portsmouth nh submarine tour

Self-Guided Tour

See below for self-guided tour of the boat. For self-guided tour of the memorial garden, click here . To see the inside of the visitor center, click here .

Start - On Path Outside Visitor Center Main Entry Door

Visitor Center

Welcome to Albacore Park. The Albacore was a one-of-a-kind submarine built, home ported, and maintained here in Portsmouth by the skilled craftsmen of the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard across the way in Kittery, Maine. The first submarine named Albacore was lost in the Pacific during World War II.

Streamlined hull

Classified by the Navy as an Auxiliary General Submarine, Albacore was the first modern submarine to have the rounded, teardrop shaped hull. Her test or maximum operating depth was 600 feet and her conventional lead acid battery gave her a maximum submerged speed of 25 knots or almost 30 miles per hour. Albacore was built strictly as an experimental submarine - she had no torpedo tubes and carried only pistols and rifles for her security watch. She was small - at 205 feet long, she was two-thirds the length of a World War II Fleet Boat - and fast; with her special silver zinc battery, Albacore could outrun a contemporary nuclear submarine until her battery was exhausted. Albacore was highly maneuverable. Due to the steep angles the boat sometimes took, subway car type straps could be found throughout the boat for people to hang onto when the boat was performing hydrobatics - or underwater acrobatics. In addition to being used as a high speed submarine target, Albacore was the platform for trying out new submarine propulsion and control systems, tactics, and operational concepts.

Launched in August of 1953, Albacore was placed in commission in December of that same year. Albacore remained in active service until September of 1972, when she was decommissioned and moved to the Philadelphia Naval Shipyard. She remained in Philadelphia until 1984, when she was towed to Portsmouth and later moved to her current location in 1985.

In 1989, Albacore was designated a National Historic Landmark due to her contributions to submarine design. In 2000, she was further honored with the designations of being a Historic Mechanical Engineering Landmark for her many unique systems and as a Historic Welded Structure for her hull. In May of 2005, Albacore was inducted into the Submarine Hall of Fame located in Norfolk, Virginia due to her contributions to submarine engineering and tactics.

The pathway to your right leads to our Submarine Memorial Garden which honors the sacrifices made by our submariners.

Dolphin carving

Included in the Garden is a sculpture of a dolphin, the symbol adopted by the submarine force. To learn more about the Memorial Garden, click here.

Straight ahead is the entrance to our Visitor's Center and museum where you may view pictures, ship models and artifacts from the Albacore, purchase tickets to tour the submarine, and purchase submarine related items to remind you of your visit.

Station One - Outside Museum near Propeller Field

Propeller field

In the area in front of you are some of the propellers used by Albacore and other submarines. Albacore was the first modern submarine to have only one propeller. Originally built to use the single large propeller you see, Albacore was later outfitted with two counter-rotating propellers as part of an experiment to provide greater propulsion efficiency. One of the three smaller propellers was a spare for Albacore while the other two are from the USS Jack (SSN 605), the only other US submarine to have a counter-rotating propeller propulsion system.

Under the leadership of Admiral Charles Momsen, Albacore was conceived to inaugurate a radical change in submarine design. Experience in World War II had shown that speed, endurance and maneuverability were key requirements for submarines. As a result, Albacore's hull was designed with underwater speed as the prime requirement. Scale models of the hull were tested in tow tanks and wind tunnels to determine the optimum hull design. With this streamlined hull, Albacore was able to set submerged speed records in 1965, with a conventional lead-acid battery, and again in 1966, with a higher capacity silver-zinc battery. Albacore was also built with a newly developed high-strength steel hull. Along with these two innovations, Albacore was to serve as a test vessel for the newest designs in submarine technology. Throughout her career, she tested many innovative concepts. As a result, the US Navy was able to refine these designs before incorporating them into the fleet. Albacore truly lived up to her motto: "Praenuntius Futuri" or "Forerunner of the Future."

Please proceed to the next station, located at the ship's stern.

Station Two - Outside at Stern of Albacore

X-stern and counter-rotating propellers

As you walk down the length of Albacore toward the entrance at the bow, notice some of her unique external features. She has two counter-rotating propellers which provided greater propulsion efficiency. The rudder and dive planes are in an X-configuration as opposed to the conventional cross arrangement. The X-stern and two propellers were, respectively, parts of the third and fourth phases of Albacore's external control system development and gave the boat great maneuverability submerged and on the surface. Albacore was designed to go through four different phases or configurations of control surfaces and propeller arrangements. The original arrangement of the after control surfaces had them located behind a single propeller in the conventional cruciform or cross configuration with a small set of bow planes located forward on the hull. The second configuration changed the position of the after controls to be forward of the propeller and removed the bow planes entirely.

All submarines are designed with positive buoyancy on the surface. To submerge, valves on top of the four ballast tanks that surround Albacore's hull were opened to let the air escape through the top of the tanks and allow sea water to rush in through flood grates at the bottom of the tanks. As the tanks filled with water, the boat lost its positive buoyancy and submerged. Once the boat was fully submerged, the valves were shut and the tanks were ready for surfacing. To surface, high pressure air was directed into the top of the tanks and the expanding compressed air forced water out through the flood grates in the tank bottoms. Positive buoyancy was regained and the boat rose to the surface.

Please proceed forward to the next station.

Station Three - Outside at the end of the aft exit Ramp

Dive brakes area

Starting just behind the sail, but since welded shut, was a series of ten large doors that ringed the hull. These doors could be popped opened like dive brakes on an airplane to rapidly slow the boat when submerged, in case there was a casualty to the control system. Although they made the boat vibrate heavily, the dive brakes worked as intended. However, they had a tendency to pop open on their own at high speeds due to the sucking action of the water flowing over the doors. Although a good idea, the dive brake mechanism was removed and the doors were welded shut.

Before the dive brakes were installed, a parachute used to decelerate a jet bomber after landing was borrowed from nearby Pease Air Force base. The idea was that the parachute, when released from its housing near the top of the sail, would open and create a large drag force to slow the submarine and tilt the bow upward. However, the parachute material wasn't strong enough and tore away.

Sail with dorsal rudder

Looking up at the after end of the vertical superstructure or "sail", you will see a second rudder. This "dorsal" rudder was used to counter the tendency of the boat to perform a snap or sharp roll when turning at high speeds with the first rudder and stern planes configuration. There was concern that a sharp enough roll would create a control problem wherein the rudder and stern planes would reverse their functions and an uncontrollable dive below test depth would ensue. Testing proved this not to be true and the dorsal rudder was deactivated. A similar rudder/stern planes situation was predicted with the x-stern and the dorsal rudder was reactivated. However, a vernier system was installed which, when activated, limited the amount of rudder (and planes) movement and proved to be an effective way to control the amount of roll.

