grinder trips breaker

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If your circuit breaker keeps tripping that means it is actually doing its job. They are designed to trip when a fault is detected that could cause an electrical hazard. Use our troubleshooting guide to determine the cause of the circuit trip. Our experts have provided solutions and tips on completing your own diagnoses and repair. Always check your owner's manual for instructions relating to your specific model. This is a general guide only.

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Why does my Baldor 8" Grinder trip breaker

• Thread starter Thread starter BruceC
• Start date Start date Apr 16, 2007
• Views 6,938
• Apr 16, 2007

My 8" Baldor grinder (Spec No. G8-1-11, Cat # 8107w, Serial # F8-68) starts up but before it reaches speed trips the 15 amp breaker. It appears there are two capacitors located in the "housing" under the motor. Is it reasonable to guess these are not functioning correctly or is this a shot in the dark? Any suggestions on how to diagnose the problem? Thank you  

deltaenterprizes

What else is on that circuit?Try it on a circuit by itself,preferably a 20 amp  

• Apr 17, 2007

Sounds like one "run" capacitor and one "start" capacitor. if the start cap is bad it might well do that. The run cap is a lot smaller, but it could be bad also. Start switch might be bad and not disconnect. Usually it will start slower than expected if the start cap is bad. If switch is bad it may start quick, but never drop down the start current to run current.  

matt_isserstedt

Also check the centrifugal switch and linkage which switches out the start capacitor.  

AeroncaChamp

couple other ideas: 1) faulty or overloaded breaker? (do other motors or additional loads trip it?) Does it cause other 15 or 20 A breakers to pop the same way, in the same time? 2) slow starting motor? motors present dead short until they start spinning, and draw considerably more than rated current until they are up to spped. I had an old (stiff) compressor that would trip breakers when it was cold - the motor wouldn't reach speed quickly enough and the breaker would pop - even a 20 AMP breaker. Does the grinder motor rotate freely? If free rotating, but spins up slowly, I'd check the starter cap. If it starts spinning up quickly, I would think the starter cap to be OK. If the shop is quiet, you should be able to hear the start switch - a click as the motor comes up to speed... Would be a problem if not cutting out. 3) it's not on a GFCI, is it? I've only had problems with this when there were multiple motors on the same circuit.  

Thanks for the responses. Nothing else was running on this circuit, it is a new 220V, 15amp circuit (put in by an electition), non-GFCI as far as I can tell, and it runs my table saw, bandsaw, and phase convertor OK. It seems to have always (I bought it used) started up slow ("labored") but now it never gets up to speed before the breaker trips. The grinder rotates freely. From what has been said I think the starter capacitor is suspect. Is there a way to test this capacitor? If they are cheap maybe I should just replace it and hope this is the problem. What type of store do I go to to buy a new one? Thanks  

the couple that I've needed weren't cheap... maybe why it was sold, but it should be way cheaper to replace cap than buy a new Baldor! Grainger comes to mind. Baldor? They should provide parts for their own. Maybe a local motor shop? Should be a number on it; I'd google that number and see what you find.  

Capacitors are cheap, check at a local motor shop.  

HVAC supply houses are typically a good source for a wide selection of start and run capacitors since they're used in AC equipment and that equipment tends to be a tough environment for capacitors. A capacitor purchased as "a capacitor" will typically be a lot cheaper than the same capacitor purchased as a replacement part for a tool. That grinder, running on a 220V circuit, should start and come to full speed in about a second, assuming it spins freely. If you've got time to notice that it seems to start slow, then chances are it is starting way too slow. As others have already said, the capacitor and/or the centrifugal switch are the most likely suspects. There's a way to check the functioning, but not necessarily measure the value, by using an analog voltmeter, switching polarity back and forth, and watching the voltage decay rate(or maybe it was resistance change..anyway, the meter needle will jump up and slowly move back down on a good 'un). Been so long thats about all I remember about it. Some meters will measure capacitance directly. I've got a Fluke 83 which will do that, but its not your run of the mill $19.95 DVM. I don't know whether any of the current cheap meters have that capability or not. One thing I can say with absolute certainty is DO NOT attempt to charge a capacitor with line voltage in checking it out if you aren't thoroughly familiar with what you're doing. A capacitor with an internal short in just the right place can become a bomb with no prior notice. I've seen a lot of dead ones in AC equipment that were swelled up and mis-shapen, but I've also seen several that had exploded within the units. You wouldn't want to be anywhere in the vicinity when that happens.  

