod, Nantucket, Massachusetts, is the embodiment of New England charm. This cozy beach town features cobblestone streets, historic cottages, and a laid-back coastal vibe. Additionally, Nantucket features some of the most pristine beaches on the East Coast, such as Madaket Beach and Ladies Beach. When you’re not lounging on the beach, you can stroll through the quaint town center, lined with boutiques, galleries, and restaurants featuring seafood delicacies such as the world-famous lobster roll. Outdoor enthusiasts can take part in activities like biking along the island’s scenic trails or embarking on a whale-watching excursion. 2. Maui, Hawaii

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The Ultimate Guide to Last-Minute Olympic Travel to Paris

Beatrice Je

As excitement grows for the 2024 Paris Summer Olympics, fans worldwide eagerly await the pick of athletic excellence. An article by Condé Nast Traveler has revealed that despite the approaching date of the 2024 Paris Summer Olympics, last-minute travel remains a viable option for fans. If you’re interested in attending, there are still opportunities to secure tickets and experience the excitement firsthand.

Data revealed that there has been a surge in last minute booking for the Olympics. “It’s fantastic news for people who haven’t given up on their dream of going for Olympic Gold in Paris this summer,” says Gilbert Ott, a spokesperson for point.me.

 If you’re thinking of an impromptu trip, here are some effective approaches to improve your chances of securing travel arrangements. The initial ticket sale, which previously relied on a lottery system and timeslots, has now transitioned to a straightforward first-come, first-served approach.

You can check real-time availability directly on the official Paris 2024 website. Despite some expensive tickets, there are still affordable options. For instance, nearly 20,000 tickets were made available at a reasonable price of €24, with the chance to watch football matches.

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Another effective strategy is leveraging points and miles for flights. Airlines often release additional award seats as the departure date approaches, allowing savvy travelers to secure these seats. Additionally, consider flying into nearby cities such as Brussels or Amsterdam and then taking a train to Paris is a practical and often more affordable alternative.

 When it comes to accommodation in Paris during the Olympics, last-minute bookings are still feasible. Platforms like Booking.com and Airbnb have experienced increased searches. With persistence and flexibility, travelers can discover suitable places to stay.

In conclusion, the dream of attending the Paris Olympics this summer remains within reach. With strategic planning and flexibility, securing spots for this global event is feasible. If you’re considering a trip to the Olympics, seize the opportunity now.

Planning a trip to Paris ? Get ready !

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Paris, the Olympics and the reinvention of a city

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I’m now a French citizen, after two decades living in Paris, so I could vote in the recent parliamentary elections. So could my Paris-born daughter, recently turned 18. The morning of the first round, we walked together down our boulevard, past banners heralding the coming Olympic Games. At her old primary school, our local ballot station, we queued among the mostly white, well-off people who inhabit the city centre. It was a momentous election: the French far right had its best shot at gaining power since the Vichy regime collapsed in 1944.

Most of 20th-century Parisian history is in that little school. On the outside wall is a plaque remembering Jewish pupils murdered in the second world war. At the foot of the main staircase is a memorial to former pupils who fell in the first world war. The playground, with its hopscotch court, was where my children tried to make sense of the terrorist attacks of November 2015, whose epicentre was the Bataclan concert hall around the corner. 

This summer, Paris is piling up new history. The far-right Rassemblement National (RN) — which is, among other things, an anti-Paris party — finished third in last Sunday’s elections, and has been staved off for now. The Olympics start on July 26 with a spectacular opening ceremony along the Seine, unless it is truncated because of fears of terrorism. 

But the Games merely mark the kick-off of a much vaster Parisian project. The project called “Grand Paris”, which aims to knit together the city and its suburbs for the first time ever, is just starting to be rolled out now, with several new suburban metro stations opening for the Olympics. In the next few years, Grand Paris could bring an even bigger urban transformation than the one wrought by Baron Haussmann from the 1850s.  

