apo whang od tour

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For Private /Exclusive tour may choose your preferred dates.

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For Joiners : Friday/Saturday /Sunday /Holidays

(Rates vary depending on the number of persons in a group}.

RESERVATION / BOOKING PROCEDURES:

• May require Initial Payment to secure booking deductible from the total package rate then the remaining balancewill be collected upon meet-up on the day of travel.
• Acknowledgment Receipt will be sent upon the Receipt of your initial deposit including other further tour details.
• Payment method will be sent upon request with payment options at your convenience.

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Duration: 2 Days 1 Nights Tour Package 3 Days 2 Nights Tour Package

INQUIRE NOW FOR PACKAGE RATE & COMPLETE TOUR DETAILS!

———————————————————

PACKAGE INCLUSIONS:

• Meet Apo Whang-Od-a living legend of Kalinga culture!
• Room Accommodation
• Round trip AC Van Transfers
• (Manila-Kalinga-Manila)
• (Diesel, Toll fees, Parking fees)
• Banaue-Kalinga Tour
• Courtesy rice c/o accommodation
• Courtesy brewed Kalinga coffee
• Permit fees
• Side trip at Banaue Rice Terraces
• Driver’s Fee, meals & lodging

* Food/ personal or optional activities & others not specified in the inclusions are at participants account. * Sample Itinerary is ready upon request.

ADVENTURE HIGHLIGHTS:

• People from around the world travel just to get a unique method of hand-tap tattooing from the “The Oldest Mambabatok”

Natural Wonder of Banaue Rice Terraces

• Culture Enrichment
• Villages Hopping
• Souvenir hunting

Apo Whang-Od’s Village

Witness & experience whang-od’s actual performance.

• Taste & drink freshly-brewed Kalinga Coffee
• Chasing /Trek to Palan-Ah Falls
• The Artist Village

Adventure Highlights:

Apo Whang-Od

Chasing -Trek to Palan-Ah Falls

• Mt. Kabunian (1,789+) | Into Bakun’s Sacred Mountain Peak
• Mt. Igcoron (600MASL) | Scaling Valderrama’s Razor Back Mountain
• Aw-Asen Falls, Sigay | Discovering Ilocos Sur’s Best Kept Secret
• Agas-Agas Bridge | Crossing the Country’s Tallest Bridge
• Dinagat Islands: Into the Mystical Island Province of Caraga Region

TRANSIT PINAS

Philippine Adventures and Beyond

Buscalan Travel Guide 2023 | Revisiting Apo Whang-od

(Updated April 15, 2023)

Buscalan Village, Tinglayan, Kalinga: The story of Apo Whang-od is not just about her traditional tattooing techniques, but also about her rich cultural heritage and the preservation of Kalinga culture.

In this adventure, I revisited the Buscalan Tattoo Village to visit Apo Whang-od once again and see how much the village has changed since my last visit in 2017.

Table of Contents

Vogue Philippines: Next of Skin

Recently, Apo Whang-od was featured on the cover of Vogue Philippines which gained a lot of traction online as one of the oldest people featured in the magazine.  Moreover, this would be a significant recognition of her contribution to Filipino culture and a celebration of her inspiring story.

Nonetheless, her inspiring journey and cultural significance make her a worthy subject for any publication looking to celebrate the beauty of Philippine culture.

But we are now indelibly inked and linked to the last Philippine tribe that has managed to hold on to its tattooing heritage amid colonial erasure in the rest of the archipelago. And we carry these markings with us forward into the world, allowing ourselves the gifts of guidance, strength, and protection that we didn’t realize we needed. – Audrey Carpio, Vogue Philippines

Tattoo Guide

Apo Whang-od is a traditional Kalinga tattoo artist, and getting a tattoo from her is a unique experience. Make sure to respect her and her culture by following the proper etiquette when getting a tattoo. You can also get a tattoo from her grandniece, Grace Palicas, who is also a skilled tattoo artist.

It’s worth noting that the cost of the tattoo may vary depending on its design, size, and complexity. Additionally, other factors such as the season and demand may also affect the pricing.

You may contact Ate Emily Oggay, the tattoo artist who added the arrow tattoos on my left arm.

• For the 8 arrowheads I added, it costs 600php for the 15-minute session.

• For the Sun and Moon, it costs 3000php

• For the Fern Arm Band (Nilawhat), it costs 3600php

• The Pomelo thorn and handle called “Pambatok” is now required and costs 200php.

• Apo Whang-od’s signature three dots now cost 300php.

Overall, visiting Apo Whang Od in Buscalan is a unique and unforgettable experience. Just remember to be respectful, follow the local customs, and enjoy the beautiful scenery and culture of the Kalinga people.

How to Get There

If you’re planning to visit Apo Whang-od in Buscalan in 2023, here’s a travel guide to help you prepare for your trip:

• The nearest major airport to Buscalan is Tuguegarao International Airport, which is around 138 kilometers away. From there, you can take a bus or a van to Bontoc, then alight at Buscalan Saddle Point where you can hire a motorcycle to the Buscalan jump-off point.

• Alternatively, take a bus or van to Tabuk City, Kalinga then transfer to another one going to Bontoc, Mountain Province, then alight at Saddle Point.
• At the jump-off point, register and hire a guide for 500php/group per day for multiday visits, or 1000php for day tours

Where to Stay

• There are several homestays in Buscalan where you can stay. You can also choose to camp if you prefer. Book your accommodation in advance, especially if you’re visiting during peak season.

• We stayed at Tatay Gaspar’s Homestay for 400php a night and shared bathroom which also comes with free unli coffee. This is also the only homestay with Piso WiFi and the nearest to the rice terraces.

• What to bring: The weather in Buscalan can be unpredictable, so make sure to bring warm clothing and rain gear. You’ll also need comfortable hiking shoes, as the trek to Buscalan can be challenging. Bring cash, as there are no ATMs in Buscalan.

• Respect the community: Buscalan is a small community, so it’s important to be respectful of the locals and their culture. Ask for permission before taking photos of people, and don’t litter or damage any property.
• There are two trails to choose from:

• Old Trail which is mostly flat then gradually gets steep as you get closer to the village. Trail Length +/- 2 kilometers, 139m elevation gain

• New Trail, this trail goes all the way down to the river then a steep assault to the village. 1.35 kilometers trail length, 170m elevation gain

• Plan your itinerary: Buscalan is a small village, but there are other nearby attractions that you can visit, such as the Kalinga Museum and the Tinglayan Rice Terraces. Plan your itinerary in advance to make the most of your trip.

• With this trip, I joined an organized tour by PH Explore Happiness group together with this happy bunch. Meals prepared by Sir Intoy were top-notch!

• Raine Evngelista – Facebook Page
• Telegram: 0909 9282200
• 𝑺𝑴𝑨𝑹𝑻 : 0909 9282200
• Viber: Paul Carandang 09099282200

Merrell Speed Eco

In this quick hike up to the village of Buscalan, I used the new Merrell Speed Eco shoes. The Merrell Speed Eco is one of the most sustainable shoes to date. Also, it is designed for trail running and other light outdoor activities.

It is comfortable to use right out of the box, with a good amount of cushioning and support. The shoes are also designed with breathable mesh uppers that help keep feet cool and dry during activity.

Did we say that it is also waterproof? Yes, it definitely is!

• The People of the Mist: Daring the Long Road to Buscalan
• Tradition of the Buscalan Tattoo | The People of the Mist
• Tips on Getting Your First Tattoo in Buscalan, Kalinga
• A Day in the Life of Butbut Kalinga Tribe | The People of the Mist
• Apayao | Into the Maze-like Dupag Rock Formation of Marag Valley

Buscalan Travel Guide 2023 | Revisiting Apo Whang-od Updated April 15, 2023

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• ← Against All Odds | Mt. Guiting-Guiting (2,058+) Travel Guide 2023
• Mt. Manmanoc, Abra (2,024+) | Deep into the Tingguian’s Stronghold →

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BUSCALAN: 3-Day Itinerary, Budget + Travel Guide To Visit Apo Whang Od

Buscalan at a glance.

Apo Whang Od is probably one of the most revered Filipinas of our generation. She is a living national treasure being hailed as the oldest “ Mambabatok ” of the native tribe of Butbut in Buscalan Village, Kalinga. Mambabatok refers to the people who practice the art of traditional tattoo making called Batok which is popular among the tribal warriors of the Cordillera region. It uses the thorn of a pomelo plant as the needle and powdered charcoal mixed with water as the ink or paint. The process starts by stenciling the design with charcoal ink. Then using the thorn attached to a bamboo handle, the ink will be etched to the skin by hitting it gently with another bamboo/wood stick. The tattoo designs symbolize many things. For the Butbut tribe, they signify greatness, bravery, beauty, protection, or affluence. In the old times, these tattoos indicated a warrior’s worth in battle or a document of a traveler’s exploits or one’s political and religious affiliation.

Most of the Mambabatok were men and rarely women. During the 21st century, only a handful of these Mambabatok remains and one of them is Apo Whang Od who also became the face of this tradition. Words about her work spread like wildfire among the traveling community, attracting travelers even from outside the country. It was doubled when social media came into play. It put Kalinga into the map in an instant, bringing in a staggering number of visitors to Buscalan Village day after day. For a traveler such as I who love to discover and experience culture, going to Buscalan Village and meeting Apo Whang Od is an ultimate goal. Getting a tattoo is a treat. What’s even better is getting to know the lovely tribe of Butbut and to witness their lifestyle and how they evolve throughout the times.

My Buscalan Travel Story

Going to Buscalan Village is easier now than in the previous years although the journey still takes a painstaking 15-18 hours from Manila. The popular route is via Tabuk but I chose the route I’m more familiar with which is via Bontoc. I made my way to Banaue first via Coda Lines. I haven’t really seen much of Banaue during my first visit to Ifugao because I opted for the magnificence of Batad so I thought of giving it at least a few hours instead of riding the bus all the way to Bontoc. I headed to one of the town’s viewing areas via a tricycle and was blessed to witness a golden sunrise over the vast terraces of rice paddies. The warmth of the sun felt so good against my skin as it chased the chill of the morning breeze away.

After kick-starting my tour perfectly with a view of the famed Banaue Rice Terraces and a cup of coffee in my hand, I headed to see Bontoc. It was 8 AM when I left in a van along with the other passengers. I would have loved to doze off a bit but the view along the way was just otherworldly. The Cordillera mountains have always been a magnificent sight. It looked formidable and filled with the unknown but something in me wants to fully comprehend its mystery. Almost two hours into the journey and the marvelous terraces of Bay-yo came into view. Soon after, we reached Bontoc.

There were buses ready to depart for Tabuk that will pass by the diversion road going to Buscalan but I settled for the jeepney that will take me directly to the village instead. It was to depart at 2:30 PM. A little bit late but I didn’t have any worries since I will be with the company of Buscalan villagers. I took the time I had to explore Bontoc from the town’s museum to the nearby viewing areas. I also had a sumptuous lunch and coffee at Cable Cafe and Restaurant. When it was about time to go, I simply walked my way back to the jeepney terminal.

I sat among the eager villagers inside the jeep and looked at them with delight as we waited to depart. I have always admired the features of the Cordillera people. Chinky eyes, high-bridged nose, red cheeks over perfectly tanned skin, and shiny jet black hair. What could have been more beautiful? It was also amusing to see they were not so far behind with technology. Some of the young ones even have smartphones with them but I wondered what they used it for since their village has a weak coverage even for simple texts and calls which is why it was hard for me to get a hold of a local guide or a host for my visit. I just set the thought aside and continued to observe.

We finally got moving towards Buscalan at 2:45 PM. I fell asleep during the first 30 minutes of the ride out of exhaustion. I woke up to the sun shining brightly at my face. Adjusting to the light, my eyes caught a glimpse of a scenic view of the valleys below. The most captivating was the village of Sadanga. It looked so surreal, like an Elven paradise covered in trees surrounded by vast plains of greens. While I was in the midst of my reverie, a woman approached me. She asked whether I already have a guide and a homestay. I told her I didn’t and she gladly offered her home and services which I didn’t hesitate to accept. Suddenly, I was in the middle of a conversation, the villagers slowly warmed up to me.

We stopped by a market to allow the villagers to do last-minute shopping. The ride then went on until we reached another village near the diversion road to Buscalan. We waited for about 15 minutes before continuing the journey. Going to Buscalan was an uphill ride along a narrow concrete road. It has lots of blind curves and dangerous turns but the jeep didn’t seem to have any difficulty navigating through. We reached the jump-off to Buscalan Village at 5 PM. The tourism office was already closed but local guides still awaited for visitors to arrive. My host said she will go ahead to prepare dinner for me and left me in the care of her friend.

From the jump-off point, going to the village requires a 1-hr trek. Trekking would start off with a descent that will stretch to about 500 meters. The descent is not very steep and barely straightforward. It will be a little difficult and slippery during rains but it should be manageable even for newbies. We quickly covered the descent and reached the base just after 10 minutes. We then passed by a bridge and traced the path leading to where the ascent to the village would start. I heard a gushing of the waterfall nearby. It was so soothing. Slowly, we ascended the concrete stairs with my guide leading the way.

The ascent was arduous for me that I lost my balance for a moment and was gasping for air 10 minutes into it. I was carrying my 30L backpack. My throat was dry and I was dead thirsty but my water bottle was empty. My guide quickly refilled it with spring water. I kind of hesitated because I have a sensitive stomach. I worried about upsetting my tummy but I was more concerned about me passing out so I took a sip just enough to quench my thirst. When I recovered, we continued the trek up the concrete stairs until we reached the village. We stopped by at the registration point to rest a bit. There, I also filled out my info on a form and paid the fees. We continued the trek to my homestay after and reached it just before sunset.

The night was perfectly quiet. I had a cool, refreshing bath then a filling dinner before heading to bed. I only paid P300/night for my homestay which also includes unlimited coffee and rice. Quite a bargain, huh. I had a clean and spacious room. My foam bed was on the floor but it had clean sheets, three pillows, and a warm comforter. I stayed out on the terrace for a bit to gaze at the starlit skies. I had a whole tumbler of freshly brewed Kalinga coffee made for me by my host. In just a few hours of my stay, I fell deeply in love with Buscalan that it wasn’t really hard to decide to stay for one more night. I didn’t wanna leave in a hurry and as much as I can, I wanted to make the most out of my time in the village.

The following day, I had boiled eggs, corned beef, and rice for breakfast. They went perfectly without saying with my Kalinga coffee. At exactly 9 PM, my guide picked me up and we went to see Apo Whang Od. We arrived at her empty house which was made of concrete with a design typical to most Filipinos. I always thought they still live in their native huts (baluy) but sadly, just like in Batad, they no longer do. More than adapting to the demands of the modern world, sustainability was the major consideration since cogon grass and the other materials used to build the native huts have been scarce in the recent years. Although, it made me glad to see that most of the houses in the village retained the old design.

It felt nerve-wracking just to sit and wait for Apo Whang Od to show up. I didn’t know where the nerve was coming from. Could it be from finally meeting the living legend or from getting a batok tattoo for the first time. I couldn’t seem to put my hands on it but all I knew was when she finally showed up, I was awestruck. Her demeanor reminded me somehow of my old and unmarried female dean in college. Cold and somehow grumpy. She didn’t seem so amused of the handful of people waiting for her. We observed her in silence as she prepared her stuff. She didn’t say a word and that scared me even more. When she finally gestured that she was ready to start tattooing, my heart jumped to my throat and I almost didn’t budge from where I stood.

I was the first to get tattooed by Apo Whang Od that day. I first handed her my gift, a loaf of bread that she accepted gracefully. She then went to ask where I wanna put the tattoo. I handed her my right arm and pointed at my forearm just an inch away from my wrist. She quickly did a stencil of her signature, a 3-dot tattoo. She doesn’t work on complicated designs anymore and has left the task to the young women of the village. She quickly started working on my tattoo. I noticed a quick shift in the atmosphere. Apo Whang Od suddenly became cheerful. She spoke with enthusiasm with the other villagers around and was even laughing heartily. I didn’t understand what they were saying but seeing how she was just happy made me relax a bit. She finished working on my tattoo in an instant and we posed for a photo together. I stayed a bit to admire her some more. When the crowd became overwhelming, I left and went back to my homestay.

An hour after I got a tattoo from Apo Whang Od, I had another tattoo from a young girl who was my host’s daughter. I chose the fern to put on my forearm just beside the first batok tattoo I got earlier. The process with this other tattoo didn’t go smoothly. It took longer than expected and I bled so much that I was too sore after. I slept for the rest of the day and only went to explore the village an hour before sunset. After a quick shower and a delicious dinner, I spent several hours staring at the skies filled with a million stars. The wind was cold and the night was quiet. The silence in the mountains has always been the reason I’m so drawn to places like Batad and Sagada . My only hope is for these places not to lose their culture and tradition in this ever changing world. I sighed while I took a sip on my cup of coffee. I was to leave another magical place come the light of the morning but a promise of seeing it another time is yet again sealed in my heart.

How To Go To Buscalan

From Manila – In Cubao, ride a Coda Lines bus going to Bontoc (10Hrs ; P725/way). From Bontoc, ride a jeepney going to Buscalan Village jump-off (2Hrs ; P100). Alternatively from Bontoc, you can ride a jeep or a bus bound for Tabuk and alight in Bugnay Village in Tinglayan (1.5Hrs ; P70). From there, you will need to ride a motorcycle to Buscalan Village jump-off. Once you’re at the jump-off, you will need to hike for 30 minutes to 1 hour to reach the village.

Another option from Manila is to ride a Victory Liner bus in Kamias going to Tabuk (10Hrs ; P800/way). Alight in St. Williams Cathedral in Tabuk City. From there, ride a jeep or a bus going to Bontoc and alight in Brgy. Bugnay in Tinglayan (2Hrs ; P200). You will need to ride a motorcycle (habal-habal) to reach Buscalan Village jump-off.

From Baguio – Ride a bus from Dangwa Terminal going to Bontoc (8Hrs ; P250). Trips start at 2 AM. From Bontoc, ride a jeepney going to Buscalan Village jump-off (2Hrs ; P100). Alternatively from Bontoc, you can ride a jeep or a bus bound for Tabuk and alight in Bugnay Village in Tinglayan (1.5Hrs ; P70). From there, you will need to ride a motorcycle to Buscalan Village jump-off. Once you’re at the jump-off, you will need to hike for 30 minutes to 1 hour to reach the village.

Buscalan Travel Tips

• If your way is via Bontoc, note that the jeep which goes directly to Buscalan Village only has one trip daily and it departs at 2 PM. The terminal is just beside the Mountain Province State Polytechnic College. The same jeep will take you back to Bontoc from Buscalan and it departs once daily at 9 AM.
• If you missed the jeep to Buscalan Village or if you are in a hurry then you can simply ride the jeep or bus from Bontoc going to Tabuk and alight in Bugnay near the diversion road to Buscalan Village. Trips are available at a 30-minute to an hour interval from 7 AM to 4 PM daily.
• Expect a scenic ride full of twists and turns. You will be traveling along the Cordillera mountains. The roads are kind of dangerous so as an additional precaution, jeeps and buses only run at moderate and controlled speeds.
• Guides are required in order to enter and explore Buscalan Village. They are also necessary for getting an appointment with Apo Whang Od. Reservation is not necessary but might be an advantage if you will go there during weekends and peak seasons. Guides await for visitors at the jump-off. Guide fee is P1000/day/5People.
• There are no hotels/inns in Buscalan Village but the villagers offer their home for P300/head/night which is inclusive of bed, bath, and unlimited rice and coffee.
• The villagers can understand and speak English but not fluently. Tagalog is also widely spoken.
• Cellular network coverage is weak to zero in Buscalan Village. Globe has better coverage than other networks and can still send texts and make calls using a basic phone.
• Your host can also cook food for you for an additional fee. If you are on a budget, you can bring with you canned goods or buy them from some stores in the village.
• Avoid going to Buscalan Village during weekends as it is packed with tourists and you might find it difficult to get a tattoo from Apo Whang Od.
• Bring enough cash. There is no ATM in the village. The nearest ATMs are in Bontoc and Tabuk City.
• 3 days and 2 nights is recommended to fully experience Buscalan Village but if you’re in a hurry and is only after the tattoo or seeing Apo Whang Od then 2 days and 1 night should do it for you.

Buscalan Batok Tattoo Designs, Meaning & Prices

Reminder: Please note that the prices here are not standard and can change from one Mambabatok to another.

Budget, Itinerary & Other Essentials

There you have it lovelies.

I hope you enjoyed my trip to Buscalan and found it useful. For questions and suggestions, feel free to leave them on the comments. Don’t forget to share!!! Until next time. Ciao!

My Kalinga/Batok Tattoo Turned Out To Be The Absolute Worst

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Thank you!! Ive been looking for directions from Tabuk! Thank you for the wonderful information!

Hi Kim. No worries! Have fun on your trip.

How many days would I need to stay if I just wanted to get the three dots from Apo Wang Od? If I were to Leave Manila on a Friday? Arriving Buscalan Friday night?

If you’re only after the tattoo, you can leave on Saturday after getting tattoed by Apo Whang Od.

Where do I book for travel guide?

I can refer you to a travel organizer. Here are his schedules:

August 12-13/sat-sun August 19-20/sat-sun August 26-27/sat-sun

₱3500/head all in na po yan.

Is end of August a good time to go? I am looking into going Aug 30- Sep 1.

Love reading your journey! And for the research it’s wonderful!

One question: how did you book your homestay? Did you book in advance or upon arrival?

Hopefully you can read this comment before me and my boyfriend go😊

Hi Alyssa! Thanks. I got our homestay upon arrival.

How are the twist and turns Keza? I heard some experienced nausea because of it. How was it for you? Are the twist and turns only specific to Bontoc going to Buscalan?

Hi Mae. It wasn’t that bad for me. Probably because our driver drove the jeep at moderate speed so the sudden turn was barely felt. There were lots of twist and turns from Banaue to Bontoc then to Buscalan. If you’re the type to get sick during trips, I suggest taking the appropriate medication beforehand. Enjoy and stay safe.

