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Tested: The Absolute Best GMT Travel Watches for Your Collection

By: Ethan Brehm Published: Oct 25, 2023

By: Ethan Brehm and Johnny Brayson Published: Oct 25, 2023

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With the holidays upon us, many are preparing for their trips, both near and far. But in order to travel, one needs certain accouterments. A suitcase is essential, a passport sure comes in handy, and comfy travel clothes are a must. And then there’s the GMT travel watch. You may think that you don’t need a watch while on vacation . After all, your phone tells you the time, right? But you’d be wrong, as the best GMT watches are indispensable travel partners.

Yes, your phone tells you the time, but does it tell you the local time as well as the time at home at a glance? Didn’t think so. A GMT watch will do this, offering you the time in two places at once with a quick look at your wrist. Not only that, but the best GMT travel watches will also complement any outfit you have on and act as a companion that accompanies you on all your excursions , making memories alongside you. Are we being just a bit romantic about GMT watches? Maybe, but once you know the history of the GMT watch, it’s hard not to wax poetic about them.

Best GMT Watches Breakdown

Best Quartz GMT

Q Timex GMT 38mm

Best Budget Automatic GMT

Seiko 5 Sports SKX Sports Style GMT

Best Microbrand GMT

Lorier Hyperion Series II

Best GMT Diver

Mido Ocean Star GMT

Best Office GMT

Monta Skyquest

Best Vintage-Inspired GMT

Longines Spirit Zulu Time

Best Quartz True GMT

Grand Seiko SBGN027

Best Overall GMT

Tudor Black Bay GMT

Honorable Mention

Rolex GMT Master II

The gmt’s high-flying history.

Come Fly With Me

GMT watches often conjure images of mid-century jetsetters and playboy pilots — think Leonardo DiCaprio in Catch Me If You Can and you’ll be on the right track. That’s because the watches were born in that era for those types of customers. Back in the early 1950s, long-haul intercontinental flights were becoming more and more common. Pan Am, the largest airline of the day, put out a request to watch companies to develop a watch that could track two timezones simultaneously so pilots could monitor the time at both their destination and origin. Two companies answered the call. The first was Glycine, which unveiled the Airman in 1953. That watch kept time on a 24-hour scale, with a rotating 24-hour bezel for tracking a second timezone. The next year, Rolex introduced the GMT Master. It kept time on a standard 12-hour scale but incorporated a fourth hand that made its way around the dial once every 24 hours. A rotating 24-hour bezel was employed here as well, allowing the wearer to track a second timezone on the fourth hand while still reading their current time on a 12-hour scale. Rolex’s design took off like a rocket, and other manufacturers began producing their own GMT watches based on the Rolex template. The age of the GMT watch had begun.

Video Guide: The Best GMT Travel Watches

While we’re suckers for the written word, nothing beats seeing our favorite GMT travel watches in all of their 4k glory.

Types Of GMT Watches

True Vs. Office

True GMT: When researching GMT watches, you may have come across the term “True GMT” and wondered what it meant. In 1983, Rolex made GMT history again. The brand introduced the GMT Master II, a new version of their travel watch icon with a handy new feature. The movement in the GMT Master II allows you to independently adjust the hour hand without stopping the seconds hand or disturbing the other hands. That means that, if your GMT hand is set to your home time, all you have to do when traveling is pop your hour hand over to quickly set your new local time. It’s a faster and more convenient way to set your watch for travel, and some watch enthusiasts consider it to be the only “true” GMT there is. That’s, of course, nonsense — there were GMT watches for nearly 30 years before this type of movement existed — but GMTs with this type of movement, also called a “flyer” GMT, are slightly better for travel.

Office GMT: The other type of (more common) GMT is the “office” or “caller” GMT. Instead of having an independently adjustable hour hand, these GMTs have independently adjustable GMT hands. This is far more convenient if you want to track a second timezone while you’re at home — as someone in a west coast office may do if they have East Coast colleagues — but it isn’t the most convenient arrangement when traveling.

Having said that, we’re talking about a minute or less in the difference it takes to set your local time on a “true” vs “office” GMT, so really any GMT watch will work just fine when traveling.

How We Tested

Our Selection Process

You could easily make a case that enthusiasm for wristwatches has never been higher than it is right now. We’ve seen a definite influx among younger wearers, who are taken by the idea of mechanical masterpieces adorning their wrists, as well as a plethora of new brands cropping up, many of which have something to offer. Not only that, the market now offers us more variety than we’ve ever seen, with wide-ranging prices as well as an increase in specialization. Sure, this means that there are more options out there to delineate, but it also means that the world is proving that digital technology isn’t always what people want.

Nevertheless, selecting the perfect timepiece in any category or price point has become more difficult. To tackle the task of finding the best GMTs out there, we began by selecting the watches we suspected would be the best candidates. Using both the eye test (e.g., design, color , dial configuration) and our expertise in the space to dig through specs (e.g., size, materials, strap, movement), we whittled all the options down to the ones we thought could be worthy of making the cut for this list. We also factored in price, value, and the reputation of the watch’s manufacturer itself, which is an earned quality in this industry.

And then there was the matter of testing the timepieces themselves. Any watch collector can tell you that, regardless of what you read on paper, you truly have to wear a watch on your wrist to get a feel for it and get a sense of the user experience. After acquiring the demo pieces for our initial shortlist, we put the watches on our wrists and put them through a variety of scenarios to see their fit, comfort, and wrist presence firsthand. The overall process took us weeks, but finally we were able to land on the list of the best GMT watches you see before you.

Why It Made the Cut

• Timex’s retro reissue is an incredibly inexpensive option for those into vintage-style timepieces, featuring an integrated bracelet and Pepsi-style bezel.

Best Quartz GMT: We’re so happy that Timex has been embracing retro-style models with its Q lineup. Inspired by the dive style of the original Q from 1979, this 38mm timepiece is still very much a GMT, with its bi-directional “Pepsi” bezel, domed acrylic crystal, hooded lugs, and functional battery hatch on the caseback. It has loads of nostalgia and is a steal at just over $200.

Recently revived in 2019, the Q Timex Reissue features an integrated bracelet with its 38mm barrel-shaped case. It’s incredibly compact, wears small, and feels even smaller than the dimensions suggest, but we love the sharp, angular styling and mix of vertical and horizontal brushing across the top of the main case. If you’re looking to save some shekels with a quality quartz-powered movement and a retro style, this will be your best bet.

Case Size: 38mm Water Resistance: 50m Movement: Quartz

• Seiko taps into the ethos of its discontinued SKX with this 5 Sports watch, featuring vintage charm, an exhibition caseback, and a fair price tag.

Best Budget Automatic GMT: After Seiko discontinued its beloved SKX dive watch, it revamped its entry-level Seiko 5 Sports range, albeit with loose relation to the outgoing models. However, with the debut of the first-ever GMT in the 5 Sports lineup, it finally gave the SKX the homage it deserved. Harkening back to its progenitor with similar color schemes and design ethos, the new 42.5mm GMT features an independently adjustable fourth hand and a rotating 24-hour bezel.

The larger case helps with visibility, as do the Lumibrite-coated hands and indices and the date window magnifier. It also ditches the 5 Sports’ Oyster-style bracelets and opts for a five-link Jubilee-style stainless steel option instead. We love the exhibition caseback to display the 4R34 movement, and the divisive five-row jubilee bracelet adds some charm and comfort that some third-party options forego. Despite the 100m of water resistance, this one certainly has that vintage Seiko diver character. However, the off-centered push-pull crown at 4 o’clock might make you cautious of taking this timepiece on your most aqueous adventures.

Case Size: 42.5mm Water Resistance: 100m Movement: Automatic GMT with manual winding capability

• Lorier’s handsome vintage-inspired watch is very robust, inexpensive, and endlessly classy.

Best Microbrand GMT: The very first Rolex GMT Master in the 1950s was the ref. 6542. It originally came with a lumed red and blue “Pepsi” bezel made of a plastic predecessor called Bakelite. However, concerns over the brittle bakelite cracking and exposing the radioactive tritium lume below caused Rolex to switch to aluminum bezel inserts after just a few years. These days, original bakelite bezel 6542s regularly sell for six figures, but you can get the same vintage feel for far less with this stunning microbrand GMT.

Series II of Lorier’s Hyperion uses Hesalite for its lumed Pepsi bezel insert and domed crystal, offering serious retro vibes to go with its traffic-stopping looks. For just $100 more than the Seiko GMT above, you can get a true GMT with an independent hour hand at an accessible price point. We love everything about this timepiece, including the price, the mid-century-inspired aesthetic that evokes the heyday of aviation, the robust construction featuring a marine-grade steel case and the aforementioned impact-resistant crystal, and, of course, the classy Pepsi bezel.

Case Size: 39mm Water Resistance: 100m Movement: Automatic “True” GMT

• Mido found the perfect middle ground between GMT and dive watch with this Ocean Star, sporting a graduated Pepsi-style bezel.

Best GMT Diver: Dive watch GMTs are becoming more and more popular, as you can see from this guide alone, and while there are several notable examples, our favorite has to be this Pepsi-bezeled Ocean Star from Mido. Whether you’re jet-setting or simply heading out on the trail –– or both –– this 44mm timepiece will do the trick. Boasting 200m of water resistance, the true GMT could have easily copied the styling of the iconic Rolex, but instead, Mido does its own thing with a fixed internal 24-hour bezel on top of the traditional rotating one on the outside.

Mido is a member of the Swatch Group. That means the brands have access to some of the same movements, such as the ETA Powermatic 80 GMT caliber that’s found here, with 80 hours of power reserve. Sure, the 44m steel case feels heftier on the wrist, but that translates to a superb wrist presence for those who want a bit more attention on their timepiece. Fortunately, the flat sapphire crystal helps with the thickness, erring more towards a modern styling in that regard. In terms of the bracelet , we also loved how you could adjust it quickly thanks to the double push button system within the clasp.

Case Size: 44mm Water Resistance: 200m Movement: Automatic “True” GMT

• With 300m of water resistance, the Skyquest from Monta showcases the brand’s unique design language while featuring superb on-wrist comfort.

Best Office GMT: American-owned and Swiss-made, Monta is one of the most highly-regarded microbrands in the business, and the Skyquest is arguably their best watch. The finishing is comparable to watches that cost twice as much, the fully-articulating bracelet features a quick-adjust clasp, the bezel is made of scratch-resistant ceramic, the water resistance is an impressive 300m, the hands are diamond-cut and rhodium-plated, and the GMT hand sports a quirky and ingenious bend that allows it to clear the applied indices while reaching to the outer edges of the dial.

Opposed to some other office GMT models, the Skyquest may be a little pricier, but with that price, you get a lot more than you’ve bargained for. This includes the in-house M-23 automatic movement , the overall build quality and finishing, and the Coke bezel, which nods to Rolex’s Pan Am collab in the ’80s. At 40.7mm across, the timepiece wears slightly smaller than you’d expect thanks to the lugs, which curve slightly towards the wrist. Operating with its own unique design language, the Skyquest is truly a sight to behold in person, with its features popping off the wrist and its contrast lending to nice visibility. We also love the bracelet, which features fully articulating links and supreme comfort.

Case Size: 40.7mm Water Resistance: 300m Movement: Automatic “Office” GMT

• Longines nods to its aviation-filled past with the Spirit Zulu Time, which pops off the wrist thanks to its 18K gold accents and handsome design.

Best Vintage-Inspired GMT: Longines may be one of the oldest Swiss watch manufacturers in existence — the brand was founded in 1832 — but they remain on the cutting edge of the industry, even credited with having the first watch with more than one time zone. Last year, it added a true GMT to its Spirit line. Named after a watch from about 100 years ago (which took its name from the military term for “GMT”), the Zulu Time is a watch made for true globetrotters, with 72 hours of power reserve and an independently set hour hand.

As classy as ever, the Spirit Zulu Time is a pilot’s watch through and through, with inspired colorways, a 72-hour power reserve, superb dial visibility, and easy adjustment. At a wearable 39mm, the stainless steel timepiece was dropped down a few sizes from its 42mm predecessor and the difference in comfort is noticeable on-wrist. Aesthetically, the 18K yellow gold accents truly pop and bring a great deal of wrist presence to the timepiece. Not to mention, Longines has several other variants if this handsome anthracite version isn’t for you.

For a deeper dive, read our Longines Spirit Zulu Time watch review .

Case Size: 39mm Water Resistance: 100m Movement: Automatic “True” GMT

• Pricier for a quartz watch, Grand Seiko proves that it’s movements are no cheap endeavor, while also finding a compromise between sportiness and class.

Best Quartz True GMT: The first watch to feature a GMT version of Grand Seiko’s lauded 9F High-Accuracy Quartz movement — arguably the best quartz movement in the world — this may be the ultimate “grab and go” travel watch. Accuracy is conservatively rated to within 10 seconds per year (1 second per year anecdotes are not unheard of), the finishing is easily the best you can get for the price thanks to Grand Seiko’s famed distortion-free Zaratsu polishing, and the handmade, fully-decorated, thermocompensated movement is a “true” GMT. Plus, it’s got looks for days.

Decidedly sportier than Grand Seiko’s typical options, this SBGN027 is certainly more expensive than your average quartz piece, but here it serves to preserve the timekeeping of the watch itself. Even when the offset crown is pulled out, the quartz GMT continues to keep the time. In-person, the 39mm diameter and 45.9mm lug size are about as perfect of proportions as you can get for everyday watch wearing. We’re also fans of the fixed 24-hour bezel with its black embossing and radial-brushed steel. The three-link steel bracelet looks beautiful, matching the case finish, and is easy to adjust with the screw posts and push-button clasp.

Case Size: 39mm Water Resistance: 200m Movement: Quartz “True” GMT

• Tudor’s near-perfect GMT utilizes its iconic Black Bay as the base layer, continuing to challenge conventions while maintaining a traditional ethos.

Best Overall GMT: As the more affordable sister brand to Rolex, Tudor has long had the reputation of offering Rolex quality and style for less eye-watering prices. And that’s never been more true than with this modern classic. Based on the brand’s popular vintage-inspired Black Bay diver, this GMT boasts a bi-directional bezel with a beautiful aluminum Pepsi insert, a subtly textured dial, and an in-house automatic movement with a “true” GMT function. It’s the closest one can get to a Rolex GMT — vintage or modern — without coming close to approaching the five-figure mark.

First debuting in 2018, the Black Bay GMT is still a favorite today. Boasting 200m of water resistance, this piece may have some definite diver properties, but we love it as a travel watch the most. Inside the 24-hour Pepsi bezel is a pearl-like opaline white dial, which is a nice change of pace from the typical dark GMT dials. Despite the modern touches, this automatic true GMT has some vintage design cues, including the aforementioned bezel with its coin edge and the domed sapphire crystal. Hopefully, Tudor will soon include its T-Fit adjustment system on the newer Black Bay GMTs, even if the bracelet is still really comfortable.

For a deeper dive, read our Tudor Black Bay GMT watch review .

Case Size: 41mm Water Resistance: 200m Movement: Automatic “True” GMT

• You can’t have a “Best GMT” list without including the most lusted-after GMT in the world.

Honorable Mention: You knew this was coming. The descendent of the original GMT watch, the GMT Master II remains the most lusted-after GMT in the world. The waitlist to purchase a new stainless steel Pepsi bezel variant is years long, and they routinely sell for more than double the retail price on the secondhand market. But the watch commands such demand for a reason. It’s unspeakably gorgeous, with an iconic design that few watches in the world can match. It’s also robust, dependable, and luxurious, and there’s not a person alive who wouldn’t want one of these on their wrist while traveling the globe.

As legendary as the Rolex GMT is, we couldn’t acquire the watch in time to perform in-studio testing. However, of all the pieces here, the reputation of the GMT Master II should be able to precede it.

Case Size: 40mm Water Resistance: 100m Movement: Automatic “True” GMT

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12 Best GMT Watches for Travel at Every Budget in 2024

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Next to a global Soho House membership and blackout shades, few things are more useful for travel than the best GMT watches. Also known as second or dual time zone, a GMT watch keeps track of the time where you’re at and in a second time zone. It’s the favorite complication among connoisseurs and novices alike, thanks to its practicality.

It’s a great time to get acquainted with GMT watches now that globe-trotting is the norm. From massive to micro, tons of brands are making them, and at low price points, making it easier than ever to keep track of more than one time zone.

Whether you want to stay up to date with mom or the office back home as you travel, scoring a handsome GMT watch on a budget is no longer a pipe dream—but not all are created equal.

A truly stand-out GMT watch needs to have a legible dial and reliable, high-quality movement. While it doesn’t necessarily need to have any other features, it does need to look good (at least to the wearer). Whether it’s got a fourth hand on the dial or a bi-rotational bezel, the best GMT watches need to keep track of a 24-hour time scale with grace and ease.

Key Takeaways 

The Baltic Aquascape is one of the best GMT watches, thanks to its precise movement, nostalgic yet unique look, and easy-to-read dial, all at a great price point.

For an even steeper deal without having to sacrifice traditional looks or functions, turn to the Timex Waterbury or sportier Citizen Promaster Diver with Eco-drive.

• What to look for
• Final Verdict

1. Best Overall GMT Watch: Baltic Aquascaphe GMT

Reasonably priced and beautifully rendered, Baltic’s Aquascaphe GMT pays homage to the near unattainable 60’s Rolex Pepsi GMT without feeling like a rip-off. Considering it’s also a French microbrand , a purchase from Baltic feels special. The Aquascaphe has everything you could want from a traditional GMT with its own unique style and look.

Coming in gray, green, or orange, it features a bi-directional bezel, iconic rubber tropic straps , and self-winding Swiss Soprod movement. Against a black dial finish, white Super-luminova hands are easy to read at a glance, especially in the dark. And there’s a sapphire insert for scratch resistance and a neat little date window at 6 o’clock.

Easy to find and of great value, the Aquascahpe is quickly becoming an icon on its own.

Diameter: 39mm | Case Material: Stainless Steel | Strap: Rubber | Movement: Automatic

2. Best Microbrand GMT Watch: The New York Iota GMT Collection

Perhaps the cleanest face on this list, Iota’s GMT watch exemplifies minimalist beauty. The collection offers four different models representing different cities in different time zones around the world, but I’ve chosen New York because it’s where I live. The brownstones of each borough serve as inspiration, coupled with a tan strap and golden case against a crisp matte white dial with golden lines. Choose from a variety of strap colors.

As a brand, Iota combines minimalist British design cues with Swiss manufacturing and Swiss-made Ronda 515.34H movement. Each watch is crafted from stainless steel with a glossy brushed metal finish for a clean, expensive look. Oh, and don’t forget easy quick-release straps.

Diameter: 40mm | Case Material: Stainless Steel | Strap: Leather | Movement: Automatic

3. Best GMT Dress Watch: Nomos-Glashuette Tangomat GMT 

It’s hard having expensive taste, but even the Tangomat GMT comes in at a decent price point considering all you’re getting. This watch is absolutely beautiful, from clear lines and angular form to the tempered blue steel hands and touch of red against the oversized white face. The beautiful strap is crafted in Horween genuine shell cordovan leather.

But my favorite feature is the window display where airport codes denote the 24 time zones. All it takes is one push of a button to switch your location moments from NYC to RIO before you land. It’s different, but that’s what makes it fun.

Diameter: 31mm | Case Material: Stainless Steel | Strap: Leather | Movement: Automatic

4. Best Budget GMT Watch: Citizen ProMaster Diver

Long gone are the days when you had to spend big on a GMT watch. Citizen proves that quality at a low price point that’s not only attainable but downright attractive. Ideally, Citizen Promaster Diver is a great summer sports watch, thanks to bright colors and 200 meters of water resistance. But regardless of season, it’s a feature-packed timepiece for a staggeringly great price.

Anti-reflective sapphire is common on more expensive watches. But luminous white hands and markers against a clear face make the dial easy to read. The band also happens to be extremely comfortable.

But perhaps its coolest feature is the Eco-drive movement, the first of its kind. This means the watch is powered by light, and not just sunshine, but any light, including artificial. Now that’s a feature worth getting used to.

Diameter: 44mm  | Case Material: Stainless Steel | Strap: Stainless Steel | Movement: Eco-drive

5. Best GMT Watch Under 500: Seiko SSK001 5 GMT 

The Seiko 5 Sports line has put out some fantastic variations since its reintroduction in recent years, but an automatic watch with a fourth hand for GMT ? Talk about balling on a budget. The brand pulls it off beautifully by simply modifying the movements for the world traveler,  who is concerned with function above all else.

True to Seiko form, it’s a well-built watch with excellent details and movement you can count on. The deep blue and black bezel against a shiny steel bracelet is eye-catching. And for under $500, quite frankly, it feels like a steal .

Diameter: 42.5mm | Case Material: Stainless Steel | Strap: Stainless Steel | Movement: Automatic

6. Best GMT Quartz Watch: Timex Waterbury Traditional GMT 

These days, getting your hands on the Timex Q is a struggle. The Waterbury Traditional GMT is a great fill-in with a slightly higher-end look, in my opinion. The green, red, and white hands are particularly attractive. And because it’s easy to dress up or down, it’s great for daily wear.

A colored rotating bezel that tracks an additional time zone, 100 meters of water resistance, and a quick-release strap are all features found on higher-end watches. Oh, how I love traditional looks and functionality at dirt-cheap prices. Seriously, this affordable gmt watch will only set you back a couple hundred bucks.