Just aft of the numeral 5 on the sail are several slots cut into the sail. These slots allowed air to be taken in to the sail and then pass through the main induction valve and into the boat. Through these slots passed air used by the ship's diesel engines when the ship was running on the surface. Some of this incoming air was circulated throughout the boat by the ship's ventilation system.

Please proceed forward to the next station outside the bow entry ramp.

Station Four - Outside at the Ramp to Forward Entry

At the forward end at the very top of the sail, notice the flat windshield and clam shell like doors. There is a small platform up there where the Officer of the Deck (OOD) and one lookout stood their watch when the boat was underway on the surface.

Housing for anchor

Just before you enter the forward access door to the boat, notice the large hinged door up and to your right. Behind this door is the ship's anchor. And look back along the length of the boat and notice how few objects protrude from the hull to disturb the smooth flow of water. Every effort was made to streamline the hull so as to maximize the boat's hydrodynamic design.

Ballast tank

As you enter, notice that there is a thin outer hull and a thicker, inner hull. The outer hull provided Albacore with its streamlined shape while the inner thicker or pressure hull had the strength to resist sea pressure at deep depths. The space here between the two hulls is a part of one of the two forward ballast tanks.

As you enter the boat, be sure to watch your head.

Station Five - Bow Compartment by Escape Trunk

Base of forward escape trunk

As you enter this space, directly in front of you is the forward escape trunk. It was the main entry point for anyone coming on board. As the name implies, it was to be used in case the boat was disabled and unable to reach the surface. A submarine rescue chamber or mini-sub would seat itself on the main deck above the upper hatch and the sub's crew would climb up to it through this trunk. If there was no rescue vessel or chamber available, three crew members at a time could escape into the water from this chamber and, using inflatable life vests, free rise to the surface. The museum has a life vest, known as a Steinke Hood, on display.

Crews berthing port and starboard sides

The bow compartment, the first of five watertight compartments separated by heavy doors, was used principally as enlisted crew's quarters. There were 26 bunks in this space - one of two main berthing areas for the enlisted men. If you were assigned one of the upper bunks, you had to be somewhat of a gymnast to get in and out of it. You can see that some bunks shared space with large valves and other pieces of equipment. The right hand photo shows where 3 additional bunks were located before the bow access doorway that you came in through was cut in the hull.

One of the ship's two high pressure air compressors is located in the space below the berthing area. This vital piece of machinery provided the compressed air, stored in large flasks, that was used to expel water from the ballast tanks when it was time for the boat to surface.

Because Albacore was intended to be a research vessel, there were few creature comfort or homey type items. To begin with, there were just enough bunks for the assigned 50 man crew. And, as you can see, there was very limited storage space for any personal gear. If their bunk was built with a pan, a crew member could gain access to his clothes and toiletries stored in the flat space underneath the mattress by lifting up the pan. The green covers over the mattresses serve several purposes. Firstly, they are fire resistant. A submariner's greatest fear is a fire when submerged. These 'flash covers' protect the mattress from becoming part of a fire. Secondly, the flash cover keeps the ever present moisture in a submarine's atmosphere from being absorbed by the mattress and helps to protect the bedding.

When special projects or tests were undertaken at sea, it was not unusual to have instrumentation spread out over several of the bunks thus creating a shortage of sleeping spaces. It was then that "hot bunking" came into being. Hot bunking is where three people would share two bunks - one person on watch and two sleeping. When the watch ended, one of the two sleepers was up for the next watch and the off-going watch stander climbed into the just vacated "hot bunk". Compounding the bunking situation were the extra personnel now on board to run the test instrumentation. Fortunately, few of the special projects required the boat to be at sea for any extended period of time so the hot bunking was of relatively short duration.

Watertight door to forward battery

Please proceed aft to the next compartment, the Forward Battery. Watch your head as you go through the watertight door.

Station Six - Forward Battery by Pantry

Wardroom pantry

On your right as you enter is a small pantry which held the dishes and silverware for the officers mess. The pantry contained a small warming oven and refrigerator for keeping food warm/cold until it was time to be served. Food was prepared aft in the galley and brought forward and served out of this area.

Commanding officer's stateroom

Across from the pantry on your left is the Commanding Officer's stateroom. A Commanding Officer usually had a room to himself, but because of the small number of berthing spaces, there is a second bunk which was for the Executive Officer. There is under bed storage, a Pullman sink, a desk with drawers for clothing and an upright closet for hanging clothes. Note the instruments mounted at the forward end of the top bunk. They are there so the Captain could tell at a glance the ship's course and speed. There is also a sound powered telephone which allowed the Captain to reach any space in the ship. By simply dialing in the space he wanted to reach and turning the crank on the side of the box, he would be connected to that space.

Officers' stateroom

The next area aft on your left is the three-man officers' stateroom. The officers shared an upright closet and a desk, and each had one drawer in the wardrobe unit. A fold down panel on the front of the unit became a shelf for writing. A Pullman type sink completes the amenities.

Captain's chair in wardroom

Forward end of wardroom

Across from the stateroom is the Wardroom. This is where the officers ate their meals, held meetings, and in general conducted the ship's business. Beside the Captain's chair you can see one of the hand cranked telephone boxes and, above it, instruments that displayed ship's course and speed. At the forward end of the wardroom were lockers containing table and bed linens.

Wardroom settee rigged as a bunk

With a nominal complement of five officers, each officer had his own bunk. However, there were two additional bunks that could be made up in the wardroom when additional officers or senior scientists were on board. The back of the settee in the wardroom could be raised up and supported from the overhead to form one bunk while the settee seat itself was made up as the second bunk. A major drawback to sleeping in the wardroom, aside from the constant use of the space, was that you had to be up and out for every meal.

Station Six A - Aft Bulkhead of Passage to Ship's Office

Ship's office

Continuing aft on your right, the small space behind the wardroom was the Ship's Office. It was here that the ship's yeoman, or enlisted administrative assistant, maintained the ships records and files. Note that he didn't have a computer to work on, just on old fashioned typewriter. There was very limited space to store any supplies or files.

Hatch to forward battery space

The hatch, or access plate, in the deck outside the ship's office/wardroom passage is the entry to the battery compartment below. In this lower space were 250 battery cells that weighed about 1000 pounds each. This, and a second battery located under the Crew's Mess, provided the energy for lights, heat, air conditioning, cooking, was the power source for all shipboard equipment, and turned the main motors that drove the ship through the water when submerged. The batteries were charged by electricity generated by running the two diesel engines located aft in the Machinery space.

During Albacore's third phase conversion to the X-stern, a special high capacity, silver zinc battery was installed. It was this special battery that gave Albacore the power to become the fastest submarine in the mid 1960s.