When did you go to Apo? I was able to visit last 2016. There might be changes since we had a pandemic. Anyway, it is so refreshing to read your article and memories from my past travel there became vivid. Thanks for sharing!

Hi Lou. I traveled December before the pandemic. Agree. There are probably changes but dunno what those are. Glad I helped you reminisce your trip there.

Hi,planning to go on a solo trip to buscalan to get my very first tattoo. I wanted it done by Apo Whang Od. Hope to go there real soon.

Good luck on your trip then!

Hi, Keza! I was planning on going there and my senior (cool) mom wants to tag along! Haha However, I am not familiar how difficult the trek going to the village is. My mom is not an active individual (in terms of exercise and the likes) but she likes doing stuffs all the time so I am worried that the trek might be too much for her…

Hi Maye. The trek is reall not that difficult since the trail is already established and most of it is a concrete path/ladder. It’s steep though but I think your mom can manage given enough breathers in between and if she has less baggage.

Hello may I ask how much is your budget from Manila going to Whang-ods village including the guide fee ?

Budget depends on your itinerary and mode of transport. If you would follow mine, I have a breakdown of the cost on the blog.

I wandering how to get a guide or host yo stay. Do you need to book ing advance?

Hello Judy. I didn’t book in advance. I got the guide and my host upon arriving in Buscalan.

Im going to Baguio tomorrow for a day and on the next day off to Buscalan Apo Wang Od. Never been to Baguio North Area. But I’m happy if any interested joiner.

Me too. We could exchange numbers

Hi Jonathan, sorry I lost connection. I’m here at Bontoc at the moment plan to go Buscalan tomorrow morning.

Hi Keza, thanks! Very informative to and helpful. I’m planning to go there next month hopefully ma follow ko yung nasa itinerary mo.

Have fun po and keep safe.

Thanks for this very informative blog, I’m also planning to go there next month and thankfully I read this, I now have an idea or maybe I’ll just follow your itinerary. Thanks Keza!

Thank you po for sharing ung experience niyo po! nagadvance book po ba kayo ng ticket mula bontoc pauwi ng maynila?

Hello Pow. Yes. Nag advance booking ako nung nasa Sagada ako para di ako maubusan ng seat sa preferred time of departure ko.

Hi, do you have sample computation of how much did you spend from Manila going there?

Hi. It’s all on the blog. Thanks

Awesome. Thank you for the response. Is it pretty easy to find a jeep going to Bontoc from Banaue? I am American and not finding much good information on the internet lol thank you again for your response!

Hi Claude. Yes. There are passenger jeeps and vans at the public market going to Bontoc from Banaue every hour. You can also utilize the bus. You can check the tourism office for info once you get to Banaue to avoid getting ripped off.

Hi Claude, are you travelling solo or with groups? I am a solo bagpacker you might want a companion ofcourse I will pay for my own lol

Hi Keza! I wanted to take the route you did because I would like to see the Banaue rice terraces as well. I was going to take a Ohayami bus to Banaue but from there, how exactly did you get to Buscalan? Did you book another bus, or just find local transit?

Hello Claude. From Banaue, we took a jeep to Bontoc then in Bontoc, we rode a jeep to Buscalan.

HI . SAN PO PWEDE MAGSTAY FOR 1 NIGHT?

Hi. You can stay in Buscalan. Meron nman mga homestays dun.

Hi magkano un charge nila sa tattoo?

Hello Kathy. Depends on the design. Rate starts at P300 the time I went there.

How did you contact lokal guide and book for the home stay

I didn’t contact her in advance. They just offered their services once I got there.

Hello po. Did you visit this year? Are tourists allowed to visit the village and whang od during this pendemic? thank you!!

Prepandemic po. Di pa po allowed travel to Buscalan.

Hi how about this coming december? Pwede n po kayang magtravel?

Hello Gio. Kalinga is now open to tourist. You can ask from their official fb page if nagppasok na sa Buscalan.

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Getting A Tribal Tattoo from Apo Whang-Od in Buscalan, Kalinga

One of the best cultural experiences you can have in the Philippines is getting a tribal tattoo from Apo Whang-Od. Apo Whang-Od is an indigenous tribeswoman considered to be the last “mambabatok” (hand-tapped tattoo artist) of the Butbut Tribe in Buscalan Village, Kalinga.

This article includes my experience in getting a tattoo and a guide on how you can get here too.

My trip to Buscalan Village for a tribal tattoo

From quezon city, jump-off point to buscalan village, about the butbut tribe and tattooing, about getting a tribal tattoo, important tattoo care, 2 days itinerary to buscalan, other things to do in buscalan village, kalinga, budget and expenses, travel tips, what to read next:.

In the summer of 2015, I went to Kalinga for an outreach drive with friends. Visiting Kalinga was something I’d been looking forward for so long. There is something profound in immersing yourself in a culture that may eventually be lost in time. Our country has so much stories that are slowly fading a way, and to be inked by the oldest mambabatok in Kalinga is a way to preserve those stories.

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From Manila, we drove to the mountains in Kalinga Province, located north of the Philippines. About 14 hours later, we arrived in Tinglayan, the hometown of Apo Whang-Od. On our way, we had stopovers to see the popular rice terraces in the area.

We trekked across a cemented walkway and then had a stopover in a waterfall.

Finally, we arrived at Buscalan Village in Kalinga. We were greeted by the villagers and given coffee, which were as good as the brews in Batangas. One thing that I noticed in the village is that black pigs were freely roaming around. For someone like me who grew up in the city, this was an uncommon sight to see.

We settled our bags in the homestay prepared for us and then gathered at the tattoo site. Once Apo Whang-Od arrived, everyone in there was in awe. We wanted to capture the smiles and laughs she greeted us with.

The tattoo session began. Only one person was tattooed by Apo Whang-Od that day. It was a birthday person in our group who chose to have a centipede design. The centipede tattoo means protection and represents a spiritual guide, which is fitting for someone celebrating another year of life.

The next morning, some of my companions went to the outreach site, while I went to see Apo Whang-Od. There was already a long line of people waiting.

Apo Whang-Od’s niece, Grace, was the first to start tattooing the visitors. After a while, another niece named Eliang joined in. The organizer for the session formed a loop that included one person from each visotor group so that everyone would have the chance to be tattooed.

I was third in line to be tattooed by the legendary Apo Whang-Od. While waiting, I browsed through the book about Kalinga tattoos. Initially, I was interested in the tattoo for “kidlat” (thunder).Then I learned that this design was derived from “karayan” (river), which means influence or to influence. Eventually I decided to get the karayan design on my left arm.

Before my turn, Apo Whang-Od had lunch. It was already a half day of waiting. I didn’t mind although I did miss the outreach event, and when she was back, the session began.

The hand tapping was painful. After a while, the skin began to numb and the pain lessened, but whenever the needle hit the bone, especially the nerve, I would jerk in pain. I took pictures while being tattooed, and Apo did not mind.

We were tattooed in a hut with pictures of a lot of visitors glued or taped on the wood just below the roof. The view was a bliss. We were surrounded by greenery, and the only noise were the giggles and laughter of the other visitors. It was quite an experience.

After my tattoo was done, Apo Whang-Od spread coconut oil on the fresh wound. Coconut oil changes when it stays longer in the cold. I hugged Apo Whang-Od after the session and took a picture with her.

I was happy about my tattoo, although I’ve only learned a little about the history of the tribe on my visit. I haven’t had the chance to talk to Apo Whang-Od to ask about the history of the traditional tattooing in their tribe and other stories due to language barrier. Instead, what I learned I read from the tattoo book.

We packed our things and were thankful for the safe and wonderful experience.

Update : Hali had his tattoo done by Apo Whang-Od in 2015. He initially wanted to have the design go around his arm, but Apo Whang-Od got tired so it was only done at the front. The design healed well, but there were permanent small holes on the skin. Regardless, Hali is happy about his tattoo since he considers it an important cultural mark.

How to get to Buscalan, Kalinga

From Manila, it will take you around 12-14 hours to reach Buscalan Village in Kalinga Province.

Bus terminals can be found in Cubao and Quezon City.

• From Cubao, ride a Coda Lines bus bound for Bontoc. Travel time is 10 hours, fare is P725 per person.
• ( Option 1 ): From Bontoc, ride a jeepney to the jump-off point to Buscalan Village. Travel time is 2 hours, fare is P100 per person.
• ( Option 2 ): Alternatively, you can also ride a bus bound for Tabuk and get off at Bugnay Village in Tinglayan. Travel time is 1.5 hour, fare is P70 per person. From there, ride a motorcycle to the jump-off point to Buscalan Village.
• From Kamias in Quezon City, ride a Victory Liner bus bound for Tabuk and get off at St. Williams Cathedral in the city. Travel time is 10 hours, fare is P800 per person.
• From Tabuk, ride a bus or jeepney bound for Bontoc and get off at Bugnay Village in Tinglayan. Travel time is 2 hours, fare is P200 per person. From there, ride a motorcycle to the jump-off point to Buscalan Village.

From the jump-off point, trek for 30 minutes to 1 hour to reach the village.

Here’s a little background about the ButBut Tribe in Buscalan Village in Kalinga and the history and culture of tattooing.

The ButBut Tribe is one of the 30+ ethnic groups in the region. They live in a simple community, raising farm animals and tending to the rice terraces. In fact, the Tinglayan Rice Terraces is one of the most scenic landscapes in the Cordillera Region. The tribe also makes their own Arabica coffee.

The tribal tattoos are part of the culture of the ButBut Tribe. It was previously given to tribal warriors for killing an enemy and women for decoration. The new indigenous laws indicate that the tattoo is a property of the whole community.

The tattooing method is called “ Batok .” It uses pomelo plant thorn as needle and powdered charcoal and water as ink. It is said to be more painful than modern tattoos done with a machine.

Apo Whang-Od is considered the last mambabatok (tattoo artist in the village). Traditionally, this skill is only passed down to lineage, but since she is childless, she has taught her nieces and other women in the village to do it as well.

Here are the things you need to know if you plan on getting a tribal tattoo:

• Both local and foreigner visitors are welcome to get a tattoo.
• You’ll be given a book of tattoo designs with their meanings or associations, from which you can choose which one to get.
• As of this writing (2022), Apo Whang-Od is over 100 years old so she no longer tattoos large designs. Instead, she only does her signature tattoo (the three dots). Moreover, having a tattoo with Apo Whang-Od is not always guaranteed — especially on weekends when there is usually a long line of tourists. Apo Whang-Od only speaks the local dialect (not Filipino or English), but her family can help translate between the two of you so you can communicate properly.

If it’s your first time to have a tattoo, make sure to read up on tattoo care . The tattoo is a “wound” that needs to be taken cared of, so it will heal properly and avoid infections.

Here are basic tattoo care you should know:

• Avoid getting the tattoo dirty especially after the session.
• Wash it with soap and water in the morning and at night.
• Apply coconut oil or petroleum jelly to speed up the healing process.
• Let the tattoo heal naturally. Do not scratch it even if it gets itchy.
• If you start to see signs of infection, consult a doctor immediately.

Here’s a sample 2 days itinerary to Buscalan Village, Kalinga. This is ideal for weekend trips.

Generally, it’s recommended to spend at least 3 days here so you have more time for cultural immersion with locals.

Aside from getting a tribal tattoo, here are other things you can do in Buscalan Village.

• See the surrounding rice terraces and waterfall.
• Explore the wall paintings within the village.
• Taste local dishes such as etag (cured pork) and locally brewed coffee.
• Check out the souvenir items, including necklaces and ref magnets.
• For those looking for side trips, Banaue and Sagada are close destinations.

Here are the current rates for your trip to Kalinga ( Updated as of 2022 ):

A few things to note:

• Aside from the usual registration fees above, guide fee is also required. Guides are posted at the jump-off point and they are required to enter the village.
• It is challenging to go to Buscalan Village alone, so it’s recommended to go on a joiner tour instead. The rate is around P3500 for an overnight tour.

And here are important things to know before you go.

• What to bring : Bring enough cash. There are no ATMs in the village; the nearest ATM can be found in Bontoc. Also, bring a reusable travel bottle for the hike.
• Where to stay : Currently, homestays are the only available accommodation in the village. An overnight booking includes unlimited rice and coffee. You may also bring your own food or buy canned goods at the store and have your host cook it for you for a small additional fee. If the homestays at Buscalan Village are fully booked, you can book an accommodation in Bontoc or Sagada Instead.
• When to visit : It’s best to go here on weekdays to avoid the crowd. Reservation is not required, but it’s recommended especially if you decide to go on weekends or holidays.

Other reminders and tips:

• Be respectful to the indigenous community.
• There is no signal or wifi connection in the village. Be prepared to disconnect during your stay.
• Feel free to take photos of the tattooing session, as well as the surrounding community (with locals’ persmission) and terraces. However, take note that use of drones is not allowed.
• Occasionally, the tattoo artists in Buscalan Village join tattoo events in Metro Manila or other nearby locations. If you do not want the hassle of going to Kalinga, this might be an option for you.

For questions about visiting Buscalan Village in Kalinga, you may contact Kalinga Tourism in Facebook .

Has this guide to getting a tribal tattoo in Buscalan Village in Kalinga been helpful to you? If you have questions, let us know in the comments section below!

Here are similar posts:

• Getting a Sak Yant Tattoo

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Hali Navarro is a backpacker and outdoor enthusiast. He is also a 2D/3D animator. He likes backpacking and adventure activities like hiking, swimming, and cliff jumping. He claims to have a personal army of ants.

10 Comments

Thanks for the very detailed article – can you please let me know if there are any changes to how to get there and what I need to know before?

I intend to travel there next month

Hi! is it safe to travel now (Nov. 2021) ? Do they welcome tourist ? What is the fastest route to Buscalan from Cebu? Thanks in advance. Your blog is very informative by the way 🙂

Katherine Cortes

Hi Rose! Buscalan is now open to tourists. If I’m not mistaken, you need to be fully vaccinated. I don’t know about the fastest route from Cebu, since I live in Manila. 🙂

This looks nothing but AMAZING! I’ve always wanted to visit Kalinga but never got the chance… yet. I hope to go here sometime soon! 🙂

This is so interesting. I have read about others going to have Apo Whang give tattoos and I am in awe. This was the first time I saw the instruments that they used for the tattoo. I am not sure if I would be brave enough but since it seems like a great honor you would really want to have it done. What a beautiful trip you had!

Marge Gavan

He drank alcohol before the tattoo? That’s actually discouraged before the proceed because it tends to make the blood thin, therefore, it would be more bloody? So was his tattoo session bloody?

I got my Apo Whang-Od mark in 2014 and I remember feeling starstruck the first time I laid eyes on her. The batok was really painful but I endured it because I wanted Apo to do it even when they said Grace does it gently.

No, but other people did. I guess alcohol being a blood thinner isn’t that known. Anyway, yes he still bled. 🙂

Ang galing ng experience ninyo. 🙂 You saw some really scenic views and to ba tattooed the traditional way… gosh, looking at the photos already is enough for me to feel the pain, and yes, I also have a tattoo I got way back when I lived in Boracay. The pain… and yes, gin is recommended.

Thanks, Kuya Robert. Sayang wasn’t able to come with Hali, I was in a beach trip during this time. Want to get a tattoo as well, but Apo Whang-od only has limited designs, which she gets from a book, and I want a different design sana. 🙂

jendialouise

oh gosh.. it does really look painful. But seeing that kind of art is just so amazing. There are a lot of fascinating places and culture in our country that needs to be discovered. You’re so lucky enough to witness such beauty and talent of Apo Whang.

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Buscalan Village: Budget Kalinga Travel Guide

A po Whang Od is famously known as the  last mambabatok of the Kalinga .  Batok is a form of traditional tattoo; given to warriors with unprecedented achievement during the early times. Travelers, not just from the Philippines, all over the world visit her just to have this traditional tattoo as a form of lifetime and meaningful souvenir, but visiting her place is quite challenging. We visited Apo Whang Od on a 2D1N trip and this is our comprehensive travel guide to Apo Whang Od’s place:  Buscalan Village, Tinglayan, Kalinga, Philippines.

This post is updated on November 16,   2020.

As of November 16, 2020: All tourism activities in the municipality of Tinglayan, Kalinga are still suspended until further notice. For now, feel free to read this blog post and save it for future reference. Stay safe everyone!

• How to go? Manila to Buscalan
• From Tabuk to Tinglayan (Top Load Kalinga Style)
• Habal-Habal from Barangay Bugnay to Turning Point (List of Tour Guides)
• Hike from Turning Point to Buscalan
• Arrival at Buscalan
• Receiving Kalinga Tattoo
• Our Trip Expenses

Our Buscalan Itinerary

Day 0: From Manila

How to go manila to buscalan.

Visiting Apo Whang Od is quite difficult and it took us a total of  17 grueling hours just to reach their village. There are  two routes to choose from:

• Manila to Tabuk City, Kalinga to Tinglayan, Kalinga or;
• Manila to Bontoc, Mountain Province to Tinglayan, Kalinga

We are going to show the directions for the first route (Manila to  Tabuk City, Kalinga  to  Tinglayan, Kalinga)  since this is the route that we used for this trip.

Option 1: Victory Liner Bus to Tabuk City – (9 hours)

This is the first part of the trip: We took a bus from  Victory Liner in  Kamias, Quezon City going to  Tabuk City, Kalinga . The fare is ₱887 (as of November 15, 2020)  for  Deluxe Class and the bus leaves at 1900H (7:00 PM) every day. There are only two bus classes for this trip –  deluxe and first class .

Update as of November 15, 2020: There are now two (2) available Victory Liner Bus Stations in Manila going to Tabuk City in Kalinga. See the table below:

When we visited Buscalan, we took a Deluxe Bus from Kamias Station going to Tabuk City. Take note that there are now two available bus stations in Manila going to Tabuk City. You can take whichever bus station you prefer depending on your convenience and schedule. Just inform the bus conductor that you will alight in Bulanao near St. William’s Cathedral.

Make sure to  purchase your tickets in advance! We bought our tickets a few days before our trip. There are many passengers going to Tabuk City every day and it is better to purchase your tickets in advance.

Option 2: Bontoc to Buscalan

This is the second option going to Buscalan: take a bus ride from  Coda Bus Line in  Quezon City going to  Bontoc, Mountain Province . Here are Coda Bus Line’s updated bus schedule and fare:

To prevent the long queues of buying your tickets at the station, it is recommended to reserve your tickets online in their website. Here’s the link: http://codalines.philippinebus.com

Pros and Cons

Both options has their own pros and cons. Choosing Option 1 will give you shorter travel time, but the trip going to Tinglayan from Tabuk City takes at 4-5 hours.

Option 2,  on the other hand, has longer travel time at 11 hours but, the trip from Bontoc to Tinglayan is shorter at around 2-3 hours. Once you arrived at Bontoc, you can take a van, jeep or mini bus going to Tinglayan, Kalinga.

Bottom line, it all depends on your preferred schedule. We chose option 1 since the bus schedule of Victory Liner is more appropriate in our condition than in option 2.

Day 1: Arrival in Tabuk City, Kalinga

We arrived in  Tabuk City at 0400H (4:00 AM) and alighted in front of St. William’s Cathedral . The next step is to take either a jeep, van or minibus going to  Tinglayan, Kalinga . The problem is that,  the first trip will start at 0700H (7:00 AM).

We stayed in the nearest police station for the next three hours of the trip. The police station is located in front of  St. William’s Cathedral . Just ask permission to the police on duty before staying in their place. You can also stay in a sari-sari store in front of the cathedral where you can buy snacks or sip some brewed Kalinga coffee.

There is also a  Mister Donut just beside  St. William’s Cathedral . This is where we had our breakfast at 0630H   enough to refuel ourselves for the upcoming trip ahead.

Tabuk City to Tinglayan, Kalinga – (4 hours)

There are  three options available going to  Tinglayan, Kalinga :

• Take a Van – there are vans available located a few meters away from  St. William’s Cathedral and the  Police Station . These vans will go directly to the  turning point .  (The TURNING POINT is the starting place of hike going to  Buscalan Village ).  The fare costs at ₱150 .
• Take a Minibus   – you can also stay in front of  St. William’s Cathedral and wait for a  minibus  bound to  Bontoc, Mountain Province . The fare costs at  ₱130 . Just inform the driver that you will alight in  Barangay Bugnay in  Tinglayan .
• Take a Top Load Jeep – if you want to be adventurous, then you can also ride a  top load jeep bound to  Bontoc, Mountain Province . Just tell the driver or conductor that you will alight in  Barangay Bugnay  in  Tinglayan . The fare costs  ₱130 .

For this trip, we took a top load jeep for  4 hours from  Tabuk City to  Barangay Bugnay in  Tinglayan, Kalinga . Top loading is a common form of transportation here in the north and it is not suitable for the faint-of-heart.

WARNING:  The route from  Tabuk City to  Tinglayan is considered perilous because of its tortuous highways. Its road is absent of guard rails and there are ravines waiting for a vehicle to dive into. Just look into the photographs I took during our top load ride.

The experience is both a mixture of fear and amazement. Without minding the danger, I just enjoyed the view of towering mountains, endless forests, and cool winds brushing off my body.

FRIENDLY REMINDERS FOR RIDING A TOP LOAD JEEP

• Always stay hydrated! The top load ride from  Tabuk City to  Tinglayan is a total of  4 hours . Make sure to have adequate supply of water to keep yourself hydrated.
• Protect yourself from the sun! This type of transportation is also a form of respect. The passengers staying inside the vehicle are designated for women and elders. To protect yourself from the scorching heat of the sun, I advised wearing sunscreen or clothes with long sleeves.
• Stay alert! Always stay alert during the top load ride. Do not fall asleep or you might fall into the waiting cliffs of  Cordillera Mountain Range.
• Bring snacks with you!  The 4-hour top load ride is a no joke, and bringing a snack will give you a quick fix for a rumbling tummy. However, there’s a stopover available in  Good Samaritan Restaurant  in  Tinglayan, Kalinga . A few kilometers away from  Good Samaritan Restaurant is the  Barangay Bugnay .