Another modern iteration of a vintage body, the Waterbury pays homage to the original Timex, the Waterbury Clock Company, founded in 1854.

Diameter: 39mm | Case Material: Stainless Steel | Strap: Leather | Movement: Quartz

7. Best Pilot GMT Watch: Zodiac Super Sea Wolf GMT

A rotating 24-hour bezel is a must-have feature for aviation. The Zodiac Super, a nod to the Zodiac Sea Wolf of the 1960s , is timelessly stunning, thanks to the gold bezel that can tell time in a third time zone and the matching middle strip of gold on the bracelet.

Pilots also need to be able to see well at a quick glance, so the reserved black dial provides the perfect backdrop for those white hands to really pop. Couple that with the deep 200 meters water resistance, and you’ve got one of the best GMT watches for flight .

Diameter: 40mm | Case Material: Stainless Steel | Strap: Stainless Steel | Movement: Automatic

8. Best Vintage GMT Watch: Pre-Owned Rolex GMT-Master 

If you’re going to go vintage, what’s better than the OG? This is the 1994 model, but there’s no mistaking the blue and red bezel, an iconic feature of the GMT Master Rolex launched in 1954 . It holds the title of the first timepiece to track two time zones simultaneously. Perfect for pilots, why not you?

Actually, thanks to the bi-rotational bezel, it’s possible to track up to three time zones at once. A classic look in excellent condition, this model also boasts a chronometer and 100 meters of water resistance.

If purchasing vintage leaves you feeling unsure, just know that Tourneau has very strict certified pre-owned watch quality standards with a 30-point inspection. The retailer itself has been around since 1900.

Diameter: 40mm | Case Material: Stainless Steel | Strap: stainless Steel | Movement: Automatic

9. Best GMT Watch Under 1,000: Bulova Wilton GMT

I love how the Tangomat captures the spirit of travel, but the Bulova Wilton takes an elegant stab at it as well. Handsome and refined, it resides in the premium tier of automatic self-winding movements, with a high-quality independently adjustable GMT hand. This makes it easy to set the hand to another timezone without affecting accuracy. Phew.

It’s not just movement that the Bulova offers up. A beautiful silver tone stainless steel case is quite the backdrop for a blue 4-hand GMT dial, striking Roman numeral markers, and a world map dial for some perspective. Pair it with the anti-reflective dome, and you’ve got one of the best GMT watches money can buy.

Diameter: 43mm | Case Material: Stainless Steel | Strap: Leather | Movement: Automatic

10. Best Automatic GMT Watch: Bulgari Aluminum GMT

I could’ve included any number of automatic GMT watches, but there is something so special and unique about this one. Maybe it’s in the limited-edition name, the Amerigo Vespucci Special, a nod to the spirit of travel. Or maybe it’s the Bugatti-esque appearance, that eye-catching combo of black and yellow that comprises the inner dial second time zone ring.

Either way, like a fine Italian car, Bulgari’s Aluminum is not only beautiful but comfortable, too. You can thank rubber for that. The black rubber strap locks at the center of the case for a flexible, secure fit. There’s also a black rubber bezel with the BVLGARI engraving and an added rubber insert for shock resistance.

Meanwhile, the hands are rhodium plated for extra strength and luster. No matter how you spin it, this is clearly one of the best GMT watches.

Diameter: 40mm | Case Material: Aluminum Titanium | Strap: Rubber | Movement: Automatic

11. Best GMT Dive Watch: Mido Ocean Star GMT

As the name implies, the Mido Ocean Star is one of the best GMT watches for aquatics . Again, here’s another well-priced watch with loads of features. But its most stand-out accomplishment is time-keeping . Imagine that.

Here is a solid yet refined dive watch from an established Swiss brand . Mido is a part of Swatch Group and gets its 80-hour power reserve automatic movement from the premier sister company, ETA. It’s also serving precision with a Nivachron balance spring, a titanium-based alloy that protects against shocks and the effects of time.

As for looks, a rich attractive navy bezel with a deeper navy dial matches the beautifully woven strap , made from a leather front and synthetic back. Perfect for breathability and comfort. For just over the $1,000 price tag, I think it’s a yes.

Diameter: 44mm | Case Material: Stainless Steel | Strap: Leather Front, Synthetic Back | Movement: Automatic

12. Best Value GMT Watch: Monta Atlas

With all the trappings of luxury at an attainable price point, the Monta Atlas is one of the best GMT watches out there. Whether you’re traveling, working, or out exploring, it’s a utilitarian looker that puts in work.

Seriously, this thing is built like a tank. Not only is the bracelet strong, but it’s comfortable, thanks to a highly adjustable clasp and two half-links to create your perfect fit. A 56-hour power reserve makes it ideal for daily wear and refined Sellita SW330 automatic movements means it runs like a charm.

To me, function must meet form to be considered the best. And boy, does the Atlas hold up. Red entails and rhodium-plated diamond-cut sword-style hands with Super-LumiNova pop against the deep charcoal dial. Polished bevels and a brushed sunburst finish on the bezel bring high shine. If you’re going to add one GMT watch to your wardrobe , this should be it.

Diameter: 38.5mm | Case Material: Stainless Steel | Strap: Stainless Steel | Movement: Automatic

What To Look For In A GMT Watch

A watch is no good if you can’t even read it. A cluttered dial isn’t ideal. The best GMT watches have either a dark dial and light-colored hands or a clean, light dial and hands that pop.

Generally, a fourth hand indicates the GMT time zone denoted on the bezel, while a rotating bezel allows for keeping track of an additional time zone. The Tangomat even created an entirely new style of time zone tracking with an airport code window.

If you’re flush with cash, by all means, feel free to splurge on the best GMT watches. However, there are some truly amazing watches in the $1,000-$3,000 price range and even lower, so it’s really not necessary to spend a ton unless you want to.

Final Verdict 

Without a doubt, the Baltic Aquascaphe is a top-tier choice. From its attractive price point, iconic vintage style, and bevy of features, including Super-LumiNova hands and Swiss movement, it’s one of the best GMT watches to put on your wrist.

“Greenwich Mean Time,” meaning the solar time at the Royal Observatory in London. It’s how the rest of the world’s time zones are compared. However, GMT watches can typically be set to any other additional timezone of your choosing.

GMT is always set to 0 on a watch and follows a 24-hour clock. It’s geared to turn half as quickly as 12-hour hands. To set your time zone, simply turn the hand according to the corresponding number of your time zone (Germany is +1, for example).

As global travel increases, it’s common to be in multiple time zones throughout the week. Whether you’re keeping time as you travel from home or work or want to keep track of a loved one living abroad, the best GMT watches are essential.

Why not? Depending on your needs, you could use it infrequently or daily. Considering the affordable price points on some fine watches, there’s no reason a GMT watch can’t be a part of your typical repertoire.

Rachel Cascella is an in-house writer at Fashion Beans with 14 years of experience in the fashion industry, balancing her knowledge of cutting-edge trends with a penchant for truly timeless style.

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17 best GMT watches for all budgets

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Newsflash: GMT watches were not created solely in honour of the Greenwich Observatory. Shocking, I know. A lot of watches have fancy, mythical names that get bandied around a lot despite not appearing to make much sense. Case in point who has ever seen a Nautilus in the pressurised hull of a submarine?

Named after one iconic Rolex , GMTs do have two very useful functions – the GMT hand can either indicate the time in another city or country so you can effectively be on two time zones on one watch, or you can endure its on local time so you know if it's AM or PM where you are.

Granted Rolex has a sixty-year-old head start on most when it comes to GMT watches, but smaller brands have caught up to the travel icon, and are now offering big value. Here are our faves, kicking off with the OG.

Rolex GMT-Master

Rolex GMT-Master – the watch that named the genre – was the first watch to have a separately adjustable hand to accompany you on your travels. Set within a tough case echoing the deep-diving Submariner , it evokes world travel. Its aura is so strong that the entire sub-category of easy-setting travel watches is known by its nome de plume. While hundreds of watches are inspired by the duo-coloured bezel and arrow pointer, the Batman ref 116710BLNR ( Ben Affleck has one) is still the daddy. Originally commissioned for God-tier logoed airline Pan-Am and its pilots, it's done pretty well considering its nothing more than a trusty tool watch – one popular with the likes of Jack Harlow , Raheem Stirling and Tom Cruise, mind.  £9,150. At   rolex.com

Grand Seiko SBGJ273

Dial art with a distinctly Japanese twist makes this Grand Seiko stand out a mile – potentially a mile and half actually. The scalpel-sharp sword dauphine hands reflect the tiniest twinkle of the evening sun, while the deep red lacquer dial aint messing around – if red isn’t for you, neither is this. A 39.5mm case in hand-polished steel only highlights this rather glamorous take on a GMT from Japan’s best craftsmen. £6,600 . At grand-seiko.com

Farer Maze GMT

Few do fresh AF British watchmaking like Farer. Case in point, we are head over heals with the crisp graphic dial of the Maze II. As if sketched on an engineer’s jotting pad to prove a point (its legibility is legit), the clean and function-packed dial says a lot about Farer’s singular focus on enjoying a wealth of colours and curated style. With its massive orange pointer and unmistakable day-night 24-hour bezel, your LA jetlag will be easily tracked – at 2am when you’re lying wide awake. £1,275. At farer.com

Christopher Ward Sealander GMT       

With a British twist to travel-time wrist pop, the Sealander GMT from Christopher Ward is a feast of colour – how many Dragonfly blue dials and satsuma-pink GMT hands do you see out there? The 24-hour steel bezel allows the watch’s sharp details on the fresh sunburst dial to pop – not least the date-window at 6 o’clock, which is nigh-on perfectly coloured matched. A debatable comparison but there's a bit of Rolex Milgauss in this one for us. £1,060. At christopherward.com

Tudor Black Bay GMT

Once again, we have zero qualms touting Tudor as the Coronet family winner when conversation turns to this silky opaline dial Black Bay GMT. Its Pepsi bezel is giving off big-dog vibes, and mechanically it’ll out-travel the best of other GMTs, not least because it’s available to buy and slightly less obvious than Post Malone’s glittering sapphire-set Rolex travel jewel. The fact that there’s the option of rocking one with a soft fabric NATO with a natty red stripe gives it yet more X-factor appeal. £3,500 . At goldsmiths.co.uk

Longines Master Collection GMT

Longines gifted us the aviation-inspired Spirit series and deep-diving Hydroconquest but what about when we’ve off on our travels? The assurance of a second time zone at a glance on a Rollie is one of life’s subtle luxuries, but Longines has a different take on the sports watch feature. This dressy, limited yellow gold Master Collection GMT will up your flying game, whether you’re wearing a blazer or velvet tracksuit. $14,200. At longines.com

Seiko Prospex SPB385 Glacier Blue Limited Edition

Seiko’s diver watch brawn plus its Japanese sorcery equals a 42mm watch that feel as comfortable as a 39mm piece of slim retro skin diver. Offering a Swiss-beating 72 hours of power reserve, the case is as broad-shouldered and muscular as we like our Seiko tool watches, but the arctic ice of the deeply striated dial is mesmerising. £1,600. At   seikoboutique.co.uk

Tudor Black Bay Pro

Once again, the Tudor cousin is Rolex-baiting, with huge success in the form of the Black Bay Pro from last year. The softly brushed pure steel emanates a tough-guy vibe, nothing pops like yellow against matte black, and the 39mm case is more comfortable than its Batman cousin while not attracting unwanted attention to that glitzy bezel. We're calling the ‘60s rivet-look steel bracelet retro-tastic, and we’re fine with that. £3,460. At   goldsmiths.co.uk

Bell & Ross BR05 GMT

The cheeky French design team behind Bell & Ross knows how to titillate our senses with the right clues. On a smoothly integrated bracelet , the squircle shape of the slim 41mm BR05 GMT looks razor sharp with an opaline white dial. Just like the Rolex Explorer II , a red arrow-tipped hand makes your home time nice and legible (and avoids any 5am wake-up phone calls to your mate whenever that might happen).  £5,000. At   bellross.com & jurawatches.co.uk

Louis Vuitton Tambour Dual Time

Few brands straddle the categories of fashion and wristwear like Louis Vuitton . The pebble-round Tambour line wears as sublimely as you’d expect with a slim 39.5mm case. In contrast to a casual fit like Bradley Cooper's, this one wears larger than life thanks to an icy silver dial and intrinsic details. The LV flower motif marks the second time zone to ensure all-out travel inspo. Vintage LV leather trunk, optional. £3,235. At   louisvuitton.com

Baltic Aquascaphe GMT

Still known as the number one French microbrand, Etienne & co has built a success on the perfectly-timed launch of vintage-cool watches like the goldilocks-sized Aquascaphe. You can emulate the OG batman, or go for our choice of mandarin fresh orange and blue with period-perfect charm and a large dollop of je ne sais quoi . The tough nugget combo of a 39mm case with a hardy 100m depth rating makes it a great value proposition.  €920. At   baltic-watches.com

Raymond Weil Tango

With a fresh Pepsi look to its 24-hour bezel, Swiss brand Raymond Weil has the right jet-setting clues in its name. So book those tickets and set your hands back three hours, we’re going to party in Argentina. Dancing aside, it’s a solid, 300m depth rated GMT diver at 42mm, and will frankly work with everything on that smooth steel three-link bracelet.  £1,195 . At  goldsmiths.co.uk

Unimatic Modello Quattro Henry Singer Edition

Once again limited, damn you Unimatic, its first GMT version of the U4 is an achingly cool with that monochrome calm, Italian sartorial timepiece. Modern AF, while still exhibiting the retro touches of split-design sword hands and diver markings, this rubber-strapped silky nugget of titanium is simply inspiring. And nothing but Unimatic in its language.  $1,995. At   unimaticwatches.com

Farer Lander IV

Powered by a custom version of the Sellita SW330-2 movement, Farer puts its usual British twist on the art of travel. A short-lugged 39.5mm brushed case spells comfort, and not much will beat the sea green multi-stepped dial for fresh pops of colour. The seconds hand is a vivid orange with a quirky Farer logo, while the classic lume-filled arrow 24-hour pointer is a fiery red. It shouldn’t work, but of course it does, and with its brass-logoed onion crown is a great travel buddy.  £1,225. At   farer.com

Christopher Ward C60 Anthropocene

The C60 Anthropocene might have had us googling its name, but with a small contribution going to preserve Wildlife, this is a modern GMT with a fresh twist. A clean-cut 42mm case holds a ceramic bezel with a small touch of orange that sets the tone of this modern piece. We feel reinvigorated by the sharp contrast of black, polar white sapphire dial and satsuma, and it’s liberatingly homage-less. A dead serious 600m depth rating makes it a massive bang for your buck.  £1,100. At   christopherward.com

Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

There are plenty of big-value choices out there too – the Batman hasn’t got the market entirely cornered when it comes to grail-status travel GMT watches. Patek Philippe has a lesser-known fave of ours with a great 37.5mm case size. It boasts one of the easiest ways to set and read the time difference between your spectacular destination and Blighty. With superimposed lumed numerals and function-first giant time-zone pushers, this Patek has a retro-tool watch flex, and we love it. POA. At   patek.com

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time

Once the integrated-bracelet stepchild, people get the charm of the Overseas range in 2023, so even here you might have to wait for that dealer phone call after a year or so. But with the eloquent slim style of the deep blue Vacheron Constantin , it’s so worth it. Undisturbed by a busy bezel, the sunburst blue dial has a simple AM/PM indicator so you’ll remember not to wake up your entire household with that guilty-travel-conscience call to your partner.  £26,200. At   vacheron-constantin.com

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20 Affordable GMT Watches for Budget-Conscious Travelers

Of all the different types of complicated timepieces, watches with a GMT or second-time-zone function are among the most useful in everyday life, especially for those of us who travel frequently, do long-distance business in other parts of the world, or some combination of both. Until relatively recently, if you wanted such a watch with a traditional mechanical movement (as opposed to a digital or quartz option), you could expect to pay a fairly hefty price for it. Fortunately, a growing number of watch brands — large and small, well-established as well as plucky newcomers — have started to make GMT watches that are attainable for newer, less affluent aficionados while also being robustly built and thoughtfully designed. In this article, we spotlight 20 of these affordable GMT watches, in ascending order of MSRP, all of which fall under the $2,000 threshold. (If you’re interested in a broader look at the GMT watch category, and might be convinced to spend a bit, or a lot, more, check out our original list of the best GMT watches. )

Under $1,000:

Timex q timex gmt.

Price: $229, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 12.5mm, Lug Width: 18mm, Crystal: Acrylic, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Quartz Analog

Always known for its value proposition, mass-market Timex has also gotten onto the radar of vintage-watch fans in recent years by reproducing some of its cult-favorite historical models, seeking out the sweet spot between historical flair, modest dimensions, and great pricing. Among the success stories is the colorful and sporty Q Timex, a modern reissue of a popular model from the 1970s, which also happens to be one of Timex’s first models with a quartz caliber. Among the elements that echo the original models are the bicolor GMT bezel, diver-style geometrical indexes on the dial, the integrated SST bracelet and even the battery case cover in the back, which enables the wearer to change his own battery with the simple turn of a coin edge.

Nodus Sector GMT

Price: $475, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 12.25mm, Lug to Lug: 47mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Automatic Seiko TMI NH34

California-based microbrand Nodus takes its name from the Latin word signifying the intersection of pathways, and symbolizes its mission of merging the two worlds of vintage and modern design.The Sector GMT delivers on that promise with its modestly sized, brushed 38mm case and sector-style dial design that draws inspiration from military watches issued during the 1920s through the 1940s. The watch diverges from many other GMTs with its use of an inner 24-hour scale, within the main ring of radial Arabic hour numerals, to designate the second time zone rather than the more common 24-hour bezel. The outsourced Seiko movement inside the case has been heavily regulated by Nodus’ Irvine, California workshop and offers a 41-hour power reserve. 

Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK001

Price: $475, Case Size: 42.5mm, Thickness: 13.4mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Hardlex, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Automatic Seiko 4R34

Seiko introduced the first GMT complication to its entry-level, automatic Seiko 5 sports line in 2022, equipping the watches with the automatic Caliber 4R34. Available in three colorways for the dial and bezel — blue, orange, and the black version featured here — the watches have a central GMT hand in a contrasting color, used in coordination with the bicolor day/night bezels (here in black and gray), with rings made of Hardlex glass like the crystal, to indicate a second time zone. The GMT hand is coated in Seiko’s proprietary LumiBrite for nighttime legibility. Based on the design of the much-beloved SKX series of Seiko sports watches, the model has a five-link bracelet with polished middle rows.

Lorier Hydra SII GMT

Price: $599, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 12.2mm, Lug to Lug: 46mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Hesalite, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Automatic Miyota 9075

Founded by the husband-wife team of Lorenzo and Lauren Ortega and based in New York City, Lorier is one of a handful of American microbrands (you’ll find others on this list) that have availed themselves of the revolutionary Japanese Miyota 9075 movement to power an automatic GMT watch at an eye-raising low price. The Hydra GMT is a 41mm steel watch with deep-diving capabilities as well as GMT functionality: it’s water-resistant to 200 meters and features both a unidirectional ratcheting dive-scale bezel and a 24-hour ring outside the hour track for indicating a second time zone. The Hydra is even highly legible in the dark, with blue-glowing Super-LumiNova used for the hands and indexes and green lume used for the 24-hour scale.

Traska Venturer

Price: $695, Case Size: 38.5mm, Thickness: 10mm, Lug to Lug: 46mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 150 meters, Movement: Automatic Miyota 9075

Jon Mack founded Florida-based microbrand Traska after accidentally ruining one of his beloved vintage watches while wearing it in the water. The company is devoted to making watches that combine an authentic retro design language with a modern tool-watch build. The first Traska watch, the Freediver, paved the way for the brand’s first travel-focused watch, the Venturer, outfitted with the aforementioned Miyota GMT caliber. The Venturer has a field-watch-inspired dial and a vintage-appropriate 38.5mm steel case whose thin bezel frames a wide dial bordered by a 24-hour scale, A red-tipped central GMT hand points to the additional time zone while a second crown at 10 o’clock operates the rotation of the 24-hour ring. The case and bracelet finishing, with polished and chamfered surfaces, is impressive for the price point.

Vaer G5 Meridian Navy/Red

Price: $799, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 13.2mm, Lug to Lug: 48mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Automatic Miyota 9075

Vaer founders Ryan Torres and Reagan Cook pooled their collective life savings to start their own watch brand because “we couldn’t afford the watches we liked and didn’t like the ones we could afford.” Based in Venice, California, Vaer manufacturers all its watches in the U.S.A. and offers in them a variety of outsourced movements, including quartz, solar quartz, and the automatic inside the G5 Meridian Navy/Red, a watch that evokes the classically colorful charm of Rolex’s “Pepsi” GMT-Master at an eminently more attainable price. The 39mm case has a ceramic bicolor bezel; both the bezel and the dial are generously lumed, and the central GMT hand in bright red, which indicates a second time zone on the 24-hour scale, creates a contrast with the black dial.

Bulova Wilton GMT

Price: $875, Case Size: 43mm, Thickness: 12.7mm, Lug to Lug: 49.5mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Automatic Miyota 9075

Over its long history, Bulova has become well-known for offering mechanical complications at very accessible prices, and the Classic Wilton GMT, which joined the collection in 2022, is no exception. Priced under a grand, the Wilton GMT is the rare example of a “true” GMT — i.e., one with an independently adjustable local hour hand — that just about any enthusiast can afford. The watch has a brushed steel case at 43mm; a dial in either white or blue, with applied Roman numerals matching the case tone, a date window at 3 o’clock, and a world-map textured pattern on its surface that adds to its value proposition. The central arrow-pointed GMT hand indicates a second time zone on the bicolor 24-hour scale on the dial’s flange. The automatic Japanese-made Miyota movement inside stores a 42-hour power reserve.

Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80 GMT

Price: $875, Case size: 42mm, Thickness: 12.5mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Automatic Powermatic 80.661

True to its form, the Tissot brand offers one of the watch world’s most value-oriented mechanical GMTs on the market in its elegantly detailed Chemin des Tourelles family. The Powermatic 80 GMT comes in a 42mm steel case (including a gold-plated version) with a thin, polished bezel framing a wide dial bordered on its outer edge by a 24-hour numbered scale. The dial’s ring of applied hour indexes and Roman hour numerals is accented by a hobnail pattern, and the thin sword hands for the hour and minute are joined by both a sweep seconds hand and an arrow-pointed GMT hand that reveals a second time zone on the outermost 24-hour ring. This watch’s version of the Powermatic 80 caliber is derived from the ETA C07.111, enhanced with the extended power reserve and antimagnetic escapement.

Maen Hudson 38 GMT

Price: $906, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 10.5mm, Lug to Lug: 46mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Automatic Soprod C-125

Maen was founded in Stockholm, Sweden in 2018 after a successful Kickstarter campaign, starting off with a dive watch, the Hudson Automatic, and expanding the scope to the Skymaster 38, a vintage-style pilot chronograph, and more recently the Hudson 38 GMT, which adapts the flagship Hudson diver’s design to a dual-time-zone utility. The sandblasted dial is bordered by a flange bearing a 24-hour scale, which is itself framed by a rotating bezel with its own 24-hour scale in place of the 60-minute dive scale; with the aid of the red arrow-tipped GMT hand, the wearer can read three time zones simultaneously. Like all Maen watches, the Hudson 38 GMT is Swiss-made, with its modest 38mm steel case housing a self-winding Soprod movement and attached to a supple, meticulously finished steel bracelet.

Certina DS Action GMT

Price: $995, Case Size: 43.1mm, Thickness: 12.6mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Automatic Powermatic 80.661  

Certina is a watch brand much better known outside the U.S. than within its borders, but that is rapidly changing as the company, which is owned by the Swatch Group, has expanded its distribution and thus the profile of its Swiss-made, value-oriented line of timepieces — particularly the divers’ watches that have put it on the radar of enthusiasts over the years. The DS Action line is Certina’s entry-level range of divers, the “DS” denoting the case’s “Double Security” case structure, in which the watch’s movement is protected within an extra shock-absorbing rubber ring inside the main case and the watertight crown features a proprietary sealant system. The DS Action GMT models, equipped with Powermatic 80 automatic calibers, swap out the traditional 60-minute diver’s bezel for a 24-hour GMT scale and a central hand.

Baltic Aquascaphe GMT

Price: 920 Euros, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 12mm, Lug to Lug: 47mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Automatic Soprod C125

Founded in France in 2017, Baltic has swiftly staked out its spot on the independent microbrand scene with its vintage-influenced collection, particularly the Aquascaphe, a retro divers’ watch heavily influenced by midcentury classics like Blancpain’s Bathyscaphe models. For the GMT version of the Aquascaphe, Baltic replaced the base model’s unidirectional bezel with 60-minute dive scale with a more travel-friendly, bidirectional (and bicolor) 24-hour bezel, which can be used in conjunction with a central arrow-tipped hand to read the time in a second time zone. The dive-watch DNA of the Aquascaphe series is clearly present, with the dial sporting geometric hour markers, plentiful lume on the markers and hands, and a 100-meter water resistance (half of the diving model’s 200-meter rating, but still substantial). Adding to the value proposition is Baltic’s use of a self-winding Soprod movement inside the brushed steel case.

Under $2,000:

Tissot seastar 1000 powermatic 80 gmt u.s. limited edition.

Price: $1,275, Case Size: 46mm Case Height: 15.4mm, Lug to Lug: 51.2mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300 meters, Movement: Automatic Powermatic 80.661

Tissot's ruggedly attractive Seastar family of dive watches debuted in the 1960s and underwent a crowd-pleasing revamp in recent years, which included the enduringly popular models being fitted with ETA-based Powermatic 80 movements, named for their substantial 80-hour power reserve. Among the many iterations of the Seastar 1000 is this GMT-equipped model exclusive to the U.S. market, featuring an unusual green-and black-colorway and accompanying bright red central hand for its 24-hour GMT scale. Like all Seastars, it is a robustly built professional-grade dive watch, with a hefty, 46mm steel case rated to a punishing 300 meters (or 1,000 feet, hence the model’s name) of water resistance. The watch comes on a steel link bracelet, with strap options extra.

Mido Ocean Star GMT

Price: $1,310, Case Size: 44mm Case Height: 13.28mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Automatic Mido 80 (ETA C07.661 base)

Popular in Latin America but only vaguely familiar to many watch aficionados in the U.S., Mido has been making watches since 1918 and its nautically inspired Ocean Star line has been around since the 1940s, even before the era of the modern diver’s watch. The Ocean Star GMT, launched in 2020, is the family’s first dual-time-zone watch, with a sturdy steel case and ceramic divers’ bezel. The 24-hour scale that you might expect to find on the bezel is instead printed on the dial’s flange. A long, arrow-tipped hand points to the scale, enabling the wearer to read the time in additional time zones while the two main hands display the local time. The Powermatic 80 caliber inside the 44mm steel case has been equipped with an added module for the GMT functions.

Seiko Presage Sharp Edged GMT

Seiko introduced the Sharp Edged family, whose members were distinguished by their intriguing textured dials, into its dressy, all-automatic Presage collection in 2020, adding GMT models to the original group of time-and-date watches a year later. At just over 42mm in diameter, the Presage Sharp Edged GMT sits comfortably on the wrist thanks to sloping lugs; the case’s finish combines polishing and brushing at a level rarely found at this price point. The GMT bezel that frames the dial is made of steel and coated with Seiko’s fade-resistant DiaShield coating. The dial itself is, of course, the star of the show, with its geometric “Asanoha” textured pattern, an ancient Japanese design motif inspired by hemp leaves. The dial colors also take inspiration from Japan’s natural world, like the “Aitetsu” model pictured, whose tone evokes indigo-colored iron ore.

Sinn 105 St Sa UTC

Price: $1,400, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 11.9mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.4mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 200m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Sellita SW330-1

German watchmaker Sinn is known for tough, purpose-built timepieces and developing its own in-house technologies and processes to produce them. The recently released, entry-level 105 series, which offers a clean, pared-down offshoot of the brand’s pilot-focused 104 series, incorporates several, including the proprietary Tegiment hard coating on the rotating 24-hour bezel. The bead-blasted steel case resists 200 meters of water pressure. The matte black dial has the signature pill-shaped hands and hour markers as well as a bright orange UTC hand to indicate a second time zone. The orange color is also used for the contrast stitching on the tough leather strap, which can be swapped out for an even tougher steel bracelet.

Christopher Ward C65 Aquitaine GMT

Price: $1,425, Case Size: 41mm Case Height: 12.7mm, Lug to Lug: 46.68mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Automatic Sellita SW330-2

U.K.-based Christopher Ward added a GMT to its Aquitaine dive watch collection, inspired by the original Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, in 2022. The 41mm steel case hosts a 24-hour GMT bezel, made of sapphire, that frames a clean, readable dial with sharp sword hands for the local hour and minute, a seconds hand with the telltale trident-shaped counterweight, a subtle 6 o’clock date window, and the signature element, a fourth center-mounted hand with a colorful triangle tip that indicates a second time zone. The C65 GMT still has the robustness of a dive watch — its case is water-resistant to 200 meters — and is powered by an automatic Swiss-made caliber, the Sellita SW 330-2, which beats at 28,800 vph behind an exhibition caseback.

Citizen Series 8 GMT

Price: $1,695, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 13.5mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Automatic Citizen Caliber 9054

Citizen introduced the Series 8 collection in 2021, a series of watches equipped with in-house, mechanical automatic movements and targeting a more luxury-oriented segment of the market than many of the Japanese brand's Eco-Drive watches. The “8” represents the symbol for Infinity, hinting at the collection’s “infinite” possibilities. In 2023, the family welcomed its first model equipped with a GMT function. In addition to the classical bicolor 24-hour bezel and arrow-tipped GMT hand, the dial features a distinctive checkered pattern that takes its inspiration from the Tokyo skyline at night, with its grid of windows. The two-part steel case has an array of mirror-polished and brushed finishes and includes a transparent sapphire caseback to proudly display the movement, the self-winding Caliber 9054, boasting a power reserve of 50 hours and a daily accuracy of -10 to +20 seconds.

  Zodiac Super Sea Wolf GMT World Time Automatic

Price: $1,795, Case Size: 40mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Automatic Soprod C-125

Zodiac’s Super Sea Wolf GMT World Time Automatic uses the same 200-meter water-resistant steel case, sturdy build, and vintage-influenced aesthetics of its siblings in the Super Sea Wolf collection, all tracing their lineage back to Zodiac’s historical dive watch from 1953. For this model, Zodiac has adapted the traditional diver’s bezel and the dial for world-time functionality. The bezel, in either rich red or deep black, is printed with the names of 24 world cities, enabling the wearer to use the GMT hand, in coordination with the 24-hour chapter ring surrounding the main dial, to track the time in any other time zone in the world. Zodiac first launched this simpler style of world-timer — different from a "true" world-time watch, in which the bezel rotates— in 1970. The watch is mounted on a sturdy three-link steel bracelet and contains an automatic Soprod movement.

Glycine Airman

Price: $1,895, Case Size: 44mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Automatic Caliber GL293 (ETA 2893/Sellita SW330 base)

Glycine was founded in 1914 in Switzerland but its most famous watch didn’t make its debut until 1953: the aviation-styled Airman, which was worn by U.S. military pilots during the Vietnam War and featured the very first rotating 24-hour GMT bezel to track two time zones. (Rolex’s legendary GMT-Master, which debuted one year later, introduced the more common bicolor version of this innovative design.) The Airman (vintage model above, via Analog Shift ) is still Glycine’s flagship collection and still offers quite the value proposition for a Swiss-made watch with an automatic GMT function. The dial is extra-legible, with wide luminous hands, large geometric indexes, an understated 3 o’clock date window, and 24-hour ring on the flange. The steel bezel of the 44mm case is engraved with the emblematic 24-hour scale of the Airman series, allowing for a view of multiple time zones. The Swiss-made automatic movement is visible behind a sapphire exhibition back.

Fomex Reef GMT Automatic Chronometer

Price: $1,900 - $2,310, Case Size: 42mm Case Height: 11.4mm, Lug to Lug: 47mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300 meters, Movement: Automatic Sellita 330-2 (COSC certified)

Founded in 1999 and based in Biel, Switzerland, independent brand Formex has drawn admiration for making durable and stylish watches at value-oriented prices. In 2022, Formex introduced the Reef GMT, which adds a dual-time function to the brand’s popular Reef dive watch by means of a central GMT hand and a 24-hour scale on the interchangeable bezel rather than the traditional 60-minute dive scale. The chronometer-certified movement inside the Reef GMT watches is the automatic Sellita SW330-2, with a 50-plus-hour power reserve and GMT capability. Formex’s attention to functional detail is evident throughout the model, specifically on the bezel, redesigned from the 120-click tooth profile of the divers’ version to accommodate the 48 clicks for a precise GMT setting. 

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Would love for you to take a look at the Nezumi Aviera. Has the miyota movement and fun design for under $600.

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Magazine Feature note: This story was originally published as part of Volume 3 of HODINKEE Magazine in the Fall of 2018. With travel on many of our minds, we felt like revisiting James Stacey's thoroughly thought out and beautifully shot story on the best watches for travel. Whether you're hopping on a plane halfway around the world to escape the cold, driving to the mountains for the weekend, or staying put and channeling a spirit of adventure, check out the watches below.

Jolting awake as my plane’s wheels skip across the tarmac of a runway far from home, I am unable to remember my destination after a fitful night’s rest somewhere over the dark void of the Atlantic Ocean. The pilot’s voice crackles on the PA, welcoming me to Munich. The local time is 10:40 AM, some nine hours ahead of home, and it’s time to get to work. Without removing my watch from my wrist, in the dim light of the taxiing jet, I unscrew the crown and quickly jump the hour hand nine clicks forward. I’m headed to Kitzbuhel, and the Alps wait for no man.

Travel is the ultimate freedom. The ability to freely roam the earth and experience its many people, places, and scenery is a luxury defined by mobility and informed by curiosity and wanderlust. With some far-flung locale in mind, we accrue vacation time, book flights, read guidebooks, and fall asleep to old episodes of No Reservations .

I adore travel, and part of the appeal is in the thoughtfulness that goes into the things you carry with you to other parts of the world. The need to be minimal and purposeful in packing to a limit lends a special kind of clarity. What you choose to bring should be tuned to the frequency of your destination, not only to avoid additional baggage fees but to allow you the maximum comfort en route and to ensure you’re ready to make the most of your new locale.

While phones and international data plans have made travel and foreign experiences much less opaque, the ultimate travel tool, and a pillar in my travel kit, will always be a great travel watch. You can lose your bags, forget your sunscreen, and your phone can be long dead, but the right watch will ensure that you’re on time for the adventure and that you don’t lose track of home while seeing the rest of the world.

In an era where travel has never been more precious, nor the world’s edges more accessible, it’s not surprising that GMT watches are having something of a moment. From modern interpretations of classic pilot’s watches to luxury-inspired dual-time designs and totems to old-world exploration, these watches work without the need for a data connection. Like any seasoned traveler, the perfect travel watch jumps effortlessly from one locale to another, picking up the rhythm of the new space and presenting nothing that might get in the way of enjoying the journey.

With both new releases and classic icons of the genre seeing a huge uptick in popularity, GMT and travel-specific watches have become the hot complication in any manufacturer’s lineup. While chronographs and dive watches have enjoyed long-standing popularity, consider the effect Instagram, Facebook, and YouTube have had on keeping exotic locales and amazing travel experiences directly within our eye line. From First Class to Paris or the jumpseat in a safari-ready Defender, travel watches speak directly to that adventurous wanderlust when we double-tap another photo of a place we hope one day to see for ourselves.

During a recent trip to Los Angeles, I spent a week with some of the best travel watches on the market today, and from classic icons to fresh faces, each reflects the philosophy of travel in its own way.

At 41mm in steel with a sporty, matte, burgundy and blue bezel, Tudor’s excellent Black Bay GMT combines the platform of their well-loved dive watch with the pilot-inspired functionality established by their sibling brand, Rolex. With a true local jumping hour GMT movement, the Black Bay GMT mimics the feature set of the classic Rolex GMT-Master II but does so with a more casual and laid-back appeal. This functionality allows you to land in a new time zone and quickly jump the hour hand of the watch to the new time without affecting the timekeeping or adjusting the 24-hour hand that shows the time back at home. For a newcomer to the GMT space, Tudor created a ringer and I can only imagine how cool these will look with 20 years of travel burned, dinged, and etched into the case and bezel.

In contrast to Tudor’s specifically sporty design, Vacheron Constantin’s lovely Overseas Dual Time omits a traditional 24-hour display for the subtle simplicity of a second hour hand and a simple AM/PM indicator. Perhaps more for docking a sailboat in Manhattan Beach than running a cafe racer through Hell, California, the 41mm Overseas Dual Time’s case is steel and it feels amazing on the quick-change rubber strap, offering a certain ’70s appeal that is a perfect complement to any luxurious travel arrangement.

Carrying the clarity and precision exemplified by much of Japanese culture, the Grand Seiko SBGJ213G is a technical marvel wrapped in a travel-ready 40mm titanium case with beautiful hand-finished details. Inside, this Grand Seiko GMT offers a high-beat movement that hums along at 36,000 vibrations per hour, leading to remarkable accuracy. With razor-sharp finishing on the dial and a lovely yellow 24-hour hand, the SBGJ213G is a perfect piece of Japanese engineering, and from Tokyo to the glittering waters of the Venice Canals, it manages to shine anywhere in the world.

In contrast to the stoic and straightforward nature of the Grand Seiko, Montblanc’s 1858 Geosphere is a tribute to the iconography of travel, a nod to exploration, maps, and the art of representing the globe against the fixed nature of time. At 42mm wide with a ceramic compass bezel, the 1858 Geosphere is characterized by a pair of rotating hemispheres that illustrate the layout of time zones across our world. With a central reference and a sub-dial showing AM/PM, while the 1858 Geospheres may be less practical than a traditional GMT, it manages to capture the romance of exploration in a fanciful and unique design.

Offering a slightly smaller expression of Patek Philippe’s roguish Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524G, the 37.5mm 7234R may be marketed as something of a ladies model, but to my eyes, it offers the same handsome design and travel-ready layout in a smaller case that is nicely complemented by the warm rose gold tones. While these pilot-inspired Travel Time models are indeed a departure from Patek’s usual sport watch methodology, the brand has very strong roots in travel-specific watches and even had a hand in one of the earliest example of a worldtime. Furthermore, the 7234R feels fantastic on wrist and its trick locking crowns make any new time zone a tactile treat. Dressed down with a travel-proven denim work shirt to match the somewhat military-derived aesthetic, this rose gold pilot’s watch was an easy fit for LA’s casual outlook on excess and luxury.

Finally, it’s the brand new Rolex GMT-Master II in Oystersteel on a matching Jubilee bracelet. One of the hottest sports watches on the market, the GMT-Master II is the iconic post-war travel watch. With a design that has endured more than 60 years of evolution, the GMT-Master II captures the high-low reality of travel. While decidedly luxurious and beautifully made, and with a warm ceramic bezel in red and blue atop its 40mm steel case, the GMT-Master II is also hard-wearing and undeniably adventure-ready. It is the enduring high bar in the travel-watch game, and this year’s addition of a steel version with a Pepsi bezel and the glittering Jubilee bracelet undoubtedly caused a spike in the rising popularity of GMT watches. 

On the wrist, this true-to-its-roots GMT-Master II feels special, adventurous, and the bezel color speaks so specifically to the legacy of this design and the aesthetic of those who wore one. Despite the evolution of several generations, this new steel GMT-Master II captures the Avante-Garde spirit of the jet-set age; it makes me want to dress up for my next flight or write Chuck Yeager a letter after reading about his exploits on the back of a cereal box. The new GMT-Master II on the Jubilee isn’t only THE GMT watch, it’s arguably THE sports watch on the market today.

A good travel watch is a thoughtful blend of function, design, charm, and hard-wearing construction. And from Tokyo to Los Cabos, Johannesburg to Los Angeles, the result should never look out of place, never get in the way, and only grow in appeal with the progressive development of travel-derived patina. Sun-faded, scratched up, and always on-wrist, a great travel watch captures the imagination as both a tool of enduring practicality and as an object in tribute of personal freedom.

Photography by Walker Tovin and James Stacey. 

For more information about Grand Seiko , Montblanc , Patek Philippe , Rolex , Tudor , and Vacheron Constantin , visit their websites. The HODINKEE Shop is an authorized retailer of Grand Seiko , Montblanc , and Vacheron Constantin ; and be sure to check out our selection of pre-owned and vintage Patek Philippe , Rolex , and Tudor watches, and more.

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What Are the Best GMT Watches?

Alongside a date and chronograph, a GMT function is arguably the most useful and popular complication that luxury watch models can have. The ability to keep track of time in multiple locations simultaneously has a genuine real-world application, in a way that a moonphase indicator or minute repeater (for example) does not, despite the latter two’s inflated price tags and greater desirability among collectors.

GMT watches have existed since the 1950s when the huge rise in transcontinental air travel brought about the novel experience of jetlag. Research by American airline company Pan Am suggested a watch that could display the time in both the wearer’s current city and that of the eventual destination went some way in helping stave off the worst effects of the phenomenon. As a result, they teamed up with Rolex to create a timepiece that could do just that for their pilots and crew, with the eventual outcome being the legendary Rolex GMT-Master.

Since then, this genre of wristwatches has experienced exponential growth, with just about every luxury watch manufacturer offering their own versions – either following Rolex’s general blueprint or otherwise giving us their personal take on the challenge. That means the industry is pretty well stocked with GMT watches, and choosing between them can sometimes be a bit of a challenge. Below, we have selected 10 of our favorite GMT watches, both modern and vintage, from a variety of brands to give you as diverse a spread as possible. You will find plenty of variety in terms of aesthetics, functionality, and price, but all get our seal of approval, so read on to learn more.

What is a GMT Watch?

About GMT Watches

Before we go any further, let’s just nail down what exactly is a GMT watch. The term is often used interchangeably with ‘dual time zone watch’ but the two are not exactly the same.

A dual time zone watch shows two different times, at the same time. The second is usually displayed on a separate sub-dial, marked with a 12-hour scale. Because of that, there is often also a night/day indicator included somewhere to allow wearers to keep abreast of whether their secondary time zone is in the AM or PM. When traveling, the watch is set to read the local time on the main dial, with the sub-dial showing the ‘home’ time.

A GMT watch, on the other hand, always uses a 24-hour scale for the second time zone, most commonly located on the outside of the dial or else engraved on the bezel, which can either be fixed or rotatable. The name comes from ‘Greenwich Mean Time’ – measured from the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London, which is the start point for the 24 global time zones.

