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Travelling Without a Passport

10 Things You Shouldn’t Do While Travelling Solo in India

You’re travelling solo to India and you simply can’t wait, which makes sense because India is beautiful.  No matter what happens it’s guaranteed to be an adventure, but that doesn’t seem you can’t prepare! Since you’ll be travelling solo, you need to be twice as diligent about taking care of yourself, which is why we’ve put together this list of 10 things you shouldn’t do while travelling solo in India.

Read our guide about India for solo female travellers

Our experience has taught us that there’s no such thing as being too prepared, so brush up now and concentrate on having a stellar time once you arrive. 

As an Indian female traveller who has moved all around her country – solo and otherwise – my single most important piece of advice would be to not underestimate the value of research. Because, there is more to India than just The Golden Triangle ! For its multiculturalism and ecological diversity, India is a treasure trove for every type of traveller. I’ve learnt that blending in with the places and its people – to the extent possible – is the best way to experience it. Consult with your host to understand local nuances better as these vary across the country. – Elita, Nomadic Thunker

1. Don’t Drink the Tap Water

There’s nothing worse than coming down with a stomach bug when you’re on your own and there’s no one to look after you. You could quite possibly feel like you’re dying a miserable death, as coming down with a serious case of diarrhoea or cholera is no joke! There are ways around this, though…you can carry a SteriPEN or similar water purifier with you that can sterilise the water you drink. Otherwise just make sure you stick to bottled water throughout your journey and skip the ice in restaurants. 

2. Don’t Ask for a Beef Steak… Anywhere

You might be a big fan of beef back home, but in India you will be frowned upon or even worse for insisting that you want to eat beef. Cows are sacred animals in India and you’ll see them roaming the streets freely alongside everyone else. It’s an absolute insult to even consider eating them and you could land yourself in hot water – with no one to back you up – if you make a scene about it.

3. Dress a Little More Reservedly

This is especially applicable to women. While the weather will no doubt be extremely hot, try and avoid walking around in your hot pants and cropped tops. Indians can be quite reserved and this is seen as disrespectful towards their culture. Humidity friendly clothing options can include maxi skirts, capris, flowy tops and loose, lightweight, breathable fabrics like linen, cotton or jersey. 

Respect the local culture. While Indians in small towns and villages are friendly and helpful, it’s always good to be mindful of the local culture. Like it or not, the country is still in a state of limbo as far as modernization is concerned. So unless you’re in one of the metro cities, avoid or exercise caution with regards to skimpy clothing (if it’s hot, loose cottons would help), public displays of affection (hand holding is fine), staying out late and befriending random strangers when inebriated. Also be careful while selecting guides; we’d advise against going along with local touts. – Ankita & Mohit, Trail-stained Fingers

4. Don’t Forget to Sign Up for Travel Insurance

You’re going to be far from home and alone so why not just let your parents relax and give yourself the peace of mind that comes with the security of travel insurance. Err on the side of caution by taking up some comprehensive travel insurance, as it’s not expensive and will be your very best friend if the worst happens. Should you get injured, travel insurance could be the difference between you having to navigate your way through local hospitals on your own or being flown back home to familiar territory.

Travel light. You want to be mobile in India as you wander down narrow roads and squeeze in packed transportation. Also, do research on a safe place to stay — especially traveling as a woman. I felt less stressed knowing my lodging had a good reputation and would give me good advice on any of my “off the beaten place destinations”. – Tara, Tara Shupe Photography

5. Don’t Be Offended by a Barrage of Questions

Travelling alone will result in you meeting people and them wanting to make you feel at home. Indians do this by way of a multitude of questions, some of them quite personal. It’s best not to get offended, as these are seen as more of a bonding exercise. They’re simply trying to get to know you and make you feel more at home.

See Also: Frequently Asked Questions About Travelling to India, Answered by Indians

6. Keep Your Left Hand Out of Bounds of Contact

Indians eat with their right hands and reserve their left hands for ablutions (washing oneself, typically as part of a ritual purification). Trying to shake someone’s hand with your left, or even reaching out to them with your left hand, is totally rude. Always remember that right is right, even if you’re left-handed.

7. Leave Your Feet Out of It

Aside from walking on them, try and keep your feet out of the equation. Feet are deemed to be dirty and even gesturing towards them can be seen as an insult. Don’t ever put your feet up on a chair or table and remember to take your shoes off before walking into people’s homes or sacred places such as temples.

8. Don’t be Alarmed When People Want to Take Your Photo

Again, this is more prevalent with women, but you shouldn’t be alarmed when your presence is requested in a photo. Consider it a compliment! It’s perfectly innocent in most cases and is also usually aimed at women. You can always mention that you’re married and your husband won’t approve if you start to feel overwhelmed or annoyed. Fine with it? Then don’t forget to smile!

When in India be flexible about your plans and expectations. There will be certain things that will happen and certain things that will not. Here, a Yes does not always mean a Yes and getting a No from an Indian is next to impossible. To save your frustration about delays and cancellations, always have a Plan B ready. But fret not, whatever changes will happen to your initial plan, they will bring you to unforgettable experiences. India may not offer you what you were initially expecting, but it will surely offer you a memory of your lifetime. – Devesh, Footloose Dev

9. Don’t be Afraid to Stand your Ground

Though the way of the world teaches us to be extremely cautious when travelling alone, there should be little cause for concern while adventuring through India. The people are kind and more than anything simply curious about new faces. If you do find yourself in a situation where you are being harassed, don’t be afraid to stand up for yourself and be firm or even shout. The embarrassment alone will usually put an end to any negative behaviour.

10. Avoid Eating Street Food

The street food in India is notorious for causing some form of food poisoning or what has commonly become known as “Delhi Belly”. This usually only applies to the meat products, as it seems that foreigners have trouble breaking down this type of food. Overall you’ll find that the local cuisine is very affordable, so you shouldn’t have any trouble being able to afford to splurge at a fancier restaurant that’s more reputable amongst foreigners.

The most important piece of advice that I would give to a solo traveler through India would be to begin early and make sure of reaching the intended destination before dusk. Doing this would enable the traveler to find a budget place to stay and also minimize chances of trouble, by not travelling in the night. – Shubham, A boy who travels

Are you ready for your trip to India? Then book a solo tour today!   We’d love to know if you found our tips helpful and if we missed anything that should be on the list! 

Sebastian P.

From his hometown of Sydney, Australia, Sebastian has turned travel into a profession. Starting out as a tour guide in Sydney, he then moved to Europe to lead tours across the continent, before returning home where he continues inspiring others to find their own adventures.

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Traveling Solo in India? Read These Tips

By Sarah Khan

It’s just past sunset, and a wave of blinding yellow headlights flows past as I stand on a crowded corner in Mumbai , struggling to hail a rickshaw during rush hour. Most whiz by, occupied and oblivious to my plight; some pause and then zoom off when I tell them where I need to go. After 15 futile minutes, a man approaches me, face obscured by a helmet and the name of a food-delivery app, Swiggy, emblazoned on his shirt. Unasked, he waits with me and chases down rickshaw after rickshaw; when he finds one willing to take me, he makes sure I get in, nods, and rides off into the traffic on his scooter, at one with the blur of flashing lights.

This fleeting encounter from last week encapsulates so much of how I feel when I travel solo in India: being constantly catapulted from feeling vexed to blessed and back again.

I’ve roamed historic Fort Kochi, hiked in the ethereal terrain of Hampi , holed up amid the Portuguese casas in Goa , and found myself at a house party in the Andaman Islands, all while traveling on my own. And whenever I post pictures from those trips on social media, I’m inundated with messages from women, all asking the same thing: Do you really feel safe traveling by yourself in India?

It’s a valid concern. Last summer, a Thomson Reuters Foundation survey gave India the far-from-commendable title of world’s most dangerous country for women —the country is racked by high numbers of rape and sexual violence, and horrifying stories involving local women and tourists alike regularly make headlines.

It took me awhile to feel comfortable traveling within India on my own, and not only because of the shocking news reports. I come to India every year and while I feel completely at ease, it’s also a place where I’ve been coddled by family, and never really felt independent—my grandmother insisted I travel with a driver or be accompanied by the cook, even if I just wanted to go to the grocery store two doors down to buy a bag of chips. The result: I found myself feeling more comfortable navigating Europe, Africa, or South America on my own than I did a country that I knew so well.

In recent years I’ve made a concerted effort to explore different corners of India—and if no one was able to join me, I forged out on my own. I’ve come a long way since I last wrote about this topic six years ago. Exploring the different faces of this massive country, at once so vast and yet so intimately familiar, has resulted in some of the most exhilarating travel experiences of my life...but it hasn't been without challenges. Here are some precautions I take to help me feel comfortable:

I never fully wing it in India: I book flights that arrive during the day, and have a hotel and some activities arranged in advance. I usually use Uber to get around, but in times where I might be traveling long distances or late at night (people regularly advise me not to take Ubers after dark in Delhi, for instance), I’ll consider booking a hotel car or hiring a driver for the day through a travel agent. If you’re coming from the U.S., booking nice hotels and hiring a car and driver or a private guide can be much more affordable than in other parts of the world—often around $30 for a full day. Guided tours are always a great way to both get your bearings and get some company—including fellow travelers you can make plans with after the tour. I also dress appropriately for each place: anything goes in a city like Mumbai, but you’ll want to keep your legs and shoulders covered in more conservative areas.

Whenever I canvas social media for tips, it inevitably leads to introductions to friends-of-friends. I’ve hung out with people in Mumbai, Delhi, Goa, and Jaipur through social media introductions, and was even invited to a friend’s friend’s sister’s home for biryani in the suburbs of Kochi. (This was also how I wound up getting invited to that party in the Andamans, in one of the coolest houses I’ve ever been to.) But use social media wisely—I always later-gram my posts, even my Instagram Stories, after I’ve left a place.

Use a local SIM card

SIM cards are incredibly cheap in India—I paid $7 to get unlimited calling, texting, and 1.5GB of data per day for three months—and having a local number makes it easier to connect with drivers. Plus, while airports and restaurants often have free Wi-Fi, which is key for staying in touch and plotting your next steps, you often need a local number to log in. Look for stands from providers like Airtel, Vodafone, and Jio at the airport.

Keep your guard up

This goes without saying and applies anywhere. Every person and every place is different, so you should stick to your comfort zone and extricate yourself from any situation that doesn’t feel right for you. I’ll be honest: A lot of my comfort level in traveling solo in India comes from the fact that I look Indian, dress Indian, and speak Hindi, so I don’t stand out as much as other travelers might. Mariellen Ward, a Canadian travel writer who blogs at Breathedreamgo , currently lives in Rishikesh and often shares her tips for traveling solo in India , gleaned from more than a decade of travel across the region. “Foreign women, perhaps especially blonde women like me, are a major attraction in India and you sometimes draw a lot of attention. It can be unnerving,” she says. “Most of the time, it's just innocent curiosity.” She encourages women to back out of any situation that doesn’t feel right, even if you have to be abrupt, and I agree: My intuition is my most important defense—even if a situation most likely seems fine, if I don’t feel good about it, I turn around and leave.

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India Travel Advisory

Travel advisory june 23, 2023, india - level 2: exercise increased caution.

Reissued with updates to health information.

Exercise increased caution in India due to crime and terrorism.

Do not travel to:

• The union territory of Jammu and Kashmir (except the eastern Ladakh region and its capital, Leh) due to terrorism and civil unrest .
• Within 10 km of the India-Pakistan border due to the potential for armed conflict .

Country Summary : Indian authorities report rape is one of the fastest growing crimes in India. Violent crime, such as sexual assault, has occurred at tourist sites and in other locations.

Terrorists may attack with little or no warning, targeting tourist locations, transportation hubs, markets/shopping malls, and government facilities.

The U.S. government has limited ability to provide emergency services to U.S. citizens in rural areas from eastern Maharashtra and northern Telangana through western West Bengal as U.S. government employees must obtain special authorization to travel to these areas.

Read the country information page for additional information on travel to India.

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) has determined India has a moderate level of COVID-19.  Visit the CDC page for the latest Travel Health Information related to your travel.

If you decide to travel to India:

• Do not travel alone, particularly if you are a woman. Visit our website for Women Travelers .
• Review your personal security plans and remain alert to your surroundings.
• Enroll in the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program ( STEP ) to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Follow the Department of State on Facebook and Twitter .
• Review the  Country Security Report for India.
• Prepare a contingency plan for emergency situations. Review the Traveler’s Checklist .

Union Territory of Jammu and Kashmir – Level 4: Do Not Travel

Terrorist attacks and violent civil unrest are possible in the union territory of Jammu and Kashmir. Avoid all travel to this state (with the exception of visits to the eastern Ladakh region and its capital, Leh). Sporadic violence occurs particularly along the Line of Control (LOC) separating India and Pakistan, and in tourist destinations in the Kashmir Valley: Srinagar, Gulmarg, and Pahalgam. The Indian government prohibits foreign tourists from visiting certain areas along the LOC.

Visit our website for Travel to High-Risk Areas .

India-Pakistan Border – Level 4: Do Not Travel

India and Pakistan maintain a strong military presence on both sides of the border. The only official India-Pakistan border crossing point for persons who are not citizens of India or Pakistan is in the state of Punjab between Attari, India, and Wagah, Pakistan. The border crossing is usually open but confirm the current status of the border crossing prior to commencing travel. A Pakistani visa is required to enter Pakistan. Only U.S. citizens residing in India may apply for a Pakistani visa in India. Otherwise apply for a Pakistani visa in your country of residence before traveling to India.

Northeastern States – Level 4: Do Not Travel

Incidents of violence by ethnic insurgent groups, including bombings of buses, trains, rail lines, and markets, occur occasionally in the northeast.

U.S. government employees at the U.S. Embassy and Consulates in India are prohibited from traveling to the states of Assam, Arunachal Pradesh, Mizoram, Nagaland, Meghalaya, Tripura, and Manipur without special authorization from the U.S. Consulate General in Kolkata.

Central and East India – Level 4: Do Not Travel

Maoist extremist groups, or “Naxalites,” are active in a large swath of India from eastern Maharashtra and northern Telangana through western West Bengal, particularly in rural parts of Chhattisgarh and Jharkhand and on the borders of Telangana, Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, West Bengal, and Odisha. The Naxalites have conducted frequent terrorist attacks on local police, paramilitary forces, and government officials.

Due to the fluid nature of the threat, all U.S. government travelers to states with Naxalite activity must receive special authorization from the U.S. consulate responsible for the area to be visited. U.S. officials traveling only to the capital cities in these states do not need prior authorization.

Visit our website for Travel to High-Risk Areas . 

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Why It's Difficult for Men to Travel Solo in India

"It is difficult for a single man to travel in India."

This statement might amaze some people, feel cringeworthy to somebody else, and passed off as nonsense by a lot of people.

I know a lot of men who don't travel solo. When I ask them why not, the usual reasons are boredom, economy, responsibilities and more. But some of the prime reasons for men to subconsciously give up on solo travelling are general perceptions and inconsideration.

Before I tell you why it is difficult for a man to travel alone, I want to acknowledge just how difficult it is for women to travel by themselves.

However, here I want to highlight a few issues about solo male travelers that has been neglected by the travel industry so far:

The common perception about a solo male traveler

A. Shady/ Drug Peddler – Most men who backpack alone are usually seen by locals and authorities as shady men who might be into drugs or trading something illegal.

B. Suicidal – If not sinister, single men are easily recognized as depressed and suicidal. Thanks to movies, it's a common notion that men go out to travel the world solo only after a major failure in personal or professional life.

C. Loser – Singlehood is not seen as a choice that a man can make, it is seen as an inability to find a partner and friends. Thus, single male travelers are often judged as losers with no purpose in life.

D. Perverts – The most common perception of a single man who travels is that he is looking for sex, and wouldn't miss an opportunity of getting laid. Furthermore, people think every time he talks to a female, he's out there building more such opportunities.

E. Stingy Patrons – Single men are seen as stingy folks who wouldn't spend on premium services, souvenirs and local goods. The local sellers, thus, find them to be not worth their time.

How does the perception affect men?

1. Difficulty in finding hotels – When it comes to renting a room, we're last on the last to get rooms at hotels and home stays. Even if they have vacant rooms, they sometimes bluntly tell the traveler that they have no rooms.

2. Poor treatment at restaurants – Most restaurants have a corner seat for the single men, facing a wall or a glass looking outside. After you have ordered here, you would be the last one to be serviced as you are a low investment for the restaurant unless, of course, you tell them that you are a social media influencer.

3. No Stag Entry – When it comes to nightlife, it is the worst. Stag males are either charged higher at most of the pubs, or not allowed. Also, they do not get any freebies or complimentary drinks.

4. Few tour packages for single men – There are tour packages for families, couples, solo women and people with pets. But there are very few tour packages for single men. So you either have to find a partner or plan your own trip.

