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The Monocle Travel Guide to Kyoto: The Monocle Travel Guide Series (Monocle Travel Guide, 27) Hardcover – December 6, 2017

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  • Part of series Monocle Travel Guide
  • Print length 148 pages
  • Language English
  • Publisher gestalten
  • Publication date December 6, 2017
  • Dimensions 5.51 x 0.39 x 8.27 inches
  • ISBN-10 9783899559248
  • ISBN-13 978-3899559248
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Product details

  • ASIN ‏ : ‎ 389955924X
  • Publisher ‏ : ‎ gestalten (December 6, 2017)
  • Language ‏ : ‎ English
  • Hardcover ‏ : ‎ 148 pages
  • ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 9783899559248
  • ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-3899559248
  • Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 12.2 ounces
  • Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 5.51 x 0.39 x 8.27 inches
  • #12 in Kyoto Travel Guides
  • #86 in General Japan Travel Guides
  • #157 in Travel Writing Reference

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The Monocle Travel Guide to Kyoto: The Monocle Travel Guide Series Hardcover – 6 Dec. 2017

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Kyoto may be full of hushed streets steeped in tradition and hidden institutions run by kimono-clad custodians but don t be fooled: there's more to this captivating city than timeworn teahouses and graceful geiko.

Japan's former capital has its own distinct identity, dialect and dishes, and beyond the Buddhist temples and Zen gardens you ll find a dynamic city that's constantly evolving.

We ll introduce you to the innovative chefs making waves in the kitchen and the workshops that have been crafting cooking knives for generations. We ll give you a rundown of the forward-thinking fashion retailers and reveal our favourite modernist architecture and mid- century monuments. Plus we ll take you to the backstreets where bartenders mix punchy cocktails, and old-fashioned kissaten fend off young baristas with aplomb. We ve also included the stories of local gardeners, ryokan operators and architects, who invite you through the hanging noren of this most enigmatic of cities. Slip off your shoes and step right in.

The magazine  Monocle  covers the world with its network of bureaus in New York, Toronto, Zurich, Hong Kong, Istanbul, Tokyo, and Singapore. It also employs more than 30 dedicated correspondents in cities from Bangkok to Bogotá, São Paolo to Stockholm as well as a team of on-the-road reporters based out of its headquarters in London. This team's deep understanding of cities and all they have to offer has now been compiled in The Monocle Travel Guide Series .

  • Part of series Monocle Travel Guide
  • Print length 148 pages
  • Language English
  • Publisher Die Gestalten Verlag
  • Publication date 6 Dec. 2017
  • Dimensions 14 x 1 x 21 cm
  • ISBN-10 9783899559248
  • ISBN-13 978-3899559248
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  • ASIN ‏ : ‎ 389955924X
  • Publisher ‏ : ‎ Die Gestalten Verlag; 1st edition (6 Dec. 2017)
  • Language ‏ : ‎ English
  • Hardcover ‏ : ‎ 148 pages
  • ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 9783899559248
  • ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-3899559248
  • Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 14 x 1 x 21 cm
  • 118 in Wine & Winemaking
  • 292 in Teaching & Learning Biographies
  • 634 in Food & Travel Writing

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The Monocle Travel Guide to Kyoto: The Monocle Travel Guide Series

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The Monocle Travel Guide to Kyoto: The Monocle Travel Guide Series Hardcover – Dec 6 2017

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  • Part of series Monocle Travel Guide
  • Print length 148 pages
  • Language English
  • Publisher gestalten
  • Publication date Dec 6 2017
  • Dimensions 14 x 1 x 21 cm
  • ISBN-10 9783899559248
  • ISBN-13 978-3899559248
  • See all details

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The Monocle Travel Guide to Kyoto: The Monocle Travel Guide Series

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The Monocle Travel Guide to Kyoto: The Monocle Travel Guide Series

Product details

  • ASIN ‏ : ‎ 389955924X
  • Publisher ‏ : ‎ gestalten (Dec 6 2017)
  • Language ‏ : ‎ English
  • Hardcover ‏ : ‎ 148 pages
  • ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 9783899559248
  • ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-3899559248
  • Item weight ‏ : ‎ 345 g
  • Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 14 x 1 x 21 cm
  • #12 in Kyoto Travel Guides
  • #8,943 in Arts & Photography (Books)

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the monocle travel guide to kyoto

Kyoto: The Monocle Travel Guide Series

Despite Kyoto’s obvious charms and exquisite hospitality it can take time – or a helping hand – to discover its true nature. This is where the Monocle Travel Guide to Kyoto comes in.