Goat Locker

The space aft of the Ship's Office is the Chief Petty Officer's bunk room, better known as the "Goat Locker." Three bunks, a Pullman sink, and small vertical lockers round out the amenities for these senior petty officers.

Station Seven - Forward Battery across from Radio Room

Officer's head

On your right as you proceed aft are two small closet-like spaces. The first is the Officer's Shower - about the size of a phone booth. Because fresh water was a scarce commodity at sea, a once-a-week shower was the norm. The second small space is the Officer's Head or toilet. A tank, known as a sanitary tank and located below the deck, held the shower water and refuse material from the toilet until the tank was emptied by pressurizing it with air and blowing the contents into the sea.

Radio shack

On your left just before you enter the next compartment is the ship's Radio Room or communications center. Equipment in this space gave the boat the ability to talk directly to shore stations and ships and aircraft it might be operating with. The Radiomen operated the hydraulics for raising and lowering Albacore's two radio masts.

Watertight door to control room

Please proceed aft to the Control Room, the next compartment. Watch your head as you go through the watertight door.

Station Eight - Control Room Forward by Navigation Center

Access trunk to bridge

As you enter the Control Room, immediately on your right is a door that opens to a narrow trunk that leads to the tiny open bridge atop the forward end of the sail where the Officer of the Deck and lookout stood their watches when on the surface.

Control room starboard side

Across from the bridge access door is the ship's navigation center where the Quartermaster of the Watch was stationed. The ship's quartermasters were responsible for maintaining and projecting the ship's path of travel, referred to as the ship's track, both when surfaced and submerged. The squarish table in the center of this space was used by the navigation team for laying out their charts and plotting the ships position. Under the table was the auxiliary gyro compass. Mounted on the bulkhead aft of the table is the fathometer, a device that measures the distance from the bottom of the ship's hull to the ocean bottom. This was an important navigation tool especially when leaving or entering port. The access hatch to the pump room is located in front of the IC switchboard. This space is a second auxiliary machinery space which contains the trim pump and a second high pressure air compressor.

IC switchboard

Outboard of the table is an array of switches on panels which make up the Interior Communications or IC network. These switches connect or isolate such systems as the sound powered telephones, compass repeaters, and depth and speed indicators. The hatch to the second auxiliary machinery space, which contains a second high pressure air compressor and the trim/drain pump, is located in front of the switchboard.

Ship's announcing and alarm panel

Mounted on the bulkhead forward of the Quartermaster's table is the control panel for the ships announcing systems and alarms.

Aft of the table was where the Messenger of the Watch was stationed. He ran errands for the watch standers which included calling the next watch, carrying verbal messages, and reporting routine occurrences to the Commanding Officer.

In the center of the control room on the raised platform is the ship's periscope, and it is here that the Conning Officer, usually the Captain or the Executive Officer, stood his watch. Unlike today's sophisticated periscopes with radar, radio, TV, and infrared capabilities, Albacore's periscope contained a only a basic set of optics.

Chicken switch

Albacore was built with a number of redundant systems. In particular, the hydraulic systems were state of the art and complex. For example, in addition to the normal and emergency systems for the steering and diving planes, there was a separate set of hydraulics that, in an emergency, would allow the Conning Officer to over-ride and take control of the stern planes. Mounted above and behind the Conning Officer's station was a red colored Emergency Ship Control handle, commonly referred to as the Chicken Switch. If the Conning Officer was not satisfied with either the response of the planesman or the actions of the diving planes, he could take control and move them himself. The whole boat shook when the chicken switch was used.

Control room port side

To the left of the raised platform is the ship control area. The two seats were occupied by the Diving Officer (the inboard or nearest seat) and the Helmsman (outboard seat). The two shared the positioning of the x-stern control surfaces. The Helmsman was responsible for using the rudder function to steer the ordered course. The Diving Officer, using the diving plane function, was responsible for reaching and maintaining depth. The inboard (Diving Officer) set of controls could be electrically connected to control both the diving planes and rudder. Using the buttons on top of the control wheel, the Diving Officer also controlled the dorsal rudder located on the aft end of the sail. The row of red lights directly in front of the Diving Officer indicated the position of the dorsal rudder.

Notice the three colored buttons on the panel in front of the Diving Officer. The green button sounded the Diving Alarm. Two blasts of this alarm alerted everyone that the boat was going to submerge. Three blasts from this same alarm was the signal for surfacing the boat. The yellow alarm button was that of the General Alarm. This alarm alerted everyone to proceed to their General Quarters or Battle stations. The red button sounded the Collision Alarm which caused the heavy watertight doors to be shut and dogged tight and the ventilation system valves between compartments to be shut. This provided the maximum amount of watertight integrity in case a collision produced a break in the pressure hull.

Trim manifold

The Diving Officer was responsible for reaching and maintaining the ordered depth and for the "trim" of the boat. The boat was balanced or "trimmed" by adding or removing seawater from special 'trim' tanks located forward, midships and aft inside the pressure hull. For safety reasons, most submarines adjusted their trim such that they were slightly positively buoyant so that if they lost propulsion, the boat would slowly rise to the surface. Positive buoyancy usually required that water be pumped out of the midships auxiliary tanks after the boat was properly trimmed fore and aft. For ease of remaining on depth, the angle of the boat was adjusted downward by shifting water from the after to forward trim tank. Albacore usually maintained a one degree down bubble or angle to counteract the upward force of positive buoyancy. The Diving Officer gave orders to the Trim Manifold Operator who, through a series of valves and pumps, moved water in and out to sea and between tanks.

Christmas tree panel

Standing directly behind these seats was the Chief of the Watch. At his station was the Christmas Tree, a panel of red and green lights that indicated the condition of all the openings in the ship's hull that could cause flooding of the boat. A red circle indicated that a valve or hatch was open, and a straight green light meant that it was shut. Before the boat was submerged, the Chief of the Watch would call out "Straight Board" so that the Conning Officer would know that all hull openings were shut and it was safe to dive.

The Chief of the Watch functioned as the Ballast Control Panel or BCP Operator, Trim Manifold Operator, and Air Manifold Operator. Upon command from the Conning Officer to submerge the ship, the BCP operator positioned electric switches, located on the bottom half of the Christmas Tree panel, that opened valves to let air out of the four ballast tanks that surround Albacore's hull. Once submerged and functioning as the Trim Manifold operator, he shifted water, at the direction of the Diving Officer, in and out of the internal tanks to balance the boat. Also as BCP operator, he positioned switches to admit high pressure air into the ballast tanks when it was time to surface the submarine.

High-pressure air manifold

Acting as the Air Manifold operator, the Chief of the Watch stood ready to direct high pressure air into Negative and Safety tanks when directed.