I suspect your line, in particular the breaker. I've had new ones that didn't work. I now, I know, it's new and it was done by an electrician. I still suspect your line/breaker. I have a Baldor 1/2 hp motor in my 14" Delta bandsaw that's been running since 1972 with only one bearing replacement on the drive end of the shaft. Baldor is the best in my book. I can't imagine a capacitor going bad in only a "short" time. (pun intended) If all else fails, take it to a motor shop. Many of them will check a motor for nothing. By the way, Mr. Metlmunchr is correct about working with capacitors. They are dangerous when charged. Good luck.  

Take the suspect cap to a motor shop and have it checked,Grainger shuold have a replacement  

Mcmaster Carr has caps very reasonable and their shipping costs are usually reasonable as well. Good luck, Jim  

Take the grinding wheels off the grinder and try to start it. By removing all the rotating inertia, it should start much easier. If it starts quickly, but still trips the breaker, the start cap is not disengaging. If it still starts slowly, the start cap is probably bad. -Joe  

• Apr 18, 2007

My experience is that when a start cap. blows, the motor will not start--if there's only one. If you have 2 of them, and they're the same size, one is probably shot. The slow starts will soon kill the other one--caps. don't like that at all.  

• Apr 19, 2007

Thanks again for the input. I plugged the grinder into a different outlet protected by a different breaker. Again the shaft started to turn but the breaker tripped within a few seconds. I then took the grinding wheels off. The shaft seemed to reach speed quickly but then the breaker tripped. The shaft rotates freely. The motor had two capacitors –same dimensions and same numbers stamped on them: 103414-15 Aerovox P104F328 8UF 370 VAC 6818 B1 When I looked in MSC and Grainger they didn’t sell an 8UF 370 VAC cap. And it appeared, from looking at the listed numbers of the start and run caps, that this type of number is closer to a run cap than a start cap. Thus, might I have two run caps and no start caps? But if I am reading what has been said on the posts correctly the symptom suggests the start cap is not disengaging—the centrifugal switch is bad. When I look at a list of replacement parts for a more current 8” baldor grinder it lists: “Capacitor (Oil Type), (Single Phase)” and a “Starting Relay (Single Phase)” but I don’t see a “centrifugal switch” listed. Although I have not taken the grinder apart recently, I don’t remember seeing any “centrifugal” looking switch in the past when I had it apart to clean up. Anyone have any thoughts? I called a motor repair shop (suggested by Baldor). The guy said he couldn’t be sure what the problems was over the phone but it may cost more to fix then it is worth.  

They are both RUN caps. Replace them with caps. close to 8 uf but buy the better ones rated for 440 volts. Also call Baldor and ask if the motor is supposed to have 2 run caps. and no start caps. If so, you have what's known as a PSC motor, similar to the fan motors in home A/C units.  

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Why is My Septic Pump Tripping the Breaker? – 5 Reasons

Written by  Edwin Jones  / Fact checked by  Andrew Wright

Have you ever experienced a septic pump tripping gfci breaker? Are you wondering “why is my septic pump tripping the breaker?”

There are many reasons for a sump and septic pump tripping the circuit breaker. Most of these problems are associated with a ground fault or blockage caused by the debris. If you experience issues like these, it’s best to call a professional. That’s because an improper pump repair can lead to more significant problems.

Read on to determine what causes septic pump problems and if your unit needs to be serviced or replaced.

Table of Contents

1. Damaged Pump Motor

3. blockage, 4. damaged electrical wires, 5. using a low rating extension cord, why septic or sump pump trips gfci breakers.