$25.00 Price incl. VAT

city guide English Monocle The Monocle Travel Guide Series Travel Authors: Tyler Brûlé, Andrew Tuck, Joe Pickard Release date: December 2017 Format: 14 × 21 cm Features: Full color, hardcover, stitched binding, 148 pages ISBN: 978-3-89955-924-8 The magazine Monocle covers the world with its network of bureaus in New York, Toronto, Zurich, Hong Kong, Istanbul, Tokyo, and Singapore. It also employs more than 30 dedicated correspondents—in cities from Bangkok to Bogotá, São Paolo to Stockholm—as well as a team of on-the-road reporters based out of its headquarters in London. This team’s deep understanding of cities and all they have to offer has now been compiled in The Monocle Travel Guide Series .

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city guide English Monocle The Monocle Travel Guide Series Travel Details Authors: Tyler Brûlé, Andrew Tuck, Joe Pickard Release date: December 2017 Format: 14 × 21 cm Features: Full color, hardcover, stitched binding, 148 pages ISBN: 978-3-89955-924-8 The magazine Monocle covers the world with its network of bureaus in New York, Toronto, Zurich, Hong Kong, Istanbul, Tokyo, and Singapore. It also employs more than 30 dedicated correspondents—in cities from Bangkok to Bogotá, São Paolo to Stockholm—as well as a team of on-the-road reporters based out of its headquarters in London. This team’s deep understanding of cities and all they have to offer has now been compiled in The Monocle Travel Guide Series .

the monocle travel guide to kyoto

The Monocle Travel Guide: Kyoto

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The monocle travel guide to kyoto: the monocle travel guide series (monocle travel guide, 27) - hardcover.

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9783899559248: The Monocle Travel Guide to Kyoto: The Monocle Travel Guide Series (Monocle Travel Guide, 27)

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  • Publisher gestalten
  • Publication date 2017
  • ISBN 10  389955924X
  • ISBN 13  9783899559248
  • Binding Hardcover
  • Number of pages 148
  • Editor Brule Tyler , Tuck Andrew

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Book Description Hardcover. Condition: new. Hardcover. Monocle reports from around the globe. As its editors and correspondents dart from city to city, they get to know the best places to rest their heads, stretch their limbs, and kick back with a contact in a hard-to-find cocktail bar. That information is now available in The Monocle Travel Guide Series: a line-up of titles that speaks to readers in an informed but informal way about everything from architecture to art, late-night bars to early-morning markets. Designed to be compact and collectible, these books go beyond the traditional tourist beats to make sure visitors get the best out of a city - no matter how short their stay. The guides are also discerning: they will not list a hundred places to eat, but they will focus on what is best for any occasion. The definitive travel guides that make you feel like a local wherever you go. Shipping may be from multiple locations in the US or from the UK, depending on stock availability. Seller Inventory # 9783899559248

Book Description Hardcover. Condition: New. Monocle reports from around the globe. As its Edited bys and correspondents dart from city to city, they get to know the best places to rest their heads, stretch their limbs, and kick back with a contact in a hard-to-find cocktail bar. That information is now available in The Monocle Travel Guide Series: a line-up of titles that speaks to readers in an informed but informal way about everything from architecture to art, late-night bars to early-morning markets. Designed to be compact and collectible, these books go beyond the traditional tourist beats to make sure visitors get the best out of a city - no matter how short their stay. The guides are also discerning: they will not list a hundred places to eat, but they will focus on what is best for any occasion. Seller Inventory # DADAX389955924X

The Monocle Travel Guide to Kyoto The Monocle Travel Guide Series

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A look into the Monocle Travel Guide Kyoto

A look into the Monocle Travel Guide Kyoto

Just received my Monocle Travel Guide Kyoto and just had to share it with you. I’m now a subscriber for three years of the Monocle magazine and it’s still a joy to find one of their thick envelopes in my mailbox. The shipping sure takes a while but at least this adds in some extra tension because you never really know when the new issue will arrive. The artwork and lettering are stunning and the selection of topics is ranging all over the world. Of course, that includes Japan as well. Be it a well-photographed story about new Japanese retail ideas or the latest in technology and politics.