Take a Habal-Habal from Barangay Bugnay to Turning Point

We arrived in  Barangay Bugnay at  1100H (11:00 AM) . From there we met our guide  Bulut  (cousin of our contact guide, Oliver).  It is a must to have a contacted guide before heading for this trip. We contacted  sir Oliver a week prior for this escapade.

Oliver – 09397741477 (Our Recommended Tour Guide)

Please be patient when contacting sir Oliver or the other guides in Buscalan ,  because the signal reception in their area is incredibly weak and expect delays in text messages; rest assured that these people are very accommodating. Without them, our trip will not be possible. Here are the contact numbers of other tour guides in Buscalan.

From  Barangay Bugnay , we took a  habal-habal up to the turning point ; the fare costs  ₱100 . This is the advantage of taking a van I mentioned earlier in this post. These vans will take you directly to the  turning point.  Since we are feeling adventurous that morning, we opted for a top load jeep instead.

Hike from Turning Point to Buscalan Village (1 hour and 30 minutes)

This is the last part of the trip going to Buscalan Village. The total hike time from the turning point to the village is a total of 1 hour and 30 minutes; depending on your pace and fitness level.

TAKE NOTE:  Every traveler needs to hike starting from the turning point because the path going to the village is inaccessible by any land vehicles. This hike is not designed for people with certain medical conditions and physical disabilities since the trail is  dangerous.

FACING THE BUSCALAN CLIFF

Part of the trail of this hike is the Buscalan Cliff . Yes! You need to climb down a cliff, and  it is the only way going to the village.  Always be careful while stepping down on this cliff.  There are no available guide ropes in the area to hold on . See the pictures of our hike down in the Buscalan Cliff.

The cliff is very steep and one wrong move you’ll fall into the ravine. Keep it slow, take your time and do not rush. Your guide will be there to help you in this hike.

UPDATE:  Based from recent travelers who went to Buscalan, there’s already a man-made rail in this area. Hiking to the village is now safer than before. (February 26, 2018)

TAKE NOTE:  Always keep yourself hydrated during the hike to prevent heat exhaustion. You can rest for a while during the hike to restore energy and prevent fatigue.

Hello Buscalan Village!

Finally, we reached the village! We arrived at  1230H (12:30 PM) and went to our accommodation at  Vista Resthouse . This lodge is the home of our tour guides, Sir Oliver and Sir Bulut . They converted a part of their home into a relaxing rest house for travelers. The accommodation fee is  ₱250 a night, per person.

Our tiny bedroom is made up of wood and it can accommodate up to 2 persons. There’s a thin bed mattress on it with available pillows and blankets.

Part of our accommodation is the  unlimited Kalinga coffee  and  free rice . For our meal, we just brought our canned goods adequate for our whole stay in Buscalan Village.

Kalinga Tattoo

This is the highlight of our trip and your guide will help you sign up for the tattooing session. Receiving a tattoo either from  Apo Whang Od  or  Grace  (Apo Whang Od’s grandniece) is both an honor and a humbling experience. This is your reward after that long travel going to this village.

You can choose a design presented in this piece of plywood, or let  Grace  or  Apo Whang Od choose a design for you.

TAKE NOTE: We recommend taking a bath first before having a tattoo. Our guide told us that you are not allowed to take a bath after the tattoo session to prevent the ink from being washed off.

The price of your newly inked tattoos depends on its size and complexity. It can range from  ₱100  to  ₱2,000 . My tattoo was a  standing eagle/hawk design which means a messenger and freedom; it costed  ₱500 .

TAKE NOTE:  Please do not haggle or ask for bargain.  Apo Whang Od will determine the price of your tattoo. The price provided is just right and it’s also a way of helping the community of  Buscalan .

OTHER ACTIVITIES IN BUSCALAN KALINGA

• Socialization with the locals and other travelers
• Picture taking of the amazing mountainous topography of Buscalan Village
• Play basketball with the locals in the nearby court
• Try farming with the locals
• We also donated school supplies to the children of Buscalan. – I highly recommend this activity.

Day 2: Going Back to Manila

Tinglayan, kalinga to bontoc, mountain province (1 hour and 30 minutes).

We woke up around  0600H (6:00 AM)  the next day; had a quick breakfast, and packed our things. Before hiking back, we paid sir Bulut for the guide fee ( ₱1,000 good for 2-4 people). We started our hike back to the turning point at  0800H (8:00 AM) . From the  turning point , a minibus bound to  Bontoc, Mountain Province  was waiting for us.

We took the minibus bound to  Bontoc, Mountain Province  and once again we rode on top load again.

The route from  Tinglayan, Kalinga to  Bontoc, Mountain Province  offers a more beautiful view than the route we took the previous day. Though it’s more scenic, the path is also more dangerous than the first because some roads are positioned at the edge of a cliff.

The bus fare costs  ₱100 ,   and we arrived in  Bontoc, Mountain Province  at  1100H (11:00 AM)

From Bontoc, Mountain Province to Manila

We had our lunch in  Bontoc, Mountain Province in one of the available eateries in the area, and made our reservations for a bus bound to  Manila . We took the  Coda Bus Line at a fare of  ₱685 .

TAKE NOTE:  Make sure to contact  Coda Bus Line for reservation first. Their contact number is  09159596377 . The bus will leave at 1600H (4:00 PM) and their station is located inside  Cable Cafe and Restaurant after crossing  Samoki Bridge . It’s just a few meters away from drop off point of the minibus so you could walk from it with ease.

UPDATE:  You can reserve your bus tickets online for convenience for Bontoc to Manila trip. Here’s the company link:  http://www.codalinesph.com/online-bus-ticket-booking/

Our Trip Expenses (excluding food)

Come and visit  Buscalan Village and experience an unforgettable adventure. Learn about the culture of  Butbut tribe and their way of life. Get a tattoo from  the last mambabatok of Kalinga –  Apo Whang Od ,   and bring a meaningful mark that you will carry for a lifetime.

If you find this travel guide helpful and relevant. Please share it to your friends! Always remember that sharing is caring 🙂

This post was originally published on May 15, 2017 and updated on November 15, 2020.

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82 comments . leave new.

hi, may idea ka ba kung okay pumunta ng buscalan sa july? thanks.

Hi Jay, Yes, pwedeng pwede naman. The only problem is the weather. Just keep an eye on the weather. The rainy season can mess up the road, making it unsafe for tourists.

Hello po. Magtatanong lang po kung mas ok po ba na sumama sa mga groups or mas ok mag commute? Tsaka kung safe naman po ang daan sa pag trek ngayon. Mas ok po ba na konti lang ang bitbit basta madadala ung importanteng gamit? At anu po usual na magandang token or dala para sa mga native pp ng Buscalan? Thanks po in advance sa pag sagot. God bless 🙂

To be honest, it’s been 3 years since the last time I visited Buscalan Village. Pero, I know a group that is a good resource about traveling to Buscalan. Here’s the link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/164620733642453

I ‘d mention that most of us visitors are endowed to exist in a fabulous place with very many wonderful individuals with very helpful things.

Hi sir blaine ganda ng blog mo super detailed, i just want to ask if yung bus/van from turning point to bontoc is available to regularly or pag peak days lang? Thank you sir 😊😊😊💖💖

Hey PandaBear, sorry for the late reply. As of now, Buscalan Village is temporarily closed to the public due to the pandemic. But during our trip, the bus from turning point to Bontoc has a twice a day schedule. Not sure though if they updated the trip schedule. Stay safe always!

Hi Sir Blaine,

tanong ko lang po kung may idea kayo, what if may dala sariling sasakyan? san kaya possible iwan sasakyan upon going to buscalan village? thanks!

Hello Mark, sorry for the late reply, I just moved in here in Houston, TX. Yes pwedeng magdala ng sariling sasakyan, pwede ring ipark yung private vehicles sa Turning Point.

Hi Blaine. Just checking if you know a guide who can provide us a tour, itenerary package for 2 days and 1 night for Tinglayan Tour. We will be coming from Tabuk so no need to include fare from Manila going to Tabuk. Thank you and I look forward to your response.

Hello Emmanuel, sorry for the late reply. I just moved in here in Houston Texas. You can try checking the FB group “Tattooed by Apo Whang Od”, it’s a great source of tour information.

hi,blaine. salamat po sa blog mo,salamat dahil naka tulong po kayo sa amin.dahil gusto kong pumonta sa buskalan,para makita ang the last manbabatok.at higit sa lahat gusto kong mag tatto..blaine salamat tinuro mo ang DAAN nga gusto kong puntahan,salamat

Sobrang nakakataba naman ng puso ang iyong comment. Sobrang salamat po ^_^, nga pala sorry sa late reply, I just moved in here sa Houston Texas kaya sobrang busy po. Salamat po ulet.

Hi Kuya Blaine,

We’re planning to go up and visit Apo Whang Od this coming August and because of your napaka informative na blog, di ko feel na mawawala kami 🤣 Napaka helpful kuya dahil detailed siya. 😂 Wala pa pero excited na kami tumawa este mag hike 🤣

Hi Liza, Thanks for your comment. Just FYI, it’s been a while since we updated this post. I recommend visiting the FB group “Tattooed by Whang Od.” It’s a great resource; many travelers use this group to ask questions and look for travel guides. Stay cool! https://www.facebook.com/groups/164620733642453

I found your blog very helpful however just want ask if you have any idea if there are any parking space if will bring our own car? is it safe as well? how much will we pay per day?

Hello JV, I know you will kill me for my late reply hahaha. I just moved in here in Houston Texas kaya sobrang busy po. Anyway, there’s parking available in Turning Point. The parking is free that time but I’m not sure today.

hey blaine,

Your blog is very useful and informative. I’m planning to visit by April 2019.

Ask ko lng po once we conctacted Sir Oliver automatic na din po ba may reservation kay apo whang od? para atleast once we arrived in the morning by afternoon dretso na kay apo whang od sana. limited ang kasi ang bakasyon pag uwi.

Oh no! You have 2 comments pala for follow-up I’m so sorry. I think, I updated this post for 2019 and I included the other contact numbers of other guides. You can contact them for reference. Sorry po talaga sa late reply T-T

after I read 4 other blogs, I think this one was really helpful and accurate and updated. Thankyou 😊

Wow super salamat Angelica ^_^

Hey there Blaine! I am planning on going to the Philippines just to head to Buscalan. I am super nervous about it yet so excited. I don’t have internationally calling for the tour guides, is there any other way of getting in contact with them?

Long story short, where do I start for my trip? It will be me and one other person.

Hello, would like to ask how long would the travel period be should we be travelling from Cubao bus terminal? Thank you and your blog is really helpful.

Hi Jeni! Thank you for visiting our blog. Are you talking about the Coda Bus Line in Cubao going to Bontoc? Travel time is 11 hours. For Victory Liner Bus from either Kamias or Sampaloc Manila to Tabuk City in Kalinga, travel time is 9 hours.

Hi, Blaine!

Good thing I stumbled upon your blog. It’s really helpful. I’m going to Buscalan this coming weekend. You said that you guys donated some school supplies. How many children are there? Is it okay to just distribute it to them or do I need to talk to someone from the municipal. Also, is it okay to give them some chocolates & candies? Will appreciate your response! Good day!

Sorry for the late reply Gena, we’ve been updating this website for almost 2 weeks now. I think we donated to at least a hundred children in the village. We just asked Bulut, our guide, in helping us to dustribute the school supplies. We do not recommend giving chocolates or candies as it may affect the dental health of the kids. You may opt for healthy and nutritious snacks instead. 😊

Hi Blaine! Nice blog btw, Very informative :). However, is there any chance I could catch a bus de route to the town from Pampanga? (since plane ticket bought is direct flight from Dvo-clark) Thank you. 🙂

Hello Gladys! Upon checking, there’s a Victory bus station in Dau, Mabalacat, Pampanga. That’s around 10 kilometers from the airport. I’m not sure if there are buses going to Kalinga from that terminal. You can check their website for further info.

Hello Blaine, I have to visit your blog again for some info that might help us (tour guide number etc. since your blog got the most updated info so far).. Hahah. Anyway, We will be coming to Buscalan nextweek with a friend but we decided to go there thru motorcycle ride ( roadtrip 😀 ) Do you happen to know if may pag iiwanan ng motor sa turning point before going to the village?. 🙂

May i ask? Is it okay for a Solo backpacker to go in Buscalan?

How much will be the damages?

Hello Nadine, yes this trip is good for solo backpackers and the expenses will be higher than with a group. Just check our expenses on this post and calculate it. I think it will cost you around PHP 4,000.

Hi po. Magkakaproblema po kaya if weekdays ako pumunta? Plano ko po kasi Monday ako pumunta. Okay lang po ba siya gawin mag-isa?

Hello Roger, there will be no problem if you’re going to visit on a Monday. In fact, we visited Buscalan on a Monday too. The tourists are few in which you will surely enjoy your stay. 🙂

Good day. Ask ko lang po kung may byahe pa victory liner pa tabuk? Nagttry po kasi ako magbook walang choices to tabuk. Ty po

Yes there is, but Victory Liner do not have an online booking for Kamuning to Tabuk yet. You have to go the bus station in Kamuning for advance booking. 🙂

Hi Blaine, Loved your blog. Tinglayan looks like an amazing remote site to visit. Would you know how many tourists/trekkers visit Tinglayan annually? I would love to get in touch with any tourism officer or tour guides there if you have their contacts. Thank you

Sorry for the late reply Joyce, I don’t know the estimated number of tourists in Tinglayan every year. You can contact the Kalinga Tourism Office for more details.

Office on Tourism Services Governor’s Office, Provincial Capitol, Bulanao, Tabuk Provincial Tourism Officer: Ms. Grace Kidang

Provincial Tourism Council Chairperson: Ms. Nancy Tuazon c/o Kalinga Provincial Capitol Tel # 0918-715-7402

Hi Blaine, may pila ba kay Whang-od?

Yep! Merong pila. You have to register your name in the souvenir shop in Buscalan Village 😊

Hi Blaine! This blog is indeed very helpful. I have one concern though, we are taking option 2 in going to Bontoc, that means if we continue all along our ETA in Buscalan will already be 6pm. Is it doable? If yes, would it be safe? If not, is sleeping in an inn near terminal a good option? Will be glad to hear your advise on this one. Muchisimas gracias.

Hi Bernadette! Thank you for passing by our blog. If you’re going to try the route going to Bontoc then Tinglayan Kalinga, then the ETA is estimated around lunch time too. Bontoc to Tinglayan Kalinga is shorter than Tabuk to Tinglayan route 😊

Hello Blaine! Thanks so much for this wonderful and informative blog. Me and my cousins (8pax) are planning to visit and meet Apo Whang-Od this Sunday. We are planning to bring our private vehicle. San kaya pwede iwan yung vehicle? And active pa din ba number ni Sir Oliver?

Thank you for visiting our blog 😊 You can park your car/van at the jump off point. Yes, this is Oliver’s current number. Just be patient because the signal in their area is weak. You can also join the “Tattooed by Apo Whang Od” group in FB and check out for any updates like safety since it’s the rainy season, you can ask if the roads going there are passable or not 😊 Have a safe trip this Sunday. 😁

Hi Blaine, Thank you for your very useful information. 🙂

You’re welcome Arnel! Glad to know that you found useful information from our blog. 😊

Hi sir blaine… i saw your blog and napaka useful. may ask lang po ako about sa tourguide and accomodation na pag stayyan po? and sir pwede ko din po makuha ung contact niyopo. salamat po.

Hello Angelo! Sorry late reply, Been busy these past few days. Our guide, Oliver, provided their place for our stay. The name is Vista Homestay and it’s only for PHP 250 a night last year. I’m not sure if the prices are still the same. Also, you can go to “Tattooed by Apo Whang Od” FB group, you’ll find more info about homestays and guides in that group 😊

hi Blaine, very helpful blog… would schedule sometime soon when I come home for vacation. btw, I would like to invite you to visit our province in Davao…Food and Accommodation on me. Revert if you are interested.

you may start reading about our place, see and let me know yea? LOCATION: MATI, Davao Oriental

Cheers! and keep up the great work.

Hello. You’re blog is very useful and I’m using it as reference. I’m planning on going to Whang Od this August and will be departing from Manila on the eve of Aug. 18th. However I’m doubtful about the weather condition if it’s safe to go this August.

Hello Franz! Thank you so much for passing by on our blog. August is still under the rainy season here in the Philippines. Wherein the risk of landslides are high and most highways are impassable. I would recommend to reschedule your trip maybe on November where there’s less rain and typhoon.

Hello Blaine,

Your blog is very helpful and informative. My husband and I are planning to go this December. We’re bringing our motorcycle and coming from Manila to Bontoc. A rider here at work recommended to leave Manila at night and we’ll arrive at Bontoc around afternoon. Are there any sights you can recommend in Bontoc? We were also told we need to leave our motorcycle at the town proper. You may not have an info about this but I would still ask if you know where we can entrust our mc? With your blog, we’re planning to stay 2 days at Buscalan and enjoy the scenery and peace. Then take a side trip to Sagada and Baguio before returning home.

Thank you for visiting our blog Annie. I haven’t explored Bontoc yet, but we have plans in visiting Mt. Kufafey and Mt. Fato soon (located in Bontoc, Mountain Province). With regards to your MC, I think you can leave it at the jump-off point in Tinglayan, Kalinga. You can contact a local guide there, like Oliver, and ask for assistance before your planned trip. If you have a Facebook account, you can join the group “Tattooed by Apo Whang Od” and ask questions about your trip. You’ll get insights and feedback from fellow travelers and locals of Buscalan. Have a safe trip ahead 😊

Hi Blaine! Sobrang helpful nitong blog mo and thank you for that, by the way, I’m a college student and I am planning to visit the village a week or two from now for my thesis about “Batek” tattooes. I have no experiences and ideas about sa mga travel but I would love to try. Gusto ko lang tanong if ok lang ba to conduct interview kay Wang Od and if may bayad ba? Is it also ok to shoot documentaries dun sa village about the people? pumapayag ba yung people magpainterview and kung may bayad ba? Thank you! 🙂

Also to add if may electricity ba dun? Like pwede po bang magcharge ng kahit anong devices? Thank you!

Thank you for passing by on our blog Jay. Pwede namang mag-shoot ng documentaries around the area for educational purposes. With regards to the interview, I am not sure if you need to pay a certain amount to Apo. You can try contacting Oliver, our recommended tour guide, and inquire about your purpose of the trip. There’s also electricity in the area so you can charge your electronic devices.

Thank you for the response. I’m planning to travel next week July 19, do you think its safe now? And also what is the difference between the Deluxe and First Class Bus? May aircon yung isa ganun po? Thank you!

Hello! Both has Deluxe and First Class have AC. My only concern is the weather since it’s the rainy season. There might be risk of landslide in some areas so proceed with caution.

Hi Blaine! Thanks for a really helpful blog! I just want to know at what point of the trip should I contact the guide (Oliver) ? And is there anyway to contact him in advance to the trip from overseas? (e.g facebook, email, etc) Thank you!

Hello Linh!

Thank you for visiting our blog! He has a Facebook account, but he seldom goes online. You have to text/call Oliver in advance (2 weeks before the trip is recommended) before going to Buscalan. Just a heads up, the network signal in the area is very weak. Text him multiple times, so he can receive your messages.

If you’re planning to go on July, I am concern with safety because of landslide risks in the mountainous highway of Kalinga. I prefer you join a travel and tours group for this. You can join the group “Tattooed by Apo Whang Od” group on Facebook, and there are a lot of travel companies there offering package tours to Buscalan.

If you have further questions, just let me know and have a safe trip!

Hi Blaine, thank you for sharing this very detailed experience ! 😉 I plan to fly to Manila end of August 2018 and go for this trip to see Whang Od. Will the weather be okay (I know it’s stormy/typhoon season in the summer) and could I still proceed with the trip? Thank you.

Good evening Audrey!

Thank you for visiting the blog, and I’m glad that you find it really helpful. Yes you are correct! The weather will be rainy by September based on the previous weather records of Kalinga by Accuweather. I am quite concern with safety of travel, since the road going to the village are perilous and risk of landslides are high during the rainy season. With the risks involved, I would not recommend visiting this place during the rainy season due to safety concerns.

If you have further questions, feel free to send an email. Thank you 🙂

Sir Blain, why I can’t contact Mr. Oliver? was trying to call him but out of coverage area. Is there any way? any option. It’ s hard to go there without appointment. Planning to go there when the weather is good. Thanks alot

Hello Pamela, thank you for visiting the blog. The signal reception in Buscalan is extremely bad. You have to text Mr. Oliver frequently, because he might not receive these messages due to weak network coverage. Upon checking, the number posted in our website is still the updated contact number of Oliver. Just have patience, and he will reply to you soon.

Alternatively, if you have a Facebook account, you can join the group “Tattooed by Apo Whang Od”, you can post your inquiry there and ask for contact numbers of other tour guides in the village.

Hi Blaine! Is there another minibus trip from Turning point to Bontoc aside from that 9:30 am trip? thanks for your reply!

Thank you for visiting the blog. The usual check out time in the village is at 8:00 AM. The hike back going to the turning point takes around 1-1 hour and a half, and usually the local guides will charter a mini-bus for travelers going to Bontoc.

If you’re planning to leave the village at a later time, you have to ride a habal-habal from the turning point going down the highway; and from there, you have to wait for a jeep or minibus going to Bontoc.

If you have any further questions, just let me know 🙂

Hi.. Just an update.. I went there last monday and the man made rail has been removed… So it’s the same experienced as yours.. It’s really hard going to the village but it was all paid off after getting tattooed by apo whang od

Thank you for the information. We highly appreciated your update. I am surprised that the man-made rails are removed; the hike going to the village is once again difficult and challenging as before.