Though sump and septic pumps are different types of pumps, these pumps have almost the same motor function. The sump pump pumps excess water from basements caused by flooding, while the septic pump removes water and waste from septic tanks.

When a septic aerator keeps tripping the breaker, you need to get in touch with a professional to look at it. That’s because, when improperly serviced, these pumps can damage your property or even lead to physical injury. However, before calling your local technician, here are some things you should consider.

A damaged pump motor may be the most common reason your pump keeps malfunctioning, leading it to trip its breaker. You can check if your pump motor is damaged by turning it on and listening for any humming sound. If there’s no sound, calling a professional is the best way to solve this problem.

Your septic pump or sump pump breaker may have tripped due to a water leak or moisture. The GFCI breaker will detect the presence of water or moisture in the pump wiring or inside the motor and will trip instantly. That is also why it is advisable to plug your pump into a GFCI breaker.

Furthermore, water and moisture that enters the motor pump can cause damage to your unit, causing corrosion and stopping it from working. If this is the case, you should also have a professional look at your system to apply solutions that will prevent this from reoccurring.

Related : Detailed Guide on Installing a GFCI Breaker.

The other reason the septic and sump pump keeps tripping the breaker is dirt blockage. When there is dirt inside your pump, the impeller may have difficulty spinning or worse; it will get stuck by the debris inside. In this case, the pump will need to draw more current, which causes breaker trips.

A sign of blockage is when the pump breaker trips after a few minutes of working. Furthermore, there are instances when your pump will immediately trip upon starting due to a stuck pump impeller.

The electrical wiring may also weaken as it ages if your pump is old. Sometimes it’s also caused by animal bites, especially if the wiring is not secure. There are also some instances the wire gets damaged after installation or repairs.

Though it is not ideal, some septic pumps need to use an extension cord. However, some extension cords may be too light for them. Using a low rating extension cord may blow off your pump fuse or trip the circuit breaker.

It is better to call certified maintenance if you see any of the signs above. However, if you have already purchased a replacement for your septic pump, this video by Wholesale Septic Supply will help you understand its wiring installation.

Seeing any signs above will help you answer your question of why is my septic pump tripping the breaker. Furthermore, when you experience the situations above, you should call a professional to look at your system.

So, do you have a problem with your septic pump? Is the information above helpful to you? Have you encountered any issues that aren’t listed here? Share them in the comments below to see how we can fix it!

Furthermore, read now other articles to learn more about the most reason why your appliances keep tripping the breaker, such as:

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I am Andrew Wright. With 8 years of experience designing, installing, and maintaining electrical power systems. I love my job, and I have always wanted to offer others the necessary help so they can take care of their houses.

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9inch grinder on domestic power supply

• Thread starter phatboy
• Start date 21 May 2016

• 21 May 2016

Hi, I've read a few places that 9inch grinders being around 2000w @ 230v often trip standard domestic power supplies on startup. Is there any truth in this? I will be buying a machine soon, and a soft start one is tempting for a couple of reasons, but they seem to be a lot more expensive when in a carry case?! Any advice or recommended tools appreciated! Tim  

PrenticeBoyofDerry

It is likely the start up inrush current can overload the circuit breaker, you could swap out the breaker likely a b type, for c type, providing the earth loop impedance of the circuit comply. This helps deal with the short period that the start up/inrush current is present.  

My B&Q 9" grinder was OK on a 10m extension lead fused at 13 amp. Think it has soft start , only used it for one afternoon  

• 22 May 2016

Ive used mine quite a lot on a B32 protected ring main and it has never tripped. No soft start feature and its a 2100 watt Hitachi grinder.  

bernardgreen

• 23 May 2016

Does it dip your lights when it starts ? more important does it affect your neighbours lights ?  

I only use my angle grinder, pressure washer, air compressor , arc and mig welders in daylight hours so my neighbours wouldn't know if their lights would dim!  

PrenticeBoyofDerry said: It is likely the start up inrush current can overload the circuit breaker, you could swap out the breaker likely a b type, for c type, providing the earth loop impedance of the circuit comply. This helps deal with the short period that the start up/inrush current is present. Click to expand...