Most GMT watches still use the method devised by Rolex for the GMT-Master, and are fitted with an additional hour hand, geared to run at half the speed of the main hand, which points out the destination time on the scale. Early examples had both hour hands mechanically linked, meaning the watch could only be used to follow two individual time zones. However, later pieces disconnected the two, so wearers could actually follow three zones by bringing a rotating bezel into play. So, what are our favorite GMT watches?

Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675

GMT-Master 1675 Key Features:

– Production Years: 1959 – 1980

– Case Size: 40mm

– Materials: Stainless Steel; Yellow Rolesor; Yellow Gold

– Functions: Time w/ Running Seconds, Date Display, GMT Functionality

– Dial: Black or Brown w Luminous Hour Markers

– Bezel: Bidirectional, Aluminum Insert w/24-hour scale

– Crystal: Acrylic (Flat w/ Cyclops Lens)

– Movement: Rolex Caliber 1565 or Caliber 1575

– Water Resistance: 50 Meters

– Strap/Bracelet: Oyster or Jubilee Bracelet

– Approx. Price: $9,000 – $100,000+

As only the second generation of Rolex’s GMT-Master range, the ref. 1675 makes a mouthwateringly tempting target for many collectors. Not only is it a genuine vintage example of the world’s favorite travelers’ watch – something that would normally put it out of reach of all but the most well-heeled. However, the GMT-Master 1675 was in production for such a long time that the pre-owned market has plenty of examples, making prices surprisingly attainable.

During its 21-year run from 1959 to 1980, the ref. 1675 went through countless changes, while simultaneously sticking to the accepted overall format we still know today. You will find pieces with either gilt or matte dials (the switchover happened around the mid ’60s), and some extremely rare variations within them, including chapter ring dials, double Swiss underline dials, and the so-called exclamation mark dials, which all keep serious collectors busy.

Similarly, the earliest models had GMT hands with small arrow tips, which were swapped for significantly larger ones during the reference’s lifespan. And, just as with the Submariner ref. 5512 that debuted the same year, the crown guards on the case also changed shape over time, going from the pointed ‘El Cornino’ style to the more rounded design we know today. The movement was upgraded as well, starting out with the Cal. 1565, which was replaced with the Cal. 1575 in 1964, and in 1972, Rolex fitted it with a hacking seconds function.

However, the GMT-Master’s story will always center around its bezel. The ref. 1675 was first offered in steel with the fabled red and blue Pepsi bezel – the color scheme both an aesthetic choice and a practical one, as it gave wearers an at-a-glance approximation of night and daytime hours. During the course of its production run, the reference 1675 was offered in both Rolesor (a combination of stainless steel and yellow gold) in the form of the ref. 1675/3 and solid 18k yellow gold as the ref. 1675/8. Between the different material options and the range of variation that exists among this single model, it is possible to spend vast sums on this vital chapter of Rolex’s history, yet excellent examples can also be had for under $10,000, which is an extremely reasonable sum for such an important watch.

Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126719BLRO Meteorite

GMT-Master II 126719BLRO Key Features:

– Production Years: 2019 – Present

– Materials: 18k White Gold

– Dial: Meteorite w/ Luminous Hour Markers

– Bezel: Bidirectional, Cerachrom Insert w/24-hour scale.

– Crystal: Sapphire (Flat w/ Cyclops Lens)

– Movement: Rolex Caliber 3285

– Water Resistance: 100 Meters

– Strap/Bracelet: Oyster Bracelet

– Approx. Price: $39,900 (New); $65,000 – $80,000 (Pre-Owned)

From a vintage classic to a future one, this modern incarnation of the GMT-Master II is a far cry from the rough and ready tool watch of the 1950s. Although the basics are the same – a 40mm case, a red and blue bezel. and an additional GMT hand, the ref. 126719BLRO is the end result (so far) of more than 60-years of tweaking, fine-tuning, and the elevation of materials.

The case is now crafted from the finest 18k white gold, forged in Rolex’s own foundry. The bezel is the brand’s proprietary Cerachrom ceramic – a scratch-proof, fade-proof, and nigh-on unbreakable material that is diamond polished and coated with a layer of platinum. Additionally, the movement inside is the latest generation Cal. 3285, complete with the revolutionary Chronergy escapement and blue Parachrom hairspring.

If all that wasn’t opulence enough, the watch also offers the ultimate in exclusivity by being topped with a dial made from a genuine meteorite. Consisting mainly of iron and nickel, meteorite is the name for a piece of a celestial object (comet, asteroid, etc.) that has traveled through space and landed on Earth. This is not the first time that Rolex has used the substance in its watches – there are a host of Datejust and Day-Date models with meteorite dials, and the Daytona was also given one this year – but it is the first time seeing it on a GMT-Master.

Meteorite is a fascinating material and one that is completely unique. Each wafer-thin slice used in the dials has its own patterns and striations, known as Widmanstätten structures, which are caused by the extreme temperature changes as the meteor crashed through the Earth’s atmosphere.

What this means is that no two examples of the ref. 126719BLRO will look the same and it also lifts the watch up as a whole. Usually fitted with black or at least very dark dials, the light silvery color of this model is a refreshing change and about as close as many of us will ever get to the mythical white-dial Albino GMT-Master rumored to have been made for PAN-AM senior directors in the 1950s. The reference 126719BLRO is a true luxury watch for the luxury traveler, and the pinnacle of Rolex GMT-Master II watches.

Rolex Explorer II ref. 16570

Explorer II 16570 Key Features:

– Production Years: 1989 – 2011

– Materials: Stainless Steel

– Dial: White or Black w/ Luminou Hour Markers

– Bezel: Fixed, Stainless Steel w/ Engraved 24-Hour Scale

– Movement: Rolex Caliber 3185 or Caliber 3186

– Approx. Price: $8,000 – $15,000

The Rolex Explorer II series has always existed somewhat in the shadows of the GMT-Master range, despite the abundant similarities between the collections. The two shared not only a case for the majority of their respective runs but also the movement powering them. The ref. 16570 represented just the third generation of the watch when it emerged in 1989, and it really only differed from its predecessor (the ref. 16550) in its movement – upgrading from the short-lived Cal. 3085 to the Cal. 3185 for most of its life.

Unlike Rolex’s real icons, the Explorer II has stayed close to the brand’s tool watch roots, never having more than two options for dial colors and only ever issued in stainless steel. Even its sibling, the original Explorer, recently received a two-tone Rolesor version in stainless steel and 18k yellow gold in 2021. However, it is that single-mindedness that has gained the Explorer II a smaller but still highly enthusiastic fan base. This is a Rolex from the old school era and many believe that it is all the better for it.

The reference 16570 is actually the gateway into Rolex Explorer II ownership, with prices starting at around $8,000. For that, you get an extremely tough, versatile watch with a genuine GMT function that is a step away from the usual suspects. Available with either a white (Polar) or black dial, each has a distinct personality; the former bright, crisp and conspicuous, while the latter is understated and stealthy. The extra hour hand is the same as was used on the GMT-Master of the period, long, thin, and finished in red rather than the more popular Freccione style of the original and current examples. An Explorer II from any era is a joy and is seen by many as one of the last ‘real’ Rolex sport watches, and the ref. 16570 is the most attainable of them all.

Omega Planet Ocean 600M GMT ref. 215.30.44.22.01.001

Planet Ocean GMT Key Features:

– Production Years: 2016 – Present

– Case Size: 43.5mm

– Functions: Time w/ Running Seconds, Date Display, GMT Functionality, Helium Escape Valve

– Dial: Black w/ Luminou Hour Markers

– Bezel: Bidirectional; Black and White Ceramic w/ 24-Hour Scale

– Crystal: Sapphire (Domed)

– Movement: Omega Caliber 8906

– Water Resistance: 600 Meters

– Strap/Bracelet: Stainless Steel Bracelet

– Approx. Price: $8,000 (New); $6,500 – $9,000 (Pre-Owned)

Giving Rolex a run for its money on just about every front is Omega, whose output over the last few years has been extraordinary. The brand’s Planet Ocean range, first released in 2013, is a case in point. A bigger, deeper, stronger alternative to the fan (and James Bond) favorite Seamaster 300M series, everything here is dialed up to the nth degree, from sizes to materials to abilities. One of the most impressive is the ref. 215.30.44.22.01.001 – or to give it its snappier nickname, the Cookies & Cream.

As with the rest of the Planet Ocean range, the Cookies & Cream is primarily a dive watch, and one with a fearsome 600m water resistance rating. However, it is also the owner of the world’s first polished bi-ceramic black and white bezel, the perfect indicator of nighttime and daytime hours for its GMT function. (If you were wondering, Rolex’s Cerachrom bezels are all made from one piece of ceramic that is then treated to get two colors).

Omega’s resurgence has come as a result of the brand offering its customers a lot of watch for their money, and the Cookies & Cream Planet Ocean GMT is jam-packed with impressive features. Plus, at 43.5mm in diameter and more than 17mm tall, it is also a lot of watch in the literal sense of the word too. In addition to the bezel, the dial is also ceramic and a helium escape valve juts out at the 10 o’clock.

Inside, the movement powering the Cookies & Cream Planet Ocean GMT is a fully in-house, Co-Axial equipped Master Chronometer, accurate to a METAS-certified 0/+5 seconds a day and completely antimagnetic. A proven winner from one of the most storied watchmakers in the business, the Omega Planet Ocean Cookies & Cream is a tough one to beat.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M GMT Chronograph ref. 212.30.44.52.01.001

Seamaster Diver GMT Chronograph Key Features:

– Production Years: 2014 – Present

– Case Size: 44mm

– Dial: Black w/ Luminous Hour Markers

– Bezel: Unidirectional; Grey Ceramic w/ 60-Minute Scale

– Movement: Omega Caliber 3603

– Water Resistance: 300 Meters

– Approx. Price: $7,100 (New); $4,500 – $6,000 (Pre-Owned)

For those who like their watches with a lot going on, we give you this piece from Omega’s extensive Seamaster Diver 300M series, which manages to be a full-throated dive watch, a chronograph, and a GMT. With so much to do, the ref. 212.30.44.52.01.001 could very well have become an illegible mess, but a combination of intelligent styling and a playing surface of 44mm means that it displays all its information in a practical and readable package.

Concessions have had to be made, of course. The bezel, usually given over to a 24-hour scale on a regular GMT, is instead still a unidirectional dive bezel, inscribed with 60-minute graduations. That has relegated the second time zone markings to the outer edge of the dial where it takes a bit more effort to see them, but that is really nitpicking. The watch’s other talents make up for any inconvenience, such as the unusual ability to operate the chronograph pushers while underwater. An extremely useful function for precisely timing things like decompression stops, it sets the model apart among a sea of rivals.

Like the Planet Ocean above, there is also plenty of presence here. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M GMT Chronograph sits high off the wrist, with a thick chunky case containing the Omega Co-Axial Caliber 3603. Based on the Piguet 1285, it features a column wheel-controlled chronograph (30-minute and 12-hour counters, with running seconds at 9 o’clock), a date display, a central GMT hand, and a co-axial escapement. COSC-certified, it beats at 4Hz and has a 52-hour reserve. Overall, if you are headed off on vacation and want just one watch to cover every possible situation and every requirement, this one has you covered.

Tudor Black Bay GMT ref. M79830RB-0001

Black Bay GMT Key Features:

– Production Years: 2018 – Present

– Case Size: 41mm

– Bezel: Bidirectional, Aluminum Insert w/ 24-Hour Scale

– Movement: Tudor Caliber MT5652

– Water Resistance: 200 meters

– Approx. Price: $4,100 (New); $3,100 – $5,800 (Pre-Owned)

Rolex sibling company Tudor has been doing great business over the last decade or so by tapping into the public’s obsession for all things vintage, and nowhere more so than with its Black Bay GMT model. Rocking up to Baselworld 2018 with the Black Bay GMT ref. M79830RB-0001, Tudor even managed to steal some of the limelight away from the long-awaited return of a stainless steel Pepsi bezel GMT-Master II from its parent company, which goes some way to proving just how well-loved this watch is among collectors and enthusiasts.

Ironically, Tudor did it by delving back into Rolex’s own archives for inspiration. The Tudor model has all the hallmarks of the first-ever Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542, with a steel case devoid of crown guards, a matte black dial complete with chapter ring, a blue and red aluminum insert, a coin-edged bezel ring, and even a rivet-style bracelet. To that, Tudor has also drawn from its own history, adding a large 8mm crown reminiscent of the Tudor (and Rolex, for that matter) Submariner watches first seen in the 1950s and (of course) the opinion-dividing Snowflake hands.

However, unlike many brands, Tudor hasn’t gone too far with the retro detailing. There’s no beige ‘fauxtina’ on the hour markers, for instance, which can easily look a bit try-hard if overdone. Inside, nostalgia gives way to modernity, with the in-house MT5652. Tudor’s first-ever homegrown GMT movement, the COSC-certified chronometer features a 28,800vph frequency, a 70-hour power reserve, and an antimagnetic silicon hairspring.

Best of all, as with just about everything that emerges from Tudor’s facilities, is the cost of the Black Bay GMT. This slice of mid-20th century reminiscence retails at just over $4,000, which is less than half the official price of the comparable GMT-Master II, and orders of magnitude cheaper than hunting down a vintage ref. 6542.

Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT ref. SBGJ201

Grand Seiko SBGJ201 Key Features:

– Production Years: 2017 – Present

– Dial: White w/ Polished Hour Markers

– Bezel: Fixed, Stainless Steel, Smooth Style

– Movement: Grand Seiko Caliber 9S86

– Approx. Price: $7,400 (New); $4,800 – $6,700 (Pre-Owned)

A dressier example than we’ve seen so far, and one teeming with Grand Seiko’s distinctive design codes, the Hi-Beat GMT ref. SBGJ201 is a more elegant take on the travel watch theme. The 40mm steel case is a textbook example of the brand’s ‘Grammar of Design’ philosophy, a styling language devised by Seiko’s celebrated first draftsman, Taro Tanaka, with exquisite angled facets and ultra-clean geometry, highlighted by Zaratsu polishing to give an incredible mirror finish. It has been informing the look of the manufacturer’s output since the 1960s and gives their watches a shape like no other.

However, it is Grand Seiko’s dials that have been creating headlines in the last few years, most notably with the much-loved Snowflake from 2005. As with that piece, the SBGJ201 has also drawn its inspiration from the frozen landscape surrounding the Shizuku-Ishi studio (where the watchmaker’s mechanical models are built) and more specifically, the snow-capped peaks in the distance. The subtle off-white dial has been given a sunburst/lineated texture as if looking out of a car windscreen while driving through a blizzard. Named after the region’s highest mountain, the model is better known as the “Mt. Iwate” among enthusiasts of the brand.

Complimenting the face perfectly are a pair of gleaming, razor-sharp main hands and simple baton hour markers. All have beautifully executed, hand-carved bevels, while an ice blue GMT indicator points out the second time zone on the 24-hour scale around the perimeter. Although not powered by one of GS’s famed Spring Drive movements, the 9S86 is a high beat, 36,000vph caliber with a 55-hour reserve. The 10 ticks-per-second glide of the seconds hand is incredibly smooth to watch in action. An outstanding illustration of Japanese engineering and finishing, the Grand Seiko Mt Iwate GMT is a true class act.

Breitling Navitimer World ref. A2432212

Navitimer World Key Features:

– Production Years: 2012 – Present

– Case Size: 46mm

– Functions: Time w/ Running Seconds, Date Display, 12-Hour Chronograph, GMT Functionality

– Dial: Black or Blue w/ Luminous Hour Markers

– Bezel: Bidirectional, Stainless Steel with Aviator’s Slide Rule

– Movement: Breitling Caliber 24

– Water Resistance: 30 Meters

– Strap/Bracelet: Stainless Steel Bracelet or Leather Strap

– Approx. Price: $7,350 – $7,600 (New); $4,000 – $7,300 (Pre-Owned)

The most famous model among pilot’s watches, the Breitling Navitimer, and its iconic slide rule bezel have been the number one choice for the true aviation enthusiast since 1952. More recently, that hardworking watch took on even more responsibilities, with the 2012 release of the Navitimer World, a 46mm model with a bonus GMT complication, adding 24-hour gradations to a dial already full of logarithmic scales.

However, while it would be easy to imagine displaying all that information (plus a date function and chronograph) would be too cluttered and confusing, it is all perfectly legible and intuitive. You could actually be forgiven for thinking the World was a standard Navi at first glance, and it is only upon closer inspection that you see the red-tipped additional hour hand and golden 24-hour numerals. Handily, the case back has been engraved with the time zones of the world’s major cities as well.

The movement is the Breitling 24, an automatic caliber based on the ETA/Valjoux 7754. Chronometer-rated, it offers users a 42-hour reserve and 28,800vph balance speed. Breitling The Navitimer World comes with either a black or blue dial, and with a selection of leather straps or Breitling’s intricate seven-link steel bracelet. Possibly the most complete pilot’s tool watch, The Navitimer World really has just about everything covered.

Panerai Luminor GMT ref. PAM01088

Luminor GMT PAM01088 Key Features:

– Movement: Panerai Caliber OPXXXI

– Strap/Bracelet: Leather or Rubber Strap

– Approx. Price: $7,500 – $7,600 (New); $6,500 – $8,300 (Pre-Owned)

Another of the industry’s most recognizable designs, the Panerai Luminor range currently consists of more than 60 watches, ranging from simple time-only models to some extraordinary haute horlogerie examples boasting skeletonized tourbillons and equation of time moonphase complications. Among them are several GMT models, including the PAM01088, a 44mm stainless steel piece, with all the essential Panerai elements present and correct.

The dial is the definition of legibility itself, with enormous lume-drenched Arabic numerals in the proprietary font at the 12 and 6, with similarly glowing large batons for the rest. The running seconds are given their own sub-dial at the 9 o’clock and the case is the archetypal cushion shape with (of course) that signature lever-controlled bridge protecting the winding crown. However, the handset differs from the norm, with great fat cutout main hands with lumed ends, and a small arrow-tipped GMT hand pointing to the 24-hour scale around the dial’s edge. A date display sits at the 3 o’clock location, with an internal Cyclops-esque magnifying lens above.

Under the hood sits the Caliber OP XXXI, a self-winding movement (unlike some of the Luminor series) based on the ETA/Valjoux 7750. Perhaps the most widely used third-party movement ever, it actually starts life as a chronograph. However, Panerai has removed the stopwatch module and replaced it with their own GMT unit. Working away at 28,800vph, it offers a healthy 50-hour power reserve.

As for the all-important straps and bracelets beloved by the Paneristi, take your pick from the supplied Scamosciato dark brown leather, or the diving black rubber strap, each secured with a steel tang buckle. A useful and stylish addition to any collection, the Panerai Luminor GMT is a superb everyday sports watch.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time

Longines, renowned for equipping aviation legends like Hugh Herndon, Clyde Pangborn, and Amy Johnson, has elegantly tapped into its heritage with the introduction of the Zulu Time model in its Spirit collection. This model, named after the military term for Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), showcases a robust stainless steel case available in both 42mm and 39mm sizes. Inside each timepiece beats a newly developed proprietary movement, enabling the precise adjustment of the traditional hour hand and a GMT hand. This feature brilliantly tracks an additional time zone along the 24-hour bezel, which is adorned with lacquered engraved numerals set into a vibrant ceramic bezel insert.

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Timer GMT ref. 01 748 7756 4064-07 3 22 02LC

ProPilot Timer GMT Key Features Key Features:

– Bezel: Bidirectional, Stainless Steel w/ 60-Minute Scale

– Movement: Oris Caliber 748

– Strap/Bracelet: Textile or Leather Strap; Stainless Steel Bracelet

– Approx. Price: $2,600 (New); $1,600 – $2,600 (Pre-Owned)

A brand that has always been a big favorite of ours, Oris has some of the best value for the money watches in the entire Swiss watch business. The brand’s portfolio covers four main areas: Diving, Culture, MotorSport, and Aviation, and it is within that last category that you will find the Big Crown ProPilot Timer GMT.

A more vintage aesthetic than Oris’s Aquis dive models, the ProPilot Timer GMT has all the necessary requirements of a true pilot’s watch. It has a sizable diameter of 44mm, with acres of room on the dial for large, SuperLumiNova coated indexes. The long hands and thin bezel only add to the feeling of space, and the watch’s 24-hour numerals are found around the perimeter, sitting on the dial’s raised outer flange. The GMT hand is topped with a red arrow, which looks like a top-down view of an Avro Vulcan, with its famous Delta wing. That leaves the bidirectional bezel available for a 60-minute scale, meaning that it can act as a timer too.

Additionally, both the bezel edge and the titular big crown are given aviation-style knurling to aid with grip – which is handy if you happen to be wearing gloves. The movement is the Oris 748, which is actually the Sellita SW220-1. An excellent, hardworking caliber, it has a respectable 38-hour reserve, 26 jewels, and beats at 28,800vph. Turn the ProPilot Timer GMT over and you will see through the sapphire case back that Oris has added its trademark red rotor.

As an all-round, fully-fledged pilot’s watch, the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Timer GMT ticks just about every box, and at around $2,500 (and even less on the pre-owned market) you will go a long way before you find another Swiss-made GMT watch that offers so much for so little.