5. Hostels prefer white men – Finding a bunk bed in a hostel is a cheap and cool way to travel. However, most hipster places have a hierarchy of preference they give – white female, white male, brown women (if any) and then brown men. Because apparently, brown men are the worst.

6. Lack of activities – Places providing entertainment focus on families, children and young women. Nobody wants to gather single men in an open space.

7. People don't stand up for solo male – In case of an emergency, it is very difficult for a man to find help. Let's say, if a man is found lying on a road, it is quite likely that people will think of him as a drunkard rather than a victim of a crime. Let's not even get started on what happens when such men have to ask for lift or money from strangers in an aftermath of robbery.

What can solo male travelers do to change the perception?

1. Groom well – To ensure that you seem decent, a little effort should be put into grooming yourself. Even if it is as basic as well kempt hair and properly trimmed beard.

2. Carry work IDs – A physical document always helps build trust with the authorities.

3. Book online – It is a smart idea to go around the place, look at the hotels physically, and book it online a few minutes before you check-in. Hotel folks do not cancel online bookings because of answerability to their managers and travel partners.

4. Understand physical space – Different places and different cultures have their own unmentioned rules of physical space. Take permissions from people before approaching them. Certain body gestures may not be always be deciphered accurately, so mind your body language.

5. Be a gentleman – The best way to be perceived right is to reflect right mannerism. Do not do anything that you wouldn't expect from a guest at your home.

A lot can change if the perception changes, let's begin the process.

Have you ever faced any difficulties traveling solo? Tell us in the comments below.

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Is India Safe to Travel? Women & Kids (Tips for 2024/2025)

As most say, traveling to India can be an adventure . You might have heard of bad hygiene, floating dead bodies in Varanasi, or sexual harassment in India. So, is India safe to travel?

As a traveler, yes , with the right behavior , India is safe to travel in most tourist cities . In this article, you can find some tips to make your trip safer and more worry-free.

• Is India Safe Now?
• Is India Safe for Solo and Women Travelers?
• Is India Safe for Families and Kids?

The Safety of Popular Cities in India

Is india safe to travel right now.

Yes, you can travel safely to major tourist cities, such as New Delhi , Agra , and Goa . But northern borders or conflict areas like Kashmir and Jammu are currently not recommended due to occasional terrorist attacks.

Muggings and kidnappings rarely happen in tourist areas, so if you just visit the attractions, you should be perfectly safe. By strictly following general safety rules , you can avoid pickpockets and tourist scammers .

Is India Safe to Travel for Solo and Women Travelers?

Like any other country on the planet, India shares certain problems for solo and women travelers. But some precautions are helpful to minimize the potential danger.

Plan Your Tour Well Before You Go

Uncertainty will increase the risks of being targeted during your travel. Preparing well also makes your tour less stressful : design your routes well, search for reputable hotels, and find high-quality restaurants. More tips about How to Plan a Trip to India >>>

Travel with a Local Guide

Booking a guide is another way to stay safe. Local guides know very well how the local society operates, and can therefore be a great help in avoiding potential troubles . An experienced guide can also offer deep insights into local culture, use the tricks of the trade to avoid crowds , and save you the hassle of asking directions and struggling with communication.

Discover real reviews of Highlights Travel Family 's best-rated service across trusted platforms.

Avoid the Late Hours

Indian cities now have some great nightlife. From concept restaurants and themed bars to a line-up of acclaimed arts performances, evening options are in abundance. However, a solo night out in India is with risks .

Besides, try to avoid late-night flights or trains . If your schedule is not flexible, you'd be best to pre-book a private transfer from your hotel or contact us for worry-free transport.

Don't Go Too Far off the Beaten Path

Having exploratory adventures might also put you in danger. In remote areas, you would hardly find any help due to the language barrier. A phone signal might be not available either. If possible, travel with trusted (local) friends or contact us for a customized tour if you would like to explore areas away from the beaten path.

Use Flights and Private Transfers as Much as Possible

When travelling around India, booking a flight is the safest and most comfortable way to travel between cities.

When you choose other public transportation, you'd better stay alert and protect your valuables. Local buses are not suggested , even if you are a seasoned traveler. It would be hard for you to keep track of where you are, as there are no English signs or arrival announcements. check more transportation info in India>>>

Keep Yourself Covered Up

In India, women are conservative, and they are expected to stay covered up. Wearing tight-fitting clothing or shorts could be regarded as sexual seduction . To prevent potential problems, you're suggested to wear ankle-length skirts and tops covering the shoulders. Wearing Indian clothing allows you to blend in better and stay covered as well.

Keep Your Distance from Men

Locals are friendly and hospitable. As foreigners, you will receive plenty of attention because of their curiosity .

To avoid misunderstandings or unwanted attention, you should not be too friendly with men who approach you at tourist sites or with hotel staff. Instead, strike up conversations with the women. Even on trains, it is rare to see an Indian woman talk to a strange man unless she is with her husband.

Is India Safe to Travel for Families and Kids?

Yes, India is a safe country to spend some quality family time in. Besides planning your tour well, here are some extra tips for you.

Carefully Select Where to Eat

Food safety is a frequent problem when traveling in India, especially for the elderly and children with weaker stomachs, as hygiene is sometimes quite obviously not as good as in developed countries.

You're suggested to choose well-reviewed restaurants , try to eat hot freshly-cooked food , and drink bottled water with a sealed top . For salads and fruits, just stick to those washed or peeled by yourself.

Be Cautious about Stray Dogs and Wild Monkeys

In India, stray dogs and wild monkeys are commonly seen in the streets, attractions, and temples. Some of them might be aggressive or carry diseases . It is better to keep your kids away from them.

If your kids are interested in wildlife, you can read more about the best places to spot tigers in India.

Pack Some Common Medicine from Home

If you get ill or injured in India, you can easily get treatment in major cities . Common drugs can be found in local pharmacies in the big metropolises. Carrying some medicine from home is helpful too to deal with some emergencies .

Most popular tourist cities are fairly safe to travel to, such as Delhi, Agra, Rajasthan, Kerala, Goa, Mumbai, etc.

Is Delhi Safe to Travel?

Delhi does have a high crime rate like most other highly-populated cities in the world. But it is safe to travel in most tourist areas .

As the capital of India, Delhi houses many important national government offices, and so it has strict security checks and maintains a heavy police presence . You can travel freely, but you must follow some safety precautions that are now common in high terrorism risk areas, like not leaving belongings unattended.

When visiting crowded train stations or bustling markets , like Chandni Chowk, you'd better keep your valuables out of sight and out of easy reach to deter pickpockets.

Local traffic is quite chaotic , so please take care when you cross the road.

Although Delhi has a vibrant nightlife that many travelers like to enjoy, do avoid walking around the city in the late hours as much as possible. Staying in central Delhi and south Delhi is safer and more comfortable, and most travelers choose these areas. The backpacker areas like Paharganj, however, are not recommended .

See how to plan your Delhi trip safely >>>

Is Mumbai Safe to Travel?

Mumbai has a reputation for being one of the most unsafe cities in India. Petty crime is more frequent in this densely-populated city. However, most tourist areas in Mumbai are safe for foreign visitors if you follow the general safety principles talked about here.

During your visit, you should travel with caution in crowded places and when crossing the roads. For first-timers , Colaba, Churchgate Fort, and Marine Drive in South Mumbai are much safer places to stay.

Is Kerala Safe to Travel?

Being 'God's Own Country', Kerala is one of the safest places in India. And Cochin is one of the safest places to go in Kerala. Roads are well-maintained and people are friendly and well-educated. If you visit, stay at Fort Kochi and Wellington Island for the best conditions.

As one of the cleanest states in India, Kerala has better hygiene. However, street food in a wet market and tap water never deserve a try, especially for older travelers, young kids, and anyone with a vulnerable stomach.

Is Goa Safe to Travel?

Goa is known as a paradise of night parties and beaches. You can travel safely and freely, but it's still not suggested that you hang out past midnight, especially if you are a woman traveler. Meanwhile, a one-piece or tankini is better on public beaches due to the local culture. Bikinis are more suitable on private beaches.

If you're travelling with young kids, South Goa is safer for beach activities because of calmer waters and quieter beaches.

Travel Safely with Us

Safety is the basic ingredient for an enjoyable trip! Book with us to create a trouble-free India tour, tailor-made to reduce risk and to suit your needs. You will be escorted by careful and wise local guides with private transport. An Asia Highlights travel expert will always be on call for 24/7 live support.

Here are some sample itineraries for your reference:

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• 12-Day Family Holiday in India
• 14-Day Classic Rajasthan Tour

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• India Weather & Best Places to Visit in April 2024
• Weather in India in May 2024 & Travel Tips for First-Timers
• Weather in India in June 2024: Temperatures & Travel Tips
• Weather in India in July 2024: Temperatures & Travel Tips
• Weather in India in August 2024: Temperatures & Travel Tips
• September Weather in India & Tips (Places+Crowds) 2024
• October Weather in India & Tips (Places+Crowds) 2024
• Weather and Where to Go in India in November 2024
• Weather in India in December 2024 & Tips for First Visits

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From travel safety to visa requirements, discover the best tips for traveling to India

• Mumbai, India
• Culture and Etiquette in India
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• Getting around India: Transportation Tips
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Before your trip, make sure you read up on the essential information for India travel.

Crime and personal safety

Lgbt travellers in india, women in india, travelling with children in india, travellers with disabilities, drug laws in india, money and costs, electricity, tourist information.

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Tailor-made travel itineraries for India, created by local experts

13 days  / from 1800 USD

A Trek Through Ladakh's Markha Valley

Trek through the Markha Valley, taking in the jaw-dropping Himalayan landscape, camp in traditional mountain villages, and discover hilltop monasteries. This unique journey combines the culture of the Buddhist faith with the natural beauty of the mountains and the hustle and bustle of Delhi.

15 days  / from 2745 USD

Rajasthan: The Land of Kings

Experience the Land of Kings in luxury.This trip around Rajasthan takes you to Jaipur's palaces, sacred pilgrimage sites and deep into the desert hills. Breathe in the excitement of Delhi and visit the Taj Mahal. Then come nightfall, lay your head to rest in former royal palaces and magical forts.

6 days  / from 785 USD

The Holy City of Varanasi

The flat, sunburnt plains of the Ganges River are India's breadbasket: a densely populated area, it is home to many of the country's greatest sights. See Delhi and all its treasures, then fly to Varanasi, the most sacred stretch of the Ganges and one of India's most intense and atmospheric places.

Tailor-made trips for   India

In spite of the crushing poverty and the yawning gulf between rich and poor, India is, on the whole, a safe country in which to travel. As a tourist, however, you are an obvious target for the tiny number of thieves (who may include some of your fellow travellers), and stand to face serious problems if you do lose your passport and money or bank cards. Common sense, therefore, suggests a few precautions.

Beware of crowded locations, such as packed buses or trains, in which it is easy for pickpockets to operate – slashing pockets or bags with razor blades is not unheard of in certain locations, and itching powder is sometimes used to distract the unwary. Don’t leave valuables unattended on the beach when you go for a swim; backpacks in dormitory accommodation are also obvious targets, as is luggage on the roof of buses. Even monkeys rate a mention here, since it’s not unknown for them to steal things from hotel rooms with open windows, or even to snatch bags from unsuspecting shoulders.

Budget travellers would do well to carry a padlock, as these are usually used to secure the doors of cheap hotel rooms and it’s reassuring to know you have the only key. You can also use them to lock your bag to seats or racks in trains, for which a length of chain also comes in handy. Don’t put valuables in your luggage but keep them with you at all times. If your baggage is on the roof of a bus, make sure it is well secured. On trains and buses, the prime time for theft is just before you leave, so keep a particular eye on your gear then, beware of deliberate diversions, and don’t put your belongings next to open windows. Remember that routes popular with tourists tend to be popular with thieves too. Druggings leading to theft and worse are rare but not unheard of, so you are best advised to politely refuse food and drink from fellow passengers or passing strangers, unless you are completely confident it’s the family picnic you are sharing or have seen the food purchased from a vendor.

However, don’t get paranoid; the best way of enjoying the country is to stay relaxed but with your wits about you. Crime levels in India are a long way below those of Western countries and violent crime against tourists is almost unheard of. Virtually none of the people who approach you on the street intend any harm: most want to sell you something (though this is not always made apparent immediately), some want to practise their English, others to chat you up, while more than a few just want to add your address to their book or have a snap taken with you. Anyone offering wonderful-sounding moneymaking schemes, however, is almost certain to be a con artist.

If you do feel threatened, it’s worth looking for help. Tourism police are found sitting in clearly marked booths in the main railway stations, especially in big tourist centres, where they will also have a booth in the main bus station. In addition, they may have a marked booth outside major tourist sites.

Be wary of credit-card fraud ; a credit card can be used to make duplicate forms by which your account is then billed for fictitious transactions, so don’t let shops or restaurants take your card away to process – insist they do it in front of you or follow them to the point of transaction.

It’s not a bad idea to keep US$200 or so separately from the rest of your money, along with your insurance policy number and phone number for claims, and a photocopy of the pages in your passport containing personal data and your Indian visa. This will cover you in case you do lose all your valuables.

If the worst happens and you get robbed, the first thing to do is report the theft as soon as possible to the local police. They are very unlikely to recover your belongings but you need a report from them in order to claim on your travel insurance. Dress smartly and expect an uphill battle – city cops in particular tend to be jaded from too many insurance scams.

Losing your passport is a real hassle, but does not necessarily mean the end of your trip. First, report the loss immediately to the police, who will issue you with the all-important “complaint form” that you need to be able to travel around and check into hotels, as well as claim back any expenses incurred in replacing your passport from your insurer. The next thing to do is telephone your nearest embassy or consulate in India. Normally, passports have to be applied for and collected in person, but if you are stranded, it is usually possible to arrange to receive the necessary forms in the post. However, you still have to go to the embassy or consulate to pick up your new passport. Emergency passports are the cheapest form of replacement, but are normally only valid for the few days of your return flight. If you’re not sure when you’re leaving India, you’ll have to obtain a more costly full passport; these can only be issued by high commissions, embassies and larger consulates, although they can be arranged through consulates in Chennai, Kolkata, Mumbai or Panjim (Goa), and in the case of the UK, Bengaluru, Hyderabad and Ahmedabad.

Homosexuality is not generally open or accepted in India, and in 2013 was once again made illegal , following a decision by the conservative Modi govern­ment to reverse a 2009 declaration by the High Court that the Victorian ban on gay sex between consenting adults was unconstitutional. As of 2016, following various protests, the matter was under review by the court again. Prejudice is still ingrained, however, especially in conservative areas such as Rajasthan.

For lesbians , making contacts is difficult; even the Indian women’s movement does not readily promote lesbianism as an issue that needs confronting. The only public faces of a hidden scene are the few organizations in major cities (see below). For gay men , homosexuality is no longer solely the preserve of the alternative scene of actors and artists, and is increasingly accepted by the upper classes, though Mumbai remains much more a centre for gay life than Delhi, let alone traditionalist Rajasthan. Despite the legal uncertainties, however, gay pride events and clubs are becoming more common in many cities; in recent years Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Chennai and some smaller cities have all hosted prides.

One transgender group of people you may come across are hijras , who were officially recognized as third gender by the Supreme Court in 2014. Many hijras are born with genitals that are neither fully male nor female, but some are male-to-female transsexual. They live in their own “families” and have a niche in Indian society, but not an easy one. At weddings, their presence is supposed to bring good luck, and they are usually given baksheesh for putting in a brief appearance. Generally, however, they have a low social status, face widespread discrimination, and many make a living by begging or prostitution.

Gay and lesbian contacts and resources

Chennai Dost Useful website aimed at the LGBT community in Chennai.

Galva-108 Interesting website set up by gay and lesbian Vaishnavas and Hindus.

Gay Bombay Comprehensive online resource for the LGBT community in Mumbai.

Gay Delhi Weekly social meetings and other events for gay men in Delhi.

Humsafar Trust Set up to promote safe sex among gay men, with lots of links and up-to-date information.

Indian Dost LGBT networking and info.

Outright Action International Latest news on the human rights situation for LGBT people worldwide, including regular bulletins on India.

Purple Dragon (662 238 3227) Thai-based tour operator offering various gay-friendly tours of India and other Asian countries.

Trikone Organization campaigning for LGBT rights in South Asia.

India is not a country that provides huge obstacles to women travellers . In the days of the Raj. many upper-class women travelled through India alone, as did the female flower children of the hippie era. Plenty of women travel solo today, but few get through their trip without any hassle, so it’s good to be prepared.