Tyler Brûlé is the editor in chief of Monocle and before starting that new venture he was running the Wallpaper magazine. To be frank (and I’m always frank with you) I never even touched one of their issues. But maybe you are a reader or you may know their small city guides. Even if I’m not sure if that line was started with Tyler Brûlé still around, he took over the idea for his new venture. The Monocle Travel Guides published by the German Gestalten Verlag . I mostly buy directly from the publisher and did so with the Monocle Travel Guide Kyoto as well (the book are always in pristine condition).

Their countless releases in the Architecture, Interior, Photography, Design space are always a looker. And being a sucker for books myself, I own a couple of their releases.

Monocle Travel Guide Kyoto

They really release pure quality books, especially their 50€ tier ones are pretty impressive. With a different thickness of paper inside (used inside the marvelous Wonderwall publication, a must for everybody interested in Japanese interior design. Don’t worry. I will present it to you within the next couple of days).

Monocle Travel Guide Kyoto

I own a few Monocle city guides (even wanted to collect them all for a moment) and already went to a couple of cities equipped with them. Paris, Vienna, Lisbon, Rome, and Berlin.  I tried out a bunch of their suggestions and it was always a nice experience. Mostly enjoyed their suggestions for walking routes which is always a good idea for discovering a city.

Make sure to check my post about the Monocle Travel Guide to Tokyo as well. It’s really a neat one with some nice spots in their selection. Unfortunately, it wasn’t released yet on my last visit to Tokyo (yeah, been a while) but there definitely are a couple of spots I have to visit next time. Just thinking about that Whisky bar with over a thousand open bottles and Jazz records playing in the background makes me want to hop on the next plane.

A look into the Monocle Travel Guide Kyoto

This is not a conventional travel guide but with a very specific person in mind. One that likes to eat well, discover local stores which stand out with items of quality, enjoys Architecture and just likes to discover the beautiful places of a city. I just visited Lisbon back in April with the accompanying guide and tried out a bunch of their restaurant tips.

Most of them were a little “style over substance”. I didn’t regret trying them and always had a great time but the food itself wasn’t too spectacular. It was decent but I got the feeling that nice venues with great food but without special interior design had no chance to be in that guide.

A look into the Monocle Travel Guide Kyoto

Enjoy the Monocle Travel Guide Kyoto for what it is: A glimpse into the shiny, good-looking layer of Kyoto. And like the book itself their selection is always macthing in beauty.

A look into the Monocle Travel Guide Kyoto

I was wondering for quite some time what the color of the circle surrounding the number of the guide was supposed to imply. It just couldn’t be random. The colors show you the continent of the country. Kyoto and Tokyo have a green one. Mystery solved.

A look into the Monocle Travel Guide Kyoto

What are your experiences with travel guides and do you have some recommendations? Please share them, I always love buying some nice books about Japan. I’m currently working on getting the site really up to speed again and with my upcoming semester break things are looking good.

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The Monocle Travel Guide to Kyoto (The Monocle Travel Guide Series .27) (2018. 148 p. 21 cm) [Hardcover]

by Herausgegeben von Pickard, Joe / Brul&eacute / , Tyler / Tuck, Andrew

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§16§Despite Kyoto's obvious charms and exquisite hospitality it can take time - or a helping hand - to discover its true nature. This is where the Monocle Travel Guide to Kyoto comes in. Kyoto may be full of hushed streets steeped in tradition and hidden institutions run by kimono-clad custodians but don't be fooled: there's more to this captivating city than timeworn teahouses and graceful geiko. Japan's former capital has its own distinct identity, dialect and dishes, and beyond the Buddhist temples and Zen gardens you'll find a dynamic city that's constantly evolving.We'll introduce you to the innovative chefs making waves in the kitchen and the workshops that have been crafting cooking knives for generations. We'll give you a rundown of the forward-thinking fashion retailers and reveal our favourite modernist architecture and mid- century monuments. Plus we'll take you to the backstreets where bartenders mix punchy cocktails, and old-fashioned kissaten fend off young baristas with §16§ aplomb.We've also included the stories of local gardeners, ryokan operators and architects, who invite you through the hanging noren of this most enigmatic of cities. Slip off your shoes and step right in.The magazine Monocle covers the world with its network of bureaus in New York, Toronto, Zurich, Hong Kong, Istanbul, Tokyo, and Singapore. It also employs more than 30 dedicated correspondents-in cities from Bangkok to Bogotá, São Paolo to Stockholm-as well as a team of on-the-road reporters based out of its headquarters in London. This team's deep understanding of cities and all they have to offer has now been compiled in The Monocle Travel Guide Series.