Station Nine - Outside Sonar Room

Sonar consoles

As you move aft to the next section of the compartment located behind the Air Manifold, you will find the Sonar Room. When submerged below periscope depth, the Conning Officer relied upon Sonar (Sound Navigation and Ranging) to serve as the eyes and ears of the ship. Two large consoles sit against the after bulkhead in Sonar. Albacore had two types of sonar mounted in her bow. One was passive where the operator listened for sounds created by other ships, sea creatures, or the weather. Passive sonar only gave us a direction to a noise. If the contact was a ship, the operator could, by listening, determine characteristics such as how many propellers it had, how many blades on each propeller, and how fast the propellers were turning and could estimate the type of vessel - merchant, fishing boat, warship, etc. Active sonar required the projection of a sound wave into the water and the listening for a returning echo. Active Sonar gave the operator bearing and range information. All sound contacts were logged and, if so designated by the Conning Officer, were tracked to determine whether or not they posed a threat of collision to Albacore.

Radar console

LORAN console

Forward of the sonar consoles is the ship's radar unit. When on the surface, it was used for navigation and detecting ships. When submerged, it could be used at periscope depth to search for nearby surface contacts when the antenna was raised above the surface on its retractable mast.

Master gyro compass

Opposite the Sonar Room on the deck is the master gyro compass, and mounted on a bulkhead to the right is the Loran or Long Range Navigation unit. Functioning something like today’s satellite navigation system, Loran used signals from two or more know radio station sites to provide lines of position which the Quartermaster's plotted on special Loran charts to determine the ship's location.

Watertight door to after battery

Please proceed aft to the After Battery, the next compartment. Watch your head as you go through the watertight door.

Station Ten - After Battery by Galley/Scullery

Ship's galley

Immediately on your right as you entered is the ship's galley where all the food was prepared. Electric ovens, a deep fat fryer and a grill top were the only cooking facilities. From this galley, the ship's cooks prepared breakfast, lunch, and dinner for the 55 officers and crew. In addition, a mid afternoon meal known as "soup down" of hot soup and sandwiches was served to all hands. "Mid rats" or midnight rations were served at 11:15 pm for the oncoming and off going watch standers. Also from this small galley, the ship's baker daily prepared fresh rolls, bread, pies, cakes and other pastries during the midnight to 4 am mid-watch.

Opposite the galley is the scullery where all the pots, pans, silverware, glassware, and dishes were washed. The cooks were assisted by junior members of the crew, referred to as "mess cooks," in preparing, serving, and cleaning up after each meal. The length of time one spent as a mess cook was usually 90 days.

Crew's mess

Down from the scullery area are three tables which constitute the mess deck or crews eating area. The mess deck was used as the site for all hands meetings and briefings, the place where the evening movie was shown, and was the site for letter writing, card playing, a place to study for advancement examinations, or where you could get a cup of coffee and relax for a few minutes.

Entrance to Hogan’s Alley

Hogan's Alley outboard looking aft

Opposite the mess decks was the entrance to the second of the crew's berthing areas known as Hogan's Alley. This area has 21 bunks for a total of 47 bunks between here and the bow compartment for the 50 enlisted men. (remember the three bunks in the Goat Locker?).

Under the berthing and mess deck areas is a second battery compartment identical to that of the forward battery. If you didn't see it on your way in, there is a typical submarine battery cell located in the Visitor's Center.

Station Eleven - Aft end of After Battery in the vicinity of Crews Washroom

Crew’s washroom

Crew’s head

At the after end of this compartment are the crew's washroom and toilet facilities to serve the 50 man enlisted crew. The toilets were flushed using sea water and drained into a second sanitary tank located under the deck. Because fresh water was costly in electricity to make at sea, fresh water usage was pretty much limited to about a gallon per man per day. A partial sink full of water was used to take a "bird bath." This consisted of brushing teeth, shaving, washing hands, face, and whatever parts of the body needed washing. Due to sanitation requirements, only the cooks, baker and mess cooks were allowed to exceed the stringent water limitations. A weekly shower was taken if there was sufficient fresh water available.

Under the deck at the very aft end of the compartment are refrigerated spaces consisting of a chill room, a freezer and also a dry store room. When the ship was to be at sea for a prolonged period of time, canned and dry goods were stored down here and in lockers throughout the ship because there is never enough storage space for food on a submarine. Although never done on Albacore because of her relatively short periods at sea, it was not unusual for a boat going to sea for a long time to have cases of canned goods on the deck until space became available in the designated food lockers.

Watertight door to machinery compartment

Please proceed aft to the Machinery Compartment. Watch your head as you go through the watertight door.

Station Twelve - Machinery Space Under After Escape Trunk

Starboard engine room

Just inside the door on either side as you entered this aft-most compartment are two sound isolated spaces for the two main diesel engines. Manufactured by General Motors, these two high speed engines powered generators that produced the electricity to drive the main motors, charge the two high capacity main storage batteries, and provided service power for lights, hot water, cooking and other housekeeping functions. Turning at a constant speed of 1500 RPM or twice the speed of earlier submarine diesels, these light weight aluminum engines had a history of frequent breakdowns. Albacore's two engines were the last ones of this type in active service. These engines, installed in an entire class of six submarines, were removed and replaced because of their unreliability. Those 24 dismantled engines and their repair parts were warehoused and used to keep Albacore's engines operational. One of the considerations for retiring Albacore was the cost to the Navy of either buying and installing new engines or starting up a long dormant production line to make additional repair parts since she had nearly used up all the parts taken from the other submarines.

After escape trunk

Above your head in between the two engine spaces is the after escape trunk. This trunk served the same purpose and functioned the same way as the trunk in the Bow Compartment.

Cubicle starboard side

Cubicle port side

Located just aft of the escape trunk is an area known as "Maneuvering," and at its center is the propulsion cubicle. The cubicle was the watch station of the main power electricians, and it was here that electricity from the main generators (when running on the surface) or from the battery (when submerged) was applied to the main motors in response to the Conning Officer's speed orders.

Distilling unit control panel

Aft on the port side is where the two 300 gallon per day fresh water distilling units are located. These units took in sea water, boiled it and condensed the steam to make fresh water. Fresh water was stored in several tanks throughout the boat and was used for maintaining the main batteries, cooking and washing in that priority.

Station Thirteen - Machinery Space beside Main Motors

Main motors

On your left as you continue aft are the two main propulsion motors. Albacore was originally built with one motor, one propeller shaft, and one propeller. As part of the Phase Four conversion package, this compartment was cut open and extended in length to accommodate a second main motor, which was placed aft of the original motor. Each motor can produce 75 hundred horse power. The original propeller shaft connected to the forward motor was replaced by a smaller diameter shaft that fit inside the second, hollow shaft attached to the after motor. The motors were wired such that they always turned in opposite directions. When you walk past the stern on your way back to the museum, notice that the propeller blades are pitched in opposing directions so that they both provide thrust in the same direction even though they are turning in opposite directions.