Paris has always felt like an island inside France: a global city in a historically agricultural country, a home to immigrants and to elite families who have had books on the wall for centuries. The French far right traditionally distrusts the capital. The movement’s intellectual father, Charles Maurras, jailed as a collaborator in 1945, complained after his first visit to Paris about “a multitude of foreign signs, full of those names starting with K, W and Z that our printers spiritually call Jewish letters”. 

The suburbs, the banlieues, mushroomed after the war, but were always severed from the city. Paris used to be protected by a medieval city wall. Since the 1970s the job has been done by the Périphérique ring road. Parisians rarely venture beyond the Périph into the banlieues, in part because transport connections are bad. Most suburbs were built in a rush, with too few train lines for their burgeoning populations of oppressed commuters.

The transit project for Grand Paris has nothing to do with the Olympics, except that the Games set a deadline for delivering phase one. The project originated with Nicolas Sarkozy. When he became president in 2007, he wanted to reinvent Paris, as French rulers do. Whereas private developers shaped London and New York, Paris is the creation of centuries of state planning.  

Sarkozy thought Paris should be a global metropolis that competed with its anglosaxon rivals. But how? The city of 2mn people inside the Périphérique lacked critical mass. There was no other choice: the nearly 10mn banlieusards — along with all the suburban companies and universities and research institutes — would have to be brought in from the cold, properly connected not only to Paris but to each other. A century or so after the first plan for “Grand Paris” was written in 1913, and then almost instantly kiboshed by the Great War, the project was finally begun.

Sarkozy put the former top civil servant and business executive Christian Blanc in charge. In October 2008, Blanc visited him in the Élysée Palace to elaborate the plans. But the global financial crisis had struck, Sarkozy’s phone kept ringing, and there was no chance to talk. Finally, Sarkozy asked, “What are you doing this weekend?”

Blanc offered to pop by for a chat.

Sarkozy asked, “Could you come along to China?” Heads of government were holding crisis management talks in Beijing. Sarkozy explained, “On the flight there, I’ll be monopolised by preparations for the meeting, but we can talk on the way back.” And so, wrote Blanc later, “Somewhere over the steppes of central Asia, we spent ten or so hours working on the future of Grand Paris.”

Paris this century has become even more of an elite island. Its beaux quartiers — the beautiful central neighbourhoods near the river — house the power brokers of state, business and culture, who have almost unplugged themselves from the rest of France. The demographer Jérôme Fourquet quantifies their conquest of the city: the proportion of executives and workers in intellectual professions in Paris’s working population jumped from 25 per cent in 1982 to 46 per cent by 2013. The self-satisfaction of the French exam-passing elite is embodied by Emmanuel Macron, the former banker with his tailored suits, soft face and overeducated diction in which he gives the country’s underlings their orders.

From 1789, French revolutions started in Paris. But the gilets jaunes in 2018 launched a revolution against Paris. Saturday after Saturday, the “yellow vests” marched on the city, sacking its luxury stores and other symbols of Parisian wealth. The RN later captured much of this anti-elitist energy.  

Polls before Sunday predicted it would become the largest party in parliament, possibly with a majority. Its failure to do so follows a French pattern. Voters here tend to talk radical but act conservative. Their revolutionary language is often best understood as an aesthetic pose — a bow to French tradition. Many people who vote for extreme parties, or say they will, quietly want a prissy graduate of the École Nationale d’Administration to win. They know that’s what always happens. Then they can spend five years railing against him.

One city remains almost immune to the RN. Last Sunday the party won no seats in Paris or its inner suburbs. Bourgeois western Paris mostly stuck with Macron, while the eastern hipster and working-class arrondissements voted for leftwing or green parties. Many poorer quartiers that backed the revolutionary Paris Commune in 1871 now vote far-left. The RN won seats only on the outermost rural edges of Greater Paris.