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In Kyoto, Five Hotels to Add to Your Travel Wish List

The city’s newest crop of hotels — from a luxury retreat on a historic estate to a 10-room inn surrounded by forested mountains — were worth the wait.

A bedroom with two low beds with white sheets and a joined inverse trapezoidal wooden headboard with two built-in side tables with small lamps.

By John Wogan

The pandemic lockdown in Japan coincided with a flurry of new hotels, especially in Kyoto, where the Park Hyatt, Aman and Four Seasons were joined by a group of independent properties and the first Ace hotel in the archipelago. When the country finally reopened to foreign visitors in October 2022, tourists came flooding back to the city of 800-year-old temples and bamboo forests spoiled for choice of accommodations, at a range of prices. The number continues to grow: Next month, the wellness-focused Six Senses brand will open its first Japanese outpost in the city’s Higashiyama district, home to many of the main tourist sites. Here, a look at five of Kyoto’s newer hotels that are redefining the city’s hospitality scene.

Hotel the Mitsui Kyoto

Andre Fu, the interior designer behind hotels like the Upper House in Hong Kong and Villa La Coste in Aix-en-Provence, France, has infused his signature aesthetic (extravagantly refined, with warm woods and luxurious textures) within the confines of a particularly historic area of Kyoto. The 161-room Mitsui, opened in late 2020, sits across from Nijo Castle, an enormous 17th-century compound and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s in stark contrast to the hotel, whose only timeworn element is an imposing entrance gate — a traditional wood structure over 300 years old and a remnant of the days when the Mitsui family lived on the grounds. Once past the gate, you’ll find a glass-and-steel building, designed by the Japanese architect Akira Kuryu, and landscaping that’s meant to echo the original garden pathways of the Mitsui residence, planted with cherry trees and steppingstones that meander above a glassy pond. The four food and drink venues include the French-Japanese Toki, overseen by the chef Tetsuya Asano (previously of the Ritz Paris), and the Garden Bar, strategically positioned to capture seasonal views, like the spring cherry blossoms and blazing autumnal foliage, out of massive double windows. Rooms from about $1,360 a night.

Ace Hotel Kyoto

The youthful Ace hotel brand might seem like an odd fit in staid Kyoto. But this 213-room property, which opened in 2020, fits seamlessly into the city center thanks to a collaboration between the Japanese architect Kengo Kuma and the California-based design firm Commune. Kuma, who designed the Japan National Stadium (the centerpiece of the 2021 Tokyo Olympics), renovated the imposing 1920s-era, red brick Kyoto Central Telephone Office, while adding an industrial-looking building — sheathed in copper sulfide plating, cedar, glass and concrete — next door. Commune infused the guest rooms with Ace’s signature mix of bright colors and patterns: original dyed prints from the Japanese folk artist Samuro Yunoki sit alongside Tivoli radios, turntables and vintage records. The most popular part of the hotel, though, might be the street-level branch of Stumptown Coffee Roasters — the first in Japan. From about $300 a night.

Arashiyama House Mama

Like Kyoto’s dozens of temple gardens, this 10-room property offers an immediate sense of calm. Its entrance is so discreet, you could easily miss it. (Look for the flowing white cloth curtain with simple black signage, behind which is a garden path leading to a minimalist building made of wood, concrete and glass.) The hotel’s location informs the interior design: Thirty minutes west of central Kyoto, the Arashiyama district is defined by nature, with the Katsura River at its center, and filled with bamboo groves and surrounded by forested mountains. Guest rooms are simply furnished with beds, chairs and tables handmade by both Kyoto artisans and the Danish furniture maker Carl Hansen & Son, and each one has a soaking tub. Rooms from about $540 a night.