Indian streets are often dominated by male groups – something that may take a bit of getting used to, particularly if you find yourself subjected to incessant staring, whistling and name calling. This can usually be stopped by ignoring the gaze and quickly moving on, or by firmly telling the offender to stop looking at you. Most of your fellow travellers on trains and buses will be men, who may start up most unwelcome conversations about sex, divorce and the freedom of relationships in the West. These cannot often be avoided, but demonstrating too much enthusiasm to discuss such topics can lure men into thinking that you are easy about sex, and the situation could become threatening. At its worst in larger cities, all this can become very tiring. You can get round it to a certain extent by joining women in public places, and you’ll notice an immense difference if you join up with a male travelling companion. In this case, expect Indian men to approach him (assumed, of course, to be your husband – an assumption it is sometimes advantageous to go along with) and talk to him about you quite happily as if you were not there. Beware, however, if you are (or look) of Indian origin with a non-Indian male companion: this may well cause you harassment, as you might be seen to have brought shame on your family by adopting the loose morals of the West.

In addition to staring and suggestive comments and looks, sexual harassment , or “Eve teasing” as it is bizarrely known, is likely to be a nuisance, but not generally a threat. Expect to get groped in crowds and to have men “accidentally” squeeze past you at any opportunity. It tends to be worse in cities than in small towns and villages but being followed can be a real problem wherever you are.

In addition to staring and suggestive comments and looks, sexual harassment , or “Eve teasing” as it is bizarrely known, is likely to be a nuisance, but not generally a threat. It’s not unlikely that you will get groped in crowds and not unusual to have men “accidentally” squeeze past you at any opportunity. It tends to be worse in cities than in small towns and villages, but being followed can be a real problem wherever you are.

In time you’ll learn to gauge a situation – sometimes wandering around on your own may attract so much unwanted attention that you may prefer to stay in one place until you’ve recharged your batteries or your male fan club has moved on. It’s always best to dress modestly – a salwar kameez is perfect, as is any baggy clothing – and, with the exception of one or two cosmopolitan areas of Mumbai, refrain from smoking or drinking in public.

If a loud, firm “no” fails to have the desired effect, returning an unwanted touch with a punch or slap is perfectly in order (Indian women often become aggressive when offended), and does serve to vent a little frustration. It should also attract attention and urge someone to help you, or at least deal with the offending man – a man transgressing social norms is always out of line and any passer-by will want to let him know it.

Going to watch a Bollywood movie at the cinema is a fun and essential part of your trip to India but, at cheap cinemas especially, such an occasion is rarely without hassle. If you do go to the cinema, it’s best to go to an upmarket theatre, or at least to go with a group of people and sit in the balcony area, where it’s a bit more expensive but the crowd is much more sedate.

Violent sexual assaults on tourists are extremely rare but the number of reported cases of rape is slowly rising, and you should always take precautions: avoid quiet, dimly lit streets and alleys at night, as well as remote rural locations; if you find a trustworthy rickshaw/taxi driver in the day keep him for the night journey; and try to get someone to accompany you to your hotel whenever possible. While Indian women are still quite timid about reporting rape – it is considered as much a disgrace to the victim as to the perpetrator – Western victims should always report it to the police. Letting other tourists, or locals, know of any incident in the hope that pressure from the community may uncover the offender and see him brought to justice is also likely to be effective.

The practicalities of travel take on a new dimension for lone women travellers. In hotels watch out for “peep-holes” in your door (and in common bathrooms), and be sure to cover your window when changing and when sleeping. Often, though, you can turn your gender to your advantage. For example, on inter-city buses the driver and conductor will often take you under their wing, and there will be countless other instances of kindness wherever you travel. You’ll be more welcome in some private houses than a group of Western males, and may find yourself learning the finer points of Indian cooking around the family’s clay stove. Women frequently get preference at bus and railway stations where they can join a separate “ladies’ queue”, and use ladies’ waiting rooms. On overnight trains the enclosed ladies’ compartments are peaceful havens (unless filled with noisy children); you could also try to share a berth section with a family where you are usually drawn into the security of the group and are less exposed to lustful gazes. In hotels watch out for “peep-holes” in your door (and in the common bathrooms), and be sure to cover your window when changing and when sleeping.

Lastly, bring your own supply of tampons , which are not widely available outside main cities.

Travelling with kids can be both challenging and rewarding. Indians are very tolerant of children so you can take them almost anywhere without restriction, and they always help break the ice with strangers. Most children will enjoy the vibrancy of just being in India, with festivals and temples likely to exert a special appeal. Similarly, you can’t go far wrong taking them to beaches and wildlife sanctuaries, although not all Indian zoos are very happy places; the one in Mysuru is an honourable exception. There are, however, relatively few attractions aimed especially at kids beyond a rash of rather cheesy family theme parks that have popped up in recent years, especially in areas popular with new Indian middle-class holidaymakers, such as the coast south of Chennai. On the other hand, the more modern museums are increasingly introducing interactive displays aimed at the young that are both educational and fun.

As for the difficulties of travel, the main problem with children, especially small ones, is their extra vulnerability. Even more than their parents, they need protection from the sun, unsafe drinking water, heat and unfamiliar food. All that chilli in particular may be a problem, even with older kids, if they’re not used to it. Remember too, that diarrhoea, perhaps just a nuisance to you, could be dangerous for a child: rehydration salts are vital if your child goes down with it. Make sure too, if possible, that your child is aware of the dangers of rabies; keep children away from animals and consider a rabies jab.

For babies, nappies (diapers) are available in most large towns at similar prices to the West, but it’s worth taking an additional pack in case of emergencies, and bringing sachets of Calpol or similar, which aren’t readily available in India. And if your baby is on powdered milk, it might be an idea to bring some of that: you can certainly get it in India, but it may not taste the same. Dried baby food could also be worth taking – any café or chaiwala should be able to supply you with boiled water.

For touring, hiking or walking, child-carrier backpacks are ideal; some even come with mosquito nets these days. As for luggage, bring as little as possible so you can manage the kids more easily. If your child is small enough, a fold-up buggy is also well worth packing, even if you no longer use a buggy at home, as kids tire so easily in the heat. If you want to cut down on long train or bus journeys by flying, remember that children under 2 travel for ten percent of the adult fare, and under-12s for half price.

Disability is common in India; many conditions that would be curable in the West, such as cataracts, are permanent disabilities here because people can’t afford the treatment. Those with disabilities are unlikely to receive the best treatment available, and the choice is usually between staying at home to be looked after by your family and going out on the street to beg for alms.

For travellers with a disability, this has its advantages and disadvantages. Disability doesn’t get the same embarrassed reaction from Indian people that it does from some able-bodied Westerners. On the other hand, you’ll be lucky to see a state-of-the-art wheelchair or a disabled loo, and the streets are full of all sorts of obstacles that would be hard for a blind or wheelchair-bound tourist to negotiate independently. Kerbs are often high, pavements uneven and littered, and ramps nonexistent. There are potholes all over the place and open sewers. Some of the more expensive hotels have ramps for the movement of luggage and equipment, but if that makes them accessible to wheelchairs, it is by accident rather than design. Nonetheless, the 1995 Persons with Disabilities Act specifies access for all to public buildings, and is sometimes enforced. A visit to Delhi by Professor Stephen Hawking in 2001 resulted in the appearance of ramps at several Delhi tourist sights including the Red Fort, Qutub Minar and Jantar Mantar, and most major Indian airports and metro systems have also been made a lot more accessible for chair users.

If you walk with difficulty, you will find India’s many street obstacles and steep stairs hard going. Another factor that can be a problem is the constant barrage of people proffering things (hard to wave aside if you are, for instance, on crutches), and all that queueing, not to mention heat, will take it out of you if you have a condition that makes you tire quickly. A light, folding camp-stool is one thing that could be invaluable if you have limited walking or standing power.

Then again, Indian people are likely to be very helpful if, for example, you need their help getting on and off buses or up stairs. Taxis and rickshaws are easily affordable and very adaptable; if you rent one for a day, the driver is certain to help you on and off, and perhaps even around the sites you visit. If you employ a guide, they may also be prepared to help you with steps and obstacles.

If complete independence is out of the question, going with an able-bodied companion might be on the cards. There are some specialist operators for tourists with limited mobility – Enable Holidays offer a good “Golden Triangle” tour, for example – and some mainstream package-tour operators try to cater for travellers with disabilities but you should always contact any operator and discuss your exact needs with them before making a booking. You should also make sure you are covered by any insurance policy you take out.

For more information about disability issues in India, check the government website disabilityaffairs.gov.in .

India is a centre for the production of cannabis and to a lesser extent opium, and derivatives of these drugs are widely available. Charas (hashish) is produced all along the Himalayas, while ganja (marijuana) is the more common form in the south. The use of cannabis is frowned upon by respectable Indians – if you see anyone in a movie smoking a chillum, you can be sure it’s the baddie. Sadhus, on the other hand, are allowed to smoke it legally as part of their religious devotion to Shiva, who is said to have originally discovered its narcotic properties.

Bhang (a preparation made from marijuana leaves, which it is claimed sometimes contains added hallucinogenic ingredients such as datura) is legal and widely available in bhang shops: it is used to make sweets and drinks such as the notoriously potent bhang lassis which have waylaid many an unwary traveller. Bhang shops also frequently sell ganja, low-quality charas and opium (chandu), mainly from Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh. Opium derivatives morphine and heroin are widespread too, with addiction an increasing problem among the urban poor. “Brown sugar” that you may be offered on the street is number-three heroin; Punjab has become notorious for its heroin problem, the drugs smuggled across the border from Pakistan. Use of other illegal drugs such as LSD, ecstasy and cocaine is largely confined to tourists in party locations such as Goa.

All of these drugs except bhang are strictly controlled under Indian law. Anyone arrested with less than five grams of cannabis, which they are able to prove is for their own use, is liable to a six-month maximum, but cases can take years to come to trial (two is normal, and eight not unheard of). Police raids and searches are particularly common in the Kullu and Parvati valleys (and on vehicles leaving them, especially at harvest time) and the beach areas of Goa. “Paying a fine now” may be possible on arrest (though it will probably mean all the money you have), but once you are booked in at the station, your chances are slim; a minority of the population languishing in Indian jails are foreigners on drugs charges.

For Western visitors, India is still one of the world’s less expensive countries. A little foreign currency can go a long way, and you can be confident of getting good value for your money, whether you’re setting out to keep your budget to a minimum or to enjoy the opportunities that spending a bit more will make possible.

What you spend obviously depends on where you go, where you stay, how you get around, what you eat and what you buy. Outside the tourist resorts of Kerala and Goa, you can still survive on a budget of as little as ₹1000 (£10/US$15) per day, if you eat in local dhabas , stay in the cheapest hotels and don’t travel too much. In reality, most backpackers nowadays tend to spend at least double that. On ₹2500 (£25/US$37.50) per day you’ll be able to afford comfortable mid-range hotels, and meals in smarter restaurants, regular rickshaw or taxi rides and entrance fees to monuments. Spend over ₹6000 (£60/US$90) per day and you can stay in smart hotels, eat in the top restaurants, travel first class on trains and afford chauffeur-driven cars. Although it is possible to travel very comfortably in India, it’s also possible to spend a great deal of money, if you want to experience the very best the country has to offer, and there are plenty of hotels now charging US$500 per night, sometimes even more.

Budget accommodation is still very good value, however. Cheap double rooms start from around ₹400 (£4/US$6) per night, while a no-frills vegetarian meal in an ordinary restaurant will typically cost no more than ₹100. Long-distance transport can work out to be phenomenally good value if you stick to state buses and standard non-a/c classes on trains, but soon starts to add up if you opt for air-conditioned carriages on the super-fast inter-city services. The 200km trip from Delhi to Agra, for example, can cost anywhere from ₹73 (£0.73/US$1.10) in second-class unreserved up to ₹1203 (£12/US$18) in AC first-class.

Where you are also makes a difference: Mumbai is notoriously pricey, especially for accommodation, and Delhi is also substantially more expensive than most parts of the country. Upscale visitor accommodation in Kerala costs almost as much as it does in Europe, although fierce competition tends to keep prices at the lower end of the budget spectrum down in the tourist towns of Rajasthan. Out in the sticks, on the other hand, and particularly away from your fellow tourists, you will often find things incredibly cheap, though your choice will obviously be more limited.

Don’t make any rigid assumptions at the outset of a long trip that your money will last for a certain number of weeks or months. On any one day it may be possible to spend very little, but cumulatively you won’t be doing yourself any favours if you don’t make sure you keep yourself well rested and properly fed. As a foreigner in India, you will find yourself penalized by double-tier entry prices to museums and historic sites as well as in upmarket hotels and airfares, both of which are levied at a higher rate and in dollars.

Some independent travellers tend to indulge in wild and highly competitive penny-pinching, which Indian people find rather pathetic – they have a fair idea of what you can earn at home. Bargain where appropriate, but don’t begrudge a few rupees to someone who is after all far worse off than you. Even if you get a bad deal on every rickshaw journey you make, it will only add a minuscule fraction to the cost of your trip. Remember what great value you are getting in most cases and that luxury items or services at home can be affordable here. At the same time, don’t pay well over the odds for something if you know what the going rate is. Thoughtless extra­vagance can, particularly in remote areas that see a disproportionate number of tourists, contribute to inflation, putting even basic goods and services beyond the reach of local people.

India’s unit of currency is the rupee, usually abbreviated ₹ and divided into a hundred paise. Almost all money is paper, with notes of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 500 and 1000 rupees. Coins in circulation are 1, 2, 5 and 10 rupees, the latter two gradually replacing the paper versions, plus (rarely seen) 50 paise. Note that it’s technically illegal to take rupees in or out of India (although they are widely available at overseas forexes), so you might want to wait until you arrive before changing money.

Banknotes, especially lower denominations, can get into a terrible state. Don’t accept torn banknotes, since no one else will be prepared to take them and you’ll be left saddled with the things, though you can change them at the Reserve Bank of India and large branches of other big banks. Don’t pass them on to beggars; they can’t use them either, so it amounts to an insult.

Large denominations can also be a problem, as change is usually in short supply. Many Indian people cannot afford to keep much lying around, and you shouldn’t necessarily expect shopkeepers or rickshaw-wallahs to have it (and they may – as may you – try to hold onto it if they do). Larger notes can be changed for smaller denominations at hotels and other suitable establishments.

ATMs, cards and travellers’ cheques

The easiest way to access your money in India is with plastic, though it’s a good idea to also have some backup in the form of cash. You will find ATMs at main banks in all major towns, cities and tourist areas, though your card issuer may well add a foreign transaction fee, and the Indian bank will also levy a small charge, generally around Rs25.

Your card issuer, and sometimes the ATM itself, imposes limits on the amount you may withdraw in a day – typically ₹10,000–20,000.

Credit cards are accepted for payment at major hotels, top restaurants, some shops and airline offices, but virtually nowhere else. American Express, MasterCard and Visa are the likeliest to be accepted. Beware of people making extra copies of the receipt, in order to fraudulently bill you later; always insist that the transaction is made before your eyes.

Visa, American Express and some other financial institutions offer prepaid cards that you can load up with credit before you leave home and use in ATMs like a debit card – effectively replacing the increasingly defunct travellers’ cheques.

One big downside of relying on plastic as your main access to cash, of course, is that cards can easily get lost or stolen, so take along a couple of alternatives if you can, keep an emergency stash of cash just in case, and make a note of your home bank’s telephone number and website addresses for emergencies.

US dollars are the easiest currency to convert, with euros and pounds sterling not far behind. Major hard currencies can be changed easily in tourist areas and big cities, less so elsewhere. If you enter the country with more than US$10,000 or the equivalent, you are supposed to fill in a currency declaration form.

Changing money

Changing money in regular banks, especially government-run banks such as the State Bank of India (SBI), can be a time-consuming business, involving lots of form-filling and queueing at different counters, so it’s best to change substantial amounts at any one time. You’ll have no such problems, however, with private companies such as Thomas Cook, American Express or forex agents. Major cities and main tourist centres usually have several licensed currency exchange bureaux; rates usually aren’t as good as at a bank but transactions are generally a lot quicker and there’s less paperwork to complete.

Outside banking hours (Mon–Fri 10am– 2/4pm, Sat 10am–noon), large hotels may change money, probably at a lower rate, and exchange bureaux have longer opening hours. Banks in the arrivals halls at most major airports stay open 24 hours.

Wherever you change money, hold on to exchange receipts (“encashment certificates”); they will be required if you want to change back any excess rupees when you leave the country and to buy air tickets and reserve train berths with rupees at special counters for foreigners. The State Bank of India now charges for tax clearance forms.

Tipping and baksheesh

As a well-off visitor you’ll be expected to be liberal with your tips . Low-paid workers in hotels and restaurants often accept lower pay than they should in the expectation of generous tips during the tourist season. Ten percent , or a simple rounding up, should be regarded as acceptable if you’ve received good service – more if the staff have really gone out of their way to be helpful. Taxi and auto-rickshaw drivers will not expect tips unless you’ve made unplanned diversions or stops. What to tip your driver at the end of long tours, however, is a trickier issue, especially if you’ve been forking out ₹150–200 for their daily allowance, as well as paying for meals. The simple answer is to give what you think they deserve, and what you can afford. Drivers working for tour operators, even more than hotel staff and waiters, depend on tips to get through the off-season (many are paid only ₹200–300 per day because their bosses know that foreign customers tend to tip well).