Hydraulic pumps and MG sets

As you continue aft, you can see a maze of pipes and various pieces of auxiliary machinery such as lubricating oil and hydraulic oil pumps and accumulators or pressurized storage flasks. The lube oil pumps supplied oil to main motor and propeller shaft bearings to keep them moving freely and to prevent overheating. The hydraulic pumps kept pressure up in systems that operated the periscope, steering and diving planes, main air induction and engine room air supply valves, and the vent valves on the ballast tanks.

Station Fourteen - Machinery Space Aft near bridge over propeller shafts

After bulkhead starboard side

This picture shows the propeller shaft in the right hand side as it penetrates the pressure hull through the aft bulkhead of the machinery compartment. In the lower left side is the end of one of the hydraulic rams that position the control surfaces on the x-stern. The yellow box at the top of the picture is a battery powered emergency light that would come on if normal lighting power was lost. The orange colored box contains flashlights for emergency use.

For almost 19 years, Albacore served the Navy as an experimental vessel. Prior to Albacore, the fastest a submarine could go underwater was about 12 knots or about 13 miles per hour. In 1966, Albacore set a submerged speed record of 35 knots or just over 40 miles per hour. One of her last experiments was an attempt to make her even faster. Dubbed the Slippery Water project by some, its intent was to reduce the friction of the water flowing over Albacore's hull reducing the drag force and thus make the boat go faster. While the test results indicated about a 10% speed increase, the relatively small gain in speed was outweighed by the short duration of the system's effectiveness and the complex mechanical installation required.

In summary, Albacore was an undersea laboratory that demonstrated the use of several types of towed sonar devices, tested four different propulsion and control surface arrangements, evaluated several combined instrumentation panel displays, used sound quieting techniques for rotating machinery, introduced aviation type controls, evaluated a more effective ballast tank blow system, and introduced the fiberglass sonar dome as a replacement for the standard steel dome.

Notable among devices and systems tried but not universally adopted for use on later U.S. submarines were: dive brakes, the dorsal rudder, slippery water, counter-rotating propellers and the x-stern. While some foreign built submarines have adopted the x-stern, only the USS Jack, a nuclear powered submarine, was built with counter-rotating propellers.

Bridge over propeller shafts

Exit from machinery compartment

This completes your tour. To exit, please step up and over the propeller shafts and pass out through the door on the other side. Should you have any questions about Albacore, please inquire at the Visitor Center, where you will also find the gift shop. To take a virtual tour of the Visitor Center, click here . To take a virtual tour of the memorial garden click here .

Thank you for visiting the historic ship Albacore.

• Know Before You Go
• Visitor's Guide

Albacore Park

There Is A Unique Military Relic Hiding In The Small Town Of Portsmouth, New Hampshire And The History Is Fascinating

Alex Borelli

I have been writing for Only In Your State since 2022. I love geography, history, and anything travel-related.

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While most Americans likely know about the countless battlefields scattered throughout the United States – Gettysburg, Vicksburg, and Antietam to name just a few – these same people might not be familiar with the many decommissioned Navy submarines open for tours around the country. These vessels give visitors an opportunity to learn about another more-hidden side of American military history. One place where you can see a former member of the U.S. Navy fleet is Portsmouth, New Hampshire, home to the USS Albacore.

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Touring the USS Albacore is a great, family-friendly way to learn about America’s military past. You are able to see how Navy servicemen during the Cold-War era lived and worked aboard a vessel which was one of the first of its kind. If you are ever in southern New Hampshire do not miss this fun, educational attraction. To learn more about touring this vessel, be sure to check out the Albacore’s website and the submarine’s Facebook page . When you’re done with your tour, recharge with a burger and shake at BRGR Bar . Have you been aboard the Albacore ? Let us know about your visit in the comments!

OnlyInYourState may earn compensation through affiliate links in this article. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.

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USS Albacore

(603) 436-3680

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569 Submarine Way, Portsmouth, NH 03801, USA

Explore this remarkable submarine designed by the US Navy to test top-secret features used on modern-day submarines. This designated National Historic Landmark is open to the public for self-guided tours, where you'll be able to explore the control room, bunkrooms, and equipment used by crewmembers at sea.

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USS Albacore Museum

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USS Albacore Museum - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (2024)

• Mon - Wed 9:00 a.m. - 4:30 p.m.
• Thu - Sun 9:30 a.m. - 4:30 p.m.
• (0.20 km) Portsmouth Downtown With A View And Bring Your Dog Too!
• (0.21 km) Luxury waterfront condo in downtown Portsmouth
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• (0.65 km) Hampton Inn & Suites Portsmouth Downtown
• (0.59 km) Sheraton Portsmouth Harborside Hotel
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• (0.40 km) Barrio
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• (0.69 km) Earth Eagle Brewings
• (0.94 km) Durbar Square Restaurant

Tour the USS Albacore Submarine in Portsmouth

I don’t think I’m the type of person who could travel in a submarine. I’m fine doing the one at Disneyland . But the idea of being surrounded by water, while inside a “tin can” doesn’t appeal to me. That said, I enjoyed touring the USS Albacore in Portsmouth during a weekend visit to New Hampshire.

If you’re looking for fun family activities while visiting New England, the USS Albacore submarine and museum is worth a stop. Here’s a rundown on what you can expect during your visit.

Background on the USS Albacore

After purchasing our tickets in the main building, we spoke to a couple of volunteers to learn more about the submarine. The USS Albacore wasn’t a wartime submarine. It was a research submarine.

Many other submarines of the era were narrow – like the USS Dolphin, now on display at the Maritime Museum of San Diego – but the USS Albacore had more of a teardrop-shaped hull. The purpose of the new hull shape was for speed and maneuverability. One of the volunteers said the submarine was able to travel about 35 miles per hour underwater.

RELATED POST: Tour the USS Dolphin in San Diego

The submarine went through multiple configurations int he 1950s and 1960s. The current propeller and back fin design wasn’t the original setup. And, the submarine didn’t start out with a dual-propeller design, either.

The USS Albacore retired in the early 1970s and she opened to the public for tours in the mid 1980s.

Inside the USS Albacore Submarine

The entrance to the submarine is near the front of the sub. After walking across the gangway, you’ll enter the front compartment. In other submarines I’ve toured, the front compartment usually is a torpedo room. In this one, it’s bunk beds.