Yeah. Our tourist guide showed us the man made trail and it’s not passable at the moment. She said that they’re fixing it to be safer and easier for travellers.

Sounds great! Hope they can fix it immediately. Thank you for updating us AJ, we appreciate it. 👍🏼

Good info sir. My wife and I are coming from California. I think we might need to stay 2-3 days to take good photos of the whole town. I don’t need a tatoo just there to take photos. Salamat.

Good day Jong,

Sorry for the late reply, I just came from a short trip in the Mountain Province. The tattoo is optional, it is up to you if you will have it or not. I agree with your plan of staying in the village for 2-3 days, you will surely enjoy the scenery of the village and its simplistic lifestyle. Don’t forget to bring your camera though, I know you will capture a lot of good photos of the place.

Planning to go in Buscalan this July 2018, given the trekking needed is it fine or safe if we can bring a toddler 20 months old by then? Hope you’ll respond. Thank you!

Hello Erica!

Thank you for passing by in our blog. Base in my experience, I haven’t seen any travelers bringing their kids going to this place. The hike going to the village is physically challenging, and I think a 20-month old toddler will be stressed going to this place.

I have a reader who asked the same question last year; but in the end, they didn’t bring their children going to the village. They realized their decision was right when they saw the trail going to Buscalan.

The village is beautiful and picturesque, you’ll be amazed in their culture, tradition and way of life; but I think the long hours of travel going to Buscalan is not fit for kids.

Again, thank you for passing by in our blog Erica. Feel free to share this travel guide to your friends. 🙂

Have a safe and wonderful trip ahead!

Your blog is very helpful. I’m going to follow your guide. Is it safe to go to Apo whang Od on solo? I don’t have company in going there. Is your travel guide Oliver ok? Can he be trusted? Thank you.

Good morning Pam!

It’s possible to do a solo travel in Buscalan Village, Tinglayan, Kalinga. I saw a number of travelers, especially foreigners, who went solo for this trip. But I do recommend for you to have a companion in going in this place for safety purposes. If you don’t have any company going there, it’s also fine. You will love the beauty of the place, and it’s isolated from the modern life we usually live in. Always remember that safety is our priority in every trip we have.

With regards to the guide, Oliver is one of the popular and recommended tour guides in the village. He’s been doing it for 2-3 years now, and he caters both locals and foreigners. If I’m going back to Buscalan, I will choose Oliver and his cousin Bulut as my guide.

Hope you have a wonderful trip!

Hello…read and love your Buscalan adventure. Now me and my fiance want to try this adventure…question is…Is it possible to travel by car? Thank you

Hello, I am planning to get a tatoo in sept-nov 2018 and i would like you to provide me with a travel agency contact number that organize such tours. Thank you

Hi Coralie, from which country you’re coming?

Really enjoyed reading your blog about visiting Buscalan. What’s your recommendation in the event of wet weather? It looking like a dry ascent, but our return could get a bit wet. Should we continue with our plan, or reschedule to a dry time of year? Keep in mind, I’m traveling from half a world away.

Hi Blaine! I really like your shots, can you please share any techniques sa shooting while on a moving car? Bago lang po ako sa photography and would like to learn paano po kau nkakuha ng malinaw na shots.

and nga po pala wala ko DSLR and olympus pen model po ang gamit ko na camera, possible pa rin po ba na makakuha ako clear shots?

Hey Kristine, thank you for visiting my blog. The ideal technique in capturing your subject while you are inside a moving vehicle is to increase the shutter speed of your camera to prevent any blurry photographs. You can google it for further info 🙂

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BUSCALAN Trip: Getting a Tattoo from APO WHANG OD

Who would have thought that I’d get a tattoo? And it’s not just an ordinary tattoo, it’s from Apo Whang Od of Buscalan, Kalinga. The legendary Apo Whang Od.

If you happen to know me, I’m just a regular dude who loves traveling. I appreciate the art of tattoos but I’ve never imagined it on my skin. I was just okay with everything. Okay with no tattoos. Chill.

But everything changed since the pandemic. A lot of things happened that made me realize to enjoy life and take risks more. Don’t expect to change your life if you do the same thing over and over again, right? We should at least try something new once in a while to make us feel alive.

I’m with Apo Whang Od. 🙂

So when I had the chance to travel to Buscalan in Kalinga to meet Apo Whang Od and probably get a tattoo, I didn’t think twice.

Buscalan, Kalinga Experience

Our call time was 3 PM at Mcdonald’s in Dasmarinas, Cavite. I was there early so I just had a quick merienda . After 2 years, I’m happy to be back traveling again. This time it will be with a group of travelers from Cavite. I’ve been living in Cavite for more than 7 years but I realized that I don’t have that much friends here. Poor Jon. LOL! So this is also an opportunity to meet some new friends in the area.

We departed at 4 PM and embarked on a long land travel going to the North. We did a stopover at a gas station at NLEX to have some dinner. Then continued our journey to the Cordillera region. It was early in the morning when we arrived at the jump-off area in Buscalan. All visitors are required to register.

That’s the village. 🙂

The registration area.

From the jump-off area, you could already see the Buscalan’s butbut tribe, the small village where Apo Whang Od lives. You’d also have an idea of the long hike that you need to endure going there. We just rested for a while, met our guide, and started the hike.

It was tough. I don’t want to sugarcoat anything, but the hike was challenging. That’s coming from an overweight dude with minimal physical exercise during the pandemic. If you’re someone like me, I suggest you that your time. Don’t feel pressured that your companions are a lot faster. If you need to rest, take some rest. There’s only one trail and everyone will arrive at the village. You’ll just be a little late. Haha! but it doesn’t matter. The hiking reminded me of my adventures in Batad Ifugao, going to Tappiyah Falls. Lots and lots of concrete stairs in the mountain.

READ THE BLOG POST: Tappiyah Falls in Batad, Ifugao: A Grueling But Worthy Trek

Kapagod ah. LOL

The Village

You don’t have any idea of my relief by the time we reached the village. Finally, the grueling hike was over. There’s a small souvenir shop to welcome you once you arrive. It was a perfect time to chill after the trek. I was one of the slow hikers to arrive there. The group was almost complete.

After a quick break, it was time to go to our Transient house. One important tip by the time you arrive in the village is to go straight to Apo Whang Od’s place and register. There are many travelers who want to be inked by Apo, so there’s a queue for that. There was already a long list of groups registered there, so it was already the next day when we got the tattoo. So register first before going to your transient house.

The view from our guest house.

Where to stay in Buscalan

We then go straight to our Transient House. This is definitely the best transient house in Buscalan with stunning views of the mountains. This is GL’s Crib located at the farthest part of the village next to the rice fields. It has 4 rooms on the second floor perfect for groups and families. Our room was good for 4 people so I shared it with other fellow travelers and new friends.

While our breakfast was being prepared, we just relaxed in the common area on the second floor. The view was just breathtaking. It was a perfect chill moment after the tiring hike.

Then the food was served. We all enjoyed our breakfast with this stunning view. I enjoyed my stay at this transient house. They have everything you need from food and other necessities. Please understand that the price of some food and snacks is a little bit higher because they still have to transport the products to the mountains. Imagine that.

The bathroom was clean, complete with a heater. The cool weather and the relaxing nature helped a lot for a sound sleep.

The Tattoos

One thing that every traveler in Buscalan must know, is that Apo Whang Od is now only tattooing her signature 3-dot design. I think because of her age (105 years old) and health, she’s not doing those elaborate designs anymore. This is also to accommodate the huge number of people lining up to have her tattoos.

So, if you want to get those bigger and well-designed traditional tattoos, there are other artists who can do that for you, mostly Apo’s granddaughters too, and one of them is Emily Oggay. While some of the group opted for other tattoo artists, the five of us – Pepe, Kelly, Richard, Jason, and me – chose Emily. We waited for a few hours and it was already late afternoon when we had our tattoos. We enjoyed talking and laughing with Emily. She’s a terrific tattoo artist with a smiley, positive personality.

That’s Emily. Thanks Jason for the photo!

Emily with Pepe and Kelly.

I chose the ‘sun’ design. I just think that after all that we’ve gone through the pandemic, the sun will shine through as a symbol of hope and a new beginning. Naks!

Apo Whang Od’s Tattoos

The time has come. After our breakfast the next day, we packed our bags and we were ready to go. But not without the tattoo from Apo Whang Od. Remember that we registered the previous day and expected to get the tattoo the next day. Well, not without waiting and queuing for hours. Again.

After lunchtime, It was finally our group’s turn. We were 12 and one by one, we were finally inked by Apo. It was a little painful, but honestly, it was tolerable. Probably because I was expecting it to be too painful just like what I’ve read and heard in the past.

Here’s the video.

It was surreal, that the person that you usually read about is actually tattooing you for real. I just couldn’t help but look at Apo Whang Od’s face while she was inking my arms. I liked seeing her smile. It was like it was love at first sight. LOL! You know what I mean. At her age, she’s such a beauty with a vibrant personality.

After getting the tattoo, it was time to go back. It was kinda’ sad to leave this charming village. This has got to be one of the most relaxing places that I’ve been to in the Philippines. The experience was even more special because of Apo, and also the new friends that I met during this travel.

Nice meeting you, guys! Thanks to Khalid of Yabang Outdoor for the photo,

As I walked on the trails and rice terraces going back, I couldn’t help but reflect on the entire experience. I got a tattoo. Unbelievable. It’s from Apo Whang Od.

Then, a sense of fulfillment. It’s true that doing something new will always make you feel alive. After being stuck at home during the pandemic, I’ve felt alive again. A lot of things happened in the past months, but I’m okay, and I know that everything will be alright.

How to get to Buscalan

If you’re going to commute from Metro Manila going to Buscalan, here are some options.

Via Bontoc Coda Lines Terminal in Cubao has a daily 9 PM trip going to Bontoc, Mountain Province. Once you arrive in Bontoc, there are jeepneys going to Buscalan jump-off area.

Via Baguio If you happen to explore Baguio before going to Buscalan, you just have to ride a bus going to Bontoc, Mountain Province. In Bontoc, there are jeepneys that will take you to the Buscalan village jump-off area.

Via Tabuk, Kalinga Victory Liner in Cubao has a daily trip going to Tabuk, Kalinga. The travel time is about 11 to 12 hours. Once you arrive in Tabuk, there are jeepneys that will take you to Tinglayan. Tell the driver to drop you off near the Buscalan village tourism site or jump-off area.

Of course, you can also join some group tours. In my case, I joined Yabang Outdoor . I had fun and met some new friends. Highly recommended!

Che, Pepe, Kelly, Patrick and ako. Thanks Jason sa picture.

Buscalan Itinerary

Here’s an example of a 2D1N itinerary for your next Buscalan Trip.

Day 0 – 1 4 PM – Depart Metro Manila 5 AM – (next day) Arrive at the jump-off area in Buscalan 6 AM – Start the trek 7 AM – Arrive at the village 8:30 AM – Register at Apo Whang Od’s place. Expect a long queue, expect to have the tattoo either within the day or next day. 8 AM – Check in to your guest house and breakfast 9 AM – Chill time. (Free time) 12 NN – Lunch 1 PM – Time to have some tattoos. Apo’s granddaughters can do the tattoo for you. As I mentioned in this post, Apo Whang Od is only tattooing the 3-dot design. 5 PM – Free time. Relax at the guesthouse 7 PM – Dinner 9 PM – Lights out

Day 2 7 AM – Breakfast 8 AM – Picture taking at the rice terraces. Free time 12 NN – Lunch Time 1 PM – Time for Apo Whang Od’s Tattoo. This depends on the queue. If there are fewer people, you can have the tattoo before lunch, so be flexible. 2 PM – Time to trek back to the jump-off area. 3 PM – Arrive at the jump-off area. 3:30 PM – Travel back home 11:30 PM – Back at home

Buscalan Travel Tips

• For a more comfortable journey to Buscalan, there are many travel and tour operators that offer their service. In my case, I joined Yabang Outdoor which is based in Cavite. If you’re from Cavite, it’s much better to join this group. Rather than traveling to Manila before going to Buscalan.
• If you’re not that “fit” you know, be prepared mentally for the hike. Take your time, don’t rush. Don’t be pressured by your travel buddies who hike way faster. Rest if you need to.
• Once you arrive in Buscalan, go straight to Apo Whang Od’s place to register, to make sure you get your slots faster. In our case because of too many visitors, we were able to get the tattoo, the next day.
• Pack light. Okay? You don’t need to bring your entire wardrobe for an overnight stay. Remember, you’re going to hike in the mountains.
• Cell phone signal and data are so weak. Don’t expect that you’re going to have a real-time update with your followers and bashers. It can wait.
• We’re in the mountains. No ATM. Bring enough cash. Don’t you dare buy something in the village with your credit card. LOL!
• If you have a choice, go there on weekdays. It’s more relaxing and comfortable.
• Of course, always practice LNT – Leave no trace.

Buscalan Travel Guide 2024

Visiting Buscalan in Kalinga offers a rich cultural experience, especially if you’re interested in the traditional tattoo art of Apo Whang-Od. Here’s a guide to help you plan your trip:

Travel and Accommodation

• Transportation: The journey to Buscalan can be adventurous. The route from Tabuk City to Tinglayan is known for its perilous roads, absent of guard rails and with deep ravines. It takes about 4 hours to travel from Tabuk City to Tinglayan on a top load jeep, an experience that mixes fear and amazement.
• Accommodation: Buscalan offers basic homestay accommodations owned by locals. The cost for an overnight stay is around PHP 500 per person. Expect basic facilities and immerse yourself in the local way of living.
• Food: You can either pack canned goods or dine in local eateries, known as karenderyas , where a meal costs about PHP 100-150, including a viand, unlimited rice, and brewed coffee.

Activities and Attractions

• Tattoo Experience: Getting a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od or her successors, Grace and Elyang, is a highlight. The price ranges from PHP 300 up to thousands of pesos, depending on the size and design. Apo Whang-Od’s signature three-dot tattoo costs PHP 300.
• Exploring the Village: Take time to explore the village, visit the rice terraces, check out local wall paintings, and try the local brewed coffee. Engage in social activities with the locals, as there is no mobile reception or internet in the village.
• Nearby Attractions: Visit the Lubo and Mangali Rice Terraces, Palang-ah Falls, and experience Chico River white water rafting. The Chico River offers opportunities for swimming, kayaking, and tubing.
• Cultural Immersion: Engage with the local community and learn about their traditions. Visitors are encouraged to dress modestly and respect local norms.
• Cash: Bring enough cash as ATMs are located only in the city proper.
• Packing: Pack personal medicine, snacks, toiletries, and a reusable water bottle. Trail snacks and water are essential for the trek to the village.
• Respect Local Culture: Always respect the indigenous people and their culture. Photography is allowed but drone use is discouraged.
• Safety: Be cautious during the jeep rides and the hike to the village. The hike from the turning point to Buscalan Village takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes.

Budget Planning

• Include various expenses: Consider costs for transportation, accommodation, meals, tourist fees, guides, souvenirs, and emergency funds.

Visiting Buscalan is more than just a tourist trip; it’s an opportunity to immerse yourself in the unique culture and traditions of the Kalinga people. Prepare well to fully enjoy and respect this enriching experience​​​​​​​​​​.

Update Logs Travel: July 2022 Updated guide for 2024

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How much money did you bring with you? And what did you pack to the place?

Love the energy behind your blog here and I finally get to make my way up to the village to hopefully meet the legendary Whang Od next year. A dream ever since I’ve read about her for the first time over 5 years ago.

Sad to read, she’s only doing the three dot design from now on but well understandable of course.

Anyway, I wondered, which tour company you went with, perhaps you could help us out ?

Since it would suit us much much better to travel with similar or same schedule rather than leaving Manila at 8 or even 9pm.

Best Regards Paz

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Buscalan Village Tinglayan Kalinga Travel Guide (Itinerary + Tips)

Buscalan village is a distant village situated in the municipality of Tinglayan, Kalinga, Philippines. It is home to the Filipina national tattoo artist and living legend named Apo Whang-Od.

Before and after the pandemic both local and international tourists visit the Buscalan village in Kalinga province just to get inked by the last and oldest traditional hand-tap tattoo artist Apo Whang-Od. She is a part of the Kalinga Butbut tribe with rich culture in the lush Cordillera mountains and rice terraces. Apo Whang-Od was born on Feb. 17, 1917 and presently she is 107 years old.

In the past years, due to his old age Apo Whang-Od has successfully immortalized Kalinga Butbut tribe tattoo artistry and tradition by training twenty girls in the process of hand-tap tattooing. Today, these girls are considered the successor of Apo Whang-Od’s brilliant skills in traditional hand-tap tattooing. Moreover, because of Apo Whang-Od, it put Buscalan village and Kalinga province on the map in the past decade bringing numerous number of tourist every year. Despite the fact that Kalinga is one of the less-visited provinces in the Philippines, living legend Apo Whang-Od made it a tourist spot.

“Batok” is a Tagalog word that means hand-tapped tattoo. On the other hand, “mambabatok” is a Tagalog word which means person who practices the art of traditional hand-tap tattooing. Apo Whang-Od signature tattoo composed of three dots that represent herself and her blood-related successors. So if you want to have a traditional tattoo in your body then visiting Buscalan village should be on your top priority.

Name: Buscalan Village Location: Buscalan, Tinglayan, Kalinga Features: panoramic views of the Cordillera mountain range, rice terraces and rivers.

My trip to Buscalan Village

My friend named Missy invited me to join an organized trip going to Buscalan village. The event date is scheduled for January 15. Presently I have never been to the province of Kalinga so the following day I decided to join the trip hosted by Green Outdoor Tribe. I file a vacation leave in the office for two days and pack up my necessary things to bring prior to the event.

It was Monday evening around 9 pm when I arrived at our assembly place in Mcdonald’s Kia Theater Cubao, Quezon City. As we waited for the other group members to arrive, we ordered some food at Mcdo and have dinner. When everybody has already arrived at the assembly place, we go inside the private van and the van heads to our main destination which is Buscalan village.

Past 5:30 am when we arrived at Banaue, Ifugao. It was so cold there and we had a quick picture taking at the famous Banaue Rice Terraces. Past 6:45 am when we arrived at Bontoc, Mountain Province. For this reason, we have our breakfast at a small restaurant named Pines Kitchenette and Inn. Their food and quality service are so affordable at only 100 pesos. All I can say is wow, their breakfast food is super yummy and delicious. It makes me want to visit this restaurant again in the near future. After our breakfast, we roamed around Bontoc municipality and ordered some food for our lunch and dinner.

Afterward, our van left Bontoc and drive towards Buscalan village. The road going to Buscalan village is very scenic and unforgettable that I can’t close my eyes for a second because I want my brain to absorb and remember the stunning view of the Cordillera mountains, the greeny rice terraces and the pristine Chico River. On the other hand, the road trip is dangerous because of the high cliffside part and lots of twists and turns that make other members of the group vomit and become dizzy. The long road is definitely not for the faint-hearted.

Nevertheless, we arrived at the Buscalan village jump-off point around 8 am. We got out of the van and we saw several foreigners from the United States. For this reason, I take pictures of them as a remembrance of how popular this place is among the foreigners and locals. Our group have a short walk and we started taking pictures of the beautiful village and the surrounding mountain.

At 8:30 am our group registered and secured our local guide. After that, we start the trek going to the village. The first part is we walk for a few meters on flat ground and then we descend a 500-meter pathway. Although the descent is not very steep the trail is slippery, so we need to be very cautious. After descending, the trail becomes flat and later becomes a continuous assault on the mountain slope. As a result, our group takes several stops along the trail. We drink our bottled water inside the bag and rest for seven minutes.

Afterward, we continued the hike going to Buscalan village. As I go up I have a short talk with our local guide regarding the trail we walk on. According to the local guide, before the concrete stairs and path walk was made the hike to the village takes a minimum of two hours. So our group is lucky because the hiking experience is a little easier and safer compared to several years ago. In fact, we reached the village after only fifty minutes of hiking.

We take a quick rest at the small house and after that, we go to our homestay which is located on the second floor. Then we leave our bags at the house and we explore the village. A few moments later, I realized that Buscalan village is more than just a tattoo enthusiasts’ destination, it’s an interesting tribal community with rich culture tucked in the lush Cordillera mountains and rice terraces. On the other hand, I noticed that there are no restaurants in the village, only a few local stores and souvenir shops selling Buscalan shirts, coffee, and bag tags.

We continue to roam the village and we spotted Apo Whang-Od’s house. We snapped photos of the house and we saw a small lovely dog named Luna. After that our local guide directed us to Apo Whang-Od and I finally see the legendary tattoo artist who made Kalinga province a tourist destination. Even though she was old already, she looks strong and fair. Some of the group members have a tattoo session with him and some just take pictures of him. After the tattoo session is done, we have our group picture along with national artist Apo Whang-Od.

At 12:20 pm, we returned to our rented homestay and we had our lunch. After our group lunch, we relax for a little time and prepared for our second tattoo session with the grandnieces and successors of legendary Apo Whang-Od. It was 1:45 pm when the second tattoo session started. I noticed that the needle is made of a pomelo thorn and there are a lot of traditional and meaningful designs to choose from. A small and simple design costs 300 pesos.

While waiting for other to finish their tattoo session, we sip a freshly brewed Buscalan coffee which is so mouthwatering. Then Gina (one of the group member) told us this is her first time to get inked and he has low pain tolerance when it comes to the needle. Nevertheless there’s no turning back and she finished the tattoo session in forty-five minutes. Meanwhile other group members have a compass tattoo design in their body.

According to the locals there, it was more than a decade ago when Apo Whang-Od had trained her bloodline successor named Grace Palicas and Elyang Wigan to continue her people’s tattoo artistry and tradition. Apart from this, Apo Whang-Od also trained eighteen young girls to immortalize the Butbut tribe’s craft and tradition. Presently these girls are the emerging tattoo young artists of Buscalan village. We finish our tattoo session with the grandnieces of Apo Whang-Od at 4:20 pm. Finally we got inked in Buscalan village.