Alms giving (baksheesh) is common throughout India; people with disabilities and mutilations often congregate in city centres and popular resorts, where they survive from begging. In such cases a few coins up to ₹10–20 should be sufficient. Kids demanding money, pens, sweets or the like are a different case: yielding to any request only encourages them to pester others.

Opening hours

Standard shop opening hours in India are Monday to Saturday 9.30am to 6pm, with Sunday openings increasingly common. Most big stores, at any rate, keep those hours, while smaller shops vary from town to town, region to region, and one to another, but usually keep longer hours. Government tourist offices are open Monday to Friday 9.30am to 5pm, Saturday 9.30am to 1pm, closed on the second Saturday of the month; state-run tourist offices are likely to be open Monday to Friday 10am to 5pm.

Duty free allowance

Anyone over 17 can bring in one US quart (0.95 litre – but nobody’s going to quibble about the other 5ml) of spirits, or a bottle of wine and 250ml spirits; plus 200 cigarettes, or 50 cigars, or 250g tobacco. You may be required to register anything valuable on a tourist baggage re-export form to make sure you can take it home with you, and to fill in a currency declaration form if carrying more than US$10,000 or equivalent.

Generally 220V 50Hz AC, though direct current supplies also exist, so check before plugging in. Most sockets are triple round-pin (accepting European-size double round-pin plugs). British, Irish and Australasian plugs will need an adaptor, preferably universal; American and Canadian appliances will need a transformer too, unless multivoltage. Power cuts and voltage variations are very common; voltage stabilizers should be used to run sensitive appliances such as laptops.

It’s imperative that you take out proper travel insurance before setting off for India. A typical travel insurance policy usually provides cover for the loss of baggage, tickets and – up to a certain limit – cash, as well as cancellation or curtailment of your journey. Most of them exclude so-called dangerous sports unless an extra premium is paid: in India this can mean scuba diving, whitewater rafting, windsurfing and trekking with ropes, though probably not jeep safaris. Many policies can be chopped and changed to exclude coverage you don’t need – for example, sickness and accident benefits can often be excluded or included at will. If you do take medical coverage, ascertain whether benefits will be paid as treatment proceeds or only after return home, and whether there is a 24hr medical emergency number. When securing baggage cover, make sure that the per-article limit – typically under £500 – will cover your most valuable possession. If you need to make a claim, you should keep receipts for medicines and medical treatment, and in the event you have anything stolen, you must obtain an official statement from the police.

Internet access

Broadband has now reached more or less everywhere, leading to a proliferation of wi-fi connections. The majority of hotels and guesthouses, at least those in touristic areas, will offer wi-fi, usually free but occasionally chargeable; we have noted exceptions in our accommodation reviews. Many cafés and restaurants also have wi-fi facilities. As a result of wi-fi, the number of internet outlets has declined but you can usually still find somewhere with public computers in any sizeable town, charging from ₹20–40/hr in urban areas to as much as ₹300/hr in more remote places such as the Andaman Islands. Speeds can still be painfully slow and computers rather antiquated, making it difficult to load complex websites or to perform online transactions (like booking a train ticket).

For unlimited Wi-Fi on the go whilst travelling India, buy a Skyroam Solis , which works in 130+ countries at one flat daily rate, paid for on a pay-as-you-go basis. You can connect up to five devices at once. Prices start from as little as €5 a day.

Although some hotels have washing machines and independent launderettes are starting to appear, most places still send laundry to a dhobi , either in-house or nearby. The dhobi will take your dirty washing to a dhobi ghat , a public clothes-washing area (the bank of a river for example), where it is shown some old-fashioned discipline: separated, soaped and given a damn good thrashing to beat the dirt out of it. Then it is hung out to dry in the sun and taken to the ironing sheds where every garment is endowed with razor-sharp creases and then matched to its rightful owner by hidden cryptic markings. Your clothes will come back absolutely spotless, though this kind of violent treatment does take it out of them: buttons get lost and eventually the cloth starts to fray.

Left luggage

Most stations in India have “ cloakrooms ” (sometimes called parcel offices) for passengers to leave their baggage. These can be extremely handy if you want to go sightseeing in a town and move on the same day. In theory, you need a train ticket or Indrail pass to deposit luggage, but staff don’t always ask; they may, however, refuse to take your bag if you can’t lock it. If you lose your reclaim ticket expect a lot of bureaucracy before you can get your bag back. Many cloakrooms in large stations operate 24 hours but smaller ones may not. The standard charge is currently ₹15 for the first 24 hours, plus ₹20 per day afterwards.

Getting good maps of India , in India, can be difficult. The government – in an archaic suspicion of cartography, and in spite of clear coverage of the country on Google – forbids the sale of detailed maps of border areas, which includes the entire coastline.

It therefore makes sense to bring a full country map of India with you. Freytag & Berndt produce the best country map, while Nelles covers parts of the country with 1:1,500,000 regional maps. These are generally excellent, but cost a fortune if you buy the complete set. Their double-sided map of the Himalayas is useful for roads and planning and has some detail but is not sufficient as a trekking map. Ttk, a Chennai-based company, publishes basic state maps which are widely available in India, and in some specialized travel and map shops in the UK such as Stanfords; these are poorly drawn but useful for road distances. The Indian Railways map at the back of the publication Trains at a Glance is useful for planning railway journeys.

You can sometimes get larger-scale city maps from tourist offices, though Google Maps or OpenStreetMap are vastly superior (simply print them off at an internet café or before you leave home). Eicher has a growing series of glossy City Maps and city Road Maps produced in India and available at all good bookstores.

As for trekking maps , the US Army Map Service produced maps in the 1960s which, with a scale of 1:250,000, remain sufficiently accurate on topography, but are of course outdated on the latest road developments. Most other maps you can buy are based on these, and they’re still the best available for most of the Himalayan regions. Leomann Maps (1:200,000) also cover the northwest Himalayan regions. These are not contour maps and are therefore better for planning and basic reference than for trekking. The Survey of India publishes a rather poor 1:250,000 series for trekkers in the Uttarakhand Himalayas – simplified versions of their own infinitely more reliable maps, produced for the military, which are absolutely impossible for an outsider to get hold of.

Since the mobile phone revolution, privately run phone international direct-dialling facilities – STD/ISD (Standard Trunk Dialling/International Subscriber Dialling) places – have become far less common so you can’t always rely on finding one. In addition, calling from them will cost more than dialling from a mobile if you have an Indian SIM card. Most visitors bring their own phones and buy an Indian SIM to cover their trip.

SIM cards are sold through most cellphone shops and network outlets, though the process for obtaining one is rather complicated and can take up to 48 hours. You have to provide a photocopy of your passport (photo and visa pages), fill in a form and be registered at an Indian address, though the hotel you are staying in usually suffices. There is an initial connection fee ranging from ₹50 to ₹250, depending on the dealer and network.

Coverage varies from state to state, but the largest national network providers are best – Vodafone, Airtel and Idea. Once your retailer has unlocked your phone and you have paid for the initial card, it can be topped up (“re-charged” as it’s known) by amounts ranging from ₹10–1000, though only by paying specific amounts (check with the retailer) will you get the full amount in credits. Call charges to the UK and US from most Indian networks cost ₹2–3 per minute. Also, ask your card supplier to turn on the “do not disturb” option, or you’ll be plagued with spam calls and spam texts from the phone company.

Indian mobile numbers are ten-digit, starting with a 7, 8 or (most commonly) a 9. However, if you are calling from outside the state where the mobile is based (but not from abroad), you need to add a zero in front of that.

Calling an Indian mobile or landline from a UK landline, you can save a lot of money by dialling via a company such as Planet Talk , which requires no sign-up but uses an 0843 number, or better still by signing up cost-free with a VoIP provider such as 18185 . In the US you can make cheap calls via reasonable monthly deals on Phone.com .

Photography

Beware of pointing your camera at anything that might be considered “strategic”, including airports and anything military. Remember too that some people prefer not to be photographed, so it’s a good idea to ask before you take a snapshot of them. More likely, you’ll get people, especially kids, volunteering to pose and it’s quite common for Indians to ask you to be in their snaps. Almost all photo shops can now transfer digital images onto a memory stick or CD – useful in order to free up memory space.

Post can take anything from six days to three weeks to get to or from India, depending on where you are and the country you are posting to; ten days is about the norm. Most post offices are open Monday to Friday from 10am to 5pm and Saturday from 10am to noon, but town GPOs keep longer hours (usually Mon–Sat 9.30am–1pm & 2–5.30pm). Stamps are not expensive, but you’ll have to stick them on yourself as they tend not to be self-adhesive (every post office keeps a pot of evil-smelling glue for this purpose). Aerogrammes and postcards cost the same to anywhere in the world. Ideally, you should also have mail franked in front of you.

Sending a parcel from India can be a performance. First take it to a tailor to have it wrapped in cheap cotton cloth, stitched up and sealed with wax. Next, take it to the post office, fill in and attach the relevant customs forms, buy your stamps, see them franked and dispatch it. Surface mail is incredibly cheap, and takes an average of six months to arrive – it may take half, or four times that, however. It’s a good way to dump excess baggage and souvenirs, but don’t send anything fragile this way.

India is all in one time zone and remains the same year round: GMT+5hr 30min. This makes it 5hr 30min ahead of London, 10hr 30min ahead of New York, 13hr 30min ahead of LA, 4hr 30min behind Sydney and 6hr 30min behind New Zealand; however, daylight saving time in those places will change the difference by an hour. Indian time is referred to as IST (Indian Standard Time, which cynics refer to as “Indian stretchable time”).

Western-style toilets are becoming much more common in India now, especially in hotels and lodges in touristy areas, though you’ll probably still come across a few traditional “squat” toilets – basically a hole in the ground. Paper, if used, often goes in a bucket next to the loo rather than down it. Instead, Indians use a jug of water and their left hand or the hose provided, a method you may also come to prefer, but if you do use paper, keep some handy, especially if staying in basic accommodation or going too far off the beaten track. Travelling is especially difficult for women as facilities are limited or nonexistent, especially when travelling by road rather than by rail. However, toilets in the a/c carriages of trains are usually kept clean, as are those in mid-range and air-conditioned restaurants. The latest development is tourist toilets at every major historical site. For ₹5 you get water, mirrors, toilet paper and a clean sit-down loo.

The main tourist website for India is incredibleindia.org . The Indian government also maintains a number of tourist offices abroad , whose staff are usually helpful and knowledgeable; addresses and contact details can be found on bit.ly/IndiaTourismoffices . Other sources of information include the websites of Indian embassies and tourist offices, travel agents (who are in business for themselves, so their advice may not always be totally unbiased), and Indian Railways representatives abroad.

Inside India , both national and local governments run tourist information offices, providing general travel advice and handing out an array of printed material, from city maps to glossy leaflets on specific destinations. The Indian government’s tourist department, whose main offices are on Janpath in New Delhi and opposite Churchgate railway station in Mumbai, has branches in most regional capitals. These, however, operate independently of the state government information counters and their commercial bureaux are run by the state tourism development corporations, usually referred to by their initials (e.g. MPTDC in Madhya Pradesh, RTDC in Rajasthan, and so on), which offer a wide range of travel facilities, including guided tours, car rental and their own hotels.

Just to confuse things further, the Indian government’s tourist office has a corporate wing, too. The Indian Tourism Development Corporation (ITDC) is responsible for the Ashok chain of hotels and operates tour and travel services, frequently competing with its state counterparts.

There’s all sorts of information available about India online – one particularly good general site is indiamike.com , which features lively chat rooms, bulletin boards, photo archives and banks of members’ travel articles.

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Some people are less bothered by this sort of thing and welcome the challenges India throws up. For those less willing, there are group tours covering all areas and most budgets. From what you say, I think you'd be better looking there.

A man yes, a single woman, definitely not!

A single man, yes. A single woman, definitely not!!!

This topic has been closed to new posts due to inactivity.

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Why I Travel Alone in India as a Single Woman

Traveling alone as a woman in india is an act of rebellion. it needs to happen a lot more..

Sanjukta Basu

TED Fellows

My story began in 2011, when I met a man and fell for him. A world traveler and nomad, he would often leave the city with just a backpack and remain on the road for months. When he returned, he would tell me of his adventures: how he spent many nights traversing highways with truck drivers, how he lived in a village with no name, how he learned to farm.

The more I heard his tales, the more I wanted to embark on nomadic adventures of my own. But a single woman in India can’t travel like he could. Indian culture relegates women to the confines of home and makes public space unsafe for them. It denies them the right to access health, education, financial independence, the justice system and fun and entertainment.

India is not safe for a lone woman in public spaces, that much I knew. But just how unsafe? I wanted to find out myself. I wanted to push the limits and find out from firsthand experience whether or not it was possible for a single woman to travel and seek adventure in India. And I wanted to do it on a budget, because you can buy safety with money.

I created Single Woman Budget Traveller , a self-initiated, self-funded travel and photography research project to document my personal experience of accessing public space — as well as the relationship I observed between gender and public space — through photographs.

Around the time I started this project, Mumbai-based feminist scholars Shilpa Phadka, Shilpa Ranade and Samira Khan published the book Why Loiter? , which investigates how women from all classes engage with the public space in India. Ultimately, the book argues that in order to maximize their access to public space, women do not need “greater surveillance or protectionism,” but rather “the right to engage in risk.” Only by claiming the “right to risk,” they argue, can women truly claim citizenship.

With Single Woman Budget Traveller, I decided to take this risk.

I made a few rules for myself: travel by public transport, such as government buses, trains, shared cabs and rickshaws. No flying, no first-class trains or deluxe buses, no booking of exclusive private cabs. I would stay at budget hotels, eat at local food stalls, dhabas (roadside restaurants) and street vendors. No packaged tours organized by travel companies or even pre-bookings: I’d just go impromptu and explore. I chose a mix of popular destinations and offbeat places.

My first destinations were Tanakpur and Champawat, two lesser-known towns in Uttarakhand. It wasn’t easy. On the way, I encountered badly lit bus terminals and crowds of men who left little space for me to squeeze in.

But I overcame my fears in the first journey. I lost my inhibitions and began a process of unlearning that continued through several of my trips to places like Murshidabad, Ladakh, Pushkar, Varanasi. Some of these destinations were chosen for their inherent challenges. Pushkar , for example, is a very small town in Rajasthan, one of India’s most regressive and patriarchal states, which comes into the limelight only once a year during the Annual Pushkar Camel Fair . Thousands of tourists, villagers and traders — mostly male — gather at Pushkar during the fair, and it is considered one of the most dangerous places for women to visit.

Murshidabad is a small town in the state of West Bengal, the erstwhile capital of Bengal during Mughal times and the center of commerce and administration during British rule. It has lost its glory today and lying in ruins, so there is hardly any tourist activity there, which made it a challenge for me. Ladakh is a popular tourist destination, but is considered to be an exotic, unattainable destination that people often plan and wait for until they have enough savings to be able to make the trip. I simply decided one morning: I am going to Ladakh solo, on a budget. Indian tourists, especially women or men with family, mostly fly to Leh. I took a “2 day 1 night” back-breaking bus journey from Manali to Leh through the roughest terrains — an activity not meant for the feeble hearted.

B efore my trips, I was cautioned by friends and family about how difficult and risky it would be. But during my travels, I came to realize that a lot of the fear is in our minds. Except for a few unpleasant situations, I had great experiences. I met some wonderful people on the road who were curious about me, but not judgmental. An old village lady in Champawat even patted me on the back and said, “You are doing a great thing in life, there is no fun in marriage.” I bought cigarettes from tiny dark paan-bidi smoke shops at riverfront steps at 10.30 at night. (Women smoking is a huge taboo in India, and makeshift cigarettes shops are considered extremely unsafe for women.)

I reached Leh bus stop at 1.30 at night and haggled with a taxi driver. I ate at shady dhabas filled only with men. I had tea with another woman traveler one evening at a dhaba on the highway from Ladakh to Manali. We were the only women there, solo or otherwise, with a buss full of army men and many truck drivers. In none of these situations did I feel uncomfortable.

I learned that while there’s no denying that men and women use public spaces differently and that women still do not have the same access as men, solo travel for females is not as unsafe as we imagine. More importantly, it will continue to remain unsafe unless more and more women go out and reclaim public space.

The act of traveling as women, whether solo or in a group, is itself a feminist act. When we travel, we challenge our cultural imagination of public space and how women are allowed to use it. And it gets better when we do it solo.

Through my project, I wish to call upon my fellow female travelers to be the badass lone woman, loitering in a male-dominated public space, risking her safety and leaving the space a little safer for the next woman who arrives. I call upon women to travel solo to make public space safer.

This is an ongoing project, and I have a long way to go. Meanwhile, may these few powerful images I found during my journey change the way we imagine how women move through the world. I hope they inspire you to start your own solo journey.

Follow my journey on my SWBT Facebook page , Blog and Twitter .