I found that being short probably worked better for people assigned to a submarine. The compartment doors aren’t quite as tough to get through as the ones on the B-39 Soviet Submarine I toured in San Diego.

RELATED POST: Tour the Becuna submarine at the Independence Seaport Museum in Philadelphia

As you make your way through the submarine, you’ll find rooms typical of any military vessel. There’s the captain’s quarters, mess hall, control room and engine room. Don’t rush through your visit; Experience the submarine. Sit at the controls, look through the periscope and imagine being fully submerged, speeding through the ocean.

After checking out the engine room, you’ll pass over the shafts that lead to the propeller and out the back door of the submarine.

Take Advantage of the Free Audio Tour

Throughout your tour, you’ll see audio boxes or little red buttons. It’s okay to push these red buttons on the sub. They aren’t a torpedo launch button (wink, wink). The buttons are located every few yards inside the submarine and provide an audio tour of what you’re seeing.

RELATED POST: Explore the USS Growler submarine at the Intrepid Sea, Air and Space Museum in New York City

Taking a step beyond the “You’re standing in the galley” info, the audio tour includes real stories from people who sailed on the USS Albacore. One crewman described the submarine submerging and he was sitting in his chair in the sonar room. Not long after, he was facing straight up as the front of the submarine bounced off the bottom of the ocean.

I really enjoyed the audio tour so I could learn more about what life was like on the submarine. It’s similar to the audio tour available at the USS Midway in San Diego . However, the red buttons aren’t always very obvious, so you’ll need to be on the lookout for them. There are signs and arrows, but even then, they’re easy to miss.

Don’t Miss the Museum

After touring the USS Albacore, I’m pretty sure many people don’t even realize there’s a small museum exhibit in the main building. Of course, there’s a gift shop in the spot you bought your admission tickets. Access the museum through a door to the left of the ticket counter.

The museum includes information about multiple submarines. One exhibit highlights the depth records of the USS Dolphin . But why is there an exhibit about the USS Dolphin, when that submarine is on display on the other side of the country? Because it was built in Portsmouth, New Hampshire.

So between the USS Dolphin and the USS Albacore, the Portsmouth shipyards held records for depth and speed, respectively.

Walk Through the Memorial Garden

Either before or after your tour of the submarine or museum, take a moment to walk through the memorial garden. There are several memorials that recognize sailors lost at sea, including those lost in the line of duty.

The memorial garden honors the crews of prior ships that held the name USS Albacore, including one lost in World War II. The garden is a peaceful way to honor those who have given their all and are lost at sea.

The Details

Address:  600 Market St, Portsmouth, NH 03801

Cost:  $9 per adult. $4 for children, ages 5-14. $20 for a family of four (2 adults + two children). Children under 5 are free. $8 for seniors and retired military. Active duty military are free.

Hours:  Open Thursday-Sunday, 9:30-5 p.m.

Website: https://www.ussalbacore.org/

Phone:  (603) 436-3680

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I just discovered this and we thank you for putting it together. However, a ‘gangplank’ is not a term used for the particular entry or exit way for the submarine. (Not unless you are walking the plank!) The most proper term is “Brow” for Forward Brow or After Brow or you CAN use ‘Gangway’. If you could make that tweak, we’d be most grateful.

Thank you for visiting us and the next time you do, please ask for me. I’d love to meet you. Thanks and have a great day!

Best regards, Patricia Violette Executive Director Albacore Park Portsmouth Submarine Memorial Assn 603-436-3680 http://www.ussalbacore.org [email protected]

Luckily, there were no planks to walk at the museum. 😉 I appreciate you letting me know about the needed word change in the article. I’ve edited it to read “gangway”. My wife and I enjoyed our visit and hope to direct other people to the area to learn more about this great little sub.

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Albacore Park Submarine and Museum

600 Market Street, Portsmouth, NH 03801 - United States

603-436-3680

The USS Albacore is a research submarine, designed by the U.S. Navy to test experimental features used in modern submarines. The Navy tested top-secret features that led to the high-speed silent operation used on modern U.S. submarines. Today Albacore has been preserved and opened to the public.

What is there to do and see? Every visitor can go inside and explore this remarkable submarine. You'll be able to look through the periscope, explore the control room, engineering spaces, and bunkrooms, and hear crewmembers tell of things that happened when they were at sea.

How can I visit the USS Albacore? Tours through Albacore are self-guided. As you walk through the ship, a series of audio stations highlight Albacore's unique features. Recordings by former crew members tell about daily life and some hair-raising incidents aboard the sub.

What can I see in the rest of Albacore Park? The Visitors Center is your starting point for the tour. The Gift Shop offers souvenirs of your visit. The Memorial Garden preserves the memory of those who have served on Albacore and other U.S. submarines.

This year's Museum Gallery exhibit features the "Cold War Through Time."

From 1945 to 1991, the Cold War dominated international affairs. The global competition between the United States and the Soviet Union took many forms: political, economic, ideological, cultural. At times the constant arms race burst into armed conflict. But overshadowing all was the threat of nuclear war.

Despite vast numbers of tanks, warships, and other conventional weapons, nuclear weapons defined the Cold War. Soviet planners accepted the possibility of fighting and winning a nuclear war, but United States policy stressed deterrence—discouraging the use of nuclear weapons by threatening nuclear annihilation and millions of deaths in retaliation.

Only secure retaliatory forces could make the threat credible, and that led the United States to develop the "Strategic Triad"—long-range bombers, land-based missiles, and submarines, each force independently able to inflict catastrophic damage on an attacker.

Participation in Museum Day is open to any tax-exempt or governmental museum or cultural venue on a voluntary basis. Smithsonian magazine encourages museum visitation, but is not responsible for and does not endorse the content of the participating museums and cultural venues, and does not subsidize museums that participate.

Albacore Park announces opening, lecture series

PORTSMOUTH. –  Portsmouth Submarine Memorial Association (PSMA) and Albacore Park Museum, 569 Submarine Way, a National Historic Landmark Site, have announced it will open for the season Monday, Feb. 21.

Albacore Park – Home of the USS Albacore Submarine – will be open for tours Monday through Sunday from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. with the last ticket sold at 4 p.m. Visit one of Portsmouth’s most unique sites as you climb in the bunks, sit in the Commander’s seat, look through the periscope and so much more!  Throughout the season, Albacore Park will have regular crew stories, author chats and readings for families, hands-on and engaged activities, and a new museum exhibit complete with a new periscope.

“This is such an exciting time for us at Albacore Park!” said Executive Director Patricia Violette.  “We have many fresh initiatives for this year for new events and educational programming.  Stop by to visit us!”