No chance of a cuppa in your house then with a 2kW kettle  

• 24 May 2016

^woody^ said: No chance of a cuppa in your house then with a 2kW kettle Click to expand...

• 29 May 2016

My 2400w Bosch hasn't ever tripped a power supply, does have soft start though... no idea what the inrush current of a kettle is compared to a motor, but my kettle is 3kW and that's fine, so is my 3.1kW iron  

phatboy said: Do kettles have a large inrush current, like a motor might?! Click to expand...

• 30 May 2016

bernardgreen said: phatboy said: Do kettles have a large inrush current, like a motor might?! Click to expand...

^woody^ said: Surely a kettle goes from a state of no draw to maximum draw when switched on just like a grinder that does not have soft start Click to expand...

But a kettle of 2kw at 230v is going to draw the same current as a 2kw grinder at 230v. So any MCB won't know the difference and would trip regardless once the threshold for the MCB is exceeded?  

I find the cheaper machines are problematic, have a cheap chop saw which will trip my garage supply every time, have to use it from the house ring main or it trips.  

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Ejector Pump Tripping GFI

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Good morning group, I have a finished basement with full kitchen, laundry and full bath. I have an ejector/grinder pump to lift the sewage, that has been working flawlessly since it was installed almost 14 years ago. The pump is the "piggy back" style double plugs that plug into a dedicated GFCI outlet. In the past few months the GFCI has been tripping causing the sewage to backup. I suspected maybe a bad GFI outlet so I ran a heavy, short extension cord to another GFI outlet and it trips as well. Sometimes it will work fine for a week without tripping and other times it will trip 2 or 3 times a day. Any thoughts? Am I in the market for a new pump or is there some testing I can do to determine what is causing this?  

New pump.  

Before I purchased a new pump, I would test for a ground fault on the components of the circuit and the pump. Most likely it's the pump, but if you replace it and the problem continues and you find it's actually a degraded cable or float switch, you might not like it.  

Meg it and know for sure. I don't think a sewage pump should be GFCI protected personally.  

Thought it was code that any outlet below grade, had to be GFCI?  

I might add, if I unplug the piggy back cord and plug in the pump directly, it will pump with no issues, obviously, just wont shut off via the float.  

Why do you suspect the pump rather than float switch?  

Just 2 weeks ago I had a call about a single motor boat lift problem. The GFCI breaker would trip occasionally and the installer could not find the problem (installed 3 years ago). It had a manual controller (spring loaded switch, up/down). It tripped the GFCI receptacle a couple of times and actually worked once. I ohmed the motor leads using a high resistance electronic meter. I found one wire that had a very high resistance path to the casing of the motor. Replaced the motor and everything is fine now. I just like to know that I am fixing a found problem instead of assuming what the problem is.  

Hmmm at 14 years this an awkward point. Your last comment makes me think switch is going. If a budget issue start there... But and here's the but ... It's 14 years old I suspect you're at or near the end of its lifecycle anyways I would start pricing new units something like that is not something you want to worry about I would replace it all personally and that's what I would recommend to a customer you got your moneys worth.  

Sump/ejector pumps are not required to be GFCI protected here, if you install a single recep instead.  

Is there a risk of electrical shock if someone is showering and the pump has a short if not on a GFI? Sorry for my ignorance about GFIs.  

We actually do plumbing and electric and it is completely legal to install a sewage ejector on a dedicated circuit with a single receptacle with no other loads on the circuit. Gfci protection is Not recommended for sewage ejectors or sumps. That said the average lifespan of a macerator style sewage pump is 8-10 years depending on usage.  

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Home & Garden

Bench Grinder trips breaker

• Last Updated:

Feb 23rd, 2013 3:51 pm

• Search this thread

Feb 18th, 2013 3:26 pm

• Reply with quote

Feb 18th, 2013 4:08 pm

Feb 18th, 2013 5:19 pm

Feb 18th, 2013 5:54 pm

Feb 18th, 2013 6:01 pm

Feb 18th, 2013 8:59 pm

Feb 18th, 2013 9:02 pm

Tradesman wrote: ↑ It could be that the 15a breaker that is powering your outlet cannot handle the initial inrush current of the grinder. Just because it is a 7.7 amp grinder it may require upwards of 13 amps initial start up current. In that case the 15 amp breaker will trip. Is there a little metal plate with a bunch of electrical info you can post?