That is partly because it’s an anti-Paris party. Just as the vote for Brexit allowed provincial England to take revenge on rich, cosmopolitan London, the RN exerts the same appeal in France. It opposes the multicultural coexistence (with pockets of segregation) that characterises the EU’s biggest city. The RN depicts the banlieues as “Islamist” hellholes where ordinary (meaning white) French people can’t safely go outside. In a 12mn-person region, there’s always some horrific crime that the party can seize on as “proof”. 

I got to know the suburbs over a decade of ferrying my kids there for their weekend football matches. I’ve never seen a banlieue that consists entirely of one ethnic group. Nor have I ever visited one where I’ve felt personally threatened. And for all the RN’s panic-mongering, and reports by Jews of rising antisemitism, the daily living together largely continues. 

The banlieues only ever make the news through riots or crimes, but that belies the drab tranquillity of most of these places. Over time, contrary to the RN’s narrative, the banlieues have become safer. The Paris region’s murder rate fell by nearly three-quarters from 1994 to 2022, to 1.3 homicides per 100,000 people, about the same rate as London’s.  

For a sense of the banlieues’ demographic variety, follow the route of the suburban RER train from Charles de Gaulle airport to Paris. It passes through Aulnay-sous-Bois, hometown of Aya Nakamura, stage name of the French-Malian singer who might sing at the Olympic opening ceremony — a possibility that has prompted racist attacks against her on social media. Two stops later comes Drancy, where Jordan Bardella, 28-year-old president of the RN, grew up with his single mother. Bardella portrays his upbringing as rough, but in fact his businessman father paid for private schools. The train then chugs into northern Paris, past the home neighbourhood of beloved French judoka Teddy Riner, who came with his parents from the French Caribbean. Other French sporting heroes such as footballer Kylian Mbappé and basketball genius Victor Wembanyama are mixed-race products of the banlieues: Mbappé’s origins are in Cameroon and Algeria, while Wembanyama’s father is of Congolese origin and his mother is white French. 

The RN seems to view non-white banlieusards as illegitimate. It plans to stop granting automatic citizenship to people born to foreign parents in France, implying that anyone who previously became French that way isn’t truly French. People with double nationality apparently don’t count as fully French either, because the RN would ban them from “strategic” posts. And the party’s policy of “national preference”, giving French citizens first rights to welfare and housing, casts non-French people as second-class inhabitants. The RN seems to dream of turning the multicultural omelette that is Greater Paris back into eggs.

The far left — part of the leftist bloc that’s now the largest grouping in the Assemblée Nationale — has its own beefs with Paris. It abhors the luxury city that has emerged under Macron. One of his first presidential acts was to scrap the wealth tax, earning himself the enduring moniker, “ le président des riches ” . Today, three of Europe’s six largest corporations by market value are French luxury groups headquartered in Greater Paris. The biggest, LVMH, is the Games’ main local sponsor.

The left wants to raise taxes on France’s rich — almost all of whom live in Paris. Brexit spurred an influx of international bankers. They don’t even need to learn French now — central Paris is becoming a bilingual business city almost like Amsterdam — and their kids can go to English-language schools. When my sons started secondary school five years ago, and we looked for a native-English stream, there were only two in our part of town. Now they are opening everywhere.

So too are overpriced restaurants and hotels. This plutocratisation upsets the far left, even though about a quarter of Parisians live in social housing — almost twice as many as at the start of the century. Paris’s Socialist mayor, Anne Hidalgo, aims to raise the proportion further.  

Now, on top of Paris’s political stress comes Olympic stress. Public-service posters in the metro warn riders to “Anticipate the Games” as if they were a kind of pandemic. Parisians obsessively google which roads will be closed. People living near the Seine fear being subjected to Berlin Wall-style imprisonment for the days around the ceremony, unable to receive guests or walk to the supermarket without special passes. The Seine itself is meant to host the open-air swimming events, but may not be clean enough. And Europe’s densest city must somehow accommodate millions of Olympic visitors.

Much of Paris is already blocked off, creating epic traffic jams. Everyone worries about terrorism — the city’s modern trauma. The opening ceremony, on the river through central Paris, with the world watching, provides the most alluring terrorist target imaginable. And will Haussmann’s balconies collapse that evening under the weight of onlookers? 