Regular admission for tours is $9 per adult and $4 per students and children under 14 years of age. Group rates are also available for groups of 10 or more. In honor of our troops, Albacore Park also offers free admission through the Blue Star Museum program for those giving dedicated active service to our country. The Visitor Center, which houses our Museum Gift Shop, will also focus on your entire Portsmouth adventure with brochures, rack cards and maps to guide you along your way.

Albacore Park will continue health and safety protocols to keep our visitors and staff protected during the continuation of COVID-19 recommendations. Everyone must wear a mask at all times. Our staff will regularly sanitize and clean all public areas. Social distancing will continue to be a part of daily operations procedures.

The Albacore's Winter Lecture Series, sponsored by New Hampshire Humanities To Go Program, will kick off Saturday, March 19 with a Zoom lecture.

At 1 p.m., March 19: "Flight of Remembrance: World War II from the Losing Side and the Dream that Led to Aerospace Engineering" with Marina Dutzmann Kirsch is the true story of the speaker’s family before, during and after World War II in Latvia, occupied Poland, and Germany.  None were members of the Nazi Party or Hitler supporters, but Kirsch’s father and grandfather were forced to serve in the German military after fleeing from Latvia to Germany before the first Soviet takeover of the Baltic States. This presentation offers a seldom-shared perspective on the most devastating world conflict of all time, and sheds light on what life was like for a German family during the War. 

Thursday, March 24 at 6 p.m.: Jeremy D’Entremont will present, “New England Lighthouses and the People Who Kept Them in a Zoom lecture.

Everyone knows that there’s something about lighthouses that give them broad appeal, but their vital role in our history and culture is little appreciated. Our early nation was built on maritime economy, and lighthouses were part of the system that made that possible. Due to automation, traditional lighthouse keeping is a way of life that has faded into the past. D’Entremont tells the history of New England’s historic and picturesque lighthouses primarily focusing on the colorful and dramatic stories of lighthouse keepers and their families.

Saturday, April 16 at a time TBA will be a live lecture at the Portsmouth Public Library. "Heroes and Homecomings: Norman Rockwell/WWII" with Jane Oneail. America’s most beloved illustrator created dozens of images related to the second World War. What happens when an artist known for his use of humor tackles the serious subject of war?  This program explores how Norman Rockwell’s work departs form earlier artistic interpretations of American conflicts and considers how and why he chose specific wartime themes to resent to the millions of readers of the Saturday Evening Post.

All lectures are free.  Zoom links will be provided to you upon your RSVP to either 603-436-3680 or [email protected].  The Portsmouth Public Library’s Levenson Room is located at 175 Parrot Avenue in Portsmouth.

Albacore Park, the formal site for the USS Albacore Submarine and museum and home of the Portsmouth Submarine Memorial Association, provides a sprawling park for everyone’s enjoyment. For more information, please call 603-436-3680, visit their webpage at www.ussalbacore.org, or give them a thumbs up on their Facebook page.

USS Albacore - AGSS 569

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Review Highlights

“ The submarine itself was built about 5-10 minutes north at Portsmouth Naval Yard in Kittery, Maine. ” in 17 reviews

“ Also we went on a day with low humidity and in the low 70s, and the inside of the sub was still stuffy. ” in 18 reviews

“ The biggest thing I took from this tour was its validation of my decision to join the USAF instead of the Navy :). ” in 7 reviews

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600 Market St

Portsmouth, NH 03801

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This is by far one of my top three museums I have ever been to, and it's a great attraction to stay entertained for a few hours if you happen to be in the area. It's not every day you get to tour a decommissioned submarine, so I planned this as part of a fun weekend road trip with some work colleagues in-between our training weeks in Boston. They had plenty of parking, and the gentleman managing the gift shop and selling tickets was pleasant to speak with. The ticket prices were quite fair and we set off to board the USS Albacore! While the submarine might be big, the internal compartments are tiny, so definitely mind your head while exploring the inside. They have covered pretty much every risky surface in soft stuff, so anyone paying attention should be safe, though make sure you keep a close eye on your kids as they explore the ship. That said, the rooms and displays inside are fantastic and do a great job portraying what everyday life on an experimental sub was like. There are a few things worth seeing outside the sub as well, with a neat-looking hydrofoil craft and some torpedoes nearby. The gift shop was well-appointed and fairly priced. I would direct your attention to the cool little state magnets and the squishy stress-relief submarines, and I definitely loaded up here on gifts for relatives and some tchotchkes for myself as well. The apparel selection is quite good too! When you consider price, ease of access, and the cool/unique factor, it is exceptionally hard to beat this "living museum". All aboard! Overall: 5.0 stars ----- Pros: - Very cool submarine self-guided tours, lots to learn and see. - Plenty of great photo ops around the grounds. - Pleasant service from the one guy running the place. - Surprisingly good gift shop considering the size of the place. Cons: - Mind your head, and those of your party members as well, on the low ceilings. Imagine having to duck down like this every day for months! Just gives you even more respect for the brave submariners.

Cool submarine!

I was staying at a hotel very close by and as I was driving around I had noticed the submarine and figured I should check it out, how often do you see one just laying around out in the open like that - it was a no brainer. I was able to park easily in the lot which has a plentiful of spaces and then walked over to the visitor center to check in and see how to proceed. The visitor center is where you should start to check out the souvenirs, museum and to purchase a ticket to see the submarine. A ticket at the time of my visit was $9. Visiting hours are from about 9:30 am - 4:30/5:30 pm M-Sun. The museum included various artifacts, pictures, models of past and current ships, and included some short historic films; some new exhibits are also being organized. After checking out the museum I went to check out the submarine. The tour of the submarine is self-guided and features an outside and inside portion with audio stations that you press to hear various information/recordings/stories. As you explore all the different areas/rooms, the audio stations provide stories and personal experiences/thoughts from the crew about daily life and situations. All the areas were accessible and featured such areas control rooms, bunkrooms, mess halls, kitchens and more. I thought this was a cool thing to check out and it was worth the visit. The USS Albacore is a decommissioned research submarine, that was designed by the U.S. Navy to test experimental features used in modern submarines; it pioneered the American version of the teardrop hull form. The Navy tested top-secret features that led to the high-speed silent operation used on modern U.S. submarines. The revolutionary design was derived from extensive hydrodynamic and wind tunnel testing, with an emphasis on underwater speed and maneuverability. It's the third vessel of the United States Navy to be named under the Albacore brand. Albacore was commissioned on December 6, 1953 and was decommissioned on December 9, 1972.