The TED Fellows program hand-picks young innovators from around the world to raise international awareness of their work and maximize their impact.

Written by Sanjukta Basu

TED Fellow, Founder @SamyuktaMedia. Traveler. Writer. Photographer. Feminist Scholar. Traveling solo in India on budget to understand Gender and Public Space

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I’m a woman who loves traveling solo. What should I know about India?

Oct 20, 2023 • 4 min read

Less-visited corners of India – such as the south or the northeast – offer a way for solo female travelers to ease into their journeys © Sudip Bhar / Shutterstock

In this series, Lonely Planet’s team of writers and editors answers your travel problems and provides tips and hacks to help you plan a hassle-free trip. We asked Mumbai-based LP editor Akanksha Singh – a self-confessed control freak who finds traveling solo the ultimate in freedom – to field this question.

Question: ​​I am 27 years old and have traveled solo on my own in Europe and North America. Next year, I am planning a month-long trip to India, and am wondering if you have any tips for a female solo traveler?

Akanksha Singh: A cheesy quote graffitied on a wall outside a stoner cafe in Rishikesh some has stayed with me over the years: “You don’t visit India. India visits you.” In other words,  India is an experience that aches as much as it thrills. And if you haven’t traveled much outside the Global North, I’d say this is doubly true. 

Yet from the velvet beaches of Andman and Nicobar to the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas, it’s one of the few places where you can travel at your own pace, at any budget. You can hole yourself away in a lakefront cabin in verdant Maharastra , trek the unspoiled Markha Valley  or immerse yourself in mythology in Hampi . 

While it’s hard to condense all the safety dos and don’ts for a country this big and diverse, here are a few tips to get you started. 

Sort out your communications right when you arrive 

The best safety measure for solo travelers? A local prepaid SIM card. This will help you make train bookings and use transport apps like Ola and Uber (which sometimes offer rides between cities, too), among countless other tasks. Owing to security concerns, there’s very little free public wi-fi in India. Data plans in India are, however, largely affordable (as low as $2 for 1GB a day ), which means you can stay connected throughout your trip without denting your budget. 

You can pick up a local SIM card as soon as you arrive in India, even at the airport. To do so, you’ll need to carry an unlocked phone, photocopies of your passport and some passport-sized photos. Despite the country’s efforts to “go digital,” getting a SIM is still a paper-heavy process – so prepare to be patient.

Take note of emergency numbers should you need them: 100 (for the police) and 181 (a dedicated women’s helpline). 

Budget well – some upgrades are worth it

The sad reality of traveling in India is that you’re likely to be safer if you pay top rupee for certain essentials, such as accommodation and transport . If you’re traveling long distances by train, consider splurging out on an air-con first class (1AC) ticket, which comes with seats that convert into beds and compartments with lockable doors. 

Before you get into a taxi or auto rickshaw, ensure the driver will charge you by the meter, and don’t let them pick up strangers to carpool on your ride – if they do, get off. And your mother was right: never accept rides from strangers. 

Dress modestly 

Dress codes vary by Indian destination. While it’s best to take your cue from locals, as a general rule of thumb, if you’re somewhere hotter, opt for loose-fitting linen and cotton t-shirts and trousers. Also carry a scarf or sarong to cover up further if needed at holy sites, and note that few Indians wear swimwear to beaches (you’ll even see some women swimming in saris).

Consider easing into the more touristy spaces

For your first taste of urban India, start in Mumbai . As a Mumbaikar, I’m biased, it’s true – but I’ve got data to back this up. Mumbai is the second-most-honest city in the world (after Helsinki), safer for women than other Indian cities and a great place to get your overall bearings.

If you’re an especially nervous or inexperienced traveler, consider traveling India’s south and northeast first. I’m by no means suggesting you restrict yourself geographically; if we women did this, we’d never leave the safety and comfort of our homes. However, parts of northern India – particularly more-visited places like Agra , Jaipur and Delhi – are harder to navigate as a solo traveler.

If you have second thoughts, there are always women’s travel groups you can look into joining for part of your time here. I’ve never used one, but friends who have recommend them, and have even formed lifelong friendships through them.  

Seek out women-only spaces wherever they’re available 

In an effort to equalize against a largely conservative, patriarchal society, women are offered a few “perks” in India. Wherever these are available, use them: the ladies’ compartments in trains; “family” spaces in restaurants; women-only queues at ticket counters, post offices, etc. 

Trust your instincts

It’s a cliché because it’s true: there’s no substitute for going with your gut. This is a country of over a billion people, so everything is scaled up – from scams to incidents of sexual harassment.

For the most part a firm, loud “no” can rebuff unwanted male attention. That said, it’s best to avoid revealing you’re traveling alone. In fact, if you want to, you’re welcome to steal one of my many fake male friends and boyfriends I’m on my way to meet and who I always happen to be on the phone to whenever I’m on assignment somewhere new: Ravi, Rohan (he’s trained in jiu-jitsu), Raj, Rishi, Rishabh...

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Should Women Travel Alone in India?

Exploring India solo requires taking certain precautions and sacrificing small freedoms. But it’s worth it!

“In my experience, India’s one of the safest and most accommodating countries for solo women travelers,” journalist and Portland resident Margot Bigg says to me. I’m surprised by the statement; I expected a more negative response to my question about Margot’s experiences traveling in India . The country has a dubious rep as an unsafe destination for solo women travelers. Among the tumult of impressions, large population, heat, dust, and noise that new visitors to India must deal with, solo women travelers also have to reckon with concerns about safety.

“I do stay somewhat on guard,” Margot adds, “but being a woman also gets me special access.” There are reserved areas for women on public transport, separate women’s queues at ticket counters, and family spaces in highway restaurants. Of course, it is problematic that these are needed at all, but that’s a larger battle being fought by the women of India.

People also tend to trust women more, bringing them into the fold of families and larger groups. Margot recounts an experience from her first trip to India, as a wide-eyed 23-year-old. “On a train from Jaipur to Ajmer, I met a family of three generations of women, with babies and toddlers in tow. We formed an immediate sisterhood through gestures and smiles. By the end of it, I was wearing their bangles, helping bounce the babies, and being fed more than I could eat.”

Like Margot, my solo travel experiences have been overwhelmingly positive. I’m an Indian. But India is so vast, with so many different cultures and traditions, that it is impossible to talk about it as one place. In over a decade of exploring, I’ve only uncovered a minute part of my chaotic, beautiful nation. In many parts of it, I am as much a foreigner as a visitor from another country.

Khajuraho, a historical town in Madhya Pradesh, boasts 10th-century sculpted temples depicting every aspect of life from war to prayer to sexuality.

Uncovering Many Indias as a Solo Traveler

The first time I traveled alone in India, I was 21 and fresh out of college. I had a hard time convincing my parents to get onboard with the plan. They relented when I shared my detailed itinerary, and promised to call every other day. Twelve years later, it is a practice I still follow.

The trip was a revelation. My destination was Khajuraho, a historical town in Madhya Pradesh with 10th-century sculpted temples depicting every aspect of life from war to prayer to sexuality. I knew India was diverse, but on that trip, I realized just what the word meant. As a city-bred girl who worked, travelled alone, and wasn’t married by 21, I was such an unlikely sight in that temple town in the heart of India, that it was easier for people to believe I was a foreigner. I had more in common with two German travelers I met than the daughters and wives of the shop owners and guides I chatted with.

Their curiosity made it easier for me to get over my diffidence about striking conversations with strangers. I wound up with an invitation from a local raja to visit his estate and watch rural games that he organizes. A group of young boys took me on a cycling tour of their village, giving me a chance to discover how bits of ancient sculptures that farmers turn over in the fields become part of their homes as living heritage. I learnt a lesson that has stayed with me ever since: travel is nothing without chance conversations. They lend perspective and context to my experience of a destination; and are also the best way to get great insider tips on places to eat and explore that only the locals know about.

That trip was the first of many solo explorations. Without the filter of family and friends, I engage more deeply with a destination and its people. And the more I travel, the more I discover the many Indias that make up my country.

Can I have a Photo, Madam?

Sometimes, just like any foreigner, I am asked to pose for photographs. I’m camera shy, but often I oblige, making the person who asked me pose as well. I asked Anja Froehnel, a repeat visitor to India from Germany, if that happens to her a lot. “Frequently! If they ask nicely, with a smile and real interest, I say yes. After two weeks though, it becomes a burden.” Then she has a fun way of dealing with the situation. “I start telling people I charge for photos and ask for ten rupees. That usually ends the conversation pretty quickly,” she says.

Being the object of unwanted attention, even when it is not malicious in intent, can be unsettling.

Do such incidents cause safety concerns? Not really, Margot says. “There are so many people around all the time, making it feel safer. You could be out in the middle of the Thar Desert, minding your own business and, if you give it long enough, you're sure to cross paths with someone. Or at least stumble upon a chaiwallah. ”

Unlike Anja and Margot, some visitors chafe at the constant scrutiny. Hamburg resident Anja Dunkel, who lived and worked in Mumbai for several years, and has visited ever winter since then, dislikes being asked to take photos. “In the holiest of places, people seem to be more mesmerized by the fact that I’m a white woman than by any historic sight. I don't run around with a selfie stick so I can absorb the experience of being in a place. So naturally, I also don't want to take pictures with strangers.” Being the object of unwanted attention, even when it is not malicious in intent, can be unsettling.

Perks of Being a Solo Woman Traveler

Anja loves, however, that people are quick to treat her as a friend or welcome guest rather than an unwanted stranger. Photographer Meesha Holley, of mixed Indian and British descent, agrees. She recounts a time when a young girl hailed her in Kaza, Spiti. “She asked me where I was from and what I was taking photos of, posed for a portrait, and then, taking me completely by surprise, invited me home to show me more of her culture.” Back in the young girl’s house, Meesha met her brother and sister. Though their parents were away, the children didn’t hesitate to show her around their home.

Not only do people trust women more, they also tend to be more protective of them. Often, on road trips through the Himalayas, where it’s hard to predict how long a journey on the winding roads will take, my hosts at the destination have called me to check on my progress, and even asked to speak to the driver so he knows that someone is keeping tab. It’s also why public shaming can be useful tactic when unpleasant situations arise. If someone threatens your personal space, tell them off loudly. Others will intervene to ensure the troublemaker is quickly gone. A lot of people in India speak English, so you’ll usually find someone you can communicate with.

Some women recommend steering clear of "party spots," often beach towns, altogether.

In Times of Trouble

There are, however, rare occasions when things go wrong and no one else is around. Confronted with harassment in such a situation, Meesha found her camera handy. On a visit to Varkala, a beach town in Kerala, she was propositioned by a belligerent fisherman, who wanted to know how much she’d charge. “I turned back, quickly lifted my camera in his direction, and shouted: You're sick! I'm taking your photo to the police! He quickly began to walk away.”

Many solo women travelers, whether Indian or foreign, have had similar experiences. A quick poll among the women I know revealed that such incidents tend to happen in places that are considered "party spots", often beaches. Large parts of India are predominantly patriarchal, and while much has changed for women in terms of opportunities and access, mindsets are slower to change. Certain actions are considered “unbecoming” for women in Indian culture. Drinking alcohol, dancing with men, staying out late, wearing small clothes rank high among them. Women who do these things, it is believed, must be immoral and “available”. In fact, as Meesha points out, Indian women are judged more harshly in this paradigm. “Just the fact that an Indian woman is travelling solo is often taken to mean that she is reckless and has loose morals,” she says. In such places, there will be that one man in a hundred, who thinks it’s okay to proposition a lone woman. It’s best to be accompanied by other people while stepping away from the tourist zone, or after dark.

Everybody has a Strategy

Like me, all the female travelers I spoke to have evolved strategies to stay safe when they travel alone. They dress conservatively, avoid venturing out alone after dark except in well-lit tourist areas, and keep their phones handy. Some carry pepper spray or tasers.

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Anja has one more strategy: She avoids big cities. “The unpleasant things about India, the poverty, dirt, noise, crowd, and traffic, are most evident in the cities. When I go beyond, I find the India I keep coming back for. A place of astonishing color, temples, music, culture, nature, and people. India has so many faces and so much for a visitor to discover.”

She ends with a line she’s heard travelers use for India: India is the last country you should visit. After this, no other place will be more interesting, crazy, and beautiful, all at the same time.

I have to agree.

More Tips For Travelling Solo

There is absolutely no doubt in my mind that everybody should travel to India. It’s a remarkable country; one that is bound to leave a traveler changed by the experience. And exploring solo is a great way to do it. It only requires taking certain precautions that may sound daunting when put in a list like the one below but are quite simple. In fact, these are precautions I follow wherever I travel, from Southeast Asia to South America.

• Like in other countries, it pays to learn a few words in the local language . Nothing disarms a curious bystander more than a greeting in their own language.
• Dress conservatively. That doesn’t mean you need to be covered head to toe; but shorts paired with a tank top are not advisable. Loose cotton clothing that breathes and shields from skin burn works better for the weather too. Keep a scarf handy in your back for additional cover-up if needed in some situations.
• I tend to pick reputed homestays when I travel because that lends a personal touch to the experience, ensuring I have an ally in a destination even before I get there. Alternatively, if your destination has an affordable hotel by a reputable chain, book the first night there so you have a safe landing spot to launch your explorations from.
• Don’t compromise on your safety to save money. If I try to book the cheapest room I can get in NYC, I’ll probably end up in a seedy neighborhood where trouble lurks around the corner. The same applies to India: Do your research and go for a recommended place.
• Keep a friend or family member apprised of your travel plans. Create a system to check in regularly, say once in three days. Even a Whatsapp message or Facebook post will do the trick. Get a local SIM card with data for your phone, it doesn’t cost much.
• In most places, it is best not to venture out alone after dark. While booking flights, trains, and buses, choose options that get you to your destination in daylight. If its unavoidable have someone from your hotel/homestay come meet you.
• If you’re alone in a cab or a rickshaw and the driver tries to take a friend along, say no. If they don’t agree, get a different taxi/rickshaw.
• Most public transport has spaces just for women; look for these. Even in restaurants, you’ll find “Family Section”. Head straight for those. Added benefit: These usually have air conditioning, though the food costs marginally more.
• Most staring is just curiosity. Try to ignore it. If it bothers you, politely tell the person not too. If it persists, and you feel trouble is lurking, don’t hesitate to make a loud scene.
• Eve-teasing , a phrase you’ll hear often in India to refer to the harassment of women, is often the realm of weak, sexually repressed men who try to take advantage of crowded spaces to cop a feel. As college girls, my friends and I learnt to wear our backpacks in front to prevent “accidental” brushing. And we didn’t hesitate to elbow any man who pressed too close and then blame it on the swerving bus.
• You can also dial 100, the number for the police that works across India. Several big cities and tourist spots, have squads dedicated to addressing women’s safety concerns. However, their response time can be erratic.

And if all this sounds too overwhelming, do remember, these precautions are only meant to protect you in the off chance that something nasty happens. Have a good time, and have plenty of conversations; they’ll make your trip extra special. Most Indians are welcoming, chatty, and happy to share their life stories. Go for it, ladies!

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Safety and security

Read this guidance alongside FCDO’s overall travel advice and warnings for India.

There is a high threat of terrorist attack globally affecting UK interests and British nationals, including from groups and individuals who view the UK and British nationals as targets. You should remain vigilant at all times.

UK Counter Terrorism Policing has information and advice on  staying safe abroad  and what to do in the event of a terrorist attack. Find out  how to reduce your risk from terrorism while abroad .

Terrorism in India

Terrorists are very likely to try to carry out attacks in India.

There is a heightened risk of terrorism in some Indian regions. Read  our advice on regional risks in India for more information.

Terrorist and insurgent groups operating in India include:

• Lashkar-e-Tayyiba (LET), Jaish-e-Mohammed (JEM) in Kashmir
• Naxalite (radical communist insurgent) groups active in India’s eastern states
• Khalistani extremists operating mainly in Punjab
• Daesh (formerly referred to as ISIL), Al Qaeda in the Indian Subcontinent (AQIS), and other groups may also be planning attacks

Terrorist attacks have mainly targeted Government of India interests. Security has been strengthened, notably at major hotels and transport hubs. However, terrorist attacks could be indiscriminate, including in places frequented by foreign nationals, such as:  

• restaurants, hotels, bars, and markets
• stations and airports
• places of worship and tourist attractions
• festivals, sports venues, and beaches

Take particular care during periods of national or religious significance, such as:

• Republic Day (26 January)
• Independence Day (15 August)
• Diwali (usually in October or November)
• Eid (date changes each year)

Stay aware of your surroundings, keep up to date with local media reports and follow the advice of local authorities.

Political situation

General elections will take place between 19 April and 1 June. Results will be announced on 4 June.  Political rallies and public meetings will continue to occur across the country during this time. Exercise caution around large gatherings. Follow updates in the local media and the advice of local authorities.