Oris Aquis GMT Date

The Oris Aquis GMT Date displays time with striking clarity, thanks to its Superluminova hour markers and hands, and a GMT hand in a contrasting yellow. It features a tough ceramic 24-hour bezel, allowing for easy tracking of two time zones simultaneously. This watch, a trendsetter in stainless steel, boasts a robust case just over 43mm in diameter, a sophisticated multi-link bracelet, and a reliable self-winding movement. Whether it’s for underwater adventures or as a stylish travel companion, the Oris is designed to impress. Overall a nice watch at incredible value for any collector.

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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11 of the best GMT watches for tracking the time all around the globe

The relationship between timekeeping and travel is a close one. With its roots in maritime history, progressing into aviation and our ceaseless endeavour to make the world a much smaller place, the GMT complication plays an important role by keeping us in touch with other time zones. If you’re a frequent flier, you’ll know that mild annoyance of resetting the time on your watch to the new local time zone once you land. If you’re like me, though, you’ll quickly forget what the time is back home. A GMT-equipped watch fixes this, providing the ability to track multiple time zones at once. Simply put, it’s one of the most popular and practical mechanical watch complications – I’d even go as far as to say that no watch collection is complete without one.

GMT watch history

Before we get into our picks for the best GMT watches on the market right now, it’s worth delving a little into the complication’s history. Dual time watches have existed since the 19th century, with the Industrial Revolution, colonisation, and globalisation making it increasingly important to be able to conveniently track time in two different locations across the world. Early dual time watches accomplished this by simply putting two movements into one timepiece that could be set to different times – a method that continues to see sporadic use even today.

Another watch complication that solves the problem of tracking time across the globe is the world timer, with the world’s first world time watch hitting the market in 1931: the Patek Philippe ref. 515 Heure Universelle, with a movement designed by Louis Cottier (whose father Emmanuel came up with the original concept for a world timer in 1885 at the behest of the Canadian Railways). World timers are similar but not the same as GMTs.

However, the term “GMT watch” (as well as the modern format for a dual time watch) first came to prominence with the Rolex GMT-Master. The GMT-Master owes its genesis to Pan Am, who in 1954 commissioned the watch from Rolex for their pilots: since pilots constantly travel between multiple time zones, they needed a watch that could display their time at home (or a reference time, such as UTC/GMT) and be easily set to a new local time when they landed, without disturbing the home time displayed. Now, without further ado, here’s our guide to the best GMT watches.

Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT

As far as entry-level GMT watches go, the Seiko 5 GMT is pretty hard to beat. Taking design inspiration from the classic (and now discontinued) SKX case shape and combining it with a bit of Rolex-esque GMT flair, there’s a lot to like about this budget-friendly mechanical GMT. While it’s not quite dive-rated with a non-screw-down crown and only 100 metres of water resistance , its handsome dive watch looks combined with a robust and easily serviceable 4R34 movement make it a versatile daily wearer. It’s also available in a wide range of colours as well as basically everywhere, from Seiko boutiques to mall kiosks. Price: US$475

Baltic Aquascaphe GMT

A more retro-looking, Gallic take on the formula, this Baltic Aquascaphe GMT is another great affordable choice. Size-wise, the 39mm case is slender and well-proportioned, framed with a blue and red sapphire bezel reminiscent of old Bakelite bezels. The whole look is superb, even down to the lumed indices in the bezel. Combine that with a domed sapphire crystal, large, guard-less crown, and drilled lugs, and you have an ideal, classically inspired GMT. Powered by the Soprod C125 GMT movement, and priced at a reasonable A$1,750, the Baltic Aquascaphe GMT makes for a combination that is hard to overlook. Price: US$1,074 (rubber strap), US$1,139 (beads of rice bracelet), available from the Time+Tide Shop

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

At Watches & Wonders 2024 , the prayers of Tudor fans worldwide were finally answered with the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT , which takes the cult-favourite diver and adds in GMT functionality. Measuring up at 39mm in diameter, 12.8mm thick, and with a lug-to-lug length around 47mm, this hotly anticipated model is thinner than previous Tudor GMT watches (such as the Black Bay Pro ) and oozes vintage Rolex vibes, with an aluminium Coke-coloured bezel insert plus gilt indices and hands. Unlike its more expensive Rolex siblings, however, it’s actually Master Chronometer-certified rather than just COSC . The best bit? Regardless of whether you opt for a rubber strap or faux-riveted Oyster bracelet, both come with Tudor’s superb T-Fit, on-the-fly, micro-adjustment clasps. Price: US$4,400 (rubber), US$4,600 (bracelet)

Nomos Tangomat GMT

Nomos took another different approach with its GMT, doing its best to retain the minimalist aesthetic the brand is well-known for. At first glance, you’d be forgiven for not noticing the Tangomat GMT was a GMT at all, but looking a little closer reveals its secrets. There are two apertures on either side of the dial. At 9 o’clock, we have 24 different airport codes to denote each time zone, changeable at the press of a button. At 3 o’clock sits a 24-hour indicator which moves in time with the cycle of one day. This makes for a simple but very clever way of tracking time wherever you are in the world – more akin to a world timer, but not quite a world timer. All of these features are squeezed into a slender, 10.9mm-thick stainless steel case, which is only 40mm in diameter. Being a Nomos, however, expect it to wear on the large side due to the thin bezel and strut-like lugs. Price: US$4,920

Grand Seiko SBGE285 Evolution 9 Spring Drive GMT

Sporting a fixed bezel like Rolex’s other famous GMT watch, the Explorer II – as well as a beautiful matte dial that recalls the legendary Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake – the SBGE285 Evolution 9 Spring Drive GMT is nonetheless a singularly unique and exceptional GMT watch. Crafted from light yet robust High-Intensity Titanium and featuring a beautifully curved 41mm case that hugs the wearer’s wrist, this is a watch truly designed with the rigours of international travel in mind. As its designation implies, under its hood beats a 9R66 Spring Drive movement, finished with tasteful Shinshu stripes, and accurate to ±1 second per day / ±15 seconds per month on average – and of course, boasts that characteristically butter-smooth sweeping seconds hand. Price: US$8,400

Cartier Santos de Cartier Dual Time

Few watches are as cosmopolitan as the Santos de Cartier, which was originally designed as an aviator’s watch. We’ve seen a few GMT watch takes on this classic timepiece over the years, but 2024 has seen a Dual Time model return to the range , and this one might be the most cohesive yet. Neatly integrated at 6 o’clock, the second time zone and day/night indicator combine with a subtle anthracite dial, making it subtly stand out from other Santos models. A colour-matched date wheel is a nice touch, as is the dial’s tasteful sunray finish. The movement powering this Cartier is a fairly unillustrious Sellita number, but that’s neither here nor there – Cartier has always been about style over all else, and this GMT watch is nothing if not stylish. Price: US$9,150

Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi”

In 1954, right in the middle of the jet-set era, Pan American Airlines, or Pan Am, commissioned Rolex to produce a watch for their transatlantic pilots. The result was the GMT-Master , a watch with a rotating bezel showing 24 different time zones and a fourth hand, which rotated once per day. Almost 70 years later, the GMT-Master remains one of the most influential and popular Rolexes ever, with its original “Pepsi” bezel colour scheme (the red and blue actually chosen to reflect Pan Am corporate colours) easily the most popular version of this watch. The modern GMT-Master II, unlike the original GMT-Master, is a “true” GMT watch – meaning it has an independently adjustable GMT hand – and features a ceramic bi-colour bezel. Price: US$10,900 (ref. 126710BLRO)

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante features a unique take on the GMT watch formula that’s challenging to execute, but dead simple to use. It’s ditched the normal GMT trend of bold colours and large bezels, opting for a much more minimalist and luxurious approach, featuring a gorgeous blue guilloché dial, uncluttered by text and logos, other than the simple PF emblem applied below 12 o’clock. The sleek integrated bracelet is just about the best in the business, flowing into the case seamlessly. The beautifully finished PF051 calibre is showcased beneath an exhibition sapphire caseback, and the movement’s party trick is its GMT function. Unlike conventional GMT mechanisms, it’s activated by a sculpted side pusher and golden pusher integrated into the crown. A single press of the left button elegantly advances the GMT hand by an hour with a soft glide, making those post-flight time zone changes a joy. Once you return, the crown pusher snaps the GMT hand back underneath the main hour hand. Genius. Price: US$30,700

Patek Philippe 5524R Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

The Pilot Calatrava was met with some controversy in 2015, as it didn’t seem to fit what everyone anticipated from Patek Philippe to release as part of the Calatrava collection. The unexpected military design and odd pusher setup confused enthusiasts in the early moments of its release, but in time, the 5524R has proven to be a popular and highly coveted model in Patek Philippe’s lineup . The 42mm case is well-proportioned at just over 10mm in height, while the rounded lugs lightly sweep down. A sapphire exhibition caseback displays the typically stunning Caliber 26‑330 S C FUS movement, which features dual time zones, day and night indicators, and Patek’s famed travel time complication, allowing the wearer to neatly tuck away the GMT hand when not in use. The dial itself is a varnished dark brown , with some of the biggest numerals I’ve ever seen on a Patek Philippe, giving the 5524 a vintage, military-esque appearance, but in such a way that it doesn’t lose its elegance. Price: US$57,620

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Green Collection

Few watches epitomise the glamour of international travel that’s inherent with GMT watches more than this Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time in green and gold . A particularly sumptuous take on the already exclusive integrated luxury sports watch, this model combines a sunray-brushed olive green dial (the first green dial to appear on an Overseas) with a lustrous 18k pink gold case. A particularly user-friendly take on a travel watch, its extra hand can be moved in one-hour increments via the crown, while a pusher just below it at 4:30 advances the date display. Rather than using a 24-hour hand, it instead features an AM/PM indicator at 9 o’clock connected to the GMT hand, making it easier to read the second time zone at a glance. Price: US$75,500

Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Titanium

For most brands, creating a GMT is easy, the instructions are as follows: take your best-selling diver, add a GMT hand and perhaps a two-colour bezel, and bingo! You have yourself a best-selling GMT. Greubel Forsey didn’t take the easy route with the GMT Sport – in fact, quite the opposite. GF took the bespoke approach with this hand-finished, 33-piece limited edition, with an openworked dial showcasing the suspended tourbillon and eye-catching globe which rotates once every 24 hours to cleverly indicate the time in any particular part of the world. The GMT Sport is a statement piece, with a case size of 42mm and a 17.8mm thickness it’s not fitting under any cuffs, but its bright colours, details, level of finishing, and even the paraboloid-shaped sapphire crystal are unique, coming together to make a desirable and functional GMT watch for the more discerning (and extremely cashed-up) traveller. Price: US$480,000 (rubber), US$500,000 (bracelet)

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Best GMT Watches of 2024 for Men Who Love to Travel

A GMT is a traveler’s watch with a 24-hour hand that can measure time in more than one time zone. Since its arrival in the '50s (via Rolex ), the GMT watch has been widely emulated by other watch companies—ranging in price from a few hundred bucks to many thousands. Brands like Breitling , Seiko , TAG Heuer , and Omega  all make great GMTs. So, in selecting our best GMT watch picks from a range of companies, we focused on a few different criteria: Does it have a connection to that original GMT, or is it totally its own vibe? Is it especially affordable while still being undeniably great? Finally, does it stand on its own as a unique masterpiece worthy of any collection?

Men’s Journal aims to feature only the best products and services. We update when possible, but deals expire and prices can change. If you buy something via one of our links, we may earn a commission.

Aside from telling the time in at least two time zones, each of these standout GMT watches has something unique to offer. Our pick for the best overall GMT watch is the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT . The brand is owned by Rolex, so you’re getting that level of quality at a fraction of the cost with the new Black Bay. At $4,600, it's still an investment—but it's a do-anything, wear-anywhere, keep-for-life GMT watch. If you're interested in other great watches and our best overall picks in multiple categories, check out our annual Watch Guide .

Best GMT Watches of 2024 at a Glance

Best gmt watch overall: tudor black bay 58 gmt.

Best Budget GMT Watch: Seiko 5 Sports Field GMT

Best Manual Wind GMT Watch: Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT

Best Gold-Tone GMT Watch: Bulova Oceanographer GMT

Best GMT Watch for Adventure: Timex Expedition North GMT Titanium Automatic

Best vintage-styled gmt watch: echo/neutra cortina 1956 gmt.

Best Modern GMT Watch: Bell & Ross BR-V2 93 GMT

Best GMT Watches of 2024

Tudor’s new Black Bay 58 GMT is definitely an investment, but it’s a do-anything, wear-anywhere, keep-for-life kind of watch. The boldness of the black dial is softened by the gold-tripped vintage cream hands and hour markers—and the black and red rotating bezel is even more striking in person than in pictures. The riveted bracelet is tapered in a way that makes the watch feel very light, and with the 39mm width, this works for all wrists and genders. The clasp is easily micro-adjustable without any tools, and high precision. The movement is a certified chronometer with a 65-hour power reserve, and water resistant to 200 meters. Tudor is owned by Rolex, and you’re getting that level of quality at a fraction of the cost of a Rolex GMT.

CASE: Stainless steel

MOVEMENT: Automatic self-winding COSC-certified chronometer

DIAL: Black

STRAP: Satin stainless steel bracelet, black rubber strap

Best Budget GMT Watch: Seiko 5 Sports Field GMT SSK023

Believe it or not, this rugged steel beauty is the first 5 Sports watch Seiko has ever made with a GMT function. To a classic 5 Sports field watch dial, Seiko added a bright orange 5-sided GMT hand and a fixed steel bezel. The self-winding Seiko movement has an option to manually wind it, and it’s visible through the see-through caseback. With 100 meters water resistance, its rugged looks aren’t just for show, and the luminous hands, markers, and numerals make it very legible in the dark. It comes on an excellent steel bracelet, but we also recommend trying it on a NATO strap. If bang-for-buck value is your priority, you can stop reading now and just buy this watch, as it even edges the excellent Timex below on price.

MOVEMENT: Self-winding Seiko automatic movement

DIAL:  Black

SIZE: 39.4mm

STRAP: Stainless steel bracelet

Best Manual Wind GMT Watch: Grand Seiko Spring Drive SPGE295 GMT

This manual-wind spring drive Grand Seiko is a mechanical work of art. When fully winded, it will run for a full 72 hours—and a power indicator hand on the dial lets you know when it’s time to give it another few twists. The dial itself is a rich, textured green color inspired by the Hotaka Mountains, which the Grand Seiko watchmakers look out over as they work. It beats a typical GMT by keeping time in three time zones: one on the rotating outer 24 hour bezel (like a GMT); a second time zone on the fixed inner 24-hour ring at the outermost edge of the dial; and a third with the standard hands and 12-hour markers. At 44mm wide, it's a substantial watch—but you'll need it to be large and legible to actually use the Triple Time functions.

MOVEMENT: Manual-wind spring drive

DIAL: Textured green

The Best Gold-Tone GMT Watch: Bulova Oceanographer GMT

A gold-tone GMT is a bold choice, but the Rolex GMT in gold costs as much as a sedan. The Bulova Oceanographer GMT in rose gold-tone stainless steel is a makeover of a classic automatic GMT that Bulova first introduced in 1969. The black and brown “Root Beer” bezel hue veers the gold tone into late-'60s, early-'70s cool—as does the dome sapphire crystal. It’s a statement timepiece, but it’s also a truly collectible one. The self-winding automatic movement has a 42-hour power reserve, and the screw-down crown allows for a surprisingly robust 200 meters of water resistance.

CASE: Rose gold-tone stainless steel

MOVEMENT: Automatic self-winding movement

STRAP: Rose gold-tone stainless steel bracelet

With a light but ultra-tough shock resistant titanium case and a waterproof silicone strap, Timex’s brand-new titanium GMT is built for down-to-earth adventures. Under the anti-reflective and scratch resistant sapphire crystal, the bright white hour and minute hands and the yellow GMT hand are easy to read against the matte black dial, even in darkness, thanks to their bright luminescence. The Japanese automatic self-winding movement is visible through the exhibition caseback and water resistant up to 200 meters. The strap comes with a quick release, should you want to easily dress it up with leather.

CASE: Bead-blasted titanium

MOVEMENT: Japanese self-winding automatic

DIAL: Matte black

STRAP: Silicone

Designed in Italy, this Swiss-made, ’50s-inspired GMT looks like it came from the same zeitgeist as a 1950s Ferrari. Against the ocean blue dial, the bright orange-red GMT hand keeps home time on a 24-hour fixed bezel made of sapphire glass layered over Arabic numerals, and the domed Sapphire crystal has the flair of a sports car windscreen. Far from just a pretty face, it’s water resistant to 100 meters, and it comes with a rubber tropic strap you can use to actually take it diving. At just 12mm thick (thin for an automatic watch), this Cortina 1956 GMT is comfy on the wrist and won’t snag on your sport coat sleeves while you’re riding your vintage Vespa.

MOVEMENT: Swiss self-winding automatic

STRAP: Leather and rubber

Best Modern GMT Watch: Bell & Ross BR-V2 93 GMT

This is a classic GMT with clean modern lines from Bell & Ross, whose watches are inspired by aircraft cockpits. The simple black dial has numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9, achieving a minimalist look inspired by flight instrumentation—with the bright orange GMT hand providing a color accent against the inky black dial surrounded by a bi-directional rotating black bezel. You can buy it on a stainless steel bracelet or on a “tropic” rubber strap for $300 less—or better yet, get both. Simple and elegant, this is a Swiss-made GMT that will never go out of style.

STRAP: Polished stainless steel bracelet, rubber

What Is a GMT Watch?

By its simplest definition, a GMT is a traveler's watch with a 24-hour hand that can measure time in more than one time zone. Sean Connery’s James Bond made the Rolex Submariner famous in popular culture, while the GMT had Magnum P.I. with his blue-and-red bezel Rolex GMT-Master “Pepsi,” and Hunter S. Thompson with his red-and-black “Coke” Rolex GMT-Master II. If a GMT says anything, it’s that your world is large and your range is wide.

Dual-time watches have existed since the 19 th century, becoming more necessary tools with the advent of 20th-century air travel—while migrating from pockets to wrists. Until the early 1950’s, if you were a pilot your best option for keeping tabs on two time zones was to wear a world timer watch that had a 24-hour index for one time zone and rotating bezels that could track another. It worked, but wasn’t as easy to instantly check as a GMT—where local time is measured by standard hands on a normal 12-hour dial, and a fourth hand tracks a second time zone (usually the wearer’s home time) on the 24-hour bezel.

This changed in 1954, when Pan Am Airlines asked Rolex to help them create a watch that would help their pilots easily keep track of their home and local time. Rolex responded with the GMT-Master, a title they coined in reference to Greenwich Mean Time. The original Rolex GMT, reference 6542, was 38mm wide with a red-and-blue 24-hour bezel (indicating day (red) and night (blue) respectively)—a coloring that came to be called “Pepsi” by collectors. These original GMTs cost $240, now selling vintage for $12k and up.

What to Look for in a GMT Watch

Something to take notice of when you’re shopping for a GMT is that some have fixed 24-hour bezels while others have rotating bezels. The benefit of a fixed bezel is that, once you set the 24-hour hand, it will always be accurate no matter how much you jostle it. The benefit of a rotating bezel is that after setting the 24-hour hand with the bezel in the home position at zero, you can then rotate it in either direction to get an accurate time in a different time zone without ever having to reset the 24-hour hand. In short, a rotating bezel offers more flexibility while a fixed bezel offers more simplicity and stability.

Why You Should Trust Me

In addition to writing for Men’s Journal, I have been covering gear and style for outlets including The Wall Street Journal, Wired, Maxim, Gear Patrol, Playboy, and Fatherly for over a decade. I first started writing about watches because I was intimated by them. So, I used watch writing as a way to learn about the world of watchmaking and collecting.

Over the years, I've interviewed the best vintage watch dealers in the world, founders of watch magazines steeped in the world of collecting, and the designers and entrepreneurs behind many watch brands themselves—from the smallest micro brands to Swiss conglomerates. My biggest takeaway from these different voices of the watch world, is that anyone can be a watch collector. Because no matter your budget, the most important thing is knowing what you like and what makes you happy.

Some more from the 2024 Men's Journal Watch Guide

Related: Best Casio Watches of 2024 Are Functional and Affordable

Related: The Best Watches Under $1,000 Look Great for the Perfect Price

Related: Best Dive Watches of 2024 That Can Go the Distance

Related: Best Breitling Watches of 2024 for Men Who Love Chronographs

Related: Best Citizen Watches of 2024 for Men Who Value Technical Precision

Related: Best TAG Heuer Watches of 2024

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Our guides to the best modern GMT watches

Which leading brand has released the ultimate men’s travel watch? GMT watches offer a complication that enables you to follow a standard 12-hour format whilst simultaneously tracking an additional 24-hour format.

Multi Time Zone

Now that normality is beginning to resume, our imaginations stray to tropical destinations once more. Or maybe you frequently travel for work? Either way, it’s important to know which GMT watches are the best right now. They often feature traditional hour, minute and second hands alongside a GMT hand in a different colour – almost always with a triangular tip. The addition of rotating bezels will also allow for the tracking of up to three time zones in some designs.