Then we prepare and cooked our dinner. It was 6 pm when we have our dinner with unlimited rice and almost fully loaded dishes. After done eating, we have our socializing time. We drink some beer, gin and emperador and we share some thoughts about the tattoo session. One member said that she found this more painful than her dog tattoo. Moreover we talk about our current work and life inside the busy city of Metro Manila. We were laughing and joking while sharing different perspectives and thoughts. Past 10 pm when we go to our room and have a goodnight sleep.

We woke up around 5 am in the morning and we have our breakfast at 6:25 am. We drink the free brewed coffee of Buscalan and after that we roam the village. Our group take lots of pictures of the remote village and we even give donations to the locals there. We wash up around 9:15 am and we check out at 10:10 am. Our group bid farewell to the locals and we started to descend all the way back to the main road where our driver was waiting for us. After twenty-eight minutes of descending we finally reached the main road and the van left Buscalan village at 10:56 am.

The van headed to our side trip destination and we arrived at Sagada, Mountain Province past 12:30 pm. We take our lunch there and we satisfy our meat cravings. Then we explored Sagada famous tourist spot like Blue Soil Hills, Sugong Hanging Coffins, Echo Valley and the Church of Saint Mary the Virgin. After exploring the beautiful town of Sagada, the driver of the van take us to Baguio City where we buy souvenirs and strawberry jam. Around 5:25 pm when our van left Baguio City and I saw one of the most beautiful sunsets of my life.

Three hours later we had our dinner at Leeza’s Restaurant in Sison, Pangasinan. It was 12:45 am when we arrived in Metro Manila. We bid goodbye to each other and I came home past 2 am. Thanks be to God for guiding us and keeping us safe all the way. It was an unfogerttable experience to meet and greet the living legend Apo Whang-Od. Also another bucket list was unlocked. I will truly miss the scenery, the cold weather and the brewed coffee of Buscalan village. All in all the long trip is all worth it.

Sample 2-Day itinerary to Buscalan Village (by private vehicle)

Day 0 8:30PM – Meetup at Mcdonald’s Kia Theater Cubao, Quezon City 9:30PM – ETD going to Buscalan village

Day 1 5:30AM – ETA Banaue Rice Terraces 6:30AM – ETA Bontoc, Mountain Province, breakfast and buy food 7AM – Departure going to Buscalan village 8AM – Arrival at Buscalan, register, secure guide and start trek 9AM – Buscalan Village, go to homestay and relax 10:30AM – Meet and greet Apo Whang-Od, picture taking and tattoo session 1PM – Lunch 2PM – Explore the village and another tattoo session 5:30PM – Dinner and socials 9PM – Lights off

Day 2 5AM – Wake up call, breakfast 6:15AM – See the sunrise, photo-ops 8AM – Tidy-up and pack up 9AM – Start descent 10AM – Back at the jump-off point 10:30AM – Departure going to the sidetrip (Sagada) 12PM – Lunch time 1PM – Open time, explore Sagada 5PM – Arrival at Baguio City, buy souvenirs 5:45PM – ETD to Manila

Disclaimer: the above itinerary may change depending on the situation like weather conditions and participants pacing.

Things to bring on your visit to Buscalan Village:

Water and tumbler Snacks First Aid Kit Pocket money Extra set of clothes Jacket Alcohol Hiking sandals Valid ID and vaccination card Camera and powerbank Personal medications Scarf, cap, umbrella Toiletries like bath soap, toothbrush and small towel Plastic bag for your trash Waterproofing for gadgets if rainy season Sunblock (optional)

How to Go to Buscalan Village

By commuting from Metro Manila

• From Victory Liner bus station in Quezon City, ride a deluxe bus bound to Tabuk, Kalinga. The travel time is almost eleven hours.
• Then from Tabuk city ride a jeep going to the municipality of Tinglayan and drop off at the junction near the Buscalan village jump-off point.
• From Coda Lines Terminal in Cubao, Quezon City, ride a bus going to the municipality of Bontoc in Mountain Province. 
• From Bontoc municipality, ride a jeep bound to Buscalan village jump-off point or tourism site. 

Note: The daily trip schedule of the Coda Line bus bound to Bontoc municipality is 9 pm.

By commuting from Bontoc, Mountain Province

• From Bontoc, there’s a tricycle terminal near Cable Cafe & Restaurant in Poblacion, Bontoc. One of the tricycle drivers is Jayson. You can contact Jayson from this cellphone number 0930-307-6300. The tricycle fare range from 1500 to 2000 pesos and it’s good for a day tour roundtrip from Bontoc to Kalinga and vice versa. If overnight the tricycle fare range from 2500-3000 pesos. 
• Then from Buscalan turning point trek for thirty minutes or more going to the house of Apo Whang Od.
• Ride a jeepney from Bontoc going to Bugnay. The travel time is one hour and the jeepney fare is around 200 pesos. But please take note that you need to wait for a long time maybe one hour or more to make the jeepney full and started going to Bugnay. (but it all depends)
• From Bugnay ride a motorcycle going to Buscalan. The motorcycle fare is 150 pesos.

By commuting from Baguio City

• From Baguio City, ride a bus going to Bontoc, Mountain Province.
• Then from Bontoc municipality ride a jeep or bus going to Tabuk, Kalinga and drop off at the village of Bugnay. The approximate travel time is one hour and thirty minutes.
• From Bugnay village, ride a jeep or motorcycle going to the municipality of Tinglayan and alight at Buscalan Village jump-off point.

Reminders and Tips:

• I highly advised you to join an organized trip for only 3500 pesos or less per head going to Buscalan village for a hassle-free trip and accommodation. The inclusion in the Buscalan organized tour for 2 days and 1 night is roundtrip private van transportation (Manila-Kalinga-Manila), homestay, two hosted meal (lunch and dinner), registration fee, tourism fee, local guide fee, toll fee, drivers fee, parking fee, unlimited brewed coffee, and bag tag. Meanwhile, the exclusion is all things not mentioned above like tattoo sessions, personal food and restroom fees.
• At the jump-off point or the tourism office, you will be asked to fill out an individual registration form and have to show your vaccination card and a valid ID. Also, you are required to register your group and your time of arrival so you can get your local guide and appointment slot with Apo Whang-Od. Please take note that all tourists are required to get a local guide per group and your guide will be the one to book your slot with Apo Whang-Od. The tattooing schedule is on a first-come-first-served basis.
• Make sure to pack light only and get yourself a porter for hire if you have so many things to bring up in Buscalan village. 
• Standard health protocols should be properly observed at all times.
• It is important to follow the Leave No Trace (LNT) principles at all times to make sure the place you’re visiting is clean and good.
• Bring trekking sandals that are thick and have a strap. Personally, I prefer the Sandugo brand because it is durable.
• Cellphone signal in Buscalan village is so weak and there is no Automated teller machine (ATM) so bring sufficient cash and pocket money before the trip. Also, take note that the nearest ATM machines can be found in Bontoc municipality.
• For the Buscalan tattoo homestay kindly call or message Gaspar B. Laguinday (Gaspar Laguinday homestay). Mobile number is 09994805012 and 09067368404. 
• The price for a homestay are ranging from 200 to 400 pesos per night and per head. Inclusive of unlimited rice and Kalinga brewed coffee.
• Your host or tour organizer can cook food for an additional fee. However, if you’re on a tight budget better bring your own food and cook there.
• There is no guarantee that you’ll meet Apo Whang-Od on your first day since your group turn will depend on your timestamp order or time of arrival at the tourism office in Buscalan village.
• The price of each tattoo varies depending on the size, details, and design. The price ranges from 300 pesos up to 2000 pesos. The sun and moon design is 500 pesos and above depending on the size of the tattoo.
• You can only get an Apo Whang-Od’s signature tattoo after getting a traditional tattoo from any of their artists. However, there are some days when Apo Whang-Od is down for some tattoo session.
• Please remember that aside from Apo Whang-Od, Grace and Elyang her successors are allowed to ink the meaningful three-dot signature tattoo.
• As of today, Buscalan village is open for all local and foreign visitors.
• Last but not least, I highly advise you to visit Buscalan village on weekdays because it’s not crowded there. Our group went there on weekdays (Tuesday and Wednesday) so we had a greater opportunity to meet and greet Apo Whang-Od (the last traditional tattoo artist of Kalinga).

Notable fees in Buscalan Village:

• The guide fee is 1000 pesos per day for a group of 5 people.
• The registration fee is 75 pesos per person.
• Photo session with Apo Whang-Od is 50 pesos per head.
• Pambatok stick made of bamboo and citrus thorn is 100 pesos per piece.
• The support stick is 20 pesos per piece.
• The signature tattoo of Apo Whang-Od (three dots) is 100 pesos.
• The dog tattoo is 300 pesos.
• Ref magnet is 50 pesos each.

I took the one less traveled by and that has made all the difference. It was not the place nor the view that made it so special, it was the people we met along the way. Overall, I hope this Buscalan village travel guide has been helpful to you and inspired you to try visiting the village and meet Apo Whang-Od. Moreover, don’t forget to share this with your friends, groups and colleagues if ever you plan travelling to Buscalan village in Kalinga. God bless you in all your future travels. Thanks for reading.

jervisergino

Hi. I’m Jervis, a nature lover. This blog is dedicated to helping people know more about the best hiking and tourist destinations in the Philippines.

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Meet the 106-Year-Old Woman Keeping an Ancient Filipino Tattooing Tradition Alive

By Audrey Carpio

Photography by Artu Nepomuceno

We may earn a commission if you buy something from any affiliate links on our site.

The remote village of Buscalan, home of the famed last mambabatok of her generation, has never been this accessible. Sure, you still need to endure the 12 hour-body-numbing drive from Manila with its city gridlock to the winding mountain roads of the Cordilleras , swerving around landslide debris and oncoming trucks in dangerously foggy conditions. But the dirt path from the turnoff in the municipality of Tinglayan, Kalinga—clearly marked by a sign that proclaims Welcome! Whang-Od Buscalan Tattoo Village —is now paved over, reducing hike time by over an hour. What’s left is a strenuous climb through the rice terraces that a reasonably fit person can conquer in 40 minutes.  

Modern conveniences haven’t completely transformed Buscalan , yet. There is still no cell signal, and only a scant number of residents have WiFi. But steel has long replaced the traditional cogon roofing of the homes, and wooden huts have made way for crowded, concrete structures.

The woman who has been around to witness all these changes is also the one largely responsible for them. Apo Whang-Od, the sprightly centenarian also known as Maria Oggay, has been hand-tapping tattoos on skin since she was a teenager. It was only within the last 15 years or so that her clientele—and her renown–exploded beyond the Cordillera region, with thousands of visitors coming from all over the world, all seeking the exquisite pain of the soot-stained thorn.

 According to lore and to interviews conducted by tattoo anthropologist Dr. Lars Krutak, Whang- Od was 16 when she began her career as a tattooist under her father’s mentorship. The first and only female mambabatok of her time, Whang-Od would travel to far and neighboring villages, summoned by host communities to imprint the sacred symbols of their ancestors on individuals who have crossed or about to cross a threshold in their lives. 

For men, this meant being minted as a headhunting warrior. A bikking , a chest tattoo with patterns that crawled up the shoulders and down the arms, could take days to finish and would cost a large pig or several kilos of rice. Women were tattooed for different reasons, primarily for fertility and beautification. The tattooed elder women of Kalinga often say that when they die, they can’t take their beads and gold with them to the afterlife . They only have the markings on their body. 

Whang-Od has tattooed more women than warriors, as headhunting was banned by the Americans in the early 1900s. The image of the Kalingas as bloodthirsty savages was perpetrated by the colonial ethnologic photographer Dean Worcester, who in 1912 published photographs of Cordilleran tribes in National Geographic , describing them as both exotic and terrifying in an attempt to justify American control of Northern Luzon, or what he called “No Man’s Land.” But reality was more nuanced. Headhunting, as practiced, was a part of ritual warfare that had spiritual implications. Cultural tattoo practitioner Lane Wilcken explains in the book Filipino Tattoos: Ancient to Modern (2010) that headhunting functioned to restore the balance and justice between communities in conflict. The marking of the warrior was thus a ceremonial and sacred activity, done in several stages over almost two years.

In those days, unmarked women were considered imperfect, undesirable. One of the most enduring ullalim , a form of epic poetry that is chanted by the village bard, is the story of the warrior hero Banna who falls in love with the beautiful Lagunnawa. In the pre-colonial tale, their tattooed bodies are celebrated as badges of honor, wealth, beauty, and bravery. 

When the American Catholic missionaries came and built schools in Kalinga, village girls were made to cover their arms with long sleeves. Being tattooed became a point of shame when women ventured to the city, and eventually fewer girls from the succeeding generation continued the tradition as Western concepts of beauty and respectability began to permeate the culture. 

By Christian Allaire

By Veronica Cristino

By Hannah Coates

“Traditional tattooing is seen as archaic and painful by the younger generations of the tribe,” wrote Kalinga elder and former NCIP official Natividad Sugguiyao in the intro to photographer Jake Verzosa’s The Last Tattooed Women of Kalinga (2014). “Though the practice has completely ceased, it remains vital that it should never be forgotten.”

The practice may have died out among the Kalinga, but outside forces have again exerted their influence, this time in helping revive the practice of batok and transforming it into something of a hybrid artform. In 2007, Dr. Lars Krutak spent two weeks in Buscalan filming the Philippine segment of his Discovery Channel series Tattoo Hunter . There he met Whang-Od, who was nearly 90 at the time and still working the rice fields every day. 

Mambabatok can only pass on their craft within their bloodlines, and Whang-Od never had any children of her own. Grace Palicas, her 10-year-old grandniece, was chosen to be her apprentice, though initially a reluctant one. 

“I was the first child to learn how to tattoo. I just observed what she did,” Grace, now 26, tells us. “When I left for college in 2015, Elyang was next to learn so that she could help Apo when so many tourists were coming.” 

We are at Grace’s house, where she and her 23-year-old cousin Elyang Wigan have been tapping ink into the limbs of a handful of visitors who arrived in Buscalan that morning. Afterward, the newly inked will walk a few houses down to where Whang-Od holds court to get her signature three-dot signoff, the only tattoo she does nowadays. Getting the dots, which takes all of five minutes to complete, has been described as more painful than the larger pieces done by the lighter hands of Whang-Od’s protégés. But what is pain, or the risk of a small infection, when you’ve made it all the way here to see the living legend in the flesh?

We find Whang-Od by her house, sitting on a low footstool on the dirt floor, preparing her tools to dot a client on his arm. She is dressed in her usual “accidental hipster grandma” style, wearing a puffy bomber over track pants and a paisley bandana around her forehead. The outer walls of Oggay’s home are covered with tour group-sponsored tarps of her likeness, a reminder of the transactional, touristy nature of this exchange. We are, after all, neither warriors nor Butbut maidens ready for marriage. It is an honor for outsiders like us to be given these sacred markings, one we do not deserve.

When she finishes with the client, it is the Vogue team’s turn to get tatted. First is Sela Gonzales, the photographer’s assistant and the only one of us who could communicate with her in Ilocano (Whang-Od doesn’t speak Tagalog or English). An aide procures an unused gisi , a bamboo stick with a thorn attached to one end, while Whang-Od traces the pattern on Sela’s arm using a length of grass dipped in the soot and charcoal mixture. Holding the inked gisi in her left hand, she uses a larger stick to whack it with her right hand, driving it over a hundred times per minute into the flesh until the three dots are filled and oozing with blood and ink. She dabs at them with a wet wipe before deciding to go over the freshly wounded spots again for good measure. Aray .

“When visitors come from far away,” Whang Od says in the Butbut language, “I will give them the tatak Buscalan, tatak Kalinga for as long as my eyes can see.”

In the fall of 2022, Grace spent several weeks in France, where her husband is from, and where she was invited as a guest tattoo artist at a few different tattoo studios. Grace is the first Buscalan native to bring batok to the West. Her clean, symmetrical black lines are impressive; patterns of scorpions, centipedes, snakes, and rice bundles come together to form a large tapestry running down the length of an arm or leg. One of her clients, a hand poke tattoo artist from Brooklyn, commented on Instagram that it was truly her most meaningful tattoo experience. A Philippine indigenous practice that was on the verge of being lost to history is being inscribed on new skin. The stories of the Butbut people and their beliefs will continue to be passed along through the vector of a thorn, plucked from a tree grown in Kalinga soil.

Traditionally, ceremonial rituals accompanied the tattooing, and they ranged from the chanting of an ullalim or the sacrificing of a chicken. These days, the performance of rituals is altogether left out of the tattoo session, although Grace says that they can be done if requested, especially upon the completion of a large, multi-day tattoo. For non-natives, the tattoos are pretty much divorced from their ancestral context, chosen from the same limited menu of designs offered to everyone. In the end, we assign our own meanings to them, reading the symbols through the lens of an individual and not the community.

I was relatively uninformed when I got my first Kalinga tattoo a year before. If you asked one of the mambabatok there what a particular design meant, you’d get a vague answer that was some combination of “guidance, strength, and protection.” I had chosen the crab/traveler partly because I associated it with my family and partly because I had read somewhere that it was one of the original Kalinga patterns, compared to the sun/moon motifs, which were new-generation designs by Whang-Od and Grace. Later I learned that the crab design with its pincers/fishhooks is associated with the Filipino deity Lumauig. A few scholars have noted that Lumauig bears a striking resemblance to the Polynesian trickster Maui. As you probably know, Maui possesses a magical fishhook. I regarded my tattoo with a new appreciation of the deep intertextual history behind its simple lines.

Emily Oggay, a relative of Apo, tattooed the crab on my thigh. It was virtually painless. She joked that her taps are like tik-tik-tik while Apo’s taps are TOK-TOK-TOK , miming a heavy hammer. Like Grace and Elyang, she is part of the new generation of mambabatok —and there are surprisingly many, mostly girls and women. I counted at least 18 Gen Zers who had picked up the craft through observation and practicing on themselves and each other. Many of them started in 2018 after seeing the tourism boom and the long lines of travelers waiting all day for a session with Apo. At its peak, Buscalan hosted over 400 visitors a day. Tour groups by the van loads were hauled to the mountain, some guaranteeing a meeting with Whang-Od, like she was a whale shark to be sighted. Homestays were crammed to the brim, with strangers sleeping shoulder-to-shoulder on the floor. Even if Whang-Od were to perform the full ritual for all her visitors, there wouldn’t be enough chickens to sacrifice.  

“Before, farming was our livelihood. We would only eat kamote . You can see how tourism changed Buscalan when visitors started coming,” Grace says, translating what Apo was saying. She describes how they started to eat a variety of food, and how locals took new jobs as tour guides and homestay operators. “We also learned how to speak English and Tagalog because of the visitors.” 

This all came to a grinding halt during the pandemic when Buscalan was completely closed to visitors for two years. Villagers had no choice but to return to farming. Grace adds that “it was also good because we were able to rest a bit.” But when I first went up in July 2021, Whang-Od was not at home resting. She had absconded to the village in the neighboring mountain where restrictions were laxer. She wanted to keep tattooing. 

I had found Whang-Od, gangster as ever, hanging out by a giant golden statue of herself, under whose outstretched arms and bare breasts I received my three dots.

Jake Verzosa recalls the time he first got a tattoo from Whang-Od. The year was 2009, and he paid for his markings in brown sugar and posporo . “When Whang-Od started getting tired after tattooing for a few hours, Grace would take over,” he tells me. Indeed, the cuff on his arm starts off a bit crooked. Grace would have been 13 at the time, but “her lines were very clean.” Growing up in Tuguegarao, Jake would see the tattooed elders near his school and would often hear stories about Buscalan. It was not an easy trek to make, and at the time it was mostly foreigners who happened upon the village. Jake would spend three years completing his portrait series of the women elders of Kalinga. His iconic black-and white image of Whang-Od, which has been exhibited all over the world, can be found in various permutations all over Buscalan.

Whang-Od’s face is also plastered on all kinds of merch from t-shirts to coffee packaging, and that’s just in Buscalan. I don’t know if it’s because of her guilelessness and genuine desire to share her culture, but she has been at the center of several incidents that have been called out as exploitative, with a few requiring the National Commission on Indigenous Peoples to step in as the gatekeepers of indigenous intellectual property rights. 

At a webinar that discussed these issues, social anthropologist Dr. Analyn Salvador-Amores noted that what was once a place-based ritual has been transformed into a commercialized practice. “Culture is an increasingly prized commodity, aggressively appropriated by other entities,” she said. “Instead of asking who owns culture, we should ask how we can promote respectful treatment of native culture and indigenous forms of self-expression within mass societies.”

Whang-Od, who turned 106 in February, is the oldest living mambabatok but certainly not the last. The three dots representing Apo, Grace, and Elyang are also ellipses, signifying an open-endedness and a continuation that extends beyond its origins. In the US, practitioners like Lane Wilcken and Natalia Roxas advocate for the ceremonial tradition of batok , and they have helped and healed many Filipino Americans seeking to connect with their heritage by wearing the symbols of their ancestors. Elsewhere in the Philippines, Bukidnon tattoo practitioner Piper Abas is reviving the art of traditional Visayan and Mindanao tattooing, or patik . More Filipinos choosing to get an indigenous tattoo, one that carries with it a long history, can be seen as a step toward decolonizing aesthetics, reclaiming our bodies, and reconnecting with our roots, our selves. 

Culture survives through representation, not appropriation. The crab on my leg, like the freshly pricked trifecta of tattoos by the OG and her two main disciples on photographer Artu Nepomuceno’s arm, may not be the inheritance from our own blood ancestors. But we are now indelibly inked and linked to the last Philippine tribe that has managed to hold on to its tattooing heritage amid colonial erasure in the rest of the archipelago. And we carry these markings with us forward into the world, allowing ourselves the gifts of guidance, strength, and protection that we didn’t realize we needed.