Strikes (sometimes referred to as ‘bandh’ or ‘hartal’), political rallies and demonstrations occur frequently and can become violent. The risks are higher during elections and after the death of party or government leaders. Protests may also occur at short notice, especially around days of national importance. Local authorities may impose curfews and other restrictions at short notice. Transport and public services including mobile and internet network coverage may be disrupted at short notice.

You should:

• avoid protests and be cautious around large gatherings, including at religious sites, sports stadiums and shopping centres
• follow the advice of the local authorities and your travel company
• monitor local media and follow any curfew restrictions

If you’re the victim of crime, call Police helpline number 100 or National Emergency Number 112 and ask for police assistance.

India’s Women Helpline Number is 1091.

Protecting your belongings

Keep a copy of your passport, visa, and flight ticket separately from originals when travelling. Leave copies at home where others can access them, and also store them electronically so you can access them easily. If your passport is lost or stolen, tell the police immediately and get a police report.

Take particular care of your possessions on buses, trains and in crowds. Criminals may ride past on motorbikes and snatch valuables.

Be cautious in tourist areas, where scammers, pickpockets and ticket touts target foreigners.

Cybercrime, internet scamming, card skimming, and confidence scams are common. These scams come in many forms and can pose great financial loss for the victims.

Criminals often use the details of British High Commissions and embassies to carry out their fraud. Be cautious and check the authenticity of details before responding.

Drink and food spiking

As in the UK, be wary of accepting drinks or food from strangers or of leaving drinks unattended. There have been reports of spiked drinks and food, with travellers, including British nationals, subsequently being robbed, or assaulted.

Sexual assault

Sexual assaults occur. This includes attacks on foreign female visitors in tourist areas and cities.

Female travellers often experience verbal and physical harassment by individuals or groups of men. Serious sexual attacks involving both Indian and foreign nationals have been reported. British women have been victims of sexual assault, including rape, in Goa, Delhi, Rajasthan, Mumbai and Kerala. Avoid isolated areas, including beaches, when alone at any time of day.

Read our advice for women travelling abroad .

Laws and cultural differences

There may be serious legal penalties for doing something which may not be illegal in the UK.

Women travelling in India should respect local customs and dress codes.

Alcohol laws and bans

Laws on alcohol, including buying, drinking and the legal drinking age, vary by state. Get advice from your travel agent, hotel, or the authorities about the laws in areas you are visiting.

It is an offence to drink alcohol in public places, such as public parks.

In some states, foreign nationals and non-resident Indians can buy 30-day alcohol permits.

There is often a ban on the sale of alcohol during major religious festivals, national holidays, and elections.

The consumption, production or transportation of alcohol is banned in:

• the region of Lakshadweep

If you drink or possess alcohol in these states, you could be arrested without bail. Charges can carry a prison sentence of 5 to 10 years.

Smoking and e-cigarette bans

Smoking is banned in most public places. You should only smoke in designated smoking areas.

E-cigarettes and related products are banned. You will be unable to buy e-cigarettes in India or bring them into the country.

Illegal drugs and prison sentences

Do not get involved with any illegal drugs. Drugs are not categorised as they would be in the UK, into Class A, B and C. There is a minimum sentence of 6 months for possession of small amounts deemed for personal consumption only. A 10-year sentence for possession of other amounts applies. The judicial process is slow and being detained for several years whilst your case is processed is normal.

Using cameras and binoculars in secure areas

Activities involving cameras and binoculars, like photography, bird-watching, or plane spotting, may be misunderstood. Be particularly careful near military sites, government buildings, airports, and railway stations.

Swimming safety

Every year, several people drown due to strong currents in the sea. There are strong currents off many coasts. Most beaches do not have warning signs, flags, or lifesaving equipment. Take local advice, follow warnings and instructions issued by lifeguards. Emergency service standards may differ from those in the UK.

Trekking in India

Trekkers should:

• travel in groups
• use reputable local guides and stay on established routes
• check if you need any special permits

Leave details of where you’re going and when you expect to return with your accommodation. You are extremely unlikely to have a phone signal in the mountains, so make sure your accommodation provider registers your whereabouts using the online C-form .

It is illegal to possess or operate satellite phones without prior permission of the Indian authorities.

The following hazards exist throughout the year, especially above 3,000 metres (m):

• altitude sickness - see our advice on Health in India
• sudden weather changes, including thunderstorms
• avalanches and snow drifts
• landslides, flooding, and rock falls

Make sure your insurance policy covers you for altitudes over 2,400m and mountain rescue and helicopter costs.

There are no commercial mountain rescue services operating above 3,000m. In some border areas only the Indian Air Force can carry out air rescues. However, they are under no obligation to perform them and only carry out rescues during working hours.

LGBT+ travellers

Same-sex relationships are legal in India. However same-sex marriage is still illegal. Indian society remains conservative. This includes attitudes to LGBT+ people, which can be less accepting than in the UK. There is a risk of harassment and discrimination, especially outside of big cities.

Showing affection in public can receive unwanted attention.

Read our advice for LGBT+ travellers .

Child custody and family law

Indian family law is very different from UK law. Special caution is needed when child custody becomes an issue. In case of dispute, consult a local lawyer to find out more about the relevant laws.

Commercial surrogacy is illegal for foreign nationals in India. Overseas Citizens of India (OCI) can seek legal guidance on surrogacy if at least one partner is an Indian passport holder.

Wildlife, animal products and souvenirs

It is illegal to buy, sell, kill, or capture any protected wild animal or trade its parts without a licence. India has a strong legal framework to regulate and restrict wildlife trade and is also a signatory to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES). If you’re caught purchasing or trafficking such goods illegally, you will be prosecuted and receive a prison sentence or fine.

Sexual offences against children

The penalties for child sex offences are severe. There is a minimum jail term of 20 years, which may go up to life imprisonment, or a death sentence for those convicted of raping a child aged under 12.

Transport risks in India

Be wary of unofficial transport at airports.

British tourists have been scammed by drivers who offer cheap transportation or hotels, unwanted tours, and extended taxi rides. Travellers who accept these offers have reported being threatened with violence when they have declined to pay.

Taxis and rickshaws

When using taxis or rickshaws:

• avoid travelling alone and hailing taxis on the street, especially at night
• use official taxi ranks. Pre-paid taxi services are available from inside all airport terminal buildings and many hotels offer transfers. Ride-hailing services like Uber and Ola are also widely available in India
• if you’re being collected at the airport by a hotel driver, make sure they properly identify themselves before you set off
• if you book a taxi online, there’s usually a way to share journey details with your contacts who can then follow your location

Cars and motorbikes

Road accidents including car and motorbike accidents are one of the biggest causes of injury and death overseas. Police figures estimate more than 150,000 people are killed every year in road accidents across India. Several British nationals are either injured or killed each year on Indian roads.

Road traffic hazards include:

• reckless driving and manoeuvring
• poorly maintained vehicles
• poor quality and congested roads
• roads shared with pedestrians, carts, cattle and other livestock
• vehicles running red lights
• protests - see our advice on the Political Situation in India
• extreme weather and natural disasters - see our advice on Extreme weather in India

Driving in India

If you are planning to drive in India, see information on driving abroad .

You can drive with a UK licence and an accompanying international driving permit after you arrive, but rules on how long you can drive on a UK licence vary from state to state.

Driving can be dangerous in urban and rural areas due to wandering livestock, including cows. Cows are considered sacred in India and road accidents involving cows can draw crowds or potentially lead to violence. If you are involved in a road accident, you may be attacked or become a victim of extortion, even if you were not driving the vehicle. If you hit a cow or pedestrian, you should comply with the police if they are at the scene. If the police are not present, it could be unsafe to remain at the scene of an accident of this nature, if safe to do so you may prefer to find the nearest police station.

It is common to use your horn or flash your headlights frequently to announce your presence on the road.

If possible, avoid travelling at night and in fog as accidents are common due to low visibility and there is a higher risk of crime at night. Always travel in a well-maintained vehicle. Seatbelts are not common in three-wheel taxis (autos) or in the back seats of taxis. Try to use only cars that have seatbelts.

If you travel by motorbike, wear a helmet and proper footwear.

Buses are a convenient mode of transport, serving almost every city across India. However, they are often driven fast and recklessly. Accidents are common.

Vehicles drive on the left in India. Pedestrians should exercise caution when crossing streets, even in marked pedestrian areas and especially at night, as vehicles sometimes drive on the wrong side of the road.

When you are travelling through an airport, allow enough time to complete check-in and security procedures, as your baggage may need to go through screening equipment and checks.  Allow time for transiting between flights if you need to change from international terminals to domestic terminals, even if using the airport shuttle service.

Tourists flying on charter flights booked through a tour operator can only fly into and out of the country by using the services of the same charter operator. Chartered flight passengers are not permitted to fly on inward or outward journeys using a scheduled airline.

Rail travel

India has a large passenger train network throughout the country. Although train travel in India is generally safe, accidents do occur and have previously resulted in death and serious injury. There are police or guards on trains and stations if you need help.

When travelling by train:

• do not accept food or drinks from strangers
• thefts are common - take care of your passport and valuables
• avoid people at railway stations offering tickets and tours as you may be scammed

Tourist boats and other small crafts rarely carry life-saving equipment.

Although piracy has not so far affected India’s territorial waters, it poses a significant threat in parts of the Indian Ocean. Mariners should follow shipping industry guidelines on precautions to take.

Ships and crew must have the necessary authorisation and paperwork before entering Indian territorial waters and abide by Indian laws and regulations. If carrying weapons on board ships in Indian territorial waters, you must follow Indian laws and regulations.

Extreme weather and natural disasters

India can experience extreme weather events that can be hazardous to life and disrupt infrastructure, including buildings, roads, and communications.

Plan your travel so that you are aware of seasonal weather events, such as monsoon rains, as well as what to do if there is a natural disaster.  Follow the advice of local authorities and your travel company. Consult the  Indian Meteorological Department  for local and international weather updates .

Highest risk: June to October

Monsoon rains can cause:

• flooding and landslides, sometimes leading to significant loss of life
• towns and villages to be cut off for days
• serious disruption to road and train travel
• disruption in big cities due to flooding
• other services including telephone lines, internet services and electricity supply to be affected

Cyclones and tropical storms

Highest risk:

• East coast of India (September to December)
• Bay of Bengal (April to June and September to December)
• South India (June to November)

Tropical cyclones can cause:

• high winds: buildings can be damaged or destroyed, trees, power and telephone lines toppled, flying debris can be dangerous
• storm surges: can provoke a temporary rise in sea level of several metres which can flood coastal areas and damage buildings on the shoreline
• very heavy rainfall: this can cause localised or widespread flooding and mudslides

See our advice on Extreme weather and natural hazards for more information .

Earthquakes

Several parts of India lie on highly active fault zones (including areas of the North and North-east). The most active are along the length of the Himalayas. Earth tremors are common in these regions and can cause landslides. Limited emergency response vehicles, equipment, and medical facilities could increase the impact an earthquake has.

Check you know what to do before, during and after an earthquake (US government site) .

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• Senior Travel

It's Not Too Late to Travel Solo After Retirement — but Don't Make These 14 Mistakes

“Sometimes as you’re getting older, you might start feeling less capable. You go out there and you navigate the world by yourself? Yeah, you come back feeling pretty darn strong.”

Embarking on a solo trip as a senior comes with its own set of challenges — and perks. Travel + Leisure turned to senior solo travel expert Janice Waugh of Solo Traveler World for insight into what not to do as a senior traveling solo.

Thinking You’re Younger Than You Are

Don’t overestimate your abilities — or underestimate your age. “It’s pretty common,” Waugh laughs. “When you hit about 40 or 50, you really think you’re about 10, 20 years younger than you actually are. It’s really important that you take an assessment and know your physical abilities so that you don’t get yourself into an awkward situation. Know how far you can walk, how far you can ride, how far you can hike, what stairs are like for you, what it’s like on uneven surfaces — just take account of this, because it can really affect your enjoyment of the trip once you go.”

Choosing the Wrong Destination for Your Situation

Plan trips according to what’s best for you at this stage in life. “You really need to choose the trip, the tour, or the destination that’s right for you — and that, again, is going to be affected by your abilities,” Waugh says. “Maybe you’ve been a great hiker in the past, but it’s just not in the cards, but you also love cooking, so you go to Italy and take a cooking course. Sometimes you have to adapt according to the times within your life.”

Flying Solo When a Group Trip Would Be Better

Based on your desired destination and activities, determine whether a visit is best tackled solo or within the embrace of a group tour. “It’s really important to assess the destination and how challenging it might be and whether it might be best on a tour,” Waugh says. “Or you might be looking at yourself and saying, ‘You know what, I’m now at the stage where I need more backup so that if something goes wrong, I’ve got a tour guide to turn to.’ Making that decision as to the nature of your trip — independent or with a tour or on a river cruise or something of that nature — I think is really an important thing to do.”

Not Buying Travel Insurance

In many circles, travel insurance is up for debate , but Waugh won’t travel without it.

“I have bought travel insurance my entire life — and I’ve won the game on some years,” she says. “You have to have travel insurance. It’s so important. It gets much more expensive as you get older, so that can be a challenge, but more things can go wrong, which is why it gets more expensive.” She recommends simply counting travel insurance as part of the cost of your trip.

How do you choose which travel insurance package or level of coverage is right for you? “Everyone has their own level of risk, even as a senior,” Waugh says. “If you don’t care whether you lose your luggage, then don’t get it covered. Have a look at it in terms of what you actually want to buy.”

Assuming You Won’t Meet Other Seniors Traveling Solo for the First Time

Trying something new is often intimidating because you fear that others are seasoned experts who have been at it for years. But when it comes to travel, you’re not alone; many seniors are also traveling solo for the first time in their lives.

According to Waugh, “Very often, [seniors are] traveling by themselves for the first time, and this might be because they are now a widow or widower . Or divorced — a lot of people divorce in their 50s and early 60s, once the kids are gone. Or it might be that one party does not want to travel; maybe they traveled for work their entire life and they’ve had it with airports, and the other is just really keen on getting out and exploring the world. There are many, many reasons that people will come to solo travel later in life.”

To seniors considering traveling alone for the first time and finding the prospect daunting, Waugh recommends a group setting. “A lot of seniors go on tours or escorted travel, and that takes the worry out of it for you,” she says. “You know you’re going to be sitting with someone to have dinner; you know someone’s going to navigate the whole destination. So that’s a really valid and useful way to travel for seniors.”

She estimates that probably 75 percent of solo-traveling seniors opt for a tour, but there are certainly some who choose to explore completely independently. “I think that as long as you’re fit and healthy and adventurous, then it works well,” Waugh says. “Those who go independently, it’s very interesting to see the response of the world to them. It’s very welcoming.”

Not Starting Small

Another surefire way to get comfortable traveling on your own as a senior is to start small and stay local. “Go to a city not far from you, where it’s really familiar,” Waugh advises.

If you have a lot of travel experience already and it’s not the travel that’s baffling you but the being alone, then choose a place that’s different yet familiar. “If you want to be more adventurous than just going down the road, so to speak, then go to the UK or go across the country or go somewhere where English is spoken and it’s pretty familiar how the world works,” Waugh recommends. “You get your feet wet that way.”

Overlooking the Single Supplement

Traveling solo can become surprisingly pricey when you run into the dreaded single supplement. Because most hotel rooms and cruise ship cabins are built to accommodate two occupants, solo travelers often encounter an extra charge that exists to compensate for the lack of full capacity.

“The single supplement, historically, has been up to 100 percent, and it still is in some places,” Waugh warns. Solo Traveler World advertises tour companies with no single supplement or a low single supplement. “We have a 20 percent threshold, otherwise they can’t advertise on our page,” Waugh says. “I think it’s the only resource online for solo travelers to find trips that are truly designed for solo travelers.”

Not Sorting Out Your Communication Strategy Before You Depart

Don’t leave home without knowing how you’ll contact home in case of emergency.

“What can happen, if you’re under stress and the things you have to do to communicate with home or with your travel agent or whomever is not clear to you — if you’re using the phone and you’ve just bought the phone, that kind of thing — the stress can make it impossible, almost,” Waugh says. “So make sure that you’re leaving really confident about how you’re communicating with home.”

Not Using Technology to Make Travel Easier

Don’t bog yourself down with devices you won’t use, but be open to learning and utilizing the sundry travel tools available in the modern age. Traveling with technology is not necessary, though it can be helpful, Waugh says.

“Stick with what you’re comfortable with. If you’re going to a country that’s not a language you speak, then definitely get comfortable with a translation app.” She also recommends using Google Street View to take a look around the area before booking accommodations.

Overpacking

Overpacking makes travel both cumbersome and expensive. “I recommend one carry-on bag and I really urge people to just go with that because you are so much more mobile that way,” Waugh says. She suggests choosing two base colors for your wardrobe and accessorizing with non-flashy, cheap jewelry and scarves.