GMT watches do have good water resistance and boast a sporty aesthetic. Although originally produced for commercial airline pilots to help orient them as they took off and landed, GMT watches have today proved themselves a popular addition to any luxury watch collection. True GMTs are classified as those watches that allow the wearer to adjust the main time and use it as local time. They can then use the 24-hour scale to track their home time. Caller GMT watches enable the wearer to adjust the 24-hour hand and are best suited to those who don’t travel all that frequently. With that, here’s a guide to the best GMT watches on the market right now, complete with a run-through of their best features.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial GMT watch

Omega may not automatically spring to mind when you think of GMT watches but that doesn’t mean the travel watches created by this Swiss brand aren’t some of the best on the market. The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial watch combines the brand’s dive watch heritage with a timepiece that can be enjoyed whether on vacation or travelling on business. Its black dial with triangular markers makes it an incredibly practical model for formal occasions too. A red arrow-tipped hand points to an inner 24-hour scale, surrounded by an outer minute track and a legible date window at 6 o’clock. Inside the watch’s 150-meter water-resistant case is also a Co-Axial movement capable of producing a 60-hour power reserve.

Rolex GMT Master II Ceramic 126710 “Pepsi”

The Rolex GMT Master II watch, although not the first travel watch, continues to prove its popularity as one of the most loved GMT watches of all time. The Pepsi coloured bezel separates daylight hours and night-time hours against a 24-hour track. This watch is fitted on a jubilee bracelet, however, the famous watchmaker has recently added an Oyster bracelet to its configuration. Hands down, the Rolex GMT Master II watch with a ceramic bezel and classic black dial is one of the best GMT watches on the market. The Calibre 3285 inside promises a 70-hour power reserve, plus the use of its independently adjustable hour hand paired with a rotating bezel allows for up to three timezones to be tracked at a time.

Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT “Peacock”

Nicknamed the “Peacock”, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT watch is limited to just 700 pieces worldwide, which makes the model even more highly sought after on the market. It’s a purist’s timepiece, with a stunning Zaratsu polished case that catches the light from multiple angles for a clean, crisp and light feel on the wrist. The calibre 9S86 makes this timepiece such a popular GMT watch, beating at 36,600 vibrations per hour and offering an independently set hour hand that won’t interfere with the performance of the movement whilst being adjusted. Style-wise, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 watch is modest and understated with its stunning peacock-blue dial, golden-coloured GMT hand and surrounding 40mm steel case.

Tudor Black Bay GMT

The Tudor Black Bay GMT is a tool watch on a three-link Oyster bracelet with an aluminium bezel executed in blue and red. Although sharing many characteristics with its more famous and more expensive sibling brand’s GMT watch - the Tudor Black Bay GMT watch comes at a much more affordable price and is powered by a COSC-certified movement capable of producing a 70-hour power reserve. The 41mm travel watch is crafted from stainless steel, features a black legible dial, and features a striking red GMT hand for easy tracking of a second time zone.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph

Although classified as a GMT watch thanks to its inner 24-hour track set against a black dial, the 46mm IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph is also a world timer watch, since it features the world cities around the bezel. It also offers chronograph hour and minute functions combined inside a sub-counter at 12 o’clock, balanced by a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. The feature-packed IWC GMT watch also features a date window at 3 o’clock, a flyback chronograph function for effortless measuring of elapsed timings and a 68-hour power reserve courtesy of the 89760 Calibre.

Breitling Avenger II GMT Watch

Perfect for travelling in style and comfort but also bursting with plenty of aviation spirit, the Breitling Avenger II GMT watch is clad in a steel and black outfit and features a striking red arrow-tipped GMT hand that works in coordination with a 24-hour scale on a bidirectional rotating steel bezel. This feature enables for a third time zone reading. The Breitling GMT watch is also water-resistant to 300 meters, features aviation-inspired stencil-type numerals for a technical look, and secures to the wrist with a rugged steel bracelet. It also offers a cambered sapphire crystal glass front with anti-glare properties for a clear view into the time at any given point of the day or night.

Longines Conquest GMT Watch

If quartz watches are your preference, the Longines Conquest GMT watch may be for you, since it is powered by a super-accurate VHP quartz movement. A silver carved dial adds a sense of depth to the design, especially when paired with its red-tipped GMT hand and red minute track. The 24-hour track in this GMT watch is featured around the flange whilst a 50-meter water-resistant steel case pairs with an anti-glare sapphire crystal glass front to maintain a dry internal environment. Of course, the stainless steel bracelet fitted to this GMT watch, along with its sturdy push-button folding clasp allows the watch to be worn to a more formal occasion in addition to travel.

Certina DS Podium GMT Watch

If you don’t want your wristwatch to look like an obvious travel watch, the Certina DS Podium model is a great option because it features the additional time zone in a 24-hour sub-counter at 10 o’clock. There’s also a chronograph minute and hours function combined at 2 o’clock, as well as a small second sub-dial at 6 o’clock, a date window, and large legible Arabic numerals and stick indexes representing the main time. For effortless measuring of speed based on distance or distance based on time travelled, you can utilize the watch’s tachymeter scale around the bezel also.

Bell and Ross GMT BR-01-93 Watch

The black ion-plated stainless steel case of this Bell & Ross GMT watch boasts the instantly recognisable “circle within a square” profile and features a legible black dial with large white luminous Arabic numerals and stick markers for the hands. Enhancing readability all the more is a striking red GMT hand and a very visible 24-hour scale. The watch is powered by a self-winding movement that provides a 42-hour power reserve whilst protected inside a 50-meter water-resistant case. To complete its aviation instrument panel look, the watch wraps around the wrist with a supple black BR embossed rubber strap.

Blancpain Villeret Reveil GMT watch

Blancpain watches from the Villeret watch collection are elegant and timeless, not to mention incredibly practical, especially when they come in the form of a GMT watch. In this Blancpain Villeret Reveil GMT watch, the wavey GMT hand is crafted from blued steel and points to a 24-hour scale inside a larger Roman numeral hour track for local time. in addition to this, there’s an additional time zone that can be read from a 12-hour sub-counter at 3 o’clock, as well as a date window at 6 o’clock and a power reserve indicator that displays the remaining energy level of the automatic Calibre 1240H sitting within.

Radiomir 1940 Chrono Monopulsante 8 Days GMT Oro Bianco

The Radiomir 1940 Chrono Monopulsante 8 Days GMT Oro Bianco model is a 45mm 18ct white gold travel watch for those who want a timepiece that not only reliably tracks additional time zones but also feels ultimately luxurious on the wrist. The watch’s black dial is adorned with central hour, minute and second hands, a GMT hand with a slender arrow tip, a 24-hour indicator, a power reserve indicator, and two chronograph counters. The GMT watch is completed on a classic-looking brown alligator leather strap which keeps the timepiece smart enough for timezone-hopping but comfortable enough to pair with different attire whilst on vacation.

Chopard L.U.C. GMT One Watch

The L.U.C GMT One watch from Chopard is incredibly easy to keep track of both local and home time. L.U.C watches are all performed and tested at the Maison’s Geneva and Fleurier workshops. This model in particular features a black galvanised dial and Super-LumiNova Arabic numeral hour markers and hands. The luxury GMT watch features a 24-hour scale around the edge separated into pale orange numerals to highlight the nighttime hours. The watch is finished on a traditional black leather strap, measures a 42mm diameter, comes integrated with 50-meter water resistance and is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement capable of a 60-hour power reserve.

Hamilton Jazzmaster GMT Automatic Watch

Last but not least, the Hamilton Jazzmaster GMT Auto watch is an affordable travel companion that features the world cities in a black and silver ring around the outside of the dial, as well as a visible blue GMT hand and a date window at 6 o’clock. Primed for travel, its classic aesthetic is optimised with a brown leather strap and cream contrast stitching down the sides. Powered by an automatic movement, this Hamilton GMT watch is topped with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal glass front and promises a 50-meter water resistance.

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The 15 Best GMT Travel Watches for Men

If you often travel to different countries, a GMT watch can be quite handy. Watches with Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) function can track two different time zones at once. However, not all timepieces with this feature are high-quality products, so you need to check the product’s durability and features.

Typically, it is best to opt for a watch with a stainless steel case with a sapphire crystal window for their extreme durability and scratch-resistance. Moreover, a watch with luminous hands and markers are also great choices because they allow you to see the time even in the dark. Added features like an alarm or a date function are also a plus.

To help narrow your search, here is a list of the best GMT travel watches for men.

Timex Allied Three GMT Watch

Founded in 1854, Timex is an American company widely known for manufacturing inexpensive, reliable, and durable watches.

The affordable Timex Allied Three has a sporty design, which is highlighted by an orange GMT hand and a sleek-looking stainless steel strap. This travel watch has a 43mm case with mineral glass crystal window, and it is powered by a quartz movement. Aside from a GMT function, its black dial also has a 12 and 24-hour time settings. Plus, it has a date window located at 3 o’clock. Furthermore, it features an Indiglo backlight technology, enabling you to read the time in low-light conditions. This quartz watch is also water-resistant to up to 100 meters or 330 feet, so you can wear it while you’re swimming and snorkeling but not for scuba diving.

Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster Nighthawk Watch

Based in Tokyo, Citizen is a Japanese company founded in 1918. This watch manufacturer is popular for producing reliable, well-built, and reasonably priced watches.

Powered by a Japanese quartz movement, the Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster Nighthawk is an excellent travel watch with a lot of advanced features. First, it has a 42mm stainless steel case with mineral glass crystal window, which is extremely durable. You’ll also notice that its black dial is quite busy due to its numerous functions. Aside from its GMT function or dual-time display, it also has a date window located at 3 o’clock and a pilot’s slide rule inner chapter ring. Also, it features luminous hands and markers, allowing you to see the time even in the dark. Finally, this Citizen watch is water-resistant to up to 200 meters or 660 feet. As such, it is suitable for various water activities but not for scuba diving.

Torgoen T9 Oriole GMT Watch

Torgoen is an American watch company founded by Benzi Rosenski in 1998. Since its inception, this company has been known for producing functional, well-designed, durable, and affordable timepieces for pilots.

Although quite affordable, the quality of the Torgoen T9 Oriole is not compromised. It features Swiss quartz Ronda movement that allows you to set the GMT hand to a different time zone. Aside from that, it has a high-grade stainless steel case with a mineral crystal glass window and screw-down stainless steel curved back. Its black dial has Arabic numerals hour markings and a date window located between 4 and 5 o’clock. Its hands and indices are also luminous, which is visible for eight hours in complete darkness. Also, this travel watch under $200 is water-resistant to up to 100 meters or 330 feet.

Bertucci A-2TR GMT Watch

Bertucci is a US-based company that aims to design versatile and reliable timepieces. All Bertucci watches are crafted with the finest materials, ensuring you that they are tough and durable.

Inspired by classic military watches , the Bertucci A-2TR has a rugged design. For its features, it has a reliable all-metal quartz movement. Aside from a GMT function, it also has an easy-to-read black dial with a date function at 4 o’clock. Plus, there is a military time format located at the inner rim of the dial. The hands and markers are also luminous, allowing you to read the time in complete darkness. Also, it is water-resistant to up to 200 meters or 660 feet. Best of all, it has a titanium Unibody™ case with hardened sapphire crystal window and a solid titanium unidirectional rotating ring, which is extremely durable.

St. Moritz Momentum Vortech GMT Watch

Located in Canada, St. Moritz Watch Corp. designs and assembles high-quality sports watches under the Momentum® brand. Instead of following fads, this company focuses on crafting timepieces that are timeless, functional, and high-quality.

With its rugged design, the St. Moritz Momentum Vortech is an ideal travel watch for adventurous people. It features a GMT function that allows you to track a second time zone. Another great feature of this product is its alarm function, which uses ceramic resonator to wake you up from your sleep. For its other features, it has a 44mm titanium case with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal window. There’s also a date function located between 4 and 5 o’clock. Also, this titanium watch is water-resistant to up to 100 meters or 330 feet, so you can wear it in the shower or take it swimming.

Nixon Diplomat SS GMT Watch

Founded in 1998, Nixon is a US-based company that designs and markets consumer electronics, jewelry, and apparel. Nixon products are intended for those who love surfing and snow, so most Nixon watches have a rugged and sporty design.

The Nixon Diplomat SS sports an all-black exterior that can effortlessly transition from work to play. It has a 46mm stainless steel housing with a mineral glass crystal window. It also features Swiss movement with GMT function that allows you to tell the time of two different time zones at once. Plus, this all-black watch has a date window located at 6 o’clock. Aside from that, it is also water-resistant to up to 200 meters or 660 feet.

Luminox SXC PC Carbon GMT Watch

Widely known for building tough military dive watches , Luminox is a US-based company founded by Barry Cohen in 1989. All Luminox watches are crafted using the finest tradition and precision of Swiss watchmaking, resulting in durable, reliable, and high-performance watches.

The Luminox SXC PC Carbon is a rugged-looking watch perfect for adventurous travelers. This watch boasts a reliable quartz movement, a well-made rubber strap with buckle closure, and a carbon fiber case with mineral glass crystal window. Aside from its GMT function, it also has a date window located at 3 o’clock. Plus, its hands are luminous, allowing you to read the time even in low-light conditions. Lastly, it is water-resistant to up to 200 meters or 660 feet.

Orient Polaris GMT Watch

Headquartered in Japan, Orient was founded by Shogoro Yoshida in 1950. Today, this Japanese watch brand is owned by Seiko Epson. It offers timepieces that are made from the finest materials and world-class craftsmanship, ensuring you that its products are of high quality.

The Orient Polaris may appear simple to the naked eye, but it is highly detailed at a closer glance. Plus, it can display two sets of time at once, thanks to its fourth GMT hand. Moreover, it is powered by Orient’s caliber 40P51 movement that is not only automatic but can be hand-wound as well.

This elegant Japanese watch has a black dial with silver-toned hands and indices. There’s also a 24-hour scale in the outer rim and a date window at 3 o’clock. Also, it has a 42mm stainless steel case with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass window. Lastly, it is water-resistant to up to 50 meters or 165 feet, so it is only suitable for short periods of swimming.

Seiko SUN065 Padi Kinetic GMT Watch

Founded in 1881 by Kintaro Hattori, Seiko is a Japanese company well-recognized for manufacturing affordable yet high-quality watches.

Aside from being an excellent diver’s watch, the Seiko SUN065 Padi Kinetic also offers features that make it one of the best GMT travel watches available on the market. For one, it is powered by light energy, and it has a six-month power reserve once fully charged. Moreover, this watch is also durable, thanks to its 47.5mm stainless steel case and sapphire crystal window. Plus, its deep blue dial has luminous hands and markers, so you’ll be able to read the time even in low-light conditions. Also, this timepiece can track a second time zone due to its fourth GMT hand. There’s also a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock. Finally, this Seiko watch is water-resistant to up to 200 meters or 660 feet.

Revue Thommen GMT Watch

Revue Thommen is a timepiece company based in Switzerland founded by Gedeon Thommen in 1853. This company is known for producing stylish, functional, and high-quality watches.

Powered by a Swiss automatic movement, the Revue Thommen GMT watch is an elegant-looking product packed with advanced features. It has a 42mm polished stainless steel case with a sapphire crystal window and a black bidirectional rotating bezel. Plus, its black dial has luminescent hands and hour markers, enabling you to see the time even in complete darkness.

Aside from a GMT function, this Swiss watch also has a magnified date window located at 3 o’clock. Also, it is water-resistant to up to 300 meters or 984 feet.

TAG Heuer Formula 1 GMT Watch

Founded in 1860 by Edouard Heuer, TAG Heuer is a Swiss company that designs, manufactures, and markets luxury watches and fashion accessories. All timepieces from this company are crafted with premium materials and topnotch craftsmanship, resulting in stylish and high-quality watches built to last.

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 is the perfect accessory you can wear if you want to travel in style. This is thanks to its 41mm stainless steel case with a fixed black and blue bezel that gives the watch an elegant look. Aside from that, this travel watch also has a lot of great features. First, it has a GMT function, which is highlighted by a blue arrow for effortless readability. It also has a date function located at 3 o’clock. Its black dial also has luminous hands and markers, providing visibility even in complete darkness. Plus, you can wear this Tag Heuer watch in wet environments because it is water-resistant to up to 200 meters or 660 feet.

Porsche Design Worldtimer GMT Watch

Based in Germany, Porsche Design offers various kinds of products, including bags, eyewear, accessories, and timepieces. All Porsche Design watches offers a perfect balance between design and function, so these timepieces are stylish, functional, and durable.

The Porsche Design Worldtimer has a black titanium case and rubber strap, making it look sleek and sophisticated. The case also has a sapphire crystal window, which is scratch-resistant. Aside from a GMT function, its black dial also has 12 and 24-hour time settings. Plus, its hands and markers are luminous, so you’ll be able to see the time at even in the dark. Also, it is water-resistant to up to 100 meters. Finally, this travel watch is powered by a Swiss automatic self-winding movement.

You may also like these stylish Nomos watches from our list. Don’t miss them.

Breitling Avenger II GMT Watch

Breitling is a luxury watch brand founded by Leon Breitling in 1884. This brand is famous for designing precision-made chronometers for aviators. Moreover, Breitling watches are designed to withstand intensive use, so you’re guaranteed that these timepieces are reliable and durable.

Aside from its sophisticated design, the Breitling Avenger II is also functional. Unlike most GMT watches that can display two time zones, this Swiss watch can track three time zones. This capability is due to its 24-hour marking around the outer rim of the dial and the 24-hour marking around its bidirectional rotating bezel. In addition to that, this product is also extremely durable, thanks to its 43mm stainless steel case with sapphire crystal window. Also, it is water-resistant to up to 300 meters or 1,000 feet. Plus, its black dial has luminous hands and markers. Lastly, it features a date window at 3 o’clock, and it is powered by a self-winding automatic chronometer movement.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT Watch

Founded by Louis Brandt in 1848, Omega is a Swiss watch manufacturer widely known for its high-quality watches with innovative designs. Omega watches have gained global recognition not only due to their elegant style but their timekeeping accuracy as well.

The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean is an excellent dive watch because it is water-resistant to up to 2,000 feet. But, that’s not all. This elegant-looking timepiece can also track two time zones at once, thanks to its fourth GMT hand. Aside from those features, this Omega watch also has a date function at the 3 o’clock position. Also, it has a 43.5mm stainless steel case with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal window. Best of all, it has a self-winding movement that is good for a lifetime of usage, so you don’t need to change batteries or hand-wind it.

Rolex GMT Master II Batman Watch

Rolex is a manufacturer of luxury Swiss watches. It was founded by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis in 1905. Today, Rolex watches are popular all over the world for their superior quality and impeccable design.

With its iconic style, the Rolex GMT Master II Batman has become one of the most significant watches of all time. This timepiece was originally designed for pilots, but its peerless functionality and recognizable aesthetics has attracted world travelers as well. The reason is that it can show the time in two different time zones at once. This elegant-looking watch is also built to last, thanks to its stainless steel case with Cerachrom bezel and sapphire crystal window. Plus, its hands and markers are luminous. There’s also a date function positioned at 3 o’clock. Also, it is water-resistant to up to 100 meters or 330 feet, and it has self-winding automatic movement.

The Best GMT Watches We Recommend Purchasing This Year

Updated: July 7, 2024

Whether it’s to track a second time zone, a love of aviation history, or simply the aesthetics of a fourth hand, most collectors consider acquiring a GMT watch at least once. However, finding the best GMT watch that fits your style and budget can be difficult. Trust me, I’ve been reviewing watches professionally since 2016 and in that time I’ve tested GMTs that were either too derivative of other classic designs or overdesigned to the point of being needlessly complex and visually clunky. But what I have noticed most is that many of the watches in this category struggle to execute two very specific facets of GMTs: price and wearability. That’s why I’ve created this comprehensive breakdown of my favorite GMT watches that I’ve tested and reviewed to date.

Seiko 5 GMT Watch (SSK005)

I have been lackluster on many of the Seiko 5 changes that have occurred over the past several years. But the release of the Seiko 5 GMT in 2022 pleasantly surprised us. Building on the format of the iconic Seiko SKX case, the Seiko 5 GMT features a somewhat asymmetrical case shape with the crown position at 4 o’clock. At 42.5mm and 46mm lug to lug, the specs may appear on the larger side (especially compared to some of the other watches we’re discussing), but the case design itself allows the Seiko 5 GMT to wear much smaller than the dimensions on paper would lead you to believe.

Seiko specifically created the 4R34 movement for this watch release, and while these initial offerings included three dial options, we should expect to see more dial colors over time. For now, the orange, black, and blue dials certainly cover many bases, though, and most people should be able to find a model they enjoy.

I’ve spent an extensive amount of time with the original SKX007 (as well as the previous generation 7002) and I found in my personal time with the Seiko 5 GMT that the watch is just as rugged and reliable as the previous iterations. Some may feel that the reduced water resistance of 100m (down from 200m) and the lack of a screw-down crown may be cons to the watch. However, I felt no difference in the reliability and dependability of the timepiece’s construction while I tested it.

In terms of this price point there aren’t many competitors except the Steinhart Ocean 39 GMT (the next watch in our discussion), which will give you more of a classic dive watch design rather than this unique Seiko design DNA. You could also consider the Phoibos Wave Master GMT . It hits a lot of similar key features of the Seiko 5 GMT but while also being smaller in diameter at 39.5mm, which is great if the Seiko’s 42.5mm diameter may be too large for your wrist size.

The Seiko 5 GMT would be an excellent choice for someone at this price point who was looking for a more sporty GMT watch that also had a slightly vintage/retro vibe to it (being heavily influenced by the SKX case, the design of that case is rooted Seiko dive watches from the 80s).

Want to read more? Check out our hands-on Seiko 5 GMT review ! You can also compare pricing between the Amazon listing and the official Seiko USA website to find the best deal.