Feb 18th, 2013 9:18 pm

Tradesman wrote: ↑ After re-reading you also state that is is a 240 volt motor. Is your plug rated for 240 or 120 volts?

Feb 18th, 2013 10:16 pm

smp wrote: ↑ I didn't mention 240 volt anywhere. The bench grinder is standard, 110. The rating on the capacitor is 250VAC.

Feb 18th, 2013 10:24 pm

smp wrote: ↑ The power bar is a big heavy duty power bar and I have an electric heater plugged into it as well and the heater never trips the power bar. In my old house, that same heater used to blow fuses when both elements were turned on, it does not trip breakers in the new house and it's never tripped the power bar. So, I based on that I can determine that the power bar I'm using isn't dinky.

Feb 21st, 2018 12:37 pm

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Why Is My Circuit Breaker Tripping? 4 Potential Problems and Solutions

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Q: Every few hours—sometimes minutes!—my living room and one side of my kitchen lose electrical power. I’ll check the breaker panel and, sure enough, a circuit breaker has tripped…again. Should I call an electrician, or is there a simple DIY fix I can try first?

A: While it’s frustrating when a circuit breaker keeps tripping, they are important safety mechanisms. Designed to shut off the electrical current when something goes wrong, circuit breakers are one of the best ways of protecting a home from an electrical fire. “When a circuit breaker trips, typically it is because we use too much electricity, which causes it to overload and turn off,” says Christopher Haas, expert electrician and owner of Haas & Sons Electric in Millersville, Maryland. For those who need an electrical panels 101 refresher course or aren’t sure how to reset circuit breakers, each breaker has an on/off switch and controls a separate electrical circuit in the home. When a breaker trips, its switch automatically flips “off,” and it must be manually turned back on to restore electricity to the circuit. For those wondering, “Is it dangerous if a circuit breaker keeps tripping?” the answer is that it can be, depending on the source of the problem. An electrician can ultimately deal with the root issue, but a little sleuthing will reveal whether it’s something that’s easily remedied.

In many cases, the cause of a circuit breaking tripping is an overloaded circuit.

A circuit overloads when more electrical current is being drawn through the wires than they can handle, tripping the circuit breaker. If this happens, there may be a few additional signs:

• Buzzing noises coming from outlets
• Devices charging slowly
• Electrical outlets not working
• Flickering lights
• Scorch marks on outlets and light switches

If a circuit breaker keeps tripping in one room, homeowners can test for circuit overload by turning off all the switches in the affected area and unplugging all appliances and devices. After the breaker is flipped back on, the devices can be turned back on one at a time, with homeowners waiting a few minutes in between to see if the circuit remains on. If the breaker trips before all the appliances are turned on, the experiment can be repeated, this time turning them on in a different order. It may be necessary to do this several times to find out how many appliances can be operated at once before the circuit overloads.

“As a short-term solution, you can unplug unnecessary appliances to prevent tripping circuit breakers. You may still get some trips, but you can limit them by unplugging devices that you don’t need to use,” advises Dan Mock, vice president of operations at Mister Sparky , an electrical company with 90 locations in the U.S. The best long-term solution, however, is to pay an electrician for the cost to rewire the house and add additional circuits. The cost to replace an electrical panel is about $1,274 on average.

Other times, the issue may be caused by a short circuit.