Producer: Anz Hizon. Production Assistants: Jojo Abrigo, Marga Magalong, Renee De Guzman. Photographer’s Assistants: Aaron Carlos, Choi Narciso, Sela Gonzales. Special thanks to the National Commission on Indigenous Peoples.

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Scenic 3-Day Sagada and Buscalan Apo Whang-Od Tattoo Village Package from Manila with Homestay

Description

Explore some of the natural gems of North Luzon when you book this 3-day Sagada and Buscalan tour package. This package is perfect for those visiting the two destinations for the first time as it already comes with roundtrip transportation from and to Manila, homestay accommodations in Buscalan and Sagada, tours in both destinations, a coordinator, and select meals.

You will begin your tour package to Sagada and Buscalan from Manila the night before you arrive at your first destination. You will be picked up in Manila at 7 PM and then make your way to Banaue. On day 1, you’ll reach Banaue at around 5 AM.

You’ll then head to Banaue Arch. Here, you won’t only find the famous arch welcoming travelers to Banaue, but you can also shop for souvenirs and buy breakfast (at your own expense) at the nearby stalls. You’ll then head to the Banaue Rice Terraces Viewdeck and take in the stunning sights of this attraction before continuing your tour of Banaue. You will then check in at your accommodations in Buscalan, where you’ll have lunch and dinner.

On day 2, you’ll enjoy your breakfast at your homestay and then head to Sagada. While in Sagada, you will also stay at a homestay. During your stay, you will tour some of the top attractions here, including Bomod-Ok Falls and the Hanging Coffins.

The last day on this tour package is day 3, and before leaving for Manila, you will be able to explore more of Sagada and visit sites, including Marlboro Hills, Blue Soil Hills, and Sumaguing Cave. You’ll also pass by Baguio for some shopping and have dinner (at your own expense) on the way back to Manila. 

Visit Buscalan and Sagada and see some of their most popular tourist sites when you book this 3-day, 2-night tour package. Check the availability by choosing a date.

Attractions

Daily itinerary

Day 1 - Day 1: Arrival in Banaue + Check-in at Buscalan + Tour

The night before day 1, you will be traveling from Manila to Banaue. Expect to be picked up at around 7 PM. Your expected arrival time in Banaue is 5 AM. When you arrive in Banaue, you’ll begin your tour with visits to the Banaue Arch, the Banaue Rice Terraces Viewdeck, Tinglayan Kalinga, and Buscalan Village before checking in at your homestay.

You’ll then enjoy lunch, and afterward, you have free time. You can explore Buscalan Village some more or get a tattoo, but your itinerary is up to you. Just remember to come back to the homestay in time for your dinner.

Day 2 - Day 2: Arrival Sagada + Check-in + Tour

Enjoy your breakfast at the homestay. If you haven’t yet, you can also squeeze in a tattoo session before you checkout and head to Sagada.

Check in to your accommodations and then have lunch (at your own expense). Once you’ve had your fill, you’ll visit Bomod-Ok Falls, Echo Valley, the Hanging Coffins, St. Mary’s Church, Sagada Weaving, the Abandoned Bus, Sagada Pottery, and Gaia Cafe. 

At night, you’ll have free time to explore on your own.

Day 3 - Day 3. Tour + Checkout + Departure

On the last day of your tour package, wake up early to catch Sagada’s famous sea of clouds. After breakfast (at your own expense), you’ll visit Marlboro Hills, Blue Soil Hills, and Sumaguing Cave. 

You will then return to your accommodations to checkout, and then you will continue exploring and visit Northern Blossom Flower Farm and The Highest Point, which is the highest portion of the country’s highway system.

Before heading back to Manila, you will pass by Baguio to visit the Strawberry Farm and shop for souvenirs. You’ll have dinner (at your own expense) at some point on the way to Manila. 

What to bring

Good to know.

Tour Information: This private tour is available daily.

Meet-up Information: Guide to the Philippines will send tour reminders at least (1) day before the tour date through your registered email address. Make sure to have the electronic copy of your confirmed tour voucher ready. On the day of the tour, your assigned Tour Guide will meet you within Manila at least thirty (30) minutes prior to start of the tour. Strictly no latecomers or tour reservation might be forfeited. To arrange for a private hotel pick-up and drop-off, please email [email protected]. Additional transportation fees apply.

Tour Proper: Please be reminded also to dress appropriately. Be mindful of your personal belongings during the tour.

Children Friendly: Yes!

Pet Friendly: No. Please understand that the establishment does not allow pets inside.

Senior Citizen/PWD Friendly: Yes. However, please be advised that this tour includes mostly walking tours and may not be suitable for PWDs or individuals with existing cardiovascular ailments.

Cancellation Policy: The operator may cancel the activity in case of force majeure or unforeseen circumstances like weather conditions. In this case, you will be given the option to reschedule or request a full refund. Schedule cancellation requests must be made 48 hours before your original subject to approval. No shows are not entitled to reschedule and refund.

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Apo Whang-Od, the Signature Tattoo and the unforgettable trip to Buscalan

I am an art enthusiast (from sketching, painting, drawing, photography, anything that my hands can do), the reason why I admired and appreciated Apo Whang-Od , the woman of ingenuity. She caught my heart that is why when I was invited by Cy (my favorite travel buddy) to visit her place, in a flash, I said Yes! After all, I waited for years to meet her and set foot to tattoo village in Buscalan as well.

where I conquered Buscalan

With our colleague, Pauline, we joined a group tour headed by Hency of Backla travel and tours for a fee of  Php3,000.

This includes:

• 2-day and 1-night stay in a homestay
• van transportation
• 3 hosted meals (lunch, dinner and breakfast)
• unli Buscalan coffee
• swimming to waterfalls
• costume pictorial
• side trip to Baguio

Meet-up place: McDonald’s Eton Centris, Quezon Ave., Quezon City  Meet-up time: 9:00 pm

this little boy is so fond of having pictures with visitors…see his smile?

Trivia about Apo Whang-od

Apo Whang-od  also known as  Maria Oggay is the country’s oldest mambabatok (traditional tattooist) of the Butbut tribe in Buscalan, Kalinga. She is using a mixture of charcoal and water that will be tapped (batok) into the skin through a thorn (siit) of a calamansi or pomelo attached to a small bamboo. As of now, the 103-year old lady is no longer doing the regular tattoo design due to her health condition.

Apo Whang-od in person

However, do not worry. Upon your visit, you can have a candid picture with her and the signature tattoo which is composed of three dots. This represents herself and her two successors who will continue the tradition for her and their people.

me and Cy, my favorite travel buddy in the rice field

We head off at around 9:22 pm. By 4:00 am, we arrived in Banaue and had a hearty breakfast of red rice, hotdog, and egg complemented with 3-in-1 coffee at Garden Snack Hauz and Restaurant. When the sun had risen, we had group photo ops with the wonderful backdrop of the iconic rice terraces. It felt surreal to see in person this view, which I only saw in my Social Studies book when I was in my high school days.

me and the wonderful view of the historic rice paddies

my yummy breakfast

I tried the iconic wooden scooter for a fee of Php10. It was a challenge to drive this vehicle as I rolled down fast the highway. It was fun! Haha! A race of wooden scooters is one of the activities being held during Imbayah Festival .

The trip to Buscalan

The journey continues. The view was getting ecstatic. We passed by rolling hills, rice paddies, deep gorges, farmers, and children playing near their houses. Not to mention the one-way road perched beside a deep ravine! Indeed, it was a joyful ride but then, I felt dizzy as we set out to the sinuous road. The same thing happened to me when I went to Mt. Pulag. Thanks to one of our co-joiners who offered me a bonamine. For little later, I felt better.

two groups from different professions and passions

We reached the jump-off point in Buscalan by 11:30 am (a four-hour trip from Benguet). We had a brief orientation from our organizer and later we traversed the jungle-like trail headed by four trail guides. The trail is a combination of downhill and steep uphill but paved. It took us about thirty minutes in getting to our destination because of several stops. I understand the slow pace because not all joiners were trekkers.

Cy, Me and Pau having a great time!

Buscalan has no internet connection, no network, only a Smart connection. So be ready to get disconnected!

the jump-off point in Buscalan will take twenty to thirty minutes in getting to the village… this is the shortest and fastest route

We rested a bit upon reaching Selma’s Homestay . I was expecting that Buscalan is as cold as Baguio, but it was not. There is no electric fan inside but the weather is tolerable.  The homestay has two bathrooms only. The downside in joining group tours (we are two groups anyway) is waiting for our turns, which sometimes take a bit longer. On the brighter side, it was fun meeting new friends and hearing their stories.

where we sleep for the night

Our lunch consists of plain rice and chicken adobo. Amidst the afternoon heat and out of curiosity, everyone tasted the brewing coffee, which smells so good. I was not a fan of coffee, but its aroma and its taste, this Buscalan kapeng barako was deliciously great!

the unli coffee and the mesmerizing view

Plans for tattoo

Pau and I decided on the signature tattoo only. Unfortunately, we were told that Apo Whang-Od was sick and is available only for picture taking. We were offered by other artists but I refused. If it is not Apo Whang-od, I rather have no signature because the tattoo experience is not complete if it is not through the hands of the genuine artist. Cy has no plan, she was after the trip only.

choose your design

To suppress my sadness, I bought the iconic “torn”, as my souvenir of Apo Whang-Od.

the “torn”

We learned that Grace and Elyang, the grandnieces of Apo Whang-Od who was said to be her successors were not in the area as of that time. The former had given birth to her child while the latter was in another location. However, there is no problem with that as there were about hundreds of tattoo artists now in the community who were trained by the master who can do the job for tattoo enthusiasts.

have to stop a while to feast on the grandeur of nature and its tranquility

Apo Whang-Od in person

By 3:00 pm we came to meet Apo Whang-Od in person for picture taking. Excited and full of anticipation. Believe it or not, I was starstruck! Her arms are covered with a tattoo, a ladder, and a python. But she wasn’t smiling like the ones I saw on the net. Her eyes were drooping, an indication that she was sick.

it was an honor to meet the tattoo master

When it was my turn, I savored the moment watching her face. Every line in it, every tattoo in her arms tells the exciting story of her life. She smiled a bit when Cy told us to smile. I was so grateful to have a photo with the greatest artist and famous tattoo master.

we were told these houses were painted by foreign guests as an appreciation for the villagers and the tattoo as well

The Afternoon Walk

While most of the joiners were having their chosen tattoos, we spent the afternoon walking in the rice field. It was so nice to laze around in the serene community where we breathed clean and fresh air. It made me smile watching the children playing happily in the dried area. Though they lack the modern comfort the city can offer, I could feel in my heart their genuine happiness, the same feeling I had when I was a child.

the children and their laughter

As Evening Calls

When nighttime came, we all gathered in two long tables for a noisy but happy dinner. We were served plain rice and chicken tinola. After we eat, we washed-up and went early to bed. It was a miracle for me to sleep as early as 9:00 pm! Sometimes I have to thank this kind of community where the internet is out of reach! Haha!

these native pigs abound the small village

Good Morning Buscalan!

We woke up early for the morning and costume picture taking in the rice field where the sun streamed beautifully. Then we toured the small community and ended up for another picture taking in the cemented area where houses painted by foreign tourists. After this is done, we had our breakfast of rice, longganisa and again, the unli Buscalan brewed coffee.

refreshing morning view

It was almost 11:00 am when we were told that Apo Whang-od felt a bit better and is available for tattooing. Everyone got so excited and hurried to take money and cellphones. We headed fast to Apo Whang-od’s house for the iconic signature tattoo.

the simple life in the small village

The Signature Tattoo

When it was my turn, I sat on a small wooden chair in the middle of the curious and excited crowd. I pointed to Apo Whang-od where exactly I want to be inked. I looked at her with fascination as she started pounding the stick in my right elbow. I was a bit nervous at first.

I watched how the thorn, forcing the charcoal pierced my skin. The first dot spills no blood, the second had, and the third had none.

me and Isabel, one of our tour guides and is a tattoo artist too

Was it painful? My pain tolerance was high the reason it hurt me a bit only. Had I decided on a regular design, I am sure I can bear the pain. The tattoo ceremony lasted for two minutes.

So fortunate

I was so lucky that I was the privileged few that had been tattooed by the last Kalinga tattoo master. The long journey to Buscalan, the simple life in the village, the laughter of the children, the kind-hearted people, and my signature tattoo are my cherished memories of this visit.

my signature tattoo on healing stage

And I was so happy and proud!

Special thanks to Selma and Jing Jing for their warm hospitality and funny stories.

Ging Ging and Selma did a great job for us… thank you ladies

Where we stay?

Selma’s Homestay: Contact numbers: 09185596348/09975500853 – Php300.00/per night

1) If this is your first time to get ink, be ready physically and emotionally. 2) If you have no intention of getting ink, you may tour the small village and mingle with the locals. They are friendly and can speak Tagalog. 3) There is no signal for the internet, enjoy nature and tranquility. 4) Picture taking is Php50.00, the signature tattoo is Php100. 5) They only entertain their own tattoo designs. 6) Bring candies or biscuits to the children. They will be happy to receive it from you. 7) Tattoo’s rate starts from Php400 up to Php3,000, depending on your choice. Please do not haggle anymore, help the local tourism. Anyway, you are after their uniqueness and ingenuity. 8) There is no posh accommodations nor facilities in Buscalan. They only offer homestays, which is just perfect to sleep for the night. 9) Enjoy the taste of their iconic coffee, it somehow resembled the taste of Kape Barako of Batangas. 10) Souvenir prices: Keychain-Php35.00/Ref Magnet-Php75.00/Bagtag-Php500/Hammer-Php100

In getting there through Public Transportation:

Ride a bus Coda Line in Cubao Terminal in getting to Bontoc. Ride a jeep going to Bugnay (Php80.00) then ride a habal-habal to a turning point to Buscalan (Php100.). From there, you will trek downhill and steep uphill for 20 to 30 minutes.

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Apo Whang-Od : Road to the Oldest Tattoo Artist in the World

It would be a shame to visit the Philippines without exploring the tribe of the oldest tattoo artist in the world, Apo Whang-Od . This legendary woman has been tattooing people for more than 80 years now and truly is a national treasure. 

On my way to Bali for an internship, I stopped in Shanghai for a long layover , but also in the Philippines for a 4 days solo backpacking trip . I asked myself how I could make the most of my t ime there and found the absolute best way… A trip to the middle of nowhere in the Mountain Province !

I heard about the famous and legendary woman Apo Whang-Od several times and was really intrigued. What could be better to discover a part of Filipinos culture ? Before getting more into the details of Apo Whang-Od biography , Apo Whang-Od tattoos and Apo Whang-Od location , you can check out  the video I did about the whole experience.

Who is Apo Whang-Od?

Apo Whang-Od age is as legendary as the woman herself. She turned 103 years old when I booked my Apo Whang-Od tour package in 2019. It makes her THE oldest tattoo artist in the world. 

She is also the last Mambabatok (traditional Kalinga tattooists) and is part of the Butbut people of the larger Kalinga ethnic group. She is keeping alive a 1000 year Filipino tradition. Traditionally, only men with special tattooing ancestry could learn the art. Apo Whang-Od was an exception due to her talent seen by her father, the master tattooist of Buscalan.

She has been doing tattoos on headhunters and indigenous people of Butbut since she was 15 years old and has always added 3 dots as her art signature. The Butbut warriors, who used to earn tattoos through protecting villages or killing enemies, no longer exist. Despite that, Whang Od continues to tattoo tourists visiting Buscalan. She well earned her place on the list of Filipinos who transformed the nation .

Apo Whang-Od tour package 2020

After spending a day in Manila at the incredible Z Hostel , I decided I NEEDED to go from Manila to Apo Whang – Od ! I trusted Corhey Travel & Tours for this crazy road trip.  And let me tell you, the Road to Buscalan is not an easy one.

Doing it through a travel agency is way safer and it allows you to avoid the pain in the ass of having to book several buses and jeepneys. The organisation takes care of the car and tour guide. It’s a long ten to fifteen hours trip in the mountains so if you’re usually sick, I strongly advised taking preventive medicine.

At the parking, a tour guide will take the leadership of the group and you’ll walk through wonderful small paths in the mountains and rice terraces to join Buscalan village. Once arrived, you’ll need to register. Depending on how busy Apo Whang-Od is, you may not get a tattoo from her on the day of your arrival. But you can get one from her nieces, Grace and Ilyang, to whom she untrusted her knowledge.

Apo Whang-Od tattoo design and meaning

Each symbol she tattoos has a different meaning. Apo Whang – Od tattoo design s are usually tribal prints, animals or forms like circles and lines. Some of them represent nature like the sun or the mountains, and others have deeper meaning, like strength or infertility. Apo Whang – Od best tattoo , or I would rather say, the one she did the most, is her signature. This is three aligned dots, that can easily be tattooed anywhere on the body.

Kalinga Tattoo : how she does it?

We were lucky enough to be taken care of on our first morning there. Apo, seated on a little stool on the ground, was already working on someone’s design when we arrived. It was quite impressive to see as she’s repeatedly hitting the skin with her traditional hand tools. She uses a lemon thorn needle that is attached to the end of a small bamboo stick and to another shorter stick to tap the thorn into the skin. The ink is a mixture of water and soot. Pambabatok , compared to other conventional tattooing techniques, is relatively painful. But if you’re only doing the three dots, it’s only a matter of minutes.

During the whole weekend, the village took really good care of us. We slept in one of the bamboo houses all together and ate a fish & rice breakfast, a nice dinner and another breakfast with the best coffee I’ve ever tasted.

Travelling truly allows you to open your eyes, mind and heart. That’s why it can be so challenging sometimes. Travel basically is all about learning how to travel with no money and how to swim in the unknown, outside of our comfort zone.

It also teaches you how to feel deeply with the fear of getting attached to places and people you may never see again. But that’s also what makes those experiences so beautiful, worth it and rewarding !

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Apo Whang-Od Oggay: The Last and Oldest Kalinga Tattoo Artist

Apo Whang-Od Oggay, born on February 17, 1917, is a renowned tattoo artist from the village of Buscalan in Kalinga , Philippines . She is the last and oldest practitioner of traditional Kalinga tattooing and is celebrated for her skill and expertise. Whang-Od is part of the Butbut people, a subset of the larger Kalinga ethnic group. She began tattooing at the age of 15 and has been practicing the art form for over 90 years. Whang-Od’s tattoos are known for their symbolic meanings , rooted in Kalinga culture and history. She has gained international recognition for her art, including appearing on the cover of Vogue Philippines at the age of 106. Whang-Od has received numerous awards and honors for her contributions to Philippine culture and is a truly legendary figure in the world of tattooing.

Key Takeaways:

• Apo Whang-Od is a legendary Filipino tattoo artist from the village of Buscalan in Kalinga , Philippines .
• She is the last and oldest practitioner of traditional Kalinga tattooing , with over 90 years of experience.
• Whang-Od’s tattoos have symbolic meanings rooted in Kalinga culture and history.
• She has gained international recognition for her art and has received numerous awards and honors.
• Whang-Od’s contributions to Philippine culture make her a truly legendary figure in the world of tattooing.

Early Life and Training

Whang-Od, also known as Maria Oggay, was born on February 17, 1917, in the village of Buscalan within Tinglayan, Kalinga , Philippines . Her father, a master tattooist, taught her the art of traditional Kalinga tattooing when she was just 15 years old. Traditionally, only men with special tattooing ancestry were allowed to learn the art, but Whang-Od’s exceptional talent and potential led her father to make an exception. She broke the patrimonial tradition of only male apprentices and became the first female tattoo artist in recorded Kalinga history. Whang-Od’s training included learning the traditional hand-tapped tattooing technique called “batok.” She started by tattooing Butbut headhunters and women, who traditionally earned tattoos from combat-related accomplishments. Today, she continues to practice traditional tattooing on both locals and tourists visiting Buscalan .

Technique and Style

Whang-Od practices the ancient technique of Batok , which involves using a mixture of charcoal and water as ink and tapping it into the skin using a thorn from a calamansi or pomelo tree. This tattooing technique passed down for generations, holds significant cultural and spiritual importance in Kalinga society.

Each tattoo design created by Whang-Od carries symbolic meanings specific to the mambabatok culture. For example, warriors who had killed enemies were given eagle tattoos, symbolizing their bravery and victories. Whang-Od’s signature tattoo, composed of three dots, represents herself and her two apprentices, symbolizing the continuity of the art form from one generation to the next. Her tattoos often feature designs inspired by nature and basic geometric shapes.

Tattoo Symbolism in Kalinga Tattoos

The traditional Kalinga tattoos created by Whang-Od are rich in symbolic meanings. These symbols reflect the cultural heritage and values of the Kalinga people, making each tattoo design unique and significant. Some of the common symbolic elements found in Kalinga tattoos include:

• Ancient patterns: Geometric patterns such as lines, triangles, and circles are often used to represent various aspects of nature, spirituality, and community.
• Animals: The inclusion of animals in tattoos, such as eagles and centipedes, symbolizes courage, strength, and protection.
• Plants and flowers: Floral motifs like ferns and rice stalks are often incorporated into tattoo designs to represent growth, fertility, and abundance.
• Textiles: Traditional Kalinga textiles, known for their intricate weaving patterns, inspire designs that showcase the community’s artistry and craftsmanship.

Whang-Od’s expertise in capturing these symbolic elements in her tattoos makes her work revered and cherished by those seeking a deeper connection to Kalinga culture.

Recognition and Awards

Whang-Od’s remarkable contributions to Philippine culture and her dedication to the preservation of traditional Kalinga tattooing have garnered her widespread recognition and prestigious awards . In 2018, she was honored with the esteemed Dangal ng Haraya Award by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA) for her outstanding achievements. The award ceremony took place in Tabuk, the capital of her native province of Kalinga . This significant accolade celebrated Whang-Od’s invaluable role in safeguarding and promoting the rich heritage of traditional Philippine crafts.