Where is the joy in all this? “The joy will come,” promises deputy mayor Emmanuel Grégoire. But you can’t cheer Parisians by telling them the Olympics will make their city the centre of the world. Paris already thinks it is the centre of the world. This isn’t Barcelona, Atlanta or Athens. Paris doesn’t need the Games.

The banlieues arguably do, though. The so-called Paris Olympics are better understood as the Suburban Games. Their epicentre is a few minutes north of the city, in Seine-Saint-Denis, arrival point for many immigrants of African origin. It’s mainland France’s poorest département , where the left holds all 12 parliamentary seats. Here is the Stade de France, the Olympic stadium and, just across a walkway, the new Aquatics Centre. A few hundred metres away is the Olympic Village, and the brand new local metro station that by 2030 is meant to grow into the region’s chief junction: Saint-Denis-Pleyel. 

On June 24 Macron opened the extension of the line 14 metro, which now runs from Orly airport south of the city up to the Olympic quarter. People living around Pleyel suddenly find themselves 15 minutes from central Paris. The new stations are among the first of 68 — all in the suburbs — due to open by the early 2030s. New driverless metro trains will connect banlieue to banlieue, generally skipping Paris. The region will also add dozens of bike, bus and suburban train stations. Try to imagine all that in London or New York.  

The project aims to give Paris multiple centres, instead of just the one. Once most suburbanites no longer need cars, the city can finally excise the Périph. The ring road is projected to lose several of its lanes, shrinking into an urban boulevard, which will be lined with trees and (in the quintessential Parisian touch) cafés.  

The Grand Paris Express project is currently priced at about €42bn, little over half what the UK is paying for a high-speed rail line that will eventually shorten the Birmingham-London journey by 32 minutes. The authorities in Greater Paris hope to build so many homes on and around the new stations — the hubs of future neighbourhoods — that regional house prices won’t rise. The French state, with its almost Chinese-style powers, has a better record of building infrastructure than its anglosaxon rivals .

A while ago, I went to visit the Olympic Village. It was a beautiful summer’s morning, which made it easy to feel optimistic, and I admit I was blown away. There were several blocks of airy buildings, each of 10 storeys or so, in a bend of the Seine, centred around the Cité du Cinéma, a 1930s Art Deco power station remodelled for filmmaking. Once the athletes leave, their dwellings will become a mix of social and market-priced housing, offices, shops, cafés and green spaces. Nearby, I saw schools being built for still unborn residents.

It all gave me hope for Paris. Admittedly, the Olympic Village is a showpiece. Much of what comes afterwards won’t look as nice. But the village still demonstrates how good affordable housing can be, now that city planners have learnt from the blunders of the postwar decades. 

The architecture of the banlieues has improved. The authorities have dynamited some monstrous 1960s tower blocks (though many former residents were devastated to lose their happy family memories). In the neighbourhoods around the village, I saw low-rise flats with greenery, kids playing rugby, and a bustling street market in between cycle lanes. 

Dominique Perrault, the Olympic Village’s chief urbanist, is so Parisian that he wears a perfectly wound scarf even in midsummer. He thinks the coming transformation wrought by transport will exceed Haussmann’s. “He turned a small city into a beautiful big city. We will soon have a whole new mental map of the city.” 

I asked whether, one day, people living in Seine-Saint-Denis would say they live “in Paris”. “No,” said Perrault, “I think they will say, ‘Grand Paris’. The reference for Paris [the city inside the Périphérique] is Haussmann.” 

Most Parisians just hope the Olympics will pass by without disaster, as the parliamentary elections did. Perhaps this Parisian epoch, in hindsight, will resemble Haussmann’s era. Almost all the news stories of his day are now forgotten. What survives is the city he created. 

Simon Kuper is an FT columnist and author of ‘Impossible City: Paris in the Twenty-First Century’ (Profile)

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