The Shinmonzen

The Gion district epitomizes Kyoto for many visitors, with its maze of narrow alleys and ryokans, traditional Japanese inns. It’s here, on a quiet side street among artists’ studios, antique shops and galleries, that the Shinmonzen opened in December 2021. Although it’s a new build, the aim was for the hotel to blend in with the surrounding structures. To accomplish this, the famed Japanese architect Tadao Ando created a wooden facade that replicates a machiya , one of the venerable townhouses found throughout Kyoto. There are only nine guest rooms, but they’re unusually spacious, and all have balconies with views of the Shirakawa River. Each one is an ode to Japanese interior elements, furnished with tatami mats, shoji (panels lined with rice paper) and cypress soaking tubs. And for dining, the chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, whose restaurant empire spans the world, devised a menu blending French, American and Asian influences, sourcing much of the produce from local farms. Rooms from about $1,500 a night.

Maana Kiyomizu

A three-suite hotel near the 16th-century Toyokuni Shrine, Maana Kiyomizu is the latest offering from Maana Homes, the small local hospitality group, which operates two other properties in the city. This one, opened in the winter of 2022, is located in Higashiyama, and is a complex of four machiya that also houses POJ Studio — a boutique that sells artisanal Japanese crafts and home goods. There’s also Kissa Kishin, the second branch of a popular Gion cafe, which serves coffee, matcha and pastries and acts as the unofficial social center for the property. The Japanese architects Uoya Shigenori and Takeshi Ikei renovated the suites to create a minimalist wabi-sabi ideal of city living, where handmade pottery from Shigaraki (a town famous for its ceramics) are the only decorative flourishes to be found. Rooms from about $560 a night.

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Taking the train in Japan - all you need to know

John Walton

Mar 28, 2024 • 11 min read

the monocle travel guide to kyoto

Find your way in Japan with our ultimate guide to rail travel © Chay_Tee / Shutterstock

You will fall passionately in love with trains in Japan .

Japanese people didn’t invent rail travel, but they arguably perfected it. Whether you’re on the newest shinkansen (bullet train) zooming across the country at 320km/h (199mph) or an elderly regional railcar, you can count on your train being scrupulously clean, safely operated, highly reliable, famously punctual and generally a joy to ride.

You can see almost the entire country by train, and with a wide variety of rail passes — including the iconic Japan Rail Pass — you can travel across Japan for less than US$50 per day, including the shinkansen.

Signs are in English even at the smallest stations, translation apps and devices are widely used for complicated questions, and staff are genuinely happy to help travelers.

Japan has an enormous number of train lines and kinds of train, but don’t be put off by the sheer volume: it’s surprisingly easy to navigate , even on your first trip, with your phone’s maps app and a sense of adventure.

A woman stands at a bank of electronic ticket machines. Above her head is a color-coded map showing train lines

There are different services on the Japanese train network

Trains run almost everywhere in Japan. The main backbone of the network, and the fastest, is the shinkansen. These bullet trains run from Hokkaidō  in the far north all the way to Tokyo Station , where you have to change for the shinkansen going to Nagoya , Kyoto , Osaka , Hiroshima and on to Kyushu. For travelers visiting Japan’s main sights , this will be the kind of train you take the most.

The next fastest are Limited Expess trains — “limited” as in “limited stops” — that run between cities and to rural areas on pre-shinkansen conventional lines (the non-high-speed ones). Many run through beautiful parts of Japan, so don’t count them out.

Local trains are the slowest and may even be as small as one single car. “Rapid” trains are fairly rare, and are essentially local trains that skip a few of the smaller stops.

Urban rail, commuter trains and subway lines are widespread in cities. These usually work very similarly to what you might be used to in your home country, although do watch out for limited-stop semi-expresses. The big picture transit maps can look a little intimidating, but most major cities now have a system of colors and station codes in place to help you navigate, and your phone's maps app is great for a quick idea of how to get from A to B.

Confident visitors outside major cities will love Joyful Trains, which are special tourist trains operated largely on weekends and holidays in rural areas. These might be renovated steam trains, or specially themed — JR East’s Koshino Shu’Kura is all about sake, including tastings, while the  JR Kyushu A Train is jazz-themed.

Japan’s train stations are destinations by themselves, with larger and newer stations offering a huge range of restaurants for every appetite and budget, and shops ranging from high-quality handmade artisanal local goods to Japanese malls to 100-yen stores. Convenience stores and pharmacies are also often on hand.