In addition to the Dangal ng Haraya Award , Whang-Od was also nominated for the distinguished National Living Treasures Award, known as Gawad Manlilikha ng Bayan, in 2017. This prestigious recognition acknowledges individuals who are recognized as living national treasures for their mastery of traditional Philippine craftsmanship. The NCCA is currently processing her nomination, highlighting the profound impact Whang-Od has had on preserving and reviving the invaluable art of traditional Kalinga tattooing.

Cultural Impact and Legacy

Whang-Od’s art and cultural legacy have had a significant impact both within the Philippines and internationally. Her dedication to preserving traditional Kalinga tattooing has helped raise awareness and keep the knowledge, tradition, and culture of Kalinga tattoos alive, especially among younger generations and those outside Filipino culture .

The practice of Kalinga tattoos was almost extinct before Whang-Od’s prominence, and she has played a crucial role in reviving and promoting its significance. Whang-Od’s influence has also extended beyond the Philippines , inspiring other practitioners, such as Lane Wilcken and Natalia Roxas in the United States, to advocate for the ceremonial tradition of batok and revive other traditional tattooing practices in different regions of the Philippines .

The growing interest in indigenous tattoos among Filipinos can be seen as a way to decolonize aesthetics and reconnect with their roots. By embracing and celebrating traditional tattooing, individuals are expressing their indigenous identity and reclaiming their cultural heritage.

Whang-Od’s remarkable skill and passion for preserving the art of traditional Kalinga tattooing have left an indelible mark on the world of tattooing and indigenous self-expression .

The Rebirth of Traditional Tattooing

• The practice of Kalinga tattooing was nearly extinct before Whang-Od’s prominence.
• Whang-Od’s dedication to preserving traditional tattooing has revived the art form.
• Youth and outsiders are now embracing Kalinga tattoos as a form of cultural expression.
• Other artists are inspired to advocate for traditional tattooing in different regions of the Philippines and beyond.

Accessing Buscalan and Getting Tattooed

Visiting Buscalan , the village where Apo Whang-Od resides, can be an exciting and adventurous journey. Located in the mountainous province of Kalinga , Buscalan offers a unique cultural experience and the opportunity to get a traditional Kalinga tattoo. However, reaching Buscalan can be challenging due to its remote location.

There are three common transportation options available to access Buscalan:

• Private Car: Traveling by private car is a popular choice for those who prefer flexibility and independence. However, it is essential to ensure that the car has a full tank of gasoline, especially if coming from Manila or other distant locations.
• Habal-Habal (Motorcycle Taxi): Another option is to take a habal-habal, a motorcycle taxi, from Bontoc, which is approximately 45 kilometers away from Buscalan. This mode of transportation allows visitors to enjoy scenic views during the journey.
• Passenger Van: Travel agencies in nearby towns offer passenger van services to Buscalan. This option is suitable for those who prefer organized transportation and a hassle-free experience. It is advisable to check the availability and schedules beforehand.

Joining a group tour is another popular and convenient option for visiting Buscalan . Companies like Awra Adventures organize guided tours that include transportation and assistance throughout the trip.

Once in Buscalan, visitors must be prepared for a steep uphill hike to reach Whang-Od’s home located at the top of the mountain. The hike can be physically demanding, so it is important to wear comfortable hiking shoes and take breaks if needed.

Overall, accessing Buscalan requires careful planning and consideration of transportation options . Whether traveling by private car, habal-habal, or passenger van, the journey to this remote village is an adventure in itself.

Tattooing Process and Prices

To experience the ancient art of Kalinga tattooing by Whang-Od or her skilled apprentices, visitors must join a waiting list due to Whang-Od’s limited availability caused by her deteriorating health. The tattooing process itself is a meticulous and intricate practice that involves using a sharp twig to tap the ink mixture into the skin. Designs can range from small and simple symbols to more elaborate and detailed patterns, all of which hold significant cultural and personal meanings.

In terms of pricing , tattoos in Buscalan vary based on the size and complexity of the design. Generally, prices can range from 300php to 1,000php, providing accessible options for visitors with varying preferences and budgets. It’s important to note that visitors are typically offered a selection of predetermined designs to choose from, rather than requesting custom designs.

While Whang-Od primarily focuses on inking her signature three-dot design, her apprentices continue the larger tattoo work, ensuring that the art and tradition of Kalinga tattooing are carried forward.

Example Tattoo Pricing:

Accommodations and homestays.

When visiting the enchanting village of Buscalan, accommodation options are limited but offer a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the local community and culture. Residents provide homestays , allowing visitors to experience the authentic warmth and hospitality of the Kalinga people. It is advisable to make arrangements in advance to secure a homestay, as availability may be limited. By staying in a homestay, you can gain insights into the traditions, daily life, and customs of the Kalinga community, creating lasting memories of your journey.

Local guides are often available to assist visitors during their stay in Buscalan, ensuring a safe and memorable experience. Two trusted guides in the area are Ate Dolores and her daughter Leticia. They possess extensive knowledge of the village, its surroundings, and its cultural heritage. Ate Dolores and Leticia can provide valuable insights, accompany visitors on excursions, and help facilitate meaningful cultural exchanges.

Note: Prices are approximate and subject to change depending on the season and specific accommodation provider.

Other Attractions and Activities

While visiting Buscalan, there are opportunities for side trips to nearby attractions. Explore the beauty and cultural significance of the Banaue Rice Terraces , a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its stunning landscapes.

Additionally, depending on the timing of your visit, you may have the chance to experience local festivities and celebrations in Buscalan. Immerse yourself in the vibrant culture by participating in weddings or witnessing traditional dances.

Interacting with the locals and embracing the tranquil lifestyle of Buscalan can be rewarding experiences during your visit. Take the time to explore the surrounding natural beauty and engage in conversations with the friendly residents.

Precautions and Tips for Visitors

When traveling to Buscalan to visit Apo Whang-Od and experience traditional Kalinga tattooing, it’s important to take certain precautions and make necessary preparations for a smooth and enjoyable trip.

Physical Preparedness

The journey to Whang-Od’s home requires a steep hike, so it’s crucial to be physically prepared for the challenging climb. Make sure you are in good health and have the stamina to tackle the uphill trek.

Cash and Facilities

Keep in mind that there are no ATMs or credit card facilities in Buscalan. It’s advisable to bring enough cash to cover expenses during your stay, including the tattoo fee, accommodation, and any other purchases. Having cash on hand will ensure a hassle-free experience.

Food and Snacks

While there are limited dining options available in Buscalan, it’s a good idea to bring your own food and snacks. This way, you’ll have sustenance throughout your stay, especially during the hike and while waiting for your turn to get tattooed.

Essential Items

To make your trip more comfortable, don’t forget to pack essential items such as sunscreen to protect your skin from the sun, insect repellent to ward off bugs, comfortable hiking shoes for the trek, and appropriate clothing for the weather conditions.

By taking these precautions and making the necessary preparations, you’ll be well-equipped for your visit to Buscalan and have a memorable experience with Apo Whang-Od and the tradition of traditional Kalinga tattooing.

Connectivity and Communication

When visiting the village of Buscalan, it is important to note that there is limited connectivity and no network signal available. Visitors should be prepared to disconnect from the digital world and embrace an offline experience during their stay. This lack of connectivity can be seen as an opportunity to fully immerse oneself in the culture and surroundings, allowing for a deeper connection with the local community and the natural beauty of the area.

While there is no network signal in Buscalan, some homestays may have limited access to electricity, which can provide an opportunity to charge electronic devices. However, it is advisable to bring extra power banks or ensure that devices are fully charged before arriving in the village.

Interacting with the locals can be a rewarding experience, even if there may be language barriers. It is important to note that the majority of the community speaks a native language, with a limited understanding of Tagalog or English. Nonetheless, non-verbal communication , gestures, and respectful curiosity can bridge the gap and foster meaningful connections.

Drone Flying and Photography

Visitors interested in capturing the breathtaking natural landscapes and cultural richness of Buscalan through drone photography must be mindful of the community’s rules and regulations. It is important to obtain permission from the local chieftain or Kapitan before flying a drone within the village.

Respecting the community’s guidelines ensures a harmonious and respectful experience for both visitors and locals.

While some visitors have flown drones in Buscalan without facing any issues, it is always best to seek guidance and permission from local authorities. The use of drones within the village may require a fee or other considerations, as determined by the community.

Photography in Buscalan presents an opportunity to capture the beauty and essence of the village. The stunning natural landscapes, coupled with the vibrant community and its rich cultural traditions, make for captivating images. However, it is crucial to exercise respectful photography practices.

Always seek consent when photographing individuals to ensure their privacy and cultural sensitivity are respected.

Drone Permission and Guidelines:

• Obtain permission from the local chieftain or Kapitan before flying a drone in Buscalan.
• Respect the community’s rules and regulations regarding drone usage.
• Be mindful of any fees or considerations associated with flying a drone within the village.

Photography Guidelines:

• Practice respectful photography and seek consent when photographing individuals.
• Capture the natural beauty and cultural richness of Buscalan through your lens.
• Embrace the opportunity to document the vibrant traditions and spirit of the village.

Apo Whang-Od’s legacy as a legendary Filipino tattoo master and her unwavering dedication to preserving traditional Kalinga tattooing has had a profound impact on Philippine culture and beyond. Through her exceptional skill and expertise in the ancient art of Batok, she has played a crucial role in reviving and promoting traditional tattooing practices, fostering a deeper appreciation for indigenous self-expression and the decolonization of aesthetic norms.

Visiting Buscalan and having the opportunity to be tattooed by Apo Whang-Od or her apprentices is a truly unique experience that allows individuals to connect with their Filipino heritage and witness the living legacy of this remarkable artist. It provides an intimate glimpse into the rich tapestry of Filipino culture and the significance of traditional tattooing within Kalinga society.

As Apo Whang-Od enters the later years of her life, her contributions to the preservation of traditional tattooing will continue to inspire and educate future generations. Her artistry and dedication have not only revived interest in traditional Kalinga tattoos but have also sparked a broader cultural appreciation for indigenous practices and the importance of preserving cultural heritage.

Who is Apo Whang-Od?

Apo Whang-Od Oggay, born on February 17, 1917, is a renowned tattoo artist from the village of Buscalan in Kalinga , Philippines . She is the last and oldest practitioner of traditional Kalinga tattooing and is celebrated for her skill and expertise.

What is Apo Whang-Od known for?

Apo Whang-Od is known for being the last and oldest practitioner of traditional Kalinga tattooing. She gained international recognition for her art and has received numerous awards and honors for her contributions to Philippine culture.

What is the traditional hand-tapped tattooing technique called?

The traditional hand-tapped tattooing technique used by Apo Whang-Od is called “batok.” It involves tapping a mixture of charcoal and water into the skin using a thorn from a calamansi or pomelo tree.

What do Whang-Od’s tattoos symbolize?

Whang-Od’s tattoos carry symbolic meanings rooted in Kalinga culture and history. For example, eagle tattoos symbolize bravery and victories, while her signature tattoo of three dots represents herself and her two apprentices.

How can visitors reach Buscalan?

Visitors can reach Buscalan by private car, habal-habal (motorcycle taxi), or passenger van. The village is located in the mountainous province of Kalinga and can be challenging to access.

How can I get a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od?

To get tattooed by Apo Whang-Od or one of her apprentices, visitors must join a waiting list. The prices for tattoos in Buscalan vary depending on size and detail, usually ranging from 300php to 1,000php.

Are there accommodations available in Buscalan?

Yes, Buscalan offers limited accommodations in the form of homestays provided by local residents. It is advisable to make arrangements in advance, as availability may be limited.

What are some side trips and activities in Buscalan?

Visitors to Buscalan can take side trips to attractions like the Banaue Rice Terraces . There may also be opportunities to experience local festivities and traditional dances, depending on the timing of the visit.

What precautions and preparations should visitors take?

Visitors should be physically prepared for the steep hike to Whang-Od’s home and bring cash as there are no ATMs in Buscalan. Essential items to bring include sunscreen, insect repellent, comfortable hiking shoes, and appropriate clothing.

Is there network connectivity in Buscalan?

Buscalan has limited connectivity, and there is no network signal in the village. Visitors should be prepared to be offline during their stay, although some homestays may offer limited access to electricity and charging facilities.

Can visitors fly drones or take photographs in Buscalan?

Visitors interested in flying drones in Buscalan should obtain permission from the local chieftain or kapitan. Photography is allowed, but it is important to practice respectful photography and seek consent when photographing individuals.

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How to Go to Kalinga: The Easiest Way to Reach Apo Whang-Od (2024)

• Post author: escapemanila
• Post comments: 0 Comments
• Post last modified: January 16, 2024

Our travel guide on the easiest way to reach Apo Whang-Od – a popular tattoo artist in Buscalan, Tinglayan, Kalinga in the Philippines.

There are basically many ways to go to the province of Kalinga from Manila but the easiest one is via Bontoc . The good news is that you can buy your bus ticket to Bontoc online. There’s no need for you to go to the terminal ahead of time just to secure a seat, especially during weekends and peak season. It’s now the time to visit the beautiful village of Buscalan and meet Apo Whang-Od in person.

From Metro Manila, you can take the Coda Lines Bus to the town of Bontoc in the Mountain Province. Coda Lines bus terminal station in  Metro Manila is located at HM Transport Bus Terminal, Monte de Piedad/Maryland St. corner EDSA, Immaculate Concepcion, Cubao, Quezon City.

Schedule of Bus Trip and Fare from Manila to Bontoc via Coda Lines.

• 8:00 PM Daily – 45-seater airconditioned bus without CR Php1,142
• 9:00 PM Daily – 35-seater super deluxe bus with CR P1,276.

The travel time from Manila to Bontoc is around 8-10 hours depending on the traffic condition. BOOK HERE .

While we strive to provide up-to-date information on our blog, it’s important to note that schedules for the Manila to Bontoc route may occasionally change without prior notice. To ensure the most accurate and current schedule, we recommend clicking here to access the latest information and booking platform for this route. This will enable you to check the updated schedule and conveniently book your ticket for a smooth and hassle-free journey.

How to Go to Kalinga from Bontoc?

From Bontoc, you can take a jeepney bound for Tinglayan or Tabuk and alight in Bugnay (Saddle Point). Jeepney fare is P80.00 . Travel time is about 1.5 hours. From Bugnay, you can either hike or take a habal-habal (motorbike) to the turning point – the jump-off point going to Buscalan Village. The hike is about 1-2 hours depending on your own pace.

Upon reaching the jump-off point, you’ll need to register and arrange for a guide. For multiday visits, the guide can be hired at a rate of 500 PHP per group per day. If you’re planning a day tour, the guide can be hired for 1000 PHP.

Manila to Tabuk, Kalinga Bus

Alternatively, you can also take a bus from Manila to Tabuk, Kalinga. Victory Liner has multiple daily trips from Sampaloc and Kamias. You can check the schedule HERE . From Tabuk, you can take a jeepney or bus bound for Bontoc and get off in Bugnay (Saddle Point).

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Meet Apo Whang-Od, the Last Kalinga Tattoo Artist in the Philippines

If there is one person who could best represent the rich culture of Kalinga, a province located in the far north of the Philippines, it is none other than Whang Od, the oldest Filipino tribal tattoo artist. Some even say she put Kalinga on the Philippine map of must-visit places for local and foreigners alike. In fact, many people brave the cold weather and the 10-hour trip to the mountains just to get inked by her.

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Whang-od Oggay is known as the last mambabatok (Kalinga tattooist) from the tribe of Butbut in Buscalan, Kalinga. She has been tattooing for the past 80 years — including head hunters of the indigenous tribe, at the beginning of her long career.

These head hunters were the warriors of their tribe, who protect their villages, to the extent of killing their enemies. For them, it is a symbol of bravery and courage. She also inked the skin of women from the tribe, the tattoos are considered as a sign of beauty and elegance.

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Now, after 80 years of tattooing, Whang-od is inking foreign and Filipino visitors who visit her.

Whang-Od’s tattoo

Whang-od’s tribal tattoo ink is made up of charcoal and water. Once mixed, it is tapped into the skin using a thorn from a citrus tree — either from calamansi or pomelo. The thorn is then attached to a 12-inch long bamboo stick and from there, Whang-od will start tapping it deep into your skin. She has sample designs so that you can choose which design you’d like. The locals or your tour guide will then gently relay your request to Whang-od and from there she will start tapping your desired design.

Getting inked by Whang-od takes some courage as the session can be painful, depending on your body’s tolerance. As a sign of courtesy, visitors are also encouraged to bring in some offerings for your host like food, medicine, and matches which are essential for their day to day existence.

Passing the tradition to her bloodline

Whang-od never married. She lost her significant other during the Japanese occupation and since then, Whang-od has stayed single. Without a child of her own to teach, she is training her grandniece Grace Palicas to continue the tribe’s tattoo tradition. She believes that she can only pass it to her bloodline because if someone outside the tribe were to continue the tradition, the tattoo would be infected.

For her part, Grace is more than willing to continue what the tribe has started. She has even had the opportunity to participate in different tattoo festivals around the country.

Whang-od is now in her mid-90s and from the looks of it, she is not stopping anytime soon. And there seems to be no shortage of people who want to be inked by her and believe in her art.

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Buscalan: A Village that Tattoos Souls

Peter Pan was right. Growing up is a trap. I mean. Who wants to live in a world with an endless cycle of workload, bills, stress, taxes, and responsibilities? Who wants to be in a world full of rude people? And why can’t we live a peaceful and simple life like the Butbut Tribe in Buscalan, Kalinga?

Here’s the thing. 

We are a generation of constantly dissatisfied, overstressed, and overworked people. 

Despite our drive, can-do attitude, and modern technology, we are overwhelmed, anxious, and exhausted.

We live in an era where people kill themselves with productivity. 

We spend hours in long commutes and drives to work. 

And we work feverishly even on weekends and aim to reach a bar that keeps rising higher. 

But guess what?

There’s a silver lining amid life’s chaos. 

The reality is adult life can still be a blur of excitement and joy.

Just spend some time sprinkling it into your life.

Don’t blindly follow the society.

Don’t let pain and trauma turn you into a bitter adult.

And more importantly, don’t lose your sense of wonder and curiosity.

That’s why I joined a Mount Amuyao and Buscalan tour with several friends from Cebu. 

From getting inked to postcard-worthy sunrises, it was a journey filled with fun and blissful moments. 

And it was a rare opportunity to discover the Butbut tribe and see the iconic Maria Oggay.

My Buscalan, Kalinga experience 

05:17 pm: the landslide .

Nothing beats the feeling of conquering a challenging and steep mountain. 

Fresh from a backbreaking hike in Mount Amuyao , we were all smiles as we made our way to the next stop of our Luzon adventure. 

With a positive mood, the van was filled with stories of the mountain’s unlimited stairs. 

Soon, almost everyone dozed off. 

It was a rainy and chilly afternoon, and everything seemed perfect and on time. 

That was until we bumped into a hiccup. 

After a few twists and turns, our van stopped and waited for the vehicle in front of us to move. 

Nothing happened for about 10 minutes.  

Everyone woke up and noticed the idleness. 

We didn’t get any information on what was causing the traffic. 

But I had a hunch what happened. 

A landslide. 

Outside the window, I saw soil movement caused by the persistent rain. 

Sir Greg and Sir Bojec, our organizer, ultimately stepped outside to investigate the cause of the traffic. 

And I was right. 

It was a landslide. 

Surprisingly, though, it didn’t affect our mood. 

Instead of complaining, we cracked jokes, ate our trail food, and shared stories of our hikes in the highest mountains in the Philippines. 

And somehow, this reminded me of a classic lesson in Stoicism : don’t focus on things you can’t control . 

There’s no point in wasting energy and time on things we can’t control. 

Can we control the weather to prevent landslides? 

Can we stop the rain in the snap of a finger?

Heck no. 

But we can control how we respond to these things. 

And how do you respond to situations like this? 

Do you panic, worry or complain like a bitch or a Karen? 

Or do you chill and make the most out of this situation? 

Around 5:50 PM: The drive to Buscalan 

Thankfully, the local government quickly fixed the problem. 

We then resumed our trip to Buscalan, following the winding roads of north-central Luzon. 

And the drive isn’t for the faint of heart. 

Along the way, we saw masses of debris, mud, and rock from recent landslides. 

There were also steep drops, flooded streets, and even cows blocking our way. 

And did I mention there were no streetlights? 

At times like this, I always remember the voices of people saying what I’m doing is risky. 

I get it. 

There are a hundred ways to die in the mountains and in the unchartered territories. 

Heat exhaustion, falling from cliffs, hypothermia, dehydration, and landslides are some of the deadly killers in the mountains.  

But you know what’s more dangerous than hiking and travel? 

Sitting at your working desk for over 8 hours a day.

Sure, long hours working in front of the computer mean quicker promotions and more money. 

But at what cost? 

The thing is, lack of sleep and stress are silent killers. 

They sneak up on you and lead to serious health problems. 

They cause heart attacks, high blood pressure, strokes, and malnourishment. 

And how can I forget the effects of overworking on mental health?

Ah, mental health. 

The reason I joined this Mount Amuyao and Buscalan tour. 

Overworking can lead to burnout. 

And burnout can lead to a variety of problems, including emotional exhaustion, depression, and anxiety. 

So, a word of advice to anyone who’s reading this, spend more time pursuing your passion and less time in front of your computer. 

I’d rather spend my hard-earned money on doing risky things I love than on hospital bills. 

And I’ll never let my well-being take a backseat to any job. 

Around 8:30 PM: The climb to Buscalan Village 

After hours of crossing streams and huge debris, we finally arrived at the drop-off point in Buscalan, Kalinga. 

It was late, and the rain was getting stronger. 

Moreover, we had to take another steep flight of stairs to reach our homestay in Buscalan. 

Yes, stairs. 

Apparently, the Universe wanted us to take on more stairways, following the endless stairs in Mount Amuyao. 

Still, we were up to the challenge. 