See all photos from Aryo S. for USS Albacore - AGSS 569

We made a pit stop here on our way up to Maine. Very cool experience for the kids and parents to check out. We learned a few things too. It's important these things stick around, receive funding or donations, and get visited regularly. No one should ever forget our veterans and active service members. Good bless America

See all photos from Brian F. for USS Albacore - AGSS 569

Loved this! It was a lot bigger inside than I thought. My 4YO loved all of the different areas and that he could sit in the captain's chair and press ALL the buttons. We went through the whole thing twice so he could do it again. Twice through we were there about an hour. Inside the little store there's also a small walk through area and the employees are knowledgeable about the history of the sub. They do not allow kids under 3 but if you have been here, you know why. There's a lot of climbing through places and even spots that there are openings on the bottom. Tbh I don't think I would bring someone elderly, who is unsteady either. We will definitely be going back to do it again!

The tour that I took explained me was it's like to travel in a submarine. I looked through the periscope, to see the bridge. The periscope is in the control room, where submariners navigated and used sonar.

This place was very cool to see and stop and stretch our legs. I really appreciated the staff supporting active duty military!

I was entirely disinterested in going here but it's cooler than I'd thought it would be. It's a self guided tour and you can push butters and turn wheels and crawl into bunks and take all sorts of fun pictures. The price is right and it's very close to downtown Portsmouth, which is wonderful.

As I was traveling around Portsmouth, NH for work - I came across the park for the U.S.S. Albacore. I was intrigued - and so had to check it out! There is a range of public memorials outside, an interesting museum and gift shop inside, and of course, the submarine. You can actually take tours inside the sub - I did not have time during this visit. However, the museum and the rest of the place was really cool and educational. Definitely worth the time to visit when in the Portsmouth, NH area! #USSAlbacore

See all photos from Neal E. for USS Albacore - AGSS 569

As a bit of a history buff, this was an interesting visit. True confessions, I remember going to a WW2 sub when I was a child so this is not my first rodeo. It was interesting to see the mess and the quarters and imagine being on duty in this sub which being more of experimental vessel to evaluate different tail configurations and propellers would have been considered a premium assignment, it is located right on the border of Maine so a nice little side trip from the south of Portland beach towns.

Cool place. Glad we stopped in to check out. The grounds were well kept neat and clean.

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Join us for our annual Life & Death in the Piscataqua Symposium on February 17, 2024. Click here for details.

The USS Albacore was a research submarine, designed by the Navy to test experimental features used in modern submarines. Today Albacore has been preserved and opened to the public. Tours through Albacore are self-guided. As you walk through the ship, a series of audio stations highlight Albacore's unique features. Recordings by former crew members tell something of the daily life aboard the sub.

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One of America's finest Georgian mansions, and home of two declarations of independence, invites you to explore history in its beautifully furnished authentic interiors, stroll in its elegant gardens, and attend our many events.

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Submarine tour - USS Albacore Museum

• United States    
• New Hampshire (NH)    
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• USS Albacore Museum

I took my grandchildren ages 8 and 10 and we all loved it! They were fascinated touring the... read more

Early sub of experimental design. Get to feel what it was like to love on this cramped boat Better... read more

Submarine tour

Kids of all ages will enjoy this tour of the submarine and in the museum on the dockside too ! !

Great to go through a submarine and see the space, technology (so very very old), and read the descriptions of the excursions and missions. A lot of fun for my nephew!

check this out, take a look inside the submarine and get a feel as to what thee crew experienced. it's creepy inside, very small

This an old submarine that has been turned into a museum. There are red buttons throughout the submarine explaining the particular section you are in as well as real stories from men who were on the submarine. You are able to tour through the whole submarine as well as walk around the outside. There is a small museum with other things which we did not look at and a shop to buy souvenirs. My 4 and 2 year old loved it so much and especially loved that they could lay in the beds! It was $5/per adult or $10 for a whole family

This is a research submarine, and in size - it's the real deal. If you want to truly understand how a sub works, and experience the unbelievably cramped living conditions - don't miss the Albacore.

A fascinating piece of history albeit a bit cramped (if you are claustrophobic) and stuffy. Our little one enjoyed jumping on all the steering equipment!

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USS Albacore, Submarine in a Ditch

Portsmouth, New Hampshire

Submarines on secret missions, at least in Hollywood, are the ones that come across the underwater UFO base or the island filled with dinosaurs. The USS Albacore may have never had such adventures, but we'll never know for sure since a lot of what the Albacore did is still secret. The sub has been retired since 1972, and the Navy still won't tell anyone how fast it could go.

The Albacore was a research sub, testing crackerjack Cold War technology such as underwater parachute brakes and "viscous polymer fluid coatings" on its hull. Its hydrodynamic blimpy shape was unique for its time (although it had been tried years earlier ) so it could duck and weave and run away rather than fight.

And now the formerly swiftest sub in the sea sits in a ditch like a beached whale.

That's for the best, according to Jim Sergeant, the Albacore's no-nonsense curator and park manager. "Portsmouth has the second fastest tidal current in the country ," he said. When we failed to understand why that was important, he added, "if it's not in the water, insurance and liability is a lot cheaper."

Fully exposed, the Albacore's somewhat lumpy black shape reminded us of a giant colon in Philadelphia (maybe a result of all of those polymers?). We tried to forget that as we ducked through a small hatchway into the hull. The secret devices that were once inside have been tucked out of sight, leaving what appears to be a regulation sub interior, at least from what we've gleaned from visits to other tourist submarines .

The Albacore's innards can be viewed as either a marvel of efficiency or a claustrophobic nightmare. 55 men somehow lived in it for months. Every curved wall and ceiling is covered with pipes, valves, knobs, dials, gauges -- head-lumps just waiting to happen. In one corner, twenty bunks are stacked five high in a space the size of a closet. "We started with tour guides," said Jim, recalling when the sub opened as an attraction in 1986. "But we couldn't fit all the people inside." Now visitors are left to themselves, guided by signs and big red buttons that they can push to hear former crewmen talk about life in the scullery or engine room.

Mixing guide-free exploration with a feel-free-to-touch policy is fun for tourists (who can sit in the helmsmen's chairs or peer through the periscope) but it hasn't always been enjoyable for the Albacore's staff. "We haven't really had a problem since we bolted the seats down," said Jim, referring to the seats on the submarine's waterless toilets. "Before that there were several nights when we'd spend about five hours decontaminating and sanitizing and sterilizing." He added that the "problem children" visitors are always adults.

In addition to the submarine, Albacore Park contains a museum with a large model of the sub carved out of a big tree trunk, and a Memorial Garden with tributes to all submariners who've been lost at sea. But the primary draw is the Albacore, its long, trench-wrapped silhouette easily visible from US 1, like a 200-foot-long blackened sausage in a chunky bun.

And despite Jim's explanation, we think the reason the Albacore is in a ditch is because if it were still in the water, someone would fire it up its engines, flip on its secret cloaking device, and, zip!, it would be gone.

Albacore Park

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