“I’ve gone on business trips that have hiking side trips and it’s all in one carry-on; I’ve been out for a month with one carry-on,” Waugh says. “It can always be done.”

Overall, keep your bags light by keeping your packing list simple and versatile.

Scheduling Your Arrival After Nightfall

As a senior, you should plan to arrive at your destination in the daytime — the world does not look as safe and easy to navigate in the dark, Waugh warns.

“I went to Havana one time and arrived after dark,” she said. “I was dropped off at the edge of Old Havana, where there were no cars, and I had to drag my roller bag over cobblestones in what was virtually the dark, ’cause there was not a lot of street lighting, to find my hotel, which had the doors closed. And you can imagine: my bag is making these rackety sounds over the cobblestones; it’s echoing on the buildings and I’m feeling incredibly vulnerable. So that was when I learned: make sure you arrive during daylight. Life will be easier.”

Ignoring Your Instincts and Neglecting to Be Cautious

Part of orienting yourself with your surroundings — beyond reading maps and putting together a geographically sound itinerary — is trusting your gut. “If something feels uncomfortable, get out of there,” Waugh says. “You don’t want to be too polite. If someone’s making you uncomfortable, be noisy about it.”

In that vein, Waugh’s No. 1 rule as a senior traveling solo is to remain in public with the people she meets. “To go into a private space, whether it’s a taxi or you’re invited to someone’s home or something of this nature — don’t do that,” she advises. “It’s difficult to evaluate someone outside of your own culture and when you’re on holidays, you’re all bright-eyed and excited. If you stay in a public space with someone that you find interesting or fun or whatever, it’s going to be safer, so always stay in the public sphere.”

Assuming All of Travel Is How It Used to Be

As a senior, you may have decades of travel experience, but don’t let that cloud your awareness of the many ways travel has progressed — and become more accessible than ever.

For example: because hostels used to be called “youth hostels,” many seniors write them off or overlook the opportunity they present for an affordable stay in an approachable setting. But hostels aren’t just for young people anymore (though being young at heart is probably a plus). “You get families at hostels; you get seniors at hostels — not as many, but there’s usually one other senior at a hostel, and of course they’re such a wonderful way to stay somewhere and be in a social environment,” Waugh says.

Another positive change is the increased ease of communication. “If you were traveling in the '70s — or '80s, even — your only option in terms of communication was basically postcard or an incredibly expensive phone call on a phone that made no sense because every country had its own phone,” Waugh says.

With a smart phone in your pocket — even if you barely use it — you can be connected at a moment’s notice, should you so desire. Gone are the days of picking up your mail at the American Express office.

Underestimating How Rewarding Solo Travel Can Be

The solo travel trend of recent years has led to its benefits being recognized widely — but the gifts that solo travel offers to seniors differ from those of any other demographic. While traveling alone might offer a young person the opportunity to discover him- or herself, for seniors, the experience is gratifying in other ways.

For Waugh, it’s about the people you meet on the road. “Because you’re alone, people step into the space; people step in and they’ll talk to you,” she says. “Whether it’s other travelers or whether it’s locals, it’s really a wonderful experience.”

However, she adds, many seniors extol the main virtue of solo travel as the chance to do what you want, when you want, however you want to do it. When you’re traveling on your own, there’s no attending to other people’s needs or accommodating their schedules. “If they’re a 6:00 riser, if they’re a 10:30 riser — whatever, it’s all up to them,” Waugh remarks. “They don’t have to go to museums if they hate museums. They can go to museums all day if they love museums. It’s all up to them.”

Plus, she says, the experience is incredibly empowering. “Sometimes as you’re getting older, you might start feeling less capable. You go out there and you navigate the world by yourself? Yeah, you come back feeling pretty darn strong.”

Hear more from Janice Waugh about the beauty in solo travel on Let’s Go Together , available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify , Megaphone , and Stitcher .

8 tips I wish I knew before traveling solo to Egypt

Egypt is a magical place that attracts travelers from all over the globe. Most tourists go there to see the pyramids in Giza, but you'd be remiss if you didn't branch out beyond Cairo's famous sites.

Traveling throughout Egypt can be a bit tricky. Fortunately, with a bit of research and careful planning, you can minimize the likelihood of encountering any unexpected surprises during your visit.

Here are some tips to keep in mind before you visit based on my solo travels around Egypt.

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Know what to expect when it comes to money

Overall, Egypt is an affordable destination, with most meals costing less than $5. However, be wary of scams and being overcharged. If you plan to shop, which you should at Khan el-Khalili in Cairo, be prepared to haggle. Never pay the first price offered by a local vendor, and use your bargaining skills to get whatever you're purchasing for a little bit cheaper.

Also be sure to pack cash. Although this is standard advice for just about everywhere, it's especially crucial in Egypt, as you'll be expected to leave a hefty tip in Egyptian pounds (the country's currency) for every service you partake in and receive.

Dress appropriately

While you may be tempted to whip out your short shorts due to the scalding heat, Egypt is not the place to do so, as it's a conservative country. Wear clothes that go at least past your knees, do not show any cleavage and make sure to cover your shoulders, especially at holy sites. Female tourists are not expected to wear a hijab, though they can choose to do so out of respect. It is recommended for women to wear baggy clothes.

Bring a light jacket if your visit is during winter. Despite popular belief, Egypt does indeed get chilly. Wear comfortable walking shoes, and don't repeat my mistake of wearing cute sandals while temple hopping in Luxor. Some tombs are underground with a steep slope downward, so good footwear is essential.

Related: The potential is there: A review of EgyptAir's business class on the 787-9 from Cairo to New York

Take advantage of student discounts

Most of Egypt's archaeological sites like the pyramids, temples and more charge an entry fee. These fees can add up over time, especially if you're trying to see several throughout your trip, as you should. I visited Egypt when I was a law student, and my guide in Luxor informed me there is a student discount. However, some sites wouldn't accept my New York City student ID card.

To avoid a U.S. state ID not being accepted, you can look into getting an international student ID card (or an ISIC), which will likely be accepted at all sites in Egypt. The only caveat is you have to be younger than 26 to qualify for the Egyptian student discount.

Sample the country's food and beverages

Sampling local cuisine is always a big treat when traveling. In Egypt, the delicious fare is seemingly endless. You'll find a variety of vegetarian and vegan dishes in the country, including falafel and fül, a stew of cooked fava beans made with olive oil, parsley, cumin and garlic that's typically eaten for breakfast. You should also try koshari, Egypt's national dish. It's a wonderfully tasty concoction of pasta, rice, chickpeas, lentils and fried onions served in a spicy tomato sauce.

Tap water is not recommended for drinking here, so opt for a bottled beverage to wash down your meal. Despite being a predominantly Muslim nation where many locals abstain from drinking alcohol, Egypt produces its own wine and beer, so you'll have a few alcoholic options to choose from. If you want to indulge after a long day of sightseeing, most hotels serve alcohol or you can order it online through the popular Egyptian site Cheers. Know, though, that being intoxicated in public is a big no-no.

Come prepared with layers

There's a common misconception that Egypt is extremely hot year-round. While the country undoubtedly gets hot much of the year, it does indeed have a cooler season from December to late March, so bring a light jacket if you're planning a winter visit.

Know, too, that Egypt is a large country, so the weather may vary depending on where you are in the country.

Hire a guide

Egypt is an attractive tourist destination thanks to its rich history, which can be traced back to some of the earliest signs of communication. Self-research is always an option, but if you want to make the most of your Egypt experience, consider hiring a guide to explain the many sites you'll see to you. It can be overwhelming to view pyramids, hieroglyphics, mummies and more on your own. A certified Egyptologist will ensure you know what you're looking at and can deepen your connection to the country's history.

Additionally, a local guide who speaks the language can help you navigate unwanted attention, especially for women traveling on their own. Catcalling is unfortunately common in Egypt, but touring with a guide might eliminate some of the harassment experienced. If you're a woman traveling alone and you're uncomfortable hiring a male guide, don't fret: I was pleasantly surprised to find many female guides available for hire when I visited.

Related: Egypt opens 4,600-year-old 'Bent' Pyramid to the public

Plan your itinerary and in-country transportation ahead of time

There's more to Egypt than just Cairo. In fact, many travelers only spend a day or two in Cairo to see the pyramids before venturing out to other destinations. There are several ways to travel throughout the country, but you'll need to narrow down where you'd like to go before deciding how you'll get there.

Luxor, like Cairo, is an obvious choice for most since it offers some of the best and most popular sites in the country. If you're into scuba diving or snorkeling, any of the towns along the Red Sea should be on your radar. The most popular spots for water activities are Sharm el-Sheikh, Hurghada and Dahab. And if you're feeling adventurous, head east toward the Libyan border to discover the magical Siwa Oasis, where you can float in one of the area's famous salt pools.

Other popular destinations in Egypt include Abu Simbel, Aswan and Alexandria.

Once you narrow down where you'd like to go, you'll then have to decide how you'll get there. Traveling throughout Egypt via EgyptAir is incredibly easy, as there are flights connecting throughout most major cities at affordable rates. An overnight sleeper train is another popular way to travel due to its relatively low cost, or you can get a unique perspective of the country by enjoying a relaxing Nile River cruise .

Renting a car is an option, too. However, it's not recommended due to heavy traffic, lack of speed limit enforcement and the presence of police checkpoints throughout the country. Should you need to get around in a car, consider hailing a taxi or ordering an Uber.

Use the right photography tools and equipment

Getting photos with no one else in them can be a challenge due to the large volume of visitors that flock to the main tourist sites, so you may want to work on your photoshop skills. Most sites are grandiose in size, so a wide-angle lens will serve you well.

Remember that drones are prohibited. If you attempt to bring one to the airport, it will be confiscated.

Bottom line

Egypt is a thrill.

While you may want to brush up on your Arabic — it's the national language there — and check to see if you need any vaccinations (like one for yellow fever, which is required if you're not traveling directly to Egypt from the U.S.), these preparations are more than worth the effort to visit this culturally and historically rich destination.

As long as you practice general safety precautions, you should be all set to have the time of your life.

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How To Do Solo Female Travel In India Like A BOSS!

Hostelworld Blog | Posted on February 24, 2017 |

The thought of travelling India alone can seem scary at first. I’ve been living and travelling all over the country for four years now, and the funny thing is, it doesn’t ever get easier. Of the 36 countries I’ve travelled to, India is by far the most challenging.

But it can also be the most rewarding. Now you’ve probably heard people say you’ll either love or hate India, but I’m going to let you in on a little secret: The key to happy travels in India, is preparation. It’s not one of those countries where you can just “wing it”; you’ll end up anxious, stressed and quite possibly in danger. Sadly this is particularly true for solo female travel in India. To help make things a little easier, I’ve put together this guide with everything you need to know about travelling to India alone.

Is It Safe For A Woman To Travel Alone In India?

This is probably the biggest concern for solo female travellers in India. There’s no simple answer to this question, but in a nutshell: India CAN be a safe destination. As with anywhere else, you can be unlucky or in the wrong place at the wrong time. But that could also happen in your hometown, or in a “safe” destination in Western Europe. Taking luck out of the equation, there’s lots you can do to help yourself stay safe. As I said above, this isn’t the kind of place where you can just wing it. Even if you prefer to be spontaneous, you’ll need to have some plans or “rules” that you stick to no matter what.

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Top Safety Tips For Solo Female Travellers In India

• Don’t get stupidly drunk. Seriously, if you only take away one piece of advice from this blog post, this should be it.
• When you go out, always take a fully charged mobile phone with you, so that if you end up in a difficult situation you can call someone you trust for help. An extra battery pack is also an excellent investment to ensure you’ll never be left without a phone.
• Take the number and address of your hostel with you. If you’re in a dodgy situation or get lost, they can often arrange for a trusted local driver to pick you up, which is much safer than just jumping into a passing taxi.
• Arrange to be picked up from the station/airport in advance. Again, your hostel might be able to help with this.
• Generally it’s best to travel during the day instead of at night, especially on trains and buses.
• Get into the habit of regular calls with family or friends at a pre-arranged time.
• As with any sort of travel, you’ll need to trust your gut feeling.
• Make sure you’re in a public place when interacting with strangers, that includes Tinder dates (at least initially!)
• If something seems too good to be true, it probably is. Scams in India are nearly unavoidable, but saying no to “help” strangers offer when you didn’t ask for it, is the best way to prevent scams.
• Stay in a hostel so you can make friends with other travellers, and have someone to go on adventures with.

Nothing is without risk, but with a bit of common sense and preparation India can be as safe as any other destination for a solo female traveller.

Best Places To Visit In India For Solo Female Travellers

The biggest tip I can give is to choose only a few cities. The more you are in transit, the more stress you have. India’s a huge, and getting around is generally slower than in countries with more developed road and public transport networks. Try to travel slow and stay in each place a longer time. Don’t try to cover it all. Here are a few of the best places for

Kerala & Varkala

They refer to Kerala as ‘India Lite’ meaning, it’s a bit less intense than the rest of India and far less intense than the North. So it’s a nice area to explore as a solo female traveller, especially if it’s your first time in India. One of Kerala’s best spots is the beach side town of Varkala, where you’ll find loads of other travellers to hang out with. It’s a bit of a yoga hub, and really safe and friendly. Part of Varkala’s charm is the fact that it’s quite small, and most travellers tend to gather in quite a small area near the beach, so small it’s very walkable and you won’t have to get too many Rickshaws alone. I didn’t have to find transportation if I went out at night, I could just walk everywhere.

– Recommended by The Travelling Light

Mumbai is a must visit city for many reasons, not least because most international flights arrive and depart from here. There’s so much to do in Mumbai, and like India’s other big cities, Mumbai can be great for a solo female traveler because of the international vibe and lively hostel scene. One of the best places to visit in Mumbai is Colaba, it’s where the cool kids are. You should also try to travel on the Mumbai Slow Local train during rush hour. THAT is an experience you’ll never ever forget! And of course you can visit the famous Taj Hotel areas and the Gateway of India.

– Recommended by Hippie In Heels

This is one of the most spiritual cities in India and if you’re looking for a chilled time after New Delhi, you should definitely head North to Rishikesh. Expect sunsets over the River Ganga, air so clean you can taste it, hot cups of chai on your hostel rooftop and SO MUCH yoga. For more reasons to visit, read our guide to Rishikesh .

– Recommended by Our Broke Travels

Hampi was once the capital of the Greatest Hindu Empire and what remains of it is beyond breath taking. Hundreds of ancient ruins and crumbling temples do the area nestled between beautiful green palms and the infamous boulders. Despite being a World Heritage Site, Hampi is a small town. It’s is a welcome relief after the craziness of the larger cities and it’s really easy to meet other travellers to explore the area with. My favourite part about Hampi is the sunset: after a short hike you will have a spectacular view of the old capital illuminated in all shades of orange, yellow and gold.

Just like Mumbai, you’ll almost certainly end up spending some time in New Delhi during your trip, especially if you plan to visit the nearby Taj Mahal (in Agra). In general I find it more difficult to travel than Mumbai, but if you stay in Connaught Place and meet other travelers you’ll be fine. Best places to visit in New Delhi: The Red Fort, Humyan’s Tomb, and India Gate. Club together with other travellers at your hostel and hire a rickshaw driver for the day so you can see the city’s main sights in one go. Be sure to negotiate the rate before you set off, and pay at the end of the day.

Varanasi is a place like no other. A place I need not return and a place I will never forget. It’s loud, colourful, overflowing and beautiful. It’s like walking into magic. Never has the term ‘holy city’ been more true. Amidst the chaos there is the calm, out on a boat at dawn in the middle of the river Ganges you will experience pure serenity.

– Recommended by Madison J Lilli Coupland

More Advice For Women Travelling India Alone

So you’ve decided you want to backpack India solo. Congratulations on the best travel decision you’ll ever make! But now you need to think about all the practical stuff that will ensure your trip is a success: what to wear, when to visit and how to stay safe. To help you out, I’ve tried to cover off some of the most common questions.

What to wear when traveling to India

India is very conservative in some areas and this is definitely one of the aspects that requires research and preparation beforehand. Harem pants are an India wardrobe essential, and you can pick up some gorgeous ones really cheaply at markets in places like Goa and Kerala. They’re baggy and will suit most situations. They’re also easy to wash and will dry quickly so you’ll save loads of space in your backpack. The second essential item of clothing for India is a shawl; these are particularly useful to have handy in case you stumble across a temple you want to go into, as you’ll need to fully cover up.

You’ll also want to wear a t shirt that does not scoop too low; cleavage is not advisable. Maxi skirts are great, as are culottes and long dresses.  In the cities, girls wear skinny jeans. In Goa, anything goes! You should simply use common sense when deciding what to wear in India: look around you at what other people are doing, and if in doubt ask the staff and fellow travellers at your hostel.

What not to do in India

Don’t break the law! This one might seem obvious, but it bears repeating. In some areas you’ll likely see Sadhu’s or holy men smoking hashish, but as a foreigner, the easygoing “look the other way” rules do not apply to you and you should not take drugs here as they are illegal. Many travellers don’t realise that even alcohol is illegal in some Northern areas, such as Rajasthan, so always err on the side of caution and ask if you’re unsure.