Equipped with headlamps, we followed our Buscalan tour guide, who was about to lead us to our homestay. 

We hiked downhill on a rocky and mildly slippery trail. 

Afterward, we crossed a footbridge and began our climb to Buscalan. 

Then, the uphill hike began. 

Stairs, stairs, and more stairs. 

We did cross another footbridge. 

But after that? 

More stairs. 

We did take breaks to catch our breath and relax our legs. 

Soon after, we arrived at an empty house where we took a break. 

And breaks are crucial in everyone’s life. 

At work, we all need a breather from a to-do list that doesn’t get shorter. 

For adults with jobs, breaks are a form of self-care and self-love. 

You might think you’re strong and invincible, but burnout hits everyone. 

And it’s not pretty. 

It affects your performance and makes you resent a job you once loved. 

Taking time to recharge isn’t really slacking. 

It’s smart and the best way to be effective. 

So, take a vacation, give yourself a chance to breathe, and don’t feel guilty about it. 

Eventually, we arrived at our homestay, where we had a hearty dinner and took showers. 

11:10 PM: Homestay in Buscalan 

Waves of laughter echoed in the hallway of our homestay in Buscalan. 

Even though the trip and hikes were tiring, we still had enough energy for some socials. 

And one of the things I love about traveling and hiking is the face-to-face human interactions. 

No Zoom and Skype calls. 

No group messages. 

Just the pure and old-fashioned way of connecting with others. 

In my book, real human interactions are a treasure trove of insights and wisdom. 

It’s like free therapy and lessons about the outdoors but without the PowerPoint slides and props. 

And the best part of it is that you’ll feel lighter after these social interactions. 

As science suggests, social interactions spark the release of endorphins – our body’s natural mood lifters. 

It’s like having an injection of happiness without prescriptions. 

But there’s a curfew in Buscalan, meaning we had to cut our socials short and head to bed. 

Nevertheless, our short interaction gave us a dose of happiness. 

05:30 AM: The Buscalan sunrise 

Sunrises are a perk of traveling and hiking. 

While it’s free and nearly present every day, some of us don’t have the time, energy, and opportunity to witness its beauty at home.  

So, I spent minutes on the balcony, being mindful and soaking in the moment while admiring the sun rising. 

The quiet and calm setting of Buscalan and the therapeutic sunrise made it the perfect time for mindfulness. 

And the serene atmosphere was also stress relieving. 

It was like Neverland.

It was a dose of tranquility that set a positive tone for the rest of the day. 

Soon, the rest of the team went to the balcony to chat and enjoy the views of the rising sun. 

06:39 AM: Exploring the rice terraces

Life isn’t living. 

It’s surviving. 

It’s paying the bills and following a mundane daily routine. 

That’s how our society has programmed us. 

And the world is hell-bent on imposing this mindset. 

In a way, traveling to places like Buscalan is a rebellion against this idea. 

In a world obsessed with efficiency and productivity, taking some time off to travel is a rebellious act. 

You’re declaring that your happiness and personal growth are not afterthoughts. 

They are priorities. 

Taking some off screams that your happiness and well-being are more important than any meeting and deadline. 

You’re reclaiming time, and that’s a bold move and a powerful statement. 

And like any rebels to the societal norms, we decided to experience life and create memories on our time off. 

We roamed around the rice paddies, savoring the views, lush scenery, and majestic creations. 

As a bonus, we met a couple of friendly dogs whom we called Shopee and Lazada. 

08:05 PM: Homestay 

Life is short, the world is wide, and the clock is ticking. 

And I don’t want my legacy to be a person who never takes a break and never experiences something new. 

There’s a big world out there begging to be explored. 

There are places to see, dishes to try, and experiences that can give me lifetime memories. 

I won’t let my work and responsibilities make me miss out on life’s adventures. 

And I won’t let them stop me from seeing one of the country’s legends: Maria Oggay, also known as Apo Whang Od. 

Not only is she a centenarian, but she’s also a badass, a national treasure, and a living legend. 

Nicknamed the last living mambabatok, this 106-year-old tattoo artist is responsible for the tourist boom in the Cordillera region. 

Thousands of foreigners and Filipinos would take the long and bumpy 13-hour drive from Manila to see her at work. 

For those who visit Buscalan, Whang Od will always be their priority. 

Even better, she ensured the 1,000-year-old batok practice will go on by inspiring and training her descendants. 

Even if I don’t get inked by this legend, a glimpse of her would be enough and the icing on the cake. 

After all, I came to Mount Amuyao and Buscalan to find the antidote to my non-stop grind. 

08:29 AM: Time to meet the legendary Apo Whang Od

As we followed our Buscalan tour guide, Marcial, I noticed something off about the village. 

Although remote, it doesn’t have the feel of a traditional tribal village. 

I have seen tribe villages in Visayas, Mindanao, and Thailand. 

And Buscalan doesn’t resemble one. 

With no wooden huts and cogon roofs, it’s a maze of concrete, crowded structures.  

Except for the rice terraces and surrounding towering mountains, it looks a bit like some of the mazed sitios in Cebu City. 

Plus, some houses in Buscalan, Kalinga have Wi-Fi access and other modern conveniences. 

In fact, there are houses equipped with Starlink in Buscalan. 

I’m not saying it in a negative light. 

At least, they’re progressing and providing services to travelers seeking modern amenities and creature comforts. 

And besides, they still speak Butbut, and they have retained their traditions and practices. 

A few minutes later, we arrived at the spot where Apo Whang Od does her rituals. 

Unfortunately, the lines were long, and many people were impatient. 

A local Buscalan tour guide suggested that we might have a chance to get inked by Apo Whang Od if we wait in line until 5 PM. 

Well, that was a bummer. 

We had to get back to the drop-off point by 12 NN. 

We had flights early the next day, and waiting in line for hours for a puncher’s chance was not a smart decision. 

There was only one way for us to get up close to the iconic Apo Whang Od. 

And that was a selfie or a group picture. 

That’s fine, I say to myself. 

08:56 PM: Grace and Elyang 

With a long queue of impatient tourists, it was impossible for us to get Apo Whang Od’s signature 3-dot tattoo.

But there were two alternatives presented to us by Marcial: Grace and Elyang, Apo’s proteges and descendants. 

Besides Apo Whang Od, they were the only artists in the Butbut tribe allowed to do the signature tattoo. 

Speaking of these three dots, this tattoo represents Grace, Elyang, and Apo. 

Thanks to Marcial’s charm and experience, some of us finally got that signature tattoo. 

09:30 AM: A snap with Apo Whang Od 

A fat paycheck is, no doubt, nice. 

But what’s the point if you’re too busy or stressed to enjoy it?

Money can buy luxuries and comfort, but it can never buy time. 

So, invest in experiences and not just in material wealth. 

Thus far, my experiences on this journey have been fascinating and colorful. 

First, I saw the Banaue Rice Terraces – a National Cultural Treasure in the Philippines and the 8th Natural Wonder of the World (as most Pinoys say). 

Then, I climbed one of the tallest mountains in the Philippines. 

In Buscalan, I had my first ink and was about to meet another Filipino icon.

The line for the photo-op with Apo Whang Od was long and crowded. 

We were positioned to be one of the first groups to have pictures with Apo. 

But the other tourists were rowdy, hot-tempered, and cutting corners. 

It was pandemonium. 

The tour operators were screaming, instructing the tourists to move faster. 

And the tourists kept pushing, just to get a picture of Apo. 

We were also in a precarious position. 

Kirk and I were standing on the edge of a retaining wall. 

If we moved and forced our way, the people behind might push us. 

A pic with Apo Whang Od would be great and a rare experience. 

But would I risk my life for it? 

Hell no.  

Moments later, we finally had the chance to take a picture with Apo Whang Od. 

There was, however, one issue. 

Only group pictures were allowed. 

Was it a problem? 

Not, as far as I was concerned. 

So, we rushed and got a picture of the most notable person in the Cordilleras. 

I looked closely at Apo Whang Od and noticed something about her. 

She looked tired. 

At 106, she’s still sprightly and can move like a young woman. 

It amazes me to see a woman that old can work and move like her. 

But her eyes, the portal to her soul, don’t lie. 

She’s tired. 

Maybe Apo Whang Od and I aren’t so different after all. 

Perhaps she’s tired of watching the greedy and bossy tour operators running the tribe. 

Or maybe she’s tired of people exploiting her talents and image. 

I don’t know. 

These are all presumptions based on my observations. 

Who am I to judge?

I’m not a journalist or an investigator. 

But remember the news and rumors about her getting exploited by trade fair organizers and influencers?

I’m starting to believe they are true. 

Still, it was a pleasant experience for me to see her up close. 

It was a joy to see her work. 

It was surreal to see a National Artist and a National Living Legend. 

And our photo-op with Apo wrapped up our journey into the heart of the Cordilleras. 

10:03 AM: The scenery 

I thought our escapade in Luzon was over. 

On our way to the base, we were enthralled by views of the verdant mountains and rice terraces. 

And the stairs and concrete pathway? 

They looked picture-perfect in daylight. 

Once we arrived at the base, we had light snacks and refreshments. 

Afterward, we stopped by the “Welcome to Buscalan” sign and snapped pictures of the mountains. 

And I had learned and realized so many things on our 13-hour journey back to Manila. 

First, personal growth isn’t about adding bullet points and skills to your resume. 

It’s about discovering passions, learning new skills, and becoming a well-rounded individual. 

And overworking not only leaves you feeling unfulfilled, but it also stunts your personal growth. 

Sure, work is an essential part of life, but it’s not the sum of your existence. 

So, find a healthy work-life balance. 

It’s not a luxury but a necessity for a fulfilling and satisfying life. 

We may never find Peter Pan’s Neverland, but we can always take days off, and make memories. 

Your work will be there tomorrow, but the moments of today are irreplaceable. 

And truthfully, this may be the only chance I could take a Buscalan tour and see Apo Whang Od. 

Frequently Asked Questions 

Why visit buscalan, kalinga.

Aside from getting a tattoo from Apo or her proteges, there are a lot of things to do in Buscalan. You can explore the rice terraces, drink their coffee, and talk to locals about their traditions and culture. There are side trips along the way too, including the Banaue Rice Terraces. 

Is Buscalan near Baguio City?

Buscalan is a bit far from Baguio. You need to travel about 180 kilometers to reach Buscalan from Baguio. 

How to get to Buscalan, Kalinga?

The easiest and most convenient way to get to Buscalan, Kalinga is to join a tour. For those from Cebu, I recommend SUGBO Adventours . If you’re from Manila, you can contact sir Greg for your transportation and Buscalan tour. 

How much does a tattoo cost in Buscalan?

A tattoo in Buscalan costs around PHP 200 to PHP 50,000. The signature 3-dot tattoo from Apo, Grace, and Elyang costs PHP 200. On average, the small predesigned tattoos in Buscalan cost PHP 1,000 to PHP 1,500.

The best ideas don’t come when you’re working and staring at your computer for hours. 

They come when you’re enjoying a hobby, taking a walk with nature, or on a long van ride. 

Our brain needs downtown to come up with new and innovative ideas. 

For the past few months, I couldn’t come up with creative ideas. 

I had writer’s block and had no idea what to write about for my blog. 

And my time off work and experiences in Luzon have sparked my creative juices. 

Just staring into the eyes of Apo gave me a plethora of ideas. 

And that’s why I’m sharing this story with you. 

Aldrich Infantado

Aldrich Infantado is a travel junkie and a writing aficionado who loves to share amazing travel tips to his fellow travelers.

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Tattooed by the legendary Apo Whang-od (Buscalan, Kalinga)

Like many others, embarking on a journey to receive a traditional tattoo from the legendary Apo Whang Od is one of the things I have always wanted to do. Read on to find out about our experience traveling to the small village of Buscalan in Kalinga and getting a memorable tattoo.

Nervousness battled with excitement as I rode on top of a full jeepney along the mountains of Cordillera. It was my first time riding top-load style. With goods surrounding us, we tried our best to hold on lest we fall into the river or cliffs below. We were strangers starting on a journey to reach Buscalan . What’s in there you ask? Not what, but who. No other than Apo Whang-od , said to be the last mambabatok .

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But let’s backtrack a bit.

As early as high school, I knew I’ve always wanted to get inked – maybe it’s the rebel in me. Inclining towards the arts, I’ve long dreamed that I would be wearing a permanent and profound symbol of my choosing. What that image was yet unknown.

It started with butterflies and stars and eventually evolved into something related to travel in the later years. When I heard of Apo Whang-od (also known as Maria Onggay) during my university days, I knew then that my first ink would have to come from the oldest living master of batok .

It is an ancient tradition carried out by the Butbut tribe in Tinglayan, Kalinga . Over the years, the small village was featured in various documentaries and publications because of the backhand tap tattoo unique to the Kalingas. Tourists braved the long and tiring travel just to be tattooed by the living legend.

The journey: Manila to Buscalan

That dream finally came to fruition in April this year – with strangers no less. See, I have never traveled solo with strangers before this. I had no clue how it was going to turn out. The fact that I have a low threshold for pain and needles was burning at the back of my mind.

The journey started in Ohayami Trans which brought us to  Banaue . After an arctic 10-hour bus ride, a side trip to the famous Banaue Rice Terraces was in order. From there, we took a van to Bontoc to meet up with Will,  The Broke Backpacker , who was to join us to meet the famous traditional tattoo master.

After arming ourselves with provisions (we brought candies and bread, as advised by friends) and a hearty lunch, our party of four searched for the jeepney heading to Tabuk. But luck was on our side and we stumbled upon the jeepney that heads to Buscalan instead.

Our party of four soon turned into a fellowship of seven. Seven strangers all aiming to be inked with a tattoo previously reserved for the headhunters and women of the Butbut tribe.

With the Chico River below and the Cordillera mountains on the other side, we bid adieu to Bontoc. The party was only getting started.

I couldn’t recall now how many times I held my breath and prayed every time we had to pass by a narrow road. One miscalculation and we’d all be tumbling down the river and rocky cliffs.

Afraid of heights, I begged to be seated in the middle of them all. With the wind whipping our hair and the strong summer sun bearing down on us, there was no other choice but to enjoy the ride. The saving grace, of course, was the scenic view of endless mountains, valleys, rice paddies, and the fresh air that you won’t get in the concrete jungle.

We finally got to sit inside the jeepney when we arrived in the town of Bugnay. The fun part was getting to see and chase the native pigs running around in the middle road as if they were like dogs playing with each other or scratching their itch by the cement.

The other fun part? Sharing the jeepney with a native sickly chicken ill-fated to become dinner later.

Tattoo pilgrims usually trek from the road up to the turning point. But since we got lucky, we bypassed that and alighted right in front of the end of the road. Although most of the path is already cemented, one wrong foot placement and you could be plunging to your demise. I had to take extra care with my jelly legs and fear of heights.

Around the mountains and the rice paddies, we marched on in a single pile, eager to reach the village before sunset. Finally, by 5 PM, we stopped for a dip in the waterfalls. Well, they swam. I was content to rest and watch them enjoy themselves.

Deciding not to take the time to dry themselves up, we continued the rest of our journey. Up, up we go, climbing the concrete stairs towards Buscalan.

The Destination: Buscalan, Kalinga

We all breathed one huge sigh of relief when we laid eyes on the village that was to be our home for a night.

Besides the children running up and down the mountain, one of the first few who greeted us was Apo herself. It was a surreal moment. Her body is a real work of art, with her arms showcasing the tribal designs. Tongue-tied because I was too star-struck to utter anything intelligible other than a good afternoon in Tagalog.

After a round of brewed Kalinga coffee, the rain came pouring in. And that was our cue to head towards Kuya Charlie’s house. We ended the night with a dinner of local food and pancit canton, mingling with the locals under the new moon.

The legend and the ink

Come morning, we made our way towards the small hut perched on the mountainside. This is where the magic happens. A few people were already eagerly waiting for Apo and Grace’s arrival.

Since Apo has no children of our own, she passed down the knowledge to her sister’s granddaughter, Grace Palicas . Another addition to Apo and Grace was Ilyang (Elyang), who’s also presently training to preserve the art of ‘batok/batek’.

For a small design, I was lucky to be worked on by all three, from the master to the new trainees. Ilyang did the stencil, Grace started the tapping and of course, Apo took it halfway to the end. It was an efficient system because sometimes there were 2 or 3 people currently being inked at the same time.

In the olden times, there were foods not allowed to be eaten by the Butbut tribe members after they were tattooed. Foods that can cause itchiness and irritation to the wounds like chili, taro, sticky glutinous rice, and salt. The application of an ointment or cream was also discouraged back then.

The needle, in this case, is a lemon thorn stuck on a bamboo stick. The ink is charcoal and is tattooed on the skin by tapping the bamboo stick with another.

Hands clammy with cold sweat, I tried to even my breathing. This anxiety won’t help with the whole experience, I thought. The first few taps weren’t painful but as it went on, the sting manifested. I tried hard to lose myself in the rhythm of the tapping. I tried hard not to let all that blood bother me. Soon my skin started to swell. With the charcoal ink now embedded inside it.

So this is what it felt like. My fears of fainting and crying were unfounded. Soon enough I was numb with the occasional bouts of pain when Apo tapped it harder than normal. All too soon, it was over. Apo wiped it with a wet tissue for the last time before applying oil over the new tattoo.

To be sure that we catch the last bus going back to Bontoc, we had to immediately go down the mountain after getting our tattoos. We had a tight schedule to work with.

It was no easy feat walking along the sides of the rice terraces with a leg tattoo. It made everything challenging. It almost made me feel regretful that I chose that location.

As much as we, Potpot, Jindra, and I, want to stay longer, luck was not on our side this time. Maybe when I go back, my heavy heart will be no more.

And in the middle of that cramped, cliff-hanging but scenic bus ride, I realized one thing. Not even getting a backhand tap tattoo from a living legend trumps the pain of getting your heart broken.

This physical pain, though it hurts like hell, can never compare with emotional pain. Like getting your heart broken. Or maybe I shouldn’t even compare them at all. But still, unlike emotional pain, the physical hurt goes away after the ordeal. You are only left with a scar or in this case, a mark. Getting your heart broken, you carry with you the pain even after everything is said and done.

Buscalan Travel Guide

How to get to buscalan via bontoc:.

Take the Coda Lines bus bound for Bontoc. Their bus station is in Cubao, Quezon City. The travel time is around 10 to 11 hours depending on the traffic.

From Bontoc, ask around for the terminal of the jeep bound for Tinglayan. There is also a minibus or van.

Where to stay in Buscalan:

There are plenty of homestays and usually, your guide can arrange them for you. A guide is now required when traveling to Buscalan. You can either get a guide when you arrive in Bugnay, but preferably, arrange for a guide beforehand as the mobile signal in Buscalan is little to none. Our guide during our trip is Kuya Charlie.

Travel tips:

• Bring a jacket for the bus aircon and the cold nights in the mountains.
• Bring wet wipes for when you get tattooed.
• As always, take note of the  Leave No Trace principles  and travel responsibly!
• You can opt to bring your food and just have it cooked in your homestay. You can also opt to bring “pasalubong food”/grocery items for your guide and/or the other villagers.
• You can buy coffee from Buscalan. It is dark and strong and definitely should be taken black.
• Wait for Apo Whang-od to tell you the price of the tattoo after the session. But please, don’t haggle.
• If possible, ask your guide to schedule you in the morning to be tattooed.

Apo Whang Od Tattoo Designs (Names and Meanings)

These are the usual tribal/traditional tattoo designs. Should you want a different design, it is up to Apo Whang Od or the other tattoo masters if they want to do it.

It is said that traditional tattoo designs of Apo Whang Od in Buscalan have underlying meanings. Some of these are:

• Shelf: Strength and sturdiness
• Snake tongue: Strength, protection
• Mountain: Journey in life, strength, sturdiness
• Snake skin: Safety, protection from physical and spiritual danger, shield, strength
• Ladder: To reach the heavens, achievements
• Arrow head: Movement or direction
• Crab: Traveler, protection, world before creation, guide
• Dog: Protection, guide, loyalty
• Centipede: Safety, long life, spiritual messenger, protection, guide
• Compass: guidance
• Fern: fertility, strength, health, safe passage to the land of the dead
• Scorpion: strength, protection,
• Serpent eagle: Heavenly guidance, protection, courage
• Holding hands/family: harmony, unity
• Python: protection, good fortune, health
• Standing eagle: strength, freedom, guidance
• Sun and moon: life
• Day and night/hourglass/rice mortar: spiritual shield, creation, fertility, sustenance
• Lightning/people praying: unity, union, faith

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What do you think about getting a traditional tribal tattoo? 

Darlene is currently on the road again and traveling full-time after being an expat/overseas Filipino worker in Qatar. She's rediscovering what it means to travel solo and in her 30s while working on her blogs.

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“This physical pain, though it hurt like hell, can never compare with emotional pain. Like getting your heart broken”

– talaga ba sis? hahaha walang pwedeng maikompara sa pagiging heart broken hahaha love it.. woot. I just read your post. I can’t wait to get inked by wang od too! X

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Ryzza Mae nagpa-tattoo rin kay Apo Whang-Od

DUMAYO rin sa Kalinga ang “Eat Bulaga” host na si Ryzza Mae Dizon upang maranasan ang traditional na pagta-tattoo ng oldest mambabatok na si Apo Whang-Od.

Ipinakita ni Ryzza Mae sa kanyang Instagram account ang ipinalagay na famous signature tattoo ni Whang-Od na three dot sa kanyang kaliwang braso.

“Got inked by the legendary Apo Whang-od,” sabi ni Ryzza Mae sa caption.

Kamakailan lamang ay naging kontrobersyal ang pagpapa-tattoo ng hunk actor na si Piolo Pascual kay Whang-Od.

Ito’y matapos hipuin ni Whang-Od ang private part ni Piolo na tinawanan lang ng aktor. (Issa Santiago)

• Abante News Tags: Apo Whang-od , Eat Bulaga , Ryzza Mae Dizon , tattoo , traditional

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