Do look out for special local snacks in the omiyage souvenir shops (these are intended for Japanese travelers to take back to friends and colleagues as presents) and for ekiben,  local specialty boxed bentō  lunches.

A single-track train line heading towards the iconic shape of Mount Fuji

Travel short distances with a prepaid travel card

Coming from overseas, traveling short distances on Japanese railways often feels very inexpensive, while traveling longer distances without a rail pass can feel more costly. Let’s start with shorter distances.

Taking subways and urban rail is simple if you get an IC card – one of the many prepaid stored-value contactless cards – that works in a similar way to Oyster in London or Clipper in San Francisco: just tap on and tap off. Most rail operators across Japan will sell you their version, which are almost all interchangeable when it comes to loading and spending them — you can use an ICOCA card from the Osaka region in Tokyo , or a Pasmo from Tokyo in Sapporo . You can also use iPhones to get a virtual Suica card (JR East's version of a prepaid card) via the Wallet app and load it with money using Apple Pay. If you're using an international Visa card, be aware that JR East has had issues processing those payments in the past, so you may need to use a different credit card.

A hand holds up a Japan Rail Pass in front of the rounded nose of a bullet train at a station

Travel long distances with the JR Pass

Over longer distances, the Japan Rail Pass (¥50,000 or about US$335 for seven days – less than US$50 a day!) is generally a good deal if you are planning anything more than simply Tokyo–Kyoto–Hiroshima–Tokyo, and the flexibility it gives you to take an earlier or later train is an added bonus.

You can either buy the ticket online or from an overseas travel agent. Note that you don’t actually buy the pass itself from overseas — you buy a voucher called an Exchange Order, which you then  exchange at a major station (including all international airports) for the pass itself. 

If you don’t have a pass, tickets cost the same no matter what time of day you travel, where you book, or how busy it will be — it’s not like airline tickets where that can change wildly. Most overseas travelers still use paper tickets for everything outside urban travel.

Long-distance travel fares are based on two elements:

  • Ticket price, essentially the distance you travel
  • Whether you want to reserve a seat or not, and in which class, if that’s available: Limited Express and Shinkansen trains will offer non-reserved seat tickets, a reserved seat in standard class, a reserved seat in the Green Car business class, or in some regions a reserved seat in Gran Class (first class).

Tickets can be bought at stations or at JR Travel Service Centers

Use Google Maps or the  Japan Transit Planner from Jorudan to find fares, or for JR trains visit your local JR station (look for the “green window” ticket booking office or a JR Travel Service Center), where you can also reserve a seat. At major airports and in Tokyo, you can expect some basic train-related English to be spoken by "green window" ticket agents. JR Travel Service Center staff tend to be more multilingual. Elsewhere, if you speak no Japanese you may well get lucky with someone who speaks English, and you can always lean on your phone's translation apps. Write down (on a printout or even just on your phone's notes app) the dates, times, destinations and details of the train you want, for example: "12 April, Tokyo–Osaka, 12:00, window seat, Mt Fuji side please."

Unless you’re visiting during a major Japanese holiday or want to take a specific Joyful Train, there’s little need to book before arriving in Japan. You can in some cases book online, but it’s pretty complicated and I wouldn’t recommend it to first-time visitors. If you’re confused and want English-speaking advice, head to  one of the stations that specializes in Japan Rail Passes . Only a few trains outside the JR network allow prebooking.

Three different trains cross bridges near each other in a city

There are many rail passes to choose from

Japan has a wide variety of rail passes available to overseas visitors, from the JR Pass valid across the JR network (with a few exceptions like the very fastest trains west of Tokyo) to regional and commuter passes.

The most useful is the  Japan Rail Pass in its six variants: 7/14/21 days and standard car or Green Car business-class versions. This is probably what you should get your first time in Japan if traveling outside Tokyo.

Adventurous travelers and long-term visitors, or anyone wanting to go deep in a particular region, could also consider:

  • The  various regional passes from JR East , including the very useful  Hokuriku Arch Pass for traveling the slower way between Tokyo and Osaka via Kyoto and Kanazawa
  • The many  JR West Passes , including the  All Area Pass for most of western Honshu
  • The  four JR Kyushu passes
  • The  three JR Hokkaido passes  
  • The  JR Shikoku ALL SHIKOKU pass

You’ll usually need to be visiting with the “temporary visitor” stamp in your passport, and there may be a small discount (a couple of thousand yen or US$5–10) for buying it online or outside Japan. Otherwise, check out the details online or visit a large station, including those at airports: the bigger, the better, and the more likely to have English-speaking assistance.