When to travel to India

Ideally you’ll want to visit India between October and March to avoid the very hot times and the monsoon. They can both be a little uncomfortable, especially if you’re used to a more mild climate. However, if you’re on a really tight budget, visiting off season can be a great option to help you save money. The added benefit of backpacking India off season is that you’ll be able to explore the iconic sights such as the Taj Mahal without the insane crowds.

5 Reasons Why You Should Backpack India Solo In 2017

1.  It’s Never Been Easier For Women To Travel India Alone

India is changing at a crazy pace. Four years ago when I came to India alone, hostels were not a thing yet. And it was much harder to travel here solo, particularly for women. Now, you’ll find SO many popular hostels making it easy to meet other travellers and make your travels in India so much easier.

2. The People Will Change Your Perspective

The people in India are crazy, funny and incredibly friendly. If you’re looking for an eye-opening cultural experience, head to the Northeast of the country, which is a bit more off the beaten track. Here you’ll be able to meet some of the local tribes and learn about their fascinating culture. I recommend Ziro Valley, where you can meet the local Apatani tribe who worship the moon.

 3. The Food Is Unreal

In the North, it’s rich and creamy and in the South it’s fresher and light, often with coconut oil. The seafood at the coast is amazing and you must try the Kingfish Rava fry. It’s safe to say the food in India is on a whole other level: you’ll never experience tastes quite like these.

4.  You will never, ever get bored in India

The Himalayan Mountains, the beaches of Goa, the sweeping rice fields of Kerala, the chaos of Mumbai, the wide open deserts of Rajasthan… There is SO much variety in India that you could spend a lifetime exploring all its secrets. If you’re looking to pack a lot into your trip without too much time spent on planes, India is a fantastic destination.

5. India Will Take Your Style To The Next Level

Ladies, bring less than you think for your trip, because you’ll need the space in your backpack. The shopping here is amazing and you’ll end up with a whole new wardrobe for next to nothing. Gorgeous prints, handmade accessories and exquisite fabrics. Even if you don’t want to haggle, the prices will still seem insanely cheap.

Got a question or some advice about travelling alone in India as a woman? Tell us about it in the comments below ?’

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Is it safe for women to travel in India?

While you can never guarantee safety completely while traveling anywhere, India is considered to be a fairly safe country for women to travel around as long as certain precautions are taken to minimize any potential danger. In order to help you feel safe during your trip, we've put together a comprehensive guide on the things you should be aware of, and tips and tricks to keep in the back of your mind when moving around the country including the do's and don't's of public transport, how to book safe accommodation and what to do when traveling on your own. 

Traveling on public transport in India has its issues and can potentially be unsafe if you don't know what to look out for. We recommend pre-arranging transportation services where possible, such as when you arrive at the airport by organizing private transfers through your hotel or using pre-paid taxis. If you can, it's best to avoid late-night arrivals or departures as the chances of you getting scammed or being charged a higher transportation fee increase. 

When leaving your accommodation to start exploring your surroundings, it's always a good idea to organize transportation through your hotel concierge rather than hailing them straight from the street. Before you get into the taxi make sure it has a working meter or if it doesn't, decide on a fare before you get going to can avoid bargaining with your driver once you arrive at your destination. If you don't feel comfortable catching a taxi or a rickshaw that has a male driver, there are some cities that offer special transportation services driven by women. They are as below: 

• Delhi: Meru Eve Cabs (44224422), Sakha (99991 93004), GCabs (39423942)
• Mumbai: Priyadarshini Taxi Services (43333999), Viira Cab (6120 6120)
• Chennai: Go for Pink (64581111)
• Trivandrum/Kochi: Shetaxi (859 0000 543)

If you do have to catch public transport in the form of a bus or train, be aware of pickpockets as they are known to target travelers and security systems are often scarce. This means you should always be alert and have your belongings where you can see them. You should also avoid taking public transport alone, especially at night, and where possible, ride in the women's carriage on the Delhi, Chennai, and Mumbai metros. 

It's important to note that some of our India itineraries feature overnight train rides. If you need to leave your compartment for any reason (i.e. going to the bathroom), ask a male travel companion from your group to accompany you. Where possible, we will allocate female group members an upper bunk and will not separate female travelers from the rest of the group. 

There are plenty of safe accommodation options in India catering to all kinds of budgets from hostels and other cheap hotels to upmarket, westernized places, however, there are a few easy rules you should follow - regardless of where you stay -  to ensure your stay is a stress-free and danger-free one:

• Take a hotel card with you when going out so you know the address and contact numbers.
• If there is a phone in your room, check that it works. You may need to use it in case of any emergencies. 
• Lock your door when you're inside your room and do not open it to anyone you don’t know. If hotel staff need access to your room for any reason, request that they do this while you are out, or wait at reception while they attend to any cleaning or repairs. For the protection of both our travelers and staff, our leaders worldwide are not permitted to be alone in a room with a group member.
• Inform reception immediately if you notice any doors or windows in your room open or broken; do not enter if they are. Likewise, if you notice any hotel staff acting suspiciously or making your feel uncomfortable, go to your leader or one of your group members so you are not alone. 
• Avoid discussing where you are staying when out in public or sharing too many details of your travel plans with people you meet.

It's entirely possible to feel safe when traveling on your own as a woman in India but you do have to be mindful of your surroundings and not put yourself in situations that are potentially dangerous. The easiest way to do this is by exploring during the daytime, avoiding activities where you know you'll be back to your accommodation after nightfall. 

If someone approaches you while you're out and starts asking questions or making you feel uncomfortable in any way, don't be afraid to say no loudly and sharply and walk away with both purpose and confidence. Shop in areas that are busy, well-lit, and extremely popular, and under no circumstances should you go into storerooms or back rooms of retail shops where you can't see the street. This also means when trying on clothes. 

While dressing however you want may be socially acceptable back home, India is a conservative country, so you need to show respect for their culture by dressing modestly and covering your legs and shoulders, as well as wearing looser fitting clothing. If you're swimming, it's also recommended you wear shorts ad a t-shirt over your swimwear to remain respectful. 

Most importantly, don't do anything you wouldn't do at home. Yes, open yourself up to new experiences but proceed with caution in any situation and always keep in mind the country's culture. For example, you shouldn't be seen to be too friendly with local men at tourist spots or hotel staff (this can include 'conversational' touching while talking) as it can be easily misinterpreted and lead to uncomfortable situations. 

For further information, please visit the following websites:

• SmartTraveller 

Your leader is there to support you throughout your trip and will provide you with their mobile number at the Welcome Meeting.

If you at any time feel threatened, harassed, unsafe or uncomfortable during your trip, please ask your leader for their assistance.

If you would prefer to discuss any issue with a female staff member, please either let your leader know or contact our India office directly on the numbers below:

• During business hours: (9.30am to 6pm) +91 1145 006 400
• After hours or in an emergency: +91 9599914852

Let's create an exclusive trip for your group.

‘Separated’: Why is India sealing its Myanmar border, dividing families?

Families, trade and life in this pocket of northeast India knew no national borders. Until now, with a pre-election decision threatening to rupture everything they’ve known.

Zokhawthar, Mizoram, India – For 61-year-old Vanlalchaka, the past few weeks have been filled with anxiety.

In the northeastern Indian border village of Zokhawthar, perched on a mountainside amid green hills, Vanlalchaka’s farm has been a safe haven for refugees fleeing the civil war in neighbouring Myanmar since 2021. Five refugees live there currently and Vanlalchaka has been leading efforts in the village, which sits on the banks of the Tiau River, to help others coming from across the border.

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Like his ancestors, he said, he has never acknowledged the political borders that divide his ethnic tribe – known as the Chin in Myanmar, Mizo in India’s Mizoram state and Kuki in the Indian state of Manipur.

Vanlalchaka’s wife, BM Thangi, is from Myanmar’s Chin state. Vanlalchaka goes by a single name as is the custom in his community.

“The people of Zokhawthar and Khawmawi [the adjacent border village in Chin state] operate as a single village,” said Vanlalchaka, sitting with Thangi, 59. “When someone dies, we join the funeral process; when someone falls ill, we cross the border to visit patients and stay overnight if needed.”

That might not be possible any more.

As Mizoram prepares to vote on April 19 in the first of seven phases of India’s national election, its border communities are grappling with a deep rupture in their way of life.

For centuries, several Indigenous communities in India’s northeastern states of Mizoram, Nagaland, Manipur, and Arunachal Pradesh have shared the same ethnicity and lived on both sides of the present 1,600km (1,000-mile) international border between India and Myanmar. Their coexistence as one community, in effect, continued even after India and Myanmar gained independence because of a largely porous border.

In 2018, the Indian government of Prime Minister Narendra Modi went one step further in its outreach to the country’s northeast and to the then-democratic government of Myanmar: it declared a free movement regime with Myanmar that allowed people on either side of the border to cross 16km (10 miles) into the other country without a visa. People needed a border permit, valid for a year, to stay on the other side of the border for about two weeks at a time.

But this February, weeks before the multi-phase elections begin, the Indian government scrapped the pact “to ensure the internal security” and “to maintain the demographic structure” of the regions bordering Myanmar, said Amit Shah, India’s home minister.

That decision came amid increasing clashes in Myanmar between a range of rebel groups and the military that grabbed power in 2021 through a coup. Those clashes have in turn sparked a refugee crisis, turning towns like Zokhawthar into safe havens for fleeing people. But many in India’s northeast see a deeper political reason behind the decision to seal the border: blaming migrants and refugees is a convenient escape from addressing deeper internal security failures that have led to the eruption of violence in the region in recent months.

For Vanlalchaka and others in his village, though, the politics is secondary — and the end of the free movement regime feels personal.

“The central government’s [decision of] border fencing and the end of the FMR will separate our families,” said Vanlalchaka. “It is just unfortunate,” his wife Thangi added.

‘For what?’

From trade to farming, the lives of thousands of people have long been dependent on open borders: Zokhawthar’s favourite betel nuts and handmade cigarettes are bought from Myanmar; the beer cans have the country’s labels; and getting around Mizoram’s rugged border terrain is impractical without a Kenbo-125 motorbike — which also comes from Myanmar.

“We mainly rely on border trade. If the import of essential commodities for our livelihood stops, most of the residents of this village will have to migrate because they will be jobless,” said Vanlalchaka.

Since the 2021 military coup in Myanmar, Mizoram has hosted thousands of refugees fleeing violence, despite opposition from the federal Indian government, which in September asked the state government to collect biometric details of Myanmar refugees. The state government refused.

Nearly 80,000 refugees and asylum seekers from Myanmar live in India, 53,000 of them since the 2021 coup. Mizoram alone hosts half of them — 40,000 refugees — according to 2023 data from the UNHCR, settled in makeshift camps in villages like Zokhawthar.

“Like other Mizoram residents, we have many close relatives in Myanmar,” said Thangi. Last month, she was joined by her elder sister, Marovi, and her family, who flew from Kalemyo, in Myanmar, amid worsening fighting. “Their house was bombed this morning,” she added, “we are fortunate it didn’t happen while they were at home.”

Their eldest sister, 73-year-old Lalchami ran away with her two children when the raging battles neared their home in 2022. Now, Lalchami and her children live on the farmland of Vanlalchaka, in a makeshift shanty made of wood and tin sheets. Lalchami’s 42-year-old daughter, Malsawmsangi, suffers from breast cancer.

“My daughter’s cancer has now spread to her lungs. If we remain in Myanmar, it will be very difficult for her to get treatment,” Lalchami told Al Jazeera. Their nearest medical facility is in Kalemyo, now a battleground, while medical facilities in Yangon and Mandalay remain inaccessible to them.

“What if we return and the fighting starts again? We are fortunate that she can receive medical treatment in Mizoram,” she said. “In our situation, the attempt to separate us [by the Indian government] is just sad and puts us in a vulnerable position.”

The pushback

The Indian government’s move has led to pushback — not just from border communities but also from political leaders in two states, including allies of Modi’s Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP).

Mizoram’s Home Minister K Sapdanga has described the India-Myanmar border as a colonial legacy driving ethnic divisions. In February, he said people “have been dreaming of reunification and cannot accept the India-Myanmar border imposed upon us”. Earlier, Sapdanga’s party, the Zoram People’s Movement, had made it clear that they would not join hands with either the BJP or the opposition Congress-led alliance to “maintain its identity as an independent regional party free from [New] Delhi’s control”.

In Nagaland, a party allied to the BJP moved a resolution in the state assembly on March 1 arguing New Delhi’s decision to scrap free movement would disrupt age-old ties.

Across the border, the National Unity Government (NUG) — Myanmar’s government-in-exile comprising lawmakers removed in the 2021 coup — too has concerns about India’s policy shift.

“Burma is at war and it is a resistance war; the country is not in a normal situation,” a senior official of the NUG’s foreign ministry said in a phone interview, speaking under condition of anonymity from an undisclosed location. “And we rely heavily on India in seeking humanitarian assistance because our people are running for their lives from the junta.”

The official said the NUG had articulated its concerns to India. “New Delhi needs to acknowledge that the FMR is a humanitarian requirement,” the official said. “A country of India’s stature should not impose that kind of humanitarian crisis on our people.”

Fencing the border and ending free movement is also risky in the long run for New Delhi, which for decades has had a tense relationship with India’s northeast — a region that saw major secessionist movements, some of which are still alive.

“Successive governments have realised that local ethnic communities hold the open border policy dear to their social and cultural existence,” said Angshuman Choudhary, an associate fellow at the New Delhi-based think tank Centre for Policy Research (CPR), with a focus on Myanmar and northeast India. “If you tinker with that, you will create new cycles of discontent and violence. There are so many ethno-political differences, and border fencing is another front to oppose the central government.”

Border insecurity

To be sure, India does have its own genuine security concerns.

The Tatmadaw, the Myanmar army, has suffered significant blows in recent months, with the rebel Arakan Army running over many military outposts and making territorial gains in western Myanmar.

The Indian government’s move to fence the border is in many ways “a reaction towards a rapidly escalating and worsening war in Myanmar that poses major border security concerns for India and Bangladesh”, said Michael Kugelman, director of the South Asia Institute at the Wilson International Center, in Washington, DC.

“India wants to do everything it can to reduce the likelihood of spillover effects of the conflict in Myanmar into India,” he said.

But on the ground, managing the border is a complex affair.

The bridge over the Tiau River, connecting Zokhawthar and Khawmawi, was being controlled by the Indian Army’s Assam Rifles, along with the Mizoram Police, and rebels associated with Myanmar’s Chin National Defense Force (CNDF), when Al Jazeera visited in March.

The region just across in Myanmar “is in the people’s hands”, said Rodina, secretary of the CNDF, who — like Vanlalchaka — goes by a single name.

While the CNDF is trying to restart hospitals in the territory it controls, “we cannot admit serious patients due to lack of medical facilities”, Rodina said. “Many patients will still need to go to Mizoram for medical treatment.” It’s unclear how far that might be possible if the border is fenced.

Meanwhile, locals on the Indian side say the Assam Rifles has amped up the presence of armed personnel since the February announcement of the fencing plan.

And New Delhi finds itself in “unchartered territory”, said Choudhary of the CPR, because in the border state of Chin, the CNDF is not the only major rebel force. And the different rebel groups do not always agree. For the moment, he said, India appears to lack a coherent policy on how to deal with these multiple groups.

The Manipur piece of the puzzle

However, some analysts also question whether India’s new policy position is driven in part by another crisis — entirely within India — in the state of Manipur, to Mizoram’s north.

More than 200 people have been killed and thousands more displaced in ethnic violence that broke out in May 2023 and has raged ever since between the Meitei majority population of Manipur and the Kuki and Naga minorities. The state’s BJP government has been accused of fanning tensions to consolidate its Meitei support base — a charge the party has denied.

The BJP in turn has denied those charges and blamed “illegal migrants” from Myanmar for the violence. But critics say that position is aimed at drawing attention away from the government’s internal security failures.

“It is easy for them to point at the borders and say immigrants are responsible – it is just pure distraction,” said the CPR’s Choudhary.

In the past, Choudhary pointed out, Indian governments — including Modi’s — have refrained from moving ahead with border fencing even after deadly ambushes on Indian security personnel by armed fighters who crossed over from Myanmar.

If it goes ahead with fencing this time around, the Modi government risks further alienating already remote communities and “sparking a cycle of discontent, and of violence”, said Choudhary.

“It is all just going to be a mess eventually. And for what?”

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The life and music of Amy Winehouse, through the journey of adolescence to adulthood and the creation of one of the best-selling albums of our time. The life and music of Amy Winehouse, through the journey of adolescence to adulthood and the creation of one of the best-selling albums of our time. The life and music of Amy Winehouse, through the journey of adolescence to adulthood and the creation of one of the best-selling albums of our time.

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