A “short” circuit means that two wires that should not be coming into contact are inadvertently touching, triggering a sudden surge of electricity through the wires. A short can occur in an outlet, a switch, or within an appliance if wires are loose or have been chewed through by mice or pets. Some signs of a short circuit include:

• Popping sounds
• Discolored outlets or switches
• Burning smells

Testing to see if an appliance has a short is similar to testing for an overloaded circuit. When an appliance that has a short in its wiring is turned on, it will immediately trip the circuit. Homeowners can also try plugging it into an outlet in a different room. If the breaker for that room trips, there’s a short in the appliance (if it’s unclear what breaker goes to what room, the breaker can be identified with one of the best circuit breaker finders ). Electrical shorts can be a major fire hazard, so it’s a good idea to call a licensed electrician for this circuit breaker repair. It’s wise to stop using the outlet or appliance until a pro takes care of the problem.

Another potential cause of a circuit breaker tripping is a ground fault.

A ground fault occurs when the electricity running through a home’s wiring diverts from the wiring loop and travels to the ground, usually due to faulty wiring or water infiltration in an outlet or switch box. Water is a conductor, which is why walking through puddles is often listed as something not to do in a power outage in case of downed power lines. Once water makes contact with wires, electricity can jump from the wiring loop and follow the water trail. This creates a surge in electricity leading to a tripped circuit breaker. If a person comes in contact with the electricity that is on its way to the ground, this can result in electrocution. Homeowners may notice a few signs of a ground fault, including:

• Tripped GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlets;
• A burning smell coming from an outlet; and
• Lights flickering.

Newer electrical breakers have features designed to protect against the danger of ground faults. According to Haas, “Ground fault breakers sense electricity going to earth as opposed to going through the wires of the circuit. You’ll find [these] for bathrooms, kitchens, garages, exteriors, and basements.” GFCI outlets are another safety feature that shut off the electric current within a fraction of a second of sensing a ground fault.

If a ground fault is the problem, the cause of the errant water must be discovered and repaired, and any damaged wiring must also be replaced. It’s also a good idea to install GFCI outlets in rooms where water is commonly used. A GFCI outlet costs $210 on average.

Sometimes a bad or worn-out circuit breaker can be the culprit.

In some cases, the circuit breaker itself may be faulty. Breakers that are old, damaged, or were installed incorrectly may trip frequently for no apparent reason. Alternatively, faulty breakers may not trip when they are supposed to, leaving the home at risk of electrical fire. Some signs of a bad circuit breaker include:

• The circuit breaker getting hot and tripping frequently;
• The circuit breaker won’t reset;
• It has been over 10 years since the breaker was last serviced; and
• The breaker has scorch marks.

An important electrical safety tip to keep in mind is that resetting a breaker over and over again can cause what is called an arc flash, which is a small electrical explosion that can be deadly. If resetting the breaker once does not remedy the issue, it’s a good idea for the homeowner to hire an electrician near them who knows how to replace a circuit breaker safely. Mock warns, “Don’t take any chances with circuit breakers. Instead, call a licensed electrician who knows the safe ways to replace breaker boxes, upgrade circuits, and diagnose potential electrical problems in your home.” Wiring a breaker box is a job to leave to an experienced electrician.

A professional electrician can help determine the specific cause of a frequently tripping circuit breaker.

Most circuit breaker problems—aside from those explained in the sections above—will need to be inspected and addressed by a licensed electrician. According to the Electrical Safety Foundation International (ESFI) , each year “thousands of people in the United States are critically injured and electrocuted as a result of electrical fires, accidents, [or] electrocution in their own homes.” While homeowners may be tempted to save on electrician costs by attempting circuit breaker replacement or repair themselves, electrical work is not suitable for casual DIYers. “Yes, you have to pay, but you can save many hours of head-scratching by hiring an electrician. Electricians will also have all the right tools for diagnosing and repairing the circuit,” Haas adds. “Lastly, they will come with a warranty/guarantee should something arise, and they will typically return at no additional cost.”