Steinhart Ocean 39 GMT

Based in Germany, Steinhart has earned its place in many watch collectors’ hearts as a well-built, reliable, and affordable timepiece provider. Steinhart assembled their timepieces from high-quality Swiss-made parts while applying their keen eye and craftsmanship to ensure that all watches feature a tight fit and finish. Of all the models they offer, the Ocean 39 GMT is one of the most popular.

The Steinhart Ocean 39 collection is a core offering from the brand. While originally featuring classic designs of standard 3 handers for many years, in 2018 the brand released the Steinhart Ocean 39 GMT. Quite simply, in the whole catalog of Ocean 39 pieces, it simply swaps in a mechanical GMT movement and changes the dive bezel out for a 24 hour bezel insert.

The watch presents itself as another (amongst many) entry into the wide world of Rolex GMT Master homages. What sets this watch apart is the lengths Steinhart goes to ensure their legacy for high-quality construction carries through to the final product. This watch would be ideal for someone who wanted something relatively under the radar and well-built that featured the classic black dial Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi bezel look (initially created for Pan Am pilots in the mid-1950s). It’s even available with some ceramic bezel options.

At a very wearable 39mm in diameter, 47mm lug to lug, and 13mm in thickness, the Steinhart presents itself as an ideal option for someone with a small to medium size wrist like myself. This is as opposed to other GMT Master homages like the Invicta Prodiver GMT (40953) , which is much larger at 43mm, making it more suitable for larger wrists.

Powered by the ETA 2893 or the Sellita SW330, you can count on the time-honored reliability of both movements since they are equally well respected in the watch community (and feature the same specs). Plus, with 300m of water resistance, this is a sporty GMT that you can actually dive with – unlike the Q Timex GMT which features a similar Pepsi style dial and bezel design but is only rated to 50m of water resistance. One of the largest points of criticism that the Ocean 39 GMT (and most Steinhart pieces) receive is that it’s technically not an original design, it’s an homage. For some this is absolutely a con as some people would feel odd wearing a non-original design.

However, if you have no issue with homages then I can definitively state that after wearing countless homage and microbrand pieces that attempt to riff on the GMT Master design, no other brand comes as close to offering this level of quality for the price.

You can learn more from our full, hands-on review of the watch . Plus, you also have multiple buying options if you’re interesting in picking up this piece. You can check the official Steinhart website or you can also purchase through the trusted online retailer Gnomon Watches .

Sangin Professional

A collection of members from the enlisted forces and special operations community formed Sangin Instruments. The goal was to create purpose-driven, high-quality timepieces that represented what they felt was special about their unique journeys through the armed forces. But more importantly, they wanted to offer those watches to those who also found their journeys while enlisted.

Outside of the symbolism of the brand’s impetus and crafting ethos, the timepieces at their core feature engineering that allows them to be long-lasting and rugged – these watches are intended to function reliably in the field and real-world situations.

As such, the intended function of each timepiece influences its form – such is the case with the Sangin Professional GMT watch. Originally designed as a testing platform for another release (the Kinetic II), the Sangin Professional features a more streamline design than its future iteration. As such, this would be an excellent fit for anyone who wanted a timepiece with the robust reliability you can expect from Sangin but also something that wouldn’t necessarily look too “tactical” and out of place in an office or boardroom setting.

The Swiss Ronda 515.24H movement is a highly regarded competitor to the other comparable Swiss quartz GMT movements. The movement utilizes the well-known Ronda 515 movement as a base and adds a GMT complication to the base movement. As such, it is a reliable GMT because it’s quartz-powered, meaning it uses a battery and will, more often than not, be more accurate than mechanical movements.

I was able to put the Sangin Professional through its paces on a combination of non-strenuous activities (like working on my laptop) and outdoor activities like hiking in brutal heat. What struck me most was just how ergonomically the watch sat on my wrist while also feeling incredibly durable (and highly legible). A lot of this is due to the watch’s dimensions. The quartz movement allows the watch to stay relatively thin at 12mm while the 43.5mm diameter and 49mm lug to lug measurements occupied enough of my 6.75 inch wrist to feel secure.

After spending time with the Professional and really getting to know the brand and their following, one of the more interesting cons that I would like to share is simply around availability. These Sangin models sell out quite fast, but it’s understandable as to why. They have a fervent following due to their ties to enlisted forces as well as the incredibly high build quality they are known for. So if there is a Sangin model or generation that you like, I would highly encourage you to make sure you stay on top of the releases so you are able to snag one.

If you’re looking for something that wears similarly but features a more tactical design, you could always look to this watch’s successor, the Kinetic II . Or if you perhaps enjoy some of the bold dial elements but would prefer something automatic, I would highly encourage you to explore the Gavox Avidiver II GMT , a dual crown, compressor style dive watch with a GMT complication.

A brand that actually has timepieces on the wrists of enlisted soldiers, an incredible build quality to endure whatever is thrown at it, and the ability to be both incredibly well-built but balanced on the wrist are why I would highly recommend this GMT. If you’re interested in learning more and potentially picking one of these timepieces up for yourself, the official Sangin website is the best place to do so.

Glycine Airman No.1

Modern Glycine is a brand currently in an odd spot. Their origins start in Switzerland back in 1914. While the company’s original offerings were more geared toward jewelry-focused horology, they became synonymous with function-driven Pilot watches in the 1950s. No other watch embodies this more than the Glycine Airman No.1 GMT watch.

At 36mm in diameter and 44mm lug to lug, the wearing experience of the first Airman release is preserved very well in the modern iteration of the watch. While testing the watch, it took me some time to adjust to the size of the dial as it is quite small, which can impact dial legibility. Plus the dial is also just a bit too busy given the size – between the hour, minute, seconds, and GMT hands as well as the interior seconds track and the GMT bezel, it’s very easy for your eye to get lost when trying to read the time (which is probably the biggest con of this watch).But after a day or so of wearing it, my eyes were able to adjust. However, if you prefer something larger and more legible at first glance, that’s something to be aware of with this model.

I also found that the watch’s dimensions give it a slight sense of being visually lug-heavy while on my wrist, but that helps to balance and draw focus towards the dial, which as I mentioned can use all the help it can get in terms of being more legible. What’s interesting is that these attributes which I found to be hurting legibility while testing the watch are also exactly what makes the Glycine Airman No.1 so special. It is most likely the most faithfully reproduced vintage reissue timepiece available today. It is nearly identical to its original design, which can be very difficult to find these days as brands are always trying to modernize their re-issues in some way. I own and have worn many vintage timepieces and having this modern Airman No.1 on my wrist actually did feel like a vintage timepiece that’s benefited from the reliability of modern manufacturing practices.

However, if you like the 24 hour dial and overall dial elements of the Glycine Airman No.1 but would prefer something with a bit less of a vintage design that was also simply larger (and more legible), I would highly encourage you to explore the Alpina Startimer Pilot Quartz Worldtimer (it’s 41mm in diameter, a whole 5mm larger than the Airman No.1).

Many credit the Invicta Watch Group’s acquisition of Glycine in 2016 with reviving the brand. However, this point in the brand’s history is a mystery to watch enthusiasts. Glycine models are still available, but there is little to virtually no marketing or outreach for the brand. This brand silence has led many to speculate whether the brand plans to remain active or explore other avenues.

Regardless, the Glycine Airman No.1 is a fantastic GMT watch option for anyone looking for a more vintage watch-wearing experience with all the convenience and reliability of modern craftsmanship. If you’d like to learn more, please read our piece covering the first release and resurgence of the Glycine Airman models . You can also check the official Glycine store and Gnomon watches if you’re interesting in purchasing this piece.

Archimede Pilot 42 GMT

In 1924, German-based watchmaker Karl Ickler started to craft high-quality watch cases for the burgeoning German watch brand industry. While the original factory he operated out of was destroyed by Allied forces in 1947, Karl Ickler’s sons led a rebuilding effort, and the production of watch cases continued into the early 2000s.

Around that time, the company started experimenting with creating their own watch brand. Then, in 2003, they started Archimede watches. Very quickly, the brand began to gain recognition as a producer of high-quality and affordable German timepieces – especially Fliegers. While the brand offers several different types of Flieger models, the Archimede Pilot 42 GMT is the focus of our discussion here.

I first encountered this product during a watch fair where Archimede had a booth set up. This was honestly one of the few times in my life where I tried a watch on and immediately thought “I need to buy this.” I suppressed the urge and opted instead to borrow the watch for some time to test it and gather my thoughts. At 42mm in diameter and 51mm lug to lug, the watch may appear to wear large when looking at the specs, but the fantastic thinness of the case at 10.2mm curbs any top-heavy wearing experience one may expect. Instead, what occurs is a watch that covers an appropriate amount of surface area on your wrist to maximize legibility without feeling bulky. This wearing experience is what immediately drew me to the watch when I first tried it on. Personally for me, Flieger style watches aren’t a large draw, but this is the one Flieger that I constantly think about purchasing.

What’s most noteworthy about the Pilot GMT 42 and why it’s included in our list here is that it’s achieved something that seems relatively simple but I haven’t seen another brand execute as successfully as Archimede: naturally incorporating a GMT function on a historically accurate Flieger. Most other classic Flieger examples in this same size range like Laco Augsburg 42 and the Stowa Flieger versus 42 don’t have as naturally integrated GMT functions as the Archimede Pilot 42.

However, if you like the idea of an Aviation inspired dial design but maybe feel that the Archimede Pilot 42 is too vintage-inspired, you could look at the Laco Frankfurt GMT . It features an interior rotating 24 hour bezel, classic Flieger pilot hands and font, and a refreshed design that’s about 80% modern and 20% vintage. It also has a bit more color in the design, which is something that the Archimede Pilot 42 GMT is lacking. However the Laco Frankfurt GMT a bit more expensive at approximately $1900 versus the Archimede which ranges from $1200 – $1400.

As such, the wearing experience, relatively accessible price, and seamlessly designed GMT hand that still preserves that classic Flieger look make the Archimede Pilot 42 GMT an incredibly prospective purchase. You can learn more by reading our more in-depth, hands-on coverage of the Pilot 42 GMT . Plus, if you’re interested in purchasing the piece, you’ll find the official Archimede site to be the best place to do so.

Monta Atlas GMT Watch

St. Louis-based Monta Watches is a brand that has expertly honed its design language and main value propositions. Combining equal parts timeless design, horological history, and modern technology, Monta has dedicated itself to creating timepieces that are more than the sum of their parts – case in point: the Monta Atlas GMT Watch.

The presentation of the Monta Atlas is easily one of the cleanest, function-driven, and non-frills GMTs I’ve ever seen. The balance between the hands and the dial elements creates an incredibly legible timepiece. There aren’t any design attempts to make this feel like a nostalgic aviation-driven GMT, nor is the watch attempting to capture people’s attention. Its design ensures a comfortable fit on your wrist while confidently functioning. There is nothing for this watch to attempt to compensate for when quality and form are its guiding principles.

In terms of dimensions, the Atlas GMT features a 38.5mm diameter case, 47mm lug to lug measurement, and a case thickness of 10.2mm. The evolution of the Atlas GMT is very closely aligned with that of two other core Monta offerings, the Noble and the Triumph. All three watches are essentially built of the same case design, diameter, and lug to lug measurement. However, the Atlas GMT differs from these other two by being .05mm thicker (where the Noble and the Triumph are 9.7mm thick). This slight variance in thickness is due to the Monta Caliber M-23 GMT movement (essentially a Sellita 330-1), which requires extra gears and parts in order to accommodate the GMT watch hand and making the movement thicker. 

What I found most intriguing while I was wearing and testing the watch surprised me. In watch collection, the internet and social media is generally focused on getting you to zero in on dials. The dial is easily one of the best ways to visually merchandise and advertise a timepiece. However, while having the Atlas GMT on my wrist I realized in the first few moments that the dial was secondary to the bracelet. Nothing prepared me for how nicely finished the bracelet is. When I took the watch off and placed it on my desk or bedside table I would see how well articulated the links were as the watch sat as flat as possible when placed down. This degree of link articulation allowed the watch to conform so comfortably on my wrist that it was all I would really tell people about. The dial, GMT movement, and everything else took a backseat to the bracelet. As it should in my opinion.

The brand invested a lot of time and resources in ensuring that its unique bracelet achieved two things: it was as comfortable as possible and featured the absolute best fit and finish achievable. But what stands out the most about the Monta bracelet is that it’s incredibly visually nondescript. Only the wearer of the watch (and those in the know) would be aware of how special it was. But that’s the point with Monta. They command a higher price tag, but it’s also one of the rare instances where we will tell people it’s worth it. They aren’t trying to compete for people’s attention with flashy timepieces but to let the high-quality wearing experience speak for itself.

If you like the idea of a GMT watch like that Monta Atlas that doesn’t have a bezel but maybe aren’t too excited by the Monta Atlas’ design, it’s worth looking at the Farer Lander GMT , which presents itself as a similarly sized and more casual GMT then the Atlas. It also has a bit more personality since it’s available in colors like teal and red. That’s actually a con for the Atlas, its color options are limited to blue, silver, or gray, which are generally very standard and somewhat forgettable color options.

Be sure to read our review on the Monta Atlas if you’d like to learn more and be sure to visit the official Monta Watches site if you’re interested in buying this piece.

Monta Skyquest

Monta has 5 product collections available, and two of those feature GMTs. So, it’s safe to say that the brand likes watches that track multiple time zones. However, when we zero in on the details, the Skyquest is a very different timepiece from the previous Monta we discussed.

At 40.7mm in diameter, the Skyquest’s case is larger than the Atlas and may appear visually bulkier due to the bezel, but it is certainly not too large to be comfortable. This is especially true since the previous generation’s lug to lug measurement was 49mm and this current generation’s lug to lug is measuring at a very wearable 47.4mm.

Whenever I did quick wrist glances while wearing the watch to check the time I was always surprised by how strong the legibility was versus how small, and wearable the overall watch felt. That’s also regardless of how and where I wore the watch. For example I had it on over the weekend while playing with my son and then later in the week I had to wear it with more business casual clothes. The Monta Skyquest had the same wearability, legibility, and classic design to seamlessly complement whatever outfit I was wearing and whatever I was doing.

The extra size is designed to support extra function. The indices are bolder, the crown guard is more stout, and this timepiece features a rotating GMT bezel, which allows the user to track an additional time zone (up to three). Plus, like all Monta releases, the Skyquest features their incredible bracelet which is crafted for optimal comfort, usage, and functionality. What I had heard some other people mention is that it’s possible you may find the bezel width a bit too wide for the watch, which can impact dial visibility and legibility. 

I only experienced this once when I needed to pull my hoodie sleeve back to see the time and my eye immediately focused on the bezel as opposed to the dial, which caused a slight millisecond delay in dial legibility. However, after it only happened once, I never had it happen again because I had acclimated to the watch. But if the visual balance between the bezel and the dial is something you’ve historically struggled with, it’s worth keeping in mind when considering the Skyquest. What’s interesting though and worth noting is that the previous generation Skyquest bezel actually had a slightly smaller font. So the decision to make the font larger was a conscious one.

The Skyquest is Monta’s answer to those looking for more of a historically aviation-inspired GMT watch. Between the sizing, options for a very legible GMT bezel, and dial colors, this would be the ideal choice for someone who wanted to experience Monta’s dedication to quality and excellence but still with a timepiece that was reminiscent and familiar within the catalog of GMT watch designs.

Now if you like the look of the Skyquest but aren’t quite sold on the $2500 price tag, you could consider the Vaer G5 Meridian , a 39mm Pepsi bezel GMT with a very similar dial layout, hour hand, and minute hand as the Skyquest but with a slightly less distracting bezel size and a much lower price tag of $900. On the other side of the price spectrum, if you wanted to spend more and get a Pepsi bezel GMT from a legacy Swiss brand, you could always look at the Tudor Black Bay GMT. It features the iconic Tudor snowflake hands, a slightly larger case at 41mm, and a price tag of approximately $4500 (learn more on our Black Bay GMT Review ).

But what I’ll say is this. The Monta Skyquest for the price, is truly one of the most “one watch contender” pieces I’ve ever encountered. The price you pay for the quality you get and the timeless design that you get to enjoy is incredibly hard to beat.

If you’d like to research this timepiece further, please see our full review of the Skyquest and remember that the best place to purchase the Skyquest is directly from Monta .

Helpful GMT Watch Terminology To Know

A Caller GMT is a type of watch where the additional 24-hour hand can be moved independently from the other hands on the dial. This function is crucial to maintain the local time that the wearer is tracking with the traditional hour and minute hands.

Anyone needing to track a second time zone for work or personal reasons typically uses Caller GMT, regardless of location. So if your location is in New York (ET GMT-5) but you do business or have family in Zurich (CET GMT +1), which is 6 hours ahead (the point difference between GMT -5 and GMT +1 is 6 points), you should set the 24-hour hand six hours ahead of the local time hour hand.

Traveler GMT

Often called a “True” GMT watch, the Traveler GMT essentially utilizes the opposite practice from the Caller GMT to track dual time. You can set the hour hand independently from the minute hand.

This function exists because the wearer uses the timepiece as a travel watch and consistently changes time zones. In doing this, they need the ability to move the main hour hand to alter their local time on the fly. Typically, people set the additional 24-hour hand to their home time zone.

GMT Rotating Bezel

Some GMT watches will include a bidirectional rotating bezel with a 24-hour scale. This is a GMT bezel the wearer uses to track additional time zones on demand. The principle works like this – the GMT hand functions as the central reference point.

If we’re wearing a Traveler GMT watch and want to track time in the CET (GMT+1) time zone, we can use the GMT 24-hour bezel to make the necessary adjustment. Assuming our local time is on the East Coast (GMT-5), and we know that CET is 6 hours ahead of our home time, we need to move the bezel six clicks to the left. This action will align our local time hand with the CET time zone (GMT+1).

Co-Founder and Senior Editor

Kaz has been collecting watches since 2015, but he’s been fascinated by product design, the Collector’s psychology, and brand marketing his whole life. While sharing the same strong fondness for all things horologically-affordable as Mike (his TBWS partner in crime), Kaz’s collection niche is also focused on vintage Soviet watches as well as watches that feature a unique, but well-designed quirk or visual hook.

5 thoughts on “The Best GMT Watches We Recommend Purchasing This Year”

I have a Lum Tec Combat B45 GMT (caller style) and am fond of it. For the price, the finish and everything about it is quite nice. I am quite sure that I could run it over with my car and it would be just fine, which is why I bought it. Well kind of. I do not plan on running it over but I have absolutely not treated it nicely and it is just fine.

I propose a watch from a major brand, multiple time zones, easy to set hands, divers bezel and when there is almost no budget. Timex T45181. I travel almost every 2 weeks for work. I wanted that feeling of being connected to my home time zone that you discussed in a recent podcast. I’m wary of Amazon brands that disappear, or others that sound too good to be true. Unless that $500+ GMT watch comes with many giant boxes of diapers, it was not happening. The Casio multi time zone options didn’t seem to have easy to set hands. So I bought the Timex. I’m hoping it will be that unicorn of reliability, features, and feeling of being connected to my family at home. I actually plan on using the ability to time with the bezel often. Maybe if it’s successful after a few trips I will upgrade the watch band.

Hi Mike and Kaz, the GMT episode was great! In response to the call for feedback on some other budget friendly GMT options, I submit some that I own for consideration:

1. Citizen Nighthawk – a “traveler” GMT with a fun an unique GMT hand/display. 2. Seiko SNJ029 and related models – the “Arnie” and “Safarnie” can display a separate time in the digital display. 3. A less well known but longstanding microbrand, Bernhardt, has a couple of fun GMT options including the one that I own (with the green and silver bezel) the Corsair GMT (formerly known as the Globemaster).

Keep up the great work!!!

What about the Monta Atlas that slides right under your $2000 cap. From all accounts Monta is offering watches hitting way above their weight class.

VERY disappointing feature. Why are they ALL caller GMT’s. I would suggest that many people who like watches and travel frequently as I do really only want TRAVELLER GMT’s – reviewers don’t really appreciate why this is for a watch enthusiast and I’ll explain now – in ADDITION to the fact that just jumping the hour hand makes it super easy to change the time according to time zone forwards or back – we HATE to interfere with the minute hand because often it’s nicely set up so that it synchronizes perfectly with the second hand – ok that’s a geeky thing but i personally like the minute hand to sync accurately with the second hand and I really don’t want to touch it after it’s correctly set AND once I know how my performance behaves – I regulate mine to gain the ONLY thing I want to do is occasionally hack the seconds to let the real time catch up with the watch time – I might cross time zones 2-3 times in 1 month I don’t want pkay with the minute hand.

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6 of the Best Travel Watches Around Right Now

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Rolex Explorer II Read more

Bell & Ross BR03-93 GMT Read more

Breitling Chronomat UTC Read more

Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Black Read more

If nothing else, the last year or so has made foreign travel an adventure again, at least for those who enjoy navigating their way through vaccination regimes and test requirements. It feels long ago when instead the burning question was whether it’s cocktail hour at the destination yet.

For the well-prepared traveler, the answer is on your wrist, as one of the few really useful complications watchmakers offer is the ability to show two or more time zones at a glance. Simply put, a “complication” in watch parlance is any function on a timepiece other than showing the time, such as a stopwatch or moon-phase display. Of course, you can do it in your head or use a world-time app on your phone, but a GMT or worldtimer saves you the bother and looks considerably more stylish. 