Train etiquette means not disturbing fellow travelers

Japanese urban trains can be famously crowded during rush-hour, but by and large even Tokyo is no worse than any major global city.

Even if crowded, the etiquette on a Japanese train is to be as quiet as possible and disturb others as little as possible: headphones on quiet, very little chatting, backpack on your front, give up your seat to anyone who needs it more than you.

There is something of a stereotype of loutish tourists yapping away to their traveling companions on long-distance trains. Try not to contribute to it. Separate your trash according to the recycling bins, and always leave the seat as clean and tidy as you found it.

Eating and drinking is fine (even encouraged!) on longer distance trains. General rule: if the seats are subway-style along the sides of the car facing inwards then don’t, but feel free if the seats are airline-style facing forwards. If in doubt, follow the lead of the nearest senior Japanese person.

A beautifully presented box of food with each element separated into its own square

On-board facilities vary depending on the service

With the exception of the Joyful Train tourist excursion services, Japanese trains don’t have buffet cars any more, although you can see what they used to look like at several of Japan’s excellent railway museums. A shrinking number of trains still have a trolley service offering snacks, sometimes bentō  and a variety of drinks.

Good news, though: any station smaller than the tiniest rural halt will have a convenience store inside or nearby, which will offer bentō , hot meals, snacks, drinks and essentials. Many larger stations have restaurant complexes, while some smaller ones will have delightful smaller options like a soba or ramen shop.

Long-distance trains will usually have toilet facilities, with newer ones (including all shinkansen and some Limited Expresses) having excellent facilities for disabled passengers, people with reduced mobility and often ostomy facilities too.

Shinkansen and newer Limited Expresses offer two-pin US-style 110V charging ports, while wi-fi is also increasingly available and easy to use.

Most Japanese trains are not set up for luggage bigger than a small carry-on — and “small” here does not include a US-sized rollaboard or anything like a bicycle. On some trains you have to pre-reserve anything bigger. Take advantage of the nationwide luggage shipping services like Yamato  – known as Kuroneko Yamato for its black (kuro) cat (neko) logo – that ships larger bags for US$10–20.

These are the best seats for great views

Always take a window seat, whether you’re gazing out on Japan’s sprawling megalopolises from an urban train, watching the country fly by at 320km/h (199mph) from a shinkansen, or enjoying picturesque views from a slow rural train.

On the shinkansen, if you want the best mountain views — including the iconic Mt Fuji between Tokyo and Shizuoka — select a window E seat in standard class and a D seat in the Green Car.

Limited Expresses are wonderful for countryside views, with the  Hida from Nagoya to Toyama through the Japanese Alps and the Inaho from Niigata to Akita just two great examples.

Ask for help when navigating busy city networks

Urban trains, commuter rail and subways may have a set of complicated and confusing names with different stopping patterns, especially during rush hour, but this is no worse than figuring out what a “Watford Semi-Fast” is on London’s Tube or how skip-stop works on the subway in New York. As a visitor, just ask station staff or, in a pinch, a fellow passenger — and be prepared to get on the wrong train with a confident smile and a sense of affable adventure.

The majority of trains are wheelchair accessible

A significant majority of intercity, urban rail and subway stations in most major cities (80–90% in Tokyo  according to official numbers ) are accessible for wheelchair users, with elevators, stair-climber lifts, and ramps widespread. 

Older stations, such as the main Tokyo Station, may be complex and accessible only from certain entrances. Tactile strips to assist blind people or those with reduced visual acuity are almost everywhere. 

Accessible Japan is an excellent resource for information, while the very detailed  For Safe and Convenient Accessibility website offers route and station search as well as  contact details for further assistance. Station staff are keen to help wherever they can.

Many trains offer wheelchair positions, level boarding, with ramps available if you need them. Urban rail and subways have priority seating, and Japan developed the  Help Mark badge system for people with invisible disabilities to easily signal their needs. The badge is  free from a number of locations in Tokyo , under US$10 from Amazon Japan (consider having it delivered to your first night hotel), or you can DIY your own before leaving home.

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Have a serene stay along the beach.