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Sewage ejector pump intermittently trips GFCI breaker

• Thread starter mangoManFT
• Start date Oct 10, 2019
• Tags ejector pump gfci

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• Oct 10, 2019

I have a Liberty sewage ejector pump outside my house. It is plugged into an outside GFCI outlet. Intermittently, the GFCI breaker trips and the pump doesn't run. If I reset the breaker, the pump runs again. There doesn't seem to be any particular event that triggers the breaker trips, as far as I can tell. Sometimes it trips once a day, sometimes it's fine for a week. I thought it was the GFCI outlet receptacle itself, but I replaced it and the trips are still happening. The pump was installed 8 years ago. It is a Liberty P372LE51. It has never been serviced, but the manual doesn't state any recommended periodic maintenance. What could be causing the GFCI trips? Could a clogged impeller cause a GFCI trip? I have not opened up the pump to check the wires, so I suppose that somehow one of the wires could be shorting with fluids in the chamber. Or is it a sign the pump is going bad? I hoped this would last longer than 8 years. It only services one bathroom and our kitchen sink/dishwasher. Any comments/advice is appreciated...thanks!  

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Measure the resistance from the power wires on the pump to ground wires. A resistance than about 24000 ohms (24 kohm) would be about the border between tripping and not. Myself, I would consider rewiring in a way where no GFCI was needed. I think that hard wiring the sewage pump directly, with no outlet, might do that. I am not an electrician.  

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Reach4 said: Measure the resistance from the power wires on the pump to ground wires. A resistance than about 24000 ohms (24 kohm) would be about the border between tripping and not. Myself, I would consider rewiring in a way where no GFCI was needed. I think that hard wiring the sewage pump directly, with no outlet, might do that. I am not an electrician. Click to expand...

WorthFlorida

Third enhertu chemo session completed aug 1, 2024.

• Oct 11, 2019

With direct wire a cutoff switch would be needed near the pump so the pump can be serviced. GFCI are needed for outlets where you can accidentally be shocked with power cords for tools, extension cords, etc. A long winded article on disconnects. https://www.ecmweb.com/code-basics/disconnect-requirements-articles-422-through-450  

• Nov 11, 2019

Forgot to follow up on this thread. I ended up re-wiring the two outlets I had in my exterior box such that one is non-GFCI protected and the other is GFCI protected. I plugged the pump into the non-GFCI outlet and the alarm in the GFCI outlet, and all seems well. Before, both outlets were protected via the same GFCI, so when the pump tripped the GFCI breaker, the alarm lost power and didn't sound. Now if the pump fails the alarm should still have power. Unfortunately I never discovered what was causing the pump to trip the GFCI breaker.  

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Kenwood Chef A701A

The Kenwood Chef A701A is a stand food mixer released by Kenwood.

hesketh.ram @heskethram

Posted: Feb 12, 2020

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Why is the mixer tripping the electricity out and can it be repaired

When plug in and attempt to switch on the electricity trips at the box taking out all sockets in the house. What is likely to be wrong and can it be repaired

Is this a good question?

mayer @mayer

Rep: 686.2k

MacHale Enterprises

Unplug it, open it up and look for where it’s burned. You have probably pulled a wire loose and it’s totally shorted out.

Kenwood Chef A701A Power Cable Replacement

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jayeff @jayeff

Rep: 465.6k

Posted: Feb 13, 2020

Most probably it can be repaired.

There is a short circuit connection in the mixer somewhere that is causing the breaker to trip when the mixer’s switch is operated.

It could be a faulty component such as a capacitor being short circuit, an internal wire touching the frame of the mixer or maybe even the switch itself shorting out to the frame.

Here’s an image of the wiring for the mixer taken from the service manual . The manual has full dismantling instructions for the mixer starting on p.3.

With the mixer totally disconnected from the power, use a DMM’s (digital multimeter)-Ohmmeter function, in conjunction with the circuit diagram to test where the short circuit is in the mixer’s operating circuit.

Once you have identified the problem then if it is a component that is faulty the manual has a full parts list which will help in getting the replacement part or hopefully an equivalent part if it is not available.

If you don’t have a DMM or know how to use it or know how to read a circuit diagram then perhaps you may know someone who can do this for you.

If not then contact a reputable, professional electronics or appliance repair service and ask for a quote. Tell them about the service manual being available online as it will help them if they are unfamiliar with the mixer.

(click on image to enlarge for better viewing)

Hopefully this is of some help

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