However, as easy as it is for you to decipher, showing multiple time zones is a significant challenge for both the watchmakers and the designer, as there’s always a tradeoff between simplicity and utility. How do you want the second time zone to be set? Should it link to the date? Do the time zones need to be named? How do you make sure the “travel” time is sufficiently distinct from the “home” time? What about places with just 30-minute differences? 

Here is our edit of some of the best mechanical worldtimers you can get right now, from entry level to high-end. All should serve you well, wherever your travels—once they begin again in earnest—may take you.

The standard approach to a GMT watch is exemplified by the Explorer II from Rolex, which has a second hour in bright orange that runs on a 24-hour cycle: set this 24-hour hand for your second time zone, then read the hour off the bezel scale, and minutes as normal. 

The design is built entirely around the presence of the extra hand and the bezel, with the contrast between hour and GMT hands being a feature rather than a hindrance (whether that’s a good thing is a straightforward matter of taste).

It’s simple, effective, and, as it’s a Rolex, bomb-proof. And even if you’re not traveling across time zones, Rolex points out that it might be useful for distinguishing day from night, should you emerge from a storm in an Arctic high summer.

This new version retains the signature 42mm sizing (want a larger case? Look to the brand's rugged 43mm Sea-Dweller and 44mm Deepsea). Inside is the in-house caliber 3285 power plant, new in the Explorer II, and the same currently found in the GMT-Master II. 

The really good news is this 3285 automatic movement—powered by the natural movement of the body as you wear it—packs in the best that Rolex currently offers: Chronergy escapement, 70 hours of power reserve, blue Parachrom balance spring and Paraflex shock absorbers. What does all this mean? A much more accurate, efficient, and robust piece that keeps running much longer after you've stopped wearing it.

There is currently no way to purchase a Rolex online. You will need to use Rolex's dealer locator that we've linked to below. This page has the model information you'll want to share with a dealer.

The same solution seen in the Rolex is behind Bell & Ross’s BR03-93 GMT, but the design makes the GMT more subservient to the watch design, obviously derived from the modular format of cockpit instruments, an aviation-inspired look that Bell & Ross has come to dominate over its 30-year history. 

One difference here is that the bezel can be turned, giving the watch more flexibility in terms of the extra time zone (the bezel is rotated however many hours difference between home time and the third zone to see the time in that destination without having to set the watch). Some will welcome that, others will see it as a complication too far, but it’s a smart watch that delivers a design presence that Rolex doesn’t look for. Speaking of which, the popular colorways of red and black—the "Coke" look as opposed to the red and blue "Pepsi" style—will justifiably draw attention.

The sturdy 42mm watch also has 100-meter water resistance, a 42-hour power reserve, curved anti-reflective sapphire crystal, and a small, subtle rounded date window towards the 4:30 position. Yes, you get a black calfskin leather strap, but we prefer this ultra-resilient synthetic fabric option.

Breitling’s Chronomat UTC offers a brutally effective, if not especially subtle, solution to the demand for worldtimer watches: fit a completely separate mini, quartz-powered watch into the strap . 

It helps that the Chronomat is a hefty piece of kit to begin with—44mm by 14.45mm, so the extra bulk shouldn’t be an issue. The mechanical movement has 70 hours of power reserve, which is the length of time it continues to tick once you have removed the Chronomat from your wrist. It's also water-resistant up to 200 meters.

The “UTC" name references Coordinated Universal Time, or UTC , the primary time standard by which the world regulates clocks and time and is not adjusted for daylight saving, making it effectively a successor to Greenwich Mean Time, or GMT, which is where worldtimers derive their alternative moniker from.

The Chronomat was inspired by the Frecce Tricolori watch that Breitling created for the Italian Air Force’s aerobatic fleet back in 1983, and is very much an all-purpose sports watch, which explains why the second time zone function was incorporated into the strap and not the watch itself.

There’s an alternative solution that can be seen in Chopard’s latest travel watch, the L.U.C Time Traveler One Black, which is to show time everywhere in the world at once, via an arrangement of counter-rotating discs on the edge of the dial. 

Amazingly, it’s almost suspiciously easy to read—the number below the city is the time there—but it needs a sensitive designer to manage the hierarchy of information delivered. Going monotone, as Chopard’s watch shows, is a beautifully effective way of doing just that. 

It's actually based on the Time Traveler One launched back in 2016, but now with an added dose of modernity thanks to that monochrome color palette that extends to the 42mm ceramised titanium case (which has a hardness of 700 Vickers when 316L stainless steel has a hardness of 150 to 200 Vickers). On closer inspection, it's not black but myriad subtle shades of gray. This is the secret to the watch's legibility. 

One the outside of the dial is a city disc, marked with 24 locations around the globe. The crown at 4 o’clock lets the user rotate this city disc. When the chosen city for the local time is set at the 12 o’clock position, you can determine the prevailing hour in all of those 24 locations simultaneously.

TAG Heuer has just dropped three new 2022 Autavia models comprising two new chronograph models and this, a three-hand GMT model—a first for TAG's Autavia collection to mark the line's 60th year.

Fitted with an automatic movement that will keep running up to 50 hours after you've taken the watch off, the piece focuses on simplicity and legibility: numerals and hands coated with glow-in-the-dark Super-LumiNova on an uncluttered blue dial contained in a 42mm steel case that's water-resistant to 100 meters. 

The addition of easily interchangeable straps is another boon, with traditional stainless-steel or  leather straps as well as on-trend woven NATO bands, too.

Not all globe-trotting GMT watches cost the Earth. Christopher Ward's C63 Sealander GMT has a pleasingly classic style yet costs a fraction of the other pieces here. You get a round stainless steel 39mm case secure to 150 meters, a power reserve that extends to 56 hours, and this piece is the first from the brand to use its new automatic movement that not only adds the display of a second time zone (indicated by the large orange hand), but also allows for a slightly more precise GMT setting than the previous version. 

It is available in black, white, green or blue polished lacquer dials, boasts an anti-shock system and is compatible with a range quick-change straps that includes this options made from recycled ocean plastic.

In the past, a criticism levied at Christopher Ward has been a tendency to add unnecessary information and clutter to its dials, as it did with its 2014 C900 Worldtimer, but here there are no such issues. It's smart and simple. 

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The Difference Between Office GMT And Traveller’s GMT Watches

An identical display, but different ways to use them into the wild..

The world of watches is full of complications. I know, the name can be somewhat deceptive since the idea behind a complication is to bring the user something practical… well, most of the time, at least. Dozens of functions can be added to a watch, but few are as practical in real life as the GMT or dual time complication. A true blue-collar complication, on the same level as the chronograph or the diving bezel (something that can’t be said about an equation of time), there isn’t, however, just one type of GMT watch . To simplify, we can break up the GMT category into two variants: the true or traveller’s GMT and the office or caller GMT. Today, we take a closer look at the complication, so you know exactly what to expect when looking for your next GMT watch.

What is a GMT watch?

The creation of the first GMT watches resulted from a shift in society. Following WWII and the advent of commercial and intercontinental flights, mankind started to travel more frequently. This meant that people changed time zones more regularly, and pilots and travellers had to keep track of time at home and in their current location.

The creation of the first GMT watch is often credited to a small brand named Glycine. Its 1953 Airman watch was capable of tracking two 24-hour time zones at once, thanks to a 24-hour rotating bezel and a dial calibrated to display the time on a 24-hour basis. However, it was Rolex that popularised the concept of the GMT watch with its GMT-Master. Released in 1954 and conceived for Pan Am pilots, this watch defined the genre and is still a blueprint for the category. It combined a traditional 12-hour display of local time, a 24-hour scale indicated by an arrow-tipped hand (not independent back then) and a two-tone rotating bezel with a 24-hour scale, enabling the wearer to display the time in other zones. And with it, the GMT watch became an essential tool for travellers.

The concept of the GMT watch is simple. It might rely on different displays, but the result is almost always the same (we’re not including the world time function here). Whether it uses a 24-hour central hand, a sub-dial with a dual time function or an aperture-based display, the idea is to have a classic 12-hour display for the local time and an additional 24-hour function to indicate home or abroad time (or a 12-hour-based display, which is linked to a day-night indicator). You can add to that a rotating bezel, giving you a third time zone, but that’s the cherry on top of the cake. What matters is on the dial, and what matters even more, at least for today’s topic, is how to use and set these displays.

This leads us to the all-important difference between an office GMT watch and a traveller’s GMT. And before we delve deeper, look at the video below, which explains exactly how these two work. And the difference lies basically in the name the watch community has given them.

The office GMT watch

As its name indicates, the office GMT watch (also known as a caller GMT) is intended for business use. Most office GMTs have a central indication of the standard time and an additional time zone hand. The one function that can be set independently is the 24-hour-based hand. In short, it’s a watch to use when you’re in your home country and want to display the time in another area of the world, whether to track the time in one of your offices abroad or to check the time of your relatives living in a different country.

• What does it do? If you exclude the issue of adjusting the watch, an office GMT displays the standard time in the centre of the watch with hour and minute hands rotating around the dial on a traditional 12-hour basis. There is an extra 24-hour hand that displays an additional time zone – which can also be used as a day-night indicator if you link it to the local time hour hand.
• How to adjust an office GMT watch? Here comes the real differentiating factor. In a caller or office GMT watch, it is the 24-hour hand that can be adjusted independently in one-hour increments. In most cases, the first position of the crown is classic and used to wind the movement. The second position of the crown is the important one. Rotating the crown clockwise adjusts the GMT hand in one-hour jumps, yet only in a forward direction. As most GMT watches are equipped with a date, rotating the crown counterclockwise in the second position often adjusts the date function by instantaneous jumps. The third and last position of the crown is classic and sets the time. All hands (local hours, local minutes and 24-hour hand) move together.

• Using it in the office or at home? This is where an office GMT makes the most sense. The idea is to use this watch in your home country to display a time zone in a different area of the world. All you have to do is to pull the crown to the second position and adjust it to the desired time zone, which will allow you an intuitive display of the time abroad.
• Using an office GMT when travelling? This is where things get a bit more complex. Say you fly from Paris and land in New York, with a 6-hour time difference. If it’s 10 PM in Paris when you land, it’s 4 PM in New York. As your watch will still be displaying 10 PM, you have to undertake a two-step sequence. First, pull the crown to the third position to adjust the main (local) hands to 4 PM. Then, bring the crown back to the second position and adjust the 24-hour hand back to the 10 PM position, so it will display the time it is at home (Paris in this case).

Caller or office GMT complications are commonly found in entry-level watchmaking or watches equipped with outsourced movements (ETA 2893-2 or Sellita SW330-1). The reason is simple: it can be executed by adding a 24-hour hand without changing much of a 3-hand base movement. You’ll find this in watches like the Seiko 5 Sports Style GMT and  higher-end models like the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT .

• What are the flaws of an office GMT watch? As you’ve seen above, the 24-hour hand can only be adjusted in one direction (forwards), as the other rotation direction of the crown is used to adjust the date. Also, travelling with a watch of these characteristics isn’t as practical. If you travel with an office GMT, you need to adjust the hands by engaging the third position of the crown. This means you’ll engage the stop-seconds mechanism, and you’ll also have to adjust the minute hand… not the best if you’re the kind of person that loves to fine-tune your watch to the closest second.

The traveller’s GMT watch

The benefits of a traveller’s GMT watch are indicated in its name: it is a tool for frequent travellers who cross time zones and need to adjust their watches regularly. Most of these watches display the time centrally with local hours and minutes and feature an additional 24-hour hand in the centre. But here, it’s not this hand that can be adjusted independently, but the local hour hand… And when travelling, it makes a world of difference.

• What does it do? Basically, it does precisely the same as an office GMT watch, at least when you subtract the issue of adjustment from the equation. Central hands are used to indicate the local minutes and hours, with an additional 24-hour hand and a date (most of the time). The latter can indicate an additional time zone or as a day-night indicator if you’re not travelling.
• How to adjust a traveller’s GMT watch? In a true GMT watch, the local hour hand can be adjusted independently in one-hour increments, not the 24-hour hand. The first position of the crown is traditional and winds the movement. The difference with an office GMT lies in the second position of the crown. Here, you can adjust the local hour hand by one-hour increments, forwards and backwards. The third position of the crown is, however, classic and sets the time, with all three hands (local hours, local minutes and 24-hour hand) moving together.

• Using a traveller’s GMT watch when travelling? As its name suggests, a traveller’s GMT watch is made for travelling. In such conditions, it’s as user-friendly as it gets. Take our initial situation, travelling from Paris to New York with a 6-hour time difference, landing at 10 PM Paris or 4 PM NY time. When landing, you pull the crown to the second position and rotate it counterclockwise until the hour hand jumps back to the 4 o’clock position. And if you use this traveller’s GMT watch correctly, meaning that you use the GMT hand as a day-night indication, then the GMT hand will still be pointing at 10 PM, giving you the right time in Paris. And by doing that one-step sequence, you won’t disrupt the main time or activate the stop-seconds function. So the time will still be running smoothly. And best of all, the date moves according to local time in both directions.
• Using a traveller’s GMT watch at the office? Well, this is where the true GMT watch makes the least sense. In this case, if you want to keep the local time intact but have the GMT hand displaying a different time zone, you’ll have to use a two-step sequence (basically, the same process as an office GMT when travelling). This means pulling the crown to the third position, bringing the GMT hand to the position you need, switching back to the second position, and adjusting the local hour hand back to your local time.

The true or traveller’s GMT watch is mainly featured in higher-end watches with manufacture or in-house movements – think Rolex , Omega , Tudor , Grand Seiko, etc. Disconnecting the main hour hand from the rest of the movement so it can perform small increments requires more modifications if the watch is based on an existing 3-hand movement. Recently we’re seeing genuine efforts from accessible brands to introduce traveller’s GMT watches to the market with Longines’ Spirit Zulu Time or Mido’s Ocean Star GMT – the latter powered by a Powermatic 80 movement, meaning that Swatch Group is bringing the true GMT complication to its entry-level brands.

• What are the flaws of a traveller’s GMT watch? As seen above, using a GMT watch at home or the office isn’t the most practical solution. The whole point is to use them for travelling. Also, while being able to adjust the local hour hand backwards and forwards is extremely practical, it has a direct consequence on the date. You’ll need to use the one-hour increment function and advance the hour hand, so the date jumps accordingly.

Which is best? Traveller’s GMT or Office GMT?

I’ll first give you a politically correct answer. The best watch is the one that best does the job you need. If you’re using a GMT watch at home or in the office to display the time in another part of the world, then an office GMT timepiece will do the job perfectly. It also allows you to access the most affordable models. And yes, it is still usable when travelling, but keep in mind that an office GMT watch won’t be the most convenient. If you’re frequently travelling, a true or traveller’s GMT watch is a must-have. It allows you to adjust the watch to the local time zone in a highly practical and user-friendly way.

Now, a more subjective answer regarding the “which is best” question leads me to say that a traveller’s GMT watch is the best. It is mechanically more complex, it is more suited to the job of a GMT watch (yes, that is travelling, first and foremost), and there must be a reason why some of the best watchmakers in the industry have chosen it as their preferred solution. Do you think Rolex would use a traveller-style function on its GMT-Master II if it weren’t the best option available? Best of all, with efforts from brands to introduce it inside more accessible watches, it’s no longer an elite complication. I wouldn’t be surprised if the old ETA 2893 or SW330 architecture soon went out of fashion. And, in my opinion, it would be for the best.

7 responses

If looking at the history of GMT watches you might want to check out the 1925 Longines Zulu, referenced in Monochromes intro to the Spirit Zulu Time. Just do a web-search for “1925 Longines Zulu”, it’s the square one. This had a 25-hour hand in addition to the regular time and was created in the year of Rolex’s birth!

Longines had already made GMT pocket watches in 1908 and this was the progression.

Oops, 24-hour hand!

@Madder – you’re totally correct in pointing this Longines. But we still need to investigate a bit regarding this 1925 model, just to be sure of its existence and all the facts about it… So for the time being, the Glycine still retains the title of first modern GMT watch.

Thank you Brice.

Maybe just ask Longines. The CEO says they have uninterrupted records of every watch made for the last 140 years or so.

If they are coy about giving more info… well, like a Homeland Security officer told my sons at LAX, “I just look at people. If they look away, I look harder.”

Thank you Brice for your very informative article, I found it the best explanation of the difference between caller/office and traveler GMT so far, now it’s finally all clear to me (not owning neither type of watch, your detailed explanation of the crown functions was super helpful to understand the different benefits and disadvantages).

Informative and entertaining as always. In addition I would like to add that every enthusiast and or collector should have at least one GMT in rotation.

Do dual-time watches qualify as GMT?

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A Titanic Endeavour: the Nomadic Fior 555 GMT

Anthony Peacock

We all, of course, walk in the shadows of those who came before us – which is just one reason why watches – which measure the inexorable passage of time – mean so much to all of us. But it’s rare to go on a watch launch that feels as poignantly symbolic as that of the new Nomadic Fior 555 GMT , which took place recently in Belfast (the ‘555’ refers to part of the city’s geographical co-ordinates).

Specifically, the launch took place aboard the SS Nomadic: the boat after which the company is named. But this is no ordinary ship, as the Nomadic – now a museum piece in a dry dock – was better known as being the tender vessel to the Titanic, before then going on to become a troop carrier and floating restaurant.

The sinking of the Titanic took place more than 110 years ago, but it’s only been in the last few decades that it has been properly talked about, as before then it felt to many local people like a wound or a stain on Belfast’s history. While the loss of more than 1,500 lives will always remain a tragedy, that inexorable passage of time has delivered a new perspective on the story: celebrating the Titanic as a ground-breaking feat of engineering that ushered in a romantic era of glamorous and adventure-filled travel.

It's precisely this vibe that Peter McAuley wanted to tap into when he founded Nomadic just three years ago, in 2021. And the company has come a long way in that short space of time, releasing three families of watches: the Marai dive watch, the Turas sports watch, and now the Fior GMT: the one timepiece that Peter always wanted to make. That’s why he chose to launch it in a place that inspired his brand’s very existence, which resonates with history.

The Nomadic was actually designed by Thomas Andrews – who also designed Titanic – and it gave the arriving passengers a brief taste of the luxury they were to experience when they actually got on board ‘the ship of dreams’.

As Titanic was the largest cruise liner in the world at the time, many harbours – especially Cherbourg – were too small to accommodate it – which was why the tender ship, capable of ferrying up to 1000 people, was needed. It’s a dizzying thought that many of those people in whose shadows we walked at that launch would have had their last experience of solid ground as they stepped onto the Nomadic, oblivious to the fate that awaited them nearly halfway across the world.

So it’s a place that invites reflection on what’s really important in life, which is what made it the perfect venue to launch Nomadic’s new GMT: a genre that’s all about (nomadic) international travel, yet also about the constant attachment to homeland and family.

It was inspired by a story very close to home, illustrated in the promotional video that you can see below. The two ‘actors’ you see on location in the film are Nomadic’s master watchmaker Michael Rowan in Belfast, and his son Jonny, who lives in Melbourne, Australia.

While separated by distance, they always keep their GMT watches on each other’s home time. And this, essentially, is what the Fior – which means ‘true’ in Gaelic – is all about: a connection to your roots. For Peter, it’s simply a “dream come true”, as the GMT was a watch he has always wanted to make.

It's not just a nice story either, as the quality and finish of the actual watch – powered by a Sellita SW330-2 GMT movement – is impeccable, arguably the best yet from Nomadic. At 41mm it hits the sweet spot of size, sitting comfortably on most peoples’ wrists, and there’s a choice of four launch colours: red, green, black and yellow, or black and grey (plus a ‘prestige’ version with gold links on the bracelet). One thing that Nomadic has worked hard on is the lume, which is particularly impressive. The distinctive GMT hand is yellow: a leitmotif of Nomadic design, which echoes the bright yellow cranes of the Harland and Wolff shipbuilding company that built the Nomadic and Titanic.

It’s a nice touch, but it’s only when you come to Belfast that you really appreciate how much those cranes dominate the sky – they are one of the first things you see when you touch down at Belfast City airport. Like many design aspects of the Nomadic brand, it's something that makes complete sense once you see it for yourself.

And there are lots of stories that you only discover later, such as the fact that a Nomadic watch has actually already been to the Titanic wreck site, as part of a dive expedition. This is probably also the right time to mention that the latest Fior is water-resistant to 200 metres: all of the watches are pressure-tested at the surprisingly small but fully-equipped workshop in Belfast city centre.

Only a limited number of each colour will initially be made available, with pre-orders starting now in time for delivery in late November, before the watch joins the permanent collection – with more colours in the pipeline.

My personal favourite is the ‘crimson dawn’, which delivers a new take on the root beer theme, standing out quite distinctly from the others. But unsurprisingly for an Irish watch brand, the signature colour is green, so expect that to become the best seller.

At £1595, the Fior 555 is pitching itself firmly into a hotly-fought arena, price-wise. But Peter and his permanent team of just four people believe that they can carry it off, and their confidence and infectious passion is well-placed.

This is a very complete, elegant, and competent watch: one that doesn’t re-write the rule books or go off on an idiosyncratic tangent, but is all the better for that. Will people choose it over more established names? The level of quality is generally high across the board at this level, so it will all come down to whether or not people buy into the brand’s story and values.

In Nomadic’s case, they are clear, compelling, and coherently expressed – with the meaningful nod to heritage that every new brand needs. 

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