Regent Santa Monica Beach opens this summer on a prized stretch of Santa Monica sand, bringing with it a restaurant from heralded chef Michael Mina, a café and boutique from celebrity/entrepreneur Ayesha Curry, a 10,000-square-foot Guerlain Wellness Spa, an oceanfront pool deck and beach butler service.

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Take a seat in the airy lobby.

Taking over the former Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel, the more than $150 million project channels Beverly Hills glamour and beachfront serenity with designs from AvroKO (whose work includes The Jay Hotel in San Francisco and 1 Hotel Central Park in New York) and Wimberly Interiors (which did Rosewood Baha Mar in the Bahamas and Waldorf Astoria Lusail Doha ). Expect an airy, bathed-in-white lobby and rooms infused with subdued colors like cream and blue.

The accommodations — 24 suites and 143 guest rooms — will start at 720 square feet. Indulgent bathrooms will feature soaking tubs, rainfall showers, bidets and double vanities. Gaze out over the ocean from the 2,180-square-foot, two-story Atrium Suites on the second and third floors, or sprawl out in the largest room, the eighth-floor Santa Monica Presidential Suite, which will have a game room, a living room and four Juliet balconies.

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Stay in one of the suites.

Foodies will flock to the Santa Monica hotel to dine at Mediterranean-focused Orla, a restaurant that chef Mina recently debuted in Las Vegas. “Orla is an incredibly personal concept for me, taking inspiration from my childhood,” said Mina, known for spots like Forbes Travel Guide Four-Stars Michael Mina in Las Vegas and Bourbon Steak in Orange County. “The earthiness of za’atar, the tang of citrus and the intricate layers of a perfectly cooked piece of fish or charcoal-grilled meat all take me back to the captivating flavors I grew up with and enjoyed around the table with my family. With oceanfront views and the vibrant energy of the restaurant, guests will instantly be transported to the Mediterranean.”

Rooms have soft hues.

Curry, who collaborated with Mina on his upscale barbecue chain International Smoke, will open an outpost of her Oakland lifestyle boutique, Sweet July, in the L.A. hotel. The sage-hued Santa Monica shop/café will highlight bespoke products from Black- and women-owned brands and a menu inspired by Curry’s Jamaica roots alongside staples like Sweet July signature coffee, tea, pastries and desserts.

“I am so excited to expand our Sweet July experience to the beaches of Santa Monica with Regent,” Curry said. “We’ve curated a very special menu celebrating my Jamaican roots, and I look forward to bringing it to Santa Monica and the iconic Regent brand.”

Enjoy Mediterranean fare at Orla.

Younes Atallah, the resort’s general manager, said Regent Santa Monica Beach will bring a very different experience to the area. “With a commitment to distinguished, bespoke service alongside an alluring oceanfront location, we are eager to share this incredibly special property with the world and welcome guests to indulge in a modern evolution of traditional luxury,” Atalla said.

In its earlier iteration, the Regent brand introduced hospitality innovations like island reception desks, private pool villas and sunken bathtubs. IHG’s newly relaunched version is distinguishing itself with “personal havens” —customized, sleekly designed spaces throughout the properties that encourage relaxing moments. For example, at Regent’s Hong Kong hotel, you can peer out from its tranquil rooms at Victoria Harbour from the deep soaking tub or the long windowfront banquette, and at the Phu Quoc resort, you have the serene poolside cabanas with daybeds nestled amid the palms.

Shop an eat at Sweet July.

Other Regent hallmarks include “with compliments,” a service that showers you with generous amenities (like a free minibar) and helpful perks (free laundry and pressing); the Taste Studio, an interactive, multi-sensory dining experience featuring collaborations between hotel chefs and creatives from the worlds of art, music, design and fashion; and experience agents, who curate your stay based on your preferences.

In the next five years, Regent plans to open hotels in Bali; Jeddah, Saudi Arabia; Kuala Lumpur; Kyoto; Sanya, China; Shenzhen, China; and Jakarta, Indonesia.

Jennifer Kester

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    These fast guides to our favourite cities in the world reveal where our team head to for a cosy dinner, a reviving run, a dose of culture and some retail hits too. Regularly updated and with a seasonal serving of recommendations, the list of cities will expand at pace in the coming weeks. And visit the Monocle online shop for our hard-backed travel companions too.